6 minute read
Luang Namtha Where Adventure get a Flavorful Twist!
Luang Namtha Where Adventure Gets a Flavorful Twist!
Words and Images by Mick Shippen
For a few days of soft adventure, bucolic landscapes, colorful ethnic groups, and tasty regional cuisine, Luang Namtha is hard to beat. Begin your stay in town at the small but excellent local museum where you can see an exquisite collection of indigenous clothing worn by the different ethnic groups that live in the area, along with detailed information about their origins and cultural traditions. The insight gleaned here will prove invaluable as you embark on the next part of your adventure, the Luang Namtha Valley Route, a ‘must do’ self-guided tour that can be explored by bicycle or scooter (available for hire from a shop directly opposite the main entrance of the night market). your adventure, the Luang Namtha Valley Route, a ‘must do’ self-guided tour that can be explored by bicycle or scooter (available for hire from a shop directly opposite the main entrance of the night market).
The 35-kilometer route meanders its way through scenic countryside and villages. Be sure to stop at the large information boards in each village that provide details about the people who live there and what can be discovered, from weaving to whiskey making. The suggested time for the route is three to four hours, but you could easily spend the whole day exploring (or do half of it one day and complete it the following day). Highlights include Nam Dee village where Lanten women, their hands stained blue from indigo dye, sit in the shade spinning cotton and sewing. The village also includes a waterfall. A huge mountainous area around it is currently being developed which will include a resort, restaurant, campsites, walking trails, cycle tracks, and much more. Temple highlights along the Luang Namtha Valley Route include Poum Pouk near Nam Ngaen village (accessible by road or a steep
flight of steps) with its ruined stupa that was toppled by an American bomb in 1966, old Vieng Neua temple with its naive and colorful wall paintings, and Luang Namtha stupa which crowns the hill in the town center.
coction is as a ragout with attitude. Also look out for the less familiar khao laeng feun, a set boiled rice flour paste, cut into chunks and served in a cool, refreshing light soup flavored with hibiscus and tamarind and then spiced up by the diner with a spoonful of a jeo or paste made from chili, soybeans, and ginger. If you are cycling the Luang Namtha route, take a pit stop at the Tai Daeng village of Nam Ngaen where you will also find freshly made khao laeng feun and the noodle version for sale outside a small village shop.
Luang Namtha is an excellent destination for lovers of regional cuisines. Wander around the fresh market in the early morning or late afternoon and you will see many of the seasonal ingredients locals love. At this time of year, there is an abundance of wai, a type of edible rattan that is foraged from nearby forests. Covered in ferocious spines, it has to be deftly peeled with a machete to reveal the edible tender heart within. The market is also one of the best places to enjoy the north’s most famous noodle soup, khao soi. If you are familiar with the dish of the same name found in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, which is a rich, curried, coconut milk soup with chicken and egg noodles, this dish will surprise you as it bears no similarity. Lao khao soi (which literally translates as ‘cut rice’) is a dish of fresh rice noodles served in a light bone broth. The noodles are topped with a thick sauce known as naa khao soi made with aged, fermented soybeans, pork, and tomatoes. The best way to describe this deeply savory, meaty, and salty con-
Food adventures can continue in the late afternoon at the newly revamped night market (from 4 p.m. until late). Here, vendors sell homecooked food displayed in small portions to take away. There’s a seating area in the market so you can try whatever tempts you, such as wai and nor wan, a variety of bamboo that is also in season now.
For dinner, head to Sok Xai restaurant where cook and owner, Mae Ouan, offers arguably the best food in town from a varied menu. Recommended dishes include tom jeo paa, fish and eggplant stew, and an exemplary aw lam moo, northern pork and vegetable stew. You can also ask her what seasonal vegetable dishes are available. Aim to arrive about 5:30 p.m. and enjoy the lovely scenic sunset river view with a chilled Beerlao and a side order of pork ribs with ginger, garlic, and lime leaves. Sok Xai restaurant (tel: 020 52528754 and 02022131456) is located a couple of kilometers north of the town center on the road to Meuang Sing. In town (behind the night market), Lai’s Place offers a standard Lao menu with a handful of interesting regional specialties (tel: 020 29 656 599).
There are several good guesthouses in town, including comfortable standard offerings at the well-run Thoulasith (086 212166), and Zuela, (086 2120580), both conveniently located in the center of town. For more adventurous travelers, many homestay options are available around Luang Namtha. These focus on the ethnic diversity of the area. You can stay with Lao Yuan families at Vieng Neua, Lanten at Nam Dee, and Kamu at Nalan. Homestays provide insight into the colorful and fascinating daily life of ethnic groups and can typically include a range of activities such as crafts such as dyeing and weaving, cooking, a baci ceremony, trekking, and kayaking. They can be booked through local tour operators.
For further information on homestays and a downloadable map of the Luang Namtha Valley Route, visit luangnamthatourism.org
MORE INFO
For more information or to make a reservation, contact Thee at fb.com/sunakhene or +856 30 506 9376
GETTING THERE
Lao Skyway has frequent flights from Vientiane to Luang Prabang
