Volume 33, No.21
BY: Dan Castro, Photographer, BPS Culinary As the holidays are often the season of giving, many forget that it should be celebrated on a daily basis. For this reason, Slow Food’s collaboration with the Hudson Valley’s Farm-to-School program gives younger audiences an awareness and new love for food. This has been brought to life by Slow Food’s, Matt Sporer and Sarah Garcia. They are presenting this gift of joy and nutrition to the students of Haldane Elementary School in Cold Spring, New York. Farm-to-School programs are nothing new these days. The food revolution in today’s school lunch programs - whether it is elementary or high school, is popular due to the United States’ countrywide obesity problem. To spark this revolution, prominent figures such as Jamie Oliver and First Lady Michelle Obama push this movement forward, towards healthier meals for these students with programs such as Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution television show and Michelle Obama’s establishment of a vegetable garden at the White House. Despite the popularity of these Farm-to-School programs, which can lead to possible boredom, the enthusiasm remains the same. Sporer and Garcia, President and Vice-President of Slow Food at the CIA respectively, consistently work with a kitchen with a small staff and little equipment. Both Sporer
and Garcia work tirelessly with the Haldane’s small kitchen staff of two, and often lacking equipment in that Haldane Elementary’s kitchen only has basic amenities in it such as: a stove, table, knives and a can opener for the “number 10” cans the vegetables come in. As these conditions can drain one’s motivation due to the lack of staff training and sufficient equipment, Sporer and Garcia tackle these challenges enthusiastically by putting their CIA training to use. They train the kitchen staff to make more refined and colorful dishes using fresh vegetables from the farm instead of using canned produce. Despite the initial cynicism from the school’s kitchen staff, Sporer and Garcia motivate them to believe that these struggles will blossom into something positive. After several weeks, as Haldane’s students realize that what they are planting in farms, what children their age normally find unappetizing suddenly become more palatable to them. As the children detach themselves from their food aversions, they become motivation for the kitchen staff to continue their production of dishes that children would love. Not only were Sporer and Garcia were undermanned with mentoring the children, but they also only had several teachers to work with. This became a challenge when dealing with the children. They have such great enthusiasm and learning about food can be a challenging task, as it requires boundless energy. Sporer and Garcia have many responsibilities because of the Culinary Michelle Obama showing her Slow Food support Institute’s demanding Photo: slashfood.com curriculum, so they
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needed the extra help. They have a consistent gameplan in place for getting these children to like the food that they are harvesting in their own school farms. One of these plans that has seemed to help is the idea of renaming and rebranding dishes in a way that children like. For instance, “Squashalicious” is a name for a squash risotto that Sporer came up with and let the students market to themselves by naming it. Sporer and Garcia’s blueprint is as follows: as long as food is edible, colorful, and the students have involvement in it, the food will be better received. Their success in this particular dish shows that this blueprint is working and is a good one to follow for prospective projects down the road. Sporer and Garcia’s enthusiasm warrants them superstar status among Haldane’s student population. Sporer recalls that when he and Garcia were packing up, some kids came to them and asked for their autographs more than once on different objects. This superstardom among a small crowd is motivation for both of them much like it was for the cafeteria ladies who started believing in cooking better food for these students once they saw results. As many say, we reap what we sow. As good food is bountiful these days, it is what is getting reaped at Haldane’s student farms. It is truly the gift that keeps on giving.
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LA PAPILLOTE
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From the Editor’s Desk
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
January 18, 2013
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jocelynn M. Neri
LAYOUT EDITOR
Sydney Estrada
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Sue Haug
CONTRIBUTORS Chef Freddy Brash Dan Castro Eric Jenkins Diane Lam Shelly Loveland Robert Flowers
Jeremy Salamon Christinia Esposito Stephanie Kirkland Nick Wasicek Jonathan Peitzman Blayre Miller
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Being the Editor-in-Chief of La Papillote is a part of my life that I will never forget. I have spent the better part of a year with this paper: perfecting and finessing each and every article, networking with the most amazing culinary heavyweights in this industry and learning at every event that I have covered. My time at this newspaper’s helm has been an invaluable experience. I have made so many friends, copious connections, and learned a lot about managing that I will be able to use during my career. Every detail, falter, blunder, triumph and crusade that I have experienced will forever leave a lasting imprint on me. I hope you all have enjoyed reading through my tenure here as much as I have enjoyed sharing the good word with you. As I near my graduation here at CIA, I am setting my sights high, whilst also remembering how much I will miss my time at this fine school. I hope you all will enjoy my final issue; it is filled with all my favorite things. From the latest in Slow Food nation to sustainable farming, this issue is packed with what is currently going on right here in the Hudson Valley. My writers have put their sustainability foot forward and I think you may learn a thing or two about this beautiful area because of it. I would like to sincerely thank Dean Whalen, Eric Howard, Sue Haug, Sydney Estrada, Alicia Yandell, Jake Hauss, Dan Castro, Giulianna Galiano, Blayre Miller and my esteemed staff of writers. Without you all, this paper would not be possible. You are the driving force behind this newspaper and because of you, I am able to accomplish as much as I do on a daily basis. I would also like to personally thank my professors, family and friends for all of your advice, help and most of all patience. Thank you for what you have done for me. Readers, get ready for a new chapter of this historic newspaper. As I introduce Stephanie Kirkland to the staff, I would like to wish her the best of luck. She has a lot of motivation and determination and I cannot wait to see what she has in store for you.
