September 29, 2017
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Volume 38, No. 13
Papillote
Tasting the Hudson Valley: A Sampling of Four Local Wineries BY: Catherine Elsaesser, Staff Writer
Heading into the fall season, the crisp weather and beautiful foliage of the Hudson Valley are the perfect setting for a wine tour. Through my hospitality education and time living in the Finger Lakes region of New York, I’ve grown to love learning about and tasting wines. When I started at he Culinary Institute of America, I was excited to taste the area’s famous wines. As described by the Hudson Valley Wine Country website, some of the country’s oldest vineyards can be found in this region, expanding over centuries to now showcase more than 20 operating wineries. A friend and I were able to take a day to tour of some of the wineries closest to campus. We were met with history, as well as knowledgeable, friendly winemakers and delicious wines to give us a taste of the Hudson Valley. Views from Cascade Mountain
photo courtesy: Catherine Elsaesser
Cascade Mountain Winery and Restaurant This winery was the first stop on our day of wine touring. Located about 45 minutes from CIA, this winery first opened in 1972 and only blends grapes, not growing any on the property itself. We were surprised to find that on the weekends the tastings are free and settled in to taste some of the wines, which mostly focused on dry or semi-dry styles. First, we tasted the Red Tail Chardonnay, which had a fruitier nose than a stereotypical California style Chardonnay. The Private Reserve White is a blend of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc which was balanced with fruit notes and acidity. The Seyval Blanc was described as “fruity dry” and was just that, possessing a good acidity that was food friendly. This wine has won three gold medals in past competitions. The Summertide is the winery’s most popular white, blending Au-
rora and Cayuga grapes to create a semi-dry wine with more body than the other wines we had tasted. Moving on into our tasting of red wines, the Harvest Rose was tawny red in color with light, red fruit flavors that I could imagine myself easily sipping on a summer day. The Coeur de Lion was described to us as a Pinot Noir with a peppery finish, and had a reduced, rice scent on the nose. The Private Reserve Red was a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with full body that I found to have cranberry notes on the nose and more oak on the palate than the previous wines. One of the reds we sampled was from Warwick Valley Winery near West Point called the Black Dirt Red, which was deep purple in color, had aromas of blackberry and dark fruits, and indeed did have elements of earth on the palate. The last wine
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Remembering Chef Rudolph Speckamp BY: April Johnson, Managing Editor
Throughout life, you cross paths with many people. Parents, siblings, friends, coworkers and teachers all come and go as you walk on your path of discovery. As you go along, you realize how there are a few special people who helped you grow, showed you selflessness, and created a bond with you that you will never forget. Chef Speckamp was that person for countless students and faculty at the CIA. From 2002 until 2017, Chef Speckamp poured his heart and soul into enriching many lives at the CIA with not only his strength in the kitchen but in his caring demeanor and love for teaching as well. Chef Speckamp was well-known in the culinary world for his many accomplishments. He received his Certified Master Chef title from the American Culinary Federation in 1988, won gold medals in the Culinary Olympics, opened two successful restaurants in
the Baltimore/Maryland area, and was voted “Chef of the Year” for six years in a row by Baltimore Magazine. With all these accolades, one would think that a person would have an ego or be very prideful. Chef Speckamp was the complete opposite. He was always humble and treated others with respect. I asked Chef DelleRose his memories of Chef Speckamp and he responded with, “I remember the first time I met Chef Speckamp, I was teaching Classical Banquets in K-17 and he was working in the continuing education department, he came in and introduced himself and then asked to borrow a gallon of stock. Since that time, he continued to stop by everyday just to say hello and check in on me. I was a relatively new instructor and I could use all the support I can get. As our relationship developed, Rudy quickly became my “go to guy” for advice. He was my walking edition of both the “Pro Chef” as well as “On Food and Cooking.”
