2013 7 03 final

Volume 33, No.29

July 3, 2013

Changing the Science in Culinary BY: Ian P. Cairns, AOS Culinary

I guess it’s fair to say that many of the majority of the or contrasting information. In the future though, the Custudent body has no clue what’s going on with the Culi- linary Science program expressed an interest on writing nary Science Program. I know I didn’t, until I met with their own text. One idea that was stressed about the proChef Zearfoss, and my mind was blown. gram: no one piece of literature is considered as the “go Let’s start this off with a definition of molecular gas- to book”. Every piece of literature, both new and old is tronomy (which is not a style of cuisine) by Hervé This, evaluated for its relevant information.

“The mechanisms underlying the transformations during Don’t be fooled by the precise equipment and easy cooking.” What does that mean? Well, in short it’s what access of information, this program is hard! The majority The Culinary Institute of America’s newest degree pro- of the information covered in this class is new material, gram strives for.

The Culinary Science Program is, in fact, a professional studies degree, focused on food and science, where application and functionality of food are expressed daily. Chef Zearfoss stressed to me that it is not a food science degree, which tends to focus not so much on food as on reductive systems.

The Culinary Science facility is composed of several rooms: kitchen, classroom, analytical lab, and sensory analysis lab; located on the bottom floor of the Colavita Center. As if the chapters in The Modernist Cuisine about tools and equipment were replicated for a student setting, the Culinary Science kitchen is a dream. Every tool imaginable, in high end restaurants and research kitchens alike is begging to be used. Even the traditional kitchen equipment is kept onsite for Photos Courtesy of Ian Cairns play by play comparisons. For comparing and contrasting, and the concepts are challenging. the analytical lab is full of everything you need to complete If you don’t believe me, just walk the scientific process. This lab houses your traditional Er- into Apple Pie Bakery and witlenmeyer flasks and titration equipment; but, everything ness the mass of culinary science else from rotary evaporators, centrifuges, stethoscopes, students studying away as if they hydrocolloids, and countless other things I can’t even pro- were in wines again. nounce. The kitchen and sensory analysis lab located in As far as courses go, there the facility are similar in the fact they are composed of is a 60/40 mix of kitchen/lab to moveable and locking tables. This way, depending on the classroom spread with first lab subject/experiment being discussed the room can trans- classes during 7th term. Let me form to a desirable configuration. One notable part of the be the first to clear up any rumors classroom is the bookcase reserved for the Culinary Sci- that all these hands on classes are ence students, here this compounding library is composed just like a college chemistry lab, of cookbooks and literature that offer a different approach they’re not. Like stated earlier, to the field being studied. this is a professional science deOn the subject of books, the reading material provided gree, if there is no practical apfor the Science program is vast and thorough, yet the cost plication towards food then it deis still cheaper than that of the AOS program. Some of feats the purpose of the program. this literature includes: The Modernist Cuisine by Nathan Really, what these classes are Myhrvold, Sensory Evaluation of Foods by Harry T. Lawless, designed for are hands on underOn Food and Cooking by Harold McGee and a book unique standing of subject being covered. to the program called Custom Reader. Custom Reader is So sure, the curriculum is cool, there’s fancy gadgets, a book composed of many books. This document pulls the program gets their own special kitchen/ labs; but, what articles and sections of relevant literature and composes isn’t mentioned is the culture. Remove yourself from the them in an organized system. The beauty of it, is that it idea that you have to use greasy sheet trays and dirty pots can be easily modified season to season, both with new to cook your consommé. Instead, imagine that you live

in a place that every pot and pan is scrubbed by the students, spotless. In this “perfect world” you not only have access to one hand sink, but four! Here you’re not only taught by a single instructor, but co-taught by a scientist and chef so practicality, application, and collaboration are all expressed harmoniously. If that wasn’t enough, these instructors remove the pedestal of student teacher; here they sit alongside of you for lecture, discuss concepts, and lead by not by delegating, but doing it with you.

Forget about wearing a foot long hat and easily dirtied chef jacket, there’s skull caps and bib aprons for practicality and less stress on the laundry machine. Bakers and culinarians both working together in the same kitchen, on the same project? It’s true. In this program, ergonomics and efficiency are taught through developed and tested systems, so you never waste a motion. And the cherry on top? Anyone who has been through Caterina de Medici knows that all produce and trash is picked up by the facilities maintenance crew. The Culinary Science Program (located below Caterina) has the option to do that, but instead sprayed their trashcans with the programs label. Everyday these students walk from the furthest kitchen on campus, armed with soapy water, to the compost area and scrub all three containers, spotless.

So where do the future graduates of this program choose to do for a career you might say? Well, their postgraduation opportunities are as diverse as the program.

Some students wish to be product developers for large companies such as Kraft or restaurants, others wish to be entrepreneurs, some want to change food policy and school feeding systems, a handful just want to be more knowledgeable as they move on as cooks in a high end restaurant. Needless to say, the opportunity awaits. If you are interested in joining the program or want more information on course descriptions please contact d_brown@culinary.edu.

Culinary Culture

FOOD & BEVERAGE

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Perspectives on a Baking & Pastry Exernship

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Biodynamic Wines with Steven Kolpan

Make the Most of Summer ON CAMPUS

See the program details here: http://www.ciachef.edu/ bachelors-degree-culinary-science-ny/

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CENTER SPREAD

Summer Gluten Free Baking

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BACK PAGE

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All in Good Taste...

LA PAPILLOTE

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THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

July 3, 2013

PUBLISHER

The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephanie M. Kirkland

LAYOUT EDITOR

Diane Lam

ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS Ian Cairns Chef Fred Brash Daniel Jaroz Amy Zarichnak Anna Ungricht Scott Schetselaar

Sue Haug

Bianca Swanepoel Mary Geyer Michael Earle Giulianna Galiano Steven Kolpan Hollise Trendi Tom Pier

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net

Summer break is bittersweet.

I know what you’re thinking, “Steph, are you kidding? I’ve been waiting for this for what seems like months.” And I would believe every word you would say.

But I still don’t think it is any less bittersweet. Here’s the thing; I’ve only been here for a month!

Sans current summer cold I now have, I HAD been able to enjoy the new season at its finest recently. Festivals are in full swing, outdoor get-togethers, and lots of freshly gathered foods are just a couple of perks I have been dealt, minus bug bites galore of course. New friends and late summer nights in the Hudson Valley, how could you want to leave?! (half joking) I feel like a lot of my editorials have to do with coming and going, like the seasons in a way and the way your life transitions from one relationship or meal, to the next. Feeling this way may be because I’m just getting back into life here at school. It’s still all fresh and new, except I’m doing it again.

For many, coming back to school will be like remembering how to write an actual sentence again, and putting pen to paper to form words, surprised to find they have not forgotten how to write; dare I say that it will be the first time they’ve picked up a pen since…their last class?

It’s totally understandable. I know there are much more enticing things to be doing over our summer break. Summer entertaining anyone? For me, it is one of my favorite things to do. A large deck on the outside of my parent’s house is also a plus. I have the capacity to invite any number of friends over, left with room still to enjoy easily the same number of dishes and plates on the table setting before us. I have a half a dozen ideas in mind for ways to coax my friends to my house for food, as if it was that hard to begin with.

I had a piece of an ice box cake today and it was like I was (or I could guess I was) a kid back in the days where mom would just take it out of the fridge like it was nothing; but I guess it is nothing in a way because it only takes a little as two ingredients to make.

Ice box cake. What the hell is that? I got an education this week in the subject. A food blog test kitchen had a craze.. and whipped up numerous cakes in the name of trying to beat the heat. On my end, it was an excuse for a birthday cake.

Something that was easy to make, but beautiful all the same. And can I say it was incredibly delicious and refreshing. It really was what a birthday cake should be in a summer setting, not laden with buttercream, making you feel even worse about getting into that bikini body shape. It is a craze right now. Something that is being brought back as “new” even though it’s hay day was in the 30s after WW1 if you can believe. But it is hard to believe that it ever went out of style. It easily replaces a traditional cake in my mind. Our ice box cake was made of chocolate graham crackers and lightly sweetened whipped cream, that was flavored with only a teaspoon of vanilla extract. You simply layer the graham crackers with the whipped cream, and as it sits overnight, it slowly starts to all meld together in a way that makes it the best combination of graham crackers and whipped cream that it could be.