With love & fire,
As I write on my dupe pad, decked in full service uniform, I glance across the Alforno bar of Caterina de Medici, to Giulianna Galiano, former Editor-in-Chief, and cannot help but think about how this progression of events has come full circle. From starting to write with La Papillote, to working side by side in Alforno for my contemporary dining class, to actually building a friendship outside of the classroom or paper. And to Jocelynn Neri, for her unwavering enthusiasm and forward thinking ideas for La Papillote. A thank you to you both for showing me everything I know about how to run La Papillote Newspaper to the best of my ability. I hope to make you proud. As always, stay hungry. Best, Stephanie Kirkland
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Jocelynn M. Neri, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net
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LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Sydney Estrada (Layout Editor)
SE853582@mycia. net
Alicia Yandell (Copy Editor)
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Jake Hauss (Copy Editor) JH720941@ mycia.net
Dan Castro (Photographer)
daniel.castro210@ gmail.com
January 18, 2013
During the holiday break my wife, Chuan, went back to Beijing, so I stayed here alone and took care of our cat, Mimi, and the house this year. One might think that a cat is pretty simple to take care of, but not ours! She is very finicky about food; give her salmon and she wants trout, give her trout and she wants crab. It became such a dilemma. One day, I went to the store and saw some sushi grade tuna for $20.00 a pound and I brewed up an idea to feed her something different. I tried feeding the tuna to her and she went wild. All of a sudden, when I come home from school, she sits really properly at the door for me without crying. Even her litter pan is pretty manageable now. I learned over break that even cats value good quality food. Though, now I might be in trouble because my wife is returning from Beijing and is not aware of Mimi’s new diet. As I brought Chuan to the airport 2 weeks prior, all my cooking friends knew that when the
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cat is away the mice will play. We decided to gather together, in fellowship, to cook. Three really good friends of mine that I cooked with in New York many years ago came to visit. What you will learn, Chefs of the Future, is that when you form a bond in the kitchen with people you have to nourish the friendship it’s like watering a garden. It is very hard to connect with everyone, but there is a handful and we still keep in touch! We made a chicken stir fry with shitake, braised tilapia with star anise and Chinese vinegar, sweet and sour eggplant, and cabbage with chilies. Of course, we cooked with Asian flavors because we were gathered at my house. We ate all these dishes and I could not believe it! Many stories came out that night about the old times and we had quite a few laughs. We all have taken different avenues in the culinary world; I came back to teach at my alma mater, Sylvan still works as a pastry chef in Saybrook CT, and my
BY: Chef Freddy Brash, Culinary Arts Instructor good friend Jonathan runs his own business as a Caterer. My friend Raj just moved to New York after spending 20 years cooking in LA. So Chefs, it starts with your classmates that you keep in touch with, but that progresses to cooks or pastry chefs that you work with. It all comes down to friendship and fellowship that we need to cherish. After all, we are in the hospitality business.
Cooks Embrace Photo provided by: Chef Brash
BY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary Being an LA native hockey fan, there is no greater joy than going into the season defending our Stanley Cup victory. The Los Angeles Kings won their first Stanley Cup during the 2011-2012 season. With great pride, the title has been much talked about in Los Angeles and the arrival of the new season was the talk of the town. To our dismay, the league entered a lock-out so there was about a three-month standstill within the sport. The problem was obvious; hockey was getting popular so players and owners alike wanted more money. The battle went on to where we are today— so they are starting the season mid-January. Excitement is buzzing and local bars are creating their game specials. As a school covering different spectrums of this country, I am sure that we can all relate to some friendly sport rivalry. Whether you are a regional New York Rangers Fan or a Phoenix Coyote, the stakes are high and the love for the sport is alive. Don’t know where to go to view the games? Check out our favorite local spots and their specials: Darby’s O’Gills, the local favorite for CIA students, offers sixteen different HD Televisions, most of which will display the NHL hockey games
every Friday and Saturday, as long as they are on the primetime networks. They offer a boasting happy hour from 3-7 PM. When I spoke with General Manager Jamie Gervasi, he offers an incentive for only CIA students. Show your Student ID any time of the day, seven days out of the week and it will be $1 off beers, drinks and shots! “We like to take care of our CIA students!” GM Jamie Gervasi said. The Nuddy Bar and Grill is another great Sports Bar that showcases an impressive array of TVs in every corner. Guests rave about the Coffee Rubbed Steak and their constantly rotating beers on tap. Shadows on the Hudson is what they call “a 3 star restaurant meets sports bar.” If you are looking for more of an event atmosphere, this is the place for you. Enjoy a vast menu selection from Sweet Potato Fries to Buffalo Calamari. It doesn’t matter if you don’t have a car or are underage, as most of these sports bars are walking distance and allow underage patrons during certain hours. The puck drop will be a memorable occasion to share over some wings and brews. I’ll see you during the playoffs!
