Volume 32, No.13
THE
NEWSPAPER
OF
THE
CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1 9 7 9
BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary
Gerry Fernandez Photo by: Eric Jenkins
Chef Claire Winslow, Chef Lynne Giggliotti, Chef Kevin Grehzig (78’ Graduate), Brooke Maynard, Jose Nieves, Gina Lupoli and Eric Jenkins Photo by: Kamil Moore
CULINARY CULTURE
ON CAMPUS
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P 4-5
FOOD & BEVERAGE
CENTER SPREAD
P 6-7
BACK PAGE
P 8-9
P 12
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Editorial
LA PAPILLOTE
From the Editor’s Desk
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
This spring is the start of many new paths in my life: my first newspaper as Editor-in-Chief, my first nephew, my first legal drink, and soon my first trip to the West Coast. It all has been a whirlwind! I have been looking forward to this spring for some time now, though. When first signing on to La Papillote and bidding Giulianna adieu, I felt a little spark of energy inside me; a new chapter in my life has finally begun.
June 14, 2012
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jocelynn M. Neri
LAYOUT EDITOR
Jacqueline Palmer
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Sue Haug
CONTRIBUTORS
Chef Freddy Brash Chef Greg Zifchak
Duane Brown Dan Castro Eric Jeffay Eric Jenkins Liza Kassim Matthew Keen
Amie Valpone Josh Venne Laura Glen Aubrey King
This issue has been highly anticipated by many of my family members, the calligraphy of writers that have contributed, my staff, my professors that have been pushing me to greater heights and I, am just as eager for you all to read it. We have a lot going on here in the Hudson Valley that I think most will find particularly interesting. In this issue you will find some great tips to kick off your highly anticipated, and sadly short, summer.
Breeana Quinones Laura’s Foraging article is a must read. I know many people who are Bianca Swanepoel particularly interested in knowing what’s growing outside, as am I. I bet you Maureen Costura didn’t know that there is potential to make a salad from those plants commonly Jeanne Casagrande disregarded as weeds. If you are interested in seeing what it really takes to taste mother earth, listen to a bit of her advice.
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
If searching for sorrel does not suit your fancy, Bianca has checked out a local farmers market in Rhinebeck and compiled a fantastic review of which stalls are worth checking out. It is finally the North East’s pinnacle growing season! Everything from berries to asparagus is sprouting up left and right. So do your tummy and taste buds a favor and check out the local goods. Being that I am leaving for my Food, Wine and Agriculture trip, I am particularly excited about what’s growing this season. I am going to Washington and Oregon, which have similar growing seasons to the North East. When I arrive I am anticipating berries, berries and more berries! This time of year is when they thrive and from what I have been learning, Washington and Oregon grow the most over all other states in America. I hear that they are the best as well. Personally, I think that the wild raspberries I used to pick in my grandmother’s backyard are the best, but I plan to have an open mind during my travels. As the semester for BPS comes to a close and everyone starts gearing up for the summer, make sure you all get out and have some fun in Hyde Park! Explore the markets, farms, visit the historic estates nearby, or go for a bike ride down some of the local backwoods trails. There is a lot of hidden beauty in this area during the summer and everyone should explore it before school is out!
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With love & fire,
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Giulianna Galiano, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net
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LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Jacqueline Palmer (Layout Editor) jumprun@ live.com
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Blayre Miller (Copy Editor) BM680250@ mycia.net
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June 14, 2012
Culinary Culture
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BY:CHEF FREDDY BRASH, CIA Instructor
Most days I commute home to Connecticut, and on the way I pass a sign that says Sprout Creek Farm. So many times I thought, “come on Freddy, pull in there and see what they do!” One day I was ahead of schedule and finally did just that at the invite of my good friend Brendan. Sprout Creek Farm is actually right off the main road on the way to the Taconic State Parkway, just 30 minutes from CIA. As I exited my car there was a young man doing the same. He looked at me and greeted me, “Chef Brash.” I looked over to him and replied, “Brendan.” Brendan, as the cheese maker at Sprout Creek, had invited me for a day of cheese making. They have about twenty cows, many goats, and prepare the exent of raw, pasteurized, fresh and aged cheeses with the milk. Brendan brought me to where they make the cheeses. We separated the curds and whey with rennet and packed them in their little plastic containers. As an instructor, I thought it was all really exciting. It was a meaningful and spiritual process, reminiscing and making cheese with a former student, being that I taught Brendan in my Cuisines of Americas in 2000. My favorite, by far, of the cheeses they make is a creamy, rind-ripened cheese called Sofie. It is the closest cheese to the French cheeses I have tasted here in the States. At the end of the day Brendan and I had a tasting of all their fresh cheeses, as well as some of their hard cheeses. My next journey was to Bulich mushroom farm in Catskill, NY. This is where CIA buys its mushrooms. The farmers are two brothers; this is strictly a family run business and usually has no tours. I had to put my hospitality skills into action. When I called Joe Bulich up and explained who I was he had shared how busy they were. Finally, I explained to Joe that I cook his mushrooms on a daily basis so he had to show me how they grow. Relenting at first, he finally invited me to come the next day. His brother Mike gave us the tour. As we arrived, the compost was steaming outside the mushroom house, developing healthy bacteria. Mike explained that this is beneficial for mushrooms to grow. I learned that the manure from chickens and
cows, and grains, like corn and rye, is what makes up the compost. Wheat pellets are inoculated with spores to start the whole process so the underground network can develop. The remarkable thing about mushrooms is that when you enter the house, there they are popping up, creminis, portabellas and button mushrooms,
