Volume 39, No. 3
March 2, 2018
La
Papillote
North River Roasters Introduces Sustainable Coffee BY: Valerie Goodrich, Reviewer
Interior view of North River Roasters.
photo courtesy: Valerie Goodrich
North River Roasters in Poughkeepsie, NY is a coffee shop for everyone. It is designed and made for all people from all walks of life, with every budget or dietary restriction. North River Roasters welcomes all customers into their homey-feeling shop featuring wood floors, exposed brick, and soft lighting that gives off a golden glow to the shop. Chairs and couches are set up for whatever mood you are in: sitting back and reading a book with a cold brew in hand, or catching up with friends over a latte. The coffee beans are sourced organically and free of pesticides. “We’re a social enterprise”, says Feza Oktay, 10-year Poughkeepsie Underwear Factory volunteer and owner of the cof-
fee bean roasting at North River Roasters, “we’re not just looking at profits. We’re looking at what sort of community and environmental impacts we’re having from a positive standpoint”. A big part of North River Roasters is to be environmentally sustainable-for all take out drinks, compostable cups are used. The coffee grounds and the coffee bags used at the shop can also be composted. Also, the coffee shop only buys their coffee from fair trade or direct trade sources in order to secure the promise of workers receiving fair wages. North River Roasters is in the Poughkeepsie Underwear Factory, a building built in 1874 that was used as just that, a factory that produced underwear. Now,
Cont’d on Pg 6
Buffalo Wings BY: Katherine Luscher, Staff Writer
Buffalo, New York, is a proud food city; its early Polish, Italian and German immigrants brought their traditional dishes along in their travels. The area boasts an abundance of pizza joints and, like Midwestern cities, lots of meats and sausages. A particular Buffalo tradition is the “beef on weck” sandwich, consisting of thinly-sliced hot roast beef on a kimmelweck roll, with a large dollop of eye-burning horseradish. Just about every restaurant in Buffalo serves its version of beef on weck, but the dish that the city is most famous for is indeed the Buffalo chicken wing. Spicy Buffalo chicken wings accompanied by crisp celery and tangy blue cheese dressing is one of the most popular bar foods across America. The tradition of serving deepfried chicken wing bones dates back to 54 years ago. Up until the 1960’s, the “flat” (the twoboned part of the wing with meat in the middle) and the
“drumstick” (the piece that looks like a miniature chicken leg) were either thrown out or used for stocks and broths. Ironically, after the creation of the renowned Buffalo wing, wings have become one of the most expensive and desirable parts of the chicken. The first chicken wing is credited to being created at the famous Anchor Bar, a small Italian restaurant on the north side of Buffalo (hence the name “Buffalo” wing). At the time, it was owned by Teressa and Frank Bellissimo; Teressa did the cooking, and Frank did the restaurant’s purchasing. Both have since passed away, but their story goes like this: Teressa claims it all started on a Friday night in March of 1964 when her son Dominic invited a bunch of his friends to his parents’ bar. He and his buddies were ravenous for some meat after being restricted to a diet of fish and vegetables for the day during Roman Catholic Lent. When the clock struck midnight, Dominic asked his mom to cook them up
“Editorial” Campus News
“Feature” Cont’d Series
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something cheap to share. There wasn’t much meat left to cook, so she ended up throwing chicken wings into the deep-fryer and coating them in hot sauce and butter. She then squeezed some blue cheese salad dressing into a cup and cut up some celery on the side. Little did she know that she was forever changing the food scene in Buffalo. The dish was an instant success and was thus added as a permanent item on the Anchor Bar menu. Through word of mouth, news of the delicious new dish spread. Locals and tourists flocked to the Anchor Bar to taste the new culinary sensation. Soon after, the Buffalo wing concoction started to appear in other western New York restaurants and then across the country, where they can still be found today. There are also restaurant chains devoted entirely to wings, such as Buffalo Wild Wings and Wingstop. In Buffalo, the battle to be known for the “best” wing is taken seriously. The Anchor Bar’s
Cont’d on Pg 5
The famous “Kissing Waitress” at Anchor Bar, Buffalo, New York. photo courtesy: www.unbravegirl.com
Papillote
En P 4-5
CENTER SPREAD
“Feature” Wine & Prohibition
P 6-7
“Entertainment” March Madness Bracket
BACK PAGE
“Sustainability” Menus of Change: Seafood
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LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
September 9, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alex Talbot LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Valerie Goodrich Katherine Luscher Jeff Levine Alex Talbot Selena Layton Emily White
From the Editor’s Desk
Dan Salisbury Baylin Brink Shelly Loevland Leslie Jennings
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Dear Faculty, Staff, and Fellow Students, I hope this issue finds you well. It’s been fantastic to hear from you all and receive feedback for the paper. A special thanks to Bacchus Wine Society, Chef Greweling, and the Learning Strategies Center for letting the paper be a part in show casing your events and projects. In this issue we delve into religious wine and prohibition before sliding down to the iconic buffalo wing. Our reviewers highlight North River Roasters as well as Melrose Diner. The CIA also has seven students heading off to the Woman’s Food Service Forum this block. Look for their contributions in the weeks to come. Also, the crossword puzzle will make it’s much anticipated return in the next upcoming issue. Thanks again for all the fabulous feedback. Best, Alex Talbot
