Volume 36, No.09
July 2 2015
The Egg Cracking Ceremony
Off icial Opening of CIA’s New Student Eatery
BY: Emilio Cerra, AOS Culinary Monday, June 29th, marked the beginning of a two-day celebration commemorating the opening of the long awaited Egg, the newest iteration and addition to the Student Commons here at the Culinary Institute of America. Monday’s focus was an egg cracking ceremony and a faculty/staff gathering, with foods and drinks a-plenty. The opening ceremonies took place in front of the main entrance to the Egg, located to the left of the entrance to the rest of the student commons. Along with a small stage, there was also a statue of something hidden behind plywood ended up being grandiosely reveled with confetti and fanfare to be an enormous, dark-steel colored egg, presumably made of metal. Senior Director of Food and Beverage Operations Waldy Malouf ’75 , Provost Mark Erikson, ’77, and President Tim Ryan, ’77, all gave short speeches celebrating this exciting day as well as a short song from the Half Moon Theater Company. Provost Erikson remarked nostalgically about the drastic improvement the Egg was compared to the recreation center from his time at the CIA, which consisted of a “broken pool table and one paddle to play ping-pong,” a comment that received laughter from the crowd. President Ryan said since “we can’t make omelette without breaking
BY: Heather McCaffery, AOS Baking & Pastry
The Leadership Awards
I have been told that you meet people twice on this campus: once in their whites, and once in their casual clothing; however, I would like to add a third meeting to this list: a meeting in formal clothing. Recently I saw familiar faces seen around campus suddenly dressed so that they were befitting of the term “dapper”. The reason for the formal attire? The Leadership Awards Dinner at Caterina de Medici on June 21st. There are numerous students and faculty members who devote staggering amounts of time, energy, and dedication to making campus life interesting and dynamic. At the Leadership Awards Dinner, these members of campus society were recognized for their hard work across campus. One award winner in particular I would like to draw attention to: Eric Howard. Eric Howard has been a part of CIA life on campus for five years and it was announced at the awards dinner that he would be leaving the CIA and heading on the further his career at University of Rochester. With a calm demeanor, great work ethic, and overall easy going personality, Eric Howard has been a major
“Menus of Change”
President Tim Ryan unveils the Egg photo courtesy of Emilio Cerra a few eggs, we also can’t make progess without making an egg.” In partnership with Restaurant Associates, a subsidiary of Compass Group North America and, according to their website, “recognized as the nation’s premier hospitality company,” the Egg was created to be a facility “as much about education as it is about providing a wonderful gathering place and offering great meal choices” said President Ryan. The Egg will offer choices such as ramen, sandwiches, salads, and frozen yogurt along with a marketplace with fresh fruit choices and produce available for purchase either using blue, green, or gold points as well as credit/debit cards. Interestingly enough, the Egg will be a cash free venue. Brooklyn Brewery has also setup shop and will not only be selling beer but also providing fermentation and brewing classes in conjunction with CIA faculty
members starting next Fall. The High-Volume Production class will also move into the Egg, and will colloquially be called “The Line.” Hopefully the food remains as delicious as the samples they were offering on this day. President Ryan commented that “the Egg offers many new educational opportunities that reinforce the Culinary Institute of America’s standing as ‘the world’s premier culinary college’” and wrapped the ceremony up stating that “our expanded Student Commons project marks a milestone for the college as we continue in our quest to deliver the world’s best culinary education.” Although I have high expectations, hopefully the Egg will live up to the hype that has been building for many months. The hours of operations at the Egg will be 5:30am to 11:00pm Monday – Friday, and 9:00am to 11:00pm Saturday – Sunday. There is no dress code in the Egg, jeans and more casual dress are welcome. There are no garbage cans in the dining room, all waste items are to be brought to the back of the dining room where all food waste will be composted. Wines on tap in the Egg are currently produced by Dutchess County’s Millbrook Winery, and include both their Tocai Friulano and Pinot Noir varieties. CIA student-brewed beers will be available this fall, once the new Art and Science of Brewing course begins. There are many new and exciting things at the Egg, come down and see our new nest for yourself !
“Food Writing Files”
Winners of the Leadership Awards photo courtesy of Heather McCaffery influence on student organizations for many years. He was awarded the Exceptional Advisor Award after his work as Chief of the Brew club and was also presented with a plaque with all the clubs listed. Best Student Run Program or Event: Tacos & Wings – Black Culinarian Society Outstanding ResLife Social Program: Cookies & Milk – The Lodges Outstanding ResLife Education Program: Let’s Talk About Sex – All Halls
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Outstanding New Organization: Fromage Friends Outstanding Student Organization: Black Culinarian Society Outstanding New RA: Jasmine Moorer – The Lodges Outstanding Leader of a Student Organization: Chieyen Meachem – Black Culinarian Society Exceptional Advisor: Eric Howard – Brew Club Rising Star Student Leader: Christian Washington – Black Culinarian Society Outstanding RA/SRA: James Bickmore-Hutt – Angell Hall Unsung Hero: Haylee Beach Shaddock – SPICE Unsung RA: Liam MacLeod – Angell Hall Outstanding Contribution to Campus Life through Student Government: Jennifer Kempin – President Outstanding SPICE Leader: Amanda Verni RA/SRA GPA Award: Andrew Rutledge Thank you to all our student and faculty leaders, our lives and campus are better for having known you and we look forward to all your new ideas and continued dedication in the future.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Editorial
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
July 2, 2015
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Yi Si (Crystal) Tan LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Emilio Cerra Heather McCaffery Yi Si (Crystal) Tan Rachel Zairan Zhou Andrew Rutelage Amanda Tunjian Kevin Markey Jessica English
COMPACT
Menus of Change:
The Business of Healthy, Sustainable, Delicious Food Choices
Nico Dellenback Benjamin Wolff Sera Park Katie Fenton Taha Khan Faye Ransom Sarah Lubitz Melissa McQuoid
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
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Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
On June 16th – 18th, 2015, many new faces were seen around campus as students looked on curiously. These were the leaders in the culinary arts, business, public health, and environmental sciences that had gathered here for the third annual Menus of Change Initiative. Menus of Change is a ground-breaking initiative developed by The Culinary Institute of America in collaboration with the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. Together, CIA and Harvard are working to create a long-term, practical vision for the integration of optimal nutrition and public health, environmental stewardship and social responsibility concerns within the foodservice sector and beyond. As a CIA student audit, I attended several sessions of Menus of Change and learned about our society’s most pressing social and environmental concerns, and the solutions presented by knowledgeable presenters. The first session I attended was the Welcome and Opening General Session. The insight for Menus of Change is informing and fostering change around food choices. Menus of Change also included the future of food and how the business of food needs to change to stay in the competition and be successful. The vision of the initiative is to create menus and food choices that would help the future of food through integrated guidance for business and culinary leaders. The many subjects covered were health concerns, sourcing and production of food, and the challenge of feeding the global population as resources declines. At Menus of Change, the complication is to get beyond single issues for a long view, how can we feed a planet of nine to ten billion people in the run up to 2050 with