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“Campus” Direct Entry Bachelor Program
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“Reviews” Cold Spring Depot Restaurant
He explained things in a humble way that was easy to understand and although I was, he never made me feel inferior. He was a mentor and a friend. Rudy was the kindest human being I have ever met. He was humble, gentle and kind, the textbook definition of a professional and a true gentleman. It was an honor and a privilege to work with him, the CIA is a better place because of him and the world is not the same without him. He will be missed by me and all the lives this man has gracefully touched.” I had the privilege of having Chef Speckamp for my fundamentals instructor. Chef Speckamp instructed my classmates and I with gentle strength. Every day we had class, you could tell how much he enjoyed teaching and gave us his all every day. If we made a mistake, Chef Speckamp made sure we knew how to fix our mistake so we
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CENTER SPREAD P 6-7
“Features” 26th Chili Cook-Off
Chef Rudolph Speckamp
photo courtesy: CIA
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“Graduation” Speaker Cheryl Henry BACK PAGE P 12
“Campus” Certified Master Chef Exam
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
September 29, 2017
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Mike Feist ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Bobier Kayleigh Chapmanbe Catherine Elsaesser Mike Feist Nathan Flintjer Val Goodrich Hailey Guerrasio April Johnson Shelly Loveland
From the Editor’s Desk
Sean Morrill Michael Wein
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Dear Fellow Students, Happy fall! I hope you are as excited about the season as I am. In this issue, you can embrace the fall by reading about a wonderful orchard nearby. Another great fall activity would be visiting the local wineries in the area. You can find a guide to these wineries on the cover. You can also read about the happenings around campus. The Chilli Cook - Off, the Week of Welcome, and the CMC/CMPC lecture. Read about the winners at the Cook Off in case you were too full to stick around for the results. The Week of Welcome was a week full fun events and we have a recap of all those events in this issue. On the back page, you can read about the CMC/CMPC lecture, a unique opportunity for students to hear the personal stories of chefs being certified. Our column, Culinary Clinic talks about the importance of getting a full nights sleep. In addition, the first Best of the Block photo is published! If you would like to be to be featured, use the hashtag #papilloteBoB on instagram. Finally, the entire La Papillote staff send our love and condolences to Chef Speckamp’s family. Chef was a integral part of the CIA and will be greatly missed by student and staff alike. Remember, meetings are the first Tuesday of each block at 9:15pm in the SRC conference room. All are welcome! Cheers. Alison Sprong
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Dan Salisbury, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief
Mike Feist Layout Editor
April Johnson Managing Editor
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The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
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September 29, 2017
Campus
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CIA Introduces “Direct Entry Bachelor” Program BY: Sean Morrill, Staff Writer
If you’re like many other students on campus, you might be a little bit confused by all the terms floating around these days to describe the new students. Whether you’ve heard “Integrated Bachelor’s Degree,” or “Direct Entry,” these two terms mean the same thing; that new students do not have to complete an associate’s degree before starting the courses that would typically only be offered in the third and fourth years of attendance here. This sounds confusing, so I sat down with the Dean of Academic Engagement and Administration, Carolyn Tragni to get a clearer idea of what these students would be doing, and what their curriculum would look like. When I asked Dean Tragni about the new program, she assured that it wasn’t a new program at all, just an opportunity to begin the bachelor’s program as a brand new student. She also explained that these courses still require prerequisites so that these students progress through the program in a logical way. As for what the curriculum looks like for these students, it is not changing. The curriculum is remaining exactly the same, just taken in a different order. Another question I, and many others, have been begging to ask is “ why did the CIA move in this direction?” The answer from Dean Tragni was quite simple, “students were asking for it.” She explained that students in focus groups had expressed interest in it for many reasons, and that these reasons will continue to shape the way that our degree programs are structured, but more on that later. Dean Tragni explained, “we’re trying to provide more opportunities to students so that they would have more flex-
ibility, while working toward their degree program. They’re working toward the same degree. I don’t think that in the courses, most students identify as a grade level, but rather as an engaged learner.” Flexibility is definitely something that students have been looking for at the CIA, and that this was a great move. While we as students respect the structure of the AOS program, the ability to choose elective courses while we move through it can only deepen our knowledge and appreciation for our main focus, food. One rumor that floating around campus and I’m sure many other students have heard is that the CIA has only offered this in order to be officially designat-
Incoming students have the option to join the direct entry bachelor’s program photo courtesy: Jeff Levine
ed as a university. Dean Tragni quickly dispelled this notion, and understood the confusion by saying, “there is no current intent to apply for a university status, but we are working from the perspective of a ‘Food University’, because we are the best. We like to use ‘Food University’ as a concept that drives us forward, not as an official designation from the state government. It’s solely about being the best.” In order to be the best, the CIA is rolling out even more options for students to start at the school. One of these options is a “degree completion” option. This option allows students with more than 30 credits from another college or university to earn a Bachelor of Professional Studies in Culinary Arts.