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Alex Talbot, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alex Talbot Layout Editor
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
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Telephone: 845-451-1314
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Jennifer Knepper Copy Editor
Emily Palefsky Social Media Editor
@fblapapillote
@lapapillote
Liz Lucinese Jr. Copy Editor
March 2, 2018
Campus
Campus News BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Staff Contributor
AU REVOIR, MONSIEUR BOCUSE The students, faculty, and staff of The Culinary Institute of America mourned the passing of culinary legend Paul Bocuse in January. The CIA named Chef Bocuse its Chef of the Century in 2011 and two years later—with Chef Bocuse in attendance—renamed the flagship French restaurant on the CIA’s New York campus in his honor. “Paul Bocuse is, simply stated, the most important chef in history. He set the standard for culinary excellence, business acumen, and media savvy that generations of chefs around the world still aspire to,” said CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan. “While others influenced 20th century cuisine, it was his leadership, his vision, and his willingness to take
risks that set in motion the century’s global culinary renaissance.” Dr. Ryan compared Bocuse’s influence on his generation of chefs to Elvis Presley’s influence on music, calling him “a source of great inspiration, the object of our adoration, and the model for our emulation. Just as musicians around the world, from the Beatles to Bruce Springsteen, aspired to be like Presley, legions of young chefs dreamed of being Bocuse.” At The Bocuse Restaurant, CIA Senior Director of Food and Beverage Waldy Malouf led guests, faculty, and students in a toast in Chef Bocuse’s memory. The CIA sends its condolences to his son, CIA graduate Jérôme Bocuse, and the entire Bocuse family.
NEW LOOK, MENU FOR APPLE PIE BAKERY CAFÉ The Apple Pie Bakery Café on the New York campus reopened in January in a redesigned space with a menu featuring both classic favorites and crave-worthy new sweet and savory selections. Since it opened in 2000, the bakery café has been the CIA’s most popular restaurant. By last year, it was serving more than double the number of guests initially anticipated. As part of the renovations, the café’s kitchen
and service lines were expanded to better accommodate customers. From a design standpoint, renowned hospitality designer Adam D. Tihany reimagined the space for the next generation of students and the local community. The new bright color scheme includes cream and shades of soft, cool green. Classic brasserie-style decorative floor tiles set the tone for a relaxed, welcoming environment, while modular chandeliers and circular
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sconces illuminate the dining and take-out areas. The Apple Pie Bakery Café is also a CIA classroom. Both front- and back-of-house are staffed by sophomores majoring in baking and pastry arts. The Apple Pie Bakery Café TAKE OUT AREA is open 7:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Monday-Friday, with seating available 7:30 a.m.-10 a.m. TABLE SERVICE is offered Monday-Friday, from 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
photo courtesy: Phill Mansfield
CIA TEAMS WITH FOOD & WINE ON NEW FESTIVAL SERIES The CIA is teaming with Food & Wine magazine to host a festival series for food enthusiasts across the country. The inaugural FOOD & WINE Weekend with the CIA will be held February 16– 18 at the CIA at Copia in Napa, CA. The three-day event is the ultimate gastronomic getaway filled with tastings, handson cooking lessons, educational seminars, and much more. Attendees will “eat like a local” at
photo courtesy: Phill Mansfield
the opening reception, explore current food trends in hands-on cooking sessions, create popular global street foods, learn about up-and-coming California wine regions, and enjoy a dinner showcasing California’s bounty. It is the perfect pairing of Food & Wine’s renowned authority with the CIA’s unparalleled excellence in the education arena. Registration information is online. Additional FOOD & WINE Weekends with the CIA will be offered July 13–15 and October 19–21.
photo courtesy: Phill Mansfield
CIA WELL-REPRESENTED ON 2018 “NRN POWER LIST” CIA alumni and supporters fill the roster of the 50 most important people in the food and hospitality industry for 2018. The influential foodservice trade publication Nation’s Restaurant News has come out with its annual NRN Power List and it includes three CIA graduates—including the college president—along with a member of the college’s Board of Trustees, four members of its Society of Fellows, and a former faculty member. The NRN Power List recognizes the people who are
leading and shaping the food world. Alumni on the list are Maneet Chauhan, Dale Talde, and CIA President Tim Ryan. Chauhan and Talde are included in the “Tastemakers” category, while Dr. Ryan was honored in the “Influencers” category. For Ryan, it was his fourth time on the list in the last five years. Kyle Connaughton, who taught in the CIA’s Culinary Science department, is also among the “Tastemakers.” Board member Noah Glass, founder of Olo, was named in the “Tech Leaders” category. In addition, CIA Fellows Paul Brown (“Heavy-
weights”), Denny Marie Post and Brett Schulman (“Ones to Watch”), and Christina Tosi (“Tastemakers”) are among those receiving recognition this year. Nation’s Restaurant News Editor-in-Chief Jenna Telesca writes that the “executives, influencers, culinary types, dealmakers and operators (on the list) are adapting to a changing world, or helping lead that change.” Telesca adds that, for the $800 billion-a-year-and-growing American restaurant industry, “use the people on this list as your guide to the shifting restaurant landscape.”