growing, dairy cows raised for milk, cheese, yogurt, and a store that sells these products. Keep in mind this is only my view of a visit there, not a definition of biodynamic farming. We toured the onion, leek, and lettuce fields, and of course bought some baked goods to snack on. Students from the CIA have been working in the fields at Hawthorne Valley for some time now. The only requirement they have is to cook vegetables they harvested that day in the farm kitchen. Go to work Chefs of the future! Finally, last week I visited Brittany Hollow Farm in Rhinebeck, north from school. This is special because our own Professor Mosher, who teaches Product Knowledge at CIA, is the manager and proprietor of this farm. If you have ever sat in Mosher’s lectures, you know that he has grown just about every vegetable from seed to harvest. Mosher has even raised goats for goat cheese at one time. Mosher’s daughter Brittany, who taught math at CIA in the past, gave me a tour of their farm. She explained to me the process from greenhouse to field, and I admire how much work is involved. As we walked through the fingerling, beet and hard neck garlic feilds, I observed Professor
Chef Brash and Professor Mosher with his family Photo provided by: Chef Brash
just in one week’s time! Bulich is the only mushroom grower in NY and us Chefs buy hundreds of pounds from them. To me, that is the definition of local. There is a buzzword around campus lately, Biodynamic. I really did not understand this completely, but heard about a farm located a bit north of us, that does. It’s called Hawthorne Valley Farm. Some of the students shared with me that these people do things differently, but what does that mean? I had to find out for myself. What is different is that they are a whole community, with a school adjacent to the farm, and work on the farm is part of their studies. What I saw is a relationship of vegetable
Mosher’s wife and son, Debbie and Ross, putting in stakes for the heirloom tomatoes that afternoon I saw a close knit family that lives this process of farm to plate. The garlic is some of the best I have ever cooked. Professor Mosher loves to cook and eat also, a quality I like about him. I often try to challenge him with my recipes, but don’t ever tell him that! So Chefs, what I have learned is that the Hudson Valley is full of farms that grow crops and raise animals with high standards, so it is our responsibility to visit them to experience their bounty. You can visit the Rhinebeck Farmers Market and pick up some of their crops to try for yourself ! Happy Travels Chefs.
In the greenhouses
A delicious quiche made from Hawthorne’s ingredients
Photos from a recent BPS visit of Hawthorne Valley Farms Photos By: Jocelynn Neri, Editor-in-Chief
LA PAPILLOTE
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BY:Maureen Costura , Professor of Anthropology of Food at The Culinary Institute of America
How are Stone Age temples and wisdom teeth related? Why are skinny people pitied in rural Jamaica? Why are humans the only animals to cook our food? All around the world, food and cooking are more than ways to fill up the belly: they carry an immense cultural weight as vehicles for meaning, communication and sociability. In the BPS course, Anthropology of Food, students are challenged to discover the ways in which humans use food culturally throughout the millennia of our development. Students will be exposed to methods of Anthropological inquiry, which includes archaeology and sociocultural Anthropology. 0 Throughout the world and across time humans have had the necessity of eating. What is chosen to eat and the ways in which food is prepared are more
than just means of preventing hunger. Universally, cooked food is an important part of human culture. Everyone cooks around the entire world and has since the beginning of human beings. In this way food is like language. And like language, food can carry meanings, express emotions and create, or destroy, relationships. Since food is also one of the few things to pass from the outer world into a person’s physical body, it is burdened with a certain amount of danger. Is the food consumed safe or clean? Who in the culture decides the standards for such things? 0Anthropologists study food as a way to understand human culture. Food is connected to all aspects of life and can give us all sorts of information on how cultures understand and interact with the world around them. In this course students will be taught to examine the ways in which food is used to carry
The concept of diversity encompasses the The event that finally took place was well worth ideals of acceptance and respect. It means the time and effort. understanding that each individual is unique, and recognizing our individual differences. These can be along the dimensions of race, ethnicity, gender, sexual orientation, socioeconomic status, age, physical abilities, religious BY:Breeana Quinones, BPS Baking and Pastry beliefs, and political beliefs; among other ideals. Our diversity festival is the exploration of these differences in a safe, positive, and nurturing environment. It is about understanding each other and moving beyond simple tolerance, to embracing and celebrating the rich dimensions of diversity contained within each individual. On the weekend of May 18th The Word Poetry Club hosted A Taste of the CIA: World Diversity Festival. This was to celebrate all of the diverse cultures that we have on campus, by holding different events during the weekend. Our mission statement is: “Understanding and developing a more diverse nation through food…..One plate at a time!” The festival was the brainchild of Damien “Juice” Williams and, me, Eric E. Jenkins. After talking about how diverse the campus was, we decided to hold an event to show it through food and fun. After weeks of brainstorming, Damien unfortunately passed away in October 2011. I took a break from planning to mourn the loss of such a great person and friend. I had run into a host of obstacles when I started planning back in December 2011, but overcame them.
meanings in various cultures, including our own. The student will not be an anthropologist at the end of the semester, but will hopefully have the tools available to them to understand the work anthropologists do and be able to better function in the international, cross-cultural, world that is the culinary industry today. In an economy, where career opportunities can come from Bahrain or Beijing as easily as they can come from New York or Chicago, it is vitally important to have the tools for cross-cultural communication readily available. Students graduating the BPS might not know where they will end up, but a working knowledge of Anthropology can make them better prepared to communicate and understand the culture when they get there.