This is much like other college’s transfer programs. Also, the CIA has added a new option that begins next fall, a Bachelor of Science in Hospitality Management. This program will have a different course load and schedule than the other degree programs. Now, if you’re wondering, “can people still just get an Associate’s Degree?” The answer is absolutely. Students currently working through the “Direct Entry” program can even be conferred with the associate’s degree if they choose to be. For everyone who is reluctant to embrace these things, Dean Tragni offered this, “Things will not be changing. Our uniform will not be changing; our level of professionalism will not
Elmo, and typical parents’ behavior. His jokes were hysterical, and no one could stop laughing. Movie night was Friday, and all of the students sat down to watch Wonder Woman in the Ecolab Auditorium. The recent release of the movie gave this event a ton of attention. Saturday night was casino night, where all of the students dressed to the nines to play games in the Egg. Everything was decorated beautifully, and students took the opportunity to look great, act fancy, and have fun! The last night of the Week of Welcome was the Sunday night bowling party. The CIA took over a local bowling alley and held a huge party for all of the new students to help them unwind after their first week of classes. There was food, drinks, games, and a lot
of bowling! The Week of Welcome wouldn’t be complete without a huge thank-you to the staff in the Office of Campus and Student Life and the students of SPICE for making these events so fun and successful for all of the new students on campus.
be changing. We do not compromise on our core values. That’s what makes CIA students different, and that’s why employers want CIA students, that’s not going to change. “ After having a conversation with Dean Tragni, I feel relieved to know that this will still be the school that we all know and love. These students will continue to be held to the standards that I have been since I started in the fall of 2014. My final note to any student that is reading this is to embrace change, whether it’s here, or anywhere else.
New Students Greeted with CIA’s Week of Welcome BY: Hailey Guerrasio, Contributor
On Sunday, September 10th, the Culinary Institute of America welcomed one of the largest incoming classes in its history. The new freshman students had the opportunity to participate and make new friends with the CIA’s Week of Welcome, a whole week of games, shows, prizes and more. As a new freshman myself, I had the ability to go to the events and take part in the festivity. Here is a recap of the events, for those who missed out on all of the fun. To kick off the week, there was a performance by Robert Channing, the mind-reading hypnotist. He stunned the crowd with his ability to tell what was being held over his head, no matter how strange the object. He even read the minds of the crowd, just by touching index cards with student’s stories written on them.
He was a great start to the week, but that was just the beginning. Tuesday was “bring your own bowl night” at Hudson Hall, where students were given grilled cheese, pretzel bites, and buffalo cauliflower bites. The line was wrapped around the whole building, but that didn’t stop everyone from having a great time. We all enjoyed a wonderful snack and spent time together in the Renaissance Lounge. On Wednesday night, the school held the big super bingo game in the Egg. Students showed up to play bingo and win prizes. The Egg was full by the time it started and the party went on until almost 11 pm! Thursday night was the second performance of the week. Comedian Eric O’Shea entertained his audience with his hilarious impressions of little children,
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cont’d from Tasting the Hud- and the other in steel. The grapes are sourced from Long Island, the son Valley we sampled was Cascade Mountain’s Heavenly Daze, which was developed by a chef from the CIA that is used in many cooking applications. It had high residual sugar, with toasted aromas on the nose and caramel and brown sugar notes. Millbrook Vineyards and Winery The second winery we visited was Millbrook Vineyards and Winery. This 32-year-old winery, which was a dairy farm originally, encompasses 138 acres, of which 40 are now used to grow grapes. The vineyard produces 15,000 cases of wine a year, aims for 22 brix for a 13% alcohol content in its wines, and has a range of wines such as white wines fermented in steel for five months up to reds aged for 16-18 months. There is the tasting room and store on the ground level, a beautiful event space upstairs, and a patio area for snacks and glasses of wines to be enjoyed overlooking the view of the vines. We chose the tour of the property that included a portfolio tasting for $15. Our guide was very knowledgeable