Volume 32, No.11
THE
NEWSPAPER
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THE
In every profession, there is a standard of excellence, a feat worthy of recognition. For the food world, The James Beard Foundation Awards represent one of the highest honors that the industry has to offer. Hundreds are nominated to a myriad of categories, exemplifying the best of their respective fields. Cookbook authors and food show personalities are recognized alongside chefs and restaurateurs for their contributions to the advancement of the art of cuisine. 0While the awards are approaching quickly (the first recipients are to be announced on May 4th), we would like to take the opportunity to familiarize you with only some of the extraordinary nominees from a selection of categories. In advance, we congratulate the winners who have accomplished amazing feats in the name of food. For more nominee information and to view other awards, log-on to: jamesbeard.org.
Best New Restaurant
AQ - San Francisco, CA Owned by Executive Chef Mark Liberman, AQ is a Mediterranean restaurant that prides itself on its use of cutting edge cooking technologies and the seasonal produce of Northern California. AQ stands for “As Quoted” and is traditionally used on menus to denote fresh or specialty items. Fiola - Washington, D.C. Owned by Executive Chef Fabio Trabocchi, Fiola is a modern upscale trattoria with a heavy emphasis on mixology and degustation. The cocktail bar is manned by mixologist Jeff Faile. Isa - New York City, NY Owned by Executive founder Chef Luke Sung, Isa is a California-French fusion restaurant with a wide range of signature seafood dishes. Next - Chicago, IL Owned by Executive Chef Grant Achatz, Next is a restaurant focusing on a rotational set of themes such as “Paris: 1906” and “Childhood” instead of a given cuisine. Next has also pioneered a ticketing system of seating as opposed to the reservation system.
CULINARY CULTURE
ON CAMPUS
CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1 9 7 9
BY: JARED VALBURG, AOS Culinary, Graphic Designer themed establishment. Outstanding Restaurateur Outstanding Restaurant Bruce Bromberg and Eric Bromberg Blue Ribbon Restaurants Balthazar - New York, NY New York City, NY Tom Douglas Blue Hill - New York, NY Tom Douglas Restaurants Seattle, WA Boulevard - San Francisco, CA Piero Selvaggio Valentino Restaurant Group Highlands Bar and Grill - Birmingham, AL Santa Monica, CA Caroline Styne Vetri - Philadelphia, PA Lucques/A.O.C./Tavern Outstanding Chef Los Angeles, CA David Chang - Momokuku Phil Suarez New York, NY Suarez Restaurant Group David Chang is the Chef and owner of the Momofuku New York City, NY restaurant group and was listed in the 2010 TIME Rising Star Chef of the Year Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People, for “reinventing Dave Beran the casual restaurant and changing the game.” Next Gary Danko - Restaurant Gary Danko Chicago, IL Having worked under Grant Achatz at Alinea for five San Francisco, CA years, Chef Dave Beran has taken charge of the cuisine A CIA graduate and the former Executive Chef of The Dining Room at the San Francisco Ritz-Carlton. Winner of Next, Achatz’s newest restaurant. of the 1995 James Beard “Best Chef-California,” 2000 James Beard “Best New Restaurant,” and nominated Daniel Bowien for the 2002 James Beard “Outstanding Chef.” Mission Chinese Food San Francisco, CA The recipient of numerous food and wine awards Daniel Humm- Eleven Madison Park from such names as the San Francisco Chronicle and New York City, NY Zagat, Chef Daniel Bowien is launching his second The head Chef of Eleven Madison Park and recipient of restaurant, another Mission Chinese Food in New York the 2005 Food and Wine “Best New Chef,” Chef Daniel Humm has worked with Harold McGee and Hervé City, NY. This to develop his own unique style of cooking. Thomas McNaughton Paul Kahan - Blackbird flour + water Chicago, IL San Francisco, CA Chef Paul Kahan is the Chicago-based owner of Founder and head Chef of the pizza and pasta Blackbird, Avec, the Publican, and Big Star restaurants. restaurant flour + water, Chef Thomas McNaughton He is the recipient of a nomination for the 2007 James is looking to open two new restaurants before the end Beard “Outstanding Chef” award. of the year, a delicatessen and a northern California
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Editorial
LA PAPILLOTE
From the Editor’s Desk
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
May 4th, 2012
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Giulianna L. Galiano
LAYOUT EDITOR
Jacqueline Palmer
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Sue Haug
CONTRIBUTORS Chef Freddy Brash Nicole Cassarino Dan Castro Anna Frost Casey Jankoski Eric Jeffay Eric Jenkins Liza Kassim Heather Kolakowski Frank Leake
Blayre Miller Michael Osborne Jacqueline Palmer Ona Peck Stacia Sliger Ken Turow Jared Valburg Amie Valpone Christine Wendland Nicole Vincent
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
The OCD Journalist that I am, I had planned to record a whole notepad full of observations and remarks from my lunch at Stone Barns Center at Blue Hill Farm (which in fact, I did). Unfortunately, I have misplaced that notepad, probably to my benefit. For it is the sheer memory of that lovely Sunday afternoon that I will never forget, no notes necessary. Why did I choose to go to Blue Hill Farm for a weekend lunch? I know it may seem a bit random, but if you think about it, a meal at Blue Hill is the perfect way to celebrate a new beginning (spring harvest) and, coincidentally, Earth Day! You see, my very first article for La Papillote was about Blue Hill and their Harvest Fest. I was star stuck to see Dan Barber lingering around the farm and even more excited to submit my writing to the school’s newspaper about my experience at Stone Barns. Thankfully, my article was selected to be placed in the newspaper and since then, I have had the confidence to document and share my culinary journeys through these Editorials. Blue Hill Farm is not just an oasis of agriculture, my friends, it is the center of literal farm-to-table hospitality at its very best. Before even glancing at a menu, we were served sparkling wine at our table and greeted by our server, who explained how the menu of April 22nd was simply derived from what the farm had to offer that day. With no allergies declared, we were ready to anticipate everything and expect nothing. The pictures in center spread really don’t justify the beauty of the dishes. We selected the eight-course menu and a cheese pairing that was just delightful. Items rapidly came out of the kitchen. We enjoyed dishes such as Beet Yogurt, Dehydrated Vegetables, Coppa, Brioche “French Toast,” etc. If I described each and every detail of the food and all of the courses, I’d need ten more pages to simply explain the process of each handpicked item on the multiple plates (even the china itself was exquisite). I can tell you this though, most of the dishes consisted of seasoned vegetables and wholesome bites of pork which were hearty and satisfying when paired with wine and crafted tea. Thank you Blue Hill at Stone Barns for such an elaborate meal and outstanding service. This is THE END to my circle of writing for the newspaper, I couldn’t be any more proud of concluding it with the farm that I first wrote about so many issues ago. Stay tuned for the May 24th issue where I will introduce the new Editor-in -Chief, Miss Jocelynn Neri and say farewell. A presto!
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Giulianna Galiano, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net
Blue Hill 2009.
Scan To Visit Our Library on issuu.com/lapapillote.
Cheers!
Blue Hill 2012.