Welcome to the Culinary Institute of America. Respect for diversity is one of the five core values that guide the college. We take great pride in the fact that we continuously embrace diversity throughout the entire campus community, and recognize that it is critical to all our efforts. Here at the CIA, we look to promote a campus environment where all people are valued for their contributions and provided with the opportunity to learn and advance in their employment and educational pursuits. Facilitating diversity – promoting and embracing it – can only lead to good things.
Intramurals The Softball season is coming into its final month and the CIA Staff team is still standing on top of the standings, despite suffering their first loss at the hands of the Master Batters on May 24th. Competition is heating up as the race to the playoffs continues. The CIA Staff team’s biggest competition still seems to be 2Balls1Strike. Captain Nick Curtis and his team 2Balls1Strike look to climb into first place in the final month of the season. Come support all the teams as the season comes to a close, and don’t miss the playoffs starting June 21!
Intercollegiate Interested in becoming a part of the CIA Steels athletics? Stop by the Multi-purpose room in the Student Recreation Center on June 19 at 9:15p.m. We will be holding an interest meeting for all of the sports coming up after summer break. So if you think you may be interested in Cross Country, Soccer, or Women’s Volleyball, come by to the sports interest meeting on June 19.
June 14, 2012
ON CAMPUS
BY: Shelly Loveland, Graduation Coordinator
Simon Marshall is president of Unilever Marshall joined the company as a sales Food Solutions North America (UFS/NA), trainee in the personal care business. He a division of Unilever Global Brands. went on to serve in a variety of customer management and marketing roles there, Unilever Food Solutions brings including sales director. foodservice products and services to chefs In 1995, he moved to Unilever Germany and then in 1997, returned to the United Kingdom as customer development director for the Home and Personal Care (HPC) business. In 2004, Mr. Marshall became managing director of HPC Ireland, for brands including Lynx, Dove, and Sure. He next took the helm of Unilever’s foodservice business in the United Kingdom, where, for four years, he was responsible for brands including Knorr, Hellmann’s, PG Tips, Lipton, Flora, and Marmite. Mr. Marshall assumed leadership of Unilever Food Solutions North America in August 2009. He has also served on the Unilever UK Ltd. national board. In addition to his responsibilities at Unilever, Mr. Marshall has contributed articles to Caterer and Hotelkeeper, a magazine for hospitality professionals published since 1878. He was also a participant in the Art of Flavor in the World of High Volume, High Quality Dining invitational leadership summit at The Culinary Institute of
and operators, including such familiar brands as Hellmann’s and Lipton. The company recently enhanced its services, for professional culinarians, providing them in three critical areas: Your Guests, Your Kitchen, and Your Menu. These services: a mix of consulting, market research, menu innovation, and kitchen efficiency strategies, are designed to help chefs and operators better understand and serve their customers and thrive in the ever-changing foodservice industry. The re-launch of UFS in North America is part of a global rollout in all 74 countries in which the company operates, and represents a key step toward its goal of doubling its growth rate while reducing its environmental impact. A 31-year veteran of Unilever, Mr.
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Roz Mallet is president and CEO of PhaseNext Hospitality, a franchise operating company based in Plano, TX. The companies mission is to deliver fresh, high-quality, quick, and casual restaurant brands. These brands meet the public’s ever-increasing demand for higher quality food, service, hospitality, and convenience. PNH brands include the Corner Bakery Café, Buffalo Wild Wings, Smashburger, and Freshii. Ms. Mallet is a seasoned leader with extensive experience in enterprise strategy, turnarounds, transition planning, systems implementation, human capital development, and franchise operations. Before founding PhaseNext with business partner Amy O’Neill, she was president and interim CEO of Caribou Coffee. Ms. Mallet has a comprehensive background in several restaurant segments, having worked in leadership roles in casual dining (Applebee’s and TGI Friday’s), quick casual (La Madeleine), and quick service (Caribou). She served as senior vice president of human resources for Carlson Companies and as partner at American Service Management Resources, a consulting business specializing in human resources. Before that, Ms. Mallet was training supervisor and, later, director of human resources for the original T. J. Applebee’s Edibles & Elixirs, helping the chain grow from two restaurants to 54. From 1978 to 1982, she was on the road opening new restaurants for the El Chicos Mexican Food Restaurant chain. She began her career in foodservice while working at an El Chicos in Houston, TX over summer break from her studies at St. Mary’s University in San Antonio, TX, where she later graduated with a bachelor of arts degree. In addition to her responsibilities at PhaseNext, Ms. Mallet contributes to her industry and community by serving as chair of the board of directors of the National Restaurant Association, lead director of Share Our Strength and board member of People Report. She also holds positions for many other businesses and not-for-profit organizations. Roz Mallet has been recognized for her achievements with a long list of awards and honors, including the Women’s Foodservice Forum Trailblazer Award in 2008, the National Restaurant Association American Dream and Inspiration Award in 2007, and a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Conrad N. Hilton College of Hotel & Restaurant Management at the University of Houston. She has also been hailed as one of the, “25 Most Powerful Women,” by Nation’s Restaurant News.