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The Chickens
There isn’t a better feeling then when you set a goal for something that no one really thinks is feasible and are able to proove them wrong. Especially, when this involves raising chickens in the middle of a place like Poughkeepsie. Doing such a thing involves many economic and logistical problems, such as where to house them, how to keep them warm, and how to protect your chickens from pesky foxes; even in the middle of a small city. When all comes to fruition though- after you’ve eaten the best eggs that could be produced, and even participated in the slaughter of two animals you’ve raised from hatchlings- you can taste the love and affection that has been put into the lovely birds. Recently, I was invited to participate in a
BY: Nick Wasicek, BPS Culinary, SACE President chicken slaughter by a friend of mine. You may have have a responsibility as culinarians to educate and heard a buzz in the past about the attempt of getting inform those who are unaware of the differences in chickens on campus to use as not only a method of certain companies’ practices. This event wasn’t just a producing eggs, but also as a learning tool. Here at meal I will remember forever, but also a lesson that I the CIA, being local, sustainable and knowing where will pass on to any and all who will listen. Very few your food comes from is always at the center of people have changed the world by themselves, but conversation. We decided better way to learn these anyone can lay the groundwork with something as things than to do it ourselves? I had the honor of simple as an idea and use it to further educate others watching these birds grow into two gorgeous hens, so that they too will spread the word. as well as being there for the slaughter and feast that ensued after. The French have been preparing Coq Au Vin for years and I’ve had it several times before, but considering that the hens meat was to tough for a regular sauté, we decided on this classical technique to enjoy the fruit of our labor. It was arguably one of the best meals of my life. It wasn’t because of the taste or the atmosphere of the meal; it was because I knew what went into getting them on my plate. Now, I am not saying that everyone should go out and purchase chickens and build a coup just to satisfy the gods of locavorism, but you get an idea of what these animals go through to get from the proverbial farm to the table your eating at. These animals were treated like chicken royalty; looked and cared after by a man who wants to change the way people at the CIA think about where there food comes from. Though it was an experimental, out of school project, it was an amazing learning experience. This knowledge not only makes one a better cook or chef, but can be passed on to people and help educate those who do not know how the The Chicken Herders: Zev Glesta and Nick Wasicek chickens in industrial facilities are really treated. We Photos Provided by: Nick Wasicek
BY: Blayre Miller, BPS Graduate, Flouretta Sweet You will blink, and it will be over. Every practical, every costing homework assignment, every struggle to get through piping homework or a knife skills tray, every final, group project, written paper. You might not see it now, but nobody ever does right when they are in the thick of things. Instead, it will creep up on you in those few weeks right after everything settles, and there you are; on your couch at home wondering where the time went. College is a wild and beautiful adventure. I was ready for the CIA. I spent a lot of my free time during my senior year of high school finding out everything I could about the school I was so excited to attend. I wore my CIA sweatshirt to school every week, and couldn’t wait to tell anybody who asked about the World’s Premier Culinary College. When it came time to actually step foot in Hyde Park in 2009, I was ecstatic, and threw myself into college life as much as a freshman could. Looking back on it all, there’s nothing I would change. I graduated from the CIA’s bachelor’s program fairly recently, on October 18th, 2012. When EIC Jocelynn asked me to write a piece for her last issue, I was very eager to share with all of you what it’s like to graduate from the CIA, how you will feel, and how to deal with it. It’s an emotional rollercoaster, but isn’t that how life works? After a month or so of solid job searching prior to graduation, I secured a job as a bakery supervisor at a Hilton Hotel, and decided to stay home for a year in order to save money and build up my cake business, Flouretta Sweet. Although this choice is not for everyone, my goal was to find a job that would still be beneficial to me and also allow me to save the money I needed to head off into the World after my year was up. I have since decided to leave the Hilton in search for a different type of job, but my three months there have already taught me an immense amount about life in the Culinary industry.
No matter where you are in the program, you absolutely need to soak up every possible thing that the Culinary can offer you, and most importantly learn from the people around you. You probably won’t be surrounded by a more talented group of chefs ever again in your life, and by chefs I don’t just mean your Chef Instructor, but also your classmates! Not everyone in the industry really has a passion for food like the people you interact with at school. I can’t tell you the amount of times I was truly proud of my degree and the skills that I honed at the CIA. This is not to say that you should be smug when you graduate, but you need to know that there are so many little things that are ingrained in us at the CIA that other schools don’t have time to teach in their 4-month or 6-month crash course programs. Even the simple things; like keeping your station clean, or giving a guest a genuine smile, show employers that you care about the littlest details, and that CIA grads are the best at that kind of work. I’ve heard a lot of students say that they are sick of school, or that they don’t want to go back after break or the end of a weekend, and I am guilty of this very thing. Believe me though; you will surely miss it once it’s gone! If you are nearing the end of your time here at the CIA, savor every second. Take your time finding the job that is really right for you, and if you find
that it doesn’t fit, you still have so much time to get it right and build your career. Make your alma mater proud and stay connected with your classmates and chefs. Know that you made the right decision with your future by starting your food adventures here. There’s nowhere to go but up! I wish you all the best of luck, and a successful career full of good food and good friends. Stay hungry and curious, Blayre
Doug Phillips Graduating with his BPS Photo Credit: The Culinary Institute of America
January 18,2013
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BY: Jocelynn Neri, Editor-In-Chief, BPS Culinary When you are having caffeine craving, sometimes the classic espresso shot or the casual cup of coffee just isn’t good enough. In the 1700’s, Italians created a new pick-me-up to fill this need; Bicerin. This very historic beverage is believed to have been created in Turin. A beverage used to energize the likes of all, this drink is comprised of carbohydrates and caffeine; both necessities of the Italian diet. This traditional winter beverage of Turin is the classic drink to have when socializing with friends for a cup. Mauro Sessarego, the Maitre d’ Instructor at Apple Pie Bakery, grew up close buy and made many a trip to the area. Caffé al Bicerin was a place his mother and he would frequent, “You could smell the chocolate throughout the town. My mother would walk me through the shopping centers. When we shopped, it was very cold. She said we should go for a treat and so we went to this fancy store. I wasn’t expecting to have such a delicious drink. We went into this beautiful art deco bar, everyone was dressed up inside; it is a very famous and classic place to be in Turin.” Mauro and his mother would warm up and re-energize before continuing to brave the shopping centers. Opened in 1763, Caffé al Bicerin is the place to go in Italy. “Now like then,” they’re product has not changed since opening. Previously, it was an aristocratic beverage, but eventually all of Turin caught on to this drink. Nobility eventually deemed the drink socially acceptable for all to drink so it became a novelty amongst all social standings. Caffé al Bicerin became a democratic public locale because of this new acceptance. One of the first of it’s kind. Espresso was the norm, drank by all of Italy, but in the north, where it was cold, they drank hot chocolate as well.
