November 26, 2013 Issue

Volume 33, No.35

November 26, 2013

P utting T he S potlightB

J ust T ake A D eep B reath

ean to

BY: Daniel Colonel, BPS Baking and Pastry Just take a deep breath. Four months of working on this showpiece has finally come to an end, and now, the time has come to display it in its proper venue, at the Javits Center in New York City.

Just take a deep breath. The last four months have been mentally and emotionally exhausting, challenging, frustrating, but still very exciting.

Having the two best partners someone could ask for, I learned from them and learned about myself. After covering five tiers, two separators, a large wooden board, and a ten inch ring in fondant, making around a thousand flowers and foliage, and spending hours upon hours putting everything together while listening to hours upon hours of the 90’s pop Pandora station/ Wicked soundtrack on repeat, two more tasks have yet to be completed; transporting the pieces to the City, and stacking the cake on the table. Just take a deep breath.

My alarm goes off at 5:00 a.m. on Saturday. Just take a deep breath. Not only did I have to put the finishing details, but I Photo Credit: CIA also had class that Saturday. After class, I stayed in the bakeshop, with my partner, and finished up the last few details.

Continued page 5

Black

on

Culinarian

B&P S howpieces

B ar

BY: Michael McCarey, BPS Baking and Pastry The food show. It’s one of the most amazing things students and faculty members at the college do every year. The Javits Center in NYC, the prestige, the pressure, the work, are all turned up a notch.

Having been at the CIA for three years, I have seen the previous two years displays from the show in both Roth Hall and many of the photos taken of them. I had known students, now graduated and gone, and that competed in the show before and made such beautiful creations.

From a windmill made out of bread dough to a window pane of pure sugar, there’s been simply amazing showpieces in the past.

Around late August, I started to ask about the show for this year. It’s quite funny really, because the day I first asked Chef Greweling about the piece seemed like just yesterday. Other students had asked me during the process, “How do you get involved with the food show pieces? Do you get chosen to do them? Do you get to choose the concept?” And the answers are really simple!

Similar to all of the other great experiences for extracurricular development at the college, you have to take initiative. If there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s that opportunities like these aren’t Photo Credit: CIA simply placed in your lap. They do, however, take a monstrous amount of work.

Continued page 8

Gala

Society

BY: Nicole Carmona, BPS Baking and Pastry The Black Culinarian Society has been a club on The Culinary Institute of of the grain. The two chefs are blowing wind to make the windmill move.

America’s campus since its start date in 1993. The club has evolved into a Without each other the true food experience wouldn’t be possible. We also global organization with many chapters, with CIA being one of them. For included the gears and bolts because without those the windmill could the last 20 years, BCA Global has held a Gala in New York City. This year, not move. The boarder of the showpiece includes breads from around the our chapter of The CIA was asked to make the entrees world and the globe is holding it all together. All for the event. We were all very excited and had a great of these ideas were great on paper but took a lot menu planned for the entrees. Although we were pleased of time and hard work to achieve. With the help and honored to make the entrees, we wanted to do more. of Chef Welker, Alicia and I worked long shifts They also spoke to us about the Viennese Part of the for the final two weeks of production it took to night where each school would showcase their baking create this piece that was presented to Gala goers. and pastry side as well. As president of BCS and a baker The showpiece was showcased at the BCA Global myself, I thought this was very necessary. We were, Gala on Friday, November 8th, 2013. Thirteen therefore, asked to have a centerpiece to differentiate students from both AOS and BPS programs at The each club. I didn’t want just a simple vase and flowers, Culinary and representatives of both baking and I thought about doing something unique. I wanted to pastry and culinarian students (including Alicia make the centerpiece a showpiece and showcase our and myself), Alecia Ho-Sang (advisor), and Chef baking and pastry talent as well.

Johnson (advisor) attended the event representing

This year’s gala theme was “Global Immersion”. the CIA. This being the theme, had allowed Alicia Macias

I was nominated for the High Performance (Culinary) and I, Nicole Carmona (Baking and Pastry), award at the event as well. I was really nervous Photo Credit: Nicole Carmona to come up with our ideas for the showpiece. We wanted to show diversity but I won the award and my speech knocked people off their feet. I was and how bakers and culinarians may be two different fields but have one honored and excited to be able to represent the CIA, in all forms. common goal. We all use “grains”, so the windmill represented the making Culinary Culture

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FOOD & BEVERAGE

Real Food Police ON CAMPUS

Fall Athletics Recap!

P 8-9

Fa r m e r s M a r k e t F i n d s P 4-5

CENTER SPREAD

Friends, Not Food

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BACK PAGE

All in GoodTaste...

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LA PAPILLOTE

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THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

November 26, 2013

PUBLISHER

The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephanie M. Kirkland

LAYOUT EDITOR

Sydney Estrada

ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS Daniel Colonel Michael McCarey Nicole Carmona Chef Fred Brash Daniel Jaroz Michael Murphy Anna Ungricht Abby Gilkey

Sue Haug

Natasha White Alexis Harrington Anthony Young Connor White Marie Jenkins Amy Zarichnak

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net

We are not normal people. This I have come to know. When we walk into William’s Sonoma…we are those crazy twenty somethings absolutely pouring over a copper kitchen aid. Well, maybe that’s just me. There to watch my interest and excitement are many other, older, buyers. The stares and quizzical eyes are brought upon my friends and I watching surprisingly; taken aback.

We have dinner parties on Sunday nights with Syrah pairings per course. Trying with complete focus to differentiate between Australian, California, and Washington varietals while having multiple other conversations along with the tastes we receive with each and every sip.

We are ridiculous. We are foodies, we are proud. And we absolutely know what we’re talking about.

We are wise in our young age.

With that said, going home for the holidays comes equally as a shock and release. I feel like a lot of us are expected to outshine our usual routines of the holidays; whether parents or extended family are still accustomed to taking care of every detail, or not, no matter how exhausted we may be, aren’t we expected to outshine the meal(s) with our, “One signature dish?” To make something our families are blown away by or even expected to change our traditions because of our education?

I myself have not yet mastered the takeover of the turkey and stuffing that is just as prized in my eyes as any gourmet dish. The furthest I have gone to change things in the Kirkland-Pasqualone house over the holidays is garlic mashed potatoes and broccoli au buerre last minute, with the occasional minced garlic clove before we sit down. They think it’s the best thing since sliced bread and that’s all that matters.

Nothing fancy, nothing over board. Just enough to switch it up is what’s really enticing. If you can bring something as simple as mashed potatoes to an even heightened level with cream instead of milk, and your family and friends being able to notice the difference, then you are doing something right. The small techniques and improvements to something already pretty great is the turning point between a home cook, and a culinarian.

So what is ‘normal’ in our eyes? Can we agree, solely, to thoughts and experiences that only the people around us have made us aware of? Can I not accept a person who does not eat the perfect, tiny brioche bun, which accompanies a slider? The fact is I will hold that kind of thing against you, with the exception that it is because of some version of gluten intolerance.

I’m the girl that says, “Are you gonna eat that?” But most of the time (sorry friends) I just slyly grab the scraps off others plates. Not out of deliberate rudeness, of course, but because I like to try bits of everything. Let’s just say that I like to think of myself as well rounded.

What we may consider normal is a succession of these things: from talking about food/to cooking classes/ to spending time actually prepping and eating food/ and then trying to run away from it. Or otherwise known as, reading/writing/thinking about food even more.

I’m consumed by it. When I eat breakfast, I’m thinking of lunch, snacks and dinner later on while trying to fit those singular times into my schedule that is, again, based on food.

Encountering others that are not even close to doing or thinking the same about food as we do is often times, for me at least, off-putting and foreign. Which leads me to other thoughts and questions like, have I gotten so used to this realm of tasty food, and creative minds, that I cannot open myself up to other possibilities of how people eat and think about food? Can I stop relating my varied experiences with others’ that are not so varied and opportunistic? Feeling grateful is much different than feeling superior. And if anything I hope that I can inform others about things they may not know about food, rather than jumping to conclusions.