about wine, and she even added additional wines to our tasting for the day. The winery was lively with 40th birthday celebration dressed in 70s era costumes as well as other groups and couples tasting wine on the rainy weekend afternoon. The tasting began with the 2016 Hunt Country White, a blend of Riesling, Traminette, Tocai Friulano and Pinot Grigio that is the third best seller of the winery. It was light straw in color and had a good level of acidity and mineral qualities. The 2016 Tocai Friulano Proprietor’s Special Reserve, receiving 87 points from Wine Enthusiast, had notes of citrus and green apple on the nose and a medium body that I found particularly delicious. The 2015 Chardonnay is the number one seller for the winery and spends half of the production time in oak
cont’d from Remembering Chef Speckamp so we wouldn’t make the same mistake again. He gave us confidence by reminding us we were in control while cooking by telling us, “as a chef the two things you control are time and temperature.” Chef Speckamp went out of his way to show us he cared. After we were finished with fundamentals, he would still check in on my class and see how we were doing. When we were in Modern Banquets he would walk past with a watchful eye while we were prepping for the buffet, and on our first day of A la Carte, he was one of our first customers. He would
Finger Lakes and the vineyard itself and was very buttery on the palate. Moving into reds, the 2016 Hunt Country Rose is produced 80% in steel and 20% in oak and blended, utilizing both red and white grapes. The strawberry notes and strong fruity finish of this wine were pleasant. The Hunt Country Red is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot that was slightly smoky and peppery but was not overbearing. The 2015 Merlot spends six months in American Oak and the same amount of time in French and had jammy fruit flavors and more tannins. The 2013 Villa Pillo Syrah from Tuscany was fuller in body and slightly smoky. Finally, the Pebble Ridge Vineyards Sangiovese from California was a little young but possessed nice red fruit flavors. Clinton Vineyards This winery only grows Seyval Blanc, and sources all other grapes from New York state and bottles on premises. Clinton offers different levels of tastings, ranging from $10-18. I chose the Dutchess tasting, and my friend chose the Romantic. For the Dutchess tasting, it included 2014 Victory White Seyval Blanc, the 2015 Riesling, the 2014 Pinot Noir, and the 2015 Twilight Rose. The Victory White had musty peach notes and stone fruit that were pleasurable on the palate. The Riesling is sourced from the Finger Lakes and had the bright acidity and stone fruit of the region I am so fond of. The Pinot Noir is aged in French Oak and that was present on the nose. The Twilight Rose was a blend of Syrah and Seyval Blanc with a light body and peppery bite that was still approachable. The Romantic tasting included the Romance, Desire and Cassis dessert wines. The Cassis was full of fruit flavor and is the most awarded of the wines. The Desire was a delicious blackberry dessert wine, and the Romance was a late harvest
give us feedback on what he saw and would tell us what to do to be better the next day. He went above and beyond for us students, and was the perfect example of how a chef should be. Even though Chef Speckamp is gone, his legacy is still very much alive. We as fellow students and faculty can continue to live out the principles he taught us. Always stay humble, be respectful of others, always go above and beyond, and approach food by cooking with everything you’ve got. We are the future of the hospitality industry and as we continue down this path called life, let us not forget the people who helped us get to where we
Vineyard views photo courtesy: Catherine Elsaesser
Seyval Blanc that was still bright but rich with apricot flavor and was described as an alternative to Sauternes. The Victory White had musty peach notes and stone fruit that were pleasurable on the palate. The Riesling is sourced from the Finger Lakes and had the bright acidity and stone fruit of the region I am so fond of. The Pinot Noir is aged in French Oak and that was present on the nose. The Twilight Rose was a blend of Syrah and Seyval Blanc with a light body and peppery bite that was still approachable. The Romantic tasting included the Romance, Desire and Cassis dessert wines. The Cassis was full of fruit flavor and is the most awarded of the wines. The Desire was a delicious blackberry dessert wine, and the Romance was a late harvest Seyval Blanc that was still bright but rich with apricot flavor and was described as an alternative to Sauternes. Tousey Winery The final stop on our wine tour, Tousey Winery was
are today. Chef Speckamp was that person for many of us, and we will keep his legacy alive for years to come with every dish we make at the CIA.