This hot drink was created because of that. It was a drink that warmed the coachmen in their travels; carting ladies from store to store. It was accepted and written about. This eventually created a large hype around the small shop in Turin. Soon, Caffé al Bicerin became world renown. This shop created a new sense of refinement and was one of the first locales to be deemed socially acceptable for women to attend and one of the few places where women could be seen in public. It was right near the church so it became a place of meeting for the women townsfolk to meet and converse. It was the place of choice for women to go after receiving communion at the nearby church. Why is this drink so revered? The bitter of the espresso, sweetness of the chocolate and the coolness of the cream combine in one sip. It is an intense awakening to the palette. All gets blended together, but you get the feel of each individual taste as well;
Bicerin in Turin Photo: richardtulloch.wordpress
including the slight sense of vanilla in the cream. Last year, Mauro Sessarego decided to participate in the annual Christmas party by bringing this memorable drink to his colleagues. While helping at this event, I saw the joy that this concoction brought to all. With every sip, their smiles grew wider. He wanted to do something that would be a contribution to the party that was a part of his history and his memory, while also being a hot beverage that would go well with all of the beautiful desserts that were showcased. It went over exceptionally well and they asked this year to do it again. He used a vessel that was designed to keep the hot chocolate stirred and constantly made Bicerin throughout the party; about 400 at least! To share the memory and contribution with the CIA family was well worth the time and effort that he put into this year at the Christmas party. Here at CIA, it was refreshing to have a new pairing. Usually, there are cocktails or wine as the beverage of choice, but like in the history of the Bicerin, Mauro was able to change that by bringing into light this hot beverage once again. It is a great alternative to hot chocolate or coffee because it combines these two together and is a perfect compliment to many holiday sweets.
The ancient shop in Turin Photo: flikr/massim.tk
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Authentic Tennessee Moonshine Photo Provided By: crownwineandspirits.com
What does it take to make something hip, sexy, and now when its reputation has historically been a negative one? If we can learn anything from the teenaged Cinderella movies where all you had to do was take off the girl’s glasses, take her hair out of the pony-tail and she was a completely new person. It seems that moonshine has been going through a similar transformation, which has led to a quick growth in new products and new cocktails in hipper bars. Moonshine, by definition, is any liquor made in an unlicensed distillery. Its criminal history behind its name is perhaps what makes the drink seem inherently cool because it was produced, distributed, sold, and consumed in secret. The product under the same name sold in state stores has kept the
name because of its mystique. Douglas Miller, class of ’89, also adds that the hooch has such a deep seated place in American history and lore that its name elicits a reaction that distilled rye-whiskey or corn-whiskey cannot. Mr. Miller also pointed out the benefits to both the government and producers. The government gets payment immediately from the product as it is not aged. The producer uses inexpensive ingredients, again, that are immediately sold after distillation creating a large profit margin. The finished product should be clear and taste smooth, buttery if made from corn, which with its high alcohol content can make for a whoa-Nelly drink. The companies producing moonshine are all, for the most part, very small distilleries that have marketed their products using a smart blend of the drinks “hillbilly” roots and new flavors and infusions that makes it have a certain hipster irony and legitimate goodness that appeals to a wide audience. Most brands package their “hooch” in mason jars, which is what most moonshine was delivered in the years following World War II when metal containers were difficult to obtain. There are a variety of flavored options to be enjoyed. Midnight Moon, a company based out of Piedmont North Carolina, produces in small batches using only natural ingredients and has, in addition to their neutral moonshine, varieties with real fruit in the jar including blackberry, blueberry, cherry, cranberry, strawberry, and apple pie (I am willing to bet there is not a piece of apple pie in the jar though). I have had their cranberry moonshine and can say that it is a tough drink to consume by itself, but I can see definite potential in the mixing of drinks. Thankfully their website, juniorsmidnightmoon. com, includes a recipe page that includes mixed drinks, martinis, shots, food, Modern Moonshine recipes by season, and recipes Photo:bourbonbuzz.com using each of the flavored moonshines. Ole Smoky
BY: Jonathan Peitzman, AOS Culinary Tennessee Moonshine is another brand packaged in mason jars that comes a variety of flavors including their original, white lightning, cherry, apple pie, peach, and blackberry. If you are willing to go to the actual distillery you can obtain their blueberry, grape, hunch punch, lemon drop, pink lemonade, and strawberry which are only available when the ingredients are in season. Olesmokymoonshine.com, their website offers a history of moonshine as well as a small selection of drink recipes. Some other brands that were recommended are Buffalo Trace, Tuthilltown, and Delaware Pheonix Moonshine has made a leap into television as well with the new program Moonshiners on
A Moonshine Still Photo Provided By: winetrailtraveller.com
the Discovery Channel. From the start this show delivers a sense of high-tension playing off the relationship between law enforcement, namely the Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC) and a variety of moonshiners spread across the south. The characters in this show are chosen for their resemblance to the stereotypical ‘shiner who is living in the woods, some missing teeth, often sounding pretty inebriated, and donning a thick accent that has the Discovery Channel using subtitles throughout most of the show. I have only seen a portion of one episode, but the characters seem just crazy enough that it may make for entertaining television. The moonshine’s Cinderella may strive to keep a good bit of its backwoods past but it has created some new and appealing products that give this writer the impression it is here to stay. So go out and grab a mason jar of your favorite flavor, try a few recipes, and most importantly drink at a leisurely pace because if I learned anything from Discovery’s Moonshiners it is that the drink can knock the teeth right out of your head.
