Volume 37, No. 05
April 14, 2016
La
Papillote Senator Sanders in Poughkeepsie
The Cost of Success BY: Tristan Heath, AOS Culinary
We all have dreams, goals, and ambitions. Some are vague while others are highly specific. Some are complex while others are simple. The constant however is that all dreams stand behind obstacles and all dreams have a cost of maintenance. It is important to weigh and understand these costs before committing to a life path. For many of us here on campus, our sights are set very high. We want to work for the big names, the names that have reputations behind them and are synonymous with having made an impact on the culinary world. I myself would say my desires are similar. And such ambitions are logical and predictable. Many of us came to this school because it is boasted as being the best in the world, so naturally it follows that we are shooting for the gastronomical stars. But what does it take to get there, let alone stay there? We all seem to know and accept that it is difficult. Finding success on any level in such an arena is to grab a marble in a nest of barbed wire at the top of a greased flag pole while everyone is standing there watching
you struggle. It’s rough. And it is one thing to say, “I know the road will be difficult,” and another to sit down and soberly assess all the various potential costs. But costing, as we know, is essential in this industry. So I suggest doing an assessment of the physical, emotional, and financial demands as a prerequisite to even pursuing a stage. As far as physical demands, they are fairly straight forward and many of them are ubiquitous across the industry, not just in the Michelin Star spots. You can expect to be work long hours, all of which will be spent on your feet working with your hands. The difference between the physical demands of the upper tier kitchens and the less prestigious places will be that you are likely to have more schedule flexibility in the latter, and such flexibility can mean a slightly higher quality of life. In either arena working 6 days a week is fairly common and you can expect to be exhausted on your day off. Physical demands might not seem as concerning when you are very young, but they become more noticeable over time. A good suggestion is to stretch daily, have a high quality pair of shoes, and make an effort to get out of your typical environment on days off, even if you
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“Campus”
“Feature”
for over two hours and amidst thousands of people, young and old, white and black, straight and gay, and we all were one. It was something special. From chants of ‘world peace’, to overhearing and engaging in optimistic political banter about the future of our great country, it was something special. We listened to banjos and
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Campus Update, Cost of Success
folk music and passed the time by joking about how we didn’t have class on this glorious Tuesday afternoon. And eventually, we made our way into McCann Gymnasium at Marist College. After what seemed like hours, it was, finally the main event; Senator Bernie Sanders took the stage.
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Senator Bernie Sanders speaks at Marist College, April 12, 2016. photo courtesy: www.poughkeepsiejournal.com
Cover Crops & Sustainability
To the average American a cover crop is nonexistent in their vocabulary other than a basic understanding of some type of vegetation. Learning about farming and how our food is produced in American through the lenses of industrial agriculture compared to organic agriculture helped me to understand which foods are better for your body and overall health. Cover crops play an important role in soil nutrient density. They are crops that replenish nutrients in the used soil from another crop. The main question is, is should we be eating these “cover crops” or would it be best to resume
with our dirtied American palate of hamburgers and French fries? Dan Barber, Chef and Owner of the NY based restaurant Blue Hill and Stone Barns, released a video not too long ago about cover crops. A side not about Dan Barber is that he is the chef and owner of Blue Hill and Stone Barned which is literally a farm-totable restaurant located near Tarry Town, New York. The restaurant is the epicenter to an entire surrounding farm of produce and animals that are all used in the restaurant. One of the courses served at Blue Hill consist entirely of bread.
Papillote
En
Molecular Gastronomy
It wasn’t just any other windy day in the Hudson Valley on Tuesday April 12th. No it was something much more special. We patiently and more important, peacefully, stood in line
BY: Nick Altero, BPS Managment
The open air square at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico, NY. photo courtesy: www.bowenandco.com
BY: Kevin Markey, Editor-in-Chief
CENTER SPREAD
“Feature”
Food Trucks, Sex Culture
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Not just any bread though, this bread is made from an ancient grain called Emmer Wheat. One might look at this in awe with their head tilted sideways; an entire course of just bread? Yes! The reason Dan Barber does this is because of the intense flavor of the bread and of this ancient wheat. The average American is use to the typical refined and bleached wheats stripped of their germ that we buy at the grocery store which are grown by industrial farms for yield rather than flavor. In California, I was able to taste the difference in organic grown produce. The flavors where in-
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“Entertainment”
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BACK PAGE
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“Industry”
Book Review
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
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April 14, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Trisan Heath Daniel Salisbury Nick Altero Patty Dennison Ray Delcucci Joseph Haffly Jeff Levine Shelly Loveland
From the Editor’s Desk
Leslie Jennings Hanna Krilov Matt Ivins John Doe Alexis Brown Kevin Markey
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
April 14, 2016
Fellow Students,
If you’re an avid reader of my letters, then you are aware of my tendency to be a bit existential at times. Partly this is due to writing being one of my few emotional expressions, but mostly it is because I often write late the night before we go to print. For some reason I find the pressure to put words on paper, leads to better writing. Whether this is true, or just an excuse I’ve given myself to procrastinate, I believe it works. Most days I spend in the office researching article topics and gathering writers for the next issue, so I often eat at my desk as well. But I told myself I would not work while I eat, so instead I watch a TED talk. In 15 minutes, give or take five, I am able to free my mind from work, refuel my body with nutrients and consume knowledge from experts in their respective field (talk about multi-tasking). Then I go back to work, more motivated then before to do something great and to make a difference. In the most recent TED talk I watched; “The Surprising Habits of Original Thinkers” Adam Grant explains exactly how some of the most successful people are procrastinators. Original thinkers of the past such as; Plato, Galileo, Newton, or Darwin were criticized and shamed by their peers. More modern day thinkers like Steve Jobs and Bill Gates, were laughed at and ridiculed before they were recognized as great. Jobs has a quote out that starts, “Here’s to the crazy ones…” while a little long it is the last sentence that gets me every time, “…because the ones who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones who do.” Slainte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
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April 14, 2016
Molecular Gastronomy Trending
BY: Joseph Haffly, AOS Culinary
The Institute of Food Technologists states on their website; “Food science draws from many disciplines such as biology, chemical engineering, and biochemistry in an attempt to better understand food processes and ultimately improve food products for the general public. As the stewards of the field, food scientists study the physical, microbiological, and chemical makeup of food.” Within food science lie the sub discipline of; Molecular Gastronomy. Which is common practice in gourmet restaurants such as elBulli, Alinea, and The Fat Duck. Food Science not only studies new ingredients and their effects in cooking, but also the study of basic ingredients as to why and how they are used. Food Science has fundamental and practical uses as well as some ex-
understand. Maillard Reaction, along with emulsions, are taught at a fundamental level and they are essential knowledge for every chef. Most chefs know the basics while others explore and develop new methods inspired by the essential techniques and methods. Food Science is both simple and complex. It can be something simple like salting the water you cook your pasta in so that they absorb the salt and have a deeper flavor profile. One of the most common uses of Food Science is an emulsion. The process of an emulsion is to allow hydrophobic and hydrophilic liquids to come together and, with the proper ingredients, hold for some time after the initial suspension. Making a vinaigrette is one the earlier uses of science with food. A current trend in Molecular Gastrono-
