June 17, 2016
La
Volume 37, No. 08
Papillote Just a Tip
Heritage Brew & Food
BY: Kaitlin Egloff, BPS Culinary Science
Despite the fact that the CIA is located in the center of the Hudson Valley, we often forget what a bountiful area in which we live. Other romanticized locations, such as the Napa Valley, receive attention in a way that the Hudson Valley does not. Luckily, we can change that. Two young chefs have already begun this venture by starting Heritage Brew and Food. Zachary Stoller ‘14 and Frankie S. Ortiz ‘14 are both graduates of the Farm to Table BPS Program. Inspired by their training under Chef Larry Forgione at the Greystone campus, they want to showcase the abundance of the Hudson Valley. Their central idea is “community to table”; networking and building relationships with local farmers and artisans makes for better food and a more closely knit community. This is similar to
Roasted ribeye on a bed of heirloom carrots topped with micro-greens. photo courtesy: Kaitlin Egloff
a broken, old-fashioned practice that we as potential industry leaders should try and phase out moving forward. Let’s start out by examining the science behind the issue. There are hundreds of studies on the topic. I will summarize some of the larger points that often get brought up but I encourage you to research the topic yourself if you are curious about the statistical math or any other finer details. If you are a fan of the work Cornell does with regards to our industry, they have various research pieces to examine on the subject. Here is a quote that hits a lot of points at once: “From a theoretical economic point of view, gratuities solve the principal-agent problem, and many managers believe they provide incentive for greater worker effort. However, studies of the real world practice show that
May 2015. With any new policy, it is expected that there is a system of evaluation that allows the administrators to determine whether or not this new system is beneficial and is, in fact, achieving the goal set. One day, my curiosity was poking at me. I thought to myself “Where do all of the points go at the end of the week? Do I get them back next semester?” The next thought that followed was, “If points are dollars that I have already paid for my meal plan, then does the school take my money? Why can’t I donate it?” and with that, I devoted the next week or so to finding some answers. I first met with Professor Flynn to see if my idea was even a stepping stone for making something big happen. He heard my thoughts and encouraged me that this idea is worthy of further research to make a change happen. The next day I spoke with managers in dining services who simply stated that: “Students are encouraged to use all of their
measure the success of the new policy? And if students are told that points are NOT equivalent to dollars then why is there a dollar sign next to my balance of points in the GET app? I started my research on this topic in late November, and almost 8 months later my brain is still pumping with passion to make a change. It is unsettling to my mind that there are people in this community that suffer from food insecurity everyday. As a student of a highly-ranked culinary college I believe that it is my job to show my hospitality in any way that I can. If this idea blossoms into an action that the school takes part in, students can opt-in to donate their points to the food pantry of Poughkeepsie at the end of every week. At the end of every month, The CIA will present a check of the collective points to the food pantry to help those who are in need. It is important that the student body gets involved in making a difference to our community.
As a group of people who share the love of food, we can reach out and do our part to help fight hunger and food insecurity. With this movement, The CIA can influence our neighboring colleges such as Marist and Vassar to donate as well; with the support from these colleges it is possible to reach even further into the community and help make a difference where it is needed. By donating money that possibly ends up paying for electric bills or a fresh coat of paint, we as students leading in the hospitality industry can seriously make a change in many family’s lives. Ask any student on campus how they feel about the amount of food waste at The CIA. The responses will be laced with frustration and the desire for change will be expressed. Will you contribute to the squandering? Or will you make a difference for a handful of families living in our community?