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It seems Foie Gras goes through more makeovers thanmost celebrities. Over the century, it has been loved one year, hated the other; cooked one way, seared another. It is amazing what controversy and glory this livered trend has caused and quite frankly: many are just crazy about it! Who knew that we, students at The Culinary Institute of America, reside near a historic landmark
Izzy Yanay and his ducklings Photo: Todd Plitt, USA TODAY
when it comes the industry of Foie Gras? Founders of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Michael Ginor and Izzy Yanay, came across a specific breed of duck called a Mallard Cross. This breed is famed for producing a much creamier Foie then most. They established
BY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary themselves in the Hudson Valley in the early 1980’s when the culinary world as well as New York’s food reputation was becoming established. At that point, their farm had a firm imprint on the history of what we know as the food today. Not only did they grow with the culinary revolution, but it also shaped how we use and view what Foie Gras is. I spent this past summer in France eating copious amounts of all things duck related. I love duck, especially Foie Gras. Upon ordering Foie as a starter, to my dismay appeared a cold Foie Terrine with a warm baguette. Up until this day, I was puzzled to why this happened. I expected the seared, warm and fragrant Foie that I am use to, but to my surprise it was not a normal preparation in that province, unlike what I had seen in The States. Believe it or not, Hudson Valley Foie Gras was mainly responsible for this movement because of their product. It actually sears better because their ducks are raised and fed at a slower rate. Thus, the phenomenon continues that we are willing to pay top dollar for. It has become a part of our culinary backyard here at the CIA. Recently, we have all heard about the growing concerns of the improper treatment of the animals with force-feeding and cruel conditions. It exists, we all know about it, but how do farms like Hudson Valley maintain their integrity while still producing a fine and highly demanded product? “We are small enough to do it right, but big enough to supply the country,” Sales Director Rick Bishop said. These
The Humane Choice! Photo: hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com
ducks are Certified Cage Free and Hudson Valley is happy to declare their revolt on the “industrial trap.” When I asked him to express one word that most describes the farm he replied, “transparency. We have nothing to hide,” Bishop said. Hudson Valley has a close relationship to the CIA. They have been on campus to perform demos, talk about their ducks, and also collaborate with the staff and school clubs. The farm highly encourages CIA students to visit. “We have an Open Door policy,” Bishop said. The tour consists of a walkthrough of different stages of production, including the feeding. Best of all, visits are complimentary. It is a two hour trek to get to their farm. However, it is our social responsibility as students of the Culinary Institute of America to seek out further knowledge, especially about an obscure subject such as Foie Gras production. It is a student’s responsibility, both present and future, to know about the importance of sourcing and using resources like the Hudson Valley Foie Gras.
BY: Stephanie Kirkland, AOS Culinary
A peak inside Hawthorne Valley greenhouses
Hudson valley winter practices/techniques when other farmers are pondering over next season’s seeds in catalogues, all over the country, some are still harvesting late into the winter right here in the Hudson Valley. Greenhouses containing typical winter provisions can be found but you may also come across the bold, still growing delicate salad greens, kept warm with blankets in harsher weather and carrots, kale, and collard greens are still being picked, tasting sweeter, after a little frost. Still, in the midst of January, the Rhinebeck Farmers Market continually has Sunday morning farmers markets with offerings through April. Other, larger farms, that are able to commit themselves to risking their profit, and standing in the cold, of course, make their way down to New York City’s Union Square to showcase their upstate farms’ still bountiful selection late into the winter months when everything has seemed to be relatively grim.
On another side of the winter harvest spectrum, Winter Sun Farms in New Paltz, was created to give frozen monthly packages containing many fruits and vegetables you would commonly see being harvested in the spring and summer months. Sweet corn, raspberries, mixed peppers, and beans are picked at their prime and quickly frozen and stored to preserve all of the flavor, and richness that those foods of the season have to offer. There are farms from all around the Hudson Valley that have contributed their produce to Winter Sun Farms, offering a true assortment of foods that this region has to offer. Hawthorne Valley Farm, in Columbia County is a 400-acre biodynamic farm that offers everything from a farm store, learning center, creamery, summer camp, and workshop offerings with topics ranging from raw milk cheese production to biodynamic agriculture practices. Aging Gracefully: the Process of Ripening Cheese on Saturday, January 19 is going to be one of those opportunities to learn from our areas best. At the Farm Learning Center, join Peter Kindel, the Hawthorne Valley Farm cheese maker, who will teach students and participants alike how to convert curds into a finished cheese. During the class, curious watchers will be shown how to set up an “at home” aging facility, wash a number of different types of cheese, and go over mold ripening. Mr. Kindel, “has been making, selling, tasting, and teaching about cheese for 18 years. What began as a hobby evolved into studying cheese making in France, England, and Scotland. Since, Peter has
worked in highly-acclaimed cheese outlets in New York City including Picholine, Artisanal, and Murray’s Cheese. He has been a cheese maker at creameries in Vermont, Colorado, and California and now manages Hawthorne Valley Farm Creamery in New York’s Hudson Valley.” If you are still craving crisp fruits and vegetables in the thick of winter, they can surely be found. But if you have your eyes set toward warmer times, foods that have been preserved can bring you out of the deepest of winter hibernations. If you really try, I bet you can even taste the sunshine.
A variety of grapes at Union Square Market All Photography: Jocelynn Neri
LA PAPILLOTE
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BY: Dan Castro, Photographer, BPS Culinary
Chua’s Winnng Plate up!