However, what I do know is that I am forever changed from attending this school and it can only be for the better.

As always, stay hungry, Stephanie Kirkland

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LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Sydney Estrada (Layout Editor)

SE853582@mycia. net

Alexis Harrington (Copy Editor) a.harrington@ gmail.com

November 26, 2013

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T hanksgiving B reak BY: Chef Freddy B, Chef Instructor

Chefs...we are lucky and very fortunate to have a long break awaiting us, even more now that CIA has Wednesday as a traveling day for those who live in farther places.

If that was not enough for students who are less fortunate to head home for this holiday, a Thanksgiving Meal will be prepared on Thursday. In this way, I think school is very good and fair.

I was on the Bachelor’s trip years ago and we were traveling on this holiday, so everyone on the trip was away from their families. Before we sat down to carve the turkey, someone at the table made a suggestion that everyone must share what they are grateful for. I love this idea of gratitude because I have that built in forget-ter. All sorts of passages were declared gratitude for families, spouses, relationships and of course, lucky to not having to roast the turkey that day.

Thanksgiving is a big holiday for Freddy B. Mainly because I cook the meal and my whole family meets at my sister’s house in New Jersey. (She has a professional kitchen too!)

My family is traditional- chestnut bread sage stuffing; roast turkey, sweet potato pie and all the trimmings kind of family. Don’t forget the gravy and cranberry sauce!My sister Jane is the baker and makes all the pies. We eat, laugh, and take pictures. All in all, it is a great day that I look forward to every year.

That is why, be it here at school or at your home, wherever that is; eat, drink and have gratitude for family even if it’s your classmates or close friends.

I am going to close with a passage that was shared with me by Chef Harwan that spells out the important things in life!

R eal F ood P lease

Photo Credit: Chef Freddy B

BY: Daniel Jaroz, BPS Culinary

My childhood can be described in two words fast food. A typical dinner for me consisted of a cheeseburger, a medium order of french fries, and a large Coca Cola. Sounds like a winner winner Burger King dinner, but in reality it was not satisfying. The scary part begs the question, where are the vegetables? The two pickles on the cheeseburger just do not cut it; fried potatoes do not count either. All this saturated and bastardized food is meant to taste good; that is why I was so hooked on it. As a child, trips to Burger King or McDonalds were a weekly event. I suppose one could argue a few adventurous and nutritional sacrilegious meeal are acceptable. Yet, I am compelled to ask, is there nothing better to eat in this world?

Quickly produced, highly processed foods may satisfy your cravings, but they contain virtually no nutritional value.

In fact, this convenient cuisine is jam-packed with salt and loaded with sugar. Sure, there are some real ingredients used in fast food, but the majority of seasonings and flavorings are artificial. You cannot sugar coat this food because there is nothing really spectacular cranking out of these kitchens. When is the last time you saw a grill at a McDonalds? Most ingredients lay weeks in the freezer somewhere beside the kitchen’s main source of heat: a microwave. Burgers are definitely frozen, not to mention immensely processed, but heated up to order as consumer walks through the door. Their chicken nuggets are a more tragic story involving slaughter houses and steroid chickens. Just go on Youtube and see for yourself; heads up it is quite disturbing. The truth hurts, especially when it comes to fast food.

The youth of today do not have access to the truth about fast food. This cuisine is geared towards kids, who are gullible to fall for the Ronald McDonald marketing character. It has been proven that Ronald McDonald is the second most recognized animated character, with only Santa beating him out believe it or not. Brilliant marketing and great business tactics draw children in effortlessly. The eater is sold when seeing a colorful commercial of a family digging into a

perfectly cooked, juicy cheeseburger with pickles and ketchup. He or she is tempted, or even brainwashed into getting a hold of it. It is evident that the youth of our generation are easy targets for the fast food industry. If animated characters are not enough, fast food joints even have slogans like, “I’m lovin it!” or, “Have it your way!” To make matters worse, once again slick and promising tactics are apparent. No wonder we find ourselves prone to visit the golden arches.

Another part of the issue is our quick paced society. As a whole we are all so busy with constant responsibilities. We all seek quick and

easy options because we are on intense schedules.

The notion of limited time leads one to trips down the drive thru for a fish fillet sandwich or crunchy chicken strips. For time’s sake, we make sacrifices; unfortunately they are health-provoking ones.

We must realize that easier is not always better.

Likewise, not all things bigger are better, so forget about the super-size options. No one should be drinking thirty-six ounces of soda or be devouring half a pound of French fries. Unfortunately, our society worships double or triple stacked burgers or twelve-piece chicken McNuggets. We simply never have enough. We are tempted to stuff our faces with as much food as we can get.

Our eyes light up as a bountiful platter of food appears, but our stomachs don’t. Studies show, smaller plates and putting less on your plate prevents overeating.

Eat smart!

A happy meal sounds almost as good as Christmas or the holidays. Doesn’t it read and sound happy? Indeed, the emotion arrives only during the purchase. After about an hour one is prone to feel nauseous, bloated, or hungry all over again.

What makes you think happiness can actually be purchased anyhow? Honestly, you are eating mystery food and there is nothing blissful about that. Quite frankly I’d rather eat honest and not chemically treated, say, chocolate! At least you know exactly what’s in it. Do yourself a favor and avoid fast food as much as possible. It will save you money on doctors, which will make you joyful in the long run. And there is one thing we all deserve, and that is to be happy. Eat smart and you will definitely feel good.

Photo Credit: www.addictions.com

LA PAPILLOTE

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S occer

BY: Chris Lyn, Head Coach-Soccer The Culinary Institute of America Soccer Team began their season with a slow start playing a tough opponent, Orange County Community College, away losing the game with a 4-0 loss. After a disappointing start the team rallied with three impressive victories against non conference opponents Dutchess Community College (4-0), The Cooper Union (5-0), and Vaughn College of Aeronautics (8-0). The next game of the season unfortunately was cancelled against Medgar Evers College on September 14th. In the next game the team travelled to Mount St Vincent and battled but fell short losing 2-0 in a hard fought match.

In late September the team played a series of mainly conference rivals setting up the stage for an entertaining and exciting post-season experience.

After beating Vaughn College of Aeronautics the team prepared for their next Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletic Conference foe, Kings College, winning the game 6-1 at home on September 22. The following weekend the team travelled to Berkeley College to face their nemesis. After missing several critical opportunities Berkeley College was able to capitalize on a late goal and led 1-0 at halftime. The CIA team fought long and hard to overcome their deficit but fell short after pressing the issue and exposing their defence giving Berkeley the opportunity to score a late goal and handing the CIA a 2-0 loss.

The beginning of October proved to be very successful for the team. On October 5th the team played Fisher College in a non conference match. The result was a 6-2 victory at home giving the team some momentum. The team then travelled to the Webb Institute in Long Island for another conference game. Although the impending weather forecast was bleak the team rose to the occasion beating Webb 8-0. Using the positive energy created in the prior two games the CIA soccer team matched up very well against St Joseph’s College, at their home field, beating them 6-0 and earning their second shutout in a row. The following day the team hosted Sarah Lawrence College for their next conference game. The CIA was in the lead 4-0 at halftime. SLC started the second half with an early goal showing signs

that they would not bow to the pressure. The CIA stepped up to the plate handing SLC a 7-1 loss by the end of the game.

Late in the season the CIA faced a very competitive conference rival.

On October 19th Albany College School of Pharmacy travelled to CIA to determine home field advantage in the Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletic Conference playoffs. Although the CIA held the advantage and momentum for the majority of the game Albany was able to score a goal with seven minutes remaining in the game which proved to be the difference.

CIA lost the game 1-0 and ended conference play 5-2 attaining the third seed in the conference tournament. In the last game of the season the team faced a non conference opponent Word of Life Bible Institute. In a game that went back and forth in lead changes the result ended in a 3-3 tie with CIA scoring in the last five minutes of the game.