endeavors. Thus, they decided to open a pop-up restaurant: low overhead, little risk, unbridled creativity and boundless opportunities. Locality is the keystone of their brand. They
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Points to Poughkeepsie
BY: Felica Gane, BPS Culinary
Poughkeepsie, NY by definition is a food desert according to the USDA and the American Nutrition Association. What exactly does this mean? A food desert is defined as an impoverished area that lacks easily accessible fresh fruit, vegetables, and other healthy whole foods. As most students are already aware, at midnight on Friday, our unused points are eliminated from our accounts and the balance returns to zero. But where do all of the unused points go? Unfortunately, the monetary value of the points students don’t use at the end of the week goes back to the CIA as a financial benefit. Points will not be returned into the student’s possession if they go unused. I am proposing that The CIA donates the monetary value of the points to the local food pantry of Poughkeepsie. This system for allocating points has been in place since
“From the Editor’s Desk”
BY: Tristan Heath, AOS Culinary
If I were to compile a list of tasks that humans should be good at, but tend to perform poorly; ‘treating each other fairly’ and ‘math’ would be high on that list. Therefore it befuddles me that some countries (including the United States) continue to employ practices of gratuity determined by the patron. I know it might seem very simple and logical: potential for tips should make servers more motivated to perform better, right? In a world where we humans are unbiased at our core and decent at math maybe, but that is not the world we live in unfortunately. Motivation in itself is a complex issue that cannot simply be controlled by money as a carrot on the end of a stick. Whether examining studies that discredit the effectiveness of tipping, or considering the disparity in pay it contributes to with regards to BoH vs FoH, tipping emerges as
what is already common practice in Napa. The inspiration for a popup restaurant sprung from a desire to express their own originality and make a name for themselves, as they felt they were ready to begin on their own culinary
“SGA Update” & “Measurable Success”
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points, and if they do not; then is it a financial benefit to the college? Well, yes.” I then met with the advisor in Student Financial & Registration Services (SFRS) that is responsible for the meal plan part of our tuition – which is $1,400 per semester. I asked her if there is some sort of system that tracks usage of points, and specifically how many are going unused. She called (no exaggeration) five different people in charge of all things relating to the points system: Dining Services, Managers at The Egg, Accounting Advisors, and CS Gold – which is the company that takes and loads the points onto the student ID cards each week. None of them said that there is a system currently in place for tracking points that go unused at the end of the week. The best answer I could gather was that all of the student’s unused dollars were floating around in cyberspace somewhere. Why something isn’t already in place? Wouldn’t they want to
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CENTER SPREAD
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“Graduation”
“Composting Bin”
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Tristan Heath Joseph Haffly Kaitlin Egloff Makena Wininger Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings Kevin Markey Matt Ivins
Dave Whalen Crystal Tan Haylee Stephens Felicia Gane Ian Gilchrist Thiana Anderson Lauren Byrne Alexis Brown
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
BY: Haylee Stephens, SGA Public Relations Manager
June 17th, 2016
Fellow Students,
I almost cannot believe that I am writing this, inside my office, what with it being so beautiful outside. Summer is upon us and I can feel my wanting, no my needing, to be out in the sun… even if I only can withstand ten minutes before I’m burnt worse then a McCue post. All I can focus on is my graduation. By the time most of you read this, I will be finished with my AOS degree and enjoying my two and a half month vacation before beginning BPS in September. That is something that I cannot even fathom; 70 something days of no class, no responsibilities, no teachers, no books, and no dirty looks. Joking aside, the last couple weeks have been a great time of reflection for me. I am not going to take this opportunity to bore you with my many abstract musings. My only advice; try and enjoy this experience as much as possible, because all of a sudden it’ll be over. Real life will be knocking soon and you will be obligated to answer. I do feel a sense of moral responsibility to address the recent tragedies that have taken place. I remember very well having written in one of my letters about the events that took place in Paris last year. I will follow the same rhetoric as before; the path to peace begins with acceptance. We must accept that every single one of us is different and yet the same. By opening our minds, we will find that our differences are what make us (humans) so unique, and that the only way we will not realize our similarities, is to ignore this. Sláinte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Thiana Anderson Layout Editor
Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
Makena Winniger Copy Editor
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HYDE PARK, NY – The Student Government Association has made several decisions and is starting new initiatives to be completed before the board ends terms in July. With each decision made and the initiatives put into action, we are continuing to move forward with the student body in mind and hope to improve our campus step by step. Following up from the last update, the last Student Representative position has been filled by Grace Lee. Along with filling the Student Representative positions, the SGA has also assigned the focus areas for each representative to work on. This will include special projects involving that focus area, and reporting updates and concerns of that topic. The assignments are as follows: Darwin Acosta – Residential Life, Jose Gordillo – Student Outreach, Travis Lopez – Veterans, and Grace Lee – Diversity. Nicholas Green remains in the position of International Student Representative. We are confident that these areas of focus cover multiple aspects of student concerns and will allow the board to make progress on resolving specific concerns in these areas. As we continue with these Student Representative positions, we hope to develop duties and responsibilities for future boards. A survey for veterans will be coming out within the next two weeks, created by Travis Lopez, and reported directly to the administration’s Veterans
Committee. The reason for this survey is to gather information from veterans about their experience on campus, what needs to be addressed and how the overall educational quality for them can be improved. If you are a veteran, please check your email for this survey so we may get as much feedback as possible. Another survey out for students is the IT survey, which touches on topics like computer availability, wireless connection, and technologic devices used by students. This survey was emailed to all students, so please check your email to participate. In the wake of the most recent Student Satisfaction survey results being released, the SGA is working with the school administration to take steps in improving the lower ranked areas on campus. As an achievable initiative taken by the board, we have decided to create a student focus group to come together and discuss The Egg. Each Senator and Representative is looking for students interested to be a part of this focus group under their respective areas. If you would like to be a part of this focus group, please contact your Senator or any SGA board member. This focus group will discuss positive details about The Egg, things that may be improved, and the overall student expectations of the facility. This is a chance to voice your opinion, so if you are interested, do not hesitate to take action.