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
BY: Bianca Swanepoel, AOS Baking and Pastry
Turkey eggs; that’s what I left with in my basket. Not the imported Tuscany olive oil from Dancing Ewe, or the deep-fried pickles from Spacey Tracy’s Pickles, but rather something I have never had in my own fridge before. Oh how the Sunday morning tradition of market-going continues. Hipsters on bikes, mothers carrying wild flowers and gifted thirteen-year-olds playing violins. Just a typical Sunday in the small, upscale town of Rhinebeck. One of the sellers from Quattro’s Poultry and Game Farm handed my friend, Megan, and I an egg carton. This carton was clearly too small for the eggs of a turkey, but nevertheless, we picked through the pile of eggs that they had displayed. Their stall appeared to be a common stop for market-goers, with products such as rabbit, pheasant, duck and chicken eggs, as well as venison without hormones, chemicals or antibiotics. Quattro’s duck breasts are apparently the first to be sold out, so you may have to change your Sunday sleep-in schedule if duck is on your family meal menu. Be sure to have a good game plan for getting those dainty eggs home because, unfortunately, ours didn’t exactly make the car-ride home. There were several organic produce stands present. Migliorelli Farm of Tivoli, New York had attracted quite a crowd with the stream of customers lined up waiting to purchase their bundles of greens. Brittany
Hollow Farm has been a loyal Rhinebeck Farmer’s Market vendor for nineteen years and is proud to be a family-operated farm that harvests pesticide-free produce. Their harvests include anything from several varieties of potatoes, to garlic, leafy greens and squashes. From July until September they have a pick-your-own flowers location in Rhinebeck, just on the West side of Route 9. Being the baker that I am, I was pulled towards the table of Our Daily Bread like a magnet. Hand-made artisanal breads and pastries were fanned out for me to drool over, like a housewife with a hot pool boy. Mexican chipotle brownies, cheese danishes and a dozen or so different types of rye and sourdough breads were sold. Unfortunately, the brownie didn’t really scream Chipotle flavor; not even a small whisper of spice. However, I inhaled the rye loaf and rosemary sourdough within seconds at dinnertime. Our Daily Bread presented a separate stand for gluten free products with assorted loaves of gluten free bread and cookies. I got a little overwhelmed, to say the least, and was excited to buy a gluten free blueberry scone. Lynnhaven, located in Pine Bush, about twenty minutes away from New Paltz, boasted about their artisanal goat milk and goat cheeses. They naturally raise their award-winning herd of Nubian & La Mancha dairy goats, which all their products are made and sourced from.
So of course, I took advantage of the free samples. Though the cranberry-cinnamon goat cheese was a bit too abrasive with cinnamon, the lavender and honey goat cheese won me over. Despite my liking for it, I could not find it in me to spend $7.25 for only about 4 ounces of cheese. Let us not forget the falafel! It was definitely the longest line and the aroma coming from Aba’s Falafel lingered in every corner of the market. The first falafel wrap I ever ate was at the Shongweni Farmer’s Market in South Africa. I talked myself into indulging (which, let’s be honest, isn’t hard to do) and to carry on my own tradition. I consumed a whole $7 of deliciousness, fresh local ingredients and the comfort of warm falafel nuggets. It was a pretty generous amount so I shared it with three other people. Hunger pangs were cured with just a little tahini mess to lick off our fingers. No matter where you are in the world, you will find a local farmer’s market built up from home-grown hobbies and livelihoods. It’s unfortunate that prices tend to be slightly jacked-up, but I still find that the farmer’s market is a must do activity with friends and family to help that post-weekend recovery. Being food-obsessed students living in the Hudson Valley, it is worth seeing what our local farms have to offer. It is well worth the thirty-minute drive.
BY: Aubrey King, BPS Culinary, I Talk to Food
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et’s face it, passing up a giant warm chocolate chunk cookie on our way to the salad bar in Farquharson Hall is merely impossible. At The Culinary Institute of America we are not only learning to cook, but to eat as well. The more you eat, the more you understand food and flavor. On the other hand, staying fit is key to being successful in the kitchen. Once, a chef of mine announced, “if you’re not fit, you’ll never be able to make it in this industry. You have to be able to move quickly!” How are we supposed to stay fit while learning to cook? For the past two and half years, my mission was to find that balance. 0I am by no means an expert, but merely a fellow student who would prefer not to bust my buttons on my chef coat or graduate with the “freshman 50” that CIA students are rumored to gain. You may have seen me walking around the halls with mason jars filled with green looking slop, or noticed that I went on a raw diet for a week as an experiment; I would call myself a health nut. However, if roasted bone marrow and toast is near by, you bet it will soon be in my mouth. I have been lucky enough to find that balance at this school when it comes to eating and would like to share just how I have done it. Step 1: Put down the pastries and desserts.