a hidden gem. The unassuming building along Route 9 in Clermont housed a modern, trendy tasting room with Edison bulbs, a light up sign showcasing the winery’s name, exposed brick, and communal tables. The owners Kimberly and Ben Peacock are very involved in every small detail of their family owned and operated winery, which encompasses 15 acres, with some land located in the Millbrook area, and that focuses on dry style wines with exception of the dessert wines. The wines are 95% estate bottled, and all grapes are sourced within New York state. The tasting began with the Queen of Clermont, the top seller for the winery which blends Riesling, Cayuga and Traminette grapes. The sweetness of the wine comes out in a warmer tasting temperature, and notes of green apple and lychee delight the palate while still remaining crisp and light in body. The Rebellion Rose is a Pinot Noir and Merlot blend that was dry and light in body that I found to be easily sippable. Hudson Valley Magazine recently nominated the winery for Best
Rose, and it is apparent why. The Riot red is a Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend with a good amount of fruit on the nose and a bit sharper finish that is considered the house red of the winery and is very food friendly. The Cabernet Franc had more oak notes on the attack but a soft finish and was awarded the Best of the Hudson Valley. The winery avoids using heavy oaks on its wines to preserve the fruit characteristics. For a sweet finish to the tasting, we sampled the Cassis and Bloome dessert wines. The grandfather’s local raw honey is added to the Cassis, and the floral aroma was apparent in the glass. This wine is what the winery was originally known for, and there are four varieties of black currants grown on three acres of the property. The final product results in a wine with 20% alcohol and a deliciously ripe and sweet but still tart flavor. The Bloome is a white port style wine that was floral and light on the palate with balanced sweetness.
ON CAMPUS
September 29, 2017
Features
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Apples and Pumpkins Take Over the Hudson Valley BY: Michael Wein, Contributor
Fall is in full swing. Temperatures are dropping, nights are colder, leaves floating to the ground. Halloween and Thanksgiving just around the bend, this season has it all. Trees changing into a whirlwind of colors we romanticize every year. Of course, the fall trends are also in full swing, pumpkin spice is everywhere and even here at the Culinary Institute of America, The Egg offers a nice cup of apple cider. So grab a fluffy sweater and a scarf, as we delve into the taste and experiences of fall. The quintessential essence of fall is the apple. New York produces roughly 29.5 million bushels of apples per year and one bushel is 40 lbs of apples. That’s 88.5 million gallons of cider a year or 145 million gallons of apple sauce. What else is there to this classic fruit other than apple sauce, cider and grandmas Dutch apple pie? To find out, I made the two-hour voyage back home to investigate the full potential of the classic fall snack. What I found blew my conceptions of what an apple could be. In the tiny town of Sharon Springs, New York, there is a farm gift shop hybrid of sorts known as Sunnycrest Orchards. Established in 1973 out of an old garage, and now run by siblings Tim Schilde and Laurie Schmit, the dynamic duo have shattered my conceptions on what apple cider vinegar is. In twenty acres of apples that are far too small and ugly to be used for your standard grocery lies their fascinating and longlived tradition of vinegar making. Usual uses for apple cider vinegar include a home remedy for colds, blood pressure, arthritic pain and a mean salad topping, but Laurie informed me of a drink called the Switchel. With 6 oz. of cold seltzer or water and a tablespoon of vinegar, you get a refreshing beverage known as the Switchel. I learned it was a mainstay for farmers as a drink for those who wanted refreshment with a bite and didn’t cost them too much. The Switchel is an absolute delight with some Perrier and Laurie’s Farmgirl brand honey blueberry cider vinegar. Good wasn’t good enough for Laurie who, four years ago, added infusions like the blueberry honey. She made it by using thirty pounds of blueberries and real raw honey. The process takes approximately two years instead of a rushed four weeks like some name brands. This is because they use no water so you get the full apple goodness. With a little help from “the mother” which is a mass of proteins, enzymes and happy bacteria that love to help your digestion. Of course, they have many more, but you can check out all her other fantastic flavors on
their main website as there’s too many to recount here. Sunnycrest also works with six other farms to help sell local produce and get fresh herbs and spices they use for their vinegars that they may not be able to grow in their very own greenhouse. Laurie also informed me this season has been a rough one, with so much rain and little dry time, apples have accumulated a lot of mildew this year. In some cases, the grounds are so wet that workers can’t get to the apples. Luckily mildew is a mostly cosmetic problem, cut the bad stuff, out press the apples and you’re ready to make cider vinegar. They also showed us their apple cider making machine where we got to sample some freshly made donuts. We left with smiles and a small bottle of blueberry honey vinegar. I went back later and left with an even bigger bottle of this next level vinegar. If you’re interested in Farmgirl vinegar you can buy whole gift packages at https://www.sunnycrestorchards.com. Another fall classic is undoubtedly pumpkin. It’s interesting that we hold pumpkin flavor in such high regard, seeing as a pumpkin by itself is actually rather bland and bitter. What we really love is that aromatic symphony used in pumpkin pies. You know them as ginger, cloves, allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon that makes the pumpkin pie what it is. How did it end up in a latte? It most likely began when McCormick began manufacturing “Pumpkin Pie Spice” in the 1950s which would contain the classic ratio of herbs and spice mentioned previously. Suddenly