Oakmoss, served with jelly of quail,marron cream, caviar sorbet, and truffle toast, at The Fat Duck. photo courtesy: www.junkee.com
citing and exotic uses. One of the first basics of Food Science is called Maillard Reaction. Author of Modernist Cuisine, Nathan Myhrvold, speaks on Maillard Reaction: “One of the most important flavor-producing reactions in cooking is the Maillard reaction. … …The Maillard reaction creates brown pigments in cooked meat in a very specific way: by rearranging amino acids and certain simple sugars, which then arrange themselves in rings and collections of rings that reflect light in such a way as to give the meat a brown color.” This process adds flavor, color, aroma, and texture to any dish. This coloring is desirable in foods such as steaks, chops, and breads. There are foods, however, that this coloring is not always desirable. Omelettes, most custards, some seafood, and white sauces such as Veloute or Bechamel are all examples of food products in which Maillard Reaction is not desirable. One form of Maillard Reaction is produced with the application of heat to the simple sugars in proteins it is essentially the process of caramelizing the sugars in proteins. Maillard Reaction is one of the most important aspects in Food Science to
my called spherification relies on the hydrophobic and hydrophilic make up of ingredients similar to an emulsion. Unlike in vinaigrette, where we emulsify these ingredients so they hold together, we use the opposite effects to form small pearls of a liquid. The method of cold oil spherification is often used to form these pearls. In this method the hydrophobic liquid is heated with a thickening agent, often Agar Agar, and then it is slowly added to a container of very cold oil to form small droplets. Emulsions are used in almost every kitchen but the use of more complex methods tends to be practiced in a different kind of kitchen. Molecular Gastronomy is considered by some to be an art form while others consider it a purely scientific practice. Chefs such as Ferran Adria, Grant Chatz, and Heston Blumenthal have brought these differences of opinion together with their work. They have put Molecular Gastronomy on the front page of magazines and trade journals across the world. Though these chefs often dispute the name and refer to their individual style under a different title it all bears some similarity to the long time practice and study of Molecular
Gastronomy. Molecular Gastronomy comes down to the desire to better understand food and the ingredients available. Put into practice it can be used for purposes such as finding the best way to stabilize a foam, spherification of liquids, or creating an edible helium balloon, as Grant Achatz and his staff at Alinea have done. One of the most influential restaurants in innovative cuisine was elBulli owned by chef Ferran Adria the restaurant was closed in 2011 and reopened as a creativity center in 2014. Ferran Adria has been regarded by many as the best chef in the world, pushing the limits and working with food in ways that no one has ever thought of. The Harvard Business School published a book titled “elBulli: The Taste of Innovation” in which it says the following in regards to chef Adria: “Adria constantly refined his philosophy, always trying to move further and further from his earlier desire ‘to copy.’ He wanted his dishes to provoke, to make people think and feel when eating” (Norton 5). Chef Adria has lead the way for many years, inspiring many chefs and restaurants since the elBulli began to change the way food was prepared and served. Ferran Adria has recently released a seven volume set of cookbooks from elBulli from 2005 through 2011. Adria’s time and work at elBulli paved the way for the use of science in kitchens such as Alinea and The Fat Duck. Grant Achatz is Chicago’s most famous chef, one of the most influential chef’s in the United States, and a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Achatz owns three restaurants in Chicago; Alinea, Next, and Aviary. Alinea’s menu is developed on a seasonal basis with dishes and ingredients based on seasonality and the inspirations of Achatz and his team. Next, Achatz’s second restaurant is a themed and ticketed restaurant. The unique theme of Next is that it changes every few months to a different cuisine, season, or time period. The Aviary is a gourmet cocktail bar and restaurant also located in Chicago and managed by the Alinea group, the company founded by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas. Achatz will be featured on the Netflix documentary series “Chef’s Table” in the second season of the documentary. One of the most intriguing things about Achatz is that for some time he had no sense of taste. During the development of menus he had to rely on and trust his sous chefs to find the correct balance of flavors in his dishes. Achatz interviewed with NPR books and spoke on losing and regaining his sense of taste: ‘“I started from zero, and the first thing back was sweet,” he says. “So my palate developed just as a newborn — but I was 32 years old. So I could
Campus understand how flavors were coming back and how they synergized together. ... It was very educational for me. I don’t recommend it, but I think it made me a better chef because now I really understand how flavor works.”’ Achatz has had an incredible experience at such a late point in his career that few, if any, chefs of his caliber have ever had. Achatz has experienced flavor in a way that most have never done. Having developed preferred tastes and
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memories associated with them and then to have that all taken away is a truly unique experience. This reincarnation of flavor has helped Achatz take a new and exciting approach to food. Heston Blumenthal is Britain’s most exciting and also owner of The Fat Duck, one of four restaurants in the Great Britain to have three Michelin stars. Blumenthal is one of the most influential chefs in today’s industry, cur-
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The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111
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LA PAPILLOTE
Feature
Campus Update
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
CIA HOSTS WORLD PREMIERE OF SYMPHONY The Northern Dutchess Symphony Orchestra highlighted its 10th anniversary season with the world premiere of an original symphonic work at the Marriott Pavilion on the New York campus on April 2. Walkway Over the Hudson was commissioned by NDSO and written by Ben Kutner, a 24-year-old New York-based composer. The orchestra performed the complete work, along with Ferde Grofé’s Grand Canyon Suite—in recognition of the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service. Both works were accompanied by images of the bridge and canyon projected on a screen behind the orchestra. Mr. Kutner describes Walkway Over the Hudson as a threemovement symphony in which each movement corresponds loosely with a chapter in the bridge’s history: a vital rail link, a fire-damaged structure lying in disuse, and the grand footbridge that exists today. FRENCH CLUB HELPS TRANSCRIBE MENUS The French Club student organization has been spending time recently in the New York campus’s library archives. They have been examining French menus from around the world and helping transcribe them for the digital menu collection. Club member Natasha White, a junior in the Applied Food Studies major, was inspired by a class visit to the archives and got the French Club involved. “We loved seeing all the different international menus and how French cuisine and culture varied from country to country,” White said. Working with the historical menus not only raised student awareness of global French culture and language, but also
helped build the CIA’s online menu collection, which now numbers more than 2,600 items. RECENT GRAD EARNS GRANT TO STUDY IN EUROPE Marit Rubenstein ’15 (Bachelors), currently a managerin-training in the baking and pastry arts department on the Hyde Park campus, has been accepted into the CongressBundestag Youth Exchange (CBYX) program for young professionals. This program selects 75 American young professionals from all fields and sends them to Germany for a year of professional and cultural exchange. At the same time, 75 young professionals from Germany come to the United States. Rubenstein heads to Europe in July. Over the years, several CIA graduates have been chosen to participate in the CBYX program—another example of the many experiential opportunities beyond the classroom that are open to CIA students and alumni. ALUMNUS EARNS A SILVER PLATE The International Foodservice Manufacturers Association (IFMA) has presented a 2016 Silver Plate Award to Rafi Taherian ’95, associate vice president of Yale Hospitality at Yale University in New Haven, CT. Taherian earned the honor in the “Colleges & Universities” category. Silver Plate Awards are presented annually by IFMA in recognition of outstanding and innovative contributions by leaders in the foodservice and hospitality industry in nine segments of operations. The nine honorees are finalists for IFMA’s Gold Plate Award to be announced during the National Restaurant Association show in Chicago on May 21.