The all-you-can-eat dessert table should not be a daily visited area. I know what you are thinking, “well I only take a few bites…” but that is never the case. Believe me, I was once a first year student too. If a dessert is delicious and it is in front of me, I am going to eat it all. Pass that table and enjoy dessert on special occasions or once a week. A few bites at lunch and dinner will add up. If you or your roommate is a baker, take control of your appetite. A dorm room filled with croissants and brioche is torture. Try instead to eat an apple and think, “I do not want to waddle around the kitchen”. Step 2: Family meal is not an eating contest. Working in the kitchen all day can work up quite the appetite. However, shoveling food onto a plate and then into your mouth is a dangerous act. Eating too much will slow you down and make you sleepy. Your body does not have enough time to digest or tell you when it’s actually full. It is important to portion control. You should be able to see the white of your plate after putting small spoonfuls of everything on it. Step 3: Drink water I know, I know, you hear it from everyone to drink more water, but if you aren’t drinking enough it is important to drink more. You can buy a 32 oz reusable Nalgene water bottle from Target for less than $10. Our bodies function much better when they are hydrated, so drink at least 64 oz of water a day. You will be surprised at how much better you will feel. Working in a hot kitchen, especially in the summer time, is torture on your body if you don’t hydrate it with water. And no, that pink juice in the dining hall is not a substitute for the real thing. Step 4: Two bites is all you need I once read an interview of the fittest chefs in the industry. One of them explained that she only took two bites when working in the kitchen. One bite to taste and another if she really liked it. This way, she
could taste everything but had self-control as to not go overboard. Following this rule might be hard at times, but think of it as a challenge of perseverance the next time you are in the kitchen. Step 5: The salad bar is your best friend It might be true that I rarely eat at the kitchens. Instead, I usually build monstrous salads at the salad bar or swipe for one at courtside. Salad fills your body with nutritious vegetables and fiber, which makes you feel full longer. I suggest eating a salad with protein like fish, chickpeas or chicken, to round out the meal. If you live in the dorms, think about investing in a to-go container. Fill it up with ingredients from the salad bar for later. Having healthy snacks on hand will prevent any naughty snacking behavior. Oh and one more thing, Ranch dressing is delicious, but it’s not all that great for you. Try using a light dressing or vinaigrette. Step 6: Late night binge eating is not a good idea I’m guilty of going to Eveready in the wee hours of the morning for a late night snack of sweet potato fries. It’s easy to let a healthy diet fly out the window when greasy, late night food is near. If you think a hangover from alcohol is bad, I would debate a food hangover is even worse. Waking up with a belly full of fried salty foods is no fun. If you must have a late snack prepare yourself properly. When you head to the store to buy the beverages for the evening, buy bags of carrots, low fat popcorn and fruit. I guarantee you and your body will feel ten times better the next day when you steer clear from the drive through. It is easy to “let ourselves go” and slowly become the hefty chefs people generally imagine. The saying “never trust a skinny chef” has long disappeared. Some of the greatest chefs in the world are fit. Here at the CIA, we live to eat and it is a beautiful trait we all share. Finding a balance with it all is not easy, but taking the time to treat your body right will inevitably reflect in the food you serve to others.
June 14, 2012
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An assorment of honey at the market Photo By: Bianca Swanepoel
Plants for gardening. Photo By: Bianca Swanepoel
BY: Laura Glenn, BPS Culinary
Organic Vegetables Photo By: Bianca Swanepoel
Gobble Gobble! Photo By: Bianca Swanepoel
pictures provided by italktofood.com
of species. Plants are often easier to identify and safer for the inexperienced to consume. Even better, there are many invasive species that were let feral by immigrants. Plants like garlic mustard and Japanese knotweed are delicious and easy to find and you don’t have to worry about over harvesting them. So what wild plants are in season now? You can easily find wild versions of popular berries like blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries all over the Hudson Valley. These plants have few to no imitators and are sweeter and more flavorful than the industrial varieties. A more careful hunter will find small wild strawberries in the forest; the plants are low to the ground and much tinier than the store bought ones, but so much more flavorful. This summer I am most excited to find wild lotus roots. The wild lotus is the largest flowering plant in North America and is not easily mistaken
In many ways, this was a disappointing spring for Hudson Valley foragers. While the ramp harvest was fantastic, the strange weather patterns meant that even experienced foragers only found a few morels if they were lucky. As we ease into the next season there will be only a few choice mushroom edibles until peak summer. Those who want to be prepared for the explosion of chanterelles that we can expect from the last few hot and wet weeks would do best to become familiar with a particular forest. The best way to improve your foraging success rate is to learn as much as you can about an ecosystem. A good forager is not Ghost Flowers someone who comes in and Photo By: Laura Glenn poaches as many mushrooms as T h e possible, without caring about the forest, but rather tubers grow about someone who sees themselves as another link in a a foot deep in the complicated food chain. mud of almost The last few times I’ve gone out I haven’t harvested all healthy, warm any mushrooms, but every time I still find something waterways and are new and amazing. Recently I found ghost flowers. easily found by These rare wildflowers are the stark white that their identifying their name describes, and grow without needing any sun huge lillypads. exposure. They form a parasitic relationship on To harvest, I the root system of mushrooms, hacking into the borrow a canoe symbiotic relationship of mushroom and tree. They from a friend in form one flower each and resemble a lily of the Maryland to scoot valley, with a hanging bell. They are a delicate and up small rivers. Once the pads are found, run unexpected beauty hidden under the leaf matter. your hand down the connecting branch, following Foraging is not a causal hobby. To be safe and it from thicker to thin. If you aren’t careful, you successful, one must dedicate plenty of time to might follow an incorrect root with no tuber. At the reading guides and scouting the woods. Harvesting end, you can pull them up and snap off the mud wild mushrooms is sometimes intimidating to banana, as the tubers are called in the South. This is novices and it should be. certainly not a job for anyone afraid of a little dirt, There are a few mushroom varieties that will kill, but what could be more fun on a hot summer day plenty will make you feel very sick and even more than harvesting beautiful natural produce in a cool that just taste awful. I often have friends ask for tips stream? on how to forage, or short cuts to identification, Certainly bring a few beers in the canoe and and the real answer is that there are none. Anyone some friends. Once cooked, the tubers will turn a who wants the excitement of hiking the woods and brilliant blue or pink depending on their maturity finding tasty things, but doesn’t have time to do the and have the starchy flavor of potatoes. The tubers necessary research, is better off foraging for plants. can be harvested all summer and are more common While mushroom hunting is what most people in hot and wet locations like the South. For those think of, foraging actually encompasses a huge variety harvesting in the Deep South, beware of alligators!