Giulianna L. Galiano
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LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Jacqueline Palmer (Layout Editor)
jumprun@live. com
Eric Jeffay (Copy Editor) EJ737745@ mycia.net
Blayre Miller (Copy Editor) BM680250@ mycia.net
Stacia Sliger (Photographer) samstacia@ yahoo.com
Jared Valburg (Graphic Designer) jv855331@ mycia.net
May 4, 2012
Culinary Culture
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BY:CHEF FREDDY BRASH, CIA Instructor One of the hardest jobs as a Chef Instructor here at The Culinary Institute is trying to engage the students and keep them interested in the subject being studied. 0When I taught Skill Development, Lunch Cookery, Cuisines of Americas or Cuisines of Asia, I found that being in the kitchen, we are active and spent our whole lives behind the stove. Therefore, the kitchen was quite familiar. Yet, put Freddy B. in a classroom with all eyes staring up front and he gets a little nervous. Even the best of teachers get nervous sometimes! 0So how do we get students more engaged? That is the question. 0Chefs are kinetic learners so action is the key word. Demonstrations are essential for us here at the CIA, but what happens if you are in the classroom? Visual aids are important, providing students with products and not solely a PowerPoint. 0Chefs love to taste and in order to become more engaged and this application is necessary, especially when we are teaching about food. 0I know that when I attend lectures, I get antsy after about twenty minutes. However, whenever the speaker shares a personal experience, I become intrigued since they aren’t reading from a piece of paper. It is important to give whoever is instructing
Photo By: moleculargastronomybooks.com
your undivided attention. 0I know that growing up, I wasn’t very interested in school. You’d find me outside camping, fishing and
hiking. That’s where I was most comfortable. Then of course, when I started washing dishes and cooking on the line at the beginning of my career, I loved how the energy meshed with learning in a hands-on environment. I wanted to go to work all the time. This career was for me! 0We just had one of the greatest contributor’s to kitchen science speak at school, Harold McGee. It was so nice to see that recreation center filled up with students. I bet he was a bit nervous just like we all get! We all gave him our undivided attention and he gave us his best shot. It was amazing hearing about Careme cooking natural flavors and Escoffier who was the first Chef to organize the brigade system in the kitchen. We need to have lectures to inform us of past, present and future cuisines. 0So future chefs... engage, participate and take responsibility in your education. I promise you that we as teachers will do our best to come to class prepared and deliver you with insightful messages. Just remember, this is a two way street. It’s a relationship whether we are into it or not. The more we are open and willing to hear the message, the more the journey becomes interesting and fulfilling, especially when we can relate to one another.
FROM EXTERN MANUAL OF: CHRISTINE WENDLAND, AOS Culinary
Photo By: whatsgabycooking.com
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On Campus
When choosing a mentor or when contemplating becoming a mentor, there is no fast track model and no “one size fits all.” This choice is part of the learning curve and a significant part of the mentee’s and mentor’s lifelong commitment to learning. 0The first decision to be made for yourself, as a student learning about a new industry and profession, is not whether or not you need a mentor. This is already set in stone- you do need a mentor. The key here is in timing and deciding when the best time to connect with a potential mentor is. Everyone has an opinion on mentoring and the proverbial roles of the mentor and mentee, respectively. Listen to those opinions, but the decision is ultimately yours. Test the waters on your newfound teaching/learning tool through mentoring. If the fit seems right, it most likely is, so go with it. And if things don’t go as planned, find another mentor. There is certainly nothing wrong with modifying your plan on your mentoring relationship. Just make sure to have a plan! 0A mentor should be someone who can help you connect classroom experiences with that of the real world. Mentors should provide direction and guidance based upon their own professional experiences. They also provide the necessary expertise to less experienced individuals to help them advance their careers, enhance their education and build their networks. 0What we desire of students is taught and learned by example; this is the job of the teacher, mentor and coach. A mentor can bring new opportunities to the table for each individual. It is the job of each student to pick the brain of his or her mentor, absorb the information and the practice. A mentor will help you assess your plans while learning how to set goals and objectives. 0Find out what your mentor hasn’t told you. Is he leaving you wanting more? There should be challenging moments and surprises with your learning
LA PAPILLOTE
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experiences. Don’t leave the learning table hungry. Engage your teachers, mentors and coaches. These people truly are your key to life long learning. 0It is essential for the mentee and the potential mentor to learn about each other. The process can begin by email, by phone, via Skype etc. There should be a question and answer exchange soon afterwards to determine goals and expectations of the mentor/ mentee. The success of this relationship is all about communication and establishing the core values necessary for you to succeed. It is about establishing and living these core values, which include: honesty, integrity, ethics, striving for excellence, and respect. Above all, never compromise. This is a lesson that former student, now Chef Educator, Chef Lance
BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary The Concept of Diversity encompasses Foodservice & Hospitality Alliance (MFHA) 9:30pm – 11:00pm: Spoken Soul – A tribute acceptance and respect. It is an understanding that each individual is unique. These qualities can be to Damien “Juice” Williams: Renaissance Lounge along the dimensions of race, ethnicity, gender, sexual (Spoken Word, Open Mic and Refreshments). Come orientation, socio-economic status, age, physical out and express yourself on the open stage or just listen abilities, religious beliefs, political beliefs, or other to some great poetry, singing, jokes and music. Saturday May 19th – 11:00am – 2:00pm: Street ideologies. It is the exploration of these differences in a safe, positive and nurturing environment. Diversity Food Lunch/Block Party – Come taste good food and is about understanding each other and moving beyond beverages made by the diverse clubs that we have on simple tolerance to embracing and celebrating the campus. There will be games, raffles and activities! Saturday & Sunday May 19th & 20th – 9am rich dimensions contained within each individual. th th th On May 18 , 19 and 20 2012, The Word to 4pm: Walk Around the World Fusion Cooking Poetry Club will be hosting A Taste of the CIA: Competition (Stages One & Two Saturday, Stage World Diversity Festival, to celebrate all of the Three Sunday) Grand prize $1000.00. This is not diverse cultures that we have on campus, by holding your ordinary Cook-off… three stages, two days and different events during the weekend. Our Mission $1000 dollars. Are you up for the challenge? Mark your calendar and come to any or all events statement is: Understanding and developing a more and share in the diversity that is The Culinary Institute diverse nation through food…..One plate at a time! of America. The schedule of events to be held is: Diversity Statement – Respect for diversity is one Friday May 18th – 1pm – 3pm: Speaker: Gerry Fernandez – President & Founder of The Multicultural of the five core values that guide the college. We take great pride in the fact that we continuously embrace diversity throughout the entire campus community, and recognize that it is critical to all our efforts. Here at the CIA, we look to promote a campus environment where all people are valued for their contributions and provided with the opportunity to learn and advance in their employment and educational pursuits. Facilitating diversity – promoting and embracing it – can only lead to good things.
Nitahra learned over a decade ago from me, while a student in my class. He learned how to not accept mediocrity. I inspired Lance and he in turn continues to inspire me, so many years later, as I continue my lifelong commitment and vigil to teach and learn. What gives me the strength and need to continue this vigil, 22 years into my teaching career and 40 years into my career as a Chef, is mentoring. I was mentored throughout my life by the ultimate mentor, Joe Amendola. Since his passing I have reached out to other Chefs; Andre Soltner, Hartmutt Handke, Rene Marquis, Stafford DeCambra, Nora Galdiano and Lance Nitahara (Lance and Nora are my former students.) These Chefs are my friends and mentors. My lifetime commitment to learning and being a mentee enables me to continue growing as a mentor and to provide an expanded base of professional contacts for those that I mentor. Seek out a mentor; learn to make wise choices, approach time with a sense of urgency…this list goes on and on. It is all about the journey. In conclusion, my teaching philosophy tells my story best: I believe ideally that education is a process to facilitate lifelong learning and teaching, and it is a search for wisdom and knowledge that fosters the professional and personal development of all participants. My credo… “The Master whose student does not surpass him has failed.” -Leonardo da Vinci Your journey is about to begin, look forward and never back. *Please contact Marcy MacInnes in Learning Srategies Center, ext.1283, m_macinn@culinary.edu if you are interested in securing a mentor.