Apples are in season all over the Hudson Valley photo courtesy: Kelsey Lynch
you went from five containers for making pumpkin spice to one. If you wanted a little bit of fall kick in your muffins put in a teaspoon or two. You could sprinkle some on your whipped cream that’s floating on a mug of cocoa without measuring a thing. Of course, it didn’t stop there, McCormick developed a pumpkin spice extract, something I’ve used in my own pies. Finally, in 2003 it happened, the juggernaut, the undisputed king of autumn beverages made its debut. The Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Latte was released to the masses. Since then two hundred million pumpkin spice lattes and counting have been sold. That’s enough to give
everyone in the U.K. three lattes. However, not all is well in pumpkin land. This year Starbucks has increased prices of their lattes, anywhere from ten to thirty cents. The good news is this isn’t happening at all eight thousand locations but in large cities or more densely populated areas, it’s more likely to happen. The jury is also still out on whether or not pumpkin purée is used seeing as the flavoring always comes in a thick “pumpkin spice syrup” if that wasn’t enticing than you wouldn’t appreciate the official term “pumpkin sauce” coined by Starbucks official website. Be it a fruit pie, a flavored latte or any flavor that comes with fall is a doubtless
smash hit. That freshly baked, snuggly smell, and warm delight or crisp crunch of an apple is a flavor sensation that has truly rocked the world. For these and many other reasons, the flavor of fall is one of my absolute favorites.
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Features
Culinary Clinic: Sleeping in the Culinary World BY: Kayleigh Chapmanbe, Columnist
The Culinary Institute of America has many exciting things for students going on throughout the week, and many times late at night. This will happen post-graduation too, being invited to parties or just hanging out with friends late at night. The offer will be tempting but, is staying up late while working in this physically demanding industry a wise choice? This school is a very high-stress environment. We make time to do things like homework, working out, hanging with friends, eating, relaxing, clubs, etc. and sometimes sleep falls to the wayside. Students may think that staying up late may not affect them, but the next day you will regret it and the world will seem to be in slow motion. According to the National Sleep Foundation, young adults ages 18 - 25 should get 7 - 9 hours a sleep a night. It may be hard to “waste” that amount of time sleeping when you could be doing other things, such as homework that is due the next day. Keeping a calendar to slot out a time of the day for specific things may help give you time to wind down for the night. Being on your electronics before you go to sleep can also have a big impact on how you feel in the morning. In
addition to giving yourself a good amount of sleep everyday, you should eat a well-balanced breakfast . A great meal would be with a lot of protein, because it takes your body a lot longer to break down giving you energy throughout the day, and not just a small spirt of energy for a short amount of time. Being tired in the kitchen isn’t just putting stress on our bodies, but putting ourselves in immediate danger. Chefs are in a profession with some very dangerous equipment, very sharp knives and hot pans. I If you are lucky enough to walk out of a kitchen with no sleep with out a scratch, nevertheless your production would be scary bad. So, getting enough sleep at night will help you focus in the kitchen keeping yourself (and others) safe and healthy. While being tired may be dangerous in the sense of the equipment we use, it also is for the mistakes we make. When your brain is tired you tend to forget things that you usually wouldn’t. This could cause customers or staff to become very ill or hurt, and land your facility in a lot of trouble. The main things to know in the kitchen to keep food safe is time and temperature, cross-contamination, clean-
When the sunsets at CIA, it is time to go to bed. photo courtesy: Cameron Schneider
ing, and sanitation. While in the kitchen you need to be on your “A game” to make sure the food you make is completely safe to be served. Imagine forgetting to temp the chicken before serving it to your customer: you couldn’t possibly know if you served raw chicken or not. Even cross-contamination is a big issue. You may have checked your temps and everything was perfect, but you could easily forget to switch your cutting board that you used
to prep the raw chicken. While the food could be cooked perfectly, you could place the cooked chicken right on top of all the raw chicken’s juices (and bacteria), possibly spreading salmonella. Pulling all-nighters is a sport in college life. It may be fun in the moment, but slipping grades and loss of motivation is not worth it.