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comparable to any vegetable I’ve ever tasted from a regular grocery store. Dan Barber has a specific farm in which he knows the farmer who grows his Emmer Wheat. In the video Dan talks about how great his relationship is with the farmer and how he actually goes to the farm to see how everything works. But there is one thing that Dan Barber is guilty of with his farm-to-table restaurant which is that he is selfish in only using the Emmer wheat this farmer grows for him. Dan Barber argues in his video that, “great cuisines of the world evolved around what the land could give, not the other way
grow and take over the rest of the crops. There is a food preparation called Succotash which is composed of beans, corn and a type of squash. What is even more convenient is that combing corn and beans creates a complex protein which is very good and very healthy for our bodies. May the triad sisters live on. When Dan Barber visited his wheat farmer he heard nothing about the wheat for three days. He wanted to basically live on the farm for those three days to gain full understanding of Claus’ wheat. The wheat wasn’t what was important but instead, the process of soil
The vegetable greenhouse, Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
around.” We tend to “cherry pick” what we want from whatever farms are out there leaving them with all of their other crops like left behind children at an orphanage (Dan Barber). Let’s examine the first question of what is a cover crop? Going back to when the Native Americans ruled the Americas before foreign corruption of the land took place. There is a term I learned in culinary school called the “triad sisters”. The triad sisters are composed of three simple crops; corn, beans and squash. The Native Americans would grow these three crops together. The corn would grow as tall as it could to reach the sun’s rays. The beans on the other hand would grow up these tall corn stalks also trying to gain sunlight and the squash would grow at the base of the corn. Corn has the tendency to suck up a lot of nutrients out of soil. Beans have this fantastic trait about them where they actually do the opposite and replenish the soil with nitrogen. The squash plays a big role too. The squash makes sure sunlight doesn’t reach the ground preventing weeds to
crops could be used in generating revenue. But more importantly, Dan Barber is trying to generate awareness and celebrate local food culture. But that’s not as easy as it sounds. Farm- to- table produce is supposed to be good for us and for the planet. Farm to table is supposed to work its way into the agriculture community through political and economic forces on how he decide to grow our food. But the FTT movement has fallen short of a new culinary revolution. In the last 5 years or so over 100,000 farms mostly midsized, have been lost. Only 1.1 percent of farms today account for 45 percent of
photo courtesy: www.thisguysfoodblog.com
building which was the key for this amazingly flavored wheat. Claus (wheat farmer) first applies spelt to the soil. Spelt is a soil builder, has deep roots, and after it’s grown its mowed down and is reintroduced back into the soil for a carbon boost. After applying spelt he applies clover for nitrogen. He then will plant for corn which he uses for bag feed generating about 80% of his profits. Claus does this because it drives his farm; it generates money because of the market’s needs. After corn he then plants any type of mustard cover crop to again restore nutrients, then legumes (soy beans, kidney beans), rye to build soil structure along with being a weed suppressor and good source carbon. It isn’t until after all this does he then plant Dan Barbers wheat. But if all Dan Barber wants is the wheat then what happens to the rest of those ancient, flavor filled crops? The point Dan is trying to make and I agree with him is that we should be able to utilize all of these crops in our diet and in staying true to farm-totable practice. These undesired
farm revenue (Barber NYT). These numbers are jaw dropping. Industrial agriculture has taken the growing game by the horns. How is the healthy food producing farms being overtaken by the industrial farms that grow seemingly “fake” produce? As a young culinarian, I can do only one thing to help preserve this ancient practice called farm to table and that is by teaching others. When I go home to my family I try to explain these problems with the food produced in America but no one seems to listen. When an organic farm can produce a bell pepper with a 300% increase in vital nutrients that we need to live then why would we settle for anything less? Sure it may cost A LITTLE more than what is in the grocery store but in the end we are doing our bodies a favor. So here’s to all the chefs like Dan Barber who use everything that their farmers grow. Here’s to all the families who shop for groceries at farmers markets instead of mainstream grocery stores. And here’s to the people who eat cover crops!
April 14, 2016
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just want to sit on the couch. A sues, you can only accept that just to keep your head above change of scenery is important it comes with the territory and water, and even then you might for keeping life fresh. try and keep tabs on your heart still have to ask for help. HopeEmotional demands vary great- as to prevent yourself from fully if you are diligent enough, ly from person to person but becoming too isolated or de- in time you will stick around are important considerations to tached. long enough to get a raise or take. It is better to understand Financial demands are very move up in the ranks. If you the aspects of normal life that real and can limit your flexibil- are aiming for Michelin stars, you will be sacrificing in the ity as well as open a gateway you will likely be living in a name of culinary greatness be- to intense frustration. Money bigger city. If you’re in NYC, fore you are in too deep. Take does not buy happiness but hopefully you can still find interpersonal relationships for financial burden is highly as- a neighborhood that isn’t yet example. I’m not going to say sociated with stress which can gentrified. Who knows where it is outright impossible to have greatly limit your enjoyment of the prep chefs and line cooks a strong relationship with another human when chasing these dreams, but it is certainly very challenging. Part of the conflict comes simply from the logistical demand: the long hours, the limited time off. The other part of it comes from the fact that when you are in these extremely competitive kitchens, you have to give your whole self to your work every day just to keep up. You become afraid of anything that might distract you from your vision, whether that be hobbies or significant others. The irony is that after enduring the daily berating and judgment of a competitive kitchen atmosphere, having a person in your life who accepts you and sees you not only as an employee would likely be emotionally benefi- Roth Hall with dedicated students and falcuty in foreground. cial. However more often times you tend to see cooks isolating themselves from others. I used life. There is the sad paradox live in Yountville? Wherever significant others as an exam- that the more expensive the you end up, public transportaple but the same issues apply restaurant, the less the cooks tion and biking will be a must. to forming and maintaining are getting paid. We under- If you are under 26, stick with strong friendships in the indus- stand that life in this industry your parent’s health insurance try. Outside of the people you is not a get-rich-quick game. as long as you can. see at work, it is hard to have People who work in fine-din- If my assessment comes across friendships with people with ing survive on family meals, as pessimistic, you are not mis9-5 schedules. And given the cheap neighborhoods and over- interpreting me. In contempoturnover rate in kitchens, there time hours. If you plan to pur- rary times, it can feel like the is no guarantee the friends you sue a life in these kitchens, be cost for working in these most make on the line will stick prepared to be competent with celebrated kitchens of the finearound for long either. There is basic financing and budgeting. dining world outweighs the reno real strategy to fix these is- It will take a lot of discipline ward. I am now 25. I’m not old,
ON CAMPUS
Feature but I’m at an age where I have to make decisions carefully because I already have spent longer than I’d like finally committing to a life in food. All these demands I’ve listed scare me to death. I have no interest in getting married any time soon but the thought of not being able to share time with a special person if they come along is a lonely thought. I also have no desire to be “rich”, but it would be nice to be finan-
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even call myself a true adult by financial standards? My situation is not unique. My situation and the situation of others like me are the reason why we keep seeing articles about how there is a shortage of labor, why some people warn of catastrophe for the industry looming on the horizon. There is not a lack of will to work, but a lack of contestants who can feasibly live off the standard wages. From where we stand now, the only culinary graduates who can realistically enter these kitchens are the ones who get out of school debt free, and that is a small percentage. It makes me wonder how we have gotten to this place. I recall reading Jacque Pepin’s memoir, how life in the finest restaurants of Paris was demanding but he still had two days off and the chance to enjoy the culture of the city. I think about my mom and how she made a living as a professional musician despite financial odds. I want people in fine dining to have the same opportunity for success as the result of hard work, but the situation seems bleaker these days. If nothing else, it is good that the conversation has emerged and industry leaders are acphoto courtesy: www.ciachef.edu knowledging that there are issues. I am no expert but I hope cially independent not long af- to contribute my voice to the ter graduation. It would be nice discussion. I also hope that my to tell my mom I can pay my peers and the leaders of this own phone bill. I love my 91 school will help contribute to a Accord but I might want a car dialogue that will shape a more with airbags one day. But how positive future for cooks, not are any of these plans feasible only ones in the highly-rated if I’m already 20K in the red restaurants but in all avenues from my psychology degree of the food world. The hardand about to be another 20 in working people who help prothe hole when I graduate here duce elevated embodiments of in July? Is it even financially nourishment ought not to fear responsible to try working in having their own most basic such restaurants when I can’t necessities met.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Feature