With this advancement in summer variations of your favorite foods, helps me to reflect on why recipes such as panzanella and fruit cobblers are also so popular.

Anyone else’s relatives/close friends/your mom’s friends/your grandmas friends/people you haven’t talked to since high school/YOUR HIGHSCHOOL TEACHERS/ex-coworkers/ Facebook friends --- basically any contact that you’ve ever had; bugging you to cook? For them and their brother? At some point during your precious time at home? Or is that just me?

A part of me dislikes it because I know that they are expecting something out of this world, and honestly, I would probably just make some grilled fish with a summer salad of sorts incorporating some type of grain and herb dressing in the process. Just simple. I get psyched out just because I would hope that they wouldn’t be disappointed with that, you know?

The other part of me dislikes it solely for the fact that now, people are suddenly interested.

But the difference is, aside from all of this, as much as I dislike the fact that people think they can get a free meal out of me just out of the goodness of my heart, is that I actually enjoy it. I enjoy cooking for someone. And if they are appreciative of the work and quality that I put into it, than all the better.

As always, stay hungry.

Stephanie Kirkland

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LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

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Michael Walsh (Copy Editor) MW1058392@ mycia.net

July 3, 2013

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Chef ‘Freddy B’ and Friends

BY: Freddy Brash, Chef Instructor

Freddy B: Well I am happy to be bringing you a Chef and her experiences that I really respect a lot here at school.

I met a student in the hallway one day and he proceeded to share about his current kitchen class.

Chef lined everyone up and asked them to reach for the ceiling so they proceeded to do that. At this point Chef said now reach higher that’s what we will do here in the coming weeks; welcome to Cuisines of the Mediterranean; his instructor was Chef Eisenhauer.

Chef Anita Eisenhauer is how I am known, Chef Brash calls me Anita. My colleague and I have known each other for the ten years I have taught at The Culinary Institute of America. While I have learned from others, his knowledge Photo Courtesy Of: CIA and experiences are deep, we usually focus on fables of fruit. He eats either an apple or an orange, religiously, daily and this reveals in my mind many traits of his character. He is consistent, diligent, persistently working on his health and mindful. Like all of us

chefs who teach, we’ve had a life before teaching, full with stories, highs and lows, many lessons to propel our teaching. Chef Brash and I have rarely traded those past stories; we only share what information is relevant for today, those lessons already mentioned and one more. There is only one reason he will give up his daily fruit, for the opportunity to give it to another, a selfless generosity.

Recently, I went to a family wedding on my mother’s side which took place in the central plains, where I grew up until I left for college. While we did stay in a hotel, each morning of the stay, our large family pulled many of the small tables together so we could eat and visit, family style. Our gatherings of family and community were always celebrated with a meal, of our own making when possible. Mexican food, freshly made, fed by the garden and if not from the summer garden then the canned or frozen products of the summer harvest. I was very lucky. I learned of good home cooked food when young. The lessons and importance of what was nourished in us during that time is what I try to pass on in my teaching.

My family also imparted in me the sense of quality.

Quality products make quality food, clearing the way for content people to commune.

Strong female and male mentors have been my models as I learned in the field. Everyone benefits from mentorship. With seven years of working for Geoffrey Zakarian I became the technician of a cook I am today. I became the “Chef” by my own

Make the Most of Summer BY: Daniel Jaroz, BPS Culinary

Summer is literally around the corner. Get a head start on ity like golf to possibly hit a hole in one. With your younger all the fun. Go ride a bike on the curvy roads or paved side- siblings or cousins hit a rubber ball against the wall to play an walks. Wake up the motorcyexhilarating match of raccle from the garage and zoom quet ball. Get your heart down the city streets. Take pumping with a competithe convertible or jeep for a tive or friendly sport. spin on the freeway. Grind The days are longer your skateboard against a silfrom June all the way to ver rail. Ride a scooter if you August. Spend some time want to play it safe. Personon an adventure or activally, I remove the rollerblades ity. Hibernation is over and from under my bed and get it’s time to move. Run at them rolling. a steady speed or casually Take advantage of sunny jog around the neighbordays because you may not hood. Go for a walk, posget them back. Take the opsibly with your pet dog, to Photo Courtesy Of: Smith Collection clear your mind and gain portunity to explore the great outdoors. Hike tall mountains or walk along rocky terrain to energy. Go on the swings at your Local Park and feel like a capture the clean and dense air. Take friends and family on kid again. Take a dip in a swimming pool to get your entire a sort of safari or to the zoo to visit man’s best friends. Stroll body moving. Build some muscle while you are at it. Hitting through the city and observe the immensely tall skyscrapers up the gym is a wise and effective decision. Lift some dumband office buildings. Take a walk in the park to hear the birds bells. Regular attendance will get you into good shape. This chirp and feel the lively sun. Release a plastic kite into the air will be rewarding once your feet touch the dense and dry and allow it to soar and glide through the thick sky. Plan an sand on the beach. adventure to see a famous monument or national park. Last Do something you have never done before. Be adventurous. year I went to Bushkill falls, which is considered the Niagara For example, last summer I rode a zip line in the middle of a Falls of Pennsylvania, because it has eight waterfalls. I love to forest and I am terrified of heights. The experience was nerve keep things moving, especially when the weather is cooperating. wrenching, packed with excitement, and well worth it in the There is no reason to be bored, especially during summer- end. My advice to you is not to be afraid. Go out there and time. My favorite thing to do during summer is play sports. swim with the dolphins, go on a hot air balloon ride, or try sky Nothing beats yelling “Swing badda badda,” hitting a base- diving. Do not let fear dictate what you can and cannot do. ball, and earning a homerun. Just get out there and play. Play Julia child always urged people not to be afraid. So this a friendly game of soccer, lacrosse, tennis, you name it. Of summer I urge you not be afraid to have fun. Enjoy every course the sport may feel more like a competition or battle. second of sunshine. Take advantage of the three week break Take part in a play or exercise that you were restricted from from school. There is so much to do but not a lot of time. So doing during the colder months. Use that hockey stick and get out there and have a blast. And most importantly, have a rollerblades to play a friendly game of hockey in a parking lot safe and happy summer break folks! or in an empty stadium. Take out the football and play a game of catch with a buddy. Take your parents out for a calm activ-

hard work and by the mental guidance of two Chefs.

Early was Melissa Hamilton who was a Chef of many talents with high standards, a master at multi-tasking while running an excellent restaurant in New Jersey.

Later she was the food editor for Saveur and today writes and publishes cookbooks privately.

Two years later, while I was on the line in Geoffrey’s kitchen in New York City, I applied by contest and won entrance to the School for American Chefs run

by Madeleine Kamman at Beringer Vineyards in California. The competition consisted of making a menu to be judged by her alone. Her instructions required a cheese somewhere on the menu but all of the ingredients must have been chosen from her list.

Included in the list were recognizable cheeses but also rennet. She later told us that if the applicant did not use the rennet to make their own cheese, their application went directly to the garbage, their decision reflecting a lack of curiosity, ambition or notice of detail. Madeleine is my most formative Chef, supporting the standard in us, her lifelong students, of absolute excellence in the pursuit of intellect and technique teamed together for the benefit of good cooking. I became a sponge to her information and my curiosity was set on fire.

Best advice for today, find your mentor. Build a career of your own with support from mentors.

LA PAPILLOTE

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Up Close with Chef Cynthia Keller BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

Amy: How do you relax? What does your “me time” look like on weekends? Does it involve the enjoyment of food??

Cynthia Keller: Alas, almost always food is involved.

I love the outdoors, mountains, ocean, rivers, etc. Hobbies include hunting, fishing, skiing, gardening and foraging. Each is seasonally dependent. When the weather starts to turn unbearably hot and sticky, instead of being miserable, I think about what kind of edible wild mushrooms it will bring.

Most weekends are spent finding, catching, gathering food and sharing it at the table.

A: You were the chef/owner of Restaurant du Village in Chester, CT, for almost twenty years. Give us a little history of the place, your vision for it, and the decision to close the restaurant. Upon reading reviews online, it appears to have been a beloved little place in a town with a population of less than five thousand people.

K: It was a dream come true. My husband is French and a 4th generation baker and pastry chef. He was my partner.

The restaurant was small, fifty seats, and embraced regional French cookery with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, fresh foods, and seasonal ingredients. We served dinner only five nights a week, and yes, it was a beloved place.