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Measurable Success
Public meetings are held every other Wednesday at 9:15 PM in the Multi-Purpose Room in the SRC; dates can be found posted on bulletin boards and in “The Scoop.” These meetings provide an opportunity for students to learn what SGA is working on, witness new club activations, and voice any questions or concerns. Over the course of next month there will be several presentations from various members of the CIA administration. At the most recent Public Meeting there was a presentation on updates to the academic catalogue and there will be a discussion on campus IT updates at the June 22nd meeting. We strongly encourage students to go to these meetings to make themselves aware of the updates and other happenings on campus. Club Con will be held on Wednesday, June 29, outside of the SRC. The theme is Summer Beach Party, and there will be free ice cream and toppings for those who attend! This is a great chance to get to know the clubs and organizations we have on campus, including the newly activated Chinese Culture Club, the Baking & Pastry Society, and the recently re-activated Word Poetry Society. New student positions, campus facility initiatives, and student outreach are just some of the current projects the SGA is working on. Everything we do is with the students in mind as we continue to seek improvement for the school, and the overall student experience. If you ever see a problem or have a concern on campus, do not be afraid to approach your Senator, a board member, or student representative. It is important to remember that even though changes are being made, the one thing that does not change is that students come first.
BY: Joseph Haffly, AOS Culinary
Everyone has a different idea of happiness. For some it is having a lot of money, for others it is getting married and having kids, getting their dream job, or graduating from college. The point is, we all think something different when asked if we are successful or who we think is successful. Personally I find it difficult to say when someone else is successful in a general sense, since I have no idea what their end goal or idea of success is. I think success is a constantly changing and moving target that we all aim for. There are also different levels of success. You may find yourself successful for the day by having completed all your errands that you set out to do. You could be successful in your monthly goal for dieting or having saved enough money. I think it is important for us to realize that since we all see success in a different light, it is unfair to say that someone is unsuccessful. I personally have achieved things I found average that others saw as a success and praised me for them. Again, I think it is all based on the individual. I personally look at success almost on a scale: minor success to major success. Things I consider a minor success would be getting all my homework done and a good night’s sleep. A major success would be something like a job promotion, getting accepted to school, graduating, or getting a dream job. Somewhere in the middle resides things like getting a high grade in daily class performance. This scale varies as you might have guessed. It has changed within the last six months since coming to Hyde Park and the CIA. Prior to beginning here it had to do mostly with work and career advancement; now it has expanded to encompass all of that and more.
When I think of whether or not someone else is successful, I try to look at two things. The first being whether they are happy in their work. Do they enjoy their occupation or career? Does it motivate and inspire them? If not, then their success is questionable, no matter the paycheck. The second thing that I look at is their quality of life. This often plays off of the first in a matter of what it is they enjoy doing. I do not believe you need to make a lot of money, drive a nice car, and own a big house to be successful. If you have all of these but are unhappy, then, in my personal opinion, you are not truly successful. I also feel that if you truly enjoy your job but you do not make enough money to pay your bills and eat, then you have not reached success. Some of us may not feel successful until we look back and see how far we have come and what we have done. I measure my success in my improvements. We all have goals and it is important that we feel accomplished in the little things on our way to the big goals. We need to stay motivated and inspired. If we take some time and look at how far we have come and what we have achieved so far we will be impressed with ourselves. There is no easy way to success. I think if you want to be successful then you need to be ready to put a lot of work in. The golden ticket to success is hard work. You need to understand what a real restaurant entails, beyond the classrooms and kitchens of the CIA. Slacking off for a day here results in a low grade, slacking off in a restaurant could cost you your job. Work hard, stay focused, and appreciate what you have already accomplished. If you can do that then, in my opinion, you will find yourself successful.