Food Truck Fantasy BY: Patty Dennison, AOS Culinary
How is it that Food Trucks suddenly became so popular? They abruptly morphed from rusty hotdog stands and creepy ice cream trucks to rolling pizzerias that even have wood burning ovens in the back of the truck. trucks are becoming the center of popularity in the restaurant industry next to kale and molecular gastronomy. We now have large food truck festivals and even TV shows like “The Great Food Truck Race” Johnson and Wales’ own, dedicated to these mobile eateries. So why is it that food trucks finally received an invitation to the adult table, after being kept in the shadows for so long? The first food trucks came into existence before cars were even
tackling head on, and some with even more innovative approaches than what we have seen. Student Adam Belward is the Executive Chef of Iron and Grain, a food truck that is based out of Connecticut. With his “mobile gastropub,” he has 6 beer taps on the truck as well as a wood-burning grill, setting him apart from many food trucks. The cuisine encapsulates upscale bar food, serving; sliders topped with quail eggs and charred brussels sprouts with buffalo seasoning. The innovative truck is built in a classic Chevy Viking, which is strongly demonstrated in the style of their truck. Their cuisine embraces the evergrowing farm to table food trend, which has yet to break through the food truck scene. Belward is hoping with their approachable truck and local food that they are going to continue this movement is the food truck craze.
The six beer tap system on the Iron and Grain food truck.
an option following the Civil War. The original food trucks rooted from two different vessels: chuck wagons and push carts. The chuck wagons originated in the wild west, to feed the cowboys that were on the road, by giving them simple and convenient meals while they were traveling. In more urban areas like New York City, pushcarts quickly became popular. These were carts that sold premade items like sandwiches and meat pies. These carts slowly started to morph and escalate over time. The simple carts were soon horse drawn, and were functional as a kitchen as well and not just a mere serving stand. They soon became very popular lunch carts in major metropolitan areas, and in the mid 1900’s the notorious ice-cream truck first opened. It is understandable how the trucks became more functional as restaurants because it helped the trucks meet the needs for the customers easier, and as soon as they met the needs of the customers the owners started to go above and beyond the customers’ needs and expectations. This is something that CIA students, professors and alumni are
Chef Michael Pardus, Cuisines of Asia teacher, is also the owner of a food truck; Lucky Noodles. While his food truck design is more traditional than that of Belward’s he does embrace the diversity of the food truck movement. Chef Pardus’ menu is what sets him apart from the more mainstream food trucks. His Lucky Noodles food truck focuses on the
Kitchen Sex Culture wide variety of flavors in Asian cuisine. His menu features more exotic dishes including noodle bowls, bahn mi, and spring rolls. With his nontraditional menu, he is inspiring and attracting young chefs and students of the CIA to be creative and pursue different avenues of the food industry like food trucks. Many people, including myself, are still wondering; why food trucks? What is the benefit of having a food truck instead of a ‘brick and mortar’? To this Belward replies, “without having a brick and mortar we can be far more flexible in many areas. For one we are not stagnant in one area, targeting just one demographic of that area; we can move the truck from event to event all through out the state. Which allows us as culinarians the freedom to have a changing menu depending the venue.” Many students are interested in
photo courtesy: Adam Belward
opening companies right after graduation, and this can be a safer monetary option. Food trucks are far less expensive to open up as restaurants, and they can give a platform to build clientele before opening an official storefront. Food trucks are a diverse and expanding section on the restaurant industry that could be in the future of many of our students.
The Iron and Grain food truck derived from an old Chevy Viking. photo courtesy: Adam Belward
BY: John Doe, AOS Culinary
Most everyone who has gone through the AOS program, has doled out or received a playful ass grab, hear or told a dirty joke, and sometimes even instructor’s themselves will make the off handed reference to sex or genitalia. The CIA policy on sexual harassment is as follows: “Harassment also includes Sexual misconduct including unwelcome sexual advances, requests for sexual favors, or other unwanted verbal or physical conduct of a sexual nature depending on the circumstances of each case” (Page 6; Harassment, Sexual Misconduct, and Discrimination Policy). These behaviors are generally accepted as normal, or as just a part of the kitchen culture. It is fun, everybody likes sex, and many of us like talking about our most recent sexual exploit, or the hottest new body on campus. Some of the conversations heard around the family meal tables in Farq or The Egg would rival those of Sailors, for their raw, hyper-sexual, curse-laden nature. If I had a dollar for every time I’ve been part of a discussion about anal sex over lunch, I might even be able to pay off my student loans. Every day, my class for sure, and what I’ve heard from other classes too, there is an onslaught of sex from the moment we see our friends in the hallway before class. “Did you see that guy walk by? The things I would do to him; they’re unspeakable.” “That Girl on table 41? I bet she’s a total 10, bro.” It might feel a little risqué, or naughty reading this in the school paper, but nonetheless they are things that we’ve all heard from the men, and women in our classes. Even more so, what we hear out in the industry. Places I’ve worked had code words for hot men or women in the dining room, and again offer their two cents on the sexual favors they would ask of them. Let’s face it: cooks, young and old like to have sex, and talk about it. A lot. But, in some cases the lines of what is acceptable can be blurred. For many of us, it is a part of our culture in the back of the house, and we chalk it up to, “if you can’t take the heat, then get out of the kitchen”. But the reality is; that if ninety percent of what is said in our classes, or other kitchens around the country, was said in an office job, you’d have a harassment case in minutes. Imagine looking at a coworker next to you in a quiet office setting and saying, “Watch your cock,” because you need to open a drawer in front of them. Unacceptable, right? However, we’ve all
heard it multiple times during a busy, and especially playful service. But, when does kitchen banter go too far? When does the sex culture of the kitchen become a problem? When does it become harassment? When it is unwanted, or unwelcome. Just because you want to fit in, or you want to learn to accept the culture of the kitchen, doesn’t mean that you have to accept it, or welcome it. For a clearer view of what these behaviors look like, Hotel Online posted an article about the very same thing; their description of harassment: “Sexual harassment can take many forms from a variety of personnel and management, as well as employees who have to be aware of “what is sexual harassment? It is far more than physical assault or a demand for sex in order to retain a job or be promoted. Hotel Online also shared some statistics based on a survey of 100 restaurant workers in Lafayette, Louisiana. In the survey, over 80 percent of women, and over 64 percent of men agreed that sexual harassment is more acceptable in the restaurant industry. Not sexual joking, not sexual banter. Sexual harassment. A full description of the reporting process for harassment or discrimination can be found in the student handbook or online in the Harassment, Sexual Misconduct and Discrimination Policy. In short, the process begins informally, by asking the individual demonstrating this behavior to stop, and when appropriate, informing a chef or professor of the incident. If the behavior doesn’t stop in 21 business days, then you may begin a formal process. To report formally, Hyde Park Students can report to The Office of Student Affairs, The Title IX and Age Discrimination Act Coordinator (Joseph Morano), or the Section 504 Coordinator( Maura A. King), within 60 days. If you feel that you’re being sexually harassed, first ask for the perpetrator to stop. And if somebody asks that you stop harassing them, STOP. Don’t chalk it up to kitchen culture, instead try and keep the environment of the school, and the environment of the industry, a welcoming one. Maybe for you, maybe for all of us, going to work in a kitchen is better than a nine to five because you can be a little bit more yourself, and you can have some fun, but it’s important to keep a work environment feeling safe, and fun for everyone.