declining water and land resources? Recent and upcoming CIA graduates will be facing these problems during the peak of their careers. The solution is the unapologetic elevation of deliciousness as a global health and sustainability imperative. Dr. Willet, professor of epidemiology and nutrition and chairman of the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, discussed how to change to healthy, sustainable, and delicious food. We should drive innovation and change through business and culinary leaders. Menus have always been a large part of any food establishment, and changing menus matters. Water footprints of food would also need to be considered when developing menus. Menu concepts and general operations with foods and ingredients have changed, and so did the fundamentals of the food service industry. This year’s “it” ingredients were decidedly healthy, and last year’s, kale and brussel sprouts, are now mainstream. The trend of reducing red meats in consumers’ diets will have positive effects for both personal health and the environment. When it comes to Performance Dashboard, the lion in the room is climate change, and its sharpest tooth is the issue of water sustainability. Emissions continue to rise, while agriculture both contributes to that and is affected by it. Our industry needs to direct our collective purchasing power towards better choices. The business aspect was also discussed. We hope to shape consumers through design and contribute to our earth, our industry, and our health in a positive way. During the general session titled, “Changing Consumer Behaviors and Attitudes,” Professor Markman of Stanford University presented a study of nutritional education for young children. Her goal is to design nutritive education for very young children. There is a widespread consensus that starting healthy eating habits early has cascading benefits. Through knowledge-based health interventions and stealth interventions, consumers’ behaviors can be changed. Chefs can be promoters of stealth change by not only creating delicious, tempting, available and affordable menus based on nutrition research, but can also control menu placements and plate sizes. Knowledgebased intervention provides advice and instructions without coherent rationale. However, cognition in children is often theory based. Professor Markman’s goal is to teach young children the importance of eating a variety of healthy food. A group of children were taught concepts through a picture book, the Variety Book, where the importance of variety is highlighted with the use of daily objects. The group of children taught with materials have a much more sophisticated, coherent view of food and digestion and understand the relation between food and nutrients compared to the control group. I find this study particularly fascinating because I can relate this study to my childhood. I was told by adults to eat a variety of food
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Menus of Change Continued
or I would get sick. However, I did not understand why until I was older. If I had participated in this study group, I would have had a better understanding and would have had an easier time choosing a variety of foods. Vegetables have become trendy ingredients and stars of dishes, and this was shown during Chef Amanda Cohen’s demo session, titled “Anyone Can Cook a Hamburger, Leave the Vegetables to the Professionals.” Chef Cohen is the chef/owner of the all-vegetable restaurant Dirt Candy. In her session, Chef Cohen demonstrated a tomato cake with feta. This dish was composed of a tomato cake, tomato leather, marinated tomatoes, and smoked feta cream. The tomato cake was made with dehydrated tomato powder, and the feta was smoked for a unique flavor. Chef Cohen believes that vegetables are candy from the earth, and that is where the name Dirt Candy came from. During the breakout session “Changing the Conversation: The Media’s Role in the Message of “PlantForward,” journalists Kim Severson, Jane Black, and Sarah Nassauer discussed how the media is shaping the narrative around the new plant-forward approach trend. The three panelists shared their thoughts on what makes a good story, and they agreed upon favorable topics worth sharing, such as less conventional views of common subjects, unique data from researches, process stories with successes
and failures, and consumer insights. The role of the media is to report truth in an interesting way by asking strong questions and having an unblinking eye on what is true. In conclusion, journalists in the media do not have an obligation to change consumers’ mindset, but on the subject of food, they are advocates of the delicious and the truth. For the closing remarks on June 19th, Claus Meyer, co-founder of Noma, shared his story in the session titled, “Imagining the Future.” As founder of the Meyer Group, Mr. Meyer shared his dream of hanging a more admirable food culture to our children than the one we inherited. His Melting Pot Foundation is a non-profit organization dedicated to combating poverty and resocialization through deliciousness. Mr. Meyer urged us to “speak up, get [our] message through, open hearts.” Menus of Change was an incredible three days for me. As a student audit, I was able to sit in and learn about the many pressing issues facing the food industry. Food knowledge is important to us students because, as soon to be graduates, the problems of the future will soon become our present.
Clause Meyer does closing remarks during Menus of Change photo courtesy of Phil Mansfield
BY: Rachel Zairan Zhou, AOS Culinary
Great Greek Gala
I have been watching for this festival for months. One day, my friend and classmate, Victoria, a local guide and the walking map in Poughkeepsie, asked me whether I love Greek food or not. That time, she was taking me to some local spots to spend our weekend, and we just had our brunch. I had no idea why she asked me so, but my sixth sense suggested that something would happen. Just as expected, when we turned a corner, a humble but observable poster leapt to my eye. “ GREEK FESTIVAL 2015, JUNE 18TH, 19TH, 20TH,21ST, JOIN US FOR 4 DAYS OF DANCING, FOOD & F UN!” Wow, she was inquiring for our next hang-out! Greek festival where dancing and performance, should be entertaining and exotic and exquisite souvenirs can be found. But Greek dishes and pastries? How can a culinary student miss this kind of opportunity?! Plus, as a fan of the Mediterranean, I would be kidding myself if I turned down such an invitation. Ever since then, every couple of days, I kept confirming Victoria`s schedule on that week to make sure she would be available to go with me. I was so grateful that by the end of the week, she did not and had no intention to sue me for “harassment”. We headed for the scene at dinnertime on the first day, June 18th, when we had enjoyed a beautiful prelude of Mediterranean lunch from CE-Kitchen. The festival was held on 140 South Grand Avenue, which was not so far from the campus, but I still got lost after several twists and turns. Just at the moment when we were wondering where we were, I noticed nothing but the trademark blue and white tents beside the Kimisis Greek Orthodox Church. Here we were, the 36th Greek Festival in Poughkeepsie. Welcomed by a whiff of gyro and souvlaki at the entrance, we were astonished by a stunning show of classical Greek dishes being exhibited on food carts. Moussaka, spanakopita, dolmades, you name it. Want something sweet? I was pretty sure this festival was also bait for baking bugs. You could find baklava, koulourakia, karithopita, and, of course, the famous loukoumades. These tiny fried doughs drizzled with honey, cinnamon and walnuts were like gold medals, awarding food lovers for their attendance.
A long queue formed in front of the gyro and souvlaki spot, but Victoria joined the waiting party without any hesitation. From the bottom of the line, I could sneak a peek of gleaming fume from grilled lamb (or chicken), on the groves of vertical spits. The line moved forward quickly; when I just finished snacking my Italian ice cream, which is from Benny and Caesars. The Merlot flavor just rocked. I kind of regret not saving this as my dessert at that point.) Victoria was approaching to present her whole plate of traditional Greek dinner. Lamb gyro at first, wrapped in aluminium foil; one box of Greek salad, with feta cheese, kalamata olives and credited Greek salad dressing from Four Brothers, and of course, her favourite sweets, the beautiful loukoumades balls. Winking with a knowing smile, I was itching to cease my agitated taste buds. There were so many choices on the menu, and all were tempting and irresistible, but I knew my prey was the braised lamb shank. Lamb, as well as sheep, has always been supreme and cherished in Greek culture, and the ways that Greek people deal with the lamb are versatile. This braised lamb dish is a favorite for Sunday brunch and birthday dinners. It is the epitome of gathering and sharing, and truly special, since it takes really long to cook—some cookbooks suggest for up to 24 hours. The housewives can utilize their passion and patience to prepare a comforting feast for a family in advance. The lamb was $17, including one box of salad and a freshly-baked roll. A little pricey for me, but the quantity was way beyond my imagination. An entire lamb shank with tomato sauce mounted over the spice-scented pilaf, and I was worried about whether disposable knives and forks could handle this giant. Well, I seemed to be overconcerned. The braised flesh was succulent and easy to be taken from the bone; while the theme was steady and memorable, you could still taste the subtle intermezzo of acid and aromatics when the symphony augmented, and then the whole performance cultivated in a harmonic phrase with the pairing pilaf. Though having enjoyed a delightful meal, I was wondering why they celebrated the “Greek Festival” in early summer when there would not be important Greek festivals around. This annual Greek Festival had been held in Poughkeepsie for 36 years, and some of the vendors came every year. One of the hosting ladies told me, all the
photo courtsey of Rachel Zairan Zhou exhibitors were fellowships of the Kimisis Tis Theotokou parish in Poughkeepsie, and a large amount of them had Greek origin. In late June, most of the kids would start to enjoy their summer break, so brothers and sisters decided to gather, in honor of the great Greek culture, sharing and enjoying the adorable summertime together. It is a celebration of devotion, gratitude, and love. It is a purely private party, though the public attendance is welcome. Frankly speaking, after racking my Chinese brain for cleaning any residual meat on the bone meticulously, there would be no place for the dessert. However, I could make a piece of karithopita “TO-GO”. We were on our way back to the CIA. I stole a little bite, and the perfume of walnut and honey syrup engulfed the whole car, just like the delightful summer sunshine and the sweet hearts of fellowship in the community.