As we headed to Valladolid, our final stop in Spain, some of our patience and sense of enthusiasm started to wear thin. Primarily, it was due to the fact that we have not had clean laundry for days, some students were getting ill, and the repetitive cramming of nineteen people in what was considered a soda can among some members of our group was beginning to be more then we could take. Despite these factors, glasses of wine, a Food Wine and Agriculture trip staple, and long showers always rejuvenated spirits, even if it was only a temporary basis. Away from the showers and wine, student involvement also rejuvenated the group as we got to enter the kitchens of the International School of Culinary Arts in Valladolid. Here, a three-course meal was created for the honored guests of the Annual International Tapas Competition under the guidance of Chefs Jesus Serrano and Julian Arranz; some of the most important chefs in Castilla y Leon. Amongst the dishes that were served, Beef Carpaccio with Foie Gras, Poached Cod with Salmon Mousse, and a Chocolate Mousse dessert layered with coconut and pineapple flavors were served. Overall, the lunch was well received which is evidence that the collaboration between the culinary and pastry students from different sides of the world worked. The solid management from the chefs and overall ability of the group shined throughout the afternoon festivities. After preparing lunch, the group got front row seats to the International Tapas
Competition where two of the Culinary Institute’s As this brief series in Spain ends, I would like to own students were competing: Terence Chua from wish safe and fun travels for those who would be the Singapore campus and Daniela Vasquez from leaving for their Food, Wine and Agriculture trip our Hyde Park Campus. In the competition, Chua soon, wherever it may be. Each person who is going made a variation of the croqueta; a traditional to a trip has earned a right to a vacation where each Spanish fritter dish. The plate consisted of a small would have their own experience and stories to tell. cod fritter, frittata (a Spanish Egg dish), and a potato Eat, drink, and merry they always say. This is the chip. Vasquez’s dish was called the “History of the best time to do so. Fisherman”, an octopus dish that Vasquez won with in a student competition here on campus to qualify for the international competition. Prior to the competition, Vasquez and her mentor Chef Sergio Remolina kept tweaking the dish to meet the standards of the judges with people in the panel such as Chef Oriol Castro of Compartir, who is primarily known as Chef Ferran Adria’s right hand man at El Bulli. Overall, Chua placed third while Vasquez placed fourth. To no one’s dismay, Vasquez stated that to compete in a global stage such as the International Tapas Competition is an honor in itself. She then stated that it was a lot of fun and would love to compete again in a similar platform. My experience in Valladolid was also unique in that it involved a lot of fieldwork. In one day during the trip, we met with a couple that lives in the small province away from Valladolid called Asturianos. Their names are Augusto and Ana and they specialize in plants. They gave us a tour around the village and showed us several plants that could be edible in a case of emergency (think in this case, Bear Grylls). Afterwards, the group also ate at a restaurant ran by Chef Gloria, who is recognized for her achievements in the specialization of mushroom cookery. Over twelve courses, 12 different kinds of mushrooms were prepared. One of the most memorable dishes Daniela Vasquez during the competition during the meal was a braised beef with a sweet Photography: Dan Castro Photography chestnut sauce that left an impression and a memory in our minds. As Chef Gloria was hospitable throughout the whole time, she also showed us the mushrooms that were used for the dish after which were displayed in the table, and stated that most of the mushrooms there were specifically picked for her, and they are usually fresh, about one to two days old. This experience, though not as traditional as what we would find in American restaurants, is culturally shocking in that it surprised our palates and expectations, which was a main goal of this trip. The CIA’s Latin Cuisines Certificate Program (LCCP) at the CIA San Antonio will give you
Expand YourH orizons with a
the in-depth knowledge and culinary specialization you need to make your mark on the foodservice industry. In the program, you’ll: • Become immersed in the unique ingredients and cultural traditions of this rich region. • Study the foods of Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Central America, the Caribbean, and more.
• Gain valuable hands-on experience in Nao, the college’s new on-campus public restaurant that focuses on the diverse cuisines of Latin America. • Learn from expert faculty and visiting Latin cuisines instructors.
Be sure to apply for our special La Vista Grant, which covers 75% of program costs, a value of $21,400! For more information about the LCCP, visit www.ciachef.edu/lccp.