After qualifying for the post season tournament the CIA soccer team matched up with the second seed, Albany School of Pharmacy, in Albany.

Although the CIA lead in every statistical category and controlled the majority of play, ASP scored a back breaking goal with 12 seconds remaining on the clock ending the season for the Steels.

Quote from Head Coach Chris Lyn: “I am very pleased with the teams’ performance this season! I am looking forward to building on the teams success and advancing further in the playoffs next year. We have a very talented and young team ready to return as seasoned veterans. I am excited at the prospects for next season and I’m anxious to get started. One promise that I will make to the CIA community...we will be ready! Thank you all for your kindness and support!!

L ady S teels V olleyball

BY: Jamie Floryan, Head Volleyball Coach The Lady Steels fought hard this season, ending their regular season with a 12-4 record- 3rd place in the HVIAC regular season and 3rd place in the HVIAC Tournament.

The Steels started off their season with a tri-match hosted by DIII school St. Elizabeth’s College in New Jersey- ending the day with a 1-1 record, the Steels had a good taste of what the season would consist of. A week later, the Steels entered another tri-match, against 2012’s HVIAC Tournament champions Sarah Lawrence and HVIAC team Medgar Evers. The Steels took home two wins that day which kicked off their eight game winning streak sweeping the competition 3-0 in each match.

The Steels’ first conference loss was to College of New Rochelle in a 0-3 (22-25, 23-25, 8-25) match. This loss brought them to a potential 3-way tie with HVIAC members CNR and St. Joseph’s of Brooklyn. They then battled their way through a 2-3 (20-25, 26-28, 25-19, 25-18, 5-15) loss against St. Joseph’s grabbing their 3rd place seed in the conference.

Through tough class schedules, limited practice time and the constant changes in the roster throughout the season, the girls pushed on and persevered- never letting the challenges stopping them from competing among the top teams in the league. The team had to adjust to six different changes in the roster in 12 short weeks, both gaining and losing some of our athletes. Out of the 16 matches played this season, only three matches consisted of the same line-up. In a fast-paced game like volleyball, sharing the court with five other individuals can be difficult enough, but when you are playing near new girls each week, it tends to add to the chaos. Trusting one another and communication are extremely important in this game- I think our captains (Kristin McGinn and Christine Gibson) did an excellent job keeping the girls close- both on and off the court- this season.

This season we say good-bye to seven senior players. Allison Penney and Christain Bagby- 4th year players; Krstin McGinn, Christine Gibson, Corrine Williams- 3rd year players; LaRae Willis2nd year player; Kathryn Ritter- 1st year player. These girls have all made such a huge impact on this volleyball program. The program is so young, that these first three successful years really set the bar for years to come. We have at least five returning student-athletes, which means there is a lot of room for newcomers next year. I know that Bar & Grill my returning athletes will ! do their best to carry on the hard And... Make sure to work, dedication and team moral remove this coupon for that my seniors helped instill in $1.00 off ANY taco! them.

November 26, 2013

Continued from page 1 “Just Take a Deep Breath”

Luckily, the only aspect of the cake that had to be completed was piping the pearls that trailed up the cake, and sparkle, adding some shimmer and color. After painting the last of the pearls, I almost let out a shriek of excitement. Having the attention span of a two-year-old boy, I was too excited not to stack it in the bakeshop to see what the final product would look like.

Just take a deep breath. I took a step back and a tear nearly came to my eye, as I hugged my partner in euphoria.

I felt really confident about the cake for the first time since I started working on it. There were many moments during this experience, where I wanted to throw everything away or just smash the flowers on the table and start over. Just take a deep breath. The Chefs were elated with the showpiece, which only made me more excited for the next day to arrive!

Once the pieces were stored safely away in the office, it was time to nap.

Unfortunately, adrenaline and anxiety took control, and I could not sleep for more than five minutes. Before I arrived at school at midnight, to help load up the van, I drank some coffee and took a deep breath. The van was filled with the showpieces and the bus was filled with excitement, exhaustion, and the ten-inch ring of flowers on my lap. Again, sleeping on the bus ride to the city was out of the question, with every single bump giving me more anxiety as I stared at the ring throughout the entire duration of the ride. Somehow nothing on the ring broke. After arriving at the Javits Center, we awaited the confirmation to go in and start setting up. Just take a deep breath.

The convention center is definitely a grand place. We were one of the first to arrive and we started setting up the table, which was to look like an old-fashioned bakery. It was a half circle with a platform in the center with a window directly behind it. To add more pressure, the cake would be displayed on the platform in the center. Just take a deep breath. Now the time has arrived to start setting up. Having the simplest final prep of all the groups, stacking, I was going to be done very quickly. Unfortunately, a few things that were not held preciously on my lap had broken on the way to the City. Luckily, I did have a few extra flowers to cover up some bare spots and the stacking began. Just take a deep breath.

As I put the ring on the cake, which was the focal point, I noticed something terrible; it was off center. It was probably not even an inch off, but after putting so many hours in this, I was not about to settle for a few centimeters off center. Dean Vaccaro and Matt Waldron took off the ring and the glue that was holding it on the piece of plexi glass. My heart was racing the entire time, and then I just started to feel nauseous.

So many thoughts raced through my head, “What if the ring dropped?

What if they could not get the entire flue off? What if someone cut themselves

C ross C ountry

ON CAMPUS

5

in trying to take the glue off?” Just take a deep breath.

After ten minutes, and what had felt like an hour, they were successfully able to take off all the glue, and we were ready to try again. This time, I asked Dean Vaccaro to stack the ring and the topper, since I was shaking too much. Just take a deep breath. At this point, that was all I needed to do to be finished, but I could not. The thought of something breaking raced through my head, and I felt like I was going to throw up, pass out, or have an anxiety attack.

The cake was stacked and my two partners looked at me and smiled, but I could not. I hated the cake. In fact, I wanted to start to bawl in the convention center of disgust. I know we were not in a kitchen, but I still felt that the “no crying in a kitchen” rule still applied here, especially with the other chefs and students working on finishing up their show pieces. I ended up taking a walk, tried to take a deep breath and avoid crying.

I found a comfortable couch and took a small nap to try and clear my head. I walked back to the table, and it all started to come together, and I looked at the cake on the platform, the cake I worked on, the cake I designed, and spent so many hours on, the cake I put in so much effort in, and finally took a deep breath and smiled. It looked lovely!

The table was set with innovative, creative, and beautiful showpieces of chocolate, sugar, and bread, and it was time to pack up. I stayed back to attend the show and relax and enjoy the magic of the city.

I finally went to bed at 9 p.m. on Sunday after being up since 5 a.m. on Saturday, with a feeling of bliss. Now it was in the judges’ hands. Take a deep breath.

The Culinary Institute of America was, as always, victorious, receiving first place blue ribbons, and a best in show in the Specialty Cake Category, as well as Sugar and Bread catagories made by Chef Rossomando and students.

I was over-joyed getting a first prize blue ribbon, but a small part of me was going to miss working on the cake each and every day, after having class and work. As I see the cake being displayed in the Apple Pie Bakery & Café, with the blue ribbon next to it, it gives me a feeling of exuberance. I know this is what makes me happy, and it makes me more hopeful and more determined to become a cake designer and create wedding cakes to see the bride and groom’s happiness.

This was definitely an unforgettable experience. My two partners, Marisa Negro and Ahram Song, are two of the most talented young women I had the honor of working with. It was a privilege to learn from them, and none of this would have been possible without them. I cannot wait to work on another cake, and I hope soon, it will be for a bride or groom that is someone special to me.

BY: Michael Murphy, Senior Coordinator of Fitness and Intramural Sports What a season it was. The second day back from summer break and the 2013 CIA cross country team started practice. It was a blazing hot summer day and 16 strangers came together to represent the CIA. The team had one runner return from last year and she was graduating in October, before the season would end. You may have heard her name before, Jackie DeGrandpre, the three time defending conference women’s champion!