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Food Writing Files
BY: Andrew Rutelage, BPS Culinary
In Defense of Pimento Cheese
Pimento cheese is, I think, the mortar that binds me, as a person, together. All of those whirling fragments of my personality, spinning ever-outward, forced by the gravity of my enterprise, seem always to be on the cusp of disseminating into collapse. Without it, I imagine I’d be reduced to a sad puddle, left to rot away in the bottom of some wet and ancient waste bin. It’s largely due to this simple condiment that I am who I am, existing at all, in this very moment. I’ve learned over my few years as an eater that food has a strangely constant rhythm; it serves as an epochal gravity that binds our experience as human beings. This unconditional property of food, which seems to somehow permeate time, is one of the great mysteries of our somatic existence. But hey, it’s just pimento cheese. The most common Yankee response to, as my Uncle calls it, the “twenty-four carat spread” is, “What is that stuff ? It looks too [yellow, slimy, sludgy, gross, goopy, gloopy, poopy, ew]!” To this I say nothing, returning blissfully to my ephemeral, cheddary state. I’ve been asked once or twice in a myriad of instances, “Can we make peanut butter and jelly sandwiches?” Go right ahead, but I will not be making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich; please take your stale, tiresome staple elsewhere. I’ll be sitting right here, worshipping the magnificent creation that is this pimento cheese sandwich, contentedly, as I watch your faces twist in disgust. All of this sniveling fuss is ironic of course, because the delicious dairy spread actually originated right here in colonial New England (but, God help you, don’t tell my Mother). However, I’ll admit, my cultural attachment to the cheese is entirely secondary. I eat it, for the same reason many people eat many other things that I find revolting (Fritos™, Cheetos™, and gefilte fish, to name a few), because I always have; pimento cheese sandwiches, and those who made them for me, were there for me when other things and people weren’t. It’s not because pimento cheese is the pinnacle of bluegrass cuisine, or because the pimentos are GMO-free, or whatever, but rather, I’d guess, it’s because I owe some debt to the spread. I have this unofficial obligation to it, to my aunt, who still, even in her
often vacant dementia-induced state, expresses her love by making these sandwiches. Her soft hands, warped by the arthritic bend of time are, in my experience, the deftest in the art of nourishment. But what I’m really trying to say is that I’m only capable of writing this, of being a relatively functional person at all, because she never stopped putting those pimento cheese sandwiches in front of me. My late uncle would sometimes smile at me and say, half-garbled in the act of chewing, “If this ain’t love, reckon I don’t know what is.” The glorious spread is built by using the strapping cohesion of mayonnaise, the sweet and meaty pimento, a dash of cayenne (also known as “hot-pepper”), “enough” salt, Tabasco™ & Worcestershire™. All of which are the beginnings of what will eventually coalesce into a cheesy temple of umami. However, those ingredients are almost peripheral; the anchor, my aunt always tells me, is “noofcha-tell; the fancy cheese.” It was this Neufchâtel, this bourgeois dairy, which married distinct ingredients into something exceptional. A product singular in nature; irreplaceable, both in flavor and in relevancy. A nauseating combination according to many diners north of the Mason-Dixon, but to so many others it is the quintessential embodiment of family and togetherness. Pimento cheese is a time machine. When it hits my aunt’s tongue the fog lifts; she sees me as her nephew, five years old and four feet tall. Cognition fills her eyes like jewels. She smiles. Every time. The most interesting thing to me about pimento cheese is that when I eat it, no matter where I am, what company I’m with, how raucously loud or hauntingly quiet the room might be, I always feel the same glowing radiance that grips me through a window that’s slowly melting with age. The heat pulsates over the skin on my arms, the coolness of the enamel countertop, the opacity of viridescent milk glass; it’s all there. Suddenly everything is plaid.
Super Smash Showdown BY: Heather McCaffery, AOS Baking & Pastry On July 18th, in the student recreation center, a new event is making its debut. A Super Smash Bros tournament, hosted by Tabletop Gaming Club, will be found in room thirtyseven. Registration starts at 10 am, and the tournament itself will begin at 12 pm. Super Smash Bros, or just ‘Smash’ as it is affectionately called by the Tabletop Gaming Club, is a multiplayer fighting game in which characters from numerous Nintendo games duke it out on a variety of battle-stages. The competitors will be divided into brackets which will compete until only one player is left standing. The reward? Raffle tickets! To enter the competition, raffle tickets for $3 must be purchased during registration. These tickets give people the opportunity to win from $30 worth of Amazon gift cards. First place receives an extra ten raffle tickets and second place receives an extra five tickets at no extra cost. For those who are not interested in the competition, another screen will be available for alternate game setups for casual play. Tabletop Gaming will also be providing food and drink at the tournament.
The walls are paneled in dark, thin planks of wood that are peppered with mounted largemouth trophy bass. Pimento cheese smells like a still body of water. Those glassy Kentucky lakes that find themselves cut, tacked back and forth, by small motor boats in the early morning. Pimento cheese smells like diesel fumes and rusted metal, and like tobacco hanging in the rafters. It smells like silence, and the feeling that one gets watching the sun melt into the water. Pimento cheese tastes like how I felt when I caught my first rainbow trout, flipping and flopping on the deck of the boat, writhing until its last sputtering breath. I eat this sandwich and hear the groaning creak of a white, paint-chipped, wicker porch swing. I eat a pimento cheese sandwich and I feel myself wrenched back down to Earth by the neck, pulled from my grueling orbit back to where things make sense. A silly little sandwich, of all things, is what grounds me. It’s funny the places, the little fractures in our lives, where power, and guilt, and love choose to seep and bleed themselves into; I guess one of mine is a sandwich. I eat pimento cheese slathered with careless haste between two pieces of spongy white bread, preferably Wonder™, cut diagonally with a curl of iceberg lettuce and a sun-warmed beefsteak tomato with a pinch of salt. There’s a pond to my left, and another one to my right, and I can see the sun falling back behind the hills through the wooden slats of our barn. And that’s it, that’s everything. Then, in that moment, there is no difference between the sun-glowed curvature of that grassy hilltop and the gossamer fringe of the Universe. Everything falls into place, the fragmented lines of my perception finally match, if that makes any sense at all, and the edges of those billowy cotton clouds are like church glass, stained a coruscating orange, as they snap into an arrestingly sharp definition.
If that’s not love, I don’t know what is.
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Ingredients Of Leadership BY: Amanda Tunjian, AOS Baking & Pastry During the Ingredients Of Leadership conference on Monday, June 22, 2015, there were five women who showed up to give their experiences about being a woman in a leadership role. These five women, Edna Morris, Lorna Donatone, Maureen Hurley, Arianne Daguin, and Kathy Haines; all hold high roles within the restaurant and hospitality industry. All of them are director, founder, or executive roles within each represented company. To start off the day, Jen Kempin, who was the facilitator, asked questions about each role, started off with this question, “Have you experienced discrimination?” Jen Kempin, SGA President and an activist for feminism, was a great pick to ask all of these questions. As a friend of hers, I see day in and day out how she defends women in general because no one should be treated differently based on gender. Jen, having worked in the industry for years has pretty much seen everything, so when she asked the guests this question, I stopped for second and thought, “Wow, she really broke the ice by asking that question first!” The guests started answering one by one and each guest became more interesting as the question was answered. Arianne Daguin, of French descent, caught my eye immediately when she answered. Daguin spoke of how she was the oldest of three children; her family owned a business, and she was always told her brother would take over the business. Her parents never believed she would because she was a female. However, she fought to be able to take over the family business. She stood up and owned her womanhood because, if not, she would have been looked down upon. Lorna Donatone, the COO and vice president of Sodexo, spoke just after Arianne and said that you should “fight for your place!” Women in today’s society always fight for their place in any industry. There are many men
BY: Kevin Markey, ACE Culinary
who have taken on leadership roles because women are just simply overlooked. Just after Lorna said that, she shared a little story with the audience, she said, “I was asked one day if I had received the promotion I take on now because I am female.” She responded to whom asked her with, “Absolutely not!” You should never assume someone has received a promotion because of their gender. Whether you are a man or a woman, you should receive a promotion because you have worked for it. She did, and had since then helped the company progress. As I spoke to two women at the conference, I sat down with Kathy Haines, from Wegmans. Haines holds the position of Director of Restaurants and Market Cafes with dignity; when she talked about her work at the roundtable talk, she was so excited to share everything about it. She was full of energy and wanted every person at the table to know what Wegmans really is. As we introduced ourselves at the round table conversation, a subject that came up that is very popular in today’s society: “What do you think of diversity?” Diversity is widely known throughout our industry and in other industries. In our industry, we have the pleasure of getting to meet many people from all over the world. One thing that Haines shared with the table was that you should always listen. She listens very well to her employees and makes sure that their needs are tended to. At school, we have a wide range of diversity and it still, to this day, amazes me how different each person is. Each person is from a different part of the world, and has something different to bring to the table. We were taught about leadership and how anyone, not only women, should react in the work force should they want a leadership position. Do not ever assume that you will not get a position. As long as you believe in and work hard to make progress for the company in its years, you will be considered!