April 14, 2016
Pittsburg, PA named Zagat #1
BY: Daniel Salisbury, AOS Culinary
Known for hardened football fans, pairing a Yu e n g l i n g with a Primanti’s sandwiches, and also the place I’ve called home for the past few years, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania has a different feel to it then most places
the need for cannons during the Civil War, simply transitioned to steel. In 1910, with the help of the infamous Andrew Carnegie and U.S. steel, controlled over half of the nations’ total of steel production. However, the “Golden Age” wouldn’t last forever, and begging with strikes in the 1970’s, the steel industry in Pittsburgh began to rapidly decline, with seventy
The Pittsburg skyline with the Monongahela River in the foreground.
in the US. Pittsburghers are a proud folk; this is reflective in the rebuilding and subsequent revitalization of the city and the various neighborhoods after the collapse of the steel mill industry in the 1970’s. There is a newfound emphasis placed on art, culture, and, of course, food. However, it’s not just a slightly biased reporter echoing these sentiments; Zagat recently just named Pittsburgh at the top of its list in having the largest innovative culinary “growthspurt” of 2015. Beating out such cities as Boston, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., and even New York City. Pittsburgh isn’t an old, decrepit steel mill town that people stereotype it as, but a burgeoning city filled with James Beard caliber chefs and restaurants, and a hungry public willing to eat. Pittsburgh has an important industrial history; the coal seam, part of which lies directly in the city, was the main source of coal production in North America during the 1800’s and 1900’s, therefore making Pittsburgh an influential economic hub. Culminating with an output of a staggering 40 million tons in 1916, the coal industry suddenly began to die down with the start of WWII and the use of alternative fuels and utilization of cheaper coal. Simultaneously, iron was found naturally within the surrounding area; coinciding with the expansion of the railroad network being built within the United States, the iron industry, which had previously done well due to
five percent of the steel mills shutting down by the 1980’s. Although the past few decades in the ‘Burgh had been hard, the city today is in the midst of revitalizing itself. This can be seen in many projects across the city, with one such example taking place in the Eastern suburb of Braddock. Here lies the foundation of acclaimed Chef Kevin Sousa’s newest project, Superior Motors. A crowd funded project, his restaurant will feature housing for workers that will come from the struggling and low-income neighborhood, an apiary, and community bread oven. Across the street stands the iron gates and hollowed frame of what was once one of Andrew Carnegie’s first steel mills in the city; Sousa’s project brandishing a glamorously fresh rooftop greenhouse, next to a garden created in partnership with Grow Pittsburgh, offers a symbolic representation of a new beginning. Moving to a more famous region of the city, the Strip District showcases amazing restaurants, (Gaucho Parilla Argentina, Kaya and Legume are some favorites) a famous fish market, various independent coffee shops, and bars. It also features a unique project in Smallman Galley, the city’s “restaurant incubator”. According to the website, Smallman Galley offers four chefs the chance to spend eighteen months running their own concepts, hiring their own staff, and attend meetings from industry leaders on “branding, business plan drafting, market-
ing, and restaurant operations”. It is a chance for the public to try high quality food in a casual environment. Profiles? Chef Justin Severino is one of Pittsburgh’s best chefs; a veteran of David Kinch’s Manresa, an experienced butcher, and a three time James Beard Semifinalist and winner of Food and Wine The People’s Best New
photo courtesy: Carmine Sarazen
Chef for the Mid-Atlantic Region. Trevett Hooper @ Legume What can Pittsburgh attribute its rising restaurant scene to? Alice Julier, who is the Associate Dean of Studies at the Falk School of Sustainability at Chatham College in Gibsonia, PA, argues that the “hot” food scene in Pittsburgh is not solely based on the talent of a specific chef or a trendy restaurant, but is more specifically a by-product, albeit positive, of the city reinventing itself through other means.
Feature riculture and food movement, and the redevelopment of various neighborhoods that retain their neighborhood “feel” has included space for restaurants and eateries. People here are happy to eat out because there’s great variety in price and place. It used to be that you could only get really good regional food in less expensive places in some cities. Now you can get good regional and global food in a lot of places - and Pittsburgh is one of them. I am particularly in love with the way Trevitt Hooper [Legume] is taking some of the “older” ethnic groups in the area (Russian, Croatian) and Kate Romane [E2] Italian and using their cuisines in his menus. Julier admitted, “I think I will call it a transformation — and buy into the Zagat designation — when we get multiples of things, and when [for example] there are restaurants in the Asian culinary spectrum that are expensive and well established and when it’s not treated as amazing, but normative”. Julier brings up a valid point. Echoing these sentiments of a changing and evolving Pittsburgh is Chef Matt Christie of Streets on Carson. A native of Beaver Falls, PA, a Pennsylvania Culinary Institute grad, and with classical French background mixed with catering and even private chef experience for the owner of the Philadalphia Eagles in his repertoire.. He recently opened up his own restaurant on East Carson Street, a highly popular destination on the South Side of Pittsburgh known for music venues, bars, and a variety of restaurants. “We were once a city of blue collar hard working people; our parents and grandparents taught
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become a city focused on celebrating art, hospitality and food”. Perhaps this points to why When asked about the changing scene over the past years, Christie pointed out, “five to eight years ago, Pittsburgh was virtually non-existent and not on any kind of food radar. There was extreme emphasis based on the ‘meat and potato’ set up, and we were afraid to reach past our comfort zone with the food. Now, we have James Beard Award nominated chefs [in Severino], and if we’re talking about just down the street, the South Side today is nothing like what is was when I showed up fifteen years ago. The land of one-dollar beers and fries and coleslaw on sandwiches has evolved into an eclectic dining scene with upper class and casual restaurants with varying international and regional cuisines. “Of course”, Christie adds with a chuckle, “we still have good places to get fries and coleslaw on your sandwich”. Christie echoed Fuller’s statements, saying, “Everyone wants to help each other grow and be successful. There is enough of the pie here for everyone, and we all know it. It’s definitely one of the best support systems I’ve ever been involved in. I think it says a lot in itself that those who travel and expand out to other parts of the U.S. always come back to Pittsburgh to settle down and start their own adventures here.” Pittsburgh has come a long way, and still has room to grow. For now, it’s exciting to watch people eat good food and watch it take off. The ever-expanding and changing restaurant scene is just one of the reasons why various
Farmer Marshall Hart working at Braddock Farms. Photo from the Superior Motors Kickstarter. photo courtesy: www.iheartgph.com
She explained, “the jobs [here] are in tech and medical industries, and that brings people and it keeps people here. There’s a growing and successful ag-
us hard work and the way things should be done, especially in our city. Due to the collapse of the steel mills we went through some hard times, but have now
news and media outlets have repeatedly named Pittsburgh top of the list of livable cities in the world.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
Cont’d from front
He started his speech talking about how he had earlier in the day, visited the FDR house, right up the road. And he went on to excerpt from the State of the Union speech that President Roosevelt gave in 1944, his last. “In my view, FDR was one of the greatest presidents,” Sanders said. “He was a great president because he came into office in 1933 in a nation which was experiencing the worst depression in the history of our country and he looked around him and he saw millions of people unemployed and hungry. “He saw farmers losing their farms. He saw people struggling every single day to get the health care they needed or education for their kids. And he came forward and he said, ‘You know what, we are going to transform the way government works in America’. And that is what he did.” Whatever party preference you have, whoever you are voting for, this article is not meant to sway you in one direction or another. I save that for my personal life, not the pages of the paper that I attempt to make as unbiased as possible. All I will say is; if you are one of the 75% of 18-35 years who believe not taking part in the voting process is better, to you I say; shame. Hundreds of thousands of men and women have died to protect the rights that we enjoy here in America. One of those rights is voting. Engaging in the political process is a right that millions of people around the world are not granted. Whether you believe in the current political process or not, it is imperative that we as a generation stand up and let our voices be heard.