LA PAPILLOTE
8
BY: ERIC JEFFAY, BPS Culinary, Senior Food Writer
design that Rhinebeck has so obviously A stroll through Rhinebeck, New York embraced. offers quite the experience in people Equally as casual, the service is watching. To say the medium sized somewhat less appealing. At times it is village is an eclectic mix of people perfect, friendly and relaxed, with visible would be an understatement. At no time Sunday morning ease. Less frequently, was this more evident than on a recent though, it can be slightly overbearing Sunday morning trip to Bread Alone or slow, especially as the restaurant fills Bakery on the main road, East Market to capacity. On two recent visits our server was caring and approachable, yet on a third a different server didn’t bring coffees and other drinks until well after the food had arrived. With only ten hot menu items, the kitchen puts out wellexecuted and delicious food, with a definite locavore approach. The offerings run the gamut of traditional breakfast foods, with omelettes, french toast, Bread Alone and pancakes offered. www.breadalone.com Street in this charming town. Egg Toast is a noteable dish, with a Frankenstein like The largest space for dining out of cross of an over easy egg and a piece of the three locations, Rhinebeck’s Bread toast, and the Country Scramble, with Alone Bakery was preceded by two Coach Farm goat cheese, Canadian smaller take-out style cafes in Woodstock bacon, and scallions. The signature and Boiceville, New York. The outpost granola is an excellent cold item for in Rhinebeck, though, is note for its those looking for a lighter breakfast, table service dining, open for both though it is literally double a normal breakfast and lunch seven days a week. sized portion. Of course, the highlight of all the dishes is Bread Alone’s fantastic The ambiance of the café is markedly bread served on the side. casual, without the tablecloths or fancy silver and glassware that so many cafes To say that bread at restaurants is pretentiously attempt to use. With often mediocre is a sad truth. Quite graphic art prints on the walls, high honestly, many people have become ceilings, and knotted wood floors the desensitized by these flabby, crust-less, restaurant calls to mind the hipster chic and flavorless mounds of baked dough.
Hudson Valley Restaurants 1) Family Style, 130 Seats, Vassar College Area, Banquet Room, 1,000 SF, Kitchen, 50 Car Park 2) Casual Theme, 150 Seats, U.S. Hwy Location, 2 Acres All Frontage, Brewery, Casual Theme 3) Country Setting, Victorian Style, Restaurant & B&B, Farm to Market Concept, Historic River City 4) Prominent Building, 30 Cars, Landmark Location, Live-Work, Boutique, Retail Area for To Go Menu 5) Night Club, Craft Brewery, Comedy Club, Catering Hall, 700 Seats, Interstate Hwy Visibility
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At Bread Alone, though, everything is done right. The crust gives a satisfying chew, the flavor is deep and yeasty and the crumb texture is delicate and airy. As Jeffery Steingaten puts it, “Bread is the only food I know that satisfies completely, all by itself.” Although, I would add, the eggs and coffee at Bread Alone don’t hurt. Coffee is something that every restaurant has, but few buy high quality beans and brew it correctly. Thankfully Bread Alone also excels in this area, offering cups of high quality, flavorful ‘joe. In fact, it has even partnered with Counter Culture Coffee to advance its direct trade ideals. Coupled with the Hudson Valley Fresh dairy in its espresso drinks, Bread Alone Café is quickly becoming a model for which hot drinks should be based. Unfortunately, though, I was reminded that high moral standards often come with an equally high price tag, with a cup of coffee running $2.50 and espresso drinks from $3.00 to $4.25. A meal at Bread Alone is enjoyable and relaxing, with good service and better food and drinks. Sunday mornings in Rhinebeck are certainly a sight to be seen, and experienced. Bread Alone Bakery 45 E. Market Street Rhinebeck, NY 12572 (845) 876-3108 Guide to Ratings 1 plate () Good 2 plates () Great 3 plates () Excellent 4 plates () Superb
June 14, 2012
FOOD & BEVERAGE
9
BY: LIZA KASSIM, AOS Culinary