BY: ONA PECK, Recreation and Athletics Intern Intramurals 2012 Intramural Softball has started. Six teams (Master Batters, CIA Staff, The Rat Pack, 2Balls1Strike, Los Bondoleros, Sploof) are participating in either the AM or PM league schedule. Currently, the CIA Staff team with a 2-0 record leads the PM league and 2Balls1Strike leads the AM league with a 2-0 record. On Sunday, May 6th, an extramural Hudson Valley Softball Classics match will be hosted by the CIA. Schools such as Marist, New Paltz and Mount Saint Mary’s will be participating. Marist vs. New Paltz at 12:30pm & MSMC vs. CIA at 2pm. The championship game will be at 3:30pm. Intercollegiate The Steels Intercollegiate Tennis team currently has a 4-1 record going into the HVMAC Championship Tournament at U.S. National Tennis Center (Queens, NY) on Saturday, May 5th, 2012. Team captain, Kevin Bender, was named, “Player of the Week” on April 23rd. He compiled a perfect 4-0 week at #1 singles and #1 doubles leading the Steels to a par of conference victories over Sarah Lawrence and St. Joseph’s College. For the only two home matches on Saturday, April 28th and Sunday April 29th played at Dutchess Racquet Club, the Steels defeated Webb Institute 9-0 & Pratt Institute 8-1. A great deal of the weekend’s success was contributed to the wins in the singles matches. Matt Jensen on Saturday played for the first time all season as the number two man and defeated the difficult Webb Institute player. On Sunday, the C.I.A. tennis win was brought forward by number four C.I.A. singles player, Pierre Mewissen, who was down 0-7 and came back to win 10-9 after a tiebreaker game (7-5). CJ Miller also won his singles match 10-9 after his tie-breaker game (7-5). Best of luck to the CIA Steels tennis team as they get ready for their HVMAC Championship Tournament on Saturday, May 5th.
May 4, 2012
Recently, I have noticed a growing trend among our graduates of the Bachelor’s Degree program: pursuing a career in the front-of-the-house. Whereas years ago, many of our graduates went directly into the kitchen, there has been a steady shift towards more direct management positions immediately following graduation. And many opportunities for entry level managers remain in the front of house. To that point, the Service and Hospitality Management faculty have been creating more electives for the BPS program to focus on the information and skills that employers look for in our graduates that make them strong candidates to be managers in the front of house. One such new elective is the Advanced Principles of Service Management in Hospitality to be offered starting in June 2012. 0While the table service classes within the AOS program build a good solid foundation of the practical hands-on application of service and hospitality related concepts, this new elective for the Bachelor’s program is an excellent capstone theory overview of the philosophical and practical models of hospitality and service delivery systems in operations management. Designed as almost a bridge to further education (if you are looking towards pursuing a Master’s Degree) or a launching point for a management position, this course will analyze the service delivery system from the conceptual development stages to the final measurement of guest satisfaction. Through written reflections designed to incorporate your own hospitality-related experiences and group case studies to review profitability practices of successful businesses, this course will encourage discussion, analysis of service cultures and development of your own management leadership skills. 0When I graduated from the CIA, I had the opportunity to work as an Assistant Manager in Food and Beverage with the Four Seasons Hotel Company in Washington, D.C. The concepts and theories discussed in this course are exactly the challenges that I faced as a “fresh out of school” entry level manager: how to train staff in hospitable service, how to communicate a strong hospitality focused culture, how to motivate my employees (many of whom were much older than me), how to solicit guest feedback, and even more importantly, how to fix a service failure quickly and effectively. With these concepts in mind, Advanced Principles of Service Management in Hospitality is a course that will give you an advantage when pursuing a front of house management career.
ON CAMPUS
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BY: NICOLE CASSARINO, AOS Culinary Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking, was lava cake and urged the audience to think about how on campus on April 23rd to speak about the science of revolutionary it was at the time. “Up until that time, cooking in the past and present. Dr. Chris Loss, the a cake was a cake and a sauce was a sauce”, McGee Director of Menu Research and Development at the mentioned. He explained that Michel Bras, the CIA, introduced Harold McGee as a prize winning Chef who invented the renegade dessert, was also author and graduate of Yale University and California an innovator in the savory world. Bras invented the Tech. Regardless of his accolades, McGee’s made salad known as “Gargillou” in 1980. This salad, whose a humble statement about how jealous he was of all ingredients changed everyday depending on what of the culinary students in the audience as they were local produce was optimal for foraging and consuming all studying at a time in which the culinary world that morning, was a vital part of the “farm-to-table” is becoming increasingly influenced by scientific movement, which is popular today. research. 0Mr. McGee concluded his lecture with a brief 0McGee began his talk on the history of science explanation of culinary current events. He began by in the kitchen with a topic about which every college speaking of the highly regarded authority on modernist student is passionate: ice cream. He explained that cuisine, Chef Ferran Adria of elBulli. Ferran’s philosopy before it was discovered in the 18th century, salt would was based on the advice of a contemporary chef and lower the freezing point of ice cream base. Ice cream was very simple; be creative. McGee explained that could only be made in very cold climates. McGee while this advice was not very complex, Adria took mentioned some of the most familiar figures in both it to heart, creating dishes that were unidentifiable science and cooking before he added an anecdote when placed in front of the guest to add the element about the importance of challenging the teachings of of surprise to the meal. He, along with Heston chefs and scientists. McGee spoke of a scientist named Blumenthal of The Fat Duck in England, opened Liebig who in 1845 taught that meat should be seared test kitchens to create meals from scratch in ways to seal in its juices. This has been proven to be untrue no chef had ever imagined before. McGee showed but was followed for many years. McGee felt that the audience a food science blog from Scandinavia in order to get the most out our education, culinary and explained that many food publications are now students must challenge their chefs when something looking for research from chefs rather than scientists seems wrong. “Forget about scientists and keep your who, McGee explained, look at food in a test tube focus on the scientific method,” McGee advised. rather than a frying pan. 0McGee began his abridged lecture about the 0Harold McGee’s ability to summarize over two science of cooking by mentioning the haute cuisine hundred years of science and cooking in an hour is of chefs like Escoffier and Careme. In his own time, undoubtedly what helped him become an authority Careme was praised for the clarity of his food and his on food science. It was hard to believe him when success as a modernist chef. Escoffier also used science he admitted that his book was derided at first by in his cooking as most of the recipes he included in many chefs because they distrusted him, feeling that La Guide Culinaire, where meals created by Careme their experience made them true experts. McGee were tested in Escoffier’s kitchen and reinvented to mentioned that his book was only as successful as serve in the restaurants of Paris. it was because curious students wrote to him when 0Over one-hundred years after Careme and they disagreed with something they learned in school. Escoffier were inventing in the kitchen, the culinary McGee admitted that his first fans were students and, arts were still anything but static. Harold McGee after hearing him speak, it is doubtful that this will mentioned the commonplace yet popular molten ever change.