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Campus
SGA Update
From the Editor’s Desk
June 17, 2016
June 17, 2016
Holy Mass
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
BY: Makena Wininger, AOS Culinary
The chef’s dmoe at the Down to Earth tent at the Heritage Brew and Food event.
might be available but the actual ingredients weren’t decided until the day of the event. Thus, it is important to maintain a trusting relationship with purveyors; they had not a clue as to what would be available or how the
Features
ingredients would taste. This is especially the case in late May, when the pop-up took place, a time where produce is just beginning to spring from the earth. It is also a time when chefs deal with an awkward span of time which straddles the finale of winter root vegetables and citrus, as well as not quite reaching the plentiful harvest of summer. Zach starting brewing beer when he received a kit for his 21st birthday. Despite the fact that his first brew was “terrible,” he didn’t quit and has been practicing since. He is selftaught in the art of beer pairing and tries to taste as many beers as possible to develop his palate. Currently, he brews fresh beer for the restaurant where he works. His beer embodies the same principles as the food; it is not highly processed or filtered, thus it maintains its own individual character. All of the brews for the pop-up are locally sourced from small breweries, which brings unrivaled uniqueness to the selection. To bring notoriety to their brand, Stoller and Ortiz had a demonstration booth at the Larchmont Farmer’s Market where they prepared a stack of pork belly atop caramelized apples on bread. The buzzing farmer’s market received them warmly as the shoppers seemed to flock to their booth for a taste. The pop-up restaurant, located at Plates, where Stoller is a sous chef, a restaurant located in the upscale yet quaint village of Larchmont, NY. The first impressions were made by cheery chamomile flowers and an awesome playlist of Alabama Shakes and the Arctic Monkeys.
A serene cottage feel was modernized by a color palate of black and white. Hand-crafted drinking glasses made from recycled wine bottles were the vessel of choice for the beer. The meal began with an amuse bouche of a tiny, baby beet with a pearl of local goat cheese perched atop, complete with a sunny yellow flower petal. This was followed by a bright and balanced salad of spring greens with pea puree, which was paired with fruity ‘Rare Form Sabbatical Session Ale’ that complemented the vibrant white balsamic and blood orange dressing. The hoppy beer accentuated the vegetal bitterness of the lettuces. Next, an unctuous rendition of pillow-like ricotta gnocchi that was not only addictively savory, but delicately saccharine, courtesy of a velvety parsnip puree. This matched the dairy notes of the ‘Brooklyn Sorachi Ale’ with finesse. The beer was also barely sweet but had enough bitterness to relieve the palate of the richness of the dish. Perfectly cooked skate and succulent crayfish were accompanied by candy-like preserved cherry tomatoes and a sumptuous bisque, underscored by fragrant lemon verbena. ‘2 Way Brewing Revolution Red’ was malty, well rounded and spicy in the throat, all characteristics which highlighted the sweetness of the seafood and tomato. Flavorful roasted ribeye was surrounded by a surprisingly earthy vegetable jus, caramelized carrots, ultrasavory crispy mushrooms and everyone’s favorite allium, ramps. The ‘Broken Bow Broken Heart Stout’ was named aptly; it smelled of cookies, making
photo courtesy: Kaitlin Egloff
it a perfect drink to mend a broken heart. The molasses-like character of the beer became like another sauce for the umamiladen dish. A local chèvre panna cotta was the final dish of the night; an elegant way to coerce the delicate flavors and creamy, yet grassy tang of the cheese onto the palate without being overbearing. Succulent blueberry compote and organic, single batch honey complemented the summery dish. A pleasantly viscous, ‘Hot Scotchy’ which tasted of oatmeal finished with scotch was borderline addictive. It provided a rich contrast to the ethereal dessert. The winteriness of the hot beverage and the summery lightness of the dessert bridged the seasons to create a perfect dish reminiscent of the ambivalent springtime of the Hudson Valley. Heritage Brew and Food is drawing awareness to “community-to-table” dining and drinking, their food and ideas are truly starting a revolutionary practice in the Hudson Valley. Even though this seems like a trendy new concept, people have always utilized what was local and seasonal because that was the extent of available ingredients. In actuality, this is how humans have been cooking for thousands of years, only recently have we had the ability to ship produce thousands of miles. Heritage Brew and Food is re-imagining the way we connect with our environment and community, not to mention serving creative dishes impeccably paired with beer.