It was a Wednesday night and we were practicing at 9:15pm and the team started out by running around campus six times for a total of six miles. The team ran around campus as Coach Murphy rode back and forth on his bike so he could monitor the fastest and emerging runners. After the six miles were completed, the team transitioned into the pool and did some aqua jogging, much to their dismay. After 45 minutes of aqua jogging the team was exhausted. It was a very productive first night of practice.

As we moved forward with our practices, the team was split into three categories; a group for the advanced, B group for the intermediates and C group for the beginners. The team practiced six days a week, however, I practiced with them three times a week. This took a lot of self discipline for these athletes to go out and run on their own. Each week they were challenged with maintenance runs, fartleks, tempo, hill repeats, threshold and race day scenarios. Each training run was designed to achieve a different outcome to prepare them for each meet. These runs would eventually get each runner in the best shape by the time the championships took place on Octobr 20th.

I must say that I was pleased with the commitment and positive attitude of the team. Whether training in the scorching heat, rain or at night, they were always positive and supported one another. It was a pleasure to see this team come so far from day one on July 31, to the championship meet on October 20. So please, when you see Cayla Taylor, Brianna Gross, Valerie Claunch, Bruna Armbrust, Carly Turow, Megan Pielli, Grant Rico, Matt Lipnick, Matt Lorman, Conner Rand, Joey Luecken, Jason Sedgwick and Orel Anbar ( by the way Orel Anbar Placed 1st overall in the cross country championships with a time of 27:04-8k) be sure to congratulate them. What a season it was!

Any one interested in participating on the team next year can contact Mike Murphy at the SRC (845) 451-1405 or e-mail mi_murph@culinary.edu.

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LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

Center I ntuitive E ating BY:Anna Ungricht, AOS Baking and Pastry About two years ago, in Utah, I participated in a wellness program about intuitive eating. What is intuitive eating? Well, in the most basic explanation, it is to eat when you are hungry, stop when you are full, and do not eat when you are not hungry.

Sounds so easy doesn’t it? But, how many of you have actually consciously thought about being hungry? Then, stopping to pay attention to when you are full? Are you snacking because you are just slightly hungry or because you are bored?

Intuitive eating serves to develop a healthy relationship with food and an understanding of you and your personal needs. Each person has a way they eat, developed during childhood, influenced by media, friends and family. Growing up, I developed an unhealthy relationship with food. I saw it as bad, a cause for guilt and shame. It has taken years to see food as just food, to throw away food when I do not want it anymore, and not feel bad about throwing it away.

In the book, Intuitive Eating: A Revolutionary Program That Works

by Evelyn Tribole and Elyse Resch, there is a list of different types of eaters, and everyone falls into at least one category, sometimes more than one.

The careful eater- someone who watches every single bite of food The unconscious eater- they are unaware either of the fact they are eating or does not realize how much they are eating. Eating is usually done while participating in another activity, such as watching TV, studying, or hanging with friends.

The chaotic unconscious eater- eat when food is available, and usually on the run.

Refuse- Not unconscious eaterA person that will eat food whenever it is present.

Waste-not unconscious eater- Value eater, someone who wants to get the most out their money and food.

Emotional unconscious eater- someone who eats when there is an emotional trigger.

Professional eater- the constant dieter, always trying the latest diet.

Intuitive eater- Someone who eats when hungry, respects being full, and just enjoys food.

A person can fit into just one or all types of eating habits in any given circumstance. Our lives are busy and chaotic, sometimes we have time to dedicate what and when to eat, but most of the time we do not. It can be hard because our lives revolve around food; it is not only what we have to do, but it’s our passion, desire and livelihood.

During classes we work with food just as much as we talk about how to transform food from something ordinary to something extraordinary to create a memorable experience for the eater. Sometimes we are constantly putting food into our mouths, and not thinking about it at all. At what point do we go from tasting to eating? We need to try the food we make.

For everyone, it is different. I’m in Individual Pastries and Production and some days I’m sneaking in the dessert with every chance that I get not because I’m hungry but because the food is so good and I just want relish in the fact I made something amazing, to prolong the pleasure it gives me. After class, I do feel guilty for my over indulgence, but the next day I do the same thing.

Food is our focus, the reason for this school, and our debt. When we eat, we understand the pleasure food provides. When we eat, is there thought about if we are truly hungry? If yes, are you going to listen to your body and only eat what you need? Do you know when your body is full? Is the environment helping you to eat healthy? (Probably not, you

are in culinary school after all.)

The intuitive eating program focuses on internalizing the dialog with food. There are ten principles to help develop that dialog.

The first is Reject the Diet Mentality. Do not ever go on a diet again.

Why? Well, diets trigger overeating. How many times have you thought to yourself, “I’m not going to eat that….maybe just one bite…and then end up eating way more than you wanted. It happens all the time. It is a vicious cycle.

Honor your Hunger. When you diet and deprive your body of food, it not only triggers hunger but also psychological drives, as well. Food is so essential when the body is deprived, our primal mechanisms focus on gaining the food necessary for survival.

Make peace with food- Give yourself permission to eat and nothing is off limits. It is a little scary and hard to accept, but it is freeing. Not having “off limit” food helps to prevent the trigger to overeating. If a food is off limits, it becomes a trigger, or an obsession. By not allowing any food to be off limits then, there won’t be triggers.

Challenge the Food Police, that voice in your head you argue with, or feeling “good” about depriving yourself or feeling you deserve a consequence for eating something you felt was “bad”.

For some, the act of eating becomes an issue of morality, bringing up the same feeling of guilt and lying or stealing.

We are inundated with “no-guilt” types of food, such as fat-free, sugar-free, 100 calorie packs, and so on. We lose the sense that food is just that, food. It is necessary for life, and can be enjoyed, and meant to be enjoyed.

Feel your fullness, pay attention to what your body is telling you. With food, it becomes hard to feel. We either eat everything in front of us, or we deprive ourselves so much we do not understand what our bodies are telling us. It takes a little training to understand if the body is full or not and if hunger is Photo Credit: l.yimg.com what you are feeling or not.

Discover the Satisfaction Factor. Enjoy your food. Food is meant to be enjoyed; it is why we are here. Take time to savor the food. When we search for happiness, we are told to go and do what we enjoy, why is this different for food?

Cope with your emotions without using food. Food will not fix our emotional issues. Food may offer a small immediate comfort, but in the end food causes many more emotional issues that solving them.

Respect your body. One of the hardest ideas to accept is simply to accept who you are, and your genetics that come with it. I will never be supermodel thin, as much as I wish I would, it will never happen. Every person has a different type of body. Some can lose weight easily and some can not. It is the way it is.

Exercise- feel the difference. This means to focus on more about being active than how many calories are being burned. Exercise should be fun.

When the focus changes from burning as many calories to feeling good, the motivation becomes easier.

Honor your health. It matters more about consistency than about eating one snack, or eating a piece of cake, or going to a party.

This sounds easy, but it is not, it takes work. The most important idea is to develop a good relationship with food. Eating “consistently” has been hard for me. All of the desserts that are available, plus the rigidity of eating times I find that are being offered, and I ignore what my body needs. With school, work, and RA duties I am the chaotic eater. I do work on only eating when I’m hungry, and stopping when I am not. I am not perfect. The Intuitive Eating program is not for the perfect eater because there is no such thing.

November 26, 2013

7

Spread F riends , N ot F ood

BY: Abby Gilkey, AOS Culinary When I was in elementary school, I began taking horseback riding lessons.

I stuck with it until I was seventeen, trained horses, and even had horses of my own that I loved to death. I wouldn’t wish anything horrible upon them because I loved them so much. One day, I remember hearing my older sister telling me about how her friend brought horse meat to school for lunch. I was absolutely horrified. “She’s a monster,” was all I could think.

I was shocked, and disgusted, that someone could eat what I considered so important to me.

Roughly a year later, money started to get really tight for my family and others. I had to sell my horses, which was a huge struggle.