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
BY: ANNA FROST, AOS Baking and Pastry Food leaves impressions in our minds and palates, often pleasantly connecting us to our family heritage, recalling a treasured memory, or giving us a moment of comfort after a trying day. Almost every American can identify with the soothing qualities of mom’s macaroni and cheese, whether it is Kraft or homemade; the healing powers of chicken noodle soup; the heart mending abilities of a rich, moist chocolate cake. These foods nourish not just the body, but the soul, returning bits of our sanity captured from our crazy lives by the world. American comfort foods are typically the things that we constantly crave and which enter our thoughts when we are hungry, as they are familiar to our lives and culture. However, it is unlikely that a person in India searches for a heaping plate of macaroni and cheese or meatloaf and mashed potatoes. While we may learn to prepare dishes from another culture, we often miss the relationship between the people and the food, which is just as important as the recipe if we truly aim to study the cuisine. Assuming that the few items commonly heard of in our country are the main foods eaten in other countries would be ignorant, lazy and honestly, pretty boring. Obviously (most) Americans do not exist on macaroni and cheese and chocolate cake alone, so why do we imagine the Japanese solely eating sushi, or the Scottish daily downing haggis? As culinarians with a burning passion for all things food, we should not limit ourselves to stereotypes, but instead embark on an eye-opening and delicious adventure onto another country’s plate. Instead of looking at the high-end or the cliché, we should journey into the kitchens of moms across the globe to find the food that they hold near and dear. In other words, find their “mac and cheese”. If you travel to Lebanon, a small country on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, sitting between Syria and Israel, you would have to try hard not to come across dolma. Common in many of the surrounding Middle Eastern countries, with endless variation, dolma in its simplest form consists of lamb, rice and grape leaves. Many in America may find eating grape leaves odd but those who take the chance will undoubtingly be rewarded. The grape leaves are stuffed with spiced ground lamb and rice, rolled up tightly and dropped in a pot of water until it boils. The heat is then lowered and the dolma continues to cook until the meat is done all the way through. Once finished, dolma is enjoyed hot, often dipped in plain yogurt to give a temperature
Chef Schneller explains the “Snout to Tail” concept.
and flavor contrast. Of course, this is not the only way dolma are prepared; one vegetarian variation is even simpler and just as delicious. Instead of cooking the dolma whole, rice is cooked and cooled ahead of time, and then snugly rolled in grape leaves. It is served cold, often as an appetizer.
The classic Macaroni and Cheese. Photo By: southernplate.com
0Next stop, just a little over to the east, is a country that brings to mind images of elephants, jeweled bangles, saris and aromatic spices: India. Depending on the part of the USA one hails from, your familiarity with Indian food could range from frequently consumed to a far and distant cuisine. If you happen to reside in the latter category, it would be greatly to your benefit to quickly introduce yourself to this fantastically flavorful cuisine, at least in the writer’s humble opinion. The streets of India offer an excellent starting point, and coincidentally, the fare of the market stands often is one in the same with the comfort foods desired by those raised with the cuisine. Deep-frying always adds an extra factor of desirability to a food, no matter the culture in question, so it is no surprise that samosas, fried pastry dough stuffed with potato, are quite popular in India. Often served as an appetizer or a mid-day snack, samosas are fairly easy to make from scratch, and completely worth the effort. First, a simple pastry dough is made consisting of flour, salt, oil and water. For the filling, potatoes are boiled, diced and sautéed with onions,
With Chef Schneller & Special Guest Bryan Mayer Head Butcher at Fleicher’s
Butcher Bryan Mayer demonstrates a left hand technique.
Bryan Mayer discusses uses for the hind quarter, hock and leg.
All Photos By: STACIA SLIGER, AOS Baking and Pastry, Photographer
peas, ginger, garlic, coriander, garam, masala, and cumin. The dough is rolled into small rounds, which are cut in half to make cone shapes, then stuffed with a small amount of the potato filling and sealed with water. To finish, they are fried in a pan filled with about two inches of oil. They should be golden brown and crisp! If you should crave something sweet after all of those samosas you just ate, the streets of India do not leave you wanting. Kulfi, a milk-based frozen treat, quite similar to ice cream, takes away some of the New Dehli summer heat while providing your taste buds with flavors of nuts and saffron. While it may be flavored differently, there is little doubt that ice cream might just be the ultimate universal comfort food. Traditionally, kulfi is made by stirring milk and sugar over low heat until it reduces by half. Then, you add ground nuts, such as pistachios, almonds, cashews and spices. It is poured into molds, like small cups, which are submerged in ice and salt. This rather slow freezing process results in a smooth mouth feel, characteristic of kulfi. However in our busy modern world, this method often takes too much precious time. Upon researching kulfi, many blogs of Indian women cooking in America use a shortcut recipe, preventing one from standing in front of a stove for a prolonged period of time. In this quick kulfi method, heavy whipping cream, sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk are whisked together with Cool Whip. Cardamom seeds, saffron and sugar are ground with a mortar and pestle until fine. Fold the spices and sugars into the milk mixture, along with the ground nuts of your choice, and pour into a mold. Molds can be as simple as small plastic cups, a popsicle mold, or as creative as silicon ice cube molds. The kulfi is placed in the freezer for anywhere between 6 hours to overnight, then enjoyed alone, or with toppings such as chopped nuts or falooda, chilled vermicelli noodles soaked in rose water. 0A taste of the Far East does not require a far trip, with a quick Google recipe search and an adventurous spirit, it can be as close as your kitchen. While a longing for home may have many of us reaching for the box of Kraft macaroni and cheese, in search of juicy pot roast, or staring at the bottom of a Ben & Jerry’s pint, consider trying a food which comforts the souls of another culture for change, you might find yourself pleasantly surprised and satisfied.
Bryan Mayer shows how to de-bone the ham portion.
Demo on where to spilt the ribs to get the highest yield and the importance of fat content.
May 4, 2012
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These sweet buns made for the perfect amuse. Our table was obsessed and could have popped more into our mouths if given the chance! The patty was made up of ramps. Can you say, umami? Photo By: Giulianna Galiano
The infamous “Parsnip Steak” cooked to perfection. The braised red cabbage slaw was sweet and tangy, a perfect condiment for a fried egg and vegetables. Photo By: Giulianna Galiano
Blue Hill Farm’s “Spring Salad” consisting of fresh herbs, mushrooms, greens, edible flowers and a bacon vinaigrette that marinated the whole dish. Photo By: Giulianna Galiano
This was by far my favorite dish. Veal cheeks on a bed of pasta emulsified with egg yolk and balsamic vinegar on the side. The best part- the egg yolk was cured and shaved over the pasta! Well done! Photo By: Giulianna Galiano
Anton Plaza made for the perfect location on a windy, sunny Sunday afternoon for the April 29th 2nd Annual Pizza Cook-Off. Competitors provided judges with pizza flare such as: caponata, Indian spices, vegetables, sausage, caramelized onions, ricotta, applewood smoked sausage, broccoli rabe and deep-dish Chicago-style ingredients. These were just the toppings! Many teams went above and beyond providing students and guests with fried mozzarella, stuffed zucchini, bruschetta, bellinis, lemonade, etc. Along with balloons, a photo booth, a Pizza Thrower, Saputo cheese, Roland Balsamic Vinegar and a $50 raffle, the combination of the Italian music and food made for a wonderful event. Sponsored By: Saputo Cheese and Roland Foods.