Cont’d from Pg. 3
rently offering an eccentric and exciting multi course menu that is quite literally a performance. Xanthe Clay of the Telegraph visited The Fat Duck and wrote the following about the new menu: “A meal at the new Fat Duck is a performance, with the waiters and waitresses, all in tweed uniforms and brogues, the actors. The plot is 24 hours of seaside holiday and, in place of a menu, there’s a map and a magnifying glass on each table.” Blumenthal has affectively created a true dining experience involving lights, atmosphere, and environment surrounding the diners and their tables to change. The Fat Duck offers an exciting new look at what the next generation of gourmet dining may soon look like. Molecular Gastronomy, though it is often referred to under a different name depending on the chef, is a very important and fundamental aspect in the past, present, and future of cooking. It is with Molecular Gastronomy that we discover the best thickeners four soups and sauces, the newest and most exciting way to prepare a filet of salmon, or even just the reason why the different temperatures used to cook eggs effects the consistency. Chefs like Ferran Adria, Grant Achatz, and Heston Blumenthal continuing to create and further develop dishes allows the next generation to follow in their steps. With these chefs displaying their creations and experimentations in magazines, journals, and TV shows they are able to further the study of Molecular Gastronomy and also educate other chefs and cooks.
Conrad N. Hilton Library Learning Library Commons: Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Video Center Hours: Campus Store Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm 10:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00amFriday: 8:30am-5:00pm 6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
The UPS Store
Low Shipping Rates Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
SGA Update
Seniors Raise Money
Hyde Park, NY April 6, 2016—
Hyde Park, NY, April 7, 2016—
The Student Government Association has revealed an updated version of their Constitution. This revision is highlighted by the creation of a new position on the board aimed at giving more students the opportunity to be involved in the Student Government Association. Currently, we only have Representatives for each of the academic programs, ex: AOS Culinary Arts Representative; however under the new Constitution these positions are referred to as “Senators.” The function of the position remains the same; it is only a re-branding of the title to accommodate the creation of the new “Student Representative” positions. The new Student Representative positions are open to any current student regardless of academic program. The Student Government recognizes the need for specific representation for our international students, and has created a specific “International Student Representative” position on the board to better address the unique needs and challenges faced by the international population on campus. In addition there are four more Representative positions available not specified to any particular academic program. The Student Government Association would like to encourage all students who want to make an impact on campus to consider applying for one of the Representative positions. Those interested in applying please contact SGA@ cia.culinary.edu or see Matt Ivins, SGA Advisor in the SRC.
As part of The Culinary Institute of America’s bachelor’s degrees in management, seniors in the Foodservice Management course develop and execute a special event as a final project before graduation. Proceeds from the themed fine-dining experiences are split between CIA scholarship funds and charities selected by students. This semester, the graduating class hosted two events and raised $10,122 for the selected charities and scholarships. On February 13, “A Night Under the Southern Stars” raised $4,800 for the ProjectLife homeless shelter in Newburgh, NY, and the Side Towel Scholarship at the CIA. In addition, hats, scarves, and mittens were collected for ProjectLife, a shelter providing a place to sleep, a hot meal to eat, and opportunities to help find employment. One hundred twenty guests enjoyed elevated Southern comfort food, bluegrass music, creative bourbon-themed cocktails, and beautiful décor. “Gatsby” took place on March 12, and worked with the Children’s Home of Poughkeepsie, an organization that provides a range of services and programs giving hope and healing to abused and neglected children in the area. With 130 guests attending, the class was able to raise $5,322 from the silent auction and ticket sales for the Children’s Home and CIA student scholarships. Nearly 300 canned goods and craft supplies were also collected for the Children’s Home. Each class is divided into various
Hours of Operation Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
teams, along with the studentelected general manager and assistant general manager. The food service team created a fourcourse meal plus hors d’oeuvre for the cocktail hour. The service team split into subcommittees including décor and beverage, and performed synchronized dinner service for guests professionally and elegantly. Additionally, the service team created seating charts, managing the flow of food during the event, while the décor team created an enticing ambiance. Marketing and finance teams were responsible for gathering silent auction items, creating advertisements, taking reservations, maintaining a budget, and turning a profit to benefit the charities and scholarships. “Providing meaningful donations and an unforgettable experience for the guests is an achievement that both my fellow students and I are proud of,” says marketing team leader Ori Friedman. These events have students utilize the knowledge they have acquired during almost four years of education at the CIA. Skills ranging from culinary, baking and pastry, wines and beverage sales, management, and hospitality all come into play as they showcase their skills. Students are responsible for planning and executing every aspect of the event, including theme, food, drink, decorations, and service. Next semester’s senior class will be holding events on June 11th, June 18th, and July 9th.
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
April 14, 2016
Entertainment
Word Fill
Last Block’s Puzzle Solution
Key
1. Pickling 2. Sous Vide 3. Tuiles 4. Parboil 5. Baste 6. Rare 7. Stir 8. Thyme 9. Gastropod 10. Prebake 11. Mulled 12. Tenderize
4 Letters Chop Coat Cube 5 Letters
Scald Score Shuck Glaze 6 Letters
Garlic Chives Dragee Bitter Dredge
Oolong 7 Letters Chablis 8 Letters Mirepoix
Bavarian Cabernet 9 Letters Financier Liquefier
9
10 Letters Frangipane Couverture Stabilizer Danny
13. Macerate 14. Toast 15. Oil 16. Jicama 17. Sear 18. Marinate 19. Quenelle 20. Roux 21. Broil 22. Boil 23. Charcuterie 24. Mousse
Meyer 12 Letters Ron Ben Israel
The solution will be in the next issue.