photo courtesy: Phill Mansfield
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Escape: Part 5 BY: Selena Layton, Staff Writer
Relief flooded over me and I brought my eyes up to meet his again. “You mean it? You’ll help me then?” Vanni sighed, “I don’t know how exactly I can help, but I can guarantee you that I will try.” I wiped a tear from my cheek. “Thank you, Vanni.” There was a bang from a door closing that came from the front of the apartment and a man spoke out. “Hello?” His voice projected through the house. Vanni looked over his shoulder to the open bathroom door and smiled. “Ah, Audrey, this is my son, Nico!” “Dad?” Nico yelled again. “There you are!” Nico said, appearing in the doorway. “What are you do?” He saw me sitting on the counter and his smile faltered. “Oh, who is this?” His gaze shifted between me and Vanni. “Nico, this young lady is Audrey! She tripped over Wolfie’s leash and she is hurt so I am helping her.” “Oh, that’s awful, are you okay?” Nico looked at me with a slightly concerned look that grew only more concerned when he saw what I was wearing. I looked down at my now-dirtied night clothes and my cheeks turned a light shade of pink. He turned towards Vanni and spoke in a low voice. “Uh, can I speak with you privately for a minute?”
Nico closed the bathroom door behind them after Giovanni followed him out. I could not hear them well through the door but I was able to make out most of the words that they were saying. “…you can’t just bring a stranger into the apartment, dad. Look at her, she’s filthy and you don’t even know where she came from…” “Actually I do know where she is from. She is from the institution about ten minutes away. The people there were treating her just awfully and she ran away from them. She ran towards me outside when I was walking Wolfie and she didn’t see me in the dark so she tripped over the leash and…” “Wait, now hold on! She escaped from the institution and you just let her in our apartment? Have you lost your mind?! She could be dangerous!” “Nico, does she look dangerous to you? Besides, she is hurt! What was I supposed to do? I felt bad for the poor girl!” “Dad, you cannot just let strangers into the house, even if you feel bad for them! You need to call the police and let the authorities take care of the situation. She should not be here.” “Son, listen to me, please. She was in trouble and hurt and she is scares out of her mind. I think we should help her and just wait. We
should look into her situation and see if we can help her.” “Yeah, and by “we” you mean “me”.” “Well, Nico, you are the lawyer so I figured you could help her somehow!” “No, dad, you don’t even know the girl, what do you expect me to do for her?” “Just look into her situation, will you? Don’t you remember what happened to your mother?” “Of course I remember.” Nico sighed. “She was different though. That girl in there is nothing like mom was.” “This girl shows kindness in her eyes, just like your mother. She needs our help Nico, and she is scared. We should at least try and help her, please give it a try.” I was frozen. I don’t know what to expect when they walk back through the door. Will Geovanni listen to Nico and kick me out, send me crawling back to the mad house? The door knob turns and I brace myself for whatever may come my way next. Nico walks into the room while Giovanni stays at the door and silently observes Nico’s next actions. “Hi there Audrey, I’m Nico, as you heard. I don’t know if I fully agree with this idea, but my dad here thinks that we can help you, so I’m going to see if I can do anything to help. He told me
some of your situation and…” He glanced over at Giovanni and looked back at me. “Uh, well, my mom was once in a similar situation that you are in.” I was speechless. That was not the reaction I expected to get at all. I waited for him to take it back and to tell me that it was all just a cruel joke and that they were really going to send me back to the mad house. I was about to open my mouth to speak when there was a knock at the front door. “Police! Open up!” My eyes grew wide and I took a sharp intake of breath. “No, no, no, no, no! They found me! They are going to take me back! I can’t go back there with them! Please, you can’t let them take me back there to that mad house!” I scrambled across the countertop. I was a sobbing mess and I was starting to hyperventilate. When I could not scoot any further my hand slipped from the edge of the countertop and sent me tumbling to the floor. “Agh!” My twisted ankle was first to hit the floor and the pain knocked the breath from my lungs. “Whoa! Hey, take it easy!” Nico rushed over to my side and offered me his hand to help me stand up. “Dad, can you answer the door, please? I’ll help her with
her ankle. And whatever you do don’t let them inside!” Giovanni looked hesitant for a second, but he nodded and headed to answer the front door. Nico looked down at me and then to his hand that was still extended out waiting for me to grab. I accepted his extended hand and he helped me to my feet. I winced at the pain coming from my ankle as I put slight pressure on it. He helped me back up onto the counter so he could address my wounded ankle while I tried to calm myself down. “So, how did you get into all of this mess?” I took a deep breath and told him everything that I had told Giovanni. I told him about why I was in the mad house to begin with, what it was like for me there, how my parents never even visited, and how I escaped. “Huh…well your ankle is all fixed up. It isn’t broken but you sprained it pretty good.” Giovanni came to the doorway and leaned against the frame. Nico looked up at my worried expression and followed my gaze to his father. “Dad, hey, what did the officers say?” “About that,” I looked at Giovanni nervously. “We need to talk.”