Green apple dessert with the most refreshing ginger sorbet, thinly shaved fennel and Blue Hill honey. Photo By: Giulianna Galiano
Chef McCue, Professor Kossmann and Chef Perillo were amongst the judges of the competition. The 2012 Pizza Cook-Off Winners! “Pizzaioli Belli” members Vivianna Depole, “Starting Squad” received 3rd place with Christina D’Angelo, Frankie King and Vergel Stemm. members: Brittany Ronan, Daniel Moreno, Robert Chambers and Albert Greaves.
Chicago Deep Dish pizza got 2nd place. “Assasasin’s Special” team: Scarlet Markgraf, KateLynn Donning, Eric Hodge and Eric Jenkins.
Food & LA PAPILLOTE
8
BY: BLAYRE MILLER, BPS Baking and Pastry, Copy Editor Well CIA, it’s been quite a ride…Seriously, I’ve put a lot of miles on my little blue car for all of you (with love, of course)! For the past year you’ve traveled with me through the City and the Valley, exploring all of the unique and hidden places that Pough-town has to offer (and beyond). Sadly, this will be my last HHV column. Lucky for you, I won’t be going very far! I will still be editing away all of the amazing articles you send us, as well as fervently blogging for our CIA Blog: Our Life of Food, and my own blog, (crumbcoat.wordpress.com). So, after all of that mushy stuff, how about one more HHV? Let me preface this charming little place with three words: bread, love, and dulce de leche (ok, that was more like six words, but you get my gist).
1582 Route 9, Dutchess Plaza Wappingers Falls, NY 12590
isn’t your thing, they also have a fried chicken cutlet, empanadas, roasted chicken, or roasted pork, along with many daily specials (when I visited, they had a seafood soup with rice on special which sounded pretty tantalizing to me). When it came time for dessert, I had to take a few minutes to figure out what I wanted to try from their huge selection! I knew that I needed to leave with one of their Chilean pastries involving Dulce de Lece (sweetened condensed milk that has been cooked down until a syrupy caramel-like consistency is reached). They are famous for their Alfajor, which is a sandwich of two sweet cookies and some dulce in the middle, but what caught my eye was a small round
Fish and rice. Simplicity at its best! Photo By: Blayre Miller
Vanilla sponge cake= heaven! Photo By: Blayre Miller
0Los Hornitos Brick Oven Bakery is just a twentyminute drive down Route 9, in Wappingers Falls. I heard about Los Hornitos from our lovely Editor Giulianna and had to check it out after her description of their famous steak sandwich. 0The bakery specializes in freshly-baked bread and Chilean-style pastries, as well as two pastry cases stocked full of cannoli, fruit tarts, cheesecakes, chocolate mousse cakes and so much more. This eatery got its namesake from the Chilean restaurant where owners Hector and Monica Lorca met and fell in love. You can feel this love all over the bakery. It is clear that this is a family place; during the entire time I spent there, different locals and families shuffled in, happily greeted the girls behind
When I think of flowers, I associate them with beautiful
There are many different types of edible flowers. Photo By:eattheweeds.com
gardens or romantic gestures. As flowers are part of nature, we know that they can be edible. The question is: which ones are culinary friendly? 0Flowers come out at the later stages of plant growth. Usually, we can find them in herbs and vegetables. In product knowledge class, I learned that some fruits or vegetables lose their edible characteristic when they become a flower. Take the artichoke, for example. After removing its prickly and fibrous skin, we split it in half and see something fuzzy in the middle that chef-instructors tell us to remove. This part that is removed is in fact a flower, in its early stages.
the counter, and had lively conversation while their usual orders were prepared. It was a treat to see such a successful family business in action. 0As far as the food is concerned, I knew exactly what I wanted: the Sirloin Steak club. It is modeled off of the traditional Chilean “churrasco” sandwich, which usually comes served with mayo, tomato, cheese and avocado on a toasted bun. Let me tell you, this sandwich was like eating the most delicious cheesesteak you’ve ever had, but with a Chilean twist! The thinly sliced steak, cheese and mayo melted perfectly together. It complimented by the cool tomato, fresh avocado and a side of their spicy salsa (not to mention the fresh bread)! Los Hornitos also offers several other kinds of sandwiches, including a Cuban, or a Spiced Roasted Pork Loin, all served on their freshly baked rolls. 0If you are looking for more of an entrée-style option, you can choose one of their “Everyday Meals”, which is served with rice, and choice of beans or salad. Brandon chose this route and ordered their beer-battered chicken-fried fish filet, a special that day, which came with roasted potatoes, rice and fresh tomatoes with cilantro for only $8.99. He thoroughly enjoyed the crispy and flaky fish and piled some of that spicy salsa I mentioned earlier on his rice. If fish
The infamous steak sandwich! Photo By: Blayre Miller
cake covered in chopped nuts. Upon asking, the girl told me that it was vanilla sponge cake layered with dulce de lece and topped with the nuts…I was sold, and the creamy dulce made it so worth it! The perfect ending to a delicious meal. All in all, Los Hornitos was the happy ending to my year with HHV column! I hope my writing has inspired you to seek out the best food you can find without leaving a hole in your pocket! Thank you for reading, eating, and being so wonderfully awesome!
-Blayre
0S o m e t i m e s , f lavonoids, flowers can be served which help in their original form. prevent heart During my externship disease and at John’s Island Club cancer. They in Vero Beach, Chef also contain John Farnsworth caffeine and was an avid fan of teanine, which using flowers in affects the brain his dishes, mostly and heightens orchids (coming from mental alertness. memory). Though I In addition to got to try an orchid these teas, other during my spare time, liquid products whose petals had come from mellow fragrance and flowers as well, mild sweetness, I did such as rose not understand the scented water intention of putting Edible flowers can be applied on a number of dishes such as this one. (which we used Photo By:creativeinlondon.blogspot.com them on the plate. in Cuisines of Perhaps it was to Asias class to make emphasize that the diners were in the tropical part Rose Lhassi, a yogurt drink from India) and orange of the world, or to bring some aesthetic appeal to the blossom water, distilled from bitter orange blossoms. plate that Chef chose to include them. Another flower When combined with cumin, it creates a pleasing that was used in the facility was Nasturtium, which note on the palate, as these two flavors together are was applied to create a compound butter for a dish. common in Mediterranean Cuisine. Nasturtium is a durable flower, giving it a long shelf 0With the creativity of modern chefs, anything has life. With its sweet and peppery taste, the rationale for been deemed edible lately, from bugs (grasshoppers using this ingredient for a compound butter is sound. on sticks, etc) to paper. It might be from lack of 0Away from food, flowers are ubiquitous in drinks; experience eating out or cooking, but I have not most of them would be familiar to tea drinkers, such as seen too many flowers in their raw form utilized in the ones found in chamomile, lavender, jasmine and restaurants. May spring or this article inspire you to hibiscus teas. These teas even contain chemicals called cook with them, if you find the opportunity.