For the past three and a half years there has been a small company in Beacon, New York, making a global impact through local success. The company, More Good, founded in December 2012 by Jason Schuler, has since changed countless lives, both locally and across the world, selling one bottle of hand-crafted soda syrup at a time. I received the opportunity to sit down and chat with Schuler and copartner, Scott Brenner, to discuss the intersection of success and social responsibility in the current business world. Armed with a genuine love of people, community, and hospitality, Schuler founded his business on a desire to help. “I’ve always wanted to help others; I’ve just been crippled by student debt or a simple inability to help. When I was given the opportunity, I went full bore. That’s what fuels my passion to be successful.” When I asked where that desire comes from, he told me “I’m a hospitality junkie.” Schuler then recounted to me how he got started in the foodservice industry at just 14 years old. “My
to providing under-privileged areas of the world with clean water through the construction of water wells. “The organization is all about providing clean water to those who need it and we’re a beverage company, so generosity. org seemed like a natural choice,” Schuler said. “We partnered with generosity.org almost the same day More Good became incorporated.” In the three and a half years the company has been in operation, it has donated over $26,000 to build water wells in Uganda, Ghana, and Haiti. Scott Brenner joined the More Good team in October of last year. “I was doing a lot of hospitality consulting; living in Hudson, New York, and commuting to the city. I needed a shorter commute, so I moved to Beacon. I always had a dream of making a social impact and Beacon seemed like a good place to do that. I wanted people interested in culinary arts to have a place to carry out their own dreams without the overhead. I knew Jason had this kitchen here at More Good, so I approached him with the idea of the Commissary Kitchen.” This
“You get a culinary degree, not a marketing degree,” Brenner laughed, “It’s difficult to learn how to sell your product.” “We are entrepreneurs for entrepreneurs,” Schuler said, “We’ve created a resource for other individuals just starting out and we’re offering our own experience, all the hardships we’ve faced, as a resource too.” “We want everyone working here to feel that same level of investment. We try to take the people selling the product and have them work with us a couple of nights to show them what we do, how the product is made, and let them participate in the process. We want to show them why it’s important: because we made it with our own two hands.” Brenner told me that he thinks what is important about More Good is that they’re striving to provide jobs for people who already live in the area. “Without originally being able to promise full time positions, we’ve managed to create eight or nine full time jobs just within the last two months,” Brenner said. The company has developed this cycle by creating more jobs, allowing
More Good drinks selection; Jalapeno Black Tea, Ginger Ale, Lemon Lime, Oranage Pop, Cassia Kream, Hibiscus Rooibos, Spiced Chai, Spring Tonic, Root Beer, and Roasted Cacao. photo courtesy: www.drinkmoregood.com
first job interview was at the local video store, but I totally bombed the interview, so my father took me to a pizzeria where I got hired as a bus boy. After my first shift, being able to help people and put a smile on people’s faces, I was totally hooked,” Schuler said. When asked about the meaning of success to him personally, Schuler said, “Every day that I wake up, I start my day with a personal challenge to be better than I was yesterday in everything I do. I want to maintain a continuing improvement on all levels. Being a profitable company able to operate a profitable bottom line is not enough anymore,” Schuler expressed. “We have to think about doing good by our staff, as well as helping the community and the planet. You have to truly want to make a change. This has been a cornerstone and pillar of our business since the beginning.” Schuler has taken this sentiment further than many would dare. Before More Good had made a single dollar, made one transaction, Schuler pledged $4,000 to Generosity. org, an organization dedicated
Commissary Kitchen idea Brenner brought to the table was another way for More Good to invest in their community. The kitchen in the building that houses More Good was built as a multi-use, multi-functional space. Brenner and Schuler thought they could make this space available to other small business owners, offering them a more profession place to host dinners and sell their brand without committing to the often astronomical costs of renting their own places. “I thought it would be better to combine rather than compete,” Brenner said. “After talking to Jason, I realized he had similar aspirations of impacting the community and I feel lucky to have been here at the right time to be able to make some headway toward that goal.” Since establishing the Commissary Kitchen, the More Good team has been able to develop a community of producers, each bringing their own experiences along with them. Brenner says they’re all learning new things from one another, from the basics of how to start and run their own business, to figuring out how to market their products.
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Gold Brick
Drink More Good
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emphasize the difference in quality when something is grown within just miles of where it is served, or picked mere hours before consumption. Their food highlights the natural flavors found within ingredients. Both Stoller and Ortiz stressed the fact that growing the food is the challenging part. The farmer spends countless hours and puts all of his or her effort into cultivating it, the duty of a cook is not to tamper with its natural beauty, just respect the ingredient. Their food focuses on showcasing the quality of seasonal ingredients; anyone can make tasty food with enough salt, cream, and butter, it is exponentially more difficult to let the ingredients themselves shine. Frankie’s forte is connecting with purveyors; they form a symbiotic relationship where loyalty is exchanged for the best quality ingredients. He emphasized that the farmers provide the flavor so it is important to maintain a strong relationship with whomever is growing the produce. Until the actual day of the pop-up they were working only off of a skeleton menu. They had a general idea of what
June 17, 2016
the company to grow, which in turn, creates even more jobs. Nearing the end of our conversation, I asked the two men what advice they would give to those here on the CIA campus looking to potentially start their own businesses someday. “Don’t stop trying. Persistence is everything,” Schuler replied. “And make it selfless. Make your definition of success selfless because you wanting to be rich isn’t enough. It has to be greater than you.” “In that vein,” Brenner added, “if you make it selfless, then it doesn’t feel like work, but rather a lifestyle. If you can develop a company culture where people want to hang out with your company, then you can be successful. If you make it all about you, it’s just an ego game.” The two made it clear that what they do, and why they do it, is all about giving back. Sure, having a profitable company is important, but none of it matters if they aren’t making a greater difference in their community and impacting the world.