Student Highlights WOMEN’S FORUM
FOODSERVICE
* WFF [Women’s Foodservice Forum] is an organization that serves to promote the success of women in the foodservice industry. * They host an Annual Leadership Conference comprised of seminars and activities designed to teach, promote discussion, and foster connections among industry members and leaders. * 7 CIA students will be attending the 2018 conference at the beginning of March. Keep an eye out for social media coverage of this event (mention whatever CIA social media platform Canieka is planning to use). There will also be a program titled “Women in Leadership” on March 14, 2018, for Women’s History Month that will bring knowledge gained at the conference back to the CIA campus.
BACCHUS WINE SOCIETY Professor Von Eikh leading students into an exploration of wine and food paring. With a selection of beautiful wines and a tasting plate, she personifies wine in a relatable way that students can connect with and understand, to open the doors into wine exploration. Wines Tasted: 1. Gruet Winery Sparkling Brut NV 2. Eva Fricke Riesling Trocken Rheingau 2016 3. Rende Masdeu Conca de Barbera DO Rosat de Syrah El Follet 2016 4. Domaine Michel Juillot Mercurey AOC “Le Meix Juillot” 2015 5. Easton Zinfandel Amador County 2013 6. Whitecliff Winery White Ruby A special thanks to Bacchus Wine Society to inviting La Papillote to join them in their wine tasting.
Professor Von Eikh explaining different wines to students.
photo courtesy: Alex Talbot
March 2, 2018
Features
cont’d Buffalo Wings
Original Wings at Anchor Bar, Buffalo, New York.
main competitor is Duff’s restaurant. In late 2009, Food Network’s show Food Wars filmed an episode comparing both restaurant’s wings; Duff’s wings were the ultimate winner after a final vote of 3:2. I strongly disagreed, but
photo courtesy: www.travelfoodanddrink.com
everyone has their own opinion! Since my parents grew up near Niagara Falls, Buffalo’s sister city, I’ve had ample opportunity to taste many different styles. I have also been to both the Anchor Bar and Duff’s and can honestly
say that Anchor Bar’s wings are truly the best I have ever had. One thing that separates the Anchor Bar wings from competitors is their size. By starting with the largest wings available and frying for an unusually long
12-14 minutes in 350-degree oil, their wings are exceptionally crispy; I believe that the crispier, the better. The secret sauce is nothing more than a combination of Frank’s RedHot sauce and melted butter or margarine, although some Buffalo restaurants claim they have secret twists and tweaks. The most popular flavor for Buffalo wings nationwide is the traditional red-hot sauce coating in mild, medium, and hot spice levels. However, with the creativity in the food industry, there are now hundreds of wing varieties, the top contenders being Asian sesame, garlic parmesan and honey barbecue. Buffalonians who move elsewhere in the country have high expectations of their wings and disapprove of most attempts to improve on the original wings and sauces, especially those that try to pass breaded wings off as Buffalo wings! True wing fanatics know that to get the best wings, you have to make a trip to Buffalo. The popularity of Buffalo wings, a flavor sensation, is so marketable that one can even find Buffalo wing-flavored Doritos, Cheez-its, Combos, nuts, sun-
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flower seeds and even Snyder’s Pretzels. Buffalo chicken pizza is on the menu of most pizza joints, and Buffalo chicken dip is a common appetizer at bars and pubs. The aroma of Buffalo wing hot sauce can be smelled from across a room, distinct and pungent from the vinegar and tabasco peppers There is something about the combination of spicy sauce and chicken that draws the consumer in for more. In conclusion, I am going to leave you with one fun fact and two important questions to ask yourself and your friends. Fun Fact: Joey Chestnut, the #1 ranked Major League Eating (MLE) competitor, won the 2017 U.S. National Buffalo Wing Eating Championship (in Buffalo, NY of course) by downing 220 wings in 12 minutes. That is an average of 18 wings per minute, or 3 wings every 10 seconds. Go ahead and take a minute to comprehend that before moving on. And now, for two important questions: Are you a flat or a drumstick person? And Ranch or blue cheese dressing?