If you have visited Singapore, then you probably have eaten satay. This food is so popular that a relaxing outdoor eatery was created to just sell satay for both locals and tourists to enjoy. There are numerous varieties of satay to choose from. The most popular types are: mutton, chicken, beef, liver, tripe and seafood varieties, namely prawn. A typical plate of satay is accompanied with roughly cut slices of cucumber, small cuts of onions and ketupat; a traditional compressed rice wrapped with strips of coconut leaves. It is always served with a bowl of sweet spicy peanut sauce. Satay became popular because it is an extremely simple meal. During the 1960’s and 70’s, it was common to spot a satay seller going from one village, or kampung, to another. To the Singaporean locals, he was the “Satay Man”. This man, tipically a peddler who dressed with a traditional sarong and songkok, would carry a portable charcoal grill and a small wooden box to hold his many satays. Dozens of them, in many varieties, would be marinated and grilled right there and then. I have to admit that as a child, it was undoubtedly a great treat for my friends and I. Whenever we were given a plate of freshly grilled satays, we would eagerly dip them in a small bowl of peanut sauce and savor every morsel. Nothing was more satisfying than eating and sharing a hot grilled satay. With a single bite, the meat would easily slide off the bamboo stick and release a juicy, tenderly flavorful bites. It tasted so good that it would seem impossible to consume just one stick. The best part of it all was when we
would count the left over bamboo sticks when we had finished eating, which clearly indicated who ate the most! The origin of satay in Singapore dated back from the early traders who travelled through the spice route to Singapore in the early 19 th century. The journey also covered some parts of Southeast Asia. Besides the exposure to exotic spices, the villagers were significantly influenced
A plethora of satay Photo provided by: Liza Kassim
by quintessential cuisines that were introduced from throughout Southeast Asia. This coincidentally exposed the locals to the food, culture and religion of those who were on the routes. Satay was a unique version of the Kebabs brought by these traders. These similarly have the same small cut of meat, usually cubed neatly and stuck on a skewer. It is then grilled and typically eaten with yogurt sauce. Satays were the locals’ version of kebabs. Small pieces of meat were marinated with local herbs and spices which included: turmeric, lemongrass, ginger, and ground coriander. After it
was well distributed and marinated, small bite size pieces of meat would then be neatly pierced on a bamboo stick and grilled to perfection. A plethora of different types of satays are sold at almost every city center, all over the island. The popular Satay Club is a place that used to be a favorite original spot in the 60’s and up until early 80s. It would have to be the most pleasurable outdoor experience to enjoy with family and friends for many, since it was located close to the Esplanade and Merlion. It was not uncommon to see one order a few dozen different types of satay that were joyfully eaten and shared. With the reclamation of land, due to new development, now stands the Theatres on the Bay. The famous Satay Club was moved to a new location; the trendy and modern outdoor dining area, Clark Quay, is the site of a casual area with satay. Another prominent open-air dining area for Satay lovers would be the Lau Pa Sat. Located at a busy financial center, the occupied business area in the day was immediately converted after sunset to a casual outdoor eatery to unwind. To most Singaporeans, satay is a very satisfying meal for the whole family to enjoy. It is a celebration meal for all occasions. It is no wonder that Singapore Airlines, the world’s best airline, included satay as one of the appetizers served to the First Class passengers. Satay; a modest dish undeniably exposed local flavor for everyone to savor.
BY: Jocelynn Neri, EIC, BPS Culinary
Vegan Herb Shortcake: Makes 8 small cakes
• 1 cup Bob’s Red Mill all-purpose flour (gluten-free or regular) • 1/3 cup sugar + 1 Tbs • 1/4 tsp salt • 1 1/2 tsp baking powder • 3 Tbs Smart Balance Light (vegan butter alternative) • 1 tsp vanilla • 3 oz. coconut milk yogurt • 1 sprig each of Lemon Balm and Spearmint Directions: • Preheat oven on Convection to 350°F. In a bowl combine dry ingredients. Scoop in the butter alternative. With your hands, rub the butter into the flour mixture until it is mealy. Add in the vanilla and yogurt. Wash and chiffonade the herbs then mix into the batter. Spoon onto a greased cookie sheet. Sprinkle sugar (Demerara works really well) on top and bake for 10 minutes or until the bottoms are golden brown. For the berries: • Wash the strawberries, remove the tops, and quarter them. Sprinkle desired amount of sugar (I used 1 tablespoon) onto the berries. Roast them on a baking sheet for five minutes while your cakes are baking. Scoop onto a halved shortcake with fresh lemon balm.