I heard about other people situations and how they kept their horses but could barely take care of them. This resulted in the horses becoming malnourished and ultimately being mistreated and murdered in slaughterhouses.

This was a huge controversy for people, because it was hard to watch their pets suffer, but even harder to let them be murdered.

Which is the bigger sin: the neglect of an animal that is your responsibility to care for... or slaughtering that same animal, your friend, Photo for food? It’s a controversial topic, at the very least.

For some, it’s simple. They see that animal as not a friend, but as a means of surviving. Humans have to eat, of course. For these people, meat is simply meat. Animals aren’t friends at all. They’re food. However, for others, it can be a tad bit more complicated. They would consider both of these acts monstrous, immoral, traitorous, or even gruesome - depending on how the animal is slaughtered. It is a tear jerker for those of us in society that love our trusted animal companions. We have pets: dogs, cats, horses, etc. (The list goes on and on!) People become so attached to animals, and develop a friendship or a bond with them, that can be irreplaceable.

But what happens when you love that animal so much that you can’t even let them go? Money is tight. People struggle everyday to feed themselves and their families. If that alone is a struggle, then how can someone feed a pet in addition to themselves? They can’t. So the animal is neglected.

Despite what you think, not every neglected animal is abused because of someone who has a twisted sense of humor. It’s actually much worse. There

are a number of things someone can be, but when they’re running out of money they’re most definitely 1) Selfish and 2) Desperate.

It’s an internal battle. To sell your best friend to a slaughterhouse and never see them again, or let a couple meals pass them by while you’re worrying about that check that just bounced? Nobody wants to go through this, and yet people do. So what happens? Of course, most animals get neglected by their owners. It’s not morally correct to slaughter your best friend! But, is it right to watch them starve to death in your backyard? America has developed this perspective of animal companionship, while other countries are leaning towards the other end of the spectrum. Pets in America are considered food in other countries.

Horses are a great example of this. Of course, other countries use horses for sports and pleasure riding, but when it comes to be that time where the horse has run out of its use, then it is used for food. But, in America, it is highly unusual to use horse meat for human consumption The carcass tends to become cat food, as opposed to human food. Why? Well, horses - like dogs and cats - are friends. People ride them, train them, and compete with them in competitions... but to eat them!

Credit: allposters.com What? No! That’s unheard of. You can’t eat your best friend!

Then again, in other countries, that’s okay. In other countries, horses aren’t somebody’s best friend. They’re just another animal, or another carcass when the animal has passed. Which means, it’s another mouth in that country that has been fed.

So, in America, people struggle to feed their families, and at the same time they struggle to feed their pets. It’s a huge dilemma that people face... but could it be avoided? Could starving animals be avoided across America if we utilized them as food instead of watching them suffer?

Or is that asking for too much? People develop such emotional bonds to animals so maybe it would disgust Americans or gross them out – just as it did when I was younger.

You have to think about the big picture, though, and ask yourself what the bigger crime is - selling your pet to slaughter, or murdering them yourself through neglect.

U nder P ressure

BY: Natasha White, AOS Baking and Pastry Externship. For those who have not completed it, like myself, the word is intimidating to say the least. Where we want to go, who we want to work for, where we are going to live, and of course, if we can afford to not get paid are all important questions that have to be answered sooner rather than later.

Anybody and everybody will offer you their own advice, given the chance. Most people will tell you not to go back home. Many will tell you to try for a big city. Some will tell you to definitely take an unpaid big name if you can afford it, and everybody has a strong opinion about whether or not you should work for the mouse with the big ears.

Clearly, there is no shortage of advice to heed, no drought of tips and how-to’s. Forgive me, but I would like to share with you one more; relax. Be yourself. Okay so maybe that was two things, but the point stands. Sure, you may get rejected, but if being yourself is what loses you the job, you wouldn’t have been happy there anyway. Being happy where you work might not seem like such a big deal if you are working for a famous chef that could possibly open up doors for your career later on, but don’t be so quick to sacrifice your happiness for prestige. Enjoying not just your work, but your workplace, can really make sure you put the most in, and get the most out of your months away from campus.

I am still early into my CIA career, so I only recently went on my first cold call to drop off a resume. I had read, edited, and re-read my resume and cover letter to death. I even got business cards printed, and carefully paper-clipped one to my packet. I perfected my outfit, decided that I hated it, changed, then perfected that outfit. I put my papers in a nice folder, stepped out of the building in NYC that I was staying in, only to find dismal little raindrops coming down. That sight alone was almost enough to send me back inside to safety. Obviously the rain was a terrible omen, clearly it wasn’t meant to be! But somehow I managed to walk into the subway station, even though my stomach dropped a little with each step. The whole ride I tapped my foot on the tile and couldn’t sit still. When I finally made

it to my destination, I became thankful for the rain, otherwise I might have had to pace in front of the entrance a few times before going in. I smiled, though my nerves probably made it look more like a grimace. By some miracle, I managed to introduce myself, hand over Photo Credit: rivercitystaffing.com my papers, and say, “Okay, thank you,” when told to follow up with an email. I didn’t even trip on the way out!

Finally, I could breathe again, my lungs remembered how to take in air and my stomach untwisted itself from the knot that it had turned into. It didn’t last though, because, to be honest, the most stress came from the waiting. You can control, to a certain extent, the introduction. You cannot control how long it takes for you to hear back. I’ll admit, by the second day, I started to panic. By the third, I was wondering if I should email again, after all, maybe they hadn’t seen my first one. By the fourth day, I decided that I sucked and I had no chance of their email ever arriving. But, that night, when I had stopped expecting it, an email came in! Hallelujah! Maybe I don’t suck after all. Granted, I still have to get through my interview unscathed, but let’s take this one step at a time.

Okay, so I realize that I didn’t take my own advice and relax at all, but it is not too late for you. Relax. It will all be okay in the end. Let’s just all try to get there with minimal gray hairs. Even if you, reading this, are post-extern and looking back on your interview stress wistfully, you could benefit from this advice. You are about to go out into the dreaded ‘real world,’ which comes with a whole new set of introductions and interviews. Remember, take deep breaths, practice introducing yourself, practice smiling without seeming to be in bodily pain. Get together a solid resume and cover letter, and make sure you have at least one other person proofread for you as well. Do your research, dress professionally, but above all, relax. And smile, because it is all going to be okay.

LA PAPILLOTE

8

F armer ’ s M arket F inds BY: Alexis Harrington, AOS Culinary The season is getting so unfortunately colder. I have anemia, so my fingers and toes get extremely cold, very fast. Also, all the plants die. I hate the winter with a passion. It was an incredibly rainy and dreary day at the farmers market today, and I was rushing to do some other errands. So, I decided to do what all the best cooks do, I used food to make the day seem a little brighter. The recipe I am sharing with you guys is a lighter pasta dish that I came up with back in Michigan for those cooler summer nights. This was a huge hit with my family. My mother’s boyfriend is from Argentina, and his mother was from Italy. With one bite of the pesto, he gasped and exclaimed, “This pasta tastes of Argentina.”

Photo Credit: Alexis Harrington

Sage Basil Pesto Makes about 2 cups • 25 small Fresh sage leaves • 1/4 cup pine nuts • 3/4 cup olive oil • 1 cup fresh basil • 1/2 cup parmesean • 2 tbsp garlic 1. Cut all the stems off your herbs.

2. Toast your pine nuts in an oven set at 325 for 5-10 minutes. Be very cautious as to not burn them.

3. Blend all the ingredients in a food processor or a blender.

4. Now that you have your pesto, and hopefully you haven’t eaten most of it with a spoon, *ehem* on to the “meat” of the dish.

Fettuccine with Wild Mushroom and Sage Pesto Serves 4 • 3/4 cup Chanterelle Mushrooms (which are common in Michigan, but you can use any wild mushroom you like.)