Restaurant FOR SALE THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL OF
OUR LADY OF THE WAY (LA MADONNA DELLA STRADA)
HOLY MASS
SUNDAYS 10:00AM in the Extraordinary Form (1962, Latin) & NOON in the Ordinary Form (1970, English). HOLY DAYS NOON in the Ordinary Form. CHAPLAIN: FATHER MARC OLIVER chaplainua@gmail.com 845/594-9111
Calico Restaurant & Patisserie located in the heart of Historic Rhinebeck, NY village. Restaurant and pastry shop owned and operated by CIA graduate for 23+ years. Long term very favorable lease. Boutique restaurant and pastry shop has Two kitchens- 1) Full ala carte 2) Air conditioned pastry kitchen with sheeter. Excellent turn key opportunity for Chef and Pastry Chef team. Please contact Anthony Balassone (845)876-2749
September 29, 2017
Best of the Block Winner
Features
7
Congratulations to @nerdiestgirl for winning this issue’s Best of Block contest! This carrot cake looks almost too perfect to eat. Do you want to be featured in the next issue of La Papillote? Show us your best photos on Instagram using the hashtag #papilloteBoB. One winner will be chosen every issue to be published!
26th Annual Chili Cook-Off Concludes BY: Nathan Flintjer, CIA Staff Contributor
On September 24th, 2017 the 26th Annual Chili Cook-Off was held on The Athletic Field. This year the event featured a maxed out roster with 15 Teams Competing to make the best Chili around! With the help of Chef McCue, teams were coached to make the most of their ingredients and add their own flare to their dishes! In addition to classic takes on Chili, we were also fortunate enough this year to feature a Green and Vegan Chili which were out of this world! In addition to the Chili Cook-Off a “Fall Fest” took place which featured some of your favorite Student Clubs and Organizations! We had some amazing cookies from The Anime Club, some awesome “Pumpkin Bowling” hosted by The Young Conservatives, and even some Manna restoring Elixirs from The Table Top Gaming Club! Fall Fest was a smash success so keep an eye out for even more amazing programs presented by CIA Clubs coming up in the very near future!
But... back to The Chili CookOff... Over 700 people from both the neighboring towns and campus arrived for the event and withstood the heat from both the Sun... and the Chili! All of the teams had a blast and put all of their energy into making a delicious Chili; but as you know, a winner has to be chosen. After a long and tasty process, the Judges and People decided who made the best chili in town! The following teams were awarded: 1st Place: Bomba Corea’s “Korean Style Chili” 2nd: Mole Madre’s “Mother Mole” 3rd: South of the Thai Border’s “Texas Thai Chili” People’s Choice: Mole Madre
Showmanship: Scooby Doo and their “Ghost Pepper Chili” Professionalism: C.H.E.W. Club
Events like this would be IMPOSSIBLE without some amazing support! The Chili Committee would like to extend our deepest gratitude to Snake River Farms for their amazing and delicious donation of all of the Beef and Pork used in the Chili Dishes. The Committee would also like to extend their gratitude to Tuxton China Inc. for their generous donation of the Chili Bowl GiveA-Way and to the beautiful bowls used to display the Chili Dishes to the judges. Also, a special thanks to Pepsi Co. for their generosity in supplying drinks to help cool down the crowd! The Chili Committee would also like to thank all of the students and staff at The Culinary Institute who made this event possible! Without the support of The Office of Campus Life, RAs, Orientation Leaders, SPICE, Student Government, SAAC, Athletics, Recreation, and Wellness, The Storeroom, The EGG, Campus Safety, and Grounds and Facilities working in front and
behind the scenes events of such a magnitude would fall apart! Keep your eyes open for upcoming Cook-Offs... and even a BAKE-OFF in the near future!