Beverage
May 4, 2012
FOOD & BEVERAGE
9
BY: Casey Jankoski, BPS Culinary
As the weather warms up, many of us reminisce of a simpler time. Waking up on a warm summer day, only to have our parents kick us out of the house when all we really wanted to do was watch cartoons in the air conditioning is certainly enjoyable. Many of us remember the low hum of a distant lawn mower and the smell of fresh cut grass. As the days wound down and the yard work was done, that meant beer time. The soft, refreshing hiss of a can opening kicked off the evening. Summer beers have come a long way from the standard can of Bud in the fridge. For those looking for a new, summery brew, we present the summer ale.
the idea of “Light Dinner Ales” common to England. These beers are traditionally light and flavorful. The beer is brewed with English barley malt. The hops are German and American. The beer is comprised of mostly malty flavor accompanied by a fresh sourdough aroma. This beer is very carbonated, which brings to the nose the bitter hop aromas. The beer itself has a great hop flavor that is reminiscent of sage, lemongrass and orange zest. The finish is crisp and clean. This beer is excellent for pairing with light lunch fair such as salads and quiches. It also pairs well with spicy food; I’m thinking of some spicy smoked ribs. Available for $1.89 a bottle. Heading down a little more south is Philadelphia with their Summer Love Ale from Victory Brewing Co. Relatively new to the Victory brew list, this past year this beer was created to promote Philadelphia, but after much success, they are releasing it to all 29 states where their beers are sold. This beer is a golden ale made with German and American hops. Aromatic on the palate from whole flower hops with a bright, lemony finish make this beer a very drinkable one. It is made with German hops, pale malts and water from the Brandywine creek. Available in May for
Assorted summer beers. Photo By: nymag.com
0If you are attached to the can, Dale’s Pale Ale from Oscar Blues Brewery is a major upgrade. Located in Lyons, Colorado, Oscar Blues was one of the first American craft brewers to utilize the can as packaging. In 2002, Dale’s Pale Ale was released. The success of this craft brew is helping convince beer lovers everywhere that great craft beer can come in a shiny, aluminum package. The beer is a copper color with a very thick head and comes in at 6.5% ABV with a rich aroma. This beer is hoppy, but not too bitter, coming in at 65 International Bittering Units. This beer can be described as coming in between American Pale Ale and Indian Pale Ale. It has a European flavor, but there is also a good amount of American malt, creating a very well balanced beer. These hops give off a great citrus flavor. This beer is available for $1.99 a can. Another summer beer from west of the Mississippi is Pyramid Brewery’s Apricot Ale. This is an unfiltered fruit beer bursting with fresh apricot aroma and taste. This beer has an ABV of 5.1% and has a hop rating of 2 on the Half-Time scale. It is made with 50% barley and 50% malted wheat. The hops are assertive but with a balance of bitter and sweet. This beer pairs well with appetizers, salads and desserts. This brand is priced at $2.19 a bottle. Moving to the east coast, New Yorkers love to savor their local summer ale from Brooklyn Brewery. The Brooklyn Summer Ale has and ABV of 4.5% and a hop rating of 2. This Ale has a bit more to it than other summer ales. The idea for this ale is based in
Nothing is more refreshing than a summer brew. Photo By: esquire.com
$2.09 a bottle. Way up north in Maine, to wrap up this delectable list of beer is, Smuttynose’s Summer Ale. This is a wheat ale that comes in at 5.2% ABV and a hop rating of 2. This beer is brewed with a blend of domestic and foreign wheat and barley malts. It is lightly hopped and is tangy, yet refreshing. This pairs perfectly with barbecue and picnic foods. Available for $1.89 a bottle. 0Summer ales may not be the most popular beer around, but when the temperature rises, these crisp and refreshing beers really do hit the spot. The only thing left is to find a pool and some sunshades and kickback to enjoy these fantastic beers, all made in America and affordable to boot. Author’s Note: All of these delicious beers are available at Half-Time and all of the prices are from their website.
Although home distillation was outlawed with the Prohibition Era, there are creative ways to personalize your spirits legally (and not blind people with a faulty batch of bathtub gin). Infusing liquors by adding herbs, spices, fruits, vegetables and even fat can result in a unique base for cocktails or a delicious drink on its own. With a little planning, you can make the most of summer’s ripe bounty and leave the neon-green margarita mix on the grocery store shelves all year round. Infusing works because the hydrogen-oxygen unit in alcohol behaves like the hydrogen-oxygen unit in water. Therefore, it bonds easily with sugar molecules. When infusing with fat, the flavor compounds bond with part of the alcohol molecule, while the insoluble fats themselves are left behind. 0Experimentation is the key to finding flavor combinations and levels of infusion that best suit your needs, whether it’s a batch of mango-raspberry rum for a summer cookout, or foie gras Grand Marnier for a special dinner. The beauty of infusing lies in the fact that it’s virtually a blank canvas - there’s no exact recipe to follow. There are, however, a few guidelines to ensure your libation is delicious and drinkable. First, clear liquors work best, although you can infuse darker liquors such as whiskey if you choose a complementary flavor (cherry, for example). Vodka is the stand-by spirit for infusing, but try tequila, white rum, or brandy for a twist. When shopping for your liquor, you don’t have to spend for the top-shelf brands, but you should get something of quality. Professor Miller (FOH American Bounty) reminded me that when choosing a liquor, “it’s like the preparation of any dish: you have to start with quality ingredients to get a quality product.” As such, choose the ingredients you will infuse with when they are at their ripest and most flavorful, but remember that bruises or blemishes are okay, since the produce will be discarded after infusing. The farmer’s market is a great place to find seasonal fruit and vegetables to remind you of spring when the temperatures drop. Homemade strawberry vodka made in the peak of summer could be just the thing to brighten a snowy February day. 0When preparing fruit or vegetables with which to infuse, wash them well and remove peels, stems, seeds, and anything bitter to the taste, as these will impart bitter or muddy flavors on the final product. Another factor to consider is that the length of time you infuse will depend on the flavor concentration and water content of your product. Strongly flavored herbs and teas, such as lavender and earl grey, should only infuse for twenty or thirty minutes, while blueberries can infuse for hours or even days. Ingredients with very high water content, such as cantaloupe or watermelon, will not impart a strong flavor even after a lengthy infusion. Starchy vegetables are also weak performers, although Professor Miller told me that he has used purple potatoes simply for the rich color they add. Some other delicious-sounding combinations he suggested are Grand Marnier and juniper berries, and cinnamon and cocoa nibs with Everclear. 0Infusing with fat is done through a process called “fat washing”, which is simpler than it sounds. The fat should be heated to liquid form, added to the liquor, stirred, and left to infuse at room temperature for 24-48 hours. The mix is then frozen, which causes the fats to separate and rise to the top of the liquid where they may be skimmed off. Bacon vodka is now practically commonplace, but imagine browned butter bourbon, duck fat with rye whiskey, or coconut oil with rum. 0After infusing, strain your spirits through a coffee filter or cheesecloth. Choose a clean glass container with a lid for your infusion, and store in a dark place for the best shelf life. Fat-based infusions should be stored in the refrigerator for no more than one month. Fruit, vegetable, and herb-based infusions can be kept indefinitely, although the flavor (floral notes in particular) will deteriorate over time. With all of these facts available, try mixing up your own liquor cabinet with some homemade infused spirits for the summer!