How to Make the Most of Your CIA Experience BY: Emily White, Staff Writer
The Culinary Institute of America has an outstanding retention rate compared to other colleges and universities in the United States, but that fact does not guarantee a favorable experience for every student. Many CIA students still struggle with common problems, like homesickness, depression, and feelings of being alone and overwhelmed. So how can you increase your chances of having a positive experience at the CIA? Here are a few tips. 1. Get to know the faculty and staff. The instructors and other staff members are all here to help you succeed. They are your most vital resource. Not only can they provide you guidance in your courses, but they can also influence your future. When you are looking for a job recommendation after graduation, the relationships you have fostered with your instructors and advisors can work in your favor. 2. Get to know your peers. Talk to other students! We all come from different places and have varied backgrounds and experiences. Take advantage of the CIA’s beautiful blend of cultures, and don’t be afraid to say hello to someone you don’t know. You
could make a lasting friendship, learn something new or at the very least have another friendly face to wave to around campus. 3. Utilize academic resources. Everyone has strengths and weaknesses. There’s no reason to hide any academic struggles. Without help, problems could grow out of control. Take advantage of tutoring opportunities; the learning center in the library is a safe place for students to seek help without fear of judgment or ridicule. 4. Study smarter. Figure out your specific learning style! Study in groups. Find your personal study space. Your dorm room could be full of distractions and consequently might not be the best learning environment. The CIA has countless lounge spaces and designated quiet areas. Scope out your favorite place on campus that makes you feel inspired. 5. Learn to manage your time. There are a lot of different techniques and styles of time management. Study at the same time each day. Keep a planner or make check lists. Avoid procrastination. 6. Get involved! Attend lectures and seminars. Join a team. There are countless clubs on campus for any interest, and if you don’t see a club that speaks to you, start one!
Take advantage of campus dining opportunities. Volunteer. When you feel disconnected, it can be easy to retreat and cut yourself off from the outside world but try your hardest to fight the urge to stay in your room. Opportunities aren’t going to find you; you have to get out there and find them. 7. Exercise and eat well. Take care of yourself so that you can give your best. Get a reasonable amount of sleep each night. Feed your body. Make a commitment to do one thing for yourself every day. College can be a challenging experience, not only academically but also socially and emotionally. The Culinary Institute of America is a particularly demanding school because we are the world’s premier culinary college, breeding the next great leaders of our industry. When you feel overwhelmed, which happens to everyone, just remember that you are not alone. Try some of these tips to help you get the most out of your college experience, and you just might make some amazing memories and feel an awesome sense of accomplishment and pride when you make it to that graduation ceremony.
photo courtesy: www.ciachef.edu
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Satiate Your Munchies at Melrose Diner BY: Dan Salisbury, Alumni Contributor
Philadelphia is wellknown for its involvement in the history of our country; take a day to see the famous crack in the Liberty Bell, walk to Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were signed, and run up the front steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art singing the Rocky theme-song like you’ve always wanted to. Eating out can be a hassle sometimes; cheesesteaks from Pat’s or Geno’s can only carry one so far. There are plenty of amazing restaurants that do a really great job in Philly, but they can get expensive. For those on tight budgets or who don’t really want anything super pretentious
or trendy, diner food can often be a blessing. For no-frills dining, turn to Melrose Diner. A staple in the Point Breeze neighborhood for what seems like forever – marking their 82nd year of service to the denizens of South Philly and beyond – Melrose Diner offers 24hour breakfast, lunch, and dinner to those lucky enough to snag a parking spot. Featuring typical diner food that one could find literally anywhere else, Melrose Diner is plain and simple. Décor? Nope. Comfy seats? Nah. Service? Eh. The portions big and hearty, Melrose Diner exists on the fact that the food is solidly prepared in a timely manner and
the rough-around-the-edges servers simply add to the experience. For breakfast, get a pancake combo. Hungover college students hide behind the piles of hash browns, (labeled home fries on the menu and an extra charge, but worth it) soak up their regrets and drunken-Tinder mistakes in the amber-hued pancakes, and top it off with piles and piles of bacon that have probably seen better days. The crispy edges on the home fries are a window into an imaginary and better world where Obama has a third term; however, we’re dealing with reality here. If there was a touch more salt and if the potatoes were actually warm, this could truly be a star. The
shredded spuds underneath that top layer offer an artificially buttery, creamy-yet-delicious haven that I found myself endlessly digging into throughout my breakfast. The pancakes, served with fake syrup in their branded plastic cups and a huge glob of whipped butter/margarine, are delicious as well. In my case, I received two large pancakes stuffed with chocolate chips – probably my one true comfort food. The exterior of each pancake was crispy, the interior fluffy, and they oozed with chocolate. The pancakes at Melrose Diner are good. Get them. Made famous within certain pop-punk circles, (you can thank Soupy and The Won-
der Years) Melrose Diner is really nothing too special. The waitresses could do better to remember which seat got what, but that’s part of the ambiance. Brunt serves and cooks who slam out food day in and day out and who turn tables left and right are the quintessential backbone of America; the stories at the counter pour out of various intergenerational mouths all while turkey club sandwiches and greasy burgers are toasted, broiled, served, and consumed. Melrose Diner is a staple of South Philly, the ripped seating of the blood-red booths stitched into the hearts of travelers and locals alike. It’s definitely worth checking out!