BY: Ian Gilchrist, AOS Baking & Pastry I’ve been told its pronounced ago! FIN-AHN-SEE-AY, or Finan- Unfortunately they do not keep seer. Either way financiers for more than a day, and will are delectable little golden begin to deteriorate after several cakes originating in France. hours. Its best to serve these on Traditionally, once the batter the same day. is finished, it is poured into a rectangular mold, with tapered Classic Financiers, from Francois edges and baked to a golden Payard and the New York Times brown. When finished, the (Amanda Hesser, 1999) Financier resembles a bar of 9 tablespoons butter, more for gold, and it’s quite possible that molds this isn’t a coincidence; Financier 1 1/4 cups powdered sugar was once a popular pastry served 3/4 cup almond flour or 1/2 cup in the financial district of Paris at whole unpeeled almonds the Paris Stock Exchange. The 1/4 cup bleached all-purpose pastry leapt across the pond in the flour mid-20th century and has been 1 tablespoon, plus 2 teaspoons featured in high-end pastry shops, cake flour hotels, and restaurants ever since. Pinch of salt Near Bourse, the financial 1 teaspoon baking powder district of Paris, on Rue St., the 4 egg whites, at room Financier was supposedly born temperature from the bakeshop of Lasne, a 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. local baker. Pierre Lacam, author of Memorial Historique de la Patisserie (1890), credits Lasne 1. Generously butter 12 2-by-4as the inventor. Lacam claims that inch rectangular financier molds Lasne dubbed the almond cakes (measured at the top). Refrigerate. “Financier” after the financiers 2. In a small pan over medium from the stock exchange that low heat, heat butter, occasionally would frequent his bakery. Since swirling, until it begins to brown, then, the little cake has been a about 5 minutes. Set aside. 3. Sift sugar over almond flour. favorite around the world. The New York Times’ Food (If using whole almonds, process & Wine section has featured with sugar in a food processor Financiers for decades. until mostly fine.) Add both American iterations tend to flours, salt and baking powder, be more experimental, both and gently whisk to combine. with molds and with flavoring. Add egg whites one at a time, Pastry chefs in the late 90’s, like whisking just to combine. Do Richard Leach (now Executive not overwork or the cakes will be Pastry Chef at Jean George) tough. worked with a studded mold to 3. Add vanilla to butter. In a produce triangular shapes. Jean steady stream, whisk butter into Francois Bonnet, now pastry flour mixture. Cover with plastic chef for Tumbador Chocolate, wrap, and refrigerate 3 hours. once dropped fresh berries and 4. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Set pistachios into his financier molds molds on a baking sheet. Spoon for added flavor and texture. mixture into a pastry bag that has These cakes have been a favorite a 1/4-inch round tip. Pipe mixture of the public for decades and their into molds, filling halfway. Bake popularity isn’t fading any time 18 to 20 minutes, until browned soon. Thomas Keller’s Bouchon and springy. Remove from features classic financiers, and oven, and cool 2 minutes before this year the New York Times’ unmolding. Cool completely on Cookbook is reviving Francois rack. Serve plain or dusted with Payard’s financier recipe from powdered sugar, or warm, with 1999. It’s a shame Lasne didn’t ice cream. think to claim royalties a century
Financiers from La Maison Berry. photo courtesy: www.lamaisonberry.com
6
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of June 17, 2016
June 17, 2016
Graduation
AOS Graduation Speaker: Markus Glocker BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Executive Chef and Partner: Bâtard
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Karlouise Orlanes, Hunter Conklin, Teresa Marcus, Mariana Leoni, Lindsey Bowe, Yara Gruberg, Emily Wilusz, Michael Burkard Back Row: Damon Narkiewicz, John Hilbert, Kevin J. Markey, Gary Inman, William McTeigue, Marcelino A. Ramos Cisneros, Gareth Gore, Christa-Marie O’Keiffe
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Seungju Jeong, Huihan Xu, Kamran Malik, Ricky Harris, Julianne Garber, Cat Gleason, Cassandra Jarrin Back Row: Dennis Park, Sam Gimlewicz, Michael Backer, Corey Nolan, Kyungkun Ra, Sara Mayer
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Markus Glocker is executive chef and partner of Bâtard, located in the Tribeca neighborhood of Lower Manhattan. The restaurant features a modern European menu that reflects Chef Glocker’s Austrian heritage and diverse culinary experiences. Chef Glocker has hospitality in his blood. Having grown up working in his family’s hotels, his appreciation for the culinary arts became a passion. After attending culinary school, he joined the renowned Restaurant Vier Jahreszeiten in Munich, Germany. Over several years, Chef Glocker excelled in top kitchens all over the world, including Restaurant Eckart Witzigmann in Berlin, Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, Restaurant Steirereck in Vienna, and Gordon Ramsay in London and New York (which received two Michelin stars during his tenure). His talent finds full expression at Bâtard, which he opened in partnership with restaurateur Drew Nieporent (of Nobu and Tribeca Grill) and managing