We made amazing relationships, both with our team of employees, many of whom started as young teenagers, and our relationships in the Village of Chester. And, of course, with the guests, who made everything possible. When we sold the restaurant in 2009, my husband retired after fifty-plus years in the kitchen. Three weeks later, I was here teaching, which is such a wonderful opportunity to share what I’ve learned.

Running a small business is hard work, but can be very re-

warding. Math matters. People skills matter just as much.

I was the chef, wine buyer, menu writer, PR agent, gardener, flower arranger and human resources department. Most Mondays when the restaurant was closed, it was a day to work on maintenance and bookkeeping. But it was worth every minute. Do I miss it? Yes, and no. I miss the friends that I made. I am proud of what we accomplished; we opened to a four-star review and closed to one. Not bad for a twenty year run!

A: What in life gives you the greatest satisfaction?

K: Work is what gives me satisfaction; it is how I define myself through my work as a chef and an educator. Of course I am really happy when I am playing too.

A: What is the most gratifying part of your daily routine?

K: Walking my dog in the morning. It’s a moving meditation, where we observe the world and my mind turns over problems and ideas. I have a busy brain, so it is important to spend some quiet alone time to calm it down.

A: It seems to me that a lot of people in this industry are focused on giving back to the community. What are the causes you like to put effort and energy into?

K: I was very active in my community while I had the restaurant, everything from little league, Girl Scouts and local fire company. My husband and I are great supporters of the arts, museums and theaters and did some major fundraising events for them. We were also very active in the CT farmland preservation trust and farm-to-table movement. We are now settling into “private sector” life here in the Hudson Valley and will continue to support similar efforts.

Perspectives on B&P extern BY: Anna Ungricht, AOS B&P

Have you thought about your externship? For some, it has already come and gone, for some it is right around the corner, but for many others it is still a passing thought. A vital and exciting part of coming to the CIA is, surprisingly enough, leaving for an externship. After only two semesters here we go off into the “real world” of your chosen job. Having gone through this experience once already, I know what the fears are, how frustrating find one can be, and the immense learning opportunity it will be.

I wanted to find out, from other baking students, what they thought about the externship. I came up with some questions and had a few baking students answer them.

What are your fears about find an externship?

What do you want out of your externship?

Where do you want to go?

How do you plan to find an externship?

There was a variety of answers, but it showed the most common fear is not finding one. The best way to establish an externship is to start early, keep looking, and use the Career Services Office. The school has 1600 sites approved for externships. Many of them for culinary, but baking sites are certainly in there. According to Tom Leggio, “That depends, and changes every day. It is also seasonal, when places are open.” Baking students have as much an opportunity to find an externship as culinary students.

Everyone that took the survey had, at least, a general idea of where they want to go. Some want to go to Disney, the West Coast, places close to home, the East Coast, and internationally too. Some were highly specific in the places they want to go and what they want to do, such as Christopher Elbow – Chocolatier, Momofuku Milk Bar and Maggi Austin -- Cakes. These are all incredible places each with entirely different aspects of the baking and pastry field. Looking at the websites, it is easy to see that each place is a world away from one another, one works only with chocolate; one is a full bakery, and the last works just with cakes. I asked Tom Leggio if there is a common place for baking externships, to which he replied, “There is not one common place, but country clubs and places that have high volume events and weddings [are most desired].”

It seems some students fear they do not have enough

experience or are afraid of looking stupid on their externship. As students, we think we know everything; we do well in class, and well on the tests, but the externship is a glimpse into the scary “real world!” “It is understood that you are a student. The chefs are like an extension of the faculty. You also have to decide on your preference. If you want to go to a well known restaurant or a mom and pop place, you have to weigh the options to fit your need. This is an opportunity to grow,” Mr. Leggio was quoted saying. The externship is undoubtedly an insight to see if what we want to do is truly what we want to do.

A few students from the survey said that they wanted to go out of their comfort zone when they went on externship.

Leaving your comfort zone is the best way to learn anything at all. The best way to prepare for this learning experience, is to go with an open mind. Even if you do not like the externship it is not the end of the world. At the end of the four months, we get to come back to school, and genuinely focus on finishing our college education, hopefully with strong networking and experiences.

The first mention of the externship is in orientation. Orientation is long and at times tedious and seemingly pointless.

Thoughts are focused on when are we entering the kitchens, and getting our knife kits. The word “externship” is placed on the back burner, to be thought of later. Periodically the word “externship” is bandied about, but we are just trying to survive fundamentals and the academic classes. Then suddenly, we have to find an externship, and find it quickly. Tom Leggio says that more students than the school would like, wait until the last minute, to find one.

Most students feel that the CIA does a decent job of helping them find an externship. We as students are not thrown to the wolves hoping against hope that we are not eaten alive while just trying to survive. So as baking students, and even culinary, get ready to start look, or have already looked the Career Services Office is the best place to start or continue.

Not only will they be able to help you find an externship, but they also have resources to help you find housing. We are given every opportunity to succeed, so those opportunities while you can!

A: You are a very strong woman who seems to have a very firm idea of how one should conduct oneself. Where do your values come from? Any poignant lessons that you’ve learned that make you want to impress certain ways of doing things onto students?

K: I was a very active Girl Scout in a non-traditional troop. We did a lot of community service building repairs at an inner city camp, cutting and maintain trails on the Appalachian Trail and that sort of work. We white-water canoed, backpacked, and lifeguarded. I learned early on to be responsible and that is where I found my love of cooking for other people. I learned how to plan menus for a weekend camping trip, buy the ingredients in the right amounts for the number of people we had to feed, how to pack it to transport it, and how to cook in volume. Lots of those early lessons made me confident and independent.

Big lesson I learned the hard way, don’t abuse the people who work for you. At one point I let the stress of business life build to where I had anger issues. I learned that if you call people bad profane names and scream at them, they really aren’t going to do their best. I had to stop and reflect. I still was very demanding in my standards, but learned better ways to communicate my wishes, needs and work ethic.

A: Anything else you’d like to say to the student body?

K: At the end of the day, be the person you want to look up to. Lead by example. The only person’s behavior you can be responsible for is your own. Stand tall and be proud of who you are.

Student Leadership Winners

Spring 2013 Best Student Run Program or Event Korean Association CIA (KACIA) Korean Street Food Spring 2013 Outstanding New Organization Award The Masala Club Spring 2013 Outstanding Student Organization Black Culinarian Society (BCS) Spring 2013 Outstanding Leader of a Student Organization Kamil Moore Black Culinarian Society (BCS) Spring 2013 Exceptional Advisor Doug Miller Mixology Spring 2013 Rising Star Student Leader Award Aaron Gonnelly SPICE (Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment) Spring 2013 Unsung Hero Award Catie Pedersen CIA Paintball Coalition Spring 2013 Outstanding Contribution to Campus Life through Student Government Mike Earle Spring 2013 Outstanding SPICE Leader Award Rachel Browning Sping 2013 oustanding CHOP’T Leader Award Jenny LeMaster

Bocuse Revisited

July 3, 2013

ON CAMPUS

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BY: Scott Schetselaar, AOS Culinary

The Bocuse restaurant hit the ground running when it first opened, hosting banquets for VIP’s and running at almost full capacity every night; but despite the challenges, it has run nearly flawlessly and continues to inspire awe amongst those that eat and work there.

On its opening day, the restaurant hosted such esteemed guests as Charlie Palmer, Daniel Boulud, David Burke, and others, in addition to the guest of honor, the restaurants’ namesake, Paul Bocuse. Since then it has hosted many of the schools guest speakers and visiting industry leaders such as Chef/ restaurateur Thomas Keller, founder of Chobani yogurt, Hamdi Ulukaya, and representatives from the Brooklyn Brewery. With regard to the operation of the restaurant, Chef Sergio Remolina said, “It has been good, we started with this idea and have been happy with the way it has been running.”

According to Jennifer Purcell, Associate Dean of Restaurant Education and Operations, The Bocuse is busier than the Escoffier restaurant before it, boasting over ninety covers a night. Chef Remolina confirmed this and added that for a reservation, it is usually a two to three week wait, and more than a month for a Friday or Saturday night reservation.

The menu at The Bocuse has changed its offerings with the summer season, but has also received some refinement in its layout when compared to some experimental versions attempted prior to its opening.

The original menu concept was to have a segmented menu where guests could choose from three different backgrounds of food: Classics Revisited, Of Bistros & Brasseries, and Iconic Dishes from Iconic Chefs.