Progression of Fromage Friends
BY: Jessica England, AOS Culinary
Thank you for all the support fellow Fromage Friends! We have been enjoying learning new things with each new friend we make. We hope that your experiences have been positive and that the cheeses we have tasted so far have tickled your taste buds and expanded your palate. Our most recent meetings have been a great success. At the Bacchus and Fromage Friends collaboration we had a wonderful turn out tasting and enhancing flavors through pairings. Some pairings that guests seem to admire most included the Ruby Port Ferrera with a pungent Roquefort bleu as well as Lustau Sherry married with a Taleggio, and lastly there seemed to be many fans of Stella Asiago harmonising with 2013 Malbec Ben Marco. We laughed, we cried, we ate cheese, we drank wine, and we will all be closer because of it. Our latest meeting explored cheeses of the Hudson Valley featuring a unique array of goat, sheep and cows milk varieties. We balanced them with sweet accompaniments including wild berry preserves and honey atop thin crackers. Most cheeses were bold in character, the mildest of all the cheese served was Batch # 35 by Sprout Creek Farm. It is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese that many thought resembled a cheddar in taste but had quite a springy and, according to some members, a bouncy texture. I was happy to see so many pleased faces asking for seconds! We also featured a buttery combination of the finest Hudson Valley sheep from Old Chatham Farm and cow’s milk camembert named after owner Nancy of Old Chatham Farms. This was a soft/ bloomy rind cheese that brought along a very unique vibe among our cheese crowd. We welcome all to join us for our upcoming meetings. This semester we plan on having an Italian cheese tasting, a mozzarella making event as well some grand fundraisers in our mists!
The True Cost of Freedom
This weekend, we celebrate our country’s birth, our freedom from an oppressive government. The pride we feel is important, yet I cannot help but feel that I have to ask; are we truly free? Are we all proud about the same set of events that led to our freedom? America’s freedom from Britain was born in 1776, but almost a third of Americans freedom did not exist until 1865, and another 50% of Americans were not considered equal until 1919. Some could argue that, still today, many Americans are not afforded the same freedoms as others. I cannot accept that freedom has levels. That somehow based on your status, whether socially, economically, educationally, or otherwise, one human being is entitled to more freedom than another. Yet, that is the reality of the freedom we have. One may read this and think I am being unpatriotic, but I, in fact, am being patriotic. As a veteran, as an American, but, more importantly, as a human being, I am looking at the past and trying to figure out a way to the build a better future. I do not live and breathe “Food is Life.” Food is merely one of the means that which we live by. The great chef Salvatore Veca said, “Making food, eating food, having food. A bold challenge in difficult times.” This rings true to me, for today is a difficult time. Billions of people all over the world do no not have enough food. Food is a resource and, like water or oil, if we do not replenish sustainably, it will disappear. In our society, resources are potential capital. Our current economic model, capitalism, requires that resources are bought and sold in a ‘free market.’ Without turning this article into a lesson in
economics, and without sounding too supportive of socialism (uh oh, bad word), I pose this question: If the market is free, does that not mean the ability to change it is in our hands? Have you ever heard someone say, “Well, it’s a free country isn’t it?” I am not so sure that is. First of all, nothing is free, there is hidden cost in all commodities. Secondly, we all pay taxes, or should at least, and that money goes to the infrastructure that supports us, or should at least. Third, men and women have paid the ultimate price to ensure that we are granted freedom. A higher cost does not exist. But, lastly, the point I am trying to make is this: that the freedom that my brothers and sisters died to protect is a façade. A veil of freedoms covering our face so we do not realize the truth about how our system really works. The comical version is sausage and laws, the two things you do not want to know how are made. Well, most of us already know how to make sausage, but, in case you do not know how they make laws, here is the abridged version. Nine times out of ten, laws are written by a company, or by a group of companies, represented by a lobbying group. Say, in this hypothetical, the company is Monsanto. Monsanto wants to get Congress to pass a law letting them bypass most food safety laws. However, they do not want everyone to know that their trying to get this law passed, as that would be bad for business. So, they hire a lobbying group to take the law to Congress. These lobbyists then quietly convince our representatives to vote for Monsanto’s law. The men and women that were elected to lookout for us, the people, take ‘campaign contributions’ from corporations. This is not democracy, it is oligarchy. That hypothetical with Monsanto by the way, not a hypo-
thetical. It really happened back in 2013; HR 933: The Monsanto Protection Act. You are probably familiar with NAF TA, the North American Free Trade Agreement, and the problems it has created in many of the impoverished countries to our south. But, you may not know about TPP, The Trans Pacific Partnership. It has been jokingly referred to as ‘NAF TA on roids’. Now, with twelve countries on board, TPP deals less with trade and more with corporate greed mongering. TPP allows corporations to travel from one country to the next within itself, to avoid tax laws. It also has provisions limiting intellectual property, which is angering to the proponents of the US Patent law code. By the way, it was just passed by Congress and awaits the President’s approval now. So, what do we do? How do we use the free market to our advantage and effect change? We vote with our dollars, just the same way the lobbyists do. We choose to support companies that do not attempt to influence law to their benefit without regard for the consumer. I am not going to sit here and pretend like I have never purchased gas or eaten junk food because I have. Most of us have. But, if all of us started doing it much, much less frequently, profit margins would shift and investors would take notice, and then and that point the free market takes over. Either the company progresses and makes changes for the better, or it dies off. As Americans, it is our right to choose what we believe in. I choose to believe the system is repairable. Do you? We, as students, have a bit of a different view on freedom. Our rights are limited because we belong to an institution. But, that does not mean they are nonexistent.