partner John Winterman (of Daniel and Gary Danko restaurants). Located in the iconic space that previously housed Nieporent’s Montrachet and Corton, Bâtard is a relaxed, intimate setting for outstanding cuisine. Fashioned with what New York Times critic Pete Wells calls “a sniper’s accuracy at the stove,” Chef Glocker’s dishes are both robust and refined, and include modern interpretations of Austrian traditions like schnitzel and tafelspitz. His Octopus Pastrami
is already a new classic. After its May 2014 debut, Bâtard earned a three-star rating from The New York Times, three stars from New York magazine, and a coveted Michelin star, among other stellar reviews. In 2015, Bâtard was named Best New Restaurant in America by the James Beard Foundation. That same year, Plate magazine named Chef Glocker one of its 30 Chefs to Watch. Previously, in 2010, he was recognized by StarChefs.com as one of New York City’s Rising Stars.
photo courtesy: www.localbozo.com
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Derek Polay, Taeho Kim, Huchan Shin, Lyric Speller-Vazquez, Loren DiPeri, Lana Lagomarisine, Giulia DeLima Back Row: Sorin Jeon, Kyungwook Cho, Sung Tae Kim, Joshua Helms, Donguk Kim, Kathleen DiPerna, Alessandro Vicari
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Nana Kim, Stephanie Kim, Hyunjin Kim, Alison McDonald, Nicole Zell, Karly Monta, Reid McCarthy, Adrian Stewart Back Row: Matthew Eaton, Deep Patel, Max Monti, Harrison Naden, Nicholas Van Huffel, Gena Marra, Maratta
Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Steven Osborn, Joseph Dubanos, Tatiana Tineo, Tiffany Verney, Christina Rivera, Gabby Watson, Emily Horta, Julissa Mercedes Back Row: Samantha Cieniewicz, Natalie Cohen, Sabrina Wooding, Carolyn Beder, Joshua Casanova, Katherine Merrick, Kirstyn Vitovich, Alison Sheck
7
The UPS Store
Low Shipping Rates Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
Hours of Operation Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
8
LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
Cont’d from front
tipping is often discriminatory: workers receive different levels of gratuity based on factors such as age, sex, race, hair color and even breast size, and the size of the gratuity is found to be only very weakly related to the quality of service.” Yes, folks, even breast size seems to affect patrons’ tipping habits, according to a study done by Professor Michael Lynn of Cornell and originally published in The Cornell Sun. The stereotypical situation of the young, attractive waitress pulling in far more tips is not only a cliché but, a true occurrence that indicates how biased patrons can be. An interesting, commonly known fact in both the service industry and the psychological research world is the power of a smiley face. If a server draws a smiley face on the bills, their tip average will increase across the board. By simply adding two short lines and one longer line that is meant to represent a human face, servers can increase their gains in a mathematically significant way. That is utter craziness. Again, this shows that until we can escape our own subconscious impulses, we humans really shouldn’t be determining the welfare of servers. Having a system of included gratuity may seem strange to our American mindsets, but it
is actually quite common (and effective) in many parts of the world. Most of Europe has gratuity included on the bill, and many Asian countries as well. In fact if you try and tip in some of these countries, it is interpreted as very rude. Despite the lack of motivation for tips, the level of service is still held to a high standard in these countries. No tipping hasn’t prevented the rest of the world from producing Michelin Star-level restaurants. Even here in the states we are starting to see industry leaders going the route of ‘gratuityincluded’ bills. Recently Danny Myers has made a splash in the fine-dining world by eliminating customer choice tipping from his restaurants. I doubt the quality of service in Danny Myers’ restaurants will dip as a result of this move. Tipping in a way, can almost be seen as an indication of inconsistent quality. The guest experience should be at the same level with each visit. When you are cooking in a restaurant setting, your goal is to recreate the same plate of food every single time at the same caliber. The service aspect of the experience should be no different. Servers should try and deliver the best possible experience to each and every guest. The way tipping fluctuates between restaurant price points