• 2 cups of fresh spinach • 1 Tbs Garlic, minced • 1 cup of Crimini caps + olive oil for sauteing • 1 lb fresh pasta • Parmesan, as needed • ½ cup white wine • 1 1/2 cup Sage Basil Pesto, see above 1. Begin a pot of water to boil your noodles. A rule of thumb is to use 1 gallon of water for every pound of noodles. Make sure you add salt. And stir regularly, to prevent them from sticking.

2. In a large sauté pan, (the largest you have,) sauté the baby Crimini caps and garlic in Olive oil.

3. Once the mushrooms are soft, add the fresh spinach and let cook down until wilted.

4. Deglaze with the white wine.

5. Once the wine has almost completely evaporated, add the chanterelles. Cook these until heated through.

6. While your veggies and fungi are cooking, throw the pasta into your gallon of boiling water and cook for 3-5 minutes.

7. Once the pasta is done, drain and transfer it to the pan with the veggies and fungi. Finally, add your pesto and mix until every noodle is coated with delicious creamy pesto.

8. Transfer portions to your favorite plates or bowls and garnish with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.

Continued from page 1 “Bean to Bar” The concept is quite possibly even harder than the execution. Often times Chef and Dean Vaccaro would say, “You know your concept is probably going to change a few times during the process, and the final product will most likely only slightly resemble the original design.” And it’s true! So very true! Like most art, a piece of this nature is like a moving target.

It’s a work in progress, it’s a, “Well, I spent two weeks planning and making this one element, but now that I hold it up to this one other piece, it seems out of place,” kind of thing. Creating the chocolate showpiece was such an incredible task. I learned things that I would have never known before without having done a showpiece like this.

It wasn’t that straightforward really, the concept, the design, the execution.

It was like someone gave me a puzzle set disassembled, with pieces of other puzzle sets in the mix and no image of the completed solution. I had to put the puzzle together based on what looks right, what fits, and what works.

And the other pieces got 86’ed. It’s that simple, and that complicated at the same time.

However difficult, the showpiece was worth every second, every temper test, every crystallization check, every mold pour, every early morning in the bakeshop. And I could not have even imagined accomplishing such a feat without the help of my partner, Caitlin Englert (rawr! chocolate dinosaurs!). Often working on less than four hours of sleep, we learned an incredible amount of technical applications to showpiece work while battling insomnia.

And when it came time for competition, for the delivery, for the finish line, everything was as smooth as properly made ganache. When someone says, “I’m going to make a six and a half foot tall, fifty-plus pound chocolate sculpture,” most often, the answer is, “Good luck!”. But it happened! A gloriously tall chocolate paddle stood out of a bowl made out of nothing to support it other than pure chocolate and eighteen inches of a broken yard stick.

Assembly was clearly the most nerve-racking part of the entire show.

Thankfully, the milk chocolate paddle did not fracture or break during its travels, and with the help of freeze spray, stood beautifully in its matching bowl. The entire showpiece was quite baffling, really. I didn’t fully grasp what had happened until we left the show. Reality didn’t even sink in much when the piece was completed. Relief, however, did sink in heavy once the table was clean and the showpiece brushed ever so carefully with a tiny paint brush. It was perfect in my eyes, no matter what everyone else thought of it. I was simply glad to finish, and considered it one of my greatest accomplishments at the CIA, all before judging.

Judging, though, did go pretty well. Gold medal and first place is pretty good, so I’m told. It’s nice to be recognized for such a crazy amount of work, but I really believe it wasn’t the true take-away of the experience.

When we arrived at four in the morning in NYC to set up, we approached the Javits Center from out of the tunnel and I saw a billboard out front of the center; it was one of the only billboards lit up in the area, as it was still dark. I don’t quite know what company the ad was for, but it simply read, “1.) Think of an idea. 2.) Make it happen.”

And that, that billboard alone, spoke for the entire experience of the food show. Tasks like it are all about dreaming big, shooting way too far into the sky, and landing perfectly on your toes. I don’t consider the medal the best part, not by far. I simply know I thought of an idea, and I made it happen.

Again, I can not thank Caitlin, Chef, Dean Vaccaro, and all of the other faculty members at the college that helped us with the showpiece enough.

Even the nurse helped by giving us cotton balls to polish chocolate molds.

The people of CIA are truly what I’ll always remember about the food show!

November 26, 2013

FOOD & BEVERAGE

9

C hef M igoya BY: Anthony Young, AOS Baking and Pastry

If you find yourself anything like ninety-nine percent of the student body will be working to represent and display these items. here at The Culinary, you’re probably pretty familiar with the cookbook Of course, leaving the CIA was not an easy decision to make for Chef Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. You would also know Migoya, who described the school as a “great place to work at.” Among that it’s regarded as the culinary Bible in many circles (not a culinary Bible, his countless notable achievements, he was named CIA Faculty Member of the culinary Bible), you know that it explores how food works scientifically the Year in 2007 and, needless to say, has had a huge impact on the success and why it works, you know that it explains of the school. Many students, especially those in everything from molecular gastronomy and the Culinary Science program, will be upset to see immersion circulators to the pinnacle of Chef Migoya leave, an idea that to him is both perfect hamburgers and macaroni and cheese, flattering and the main reason he considered not and you know that when thumbing through a leaving the CIA. However, Chef wants the student copy, you feel unworthy of feasting your eyes body to know that the opportunity to contact him on such magnificent photography of kitchen will always be present, not to mention he will equipment cut in half that you prefer to wear a still be a part of the Culinary Science Board at pair of gloves and sunglasses to shield yourself. the school. He, “Hope[s] that people aren’t shy What you may not know is that one of our very to reach out,” and just because he is across the own faculty is about to embark on what he has country, “Doesn’t mean [he’ll] never come back to called one of the most important opportunities the CIA.” Chef explained that he loves bestowing he’s had in his career. Chef Migoya, currently his knowledge upon students at the CIA and would Professor of Culinary Science, will leave the willingly help out any students in need. He made CIA in December to begin his work as Head a point of saying that if he knew ten years ago what Chef of the new Modernist Cuisine series. he knows now, he couldn’t imagine how far ahead I had the opportunity to sit and speak he would be, which is why he is so willing to open with Chef Migoya about his latest venture, the door to any curious students. and he shared his thoughts on the matter.

In speaking with Chef Migoya, I asked what Back in June, Chef Migoya was contacted by pieces of advice he would have for those aspiring a recruiter from Intellectual Ventures, the for success in the area of culinary science. He company which owns Modernist Cuisine. It stressed the importance of, “Having it in you to was an unexpected and exciting call to action, want to know...you need to want to know.” The and soon after, Chef was meeting with Nathan library on campus is a huge resource for any Myhrvold himself, co-founder of Intellectual concentration of the culinary arts imaginable, and Ventures and principal author of Modernist an extremely underused luxury to have. Chef Cuisine, about the possibility of joining the recommended going out of your way and read these Photo Credit: ciachef.edu books and use them to gain knowledge outside of team for a new project. Eventually in October, after meeting the staff in a large warehouse-type building in Washington state the classroom, especially in specific topics you find interesting. Success, he (where the book was written and developed), performing a demonstration said, is achieved by reading and doing, practicing, and working hard. Those on brioche and laminated dough, and being treated to a seven-course are basic guidelines to follow, and if every student were to follow them it Modernist Cuisine-inspired meal, he was offered the opportunity to be would be a powerful force in the world of education and work.

Head Chef to undertake the construction of the next books.

The last question I had for Chef Migoya was whether he considered These next books will cover the areas of baking and pastry. The project himself as more of a pastry chef, baker, or culinary scientist. Interestingly could take anywhere from two to ten years to complete, where Chef will enough, he doesn’t want to look at himself as any of those because he believes work with four kitchen workers as well as photographers. The warehouse in striving to be the most well-rounded person possible. He emphasized where all of the work will happen is a true Mecca for culinary science and that people in the industry have to understand who they are and what their experimentation; it is a workplace designed for learning about, researching, job is and figuratively “speak many languages” in the kitchen. Of course, and creating the pinnacle of any food imaginable.