Designed BY: Hanna Krilov, AOS Baking &Pastry
***This Contract is not to be used for anything other then it’s orignal intent. La Papillote and The CIA have no affiliation with AffirmativeConsent.com and accept no responsibility for misuse this contract.***
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of April 14, 2016 Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Jinwook Chling, Samuel To, Drew Hudman, James Mikes, Altaniash Gariyani, Ellie Cramton, Tiffany Vargas Back Row: Don Salisbury, Ariel R. Rady, Adriana Veltri, Sean Morrill, Bryce Mooney, Kyle Minard, Alycia Palame, Mia Kuo
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Annie McGrath, Marry Cumella, Victoria Gardona, Mariah Hernandez, Shanese Greatheart, Alyssa McDill, Patricia Dennison, Gabrielre Smith Back Row: Angelica Ocegueds, Mason Aronson, Gabriel Concardia, Steven Osorio, Adam Shoemaker, Adam Belward, Thomas Mendel, Craig Elliett, Genesis Rosa, Rodolfo Hurtado
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Michael Rodriquez, Kevin Pietha, Christopher West, Jill Kwon, Frances Talampas, Caitlyn Richter, Jeffthalie Armand Back Row: Gleneaia Gowans, Esteban Rodriquez, Jose R. Bermudez, Eric Evngelkta, Pete, Berge, Maiyan Montogmery, Dohyun Kang, Sarah Slazar
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Angela Piccinich, Aubrey Dally, Victoria Ondraeek, Marcella Andonie, Abigail Olson, Remi Moore, Emily O’brien Back Row: Alyssa Zajaczkowski, Kelsey Daily, Christopher Staffa, Dakota Nguyer, Stephanie Smida, Olivia Jose, Sasha Brown
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Bryan McGurk, Matthew Fowler, Gabrielle McCoy Unight, Samantha Mason, Portia Fergus, Brandon Kennedy Back Row: Matthew Painter, Cheng Lee, Chris McCluce, RS Yoakum, Ingeol Cho, Michael Clark, Jaemin Ko, Michael Eckles
AOS Graduation Speaker: Phillip Foss ‘91 Chef and Owner of EL Ideas
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
Phillip Foss, chef and owner of EL Ideas, turns preconceived notions of elite dining upside down with his restaurant hidden on a dead-end street next to a train yard in Chicago’s Douglas Park neighborhood. The 26-seat dining room opens to the kitchen, and guests are invited and encouraged to visit and interact with the chefs preparing their dinner. The cuisine is as adventurous as the setting is unusual, with precision and attention given to each course and classical cooking techniques merging with innovative ideas. Chef Foss began his career in his hometown of Milwaukee, WI as a short order cook. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America in 1991, he moved to New York City and honed his skills in famed restaurants such as Lafayette in the Drake Swiss Hotel under Jean-Georges Vongerichten; The Quilted Giraffe; Oceana, the flagship restaurant of the Livanos family that he helped open; and Le Cirque under Dan-
iel Boulud. As the only culinary holdover in the move from the original Le Cirque to its second incarnation, Chef Foss had the honor of cooking for several presidents, countless dignitaries and celebrities, and Pope John Paul II. After leaving Le Cirque, he began what could best be described as a nomadic culinary existence. His first stop was in Vence, France, where he fulfilled his dream of staging in a European kitchen— doing so under the wing of Michelin two-star Chef Jacques Maximin. Chef Foss then returned to the U.S. as the chef of Bistrot Margot in Chicago. From there, he spent the better part of a year in Brazil; two years on the island of Maui at the Four Seasons, Wailea; two years in Israel as the chef of the fine dining La Regence in the King David Hotel; and a quick stop at the fivediamond Newport Room in Bermuda. Back in Chicago, Chef Foss landed at the Lockwood Restaurant at
The Palmer House, then went on to pioneer the burgeoning Chicago food truck scene with his Meatyballs Mobile. Less than a year after launching the food truck, he opened the one-of-akind EL Ideas in the very kitchen he was using for his food truck. During its first year, EL Ideas earned three stars from the Chicago Tribune, and was also named a Chicago magazine “Best New Restaurant” and Chicago Reader “Best Restaurant of 2011.” It received its first Michelin star in 2013. Most recently, Chef Foss was featured in Plate magazine’s 2015 list of 30 Chefs to Watch, and the Jean Banchet Awards for Culinary Excellence in Chicago nominated him for Chef of the Year and EL Ideas for Restaurant of the Year and Best Restaurant Service. Chef Foss has appeared on The Steve Harvey Show, Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern, Today, Fox and Friends, and CNN Money.`
April 14, 2016
Graduation
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BPS Graduating Class of April 14, 2016
Applied Food Studies Arturo Alvarez Martinez Alexis Baker June Mumo Erica Oliner Matthew Rosco Claire Sanders Alejandro Tress Olushola Wadley Connor White Baking & Pastry Olivia Agrenot Dakota Albury Lauren Battaglia Rachel Bresette LeighAnne Colello Nicole Corona Hannah DeBey Carlie Diette Tiffany Duffy Maria Florez
Andrew Hillary AlexLynn Marrone Jason McNeir Emily Narayansingh Nan San Ahram Song Aimee Urbano Samantha Walsh Adeline West Culinary Arts Nicholas Altero Michael Anez Ezio Bertorelli Joshua Blum Randall Boden Nicholas Boldrer-O’Murtagh Michael Burgen Jason Carter-Edwards Eric Casey Geraldine Cesardo Navarrete John Chamorro
Sung Woo Cho Henry Chou Caitlin Christman Melanie Delcourt Ross Derby Jacqueline Doucette Joshua Dunson Emerson Ewald Ori Friedman Igor Goldshmidt Keenan Goodwin Jamsel Gyaltshen Zachary Hanrahan Paige Heckman Patricia Hernandez Ariella Hillary Christopher Hoi Andrew Ingrassia Eunbee Jang Alberto Jimenez Bienen Yusuke Kanaumi Tae Youn Kim
Jordan Lanier Seunghyun Lee Jonghwi Lim Richard Longo John Masching Edouard Massich Abdul Md Zaidi Robert Micks Christopher Minckler Alexander Obenauer Bernard Padin Taagamanusina Paialii Lottaya Palmer Victoria Pessolano Jose Quintero Kunal Ramchandani Maria Rivera Beltran Caitlin Rogers Kristal Rosero Anthony Russo Rachel Saulsberry Heejun Seo
William Sobo III Stephan Sommer Kenny Sugiarto Ayana Teran Matthew Thomas Ashley Trujillo Vincent Wu Aref Zalatimo Katie Zurick Culinary Science Joshua Castro-Martinez Quentin Demarre Samuel Kirsch Jehan Luth Eric Malmud Dasol Park Jason Tucker Timothy Wang Wanda Wray
BPS Graduation Speaker: Joseph Kadow
Executive Vice President & Chief Legal Officer of Bloomin’ Brands, INC. Joseph (Joe) Kadow is the executive vice president and chief legal officer of Bloomin’ Brands, Inc., whose four distinct concepts include Outback Steakhouse, Carrabba’s Italian Grill, Bonefish Grill, and Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar. An original member of the Bloomin’ Brands executive leadership team, Mr. Kadow leads the company’s legal, human resources, communications, and government relations functions. He began his career at Bloomin’ Brands in 1994 as senior vice president, general counsel, and secretary. Prior to joining Bloomin’ Brands, Mr. Kadow was a partner in the national law firm of BakerHostetler. Mr. Kadow also serves as the 2016 chairman of the board of directors of the National Restaurant Association, which photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
advocates for the restaurant industry and promotes entrepreneurship and hospitality. He previously served as treasurer and vice chairman of the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation in 2014 and 2015, respectively. In addition, he is a member of the board of directors and the audit committee of The Habit Restaurants, Inc., parent company of the Habit Burger Grill fast casual restaurant concept. A native of Scranton, PA, Mr. Kadow graduated from the University of Scranton in 1978 with a bachelor of science degree in accounting. He received his Juris Doctor degree from the Dickinson School of Law of Pennsylvania State University in 1981 and was admitted to practice in Pennsylvania in 1981 and Florida in 1983. Committed to education and his community, Mr. Kadow
served on the board of trustees at the University of Scranton from 2007 to 2008 and from 2010 to 2011. He established the need-based Anne Maroni Kadow Memorial Scholarship at the university in memory of his mother. Mr. Kadow has also served on the faculty of the Florida Directors’ Institute at The University of Tampa. He supports the Friedreich’s Ataxia Research Alliance, Boys and Girls Club of Northeastern Pennsylvania, and the David A. Straz, Jr. Center for the Performing Arts.