This layout proved to be slightly confusing. According to Senior Director of Special Projects, Waldy Malouf, “The menu was a little bit hard to read, [and it] didn’t present itself as a menu that spoke to the room.” The menu found in The Bocuse today has been refined into a more traditional layout and is much cleaner and easier to read.

As previously mentioned, the menu has changed with the season, and while some dishes, such as the truffle soup, remain, Chef Remolina has added some dishes to reflect the summer offerings. Some of this summer’s most popular menu items are the Chicken Sous Vide, Scallops, Seared Foie Gras with Passion Fruit, and the house made Pate with Cherry Sauce.

Dean Purcell, also mentioned some new items, such as the Pineapple Upside-Down Cake and a White Coffee

Ice-Cream with Smoked Chocolate Sauce and Cocoa Nibs.

Now that The Bocuse is running in full swing, some growing pains are being felt by the staff. Despite having tempered glass, some of the partitions on the serving stations have proven prone to breaking. According to Maître d’ Instructor John Fischer, they have been

replaced by a high quality laminate material. Another issue has been the hardwood floor, in some instances the padding has come off from the feet of the chairs and allowed the chairs to leave scratches on the surface. Another issue addressed by Mr. Fischer was the noise level. According to him, during the height of service, even despite having leather sound absorbing paneling, it can be quite loud. A method he employs to combat this challenge is to turn the music lower as the restaurant fills, so that guests are not forced to compete with it.

Some of the biggest challenges met by the opening of the restaurant have been the implementation of the new cooking methods. Since the renovation of the Escoffier into what is now The Bocuse, the most marked change in the kitchen has been the equipment. Dishes can now be prepared with the technique of Sous Vide by way of a thermo circulator and also the use of hydrocolloids. According to Chef Remolina, who worked in the Escoffier as well as now in The Bocuse, many of the classical dishes have been adapted to the restaurant’s new equipment and, “It [is] a challenge for the student, because with a lot of techniques and preparations we have [at The Bocuse], it [is] the first time for them, so sometimes it’s a little bit hard for them to get used to.” Mr. Malouf also explained that the restaurant was not able to use the thermo circulator right away due delays in the certification process.

Another new method of preparation being implemented is the use of liquid nitrogen. The super-

cold liquid is used in what has become one of the restaurants signature items, Tableside Ice-Cream. Another way that liquid nitrogen has been utilized was described by Mr. Fischer; creating vanilla snow for a house-made orange soda-cream sickle and also something he called, “a cocktail in the rocks” where a beverage is turned into a frozen egg-like structure, that is shattered tableside by the serving staff with the help of a jeweler’s hammer. Another exciting aspect of The Bocuse’s menu that will come to fruition soon is access to a beverage-focused herb garden.

Plans to put an herb garden in Heinz Plaza were confirmed by Dean Purcell and will go underway after the completion of the Marriott Pavilion. Herbs will be available for hot beverage infusions and possibly beer.

One of the biggest changes in protocol is the Photo Courtesy Of: CIA way that the back of house is run compared to the previous Escoffier restaurant in that desserts are now being prepared by an inhouse team of Baking and Pastry students led by Chef Stéphane Weber. This advantage was described by the Escoffier’s previous Chef Xavier Le Roux, “When it comes to pastry… at Escoffier, everything was done by us and some of the desserts came from Apple Pie [Bakery]; now they have a class and a pastry chef to prepare all of the desserts, which allows for a big load to be taken off the kitchen… they come out also much better than what [the Escoffier] was able to do.” Mr. Fischer expanded on this by saying that, “The desserts are a game changer, and Chef Weber is the first pastry chef to work in one of the schools restaurants. For forty years, we never had a pastry chef in the restaurants, these are real New York City quality desserts.”

Overall the reception of the restaurant has been very good. As Mr. Fischer put it, “Service is impressive… we continue to get raves from the guests… they are given a level of detail they may not have seen at any restaurant besides the very top.” He put the project into perspective when he said, “It’s an honor to be on the opening team for a restaurant like this, it really is one of the time when we as faculty truly get challenged, opening a restaurant anywhere is hard, but opening a new restaurant when you have a new group of students every three weeks… it really reminds you why you’re in this business. It’s fun to rise to the challenge.”

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Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)

6

LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

Summer Sweets Gluten Free Baking

BY: Bianca Swanepoel, AOS B& P

Summer lovin’ has got my sweet tooth on the prowl. Sugar caramelizing in the oven steers my discipline for trying to shred the winter pudge.

With those beautiful summer barbeques and brunches, the silky aromas of food caress all your old summer memories. Sunny day rituals, like high tea and camp outs, continue to be some of my favorites. Posh and elegant moments, to roughing it next to the redwoods and a bonfire – even these simple joys can be a small obstacle for those who have a gluten intolerance. Solution? Be proactive. There’s nothing more exciting than making something gluten free taste more than just store-bought cardboard.

This first recipe I actually found on Giada’s website. I decided to create two different gluten free variations. I made one with Bob’s Redmill All Purpose Gluten Free Flour and one with my own rice f lour mixture. I found that one made

Pine Nut Apricot Crumb Cake ½ cup whole almonds, toasted, plus ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted, plus ¼ cup ½ cup brown rice flour ¾ cup white rice flour (or 1 ¼ cup of Bob’s Red Mill All Purpose Flour) ¾ t xanthan gum 1 t baking powder ½ t salt 4 large eggs 1 ¼ cups sugar 1 ½ sticks butter, melted 1/3 cup milk ¼ t almond extract ½ cup chopped dried apricots

with Bob’s Redmill came out much more dense, but also slightly more moist. I personally didn’t enjoy the subtle vegetable f lavor of the cake due to the f lour blend, however, coworkers seemed to enjoy it more than the cake made with the rice f lour. The rice f lour one did have a better crumb (and an absence of grass patch f lavor).

Directions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and f lour a 9-inch cake pan.

Combine the whole almonds and 1/4 cup pine nuts in a food processor. Pulse the machine until the nuts are finely ground. Transfer the nuts to a medium bowl. Add the f lours, xanthan gum, baking powder, and salt. Stir to combine.

In a separate medium bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the eggs and the sugar until the mixture becomes thick and pale yellow. Add the butter, and milk. Stir in the almond extract and apricots. Gently stir in the dry ingredients. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Sprinkle the top of the cake with sliced almonds and remaining 1/4 cup pine nuts. Bake until the cake is cooked and a toothpick comes out clean, about 50 to 55 minutes. Let the cake cool on a wire rack. Use an offset spatula to loosen the edges.

This is a granola recipe that was given to

me by my pastry sous from my externship site, One Market Restaurant, which I slightly altered with the resources that I had. It’s great over your morning yogurt, for a parfait, or a dessert garnish.

Photo Courtesy Of: Bianca

Swanepoel

Directions: Mix all the dry ingredients, including the sugars, in a small Kitchen Aid with a paddle attachment. Add in the butter and mix on low speed until well combined. Add the eggs, honey and

Quinoa Granola 1/3 cup Maple Syrup 2 T olive oil ½ t cardamom ½ t salt 2 cup almonds (I used slivered) ¼ cup flaxseeds ½ cup dried cranberries

Directions: Whisk the maple syrup, olive oil, cardamom, and salt. Condition the dried cranberries.

You can simply place them into a microwave safe container fully submerged in water and microwave them for thirty seconds. Chop them to your desired size, and them fold them into the syrup mixture with the nuts and seeds. Spread evenly over a silpat or silicone baking mat in a 350°F oven or 325°F convection oven. Every seven minutes, toss them around to ensure even baking. Bake until the almond look golden and toasty.

I cannot imagine a summer without s’mores.

Those summers simply don’t exist. I found many recipes for graham crackers and managed to adjust here and there until I got one I truly enjoyed.

Sweet Sorghum Honey Graham Crackers 300g sweet white sorghum flour 290g glutinous white rice flour 18g aramanth flour 1t ground cinnamon 1t baking soda 1t kosher salt 12g guar gum 110g light brown sugar 110g granulated suagr 340g butter, cold, unsalted cubed 200g eggs 85g honey 2T vanilla extract

vanilla. In crease the mixer speed to medium/ high and mix until the mixture forms a ball.