Chef Migoya has had an overwhelming amount of success in all three of In speaking with Chef Migoya, he made it a point to mention that the these areas of work and it will surely continue in Washington with his latest driving force in his decision was not the money involved, and the book itself endeavor. is not written to make money for the company. To Chef, this opportunity Chef Migoya left me with one last piece of knowledge before the is a once in a lifetime chance to add to the legacy of twenty-first century conclusion of our interview; it is a quote from Yoda which I assured him cuisine. In his own words, he “would be a fool” to not want to be involved would be included in this article, a quote that speaks volumes about his in such a massive project. The series itself is devoted to representing ideals in terms of work ethic and perseverance: “Do or do not, there is no perfection in every food item relevant in modern culture, and Chef Migoya try.”

LA PAPILLOTE

10

G r aduation S peaker : R ick T r amonto Executive Chef and Co-Owner Restaurant R’evolution

Provided by: Shelly Loveland, Coordinator Rick Tramonto is executive chef and co-owner of Restaurant R’evolution, located in the Royal Sonesta Hotel in the French Quarter of New Orleans, LA. He and Chef John Folse opened the restaurant in 2012. Chef Tramonto was previously founding partner and executive chef for 11 years at Chicago’s world-renowned fourstar restaurant Tru, in partnership with Rich Melman of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.

The Rochester, NY native dropped out of high school and entered the restaurant world to help support his family. He started at Wendy’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers and moved on to become grill/sauté cook at the Scotch ’N Sirloin.

He then learned the techniques of classic French cuisine under the tutelage of Chef Greg Broman at the Strathallen Hotel.

Young and ambitious, Chef Tramonto moved to New York in the early 1980s, where he

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worked at the legendary Tavern on the Green.

From there, he joined Chef Alfred Portale ’81 at his Gotham Bar & Grill as line cook. He was part of the brigade awarded three stars by The New York Times. He also worked under Chef Gerard Pangaud at Aurora. In the late ’80s, Chef Tramonto was brought to Chicago by Rich Melman to work at Avanzare and Scoozi!, and went on to open and work at several other Lettuce Entertain You establishments.

After a stint at Charlie Trotter’s, he received a call from Bob Payton, CEO and founder of My Kinda Town Ltd. in London, which operated multiple American-concept restaurants throughout the United Kingdom and Europe.

Mr. Payton asked Chef Tramonto to transform the kitchen and cuisine at his award-winning country-house hotel Stapleford Park in Leicestershire, outside London. Chef Tramonto accepted the opportunity, and Stapleford Park was awarded the Michelin Guide’s coveted Red “M.” Tramonto then teamed up again with Bob Payton to do the reopening of the famous Criterion Brasserie in Picadilly Circus, London.

After that, he apprenticed with some of the world’s greatest chefs, including Pierre Gagnaire, Anton Mosimann, Michel Guérard, Raymond Blanc, and Alain Chapel.

When Chef Tramonto returned to Chicago in the early 1990s, he partnered with Gale Gand and Henry Adaniya to open Trio in Evanston, IL. The restaurant was an immediate triumph, earning four-star ratings from the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times, and Chicago magazine, and he was honored as one of Food

& Wine’s Best New Chefs in 1994. He and Chef Gand then went on to open Brasserie T, and the pair reunited with Rich Melman to launch Tru in 2000. With Tru, they regained four-star status with the Chicago Tribune, Sun-Times, and Chicago magazine, as well as a Michelin Red “M” and a four-star Mobil rating. Chef Tramonto received several individual awards as well, including the James Beard Award for Best Chef, Midwest in 2002. In 2005, he and Chef Gand founded Cenitare Restaurants, LLC and the following year debuted four concepts for the Westin North Shore Hotel in Wheeling, IL. Chef Tramonto is an accomplished author with a memoir and seven cookbooks to his credit, including Butter Sugar Flour Eggs, which was a nominee for a James Beard Award in 2000, and American Brasserie, a finalist in the Julia Child Cookbook Awards.

He is active in his church and supports a number of charities, including Feed the Children and Angel Tree. Chef Tramonto lives in the Chicago area with his wife and three sons.

AOS Graduating Class of November 26. 2013 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front: Jonathan Musto Daniel Richgliano Jr. Justin Villarieal Haya Emaan Ismail Pichaya Utharntharm Matthew Travers

Back: Cierra Cannon Jeremy Conneville Zach Kue Jun Ho Yoo Joe Fidler Casey Perez

Culinary Arts Group #2 Front: Pasavit Meekhunsut Amanda Klee Yujung Jeon Leah Rizzo Charlie Weiutrach

Back: Stacy Pearson Ryan Shaffner Jonghwi Lim Michael Howard Seunghun Kim

Culinary Arts Group #3 Front: Kate Erci Katherine Guarascio Daniel Schneider Heather Tomory Gabrielle Nielson

Baking and Pastry Andrew Belen Clara Cogswell Taylor D’Argenio P eter Engle Eric Hernandez Taylor Hutson

Michael Jacobs Hadley Jouflas Giovanni Living Gina Nalbone Taylor Pritekel Patricia Ybarra Rachel Young

Back: Andrew Jeong Chris Vetto Sam Ramer Josh Zimmerman Patricia Kanp

POT LUCK

November 26, 2013

A S easonal R etreat

11

BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary

About a few weeks ago, I took a trip home to visit my family and friends.

My stepmom’s birthday was in October and I couldn’t wait to surprise her with a homemade birthday dinner unlike any other. I also couldn’t wait to see some of my friends that I had left back home. I had been asked to join a few of my childhood friends on their trip to one of the local apple orchards in upstate New York. I was so excited to return home and experience what epitomizes New York, sweet crisp apples.

Driving home from college, I was smiling from ear to ear. Never in my life had I been so excited to be in my hometown. I loved growing up in Upstate New York but by the time graduation came, I was ready to experience something new, something different. After having a taste of college, I longed to return home for a visit. When the first long weekend came, I jumped at the chance to return.

When I planned my stepmom’s dinner, I knew that something had to be different about this meal. Being away at culinary school, I knew that expectations for my cooking would be higher. For the past few months I’ve lived all things culinary. I knew that this meal had to be that much better as to show off my newly acquired skills. I know that my family wouldn’t have cared what I was serving, they were simply happy to be eating as a family again. With that said, I knew that they each were hoping to have their taste buds dazzled.

Growing up in upstate New York, apple orchards were everywhere.

Returning home in October meant taking a trip to the orchard to be a part of the magic. My childhood home even had a row of crab apple trees lining the street. When I was small, I would retreat to the comfort of the trees’ branches after a long day. I would stare at the worm-infested apples, annoyed at their imperfections. They smelled so delicious and the trees were so beautiful. The apples were always inedible though, leaving my hunger unfulfilled.

On my beautiful drive home, I stopped at a local Hudson Valley farm stand. Surrounded by such fresh, quality ingredients, I was inspired. With all of my thoughts, and now ingredients pointing me toward something seasonal, I decided to create a beautifully simplistic harvest feast. I prepared stuffed pork tenderloin with herbs, apples and onions, roasted Brussels sprouts and butternut squash, sautéed spinach with golden raisins and apples, rosemary mashed potatoes, and sourdough bread from CIA’s Apple Pie Bakery. This feast would surely please my autumn vegetable loving stepmother and my meat and potatoes loving father. I knew that this meal was a success. I could tell by my family’s empty plates that they were impressed. Joyfully, I gave my stepmom the best gift of all, a home cooked meal with family.

The next day, a group of friends and I took a drive to Reisinger’s Apple Country, a local apple orchard, to pick our own fresh apples. Walking through the orchard we were able to find perfect Empire, Jonagold, Cameo, Ida Red, and Mutsu apples. We were even able to pick the last of the raspberries for the season. Seeing these fruits in their most natural form was

such a breathtaking view. It reminds me that when simplicity is masterfully executed, you are carrying out the destiny of those ingredients. It was this very concept that had inspired my cooking the night before.