Caption Left-Right: Melrose Diner’s Take-Out sign lights up in early hours of the morning. Fluffy pancakes with whipped butter and bacon. photo courtesy left-right: Philadelphia Magazine, www.uwishunu.com
cont’d North River Roasters the building holds a variety of apartments for individual or family use, artist studios, and a space for the youth of Poughkeepsie to come together and learn the practice of media and arts programming. Oktay explained why North River Roasters is in the Poughkeepsie Underwear Factory; “The idea was to have businesses come into the Poughkeepsie Underwear Factory that were making things in the way that this was a building that made things. The idea of making coffee fit the bill in that regard”. The coffee beans are roasted in house, which ensures that they are are their freshest when ground and made into the customer’s coffee beverage choice. North River Roasters is very prideful of their ability to appease all diets in their shop; milk options include soy, almond, skim, whole, or half and half. On the food side of things, North River Roasters offers gluten free coffee cakes, gluten free or vegan cookies and muffins, and my per-
sonal favorite, a vegan chocolate spelt pound cake. Regular bagels with cream cheese, breakfast sandwiches, danishes, conchas, biscotti, cookies, and a variety of scones and muffins are also served here. The best quality of North River Roasters is their want to make this shop accessible to everyone, even those who cannot afford their products. How do they make this possible? Payit-forward, otherwise known as suspended coffee, originated in Naples, Italy. Oktay saw the idea and ran with it, implementing it into his own business. How it works is thus: one can purchase a cup of coffee, a bagel with cream cheese, or anything else on the menu. It is then written on a card and stuck up on their corkboard. Whoever is craving a cup of coffee or needs a breakfast pastry to jump start their day can now come and get one, charge free. If you love to help your community, save the planet, and support a good cause all
North River Roaster introduce sustainable coffee to Poughkeepsie.
while drinking fresh, sustainably sourced coffee, then North River Roasters is waiting for you at 8 North Cherry Street in Poughkeepsie. Bring your friends, loved ones, or even just your homework. Whatever you decide your move is, you are taking a step
in the right direction by coming here. If you would like to purchase their products, the Culinary Institute of America’s very own Apple Pie Bakery and Cafe uses their beans for their drip coffee and cold brew, as well as selling their coffee bean bags. In addi-
photo courtesy: Valerie Goodrich
tion to the CIA, other stores such as Zoe’s Ice Cream Barn, Adams Fairacre Farms, and Taste of New York sell North River Roasters’ coffee bean bags. The whole community is in on North River Roasters, and it’s time you should be, too.
March 2, 2018
Features
Wine & Prohibition BY: Bailyn Brink, Staff Writer
Wine has always been an important part of the Catholic Church.
From miracles to sacred ceremonies wine has always been associated with religion. The entwining history of wine and the church is something that many take for granted however, it cannot be denied. In fact, one of Jesus’ first miracles was to turn water into wine at a wedding that he attended. It is used as the symbolic blood of Christ at every sacramental partaking within the
photo courtesy: www.vinepair.com
church due to the infamous last supper meal before the crucifixion. These traditions within the church do not start there however, as in Genesis Noah is said to have planted a vineyard right after the great flood. He is thought by some within the catholic church to be the first wine maker. From then on wine is mentioned more than any other drink in the Bible. One could say the pages are satu-
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rated with the idea of wine. Where we become particularly concerned with these connections are not with the catholic monks who became leaders in wine making nor in the middle ages where the church rose to a greater power within society but at prohibition. Prohibition was a movement within America that pushed for the removal of any alcoholic substances. This meant
the production, sale, and consumption of all types of spirits, liquors, and intoxicants. The movement swept the United States, driven particularly by church involved women. If they could only have seen the irony. Due to the protection of religious practices under the Bill of Rights officials who began to pass laws regarding alcoholic beverages saw that they could not take away such rights. They had to find a way around totally banning something considered sacred within religious practice. Amidst cries of protest claiming that grape juice would work just as well as wine, law makers chose to pass laws that only wineries could sell wine and only to churches. This law is what saved wine making within the United States. Something to be known is that most wineries at that time were not privately owned. These wineries belonged to churches, monasteries, and other religious affiliates because those are who originally brought these practices to North America. Two specific peoples
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are where these traditions were most important, Italian and Irish Catholics. Their churches were where our wine lovers, holding it sacred within their history and culture, went. No one could stop the centuries of tradition that had steeped into these people. Not only to drink but to make wines, sometimes within their own homes. Many red wines are still made from family recipes in private houses passed down from this period. Where prohibitionist worked to sever these threads of culture, their work only strengthened the resolve. It brought forth a new sanctity within the connection of wine to faiths, because someone had tried to take it away. The people even more deeply embraced their holy liquids. Not only cherishing its presence within their churches but within their lives. It is why today American-Italian and American-Irish families are synonymous with passion for wine. Years of tradition and a decade of threat made wine a cornerstone of their religion.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Entertainment
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL OF
OUR LADY OF THE WAY (LA MADONNA DELLA STRADA)
HOLY MASS
SUNDAYS 10:00AM in the Extraordinary Form (1962, Latin) & NOON in the Ordinary Form (1970, English). HOLY DAYS NOON in the Ordinary Form.