Onto a work surface that has been dusted with white rice f lour, take out the dough. Knead the dough a couple of times until it is nice and soft. You’ll notice a very different consistency with this dough, in that it breaks and tears off from itself, instead of the usual stretchiness with wheat-based products. Using a knife, section off the dough into four. Shape each part into a f lat rectangle. Refrigerate for about 12 hours (or up to 2 days). I don’t exactly plan ahead so I just froze it for an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Line a sheet tray with parchment or silicone baking mats.

Roll out on piece of the dough onto a rice f loured surface to a 5x12 rectangle. I measured out 2x4 rectangle cookies with a ruler and a pizza cutter.

I went about 1/8” thick, but I would have liked them thinner personally. Place them onto the sheet tray, poke the tops of the rectangles with a skewer. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, or save for a rainy day.

Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until lightly golden on the edges. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool.

July 3, 2013

7

From Farm to School

BY: Mary Geyer, AOS Culinary

What does slow foods mean to you? Impatiently waiting fifteen minutes for a breakfast kitchen to open may be a first thought for some. The words slow, local, and organic may come to mind for others. For grade school students at Haldane Elementary in Cold Spring, NY slow foods means a Chef in the Classroom visits, a component of the Hudson Valley Farm to School Program.

This program is associated with the National Farm to School Network, promoting student wellness though fresh, local farm produce in cafeterias as well as offering nutrition and food system education. Chef in the Classroom gives Haldane students the opportunity to learn about chefs and some of the fresh fruits and vegetables they work with.

Once a month CIA students Nick Gonzales (AOS) and Mary Geyer (AOS) visit various Haldane classrooms ranging from kindergarten to fifth grade. The two culinary students created an original recipe which focuses on a local vegetable of the month while also keeping in mind school nutrition guidelines and taste preferences of young palates. From cleaning spinach for omelets in April to cutting up strawberries for yogurt parfaits in June, the kids worked side by side with Nick and Mary, learning how to prep and create dishes in their own classrooms. The recipe was then recreated on a larger scale by the cafeteria staff the following week, and served as a “Fresh from the Farm” menu item to the entire middle school student body. To better educate the students, each one received a ‘Fun Facts’ flyer that showcased the chosen fruit or vegetable. Spinach fun fact: Did you know that Popeye made his debut on January 17, 1929, and soon spinach became the third most popular children’s food after turkey and ice cream?

According to a Ted Talks presentation by Jamie Oliver, it is common for elementary aged students in America and England to not have basic food knowledge: the ability to identify common fresh fruits and vegetables. When Mr. Oliver presented whole potatoes, tomatoes and cauliflower to a classroom of younglings, they could not put a name to what was being waved in front of them. Not only does a farm to school

program initiate food knowledge in young minds, but it also creates positive changes on a much larger scale throughout the culinary industry. How is that possible?

The Farm to School Network website explains that wi-

three per cent said they did. After the chefs taught the kids how to make a spinach and cheese egg scramble, 85% said they liked spinach. This is one of many examples of how our Chef in the Classroom program is changing kids’ attitudes towards fresh vegetables.” Children who enjoy eating their fruits and vegetables? That’s crazy talk! But wait! There’s more…school food budgets improve when menu planning is based on seasonally available local whole foods. Jobs are created due to an increase in market opportunities for local famers, fishers, and ranchers as well as the need for experienced and knowledgeable chefs in school cafeterias.

The CIA is starting to see more and more graduates searching for jobs with farm to table concepts set in place; restaurants (white table cloth or not) and bakeries, cafes and hotels. It’s important to know where our food is coming from! However, there needs to be more talk about farm to school from the chefs themselves. As chefs, we nourish Photos Courtesy of Mary Geyer people. To take it a step further we can educate the public about the benefits of cooking and eating fresh, local whole foods instead of solely serving it to them. Every student, no matter his or her age, should have access to wholesome school meals.

How do we as culinary students help make this idea a reality? Volunteer at a local school cafeteria and see what it’s all about.

Research farm to school projects not only in Hudson Valley but from your hometown.

Consider working for school lunch programs for externship or even after graduation. Sandy McKelvey’s kids are living proof that farm to school projects are successful in getting the message across. “All the students at Haldane love the Chef in the Classroom program. When the chefs arrive, there is excitement in the air, and the students are eager to make the recipes they bring in. We farm to school programs like Chef in the Classroom, were thrilled to have Chefs Mary and Nick working with there is an increase in children’s consumption of fruits our kids and guiding them on the path to a healthier and vegetables. Sandy McKelvey, Executive Director of diet.”

It’s worth the time and effort to educate future Hudson Valley Farm to School explains, “When we feagenerations not only about cooking, but the benefits of tured spinach in April, we surveyed the students before the chefs arrived to find out if they liked it or not. Forty- cooking and eating local, healthy foods.

Stars and Stripes Weekend

LA PAPILLOTE

8

A Beer Filled Week in Philly BY: Michael Earle, BPS B&P

Immediately upon walking into the Downtown Marriott, you get a since of excitement. You get a sense that everyone is here for one reason. The crowd of bearded men was all talking about beer.

How much can one group of guys talk about beer, one might ask?

The American Homebrewers Association’s National Hombrewers Conference 2013 in Philadelphia was certainly a fantastic experience for anyone that cares about beer. The week was filled with everything from seminars talking about the chemistry of brewing to the tasting of hundreds of homebrewed and professionally brewed beers. Several of the seminars were geared towards homebrewers, but just as many were aimed at homebrewers that are ready to take the next step of going professional. There were

Beer cheesecake with a raspberry chocolate stout sauce

beer celebrities left and right. Members that were

there got to meet Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales, Charlie Papazian President of the American Homebrewers Association, as well as many other celebrities of the brewing world.

The one highlight for me personally was getting to meet and taste the beers from John Mallet of Bell’s Brewery from Kalamazoo, Michigan. This was the first opportunity for me to taste beers from Bell’s as they don’t have distribution capabilities to get beers to New York. They brought their staple Two Hearted Ale; an India Pale Ale brewed with Centennial hops which give it a fantastic grapefruit and pine aroma.

One of the most interesting options that were there was Moonlight Meadery. Mead is a honey wine that can take several faces including Moonlight’s Kurt’s Apple Pie which is their mead f lavored with local apple cider, bourbon vanilla beans, and Vietnamese cinnamon. This truly is like drinking apple pie. Although the best option they had was their Destiny. Destiny is a melomel, mead f lavored with fruit juice; it has blueberries, black cherries, and black currants. They then take Destiny and age it in Utopias Casks purchased from Samuel Adams.

The slight oaky character from the barrel was a perfect balance from the sweet-tart character from the fruit.

Throughout the week the Brewcasters from the Brewing Network were there doing live broadcasts of two of their shows. Jamil Zainasheff and John

Palmer were in the house to do a live version of “Brew Strong.” The show let people going through the Homebrew Expo ask questions of the homebrew legends.

Saturday wrapped up this glorious week with a dinner made by the Homebrew Chef Sean Paxton.

The entire meal was paired with Rogue Ales beers.

The meal started with a cup of pickled vegetables made with malt vinegar, and f lavored with Liberty hops. The Salad was a Soft Pretzel Panzanella salad.

The vinaigrette for the salad was made with mustard as well as Rogue Ale’s Dry Hopped St. Rogue Red. The Salad was paired with Rogue’s American Amber Ale. The Entrée was a roasted pork Stromboli. The pork was brined in Rogue’s Juniper Pale Ale. The tomato sauce was made with the Shakespeare Oatmeal Stout. There was of coarse a vegan option using tofu brined in the Oatmeal Stout. The dough from each of the two options was made with rye The Strombolis were paired with the Rogue Farm’s Roguenbier Rye. Dessert was a Belgian Stout Cheesecake made with Rogue’s Belgian Stout and some Belgian Dark Candi Sugar. The Cheesecake was atop a crust made with hazelnut f lour, Crystal 40 malt, and Dry Malt Extract. Alongside the cheesecake was a raspberry Rogue Chocolate Stout sauce. Dessert was paired with Rogue’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar.

My Big Fat Greek Festival BY: Giulianna Galiano, MIT Al Forno

You know you are at a Greek Festival when you can’t pronounce any of the scrumptious desserts drizzled with honey, a bit of love, and walnuts. The authentic, pop-inspired music and f lee market made it all the better! The 2013 Poughkeepsie Greek Festival was a huge hit.

Between the young dancers, gyros, coffee bar and ouzo, everything was definitely worth the money. Just seeing the women laugh and giggle with their children and husbands made the scene that much more traditional.