Walking through the orchard, my mind flashed back to my childhood retreat. I was a child once again, careless among the fruit. The sweet smell of ripening apples filled my nose. Their colorful skin decorated the trees like ornaments. The raspberries were ripe with memories as well. Their burst of juicy tartness brought me back to my grandmother’s garden. It was as if she were at my side picking those perfect berries.

Seasonality was more than evident at Reisinger’s. The autumn air was warm yet crisp. The sun shined through the leaves, reflecting off the shining fruits. Pumpkins lined the walkway for children to carefully choose before carving expressive portraits.

Empty watermelon crates hid in the back, revealing the clear end of summer.

When you purchase your harvest, you are directed to a magnificent gift shop. The warm sugary aroma of apple cider doughnuts being freshly made hit your nose as you opened the door. Their homemade apple butter was displayed with samples available, making it impossible to pass on. Its spiced apple flavor was so warm and sweet. I just couldn’t leave without buying a jar. With apples, raspberries, and apple butter all in hand, I made my way back to the car. Needless to say it was a successful trip to Reisinger’s Apple Country.

All too quickly my weekend came to an end.

It was a bittersweet return back to school Photo Credit: blogspot.com but I had all of my fruit to help sweeten my mood.

My trip home was exactly what I needed. With my mind rejuvenated and my belly full I drove back to The Culinary Institute of America, my new home.

Ten teams of students participated in the First Annual Turkey Bowl Flag Football Tournament on Sunday, 11/24. Team “Ooo Kill ‘Em” (pictured above) won the championiship over team “Bok Choi” in the third overtime, 28-21. The event was sponsored by Student Activities, Recreation, & Athletics.

December Holiday Transportation (ALBANY, STEWART (NEWBURG), JFK & LAGUARDIA 7 AM – Coach Bus (West Point Tours) leaves from St. Andrews Circle and arriving at LaGuardia approximately 9 AM and JFK at approximately 9:45 AM. $25 ONE WAY. Students will be responsible for transportation back to campus in January.

7:30 AM – Royal Chariot Car Service leaves from St. Andrews Circle for Albany Airport; with an arrival time of around 9 AM $25 ONE WAY 8:00 AM – The CIA Minibus will leave St. Andrews Circle for Stewart Airport in Newburg, NY; with an arrival time of around 9 AM. $15 ONE WAY Students purchasing these tickets should be aware these are one way tickets…Students wishing to make arrangements with Royal Chariot Car Service for their return trips by calling 845-876-3000 make sure to identify yourself as a CIA Student to get your discount.

TICKETS ON SALE AT SRC FRONT DESK

Restaurant Confidential A Student’s Experience in a Struggling Restaurant

BY: Anonymus, AOS Culinary

Apparently, I have bad work karma.

I have previously been laid off five times in five consecutive years. Because of this, I am painfully aware of what incompetent owners/upper management looks like. I am the first to notice the red flags of doom when a company is in financial jeopardy. I am all-too-familiar with the last-minute, frantic, trying-to-salvage-the-company-at-any-cost actions when a company is out of resources and thus, options.

My extern site just went through two general managers in 4 weeks, the most recent one lasting nine days.

Prior to that, they decided to close on Mondays because of slow business, and halt lunch service on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. They cut everyone’s hours. They lost two very good employees as a result of reduced hours.

The quick removal of two general managers tells me that the owners didn’t believe that the GM’s were turning things around quick enough. Basically, they’re panicking. This does not bode well for the future of the restaurant.

The restaurant that I am working in was a huge hit in the rural Hudson Valley when it first opened. From what I understand, the last three years have seen a slow decline, but it hasn’t been until this year that things have really plummeted.

What I learned from externship? How NOT to run a restaurant.

The first thing you DON’T do, boys and girls, is allow people with no experience to run your restaurant. While it is nice to hire from within, and promote people, it’s generally unwise to make your bartender a frontof-house manager if they don’t have some schooling and some experience.

Same goes for making your server a general manager, even if he did own and run a pizza joint before, and coincidentally, delivered pizza to the new executive chef’s house. An upscale restaurant and a pizza place are two totally different animals.

However, the one thing that is the same is that people come to eat at your restaurant for the food. If the food isn’t consistent every time a person orders it, then how can they have a favorite thing that they come back for time and time again?

And if you are having financial problems, and choose to serve the meat that is one day short of going bad, because the lowboy wasn’t working properly, understand that will result in more financial problems because the food won’t be good, your customers will tell their friends, and none of them will be customers anymore.

I have found myself throwing out large batches of wilted lettuce, smelly fish, and sour vegetables that I know I would have been forced to serve. I figure, if we’re going down, I’m going down with my integrity intact and I refuse serve putrid food to people. It’s the least I can do. However, I have to admit, sometimes I am tempted to serve it, if only to decisively put the nail in the restaurant’s coffin. Watching this slow death has been incredibly painful and infinitely frustrating. Watching management dance around the obvious while not addressing the actual problem is downright uncomfortable.

The problem is, the menu. And the execution of the menu. And the prices. And the constant stream of executive chefs and general managers that have paraded through the place. They don’t have a concept for their restaurant. And they are not publicizing the amazing things about the restaurant, like the fact that absolutely every morsel that goes through that window and out to the public has been made from scratch. We even pickle our own jalapenos.

However, because we have a twenty-year old front of house manager, no general manager (at the moment), two general managers who weren’t there long enough to make any positive changes, and a harried, over-worked executive chef with an extremely understaffed

back-of-house, and line cooks with no schooling, little experience, and questionable skills, this all equates to a Bad Restaurant In The Making.

So, while I feel like I brought my bad work karma with me, the truth is, this restaurant was in transition when I arrived. The executive chef had been there for a week when I got there. The truth is, the restaurant could have gone either way, and the sequence of events since then has caused its decline.

The owners put pressure on the executive chef to cut peoples’ hours because they were watching their finances. The executive chef then cut hours and we lost good people. The people that remain are trying to do the work of two people. Things aren’t getting done in an attentive, thoughtful way, if at all. Other tasks are falling by the wayside completely. Clean out the lowboy? Sure, I would love to, if I didn’t have to work the line, the desserts, and the salad station all at once. I’d be happy if I had time to fill my squirt bottle with aioli let alone start to clean things. Of course, I’ll have time to clean things once service starts because no one is coming in for dinner anymore.

The bottom line is, regardless of what your finances are, you cannot make money at a restaurant that is not focused on quality. People won’t return.

Especially people who are moneyed, who are sophisticated, and who have other choices. The food must be good. The food must be consistent! If you’re serving half-hearted meals at the hands of people who aren’t trained and don’t eat in the caliber of restaurant in which they are working, it’s going to be a disaster. Our executive chef, as much as I love him, needs to take control of the back-of-the-house instead of allowing himself to be told what to do.

The next general manager needs to come in and ask the owners what their concept is, and then work with the executive chef to execute that.

An entirely new menu needs built, from the ground up, addressing what the customer wants in relation to the owner’s vision. The menu needs to change seasonally – that’s what a true upscale restaurant is about, really.

And finally, the new concept and menu needs to be announced to the public, and a grand re-opening needs to occur. The public needs to know what we are, that after much upheaval we’re moving forward in an assertive, positive way, and that we can offer consistently well-prepared, thoughtful, delicious food at the hands of people who are capable of cooking it.

These are simply my opinions. I honestly have no idea if the restaurant would survive if my ideas were put into motion. However, it’s a solid, logical plan, and it’s better than playing musical chairs with general managers.

Nine days! The most recent general manager was there nine days before being ousted. Nothing says the restaurant owners have noooooooo idea what they’re doing than the nine-day tenure of a manager who they carefully selected. It is a bad, bad, bad, bad sign of things to come.

I like the restaurant at which I’m working. I love my executive chef.

However, four months is enough time to really understand what is happening at a restaurant site. While I would love to see my restaurant succeed, my hope withers weekly.

Come on, December 19th.