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
BY: Nico Dellenback, BPS Culinary
Food: Made with Care
What gives people the desire to visit restaurants? A restaurant visit can signify the end of a tough week, the beginning of a new relationship, the celebration of an event, or simply an excuse to spend time with people we care for. However, as culinary and baking students should we not just do this ourselves? Why did we not just go to the store, buy a steak, a bottle of wine, and save the money? Personally, the reason I am willing to spend the money to visit the nicer restaurants is because I feel that I am paying for the cooks to show care and love in their food. At Trattoria San Giorgio I do not have to worry about love being put into the food, because from the moment you walk into the humble dining room to your final bite, compassion and thoughtfulness can be seen on the faces of the staff and the food on the plate. A meager 25-minute drive from our campus, Trattoria San Giorgio is located in Milbrook, New York. The drive leads you over green hills, blooming fields, and past red barns. To any person that appreciates their natural surroundings, the beauty of the drive alone should be reason enough to visit this small Italian restaurant. Once you arrive, you will notice the traditional pizza oven. At TSG, serving traditional Neapolitan pizza has been part of their menu since the day they opened. It is a simple recipe. When making simple recipes the skill and precision of the cook is what makes it memorable. The margherita pizza served at TSG is an example of that. The crust is bubbly and delicate, and provides each bite with texture and well developed flavor from the 900°F oven. The sauce is made fresh everyday. The acidity from the sauce compliments the creamy buffalo mozzarella and aroma of fresh basil. The editor of La Papillote and I were lucky enough to enjoy several different courses provided by CIA alumnus, Mark Bolchoz ‘14. Mark recently became the executive chef at TSG earlier this spring. Before settling down here with his fiance, also the pastry chef, Mark worked at several restaurants in the Hudson Valley. This includes, Gusto in Poughkeepsie, where he held the position of sous chef, and Market St. in Rhinebeck. His greatest influence
BY: Benjamin Wolff, BPS Culinary If you have got twenty-five dollars in your pocket and a hankering for some authentic Vietnamese food, Pan Zúr in Tivoli is definitely a place to visit. It is about a half hour from school, but it is certainly well worth the drive. CIA grad Rei Peraza represents the CIA with pride, going above and beyond to impress. They have a “family meal” special on Wednesdays where you get three courses for twenty-five. Yes, twenty-five. The décor of the restaurant reminded me of many joints around here: simple, yet elegant, mainly focusing on the service and the food. I call this “casual fine dining.” The courses consisted of a shrimp and squid ceviche, then a pork confit bánh mì, ending with a coconut and lemongrass sorbet. My crew and I got a few appetizers and cocktails before the family meal came out. I started off with a white margarita served in a rocks glass for six bucks, which was light and sweet. We ordered two separate appetizers apart from the special, croquettes and pork belly. The croquettes reminded me of classic Italian risotto balls. They had a wonderful creamy texture, and the middle oozed out after the first bite. It complimented the crunch from the fried exterior and the smoked aioli brought it all together. We also got cherry-sherry glazed pork belly, which was tender and chewy with a sweet, tangy sauce. It was certainly one of the best pork belly
photo courtesy of Nico Dellenbeck came from a fellow CIA Alumnus. He says,”I started on sauté at Shadows on the Hudson under Nick Brower, one of the largest influences in my career thus far. I became the sous chef and stayed for a year until leaving to work at Gusto for Gianni Scappin”. Mark surrounds himself with people that share his values. He says, “The people I work with are 80% of my success. The owners, Joe and Gordana Comizio, support me in all of the culinary decisions I make. None of those decisions are made without hours of discussion with my Sous Chef, Josh Begley ’13, and my fiancé/pastry chef Ariana Galluscio ’14. All of our success in the kitchen comes from the servers’ success at properly conveying the food to the guests so the whole thing comes full circle”. Concerning the food he enjoys he says, “Obviously Italian, but generally the ‘peasant food’ of any country or cultures people. They cook out of necessity with the utmost respect for the ingredients and that is how great dishes and flavors are born”. It was obvious that his food was made with respect as well. Our first course was a watermelon and goat cheese salad. Once again, simplicity and care at it finest. This
course was a perfect introduction to Mark’s food as well as providing pleasant relief to the hot weather. Mark takes pride in his skill making pasta. The styles of pastas offered change regularly. Our first taste was of the corn and crab ravioli. The mixture of scamorza cheese and corn in the filling provided a balanced level of richness. The pasta was tossed with lightly cooked heirloom tomatoes and crab meat. Each bite was enhanced by the addition of fresh lemon juice and herbs. Personally, my favorite dish was the whole wheat pappardelle and pesto served with roasted oyster mushrooms. The flour adds a unique depth of flavor and texture for the pasta. The mushrooms were nicely caramelized and reminded us how lucky we were to be in the Hudson Valley. The area is full of great produce and Mark takes advantage of that. Pictures and descriptions can only tell part of the story of TSG. It is honestly a pleasant all around experience and, hopefully, will be the home to Mark and his family for a long time. We are lucky to have him in the area. Visit the restaurant and see for yourself a true example of food made with skill and care.
Pan Zúr
dishes I have ever had. After our appetizers were finished (not including in the special), we got the first course from the family meal, ceviche. The balance of flavors in this ceviche between the acidic first bite and the sweet after taste made my taste buds tingle. The squid had a wonderful texture, perfectly cooked and blended well with the shrimp. The second course was a pork confit bánh mì, which contained pork confit, basil, mint, chilies, and carrots, topped with a caramelized fish sauce and a pâté spread on a baguette. The inside of the sandwich was one of the best bánh mì I have ever had. The taste from the sauce and the pâté went perfectly together making my mouth water for more. The bread was a little tougher than necessary and gave the sandwich too much of a bite. The flavor components were on point, and the only thing I had to criticize was the hard bite from the bread. The last course was a coconut and lemongrass sorbet with dried papaya in between. The lemongrass flavor with the coconut ice cream was superb. The lemongrass was very tart and the coconut evened it out with its bold, creamy texture. They paired extremely well together and were nice palate cleansers after the flavorful sandwich. After finishing this delicious family meal, I was beyond full and pleasantly surprised by the high quality Vietnamese food. If you are looking for a little road trip and a fun night out, Pan Zúr is the place to go.
photo courtesy of Benjamin Wolff
July 2, 2015
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Brilliant Ideas of Approaching Bibimbap in a New Way
BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking & Pastry
On June 14th, the bibimbap competition, “Show Me Your Bibimbap,” was held at Farquharson Hall. As I stepped into the hall, I could not discern if it was a food festival or a competition. Vibrant K-pop music was playing, the competitors were busy, and a crowd gathered around where the food was. In the middle of the hall, there were several tasting booths. Appetizing Korean foods, melona (Korean melon icecream bar), kimchi in four different styles, tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), gimbap (seaweed rice rolls), japchae (sauted vegetqables with potato noodles), bulgogi, (Korean barbecued beef ) were fully lined. In addition, Professor Mauro Sessarego’s specialty gelato created an atmosphere of fun at the event. In this exciting atmosphere, people were sharing their comments on the inventive bibimbap dishes from six teams. The original objective of this event was to introduce a Korean comfort food, bibimbap, which has a great nutritional value. The other objective was to find new approaches of it t created by the CIA students. The three judges were MeeKyoung Kim from Korea Agro-Fisheries and Food Trade Corporation, Chef Shirley Shuliang Cheng from The Culinary Institute of America, and Chef Hooni Kim from Danji. They selected the first, second, and third Place by evaluating creativity, balance, taste, and plating. Moreover, the People’s Choice was selected by voting from about 150 visitors. The winning team, “Double A” (Asian and American) presented “Sense of Spring.” It was a dish with “a spring flower on a branch, representing the bright, fresh start of the spring.” The sauce was very impressive. It was a fusion of East and West, combining gochujang (Korean spicy pepper sauce) and sesame-hollandaise (same ratio of butter and sesame oil as the fat component). Since this recipe won, it will be featured on the menu for one month at Take 31, a Korean restaurant in New York City. The second-place team, “East meets West”, presented their dish in the traditional plating method for bibimbap.
“The Hungry, Sailor’s Bibimbap” presented by Team Three Blind Rice photo courtesy of Sera Park On a big bowl of rice, there were zucchini, carrot, muthe plate great movememt. The difference from the origisanchae (seasoned Korean radish), muk (Korean grain/ nal bibimbap recipe was that the team gave more crunchy bean jelly), celery, ramps, and pork and all fanned out to textures with dry seaweed and rice cracker. cover the rice. Also, there was a half of a boiled egg placed Although the following two teams did not get a prize, in the center of bowl. The variety colors of components their ideas of bibimbap was amazing. Team “Oh, hey made the dish visually attractive and appealing. Hog!” presented “Korea South.” It had the traditional way The third-place team, “Sexy Guys,” presented “Sexy of presentation, similar to “East meets West.” There were Bibimbap.” Since bibimbap is originally a savory dish, they five different colors, from rice, egg, braised pork belly, approached the opposite flavor profile. It had numerous kimchi, pork rinds, pickled okra, mushroom, pickled carsweet components such as banana, pear, apple, and grape. rot, gochujang, and pickled mustard seeds. The other team With the fruity, sweet sauce, they used multi-grain rice “Turtle” presented “Honey Ginger Bibimbap” with fresh with bean paste and strong herbs inclusing dill and parscucumber rice. It had the most oriental flavor profile with ley. It had a unique complexity of flavors in one dish. honey, ginger, soy sauce, teriyaki sauce and sesame oil, and The winner of People’s Choice, “Three Blind Rice,” peanuts. presented “The Hungry, Sailor’s Bibimbap.” It had a new The bibimbap competition overall was a great experiway to assembling the bibimbap-stacking method. Layerence. It not only served as an epitome of cultural diversity ing seaweed, rice, rice cracker, mixed vegetable, fried egg, but it also seemed like a festival full of happiness and a another rice cracker, cucumber, and octopus legs was gave great variety of food.