CHAPLAIN: FATHER MARC OLIVER chaplainua@gmail.com 845/594-9111
The solution will be in the next issue.
March 2, 2018
Entertainment
March Madness
Active Allstar America Athletics Atlantic Coast Atlantic Ten Basketball Big East Big Ten Big Twelve
Bracket Challenge Buzzer Beater Championship Cinderella Clutch Coach Competition Conference Defensive Dribble
Elite Eight Final Four Finalist Free Throw Hoop Ivy League March Madness NCAA Offensive Pac Twelve
Penalties Possession Rankings Rebound Recruit Schools Scoreboard Southeast Sportsmanship Sweet Sixteen
Last Block’s Puzzle Solution
Key
Three Pointer Tickets Time Out Travel Turnover Underdog Uniform West Coast
*Save this bracket for Select/ion Sunday 3/4 to fill out for this year’s basketball games!
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of March 2, 2018 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Taylor Henry, German R. Mejia, Siddharth Shetty, Dorothy Van Remmen, Wenlan Tan, Shugng Guo, Sharon Hwang Back Row: Henry Long, Noel Donlan, Andrea Rechtiene, Neko Randazzo, Matthew Sherman, Tyler Gettrost, Carlos Vlerio, Shawn Dalton
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Sahil Laud, ANthony Goy, Marianny LongoMercodo, Bethany Hamilton, Kathleen Perez, Giovanni Bartoace, Cheyenne Stiles Back Row: Ellie Amsden, Lucas Shyde, Joshua Gibbs, Jacob Happel, John Minker, Alex Hess, Eric Lewicki, Channarong Manoping
Baking & Pastry Arts Group #1
Front Row: Carly brown, Luisa Acosta, Tusobe Conuertino, Dain Shim, Morgan Hawthorne, Rachel Fine Back Row: Holly Michaud, Kallie Ann Romascauage, Alexandra Janisch, Dennis Moreno, Alexandra Doscher, Christian Munyar, Lei Qian, Emily McCarthy
Baking & Pastry Arts Grou #2
Front Row: Melissa Iovino, Ashley Williams, Kyra N. Call, Sara Carmona, Sham Buononath, Elizabeth Riehl, Sara Ines Gomez Selman H. Back Row: Victoria Yibrin, Eliana Maya, Michelle Whitney, Baylee Krumm, Benjamin Yusko, Dorothy Eaues, Chantel Gaboriault, Destiney Ploof, Katrina Heil
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Hhori Eubanks, Paula Robinson, Jaclyn Knipp, Kelvin Aguilar, Pei Yu Un, Jinyu Zhong, Gloria Lanier, Ethan Stouffer Back Row: Myung Jae Lee, Hoerley Hunior DaSilva, Tenzin Damdul, Seth Boylan, Seungwan Kang, Wonseok You, Jonau Leoy, John Beischer, Joseph Brunetti, Raymond Gonzales, Joshua Vazqueztell
March 2, 2018
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Fany Gerson ’98 Chef/Owner: La Newyorkina, Chef/Co-Owner, Dough
BY: Shelly Loveland, CIA Staff Contributor
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
Conrad N. Hilton Library Learning Library Commons: Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Video Center Hours: Campus Store Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm 10:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00amFriday: 8:30am-5:00pm 6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
Fany Gerson is the chef/ owner of La Newyorkina, an artisanal Mexican frozen treats and sweets business, and chef/ co-owner of Dough, a gourmet doughnut shop, both in New York City. Considered one of the country’s most authoritative voices on Mexican confections, Chef Gerson is a 1998 culinary arts graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. She has worked in a range of fine-dining kitchens around the world, including the three-Michelin-starred Akelaŕe in Spain and Eleven Madison Park in New York. But it was after a yearlong trip to Mexico to write her first book, My Sweet Mexico, that Chef Gerson was inspired to share and celebrate the amazing frozen treats and sweets of her native country. The result was La Newyorkina, which she launched in 2010 by making paletas and selling them from a cart at the Hester Street Fair on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Her idea was to start with these delicious ice pops because the paleta is to Mexicans what gelato is to Italians—a delicious and integral part of the culture. La Newyorkina expanded from one cart to several and, in 2016, Chef Gerson opened her first brick-and-mortar La Newyorkina store in the city’s West Village. In addition to paletas, La Newyorkina also offers treats like cookies, breads, and old-fashioned Mexican confections. Chef Gerson and her team carefully source their ingredients and work closely with local farmers to get
Hours of Operation Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
delicious organic dairy, seasonal fruits, and herbs. They import other ingredients like Mexican vanilla bean, Oaxacan chocolate, tamarind, some dried chiles, passion fruit, and hibiscus, working with small producers in Mexico. Chef Gerson founded Dough in 2010 as a celebration of handcrafted doughnuts, which the Dough team makes in small batches throughout the day. With locations in Brooklyn, the Flatiron District, and food hall kiosks, Dough’s signature varieties and flavors are inspired by Latin American culture and ingredients. Fany Gerson has been featured in The New York Times, Gourmet, Fine Cooking, Saveur, Daily Candy, and New York, among other media outlets. In addition to writing My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats—which was nominated for a 2011 James Beard Award for Best Baking and Pastry Cookbook—she is also the author of Paletas: Authentic Recipes for Mexican Ice Pops, Shaved Ice & Aguas Frescas as well as Mexican Ice Cream: Beloved Recipes and Stories.