Most festivals showcase other cultures but this one was definitely true to being Greek. The salads, gyro and grape leaves were highlights of this Mediterranean cuisine. Everything seemed to be homemade and even the families that cooked the food stood outside serving it all day long.

Thanks to them and their church, many stomachs were fed and smiles were made. The vendors were very friendly, making bargains all day long trying to sell various hand-crafted jewels and stones that the Greeks cherish dearly. The music was a mix between old folk and modern day pop. The scene in general included babies, couples and men and women of various ages enjoying their heritage and food that comes with it.

July 3, 2013

FOOD & BEVERAGE

9

Biodynamic W ines

BY: Steven Kolpan, Professor and Chair, Wine Studies

with a requirement that at least 80% of livestock feed

what he was looking for in Biodynamics. After just

sustainable-farming pioneer, J.I. Rodale coined the

In the early 1940s the American publisher and

be produced from farm soils;

five years of growing vines on his 30 acre estate us-

term “Organic,” but some 20 years earlier, an Aus-

• prohibition of genetically engineered plant materi-

ing a Biodynamic regimen of crop rotation, pruning,

trian anthroposophist, Rudolf Steiner, had already

als and organisms.

composting, and preparing site and season-specific

developed the philosophical, theoretical, and practi-

The

Father of Biodynamic Viticulture in the

soil and photosynthesis-enriching herbal infusions,

cal underpinnings of yet another holistic approach to

United States is an energetic, enthusiastic and suc-

Joly “began to see nature reborn.”

sustainable agriculture: Biodynamics.

cessful 68 year old wine producer, practicing what he

In 1999 Nicolas Joly published Wine from Sky to

Biodynamics views farms or vineyards as self-

preaches in his vineyards. An indefatigable and true

Earth: Growing and Appreciating Biodynamic Wine

sustaining organisms that thrive within the larger sur-

believer, he has written books and articles, lectured

(Acres USA), which describes his personal journey

rounding ecosystem. Moving the concept of organics

to groups large and small, and is considered the au-

with biodynamic viticulture. It is an inspiring and

to the next level, Biodynamics demands the

honest book that has become the bible for

best holistic farming practices, but coupled

the biodynamic wine movement ( Joly’s

with a strong focus on the vibrant seasonal

current essays can be found at www.cou-

rhythms of the earth and cosmos. All syn-

lee-de-serrant.com) And Joly is not the only

thetic fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides are

famous French vigneron to embrace Bio-

prohibited, replaced with homeopathic con-

dynamics. Lalou-Bize Leroy in Burgundy,

coctions that feature cow and horse manure,

the Chapoutier family in the Rhône Valley,

hay and vegetable compost, and seasonally

André Osterag in Alsace, and Larmandier-

specific mixtures of medicinal herbs, roots,

Bernier in the Champagne region all are

and tree bark (including yarrow, chamo-

practicing the Biodynamic approach. In

mile, nettle, oak bark, valerian, and horse-

other parts of Europe, Australia, New Zea-

tail, among many others). The idea is that

land, Chile, and South Africa, wine pro-

such an approach to agriculture will result

ducers are exploring Biodynamics in their

in healthy plants and animals while enhanc-

vineyards.

ing soil fertility.

In the United States the most visible and

While most practitioners of Biodynam-

activist certified Biodynamic winery is the

ics are found on farms and vineyards in

Sonoma-based Benziger Family Winery,

Europe, Australia, and New Zealand, there

whose president, Mike Benziger is a tire-

is growing interest in this approach in the

less and passionate spokesperson for the

United States, particularly in the American

Biodynamic movement in the vineyards

wine industry. Biodynamic farms and vine-

of California’s North Coast appellations.

yard sites are certified by the Demeter As-

Other Demeter-certified vineyards in Cali-

sociation, founded in Europe in 1928, and Nicolas Joly, the father of Biodynamic Viticulture; Photo Courtesy of Robertcamuto.net

fornia are the Frey vineyards and the Mc-

whose domestic outpost is in the town of Philomath,

thority on theory and practice for the growing num-

Nab Ranch in Mendocino County, as well as Ceago

Oregon, in the Willamette Valley. Demeter is the

ber of Biodynamic grape growers and winemakers in

vineyards in Lake County. The McNab and Ceago

name of the Greek goddess of agriculture, derived

California and Oregon. His name is Nicolas Joly, and

properties are owned by members of the Fetzer fam-

from “Da Meter,” meaning The Mother. The first Bio-

he is not from the Napa Valley, but from the Loire

ily, early advocates of organic viticulture. Bonterra,

dynamic farm in the US was certified in 1982 (Haw-

Valley. That’s in France.

the large wine producer that grows certified organic

thorne Valley Farms and Dairy in the Hudson Valley’s

How is it that the man who is so inspiring to

grapes, acquired an earlier certified Ceago/Fetzer

Columbia County is a Demeter-certified operation).

eco-conscious winemakers in the US comes from the

project in Mendocino and plans to continue to grow

Biodynamic certification standards are stricter than

fabled and sometimes much-maligned land of Gau-

the grapes biodynamically. The Joseph Phelps Free-

organic certification, especially when it comes to soil

loises smokers, foie gras lovers, cheese eaters, and

stone Vineyards on the Sonoma Coast is a serious

additives and treatments. Unique aspects of Demeter

white wine drinkers? Nicolas Joly and his family own

biodynamic project. In Oregon’s Willamette Valley,

certification include:

one of the truly great white wine vineyards in the

Cooper Mountain Vineyards and Winery is lead-

entire world, Coulée de Serrant, in the Loire Valley

ing the way as Oregon’s only certified Biodynamic

village of Savennières, planted exclusively in Chenin

growers and producers. Several other growers and

Blanc grapes. First planted by Cistercian monks in

producers are taking a serious look at Biodynamics

1130, and with the ancient monastery still on the

and have begun to utilize Biodynamic practices in

grounds of the estate, Coulée de Serrant is a perfect

their vineyards, and some have begun the three year

prototype for biodynamic viticulture.

mandatory transition period that precedes Demeter

•

In the mid 1970s French agricultural agents told

Wines from Coulee de SerarantVineyards; Photo Courtesy: Coule-de-serrant.com

certification.

Nicolas Joly, who wanted to improve the wines of

What do I expect when I taste Biodynamic wines,

Coulée de Serrant, that his family’s approach to vi-

made from grapes that were grown in balance with

ticulture was archaic, and that they he should adopt

the Cosmic Forces? Should I expect to see God, or

the use of chemical fertilizers and insecticides. Joly, a

should I bring someone to talk me down from my

former banker and graduate of Columbia University

levitating lotus? Am I going to experience Syrah Sa-

who felt that his family must join the modern age,

tori, taste Mindbending Merlot, or meet the Shaman

embraced this high-tech approach to growing grapes,

of Chardonnay? Hope so, but I doubt it.

a decision that he soon regretted.

I expect the wines to be delicious, of course, but I am

Joly noticed that the color of the soils changed,

not looking for the world’s greatest wine, because I

maintenance of a healthy, diverse ecosystem on the

and that the birds, animals, and beneficial insects

never look for that and probably wouldn’t know it if

farm or vineyard site;

abandoned Coulée de Serrant. The vineyard had lost

I tasted it. What I am hoping to discover in a glass of

• use of Biodynamic preparations to build soil

its life, and Nicolas Joly began his search for alterna-

Biodynamic wine is what I always look for in every

health;

tives to compacting the soil with chemicals. In 1984,

fine wine: passion.

• integration of livestock into the farming system,

after much research and vineyard trials, he found

LA PAPILLOTE

10

AOS Graduation Speaker: Philip Hickey

Philip Hickey is the chairman of the board of directors for the National Restaurant Association (NR A) , the leading business association for the restaurant industry. He previously served as treasurer for the organization. Mr. Hickey is also the chief executive officer of the Santa Rosa Beach, FL -based Jocks II, Inc., the parent company of the sports-themed restaurant Jocks & Jills, which has locations in Atlanta and Macon, GA as well as Charlotte, NC. In addition, he operates a nationwide consulting practice specializing in the hospitality industry.

Mr. Hickey was previously chairman of the board of O’Charley’s, Inc., a multi-concept public restaurant company based in Nashville, TN. He also served as chairman of the board/chief executive officer of R ARE Hospitality International, Inc., an Atlanta-based restaurant company whose concepts included LongHorn Steakhouse and The Capital Grille, until it was bought out by Darden Restaurants in 2007. R ARE Hospitality operated more than 300 restaurants, employed 20,000-plus people, and served over 55 million guests each year. From 1997 to 2007, Mr. Hickey and his team grew the company’s market capitalization from $90 million to $1.3 billion.