Breaking Ground: Garden Education at the CIA
BY: Katie Fenton, BPS Applied Food Studies
Beginning at 7 am, the storeroom opens its doors for students of the CIA’s kitchens to hustle down and file through a list. As they check the list off, leaning against any surface that they can find, each ingredient requested is identified and accounted for in those black, plastic boxes. For years, this has been the earliest place that students get to see food. They never got to get their hands dirty with it outside of the kitchens. The Applied Food Studies degree has changed this. The Teaching Garden has sprouted from the hard work of the AFS students and faculty. In it contains a plant box for each of the Applied Food Studies classes (and a couple other BPS classes). Everything planted will be edible upon harvest, some of which will benefit classes of future semesters. The History and Cultures of Americas class will be able to see the three sisters’ planting method, designed by the Native Americans long ago. Dr. Deirdre Murphy, one of the CIA faculty members leading this movement says, “I think this garden is a classroom. It doesn’t matter that it’s outside, it’s a classroom.” It was all laid out for onlookers to see those first few weeks: a patch of grass grew into a place for culinary school students to grab a few shovels and help food to take its roots deeper in the CIA soil. The Bachelor’s students at the CIA have craved these hands-on experiences in their education to keep up the competition of other leading culinary schools. Kelsey Woodworth, an Applied Food Studies major says, “I think
Breaking Ground photo courtesy of Katie Fenton it’s [the new garden] something a lot of people have worked on a really long time. We have a lot of brilliant people here and I think it’s important – we really rely on this knowledge in our industry.” Meanwhile, the project in Applied Food Studies class is working off-campus to sprout change. Students have been working on their own individually designed projects in efforts to restore the Roosevelt Victory Garden down the street. Some students have chosen to research Roosevelt’s soil conservation methods, while others are
designing plans to restore the old apiary. Some are developing lesson plans to educate students on the importance of gardens to the Roosevelts and the overall community. Others are planning the AFS senior event before ground is broken at the end of the season. The event will consist of a picnic lunch known as “Hot Dogs on Hudson,” that will be held on the Roosevelts’ property. The lunch will not only provide hot dogs and various summertime foods, but will also inform local businesses and the community about the role of victory gardens in history, present day and future. “The project class is an opportunity to do something that is far from busy work. It’s a chance to actively improve the community. Building a garden at FDR’s house will help people, young and old, learn more about food in some way, shape, or form. I also really love that my project can be a springboard for me to expand and use in my future,” says Liam Kamp, who will graduate with a Bachelor’s in both Foodservice Management and Applied Food Studies in July. Regardless of what part the students play in the projects class, their ideas are free to be researched, developed, and implemented. “What I want,” says Dr. Costura, “is for people to feel that their work has meaning and it lasts after the semester.” There is something about taking your hands, digging them into the dirt, and realizing that you are the one planting the seeds that will sprout into a movement of change. For the AFS students, gardens are only the beginning. Interested in more of Katie’s writing? Visit accordingtofen.weebly.com
LA PAPILLOTE
8
“Gay” is Just Another Word for “Happy”
The Usual Stereotypes Associated with the LGBT Community
BY: Taha Khan, AOS Baking & Pastry
“Every time I give a reading, I hope the stories I tell, the dreams and fears I examine can achieve some universal truth that will get my audience past the particulars of my skin, my accent or my clothes” – Judith Ortiz Cofer In the lines above, Cofer, with great vehemence, expresses her need for the recognition of her individuality, of her existing as an individual, and not just a woman who is stereotyped on the basis of her ethnicity or attire. In her essay, “The Myth of the Latin Woman,” she light heartedly castigates the fact of Latin women being stereotyped in spite of them being an inextricable part of a highly pluralistic society. That society, which calls itself liberal and free, at times is governed by prejudices and judgments, which cause an individual or a group of individuals to be stereotyped on the basis of color, religion, ethnicity and various other factors. One such stereotype is associated with the members of the LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender) community, needless to say on the basis of “sexual orientation,” especially with gay men. It was a night in the month of March. I distinctly remember that night, as I was going to be an adult in a few hours from then. I was handcuffed and pushed into a narrow cell of a police station filled with the pungent smell of sweat and rat urine. It was not the first time I had committed it. The crime was not as petty as illegal gambling or theft or illegal drug abuse, which young adults around my age were more likely to commit. It was much graver. The crime was as vicious as resting my head on a man’s shoulder in a car, safely halted in an assigned halting spot. The man happened to be my boyfriend and coincidently, or rather unfortunately, I happened to belong to the same sex. My body was not as scared as much as my mind when I heard the police officer tell his colleague, “Look at those faggots sitting in that corner. Nothing but dirty insects that stain and tarnish the canvas of our civil society.” Well, maybe it was the way he spoke, or the bribe he accepted from a friend of mine who later came to release us whitened the canvas or made it pure, but the thought of the word faggot certainly did turn my eyes red, not out of anger but out of pain. Faggot is a common slang word used for homosexual men (in a derogatory way) today, but was actually used for old women in the late 16th century. Commonly associated with this word are the words “sissy” or “queen,” which stereotype gay men as being effeminate and loud. This stereotype consequentially implies that homosexual men
The True Cost of Freedom Continued continued from page 5... We have the right to speak our minds, as I am doing so here. We have the right to form clubs to meet to discuss relevant topics that we are passionate about, and we have the right to represent ourselves within the student government. These are important rights that I encourage everyone to take advantage of. Changes do not occur if you are not proactive. Upset about an injustice? Speak up and maybe there will be others that agree, and together we can make tomorrow better than today. This 4th of July, consider what you are really celebrating. Think twice about whether or not getting hammered, overeating, and blowing stuff up, is really the way to use your freedom. I am NOT telling you not to; it is your right to, if that is what you want. All I am pointing out is that you are playing into the system. The system that is laughing at you for celebrating your ‘freedoms’ while it quietly gets rich off of taking them away. And, that sounds like the least American way to celebrate our country’s birth.