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
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Campus Menus of Change: Seafood BY: Alex Talbot, Editor in Chief
One principle of Menu’s of Change is certainly more controversial than the others. While sound in health advice, it has cultural and environmental impacts. In fact, even taking part in this principle could expose customers to dangerous metals in their diet. I’m talking about Fish.
On one hand, fish is a nutrient-dense option that’s not only low in bad fats but high in Omega oils. Science found moderate evidence that suggests eating food with omegas helps protect against cardiovascular disease. In contrast, there is little to no evidence to support omega supplements. Long story shorteating fish is good. Fish also contains also contains fantastic micronutrients. Selenium, iodine, and even zinc can be found in our fishy friends. When pushing back dairy and meat to supporting roles, fish steps in to fill the nutrient gaps in the human diet. Fish also provides a kosher source of gelatin to help expand the possibilities of catering to individuals with dietary restrictions. While this is all great, sustainability also extends past ourselves. True sustainability is a triangle. The three points include economy, environment, and social equity. To be truly sustainable an item must be economically viable, or make cost sense. The item must also have a minimal or
beneficial impact on the environment. Last but not least, it must provide some sort of value to the social system. This includes physical benefits as well as cultural benefits. The nutrient benefits of fish fit into part of the social equity point. After all, it’s really good for the human body-one checkbox marked. The next test under social equity is a cultural check. A quick search reveals that Americans don’t eat fish or seafood. While it’s on the rise, it’s not a popular option. This could be contributed to diets being a learned cultural phenomenon. A quick Google search reveals people looking for “what kind of fish doesn’t taste fishy” or asking “why can’t I eat fish”. It’s not that people don’t want to eat fish, they just don’t know how. This is just another example of nutritional illiteracy. Doctors and Physicians on Bernie Sanders’ Medicare for All town hall said that they try to combat medical problems by providing fresh produce and recipes to compliment those produce. The goal for them was preventative care through dietary control. Adding fish to the conversation is another example of nutritional illiteracy. The cultural box under social equity can’t be checked. One day it could be. Chefs could dedicate one day a month to highlight a food to educate the public on it. While
it could be visiting a school and talking to students, it could also be hosting a specialty wine dinner. The next side of the pyramid to examine is the environmental point. With the current effect of climate change and overfishing, the world is at a fragile point in ecological history. Popular fishes, like salmon or tuna, are overfished. Other fish, like tilapia, can be farmed. However, with the increase in farming, it increases the negative byproducts that agricultural processes naturally have. This puts chefs at a dilemma. Do chefs increase fish intake, while having an environmental impact? Or do chefs cut back on fish creating a less nutrient friendly menu?
is environmentally sustainable. In the same case with the social point, the environment point of the triangle can’t be checked. There are solutions though, like eating Asian carp instead of catfish. As with Chef Bun Lai, chefs have the opportunity to solve this problem. The final point of the pyramid is economics. Tilapia is cheap. Catfish, while relatively regional, is cheap. Salmon and red snapper are more expensive. Currently, Asian carp are not fetching the market price to en-
courage more fishermen to catch the fish. It’s also difficult to transport fish that the public is aware of to all areas of the country. Certain popular fish, like salmon, is going to be more difficult to get in Oklahoma than fish along the coastal cities. The economic point of the pyramid can be checked off depending on the fish bought. Is fish sustainable? The answer is not right now. It could be. If chefs truly embrace the cultural and environmental challenge, fish could be a sustainable source of food.
It’s about net impact. Another problem facing certain areas is invasive species. Back in 2017, Chef Bun Lai presented his concept of sustainable sushi at Vassar college. He talked about looking around in his environment and finding products that damaged the natural Connecticut environment. If humans have the ability to threaten other species, like salmon, why can’t we take that ability and focus it towards a problem? If we eat invasive fish species, then we can help moderate the problem and improve the environment. The same argument is used in deer and hog hunting. In this instance, the chef has found a seafood source that
The three elements of Stainability.
photo courtesy: www.ladstudios.com