As a veteran of more than 35 years in the industry, Phil Hickey has experienced the restaurant

Welcome Back Returning Externs!

STUDENT

SITE NAME

Christian Brengel Taste bud’s Café Evan Bass John’s Island Corey Becker Boca Raton Resort and Club Joshua Bonime Commander’s Palace Peter Bresnahan Fork Restaurant James Broome Beekman Arms Campbell Jessica Sweet Karma Xu(PerryLiu) Cao Los Angeles Times Cassidy Caitlin SPQR Ruchi Chheda Del Posto Louie Mae Chu Sugar Flower Cake Shop Erne Daniel Oceana Restaurant Matthew Finn Rasika-Penn Quarter West End Christopher Gallen Aureole Kate Gannon Chocolate Mill Boram Han Daniel Restaurant Christopher Hatton Stowe Mountain Resort Heimbigner Megan WinVian Luis Herrera Magana The Spotted Pig Eun Hye Hong Park Avenue Café Sarah Kanter Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach Kelleher II Robert August Soo Hwan Kim DB Kitchen & Bar Rebecca Kronz Fork Restaurant Jessie Kuznitz Sugar & Spice Catering Sun Young Lee Le Bernadin Kyusung Lee Momofuku Ma Peche Leibold Alex Boca Raton Katherine Montgomery No 9 Park Julie Norman Bourbon House Inge Oberholtzer Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain Pace Emily Statler Hotel Rayor Aaron Blue Hill at Stone Barns Viola Rogers Luke Roney Kyler Stein Erickson Alexandra Ross Boca Raton Rubenstein Taylor Maialino Ju Hyeon Ryu Veritas Ashley Sheets WDW - Yacht & Beach Sicard Jude Hollywood Casinos Hailee Soenson Montage Deer Valley Song Ahram Ron Ben Israel Cakes Stabler Guy Elements John Stein CIA Publishing Swanepoel Bianca One Market Restaurant Jason Toledo Firebird Trainor New World Bistro Bar Thomas Vernot Tatiana Jean Georges Benjamin Whritenour One Market Restaurant Wind Farallon Restaurant Alana

business from many perspectives. In addition to his roles at O’Charley’s and R ARE Hospitality, he has been a single restaurant owner-operator, has co-founded a restaurant company and taken it public, and grew a concept from six restaurants to 50.

In 2002, Mr. Hickey was named Restaurateur of the Year by the Georgia Hospitality and Travel Association. Two years later, he was inducted into the Hall of Fame at The School of Hospitality Business at Michigan State University. In 2005, Mr. Hickey received the Golden Chain Award from Nation’s

Restaurant News, as well as the Chain Leadership Award from Chain Leader magazine. The following year, he was honored with the Elliott Group’s Mentor of the Year Award, and in 2008, received the People Report Legacy Award.

Mr. Hickey earned a bachelor’s degree in hospitality business from Michigan State University (MSU) and was an adjunct instructor for the Jack C. Massey Graduate School of Business at Belmont University in Nashville, TN. He is a member of the board of directors of The University School of Hospitality Business at MSU and served on the board of directors for the Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau; Hemisphere, Inc.; the Metro Atlanta Chamber of Commerce; and the Georgia Tourism Foundation.

A frequent guest lecturer at colleges and universities, Phil Hickey is co-author of the book Managing Service in Food and Beverage Operations. He is a founding board member of the YMCA Community Action Project, is an active member of the World Presidents’ Organization, and served as chairman of the board of councilors for the Jimmy Carter Center in Atlanta. Mr. Hickey lives in Santa Rosa Beach, FL with his wife Reedy.

AOS Graduating Class of July 3, 2013 Culinary Arts Group #1

STATE NY FL FL LA PA NY NY CA CA NY NY NY DC NY NY NY VT CT NY NY FL LA NY PA NY NY NY FL MA LA AZ NY NY LA UT FL NY NY FL WV UT NY NJ NY CA NY NY NY CA CA

Front: Nicole Odai Erika Iroff Preston Fritgerald Nina West Marissa Vetravis

Back: Eric Baver Ryan Carbone Leonardo Nogveira Alex Avakian Peter Garner

Culinary Arts Group #2 Front: Michael Williamson Devin Dearden Emma Taylor Renato Medrano Mitchell Roth Kelvin Le

Back: Jamsel Gyaltshen S. Morgan Olson Joe Choi Gabriel Johnson Daryl DiStefano Mike Brown

Culinary Arts Group #3 Front: Giana Chiarello Rayza Serrano Vishakha Sohal Rancdi Rose Shao-Han Ou Yang Destiny Szwiec

Back: Kyle Clark Simeon Bittman Ryan Greenbaum David J. O’Brien Matthew Sadownick Mark Tkach

POT LUCK

July 3, 2013

Industry Opportunity: Life After MIT

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BY: Giulianna Galiano, MIT Al Forno

I have always been told that when an opportunity comes along, to take it. I’ve also been told that things happen for a reason. When I got a phone call this past March with a job offer, I disregarded it at first like I’ve done so many other times in the past. As I recall though, whenever I was hesitant on a challenge but went through with it anyway (taking the risk of failing of course), things always turned out to be a success.

Therefore, I called back my old externship in Rhode Island to discuss this brand new job opening.

Shelter Harbor is a wonderful, quaint golf club that rests along the ocean in Rhode Island. Burlap shades, navy shingles, sea shells, sand, fresh seafood, sweet summer air and sparkling white stone describe this beautiful location. I had worked the Garde Manger station at the club in 2010 for my externship. My Executive Chef had called me this past spring and asked if I would be looking for a job anytime in the summer. Taken that I was the Al Forno Manager-in-Training, I immediately said no because my plan was to stick around for a while longer in Hyde Park. Yet, when the idea kept haunting

me in the back of my head to “go for it” and interview, I couldn’t resist getting back in touch with the company.

Before I knew it, I had agreed to become the new Functions Coordinator of Shelter Harbor Golf Club come this July. It was a very tough decision for me to make but I stood my ground requesting to start in July after the summer break for CIA, and I had asked for assistance in finding housing. Because of my requests, I was very satisfied with the job offer and gladly accepted it.

I am nervous, scared, anxious, stressed, optimistic and sad all at once. To leave a school that I have been a part of for the last four years is very hard for me. I don’t like change and I hate being forced to adapt into situations with no time to think. But so is life, right? It’s the food industry for crying out loud and we are lucky to even have the holidays off, let alone some weekends!

I will miss my mentor and Chef, Gianni Scappin very much and the whole Caterina crew dearly. They have been my family since October and I owe them the credit for keeping me strong and confident. I want to

thank all of my readers, followers, students, teachers, chefs, co-workers and friends for supporting me in this decision.

I cannot wait to step into management and become better-rounded in this field. I see it as a chance to grow and learn more about business and I am proud to say that I will be taking a role where I can apply the knowledge I had gained in the Bachelors program.

After all, isn’t that what the real world is about? If there is anything I have learned in the past few years, it is to stay open-minded and never settle. You yourself may get a phone call one day from an old friend presenting you a job that highlights your skills. I’m sure it’ll come out of the blue and make sense in the end. The most satisfying feeling from this school is to know that I have left my mark. I will always cherish my education from the CIA and I am glad that I stuck around for another year. It has really been a “four year” college experience for me and I wouldn’t have had it any other way. A presto-

Side Towel Scholarship– A Different Way to Give Back BY: Hollise Tirendi, CIA Advancement Officer

I am positive that each one of us at CIA has heard about at least one student we have studied with, worked with, or mentored, that has made the difficult decision to drop out of the program because of funding issues.

These are students who have proved themselves professionally and skillfully in the kitchens at the CIA, but found themselves in financial situations which would make remaining at the school difficult. Because a world-class culinary education costs money, we know the importance of building our scholarship dollars to help motivated students graduate. A CIA diploma is so much more than a piece of paper. Graduation transcends the red carpet in Farquharson Hall to be a steppingstone to a prominent career.

Chef David McCue ’93 is one of those individuals here who has taken the initiative to raise awareness about what even a small gift from each one of us can do for the our students. Chef’s efforts, along with collaborative efforts from past (MIT) Karen Pawelec ’10, have led to what we now know as the Side Towel Scholarship.