LA PAPILLOTE
Industry
Culinary Book Review BY: Ray Delucci, AOS Culinary
The Making of A Chef: Few understand what we as students at The Culinary go through. We have busy schedules that lead to focusing solely on our careers. Portraying this to the world is Michael Ruhlman in; The Making of a Chef. Rulhman was a journalist before he came to the CIA and his passion for food led him to attend our school in order to write a book about it. Ruhlman’s respect for the industry is made clear to the reader. The book consists of stories from his first year here at The CIA. Appreciating the making of a perfect stock, Ruhlman discusses this to great detail early on. He makes the same mistakes we have and that is why it feels so personal. Ruhlman expresses the time and dedication committed to this school on a regular basis. He has personal struggles with attending every class, while also trying to spend time with his family. The
struggle is vividly brought to life by his energy and attention to detail. This book is not only something to read, but also a memory to everyone who has attended The Culinary Institute of Ameri-
ca. It is a tribute to the school that we live and breathe, and is a must read for any culinarian. The Soul of A Chef: The Soul of a Chef is like two books in one. The first part is a behind the scenes
look at the Certified Master Chef Exam. This Exam is a test that is provided by the American Culinary Federation. It is a test that spans days and will require the chef to have knowledge on almost everything related to cooking. It is a test few pass. Michael Ruhlman provides commentary on the events, and portrays beautifully the determination needed to complete the exam. He wants us to feel the stress and exhaustion of the chefs, and by the end of the first part, it is something you know is serious. The second half of the book goes into the world of Michael Symon, owner of the restaurant Lola in Cleveland, and Thomas Keller, owner of The French Laundry in California. Ruhlman dives deep into the thinking of these chefs, relaying their backstories and struggle they have faced to get to where they are now. His conversations with Thomas Keller are some of the best moments of the book, and his portrayal of Michael Symon leaves you wanting to read more. Every detail is clearly drawn out
in your head. This book was intended to show the grit and determination of Chefs, and it does that with a lot of soul. The Reach of A Chef: The third book in Ruhlman’s trilogy is a book focused on the industry as a whole. It asks the same questions we ponder on a daily basis here at school: how much effect do chefs really have in this world. We start the book with a very well structured article on Ruhlman visiting the CIA again. He even writes a chapter on our President; Tim Ryan. He revisits the ‘Cuisines of Asia’ kitchen with his fundamentals instructor, Chef Pardus, and realizes that even after cooking for a while, he can make mistakes as well. Also, chefs like Emeril and Rachel Ray, while are seen most of the time in a negative light by chefs in our industry, but Ruhlman provides a different point of view. He shows us how they have struggled as well, and how they work themselves as well to become successful. Bobby Flay is in the book, and he shows us that every single part of our in-
dustry is needed. We then finish with Thomas Keller and Masayoshi Takayama. Ruhlman shows us how Thomas Keller was able to open Michelin star restaurants on each coast of our country. He then tells us about his dining ex-
ager of culinary and strategic initiatives for Seafood Watch. “When a respected educational institution makes sustainability a centerpiece of its curriculum, it reinforces for new generations of chefs the importance of incorporating sustainable sourcing into decisions about how to build their menus. And the college is determined to continue that reinforcement. “The CIA’s ongoing relationship with the Seafood Watch program has helped us develop an acute awareness as to the sourcing of our seafood purchases,” says Bruce Mattel, associate dean of food producphoto courtesy: www.ciachef.edu tion and a memteaching kitchens at the col- ber of the Seafood Watch Blue lege. Ribbon Task Force of culinary “The commitment by The Cu- leaders. “We continue to seek linary Institute of America to out more procurement details sourcing ocean-friendly sea- from our seafood suppliers to food is really significant,” ensure that the CIA can share says Sheila Bowman, man- accurate species, geographi-
cal, and fishing method information with our students.” In both the CIA’s freshmanlevel Seafood Identification, Fabrication, and Utilization course and in its new bachelor’s degree major in Applied Food Studies, students learn about the best practices in aquaculture and commercial fishing. “We teach students to be conscientious as chefs and to be aware of how their food sourcing decisions affect the environment,” Mattel says, emphasizing the CIA commitment to seasonality and sustainability. “Our kitchens prepare fish that aren’t menu staples with the hope students will incorporate these underutilized species into their future repertoire and help take the pressure off more popular, but overfished, species.” There are just three or four species on the Seafood Watch “avoid” list that the CIA still uses, mostly in small quantities and only because students need to be exposed to preparing these fish as part of their culinary education. In addition, the college takes into account the environmental impact of, say, shipping a sustainably caught or farmed fish 4,000 miles versus buying a small quantity of another species caught closer to a chef’s home kitchen.
perience at Masa, a restaurant so highly praised and claimed, that most chefs regard it as the best in New York City. It is beautiful and sleek the way Masa is described, and is a chapter that must be read by anyone striving for perfection.
Seafood Sustainability BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contibutor
Hyde Park, NY – As the world’s premier culinary college, The Culinary Institute of America strives to be a re-
$750,000 a year on seafood. Five years ago, around 25 percent of those purchases were of species considered unsus-
Chef Instructor Gerard Viverito shows off a dressed Atlantic Farmed Salmon.
sponsible steward of the environment and to instill the importance of sustainability to its students—the food industry’s future thought leaders and policymakers. The New York campus spends about
tainable. On the eve of the 2016 International Sustainable Seafood Day, March 18, that figure is down to five percent by volume. The CIA has been working with the Monterey Bay Aquar-
ium Seafood Watch program to source as much sustainable seafood as possible for the five public restaurants and 42