are less masculine than their heterosexual counterparts. So they are less likely to participate in “manly activities” especially sports, or worse they may be accused of emasculating the male society in which they exist. On the contrary, in reality many male athletes, be it the rugby star Gareth Thomas, or the Olympic diver Gregory Louganis, or the NBA athlete Jason Collins, are indeed gay which may completely contradict the stereotype of gay men as being effeminate. Another common stereotype associated with gay men is the “flamboyant professional” or, reframed in a better way, the “profession of flamboyance.” Apparently, their professions do not go beyond the arena of the fashion industry or a beauty salon or some form of creative art. Movies and the media for many years have promoted these stereotypes whether it is a movie such as The Devil Wears Prada or “Glee,” the sitcom. On film they may be projected as true and intense, but in real life, this stereotype can be contradicted with the examples of powerful professions that gay people pursue. Whether it is Tim Cook, CEO of Apple, or Chris Hughes, co-founder of Facebook, or Peter Thiel, CEO of PayPal, or Ricky Martin or Matt Bomer. All are gay and yet are the prodigies of their field. It was a year ago. A group of friends were discussing relationships and a close friend of mine, who happened to be openly gay, was told, “Ah, you gay guys have it easy. You can sleep around with the whole city. The word ‘relationship’ does not exist in the gay world.” That friend of mine was shocked, but he gave it back in a humble yet condescending tone: “Relationships do not exist anywhere. They require a lot of hard work and only the strong and the hardworking can pursue them, and I have been in one for five years and still counting, not for five months like you guys.” Most religions stereotype gay men as “sinners” who are gripped with lust, while the apparently liberal society labels gay men/people as “promiscuous.” As a matter of fact, promiscuity does not exist in homosexual people as much as it does in heterosexual people as suggested by recently conducted scientific research. Such stereotyping sometimes leads to graver condemning accusations that homosexual people are the key cause of the wide spread of AIDS, whereas, in reality, Harvard Medical School reports that the majority of the cases examined (around 90%) are heterosexual people (based on world statistics). Promiscuity exists in all cultures, but a relationship epitomizes the essence and intension of a person in life. The word relationship is not a mere word, but it is “love” that embellishes that bond. “And true love- the most unconditional love – can be expe-
rienced by anyone- regardless of their sexuality.” In some parts of the world, like a few countries in Asia and the Middle East where “ignorance” is bliss and “intolerance” is a status quo, homosexual men are stereotyped as “eunuchs” or transgender people, which completely changes the perspective of their existence and their purpose of life, both for them and for those who perceive them. The gay community, in general, is stereotyped in various aspects throughout the world, from a spectrum that may be humorous and clichéd in western countries and to a more demeaning or humiliating spectrum in the Middle East and countries in Asia where being homosexual is as good as being a criminal. This is usually a threat and unequivocally a danger, not to civil society but to the intellectual existence of mankind and those people who are compelled to stay in the closet. In sixth grade, I remember the teacher reading out a poem titled “Daffodils” by William Wordsworth. She came across the lines, “The waves beside them danced but they, Out did the sparkling waves in glee, A poet could not but be gay,” to which a group of friends chuckled and said, “Oh, the poet is a homo.” I did not quite understand the meaning of “gay” or ‘homo.” I looked it up the dictionary and it meant “happy.” The other meaning was “homosexual,” which was of no relevance to me at that time as I was quite innocent. Little did I know that the “three letter word” could make someone opinionated about a person or judge them for who they are, especially parents, family, and friends. Even today, for me, the word “gay” means “happy.” The other word “homosexual,” which is a definitive term for a person’s sexual orientation, is a word that is indigenous to one’s personal life and should not be associated with capability, essence of character, profession, and certainly not with any derogatory or de-railing prerogative used for a person who is a citizen of this highly pluralistic society. At the Culinary Institute of America, I realized that the significance of an institution of education is not only academic or educational excellence, but also accepting that diversity and pluralism is indigenous to the system of education. The Alliance club on campus is an excellent space where one can share their experiences about coming out, and about any issues that concern a spectrum of thought that is open and liberating. After all, in the words of Matt Bomer, “Human beings are good. They each have a shadow. Every single one of us has redeeming qualities and every single one of us has qualities that people can hold against us. That’s what makes us human.”
July 2, 2015
Sunday
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Monday
5 No Classes
July 5, 2015-July 24, 2015 6
9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
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Events
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9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming Club 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
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9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
Tuesday
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9pm-French Club 8 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Club Con 9:15pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-The Word Poetry Club
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9pm-French Club 15 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-The Word Poetry Club 9:15pm-Public SGA Meeting
9:15pm-Partners in Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary 9:15pm-Chefs Against Child Hunger
9:15pm-Partners in Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary
9:15pm-Partners in 21 Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary
-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club- SRC, Group Fitness Room -Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge
Conrad N. Hilton Library Learning Library Commons: Monday-Thursday: 7:30am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 7:30am-7:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Video Center Hours: Campus Store Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm 10:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00amFriday: 8:30am-5:00pm 6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
Wednesday
4:30pm-CHOP’T 22 9pm-French Club 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-The Word Poetry Club
Thursday
9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
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23 9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
AOS Graduation 24
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Hours of Operation
Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
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-Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom -Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Gay Straight Alliance Club- Pick Lounge -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater
Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm
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Saturday
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9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
Club Meeting Locations
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends)
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Friday
The Egg Monday-Friday: 5:30am-11:00pm Saturday & Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
-CIA Paintball Coalition- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom -Culinarians Against Cancer- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Slow Food- Anheuser Busch Theater -Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room -Club Con- Marriot Pavillion-Lower Level
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Expanding Your Success through Meditation
(East)
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
BY: Faye Ransom, AOS Culinary
Meditation has been described as “continuous calm thought,” but is that really what meditation is and what does that mean anyway? And, what affect, if any, can meditation really have on your life, your food and/or your career as a chef or food professional? The new CIA Meditation Group wants you to have the space to go inside of yourself and answer these questions for yourself. Wait, but what is the CIA Meditation Group? The CIA Meditation Group, or CMG, is a new organization on CIA’s busy, bustling campus with a mission to facilitate a better life and kitchen experience through the tool of meditation. To that end, CMG will begin offering weekly meditation on Tuesdays beginning July 6, 2015 at 9:30 pm. Come and contribute your powerful energy to the group’s collective energy, while at the same time, giving yourself a tool for calming your thoughts and opening a space within yourself where creativity can breathe and grow. Group meditation amplifies your own personal energy, producing a highly prized laser-like focus that, in turn, results in numerous benefits from a mind, body and spirit perspective which experienced meditators and scientists have both confirmed.
Meditation has been proven to help with keeping you healthy, prevent multiple diseases, make you happier, improve your performance of physical and/or mental tasks and lessen emotional interference. So how does this help your life? How does this improve your kitchen experience? More focus equals a higher performance standard that you will set for yourself. A calm and clear mind will allow you to observe what you spend your time thinking about, and more importantly, to take personal responsibility for your thoughts about yourself and others. This clears a pathway for you to change any thought that is negatively impacting your life by producing physical, emotional, or mental imbalance. The more of your mind that is clear and available to do this, the more true success you will experience in all aspects of life. You can then move through both life and tasks with confidence instead of spending time repeating poor results that do not allow life to work as it is designed to do. Crucial to this process are the principles of self-governance and self-discipline. What behaviors and choices do you make when you think no one is watching? Do you take someone else’s tools or towels from the kitchen? Do
you take someone else’s food from a communal refrigerator? Do you not clean up behind yourself without a chef telling you to do so? Do you spend my time projecting your thoughts onto others instead of understanding that thought is actually about something inside you? Do you attempt to transfer your thoughts onto another in an attempt to rid yourself of them? Do you choose to exercise? Take walks? To be aware of the beauty that surrounds you? These behaviors matter to the success of your life, and meditation is a way to understand that. All you have to do is to get started or increase your level of practice if you’ve already started. CMG is here to help you do just that. CMG Tuesday night weekly meditations will consist of a 20-minute meditation followed by a 10-minute optional question and answer discussion period. Some of our summertime sessions will be held outdoors so always bring something to sit on. We will meet at the front desk of the Recreation Center at 9:25pm each Tuesday night to begin our time together. If you have any questions or comments, please email us at meditation@cia.culinary.edu. If this is for you, we will be delighted to see you there. All are welcome.
10
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of July 2, 2015 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Doris Drucilla Davis, Jessica Reid, Brittany Layne, Young Choi Back Row: Jake Bazzy, Travon Boykins, David Kerwin, Ivan Tapia
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Naomi Martinez, Henry Wong, Danicia Berroa, Samantha Ortiz Back Row: Annika Somogy, Brian Musson, Evan Shambarger, Andrew Orton
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Daniel Mucci, Craven D’Souza, Joseph Andrade, Nicholas Musto, Gianpaolo Fiorino, Gabrielle Thomas, Sarah Parejo Back Row: Andrew Gusty, Clark Hillman, Scott Murry Jr, Johann Hanaman, Amit Hochstein, Nathalia Ordonez, Stephanie Capone
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Minkyung Kim, Denis Moore, Aaron Giebitz, Michael D’Orsogna Back Row: Justin Craparo, Michael Kranich, Kyungjun Bae, Kwonpyo Jeon
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Jacquelyn Clark, Alan Topalovic, Kayla Vaughan, Kate Yanders, Michelle Fried, Carmen Delgado, Emma Berg, Emily Dittmar Back Row: Samantha Portela, Hao Kai Liao, Jennifer Morin, Julia Berger, Grace Driver, Rodrigo D. Parra, Taylor Ziegler, Luan Paim, Leah Tellez, Christian F. Sanchez
July 2, 2015
11
AOS Graduation Speaker: Nate Appleman ‘99
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
Nate Appleman is the culinary manager at Chipotle Mexican Grill and its ShopHouse Southeast Asian Kitchen concept. His soulful cooking has garnered national praise. In 2009, he received the Rising Star Chef award from the James Beard Foundation and Best New Chef accolades from Food & Wine magazine, as well as two prestigious book awards from the International Association of Culinary Professionals: Book of the Year and First Book/The Julia Child Award for his cookbook A16 Food + Wine. During Chef Appleman’s tenure as executive chef and co-owner of A16, the restaurant was awarded three-and-ahalf stars for food quality by the San Francisco Chronicle, after which he went on to open the equally well-received SPQR. In 2010, he moved to New York City to open Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria. At Pulino’s, Chef Appleman continued to create distinctive dishes, inspired as always by local produce, seasonal items, and sustainable ranching, farming, and fishing. His cooking philosophy was recognized by Chipotle founder Steve Ells ’90, who hired Chef Appleman to join the culinary team at Chipotle. This latest chapter in Chef Appleman’s career allows him to continue his belief in making food with great quality ingredients, prepared using classic cooking methods—this time with a much wider reach.