doesn’t make much sense logically. To a certain extent one can imagine that servers in finedining would make more money, but certainly this can’t be a simple exponential graph. The higher the bill the larger percentage of the tip. I understand that a server at a fine-dining restaurant might have higher standards and expectations than a server at a chain restaurant, but this can only go so far. Let’s just do a basic hypothetical. The server at a chain restaurant turns a $50 table and gets a $10 tip, if they are lucky. The server at the fine-dining restaurant turns a $500 table and gets a $100 tip. In my heart of hearts I find it hard to believe that the fine-dining server is doing $90 more work than the server at the more casual establishment. Yes I understand the more casual place is turning more tables, but still. The system seems broken, mathematically. Another upside to eliminating tipping is; that it helps level the playing field for wages between the FoH and BoH. The long standing trend has been that the people working in the kitchen are barely keeping up with their rent while the folks in the dining room have enough money to put away in savings. That’s why people like Mr. Carlson and Mr. G encourage their students to consider a career in the FoH, because they don’t want to see us suffering in a life
Tipping breakdowns based on level of food service. photo courtesy: www.wsj.com
where we can barely get by. But with some leaders beginning to see the benefit of eliminating tipping, we may have a chance of making wages for the BoH more sustainable. Given that the industry is allegedly suffering from a lack of cooks, a more tempting wage will likely help ease the pain of said labor shortage. While eliminating tipping across the entirety of the industry will likely take time, I think we will
see it becoming more common in the future which will serve as motivation to others who are more hesitant to take such actions. I feel that as potential future leaders in the industry, we ought to strive to make a life in the service industry more sustainable and realistic for people in entry- level positions. If we do not take steps to make these jobs more desirable, we will likely continue to suffer a shortage of talent.
Compost Bin at The Teaching Garden
BY: Crystal Tan, BPS Applied Food Studies
The old proverb “April showers bring May flowers” holds true this year as the Teaching Garden fills up with dainty white strawberries and blooming tomato plants. Under the May sunshine, there is something else new in our garden; a three compartment composting bin. The construction of the compost bin is one of the projects for the Applied Food Studies class with the goal of making our garden more sustainable. Constructing a compost bin will help cut down on the cost of the garden maintenance budget by producing our own compost. As project coordinator Jillian Vieracker says, “Composting is a fun way to show students how to reuse our food waste. Let’s get down to hippie building.” Much like these blossoming May flowers, the compost bin has also called for preparations in April, including creating the design, to foraging for materials. The compost bin design draft has faced many changes from an initial two-compartment system to the new three- compartment system. The three-compartment system will ensure a steadier supply of ready to use compost compared to a two-compartment
The new three compartment compost bin found in The Teaching Garden, built and maintained by The Applied Food Studies Project class. photo courtesy: Crystal Tan
system. The rotating compartment system will always have the first compartment holding compost ready to use, the second for compost in process and the third for fresh waste. We expect some sources for usable waste to include; spent grains from the Brewery @ CIA, and any coffee grounds from The Egg. The project in Applied Food Studies
is already beginning the process with our first batch of compost, starting with weeds pulled from The Teaching Garden. A first batch of compost is expected to be ready for use in early July. All the construction materials are foraged or donated so it is, in part, also a repurposing project to reduce waste. The main materials used for
the compost bins are wooden pallets locally sourced from the storeroom and the dumpsters on campus. Some of the pallets were even the same ones used to transport bricks for the construction of The Teaching Garden. After painting them with a base coat of weather-proof paint, the pallets were screwed together with repurposed
screws. Chicken wire is used to cover the partitions separating the compartments. The chicken wire is an important component of the construction, used to keep out animals and improve aeration for the decomposition process Working on this project, we have connected the theories learned in class to the labor of our hands. As a school of culinarians, we have a certain appreciation (some would even say admiration) for the manual work of our trade. The construction of the compost bin certainly reinforces this idea. Yet this experience has also given me a different look into the value of incorporating craftsmanship into our lives outside of the kitchen. Sweating, lifting, and working through problems together under the sun is part of what makes us proud of this project. Even the imperfections, those little unintentional splatters, seemed to strengthen our connection. We hope that students will also take interest in the composting initiative as our garden continues to bloom so beautifully under the summer sun. The next time you walk by the garden, be sure to check out our composting bin next to the shed.