10
Pot Luck
LA PAPILLOTE
Executive Chef/Co-Owner, Mehtaphor and Graffiti
The Food Network’s Next Iron Chef runner-up in 2009, Chef Jehangir Mehta, is the Executive Chef/CoOwner of two New York City restaurants: Mehtaphor in Tribeca and Graffiti Food and Wine Bar in the East Village. Prior to opening his own establishments, Chef Mehta was the highly acclaimed Pastry Chef at some of the city’s finest restaurants. 0The Mumbai, India-born Chef’s culinary journey started when, much to the amusement of his family’s maids and cooks, the young Jehangir took an interest in the goings-on of the kitchen. After he voiced a desire to pursue a career in the culinary arts, his family put its full support behind him and sent him to The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Applying the foundation he had acquired at the Institute of Hotel Management, Catering, Technology, and Applied Nutrition in Mumbai, Chef Mehta thrived at the CIA, graduating in 1995. 0After his first job in 1996 at L’Absinthe in New
York, Chef Mehta landed a position at the Typhoon Brewery, where he worked as Pastry Chef to the brilliant James Chew of Vong fame. From there, it was a short-yet-logical jump to Jean-Georges in 1997. The following year, Jean-Georges Vongerichten selected him to open Mercer Kitchen, which quickly became one of New York’s hottest destinations. Chef Mehta next went to work with fellow CIA graduate Rocco DiSpirito ’86 at Union Pacific, and in 2001 joined Didier Virot in opening Virot. Then, as Pastry Chef of Compass, Chef Mehta cemented his reputation for creating unorthodox, intellectually driven desserts. During this time, he extended his partnership with Chef Virot, and in 2002 they opened Aix on the Upper West Side. The following year, Chef Mehta launched an event management business through partistry.com. In 2007, Chef Mehta opened Graffiti and released his first cookbook, Mantra: The Rules of Indulgence. Three years later, he opened Mehtaphor.
0In 2003, Chef Mehta started Candy Camp, offering fun-filled private cooking classes designed to encourage kids to appreciate the complex ingredients in food by preparing simple dishes. Chef Mehta’s passion for sharing his love of good food with children and helping them to eat healthy led him to expand on Candy Camp’s success with more programs, including Gastro Kids After School, which he runs at Mehtaphor, and The Kids Food Adventure with Chef Jehangir Mehta, a nationwide initiative with Whole Foods. Jehangir Mehta produces some of New York’s most exciting dishes, many of which have been featured in not only traditional food magazines but also Vogue and The New Yorker. Over the years, Chef Mehta has appeared on many national television programs, including The Martha Stewart Show, The Next Iron Chef, and Iron Chef America, where he competed against Iron Chef Morimoto in “Battle Coconut.”
STATE
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Christa Litrenta Marissa Zapatha Nicole Jabinigay Stephanie Milani Katherine Marineau Diana Ushay Kylie Colson Ashley Krauk Anna Cain
Culinary Arts Group #1 Taylor David Candace Stock Stephanie Skiados Zoe Lee Doae Kim Tilly Rose Morgan Leitert Garam Park Rachel Pearce Jake Peterson Gina Lupoli
Alex Rea Stephan Dushnick Brandon Stremmler Leonardo Bruno Sarrtos Mark Merrique Michael Echeveste Ken Leong Ian Toglia Maxx Lyman Andrew Worgul
Culinary Arts Group #2 Dame Lee Puja Sen Jordan Hampel Sam Vieira Jesse Szewczylk Jungjin Hong Mark Huxsoll
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SITE NAME Absinthe Arrabelle at Vaile Square Bouchon Bakery Bouchon Bakery Bread Alone Brookfield Country Club Little Nell Lucky’s Café Peninsula Grill Sea Island Stein Eriksen Lodge Top of the Hub Turning Stone Winvian
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Carey Lopez-Gomez Choi Hueter Fuller Cislo Gamache Ford Hernandez Balke Fiore Sholl Fisher Velazquez
Daniel Bergreen Ashleigh Evans Danielle Seipp Lindsey Connors Ashley Calhoun Taylor O’Keefe Alexandra Inkley Meghan Brophy
Culinary Arts Group #3 Tamara Grates Kristen Berlangero Jennifer Caruso Rachel Minroe Lauren Albright Allyson Ball Shannon Buckley Brian Mirtagh
Tori Alford Greg Elli Kathryn Austin Patrick Seibold Kyle Lyon Saige Brogdon-Cruz Meaghan Lolmangh Todd Catterton
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POT LUCK
May 4, 2012
Of the many traits I inherited from my father, my love of pie is the most dangerous. Thoughts of flaky buttery crusts and bright flavorful fillings have more than once led to a late night pie fest. 0In the vast world of pie, spanning cream pies, nut pies, fruit pies and more, my favorite is undoubtedly the berry pie. Brighter and lighter than cream pies and richer and juicer than apple pies, I think the good old-fashioned American blueberry pie is a thing of pure genius. 0With spring in bloom, and summer fast approaching, I began receiving what I knew had to be divine signs that I should bake a pie. First, were the strawberries on sale at Stop and Shop, small deep red
By: ERIC JEFFAY, bps Culinary, Copy Editor juicy berries for two dollars per pound. Then, came the sight of rhubarb growing outside my window behind Rosenthal Hall. Finally, as if God was slapping me in the face with a pie, I was directed to a recipe for Strawberry Rhubarb Pie on Stumbleupon. 0There was no turning back now. I had my mind set on a strawberry rhubarb pie. 0Returning to Stop and Shop, I purchased the bulk of my ingredients, only one thing was left- Rosenthal’s finest local rhubarb. I was careful to use scissors and leave enough of the stem intact so it would grow back. A quick wash, and I was ready to make my pies. 0For my first attempt I precooked the rhubarb, afraid it would not cook enough in the oven. This
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proved to be unnecessary, though, and I was left with a gummy pie with no visible traces of rhubarb. 0The recipe that follows was my second attempt, a much more successful venture. This time around I used raw rhubarb and strawberries, which were both cut in large chunks so they would stay intact. Tossed simply with sugar, vanilla and lemon zest as flavorings, the pies turned out almost virgin in their purity. 0A crumb topping provided a racy edge to the pie, but could be omitted if you’re a purist. To me, the nutty, slightly sweet crunch was a great texture and flavor contrast. 0I could think of probably nothing better to finish a summer picnic with…
Strawberry Rhubarb Crumb Pies (Adapted from Smitten Kitchen, with help from Meredith Walter)
The Hunger Games, a much-anticipated film from Lionsgate, premiered in theatres on March 23rd with more buzz than a busy butcher’s bone-saw. The movie is a violent, predictable, uncomfortable ride to a post-apocalyptic future. Despite some decided shortcomings in the plot line, it never gets boring. The movie marries parody with allegory and while it avoids being too preachy, it speaks volumes of the issues of the present with sound bites and visuals stolen from the set of any reality TV show and right out of yesterday’s headlines. The Hunger Games shows us what pop-culture looks like on a diet of steroids, Ritalin and acid. 0Director Gary Ross’s take on the Suzanne Collins trio of teen novels, may or may not stay true to the spirit of the books, but I can tell you this: Jennifer Lawrence’s portrayal of young heroine, Katniss Everdeen, is worth the price of admission. You may recall Lawrence from her Academy Award nominated performance in last year’s Indie standout, Winter’s Bone, a gritty and unhappy film in which she plays a courageous and desperate hillbilly determined to take responsibility for the sins of the adults in her life, always at grave personal risk. In The Hunger Games, she essentially reprises this role. She is once again a hillbilly girl facing impossible odds, motivated by maternal instinct and dependent on survival skills born from necessity and sharpened by a life in the woods. She is one of the two dozen randomly selected teens, just meat for the grinder, who must battle to the death in the ultimate television show for the grand prize- never going hungry again. The film is an impossible sounding mishmash of themes. Think Coal Miner’s Daughter blended into
Shirley Jackson’s, The Lottery. It’s The Running Man meets American Idol meets every teenage slasher movie made, except the teens are the slashers. It’s Gladiator, with costume design lifted from Nanny McPhee, meets a Mario Brothers X-Box game. It’s the fall of the Roman Empire vs. Occupy Wall Street. Yes, this movie as all about kids killing kids in a nationally sanctioned, socially acceptable way, complete with the pageantry of the Summer Olympics, life-sparing sponsors and Lord of the Flies alliances. With an ingredient list like this, how can the movie work? It shouldn’t, but it does. 0Maybe it is the broad parody element that makes the story bearable, except there’s not much to laugh at. It could be that in spite of the outlandish premise, matched only by the comic book coifs of the ruling class, this campy cautionary tale hits a little too close to home. Masses of downtrodden hungry people living under the high-pressure thumbs of the privileged few are not all that far-fetched these days. Sacrificing the youth of a nation for corporate gain is something we’ve numbed ourselves to after ten years in Iraq and Afghanistan. 0Supporting roles by Stanley Tucci, Woody Harrelson and Lenny Kravitz add seasoning to the stewpot and Donald Sutherland plays a Lincolnesque President with the cold-blooded aplomb of a king cobra. This is a talented cast that turns incredible performances in an incredible setting. 0Go see this movie, but when you do, realize that the futuristic craziness depicted in it is deeply rooted in the reality of our contemporary society. The Hunger Games will give you something to chew on besides a bucket of popcorn.