Chef Remolina and Daniela at the competition Photography: Dan Castro Photography
January 18, 2013
FOOD & BEVERAGE
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BY: Robert Flowers, AOS Culinary Yes, it’s about that time. Most students who share wherever it would, bleeding yellow. I could feel the as it was served. It was tasteful, with depth of flavor, my start date are either approaching or have arrived piercing stress rush upon the cooks, as did my egg greater than any powdered broth packet or 3 minute at the end of their externships. Having arrived in yolk. It burst under the pressure, smothering the cooking noodles I have ever eaten. The noodles had New York City for a visit before the start of school, corn beef hash hidden beneath it. As for taste, it was a pleasant bite; They weren’t the overcooked morsels alright- nothing exciting- but floating in a can of soup. The pork was tender and it was breakfast. My friend the egg, in its simplicity, scrumptious. The nori was seemed satisfied though. noi; I don’t believe it added much to the dish and I continue to be wary of with uncertainty; I lifted the entire square, now consumer reviews; sometimes, rehydrated, to my mouth. As the broth in my bowl you have to just know it reduced to less hen half, I wondered why certain yourself. Breakfast was eaten, condiments were available, convinced that if they the bill was paid, and we were weren’t intended for our use, they wouldn’t have on our way. We had reflected been made available. Curious to know of its flavorful on extern and pondered contribution, I picked up a shaker, filled with a the journey back. We went ground red powder, reminiscent of pimentone, I separate directions, only to shook a dash into my spoon and sipped, expecting a ultimately meet in the foyer of small heat wave. It tasted like some blend of chilies Roth Hall. and was not too hot. From another bulbous jug, I Earlier in the week, a poured what looked like vinegar, in viscosity and group mate stood waiting for color. I brought a pour to my mouth and was gladly me on the A, C, E platform surprised to find the taste of sesame oil flushed in the train station. We met over my tongue. While we chewed and slurped, we up to have lunch in the continued to ruminate on our externships and all city. Dipping and dodging the adventure that came with it. We discussed our Corned Beef Hash & Eggs through the inner workings of discussions and interactions previously had with Photo: crankingkitchen.com the New York subway, we winded other members of our group. But now our bowls and weaved through our time at were empty, and so was our conversation. With time I thought it would be fun to catch up with a few of the CIA and the evolution of our perceptions and to spare, we found ourselves chomping on a slice them. What better way to catch up than over a meal. intentions, from our arrival on campus through the of pizza, not quite cut from the memories I hoped I arranged with one to meet for breakfast. He would momentous happenings of the extern experience. to revisit, but it was close. To the last crumb, we be arriving at Grand Central, so we searched for As we climbed the stairs to the sidewalks of 14th chatted over the dreaded externship manuals and some diners in the area offering simply good food. Street, a new light was shed on us. Our enlightening the appreciated change of requirements since our We didn’t search very hard, being that I sought discussion had to be put on hold as we move departure. suggestion from a chef in the city. He recommended to more serious matters: what would we eat for Pizza down, we were up and out the door I left anew. Scotty’s diner on Lexington and 39th. lunch? The only foods left on my NY list from my Aside from my nearly bulging stomach, I was on In New York, one of the wonderful things is the childhood, was a roti and a slice of pizza; thin but the verge of bursting with excitement, reminded great diversity of cuisine and kitchens to choose pliable crust, steaming hot and arching under the of the possibilities within the industry and the from. At the same time, this can cause a problem weight of the melted cheese, the pizza that used to opportunities that my experiences, at the CIA and only protectable by good discernment. (If the United be served slightly folded on a white plate, shoved in beyond, have made me aware of. I acknowledged States is a melting pot, New York is the fondue that an oil spotted brown bag. However, these were foods that I am still a youth and must afford to just go- to oozes out.) There are numerous shops, however, I had tasted before and with my new and refined explore the world dining, cooking, and learning- not proclaiming to provide the greatest, the most culinary appreciation of the 5 boroughs, I didn’t bogged down by a hindering caution or self-imposed authentic and some aiming to offer everything diners want my head to the city for: from pizza to chicken and bagels to-eat list to to cheesecakes. For this reason, stepping into any overshadow shop at one time or another is a risk. the hidden We went to the diner on Saturday morning. The treasures of entrance was congested, as it was narrow. The wall to downtown. our left was lined with two top tables and to our right With was a display case showing off pastries and cookies this, we adjoined to a seven seat bar facing the crowded headed grill. Further back was a larger dining area. We took through our seats and were handed a menu, which we used the doors for little more than confirming our order, having of a quaint examined the menu while we stood in the doorway. I shop on 9th ordered a corned beef hash with eggs over easy to be Ave called served with potatoes and toast; a diner classic I had Ramen. never studied. My friend ordered a French toast plate Hanging with a side of scrambled eggs and fried ham, bacon our coats and sausage. on the wall, The wait was not too long and our food arriving we took our to the table still smoking, though I did wait almost seats at the the entire meal to realize my toast never showed up. bar lining Grand Central curb appeal There was no fancy presentation, making it clear the the wall Photo: Wikimedia Commons cook’s job in this establishment is to just get the food across from the large communal table occupying to the plate. As our appetites roared, the steam rising the center of the floor. We were handed menus; in from the food condensed on our salivating tongues. a place named Ramen, I didn’t spend much time restriction. It’s time to move beyond just dreaming The French toast arrived in a conventional cascade studying the menu, assuming the best decision was and reaching for the stars, those ostentatious, gaseous fanned outward, a rich yellow with scrumptious to order ramen, of course. masses that cannot be grasped (unless we’re talking brown spots. The meats, scooted onto the plate with It was deliciously warming. In a large bowl of about Michelin stars perhaps). Rather than dreaming the scrambled egg, appeared crispy yet moist. I tasted broth, an island of ramen was surrounded by a pair adrift or reaching amiss, I am awake, digging in to the sausage; it had flavor, but it was underwhelming. of thin medallions of barbecued pork, half a semiwhat lies be for me, whether outside my door or on You could hear the spices talking, but they were by hard boiled egg (the creamy yolk pooled in the my table, fueling me to accomplish what others only no means screaming. boat of the egg’s white), and a raft of nori. With my dream of. I implore you: don’t find yourself among My eyes on my own plate now, the potatoes were chopsticks penetrating the ramen mound, I broke the others. most obvious. They were plainly cooked. Hanging away long strands from the noodle network, aiming from their shoulders was a fried egg, having fallen to eat at least the first few bites as a purist, eating it