Vegan Strawberry Shortcake www.cookforloveandfire.wordpress.com
LA PAPILLOTE
10
BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary
O I G G E L A T R L N Z P R O Y T J Q M
ASIAGO BLUE BLUE VEIN BRIE CHEDDAR CHÈVRE COW CREAM CHEESE EDAM FETA FRANCE GOAT IRELAND ITALY MEXICO MOZZARELLA NEUFCHÂTEL
PARMIGIANO REGGIANO
N N Q U A R K N H M Z P F M C E R O P O
O N A M O R O N I R O C E P S H O S X Z
M M R I P E A C D M A X U W E W F Z U Z
W C N E G T V E L T I N Z D R F E H Z A
S A E F T G S I A C I O A F F V U L K R
N H T O E S E L O T T G M E O D Q G F E
S E C E E T I R E E S A O D S B O A U L
R I U C R F A D O W F I R A E P R M N L
R E O F A B K U I N A S A M U X S N I A
S R G T C I U T N X A A N G Q C M I T C
P S S E N H Z F Y I E I O C H B O A E E
W A I G I E A N F C E R G I R Q K P D S
P O D W R Z O T W A H V V I T J E S S T
E O C L S T B E E D L E E E M A D L T I
M B A B Y G O A T L W O D U H R L E A L
D N C R E A M C H E E S E D L C A Y T T
D R O E U L B K V C N M Y Q A B C P E E
D E N E P I R T F O S E C N A R F B S N
I R E L A N D W A S H E D R I N D K R M
PASTA FILATA PECORINO ROMANO PROCESSED QUARK QUESO FRESCO RICOTTA ROQUEFORT SCHABZIEGER SHEEP SMOKED SOFT RIPENED SPAIN SWISS SWITZERLAND TALEGGIO UNITED KINGDOM UNITED STATES WASHED RIND WATER BUFFALO WHEY XYNOTYRO ZAMORANO
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June 14, 2012
11
Baked Oatmeal Gluten & Dairy Free
BY: AMIE VALPONE Culinary Nutritionist and Personal Chef, Author of “The Healthy Apple” , www.TheHealthyApple.com
BPS Culinary Arts Management: BPS Baking & Pastry Arts Management: Zachary Dejong Dana Disanto Young Do Dalton Edwards Erik Entrada Emily Farca Kyle Felt Scott Fiene Glenn Forde Gail Agyeman Junsoo Bae Sang-Jin Bae Joseph Bandalos Kyu Hee Cho Caroline Clemens Michael Corbin Lindsay Culver David Dein Aissa Gerbaud Kyle Gorzynski Tyler Hall David Hammer Andrew Hossley Madison Huang InHaeng Jung So Jung Kang Patrick Lebeau Augustine Lee Emily Li Juan Lopez Michal Matejczuk Giselle Medina Robert Miller Julia Mitchell Daniel Moehler Michael ¬Osborne Philip Peoples Timothy Perry Jeffrey Presley Tara Robinson Vinicius Rosa Heather Skinner Peter Talanca Michael Touchette Douglas Tronzo Joshua Venne Mariana Villegas Daniel Warsaw Jeremy Wells Arthur Wessels Mitchell Willis Simon Woo Kathleen Woolf
Joey Abramson Stephanie Berry Jessica Garcia Mary Taylor Gibbs Harin Gupta Jeffrey McPike Brett Morton Molly Power Breeana Quinones Amanda Richards Amanda Smith Christina Son Krista Stites Carolyn Wanie Marika Wells Reyon Withanage
Ingredients: • 2 cups uncooked gluten-free oats • 3/4 cup slivered almonds • 2 Tbsp. stevia • 1 tsp. baking powder • 2 tsp. cinnamon • 1/2 tsp. sea salt • 1 3/4 cups almond milk • 1 large egg • 3 Tbsp. butter, melted • 2 tsp. gluten-free vanilla extract • 1 cup fresh blueberries • 1 cup fresh strawberries, sliced • Honey, for serving Directions: • Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Prepare an 8-inch square baking dish with nonstick baking spray. • Combine oats, almonds, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and sea salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk almond milk, egg, butter, and vanilla extract. • Transfer oat mixture to prepared baking dish; layer the almond milk mixture on top of oats. Scatter blueberries and strawberries on top. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown and the oat mixture has set. Remove from oven; set aside to cool for 5 minutes b e f o r e serving with a drizzle of honey.
An Exploration of Random Culinary Trends, Facts, Ingredients, and Information. ADAPTED BY: DAN CASTRO, BPS Culinary, Photographer
Prized by gourmets throughout the world, sweetbreads are the thymus glands of veal, young beef, lamb or pork. When purchasing, choose sweetbreads that are white, plump and firm. Before being cooked, sweetbreads must be soaked in several changes of acidulated water and their outer membrane removed. Sweetbreads can be prepared in a variety of ways including poaching, sautéing and braising.
Photo By: wholefoodsmarket.com
[sahl-tihm-BOH-kuh] This Italian term literally translates to, “jump mouth.” It refers to a Roman specialty made of finely sliced veal sprinkled with sage and topped with a thin slice of prosciutto. It is sautéed in butter, then braised in white wine. Sometimes the meat layers are rolled and secured before being cooked.
Photo By: seriouseats.com
Photo By: ephillyfoodlover.blogspot.com
souvlakia [soo-VLAH-kee, sooVLAH-kee-uh] This Greek specialty consists of lamb cubes that have been marinated in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, oregano and seasonings before being skewered and grilled. Some Photo By: thekitchn.com souvlakia skewers also include [SEHCH-wahn, SEHCH-oo-ahn] vegetables such as Native to the Szechuan province of China, this green pepper or mildly hot spice comes from the prickly ash tree. Though not related to the peppercorn family, Szechuan berries resemble black peppercorns but contain a tiny seed. It can be found in Asian markets and specialty stores in whole or powdered form.
[soo-FLAY] A light, airy cake that usually begins with a thick egg yolk-based sauce or puree that is lightened by stiffly beaten egg whites. These cakes are very delicate and are a considered a master craft in their own right. If not cooked properly, they fall flat once being removed from the oven.
Photo By: lifehack.org
[san-GREE-uh] The blood-red color of this beverage inspired its name, which is derived from the Spanish word for “blood.” Sangría is made with red wine, fruit juices, soda water, fruit and sometimes liquors such as brandy or cognac. Sangría blanco (white sangría) is made with white wine. Both are served cold over ice and make a refreshing cooler on a hot summer day.
Photo By: blog.timesunion.com
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