Listening to the rumors of how the Side Towel Scholarship started, I was both amused and intrigued by stories of Chef holding student’s valuable supplies for “ransom” in collecting scholarship money. Knowing these stories may have stretched the truth a bit, I decided to ask Chef McCue why and how this scholar-

ship has gained so much momentum. Chef confided the heart-wrenching stories of students he believed had so much potential who had to drop out of CIA because of lack of funds. Chef McCue thought, “Why not start a collection for students who might still need funds to stay in school after all other financial aid resources have been exhausted?” And so, when a student comes to Chef asking if he has an extra spatula or side towel, he promotes the importance of paying it forward by asking for a small contribution to the Side Towel Scholarship Fund in return for the requested item. He has found a collective generosity among our students here at CIA and that makes him very proud. Every single student Chef has spoken to about the fund has handed over a dollar for the fund. In fact, if each one of us gives a dollar, so many more lives could be changed.

We all see individual students who show natural passion and drive, love the industry, cherish every moment they are at the CIA, and will do anything they can to graduate. These students compel our faculty and staff to help make sure they achieve their dreams. These are exactly the students we hope to see graduate.

Chef McCue takes it upon himself to seek out students he and other faculty feel will benefit from the Side Towel Scholarship. We are proud that the CIA has chefs willing to work on behalf of these students. Chef McCue is only one, yet he speaks to all of us with his

commitment and recognition that a little goes a long way.

Chef McCue is always touched by his students taking this message of giving to heart. Derek Anasiewicz ‘12 is one such alumnus who provides an autopay amount that is dropped into the Side Towel Scholarship fund every month from his account. We couldn’t be more proud of this philanthropy with our young graduates.

Chef is mentoring Ed Kopp ’11, the very first recipient of the scholarship, who is devoting his time to fund raising and giving back.

On a side note, if you have some pocket change bouncing around and you believe it will be put to some good to help our community of students here at CIA, visit www.ciagiving.org and select Give Now! When you are asked to choose which CIA program you wish to support, you can select the Side Towel Scholarship as one option.

As Chef McCue states so profoundly, “Spread the word...a dollar a paycheck could change the lives of many a young professional...Spread the word. Be a hero.” I believe this message is not limited to students, alumni, staff or faculty, but encompasses all of us as a community.

If you would like to learn more about scholarship programs and help students achieve their dreams, contact James Clark at j_clark@culinary.edu.

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

I just got butt-whupping number two in Modern Banquets & Catering class. Actually, many of us had “moments” in that class.

We just finished yesterday. My grade was not what they have historically been here.

I got a B-. I’m completely aggravated by it.

It felt to me like it was the perfect storm in that class.

We’re getting towards the end of our second semester.

We’re on the downswing and out of here in mid-August to go on extern. Everyone in our class is tired and restless and ready for break. People are sick of each other, but more familiar with each other than ever. This breeds lashing out, frustration, and anger that we are no longer afraid to unleash onto someone. I am guilty.

Add the stress and pressure of the classroom, and here is our tally: One loud fight in the kitchen. One pseudo-fight between me and the new kid (who I absolutely love) the first two days of class. One drop-out.

Multiple strained friendships.

And, of course, my B-. That’s not like me. That’s not my typical work, and it bums me out, and dragged my grade point average down.

Modern Banquets and Catering has actually been my favorite class so far, because we get to cook and rely on our own skills a bit more. We had Chef Reilly, who is a complete hoot. Half sports-nut, half worldly chef, and kind of insane, he tells great stories, always maintains alpha male status, and reduced at least three of the strongest performers in our class to quivering masses of self-loathing and self-doubt.

I was one of them.

There is a balance you have to hit with Chef Reilly. He gives you just enough information to give you enough leeway to fail completely. He wants you to intuit your way through things. That’s awesome, really. I think that’s a great way to teach. The problem is, as learners, we have two modes of learning: We either need to figure things out for ourselves, or we need to be told everything step-by-step so that we are sure of every step and have the opportunity to execute dishes the correct way

the first time. We need either the freedom to do things as we see fit, learning through making mistakes and getting feedback, or knowing the best technique or the most efficient way to perform a task at the outset . The issue with the latter is, though, while you may now know the perfect technique, you become dependent on the person who is telling you how to do things.

Comically, Reilly hits the balance between information and instruction so delicately that it leaves you confused, unable to trust yourself, but feeling that if he wanted you to do it some other way, he’d surely have mentioned it.

He gives you just enough guidance to wonder. What happened to me is that I was either continually going to him with questions, or I decided that since I’m a big girl, I can make my own decisions, and then something would go so fantastically wrong that in hindsight I knew EXACTLY what information it was that Chef Reilly was trying to give to me. In hindsight.

This caused me to start to second-guess myself, and I found myself asking him about the simplest things. I stopped trusting my own judgment. I wasn’t sure which way to go. When I started to ask him about the minutiae of dishes -- because those were the things that were tripping me up -- it was hard to believe that I was actually doing the big things correctly. It started this cycle for me of second guessing myself constantly and not trusting my own instincts.

I remarked at one point that the class was like a funhouse mirror. Nothing is as it seems. The strongest performers in our class faltered, and those who sometimes falter did well. There are two kinds of people in life: Doers and thinkers. The doers just do. I’m a thinker. I overthought EVERYTHING in that class.

For the second half of our class, I was paired with one of the strongest performers in our class. Thinking we had it made with each other, we embarked on a journey of learning so painful to both of us, that our failures shocked us both. Undercooking potatoes. Two days in a row. Overcooking pearl onions. Two days in a row. We weren’t able to cut enough root vegetables

one day and our production was skimpy. Getting onions too dark in our swiss chard, a “rookie” mistake, in Reilly’s words. Not getting our potatoes in the oven soon enough one day. Timing. Productivity. Each day it was something. I missed the mother sauces question on our quiz, my 41-year-old brain was resisting remembering! Something major and something minor went wrong every day. Every. Day. We were pounding our heads into the wall. We felt terrible about ourselves and were frustrated. And, as the oldest ones in the class, and both nursing old back injuries, we were tired. We were very, very tired in that class.

It’s just going to get more intense from here out, too.

These last few weeks of the end of the second semester are really fraught with pressure and stress. We are getting used to production kitchens. Our second semester practical is looming in a few short weeks. There’s lot of studying to do and lots of homework. We are trying to get the rhythm of the production kitchen down pat so that we can serve delicious food and feel good about our performance in class.

There is no happy ending to this story, no wry conclusion, or silly lesson. This is just what happened. One of my close friends fled the kitchen in tears one day, for the same reasons my partner and I were frustrated – stupid mistakes and not yet being in the groove of a production kitchen. If one person in your group isn’t on their game that day, it drags your whole team down. I told my partner, what I learned in this class is that you bring your “A” game to culinary school, period. Every day. And you come to class prepared every day. Or you WILL crash and burn, period. Our intelligent, hard-working, skilled team made some really basic mistakes.

Cooking is fun. Sometimes class isn’t. It’s a lot like boot camp, it’s about character and skill-building.

The outcome is desirable, but the process can be painful.

Former First Lady Laura Bush Visits CIA BY: Chef Tom Peer, Senior Director - Food & Beverage Operations

As you may have read in the Poughkeepsie Journal, former first lady, Laura Bush, visited and dined at the CIA Friday, June 28th during a visit to the Hudson Valley.

Lynn Bassanese, Director of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Library and Museum stated that she met Mrs. Bush in April when she attended the opening of the George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum in Dallas. Mrs. Bush told her that she had never been to the FDR Library, so Ms. Bassanese extended an invitation to her to come and visit the next time she time she was on the east coast.

Mrs. Bush made contact to say she was traveling to Connecticut on Friday, June 2, and would enjoy touring the FDR Library, including the new

permanent exhibit set to open to the public on June 30.

Laura Bush and guests dined at the American Bounty Restaurant and the restaurant faculty and staff went into full swing. Chef Dwayne LiPuma and his students prepared beet salad and crèpes; Chef Melissa Walnock and her students prepared a shared cheese plate and chocolate covered cherries for the group while Maitre d’ Instructor

Photo Courtesy of CIA

Bruce Lavender and his students provided service to Mrs. Bush and guests. The visit was a success, and at the end of her luncheon Mrs. Bush graciously posed for a photo with our students.