Egg Word Search
A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Chef Appleman trained in Italy in traditional methods of salumi production and butchery and is one of the few American pizzaiolos certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association. He is a Food Network regular, with appearances as a challenger on Iron Chef America, The Next Iron Chef seasons 2 and 5, and Chopped All-Stars, among others. During his 2011 Chopped All-Stars appearance, he outcompeted some of the network’s most notable culinary talent, ultimately winning the title of Chopped All-Stars Champion and donating $50,000 to the Kawasaki Disease Foundation. In addition to his culinary accomplishments, Nate Appleman is an active philanthropist. As a board member of the Kawasaki Disease Foundation, he works tirelessly to bring awareness to the efforts of the organization. Chef Appleman is also a contributing advisor for Runner’s World magazine.
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Last Block’s Puzzle Solution
Baked Benedict Boiled Bruleeskillet Burrito Carbonara
Crepes Deviled French Fried Locomoco Nog
Omelet Overeasy Pickled Poached Provencal Quiche
Rancheros Salad Sandwich Scrambled Shirred Shouka
Soft Souffle Spanish Stratas Sunnyside Tuscan
The solution will be in the next issue.
12
LA PAPILLOTE
In The Industry
BrainFood: CIA Student Creates Original YouTube Channel
BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary
For most of us at CIA, we have enough on our plates with classes, on-campus organizations, school organized events, and social outings. When we have time to ourselves, we tend to do whatever we can to actually relax. For one student, Matthew F. Johnson, who graduated with his AOS degree in April, down time was an excuse to create something more. Two years ago, Matt started making food videos on YouTube. It has given him a way to connect to others through food, allowed him to make the most out of his time at CIA and in this industry. Matt’s channel, BrainFood, has gotten attention from Google and from the Streamy Awards. Matt, someone I am fortunate enough to call a dear friend, is currently spending his time between AOS and BPS working as a sous chef at 8 Dyer Hotel and as a server at Tin Pan Alley in Provincetown, MA. In between his busy schedule, I was able to get Matt to answer some questions for me about his videos, his YouTube channel, and his future in the culinary industry. What made you start making videos? To be honest, when I was younger, I always wanted to have a food show where I got to cook what I was curious about, teach others about food, be entertaining, and talk about what was important to me. But, instead of waiting for someone to ask me to do one, I decided to just do it myself. Over the last six years, I’ve learned a lot about filming, public speaking, and editing from different projects I worked on back in high school. It’s funny how life sort of creates the perfect experiences that make up who you will become. I started BrainFood (yes, one word) because I had some free time while on externship, so I made the decision to start the channel, STICK WITH IT, and make videos on my one-day off each week. Looking back, my first videos sucked... But, that’s why YouTube is beautiful. It’s not perfectly polished and fake like TV. It’s real people making content they care about. Some of the early videos I now laugh at, but doing them really helped me create my own voice and style for the channel. Since then, I’ve learned what does and doesn’t work, what I like making, and what people enjoy watching. I’ve learned how to essentially become my own small business owner by being the chef, performer, writer, editor, cameraman, publicist, and director of my own videos. What’s your view on how the Internet is changing the food scene?
photo courtesy of YouTube The Internet dissolves a lot of the complicated mystery behind food for the average cook and it allows food to be appreciated in more forms and by more people than ever before. Previously, only chefs cared about food, but now we have more food in the public eye…so it’s everywhere. And that is beneficial for us chefs. We need to accept the changes to our industry and stay on top! It’s also exciting because we young chefs have more opportunities for business and creativity than chefs a few years ago would have had. Often times, traditional restaurant chefs look down upon food writers, food photographers, celebrity chefs, foodbloggers, or Food YouTubers like me. But, that’s a mistake and just hurting our own industry. We look like grumpy children fighting over who is the most important. It shouldn’t matter what specific niche of the industry we are a part of. In this new Internet driven world, it’s more proactive to praise the differences each of us has and not ridicule them. That way we all bring new talents and delicious food to the table. How do you come up with concepts for your channel? I always start off by thinking of an idea that I would find interesting to watch. Because if I don’t like my own content, why would anyone else? I enjoy watching chefs cook and I like learning from how they explain the techniques in their demos. So, I form my videos in a similar way. I love comedy and humor, so I try and add a little of that into my videos. I enjoy understanding how people I admire became who they are through getting to know them, so I always try and really be myself on camera, to show who I am as a person and relate with the viewer by being authentic. I also love all the science behind food, so I try to put research and facts in as much as I can. I tend to make cooking videos with food I have in the house, certain dishes I’ve been dying to make, or I make videos based on what food people are searching to learn more about online.
Have any of your chefs supported what you are doing? Have they given you any advice? Chef Swartz, my Fundies chef, is subscribed to my channel and I like talking about it with him. But BrainFood is still relatively new in my life, so I haven’t talked about it to many of the chefs at CIA yet. However, executive chef Shane Ryan from my externship, Matt’s in the Market, supported my decision to start BrainFood while working for him. My current executive chef, Brandon Quesnell ‘00, at 8 Dyer Hotel here in Provincetown enjoys watching my videos, and it actually helped me land the job as his sous chef. He’s actually in one of the videos! When I return to CIA for my bachelor’s degree in September, I hope to now discuss the channel with the professors and chefs at CIA so I can seek advice from them on how to move forward. But, frankly, when it comes to forging a strong path to attain a successful career as a professional YouTube chef, I think I’m on my own. It’s never really been done before, so I’m just learning as I stumble along. What do you want for the future of your channel and your future after graduating? I hope to build BrainFood into one of the more noticeable food channels on YouTube. Right now, the channel has almost 3,000 subscribers and has been entered for nomination for a Streamy award in the category of food. But there’s so much more room to grow. I have a lot planned for videos for the rest of my time at CIA, including awesome cooking videos, culinary video essays, videos with fellow classmates, and collaborating with other content creators on YouTube. My goal with my career is to simply create my own, one that’s never been done before. And that’s what’s great about YouTube; I’m creating a brand which allows me to have the freedom to be flexible. I’m still figuring out what that is exactly, but I know I want to own my own company. Under that company, I hope to open multiple restaurants that pioneer new ideas, produce entertaining and informative food shows, write interesting cookbooks, and give back to the community by bringing awareness to issues in both the food industry and the LGBTQ/Queer community. I’m excited to see how the food industry develops within the next decade. For me, as long as I get to have the freedom to experiment with what lies ahead, I’m happy. To visit Matt’s channel on YouTube, visit www.youtube. com/c/brainfoodmfj
Photography Club Corner BY: Melissa McQuoid, AOS Culinary This was a photo that I used to document the anniversary banquet in my restaurant class of my AOS degree in Bocuse. It was the anniversary of the restaurant and the menu planned highlighted the dishes that had started the restaurant not too long ago. The best part of banquets from a photographer’s perspective is the perfect uniformity and styling that goes into each dish. The vast display of the well thought out plating is not only aesthetically appealing but also shows the true talent of the chef. Photo courtesy of Melissa McQuoid
Voice Your Opinions… Influence Change!
The “Student Assessment of CIA Services” survey reopened June 24. This is your chance to effect real change on campus—tell us all about your experiences! An invitation to participate will be sent to your CIA e-mail. Please check your junk folder for an e-mail from SurveyGizmo in case it gets filtered. If you took the February survey, thank you! You won’t receive the e-mail for this one. Questions? Office of Assessment & Institutional Research oair@culinary.edu @CIA_OAIR on Twitter