LA PAPILLOTE
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Tom Colicchio spent his childhood immersed in cooking with his mother and grandmother, but it was his father who suggested he make a career of it. Tom taught himself to cook with the help of Jacques Pépin’s legendary French cooking manuals La Technique and La Méthode, and at age 17 made his kitchen debut at Evelyn’s Seafood Restaurant in Elizabeth, NJ. Chef Colicchio went on to cook at prominent New York restaurants such as The Quilted Giraffe, Gotham Bar & Grill, Rakel, and Mondrian. During his tenure as executive chef of Mondrian, Food & Wine selected him as one of the top 10 “Best New Chefs” in the U.S. and The New York Times awarded the restaurant three stars. In 1994, Chef Colicchio and business partner Danny Meyer opened Gramercy Tavern, where his cooking garnered three stars from The New York Times and
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earned him the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef—New York” Award in 2000. The following year, Chef Colicchio opened Craft, and soon after, The New York Times awarded it three stars, an achievement repeated in 2011 when the newspaper reviewed the restaurant again. In 2002, Craft was named “Best New Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation and Chef Colicchio received the Bon Appétit American Food and Entertaining Award for “Chef of the Year.” With Craft and its casual sibling, Craftbar, established in New York City, Chef Colicchio set out to expand the reach of his simple, elegant brand of cooking, opening restaurants in Las Vegas and Los Angeles, as well as at Foxwoods Resort Casino in Connecticut. He opened his first ’wichcraft—a sandwich shop rooted in the same food and hospitality philosophies as Craft—in New York City in 2003. The concept has since expanded to 14 locations in New York City as well as one in Las Vegas and one in San Francisco. Since 2006, Chef Colicchio has been applying his experience and expertise as head judge on the Emmy-winning television series Top Chef, now in its 10th season. In 2008, he opened Tom: Tuesday Dinner. Inspired by his time behind the stove there,
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he next launched Colicchio & Sons, where he improvises with small-batch ingredients from microproducers and family farmers with whom he has forged decades-long relationships. The restaurant holds three stars from The New York Times. In May 2010, Chef Colicchio was awarded the James Beard Foundation’s coveted “Outstanding Chef” honor, the culmination of his 30 years of hard work in the restaurant industry. Shortly thereafter, in September 2010, he opened Riverpark, helmed by Sisha Ortuzar, his partner in ’wichcraft. In 2012, Chef Colicchio and partners Bill Campbell and Simon Critchell opened the full-service inn and restaurant Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton, NY. Along with his work at his own establishments, Chef Colicchio has consulted for restaurants in New York City; Jersey City, NJ; Kiawah Island, SC; and Ireland. He is the author of the James Beard Award-winning Think Like a Chef, as well as Craft of Cooking and a sandwich book inspired by ’wichcraft. Chef Colicchio and his restaurants give back to the community by supporting a number of charitable organizations, including Share Our Strength, Children of Bellevue, City Harvest, Alex’s Lemonade Stand, and Healthright International. Provided by: Shelly Loveland, Coordinator
Culinary Arts Group #3 Se Chul Yang Ben Kestner Herbert Ferrufino Jose Carrasquillo
Christian Bellucci Greg Boggs Kirk Wright Asaf Ferber
POT LUCK
january 18, 2013
11
BY: Jeremy Salamon, AOS Culinary
Personally, I believe there is something about a cookbook that makes it so enchanting. Maybe it’s the aroma of a newly bound book or the memories of an old one; perhaps it’s the notion of knowing that each page carries a crumb of someone’s life. To me, a cookbook is a way of keeping legacies, traditions and tales alive. To the contrary, not everyone takes the time to read the print in a cookbook anymore. I mean, how many of us skip over the introduction or foreword; the small “blurbs” or “notes” that linger
above the list of measured ingredients. Maybe it’s not that we don’t read them (in depth), but it could just be the dawn of convenience and practicality. We only have so much space on our shelves and counter’s to accommodate thousands of pages. So why are cookbooks going digital? And what dose it
mean for printed cookbooks? With the invention of tablets and E-readers it is hard to say no to the inviting retina displays and variety of miniature sizes. If anything, you could argue we’re saving tree’s, which is fair, but could we be loosing balance from the ground of which we stand on? With all the technology there already is, are we pulling ourselves The future of school? away from what’s Photo: pigeonholsapp.wordpress natural and real? I like to think back to the movie Matilda. It’s about the brilliant and telekinetic little girl who always went to the library. She stuffed her face into the pages of Charles Dickens and loaded a small red wagon with a jackpot of novels. I wonder what the worth of her character would be had she bought books from the iTunes store on her iPad mini. Matilda and her books stood for that grounded human quality we all have within us. Ebook sales have sky rocketed only within the last few years. According to Publishers Weekly, “Ebook sales rose 117% for the year 2011 generating revenue of $969.9 million of the companies that report sales to the Association of American Publishers”. In the opposition, paperbacks were down 36% to $431.5 million. In 2011 cookbooks were just beginning to make there presence in the ebook industry when the classic Mastering The Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child joined the digital ranks. In contrary to all these obvious statistics, the root of the issue lies within the truths of those greaseMatilda; A reading icon. Photo: alienhippie.wordpress stained pages. The recipes my great aunt scribbled on the back of a note-splattered flashcard were meant to be so. Of course I’ve typed them up and saved her sacred spinach borek recipe to my hard drive, but when I
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make them I look to the original card for reference. Was the nook or iPad made to be splattered with spinach and farmers cheese or rubbed with flaky pastry? Of course ebooks have the leverage of being cheaper, but so does ordering hardcover books online. Digital book stores save us a trips to the actual physical book store, its within reach and sensible. So what’s the final decree? I don’t think there’s a right or a wrong when it comes to the digital transformation of cookbooks. There are two sides to every story and some of those will be read with a book in hand and others with an Ereader. The upside to this all is that cookbooks will always be around, even in a potentially dystopian future where there is no print, someone, somewhere will be cooking and making memories. Now isn’t that the point of a cookbook? You decide.
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