-2 prepared pie shells -2 cups ruby red rhubarb, chopped 1 inch slices -4 cups strawberries, de-stemmed and quartered (halved if small) -1 cup sugar -4 tablespoons cornstarch -1 tablespoon AP flour -1 lemon, zest only -1 vanilla bean, scraped, seeds only or 1 tbs. vanilla extract -1 cup instant oats -1 cup AP flour -1/4 cup brown sugar -1/2 cup slivered almonds -1 stick butter, softened Preheat oven to 375˚. Mix the first 7 ingredients together in a bowl, split into prepared pie shells. Combine the oats, AP flour, brown sugar, and almonds in a bowl. Work in the butter with fingertips until crumbly and pea sized. Sprinkle crumb mixture over pies, leaving a 1” border around. Bake the pies for 45 minutes. If the pie crust begins to brown too quickly, make a collar of aluminum foil for edges of pie.
BY: AMIE VALPONE Culinary Nutritionist and Personal Chef, Author of “The Healthy Apple” , www.TheHealthyApple.com Ingredients For the Salad: • • • •
4 cups Romaine lettuce, chopped 1 large Roma tomato, sliced 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced 2 cucumbers, sliced
For the Dressing: • • • • • • • •
1/2 cup tahini 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar 1 clove garlic 2 Tbsp. poppy seeds 1 cup green tea, brewed 2 Tbsp. grapefruit juice 1/6 tsp. sea salt 1/6 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
Directions 1. For Salad: Arrange all salad ingredients in a large serving bowl. Place into the refrigerator until ready to serve. 2. For Dressing: Place all ingredients in a blender; pulse until smooth. Transfer to a sealed container. Refrigerate for 2 hours before serving. 3. Pour dressing over salad right before serving. 4. Enjoy!
An Exploration of Random Culinary Trends, Facts, Ingredients, and Information. ADAPTED BY: STACIA SLIGER, AOS Baking and Pastry, Photographer
Quinine A soft, unripened cheese with the texture and flavor of sour cream. Quark can be used as a sour cream substitute to top baked potatoes and as an ingredient in a variety of dishes including cheesecakes, dips, salads and sauces.
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Photo By: http://thehouseofglunz.com/canadadrytonicwater
Flour or potato dumplings made with a dough containing meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, or cheese. They are traditionally used and seen in French cuisine. Photo By: http://openmindinsertbook.blogspot.com/2009_04_01_archive.html
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A variety of plum that grows in Alsace, France. They are purple in color with sweet and crunchy flesh. These plums are often used in cooking.
BY: LIZA KASSIM, AOS Culinary In a city populated with diverse cultures, Singapore has been known for its endless variety of food. Amid the local favorites like chicken rice and prawn noodles, what remains a gem for both locals and tourists is the assortment of seafood ranging from crispy deep-fried squid to barbecued stingray. Nonetheless, whether it is an outdoor food stall by the beach or a fine dining restaurant overlooking the city skyline, almost every seafood eatery flaunts its signature dish – Chilli Crab. 0What started off as a basic meal, prepared using the simplest ingredients, has now evolved into one of Singapore’s award-winning dishes, proudly displayed in majority of the country’s seafood menus. With numerous eateries serving the popular cuisine, Chilli Crab remain as the country’s most consumed delicacy and many restaurants have sought to develop their personal touch, while others have adventurously transformed the traditional recipe into a very lavish meal. 0Long before the emergence of the ‘Chilli Crab era’, the method of preparing crabs would involve basic techniques of steaming or frying them with light soya sauce. Similarly, depending on one’s ethnicity, some prefer the addition of aromatic Indian spices with a cilantro garnish to create a curry-infused crab dish. For the Indians, the curry crab is traditionally eaten with steamed rice on a banana leaf. This is a satisfying way of experiencing the combination of exotic spices and fragrant curry leaves that are tastefully blended into the dish. Alternatively, there is the traditional homemade method of preparing crabs, as adapted by the Malays and often used by the local Arab community, including my grandmother. Although she sometimes applied the conventional technique of using fresh coconut milk, my grandmother often prepared Chilli Crab by adding a spicy and tangy touch of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, turmeric leaves and a spoonful of chili paste blended together with onions and a few inches of galangal. These fragrant spices were then mixed with the coconut milk before the crabs were added to simmer under a low heat. Chilli Crab’s competitor,
Black Pepper Crabs are also a popular choice for those who prefer an intense and spicier touch in their food. This dish is generally ‘drier’ since it has less gravy than the Chilli Crab. Nevertheless, the blend of white and black peppercorn, garlic, ginger and oyster sauce exudes a fragrant and zesty sauce. The essential ingredients for the Chilli Crab dish are still used today as they were in the 1950’s. The combination of dried red chilies, ginger, garlic and onions are blended into a paste and cooked until fragrant under medium heat. Half a cup of water is then poured in before adding a spoonful of tomato paste and chili sauce, for a burst of sweet and spicy flavor. This is when the crab is added in. Although any type of crab is acceptable for the dish, the ‘Mud Crab’ is highly recommended, as it complements the tomatochilli combination with its sweet and succulent flesh. The crabs are usually semi-cracked before serving, for the convenience of customers to dig through the hardto-reach crab claws. To thicken the tangy red sauce, a couple of tablespoons of cornstarch are added, and then the sauce is finished off with a lightly beaten egg. Chopped cilantro leaves are usually garnished as a final touch to the thick flavorful result. 0The locals tend to omit the use of cutlery when feasting on this dish, as it is the best, albeit a messy way to enjoy crabs. The way the crab is eaten is as exciting as dipping your finger to squeeze the flesh out of the crab. In addition to savoring the meal with hot steamed rice, there are those who prefer having the Chiili Crab sauce with a side of steamed or deep fried buns, colloquially known as mantou. 0 Chilli Crabs are essentially a must-have for those wanting to explore the island’s varied cuisines. Eateries such as ‘Jumbo Seafood’ ‘No Signboard Seafood Restaurant’ and ‘Long Beach Seafood’ are but a few highly recommended places to enjoy local Chili Crab. It is a famous representation of Singapore’s food culture, which will continue to satisfy the palates of both locals and tourists.