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LA PAPILLOTE
Reviews
A Snowy Night at Cold Spring Depot BY: Val Goodrich, Reviewer
Think of the snowiest evening you have ever experienced. The sun starts to set at 5 pm. So much snow is lining the streets that the snow plows can’t get to it all fast enough. This was the setting of one night last year that my best friend and I decided to try out Cold Spring Depot Restaurant. After a treacherous 40-minute drive in fresh, thick snow, we finally reached the small town of Cold Spring, New York. The town is made up of colonialstyle houses that, through time, transformed into small shops and boutiques. Although everything was closed, the street lamps dimly lit up the snowy buildings and sidewalks, just enough for us to see. We parked in front of the restaurant at 1 Depot Square Street and trailed our way inside. The restaurant’s lights were set low, which made the whole place have a warm gold color. Twinkling lights were strung aesthetically throughout. Dark wood paved the floor, and soft yellows and reds were painted on the walls. Craft beers were present in the bar area, and there was even a patio out back for the warm days.
Today was not one of those days. As we were shown our table, we walked past a white fireplace that was decorated with poinsettias and evergreen branches. We walked up a small set of stairs to the lofted area, and were seated in a cozy corner with a softly glowing candle placed in the middle. Our waitress was outgoing and kind, giving us numerous recommendations from the menu and repeatedly coming back throughout the evening to check on us. She was very attentive to our needs as well, and she set us up with two hot chocolates to warm us back up. The menu is slightly upscale American comfort food. Their appetizers are enough alone to make the drive out here. One appetizer highlights was the buffalo chili calamari with celery, carrots, and bleu cheese creme fraiche. For a lighter option, the salmon tartare is served with quinoa, avocado relish, and charred shishito peppers. The restaurant also offers an array of fresh salads. A fan favorite is the pear salad, served on a bed of arugula, and topped with bleu cheese, cranberries, walnuts, red onions, and all tossed in a truffle
Cold Spring Depot photo courtesy: Jackson Summers, Organic Hudson Valley
honey vinaigrette. The steak and soba noodle salad is popular too. Mixed greens are the base, with toppings consisting of cilantro, carrots, onions, peppers, crispy wontons, and a toasted sesame soy vinaigrette to top it all off. “Hand Helds” on the menu is their sandwich galore, housing everything from a wide variety of craft burgers, chicken sandwiches, and their lobster BLT. The customer even has the
option to switch out the meat for a garden burger. All of this is served with thick-cut fries, and truffle fries are available as a substitution for $2 extra. I ordered the garden vegetable burger, and it was phenomenal. I loved that I could actually see which vegetables were in the burger and it was nice and juicy, too. The regular burger fixin’s were placed on top as per my request, along with a soft bun.
I highly recommend bringing a date here, a group of friends, or your best friend when you both just need to get away from it all for awhile. We all need that from time to time. Just don’t drive in a blizzard like we did.
Experience Tea at the Water Oracle BY: Sarah Bobier, Staff Writer
Aspiring chefs deal with many stressful situations on a daily basis. It can be hard to find ways to manage and control stress levels, especially when you are first experiencing the industry. If this pertains to you, The Water Oracle could be the solution on how to deal with the upsets of everyday life and our industry. The Water Oracle’s owner Stacey Held’s mission is more than just to provide quality tea, on her website she explains, “I am here to help people incorporate or maintain wellness in their life whether that be through the physical world with tea or through the spiritual world with tarot or other spiritual mediums. Life is about balance and I’m here to help you maintain yours.” The Water Oracle Mystical Teas & Provisions is a locally-owned tea shop in Rhinebeck, New York, offering a wide variety of teas from around the world. What sets this tea shop apart from others is not only their unique blends of tea but also the plethora of wellness classes and workshops available. Whether you’re looking to become a more experienced taster or just want to understand the dynamic of tea, this store has got you covered. Just like wine, becoming an ex-
perienced tea taster could benefit chef in the industry and help chefs learn about the layering and development of flavors. Located on their website, thewateroracle. com you can find lists of schedules and events pertaining to spirituality and basic tea guide classes. Also, if you don’t have a car on campus to visit, the store can ship all of your favorite teas and tea cleanses. It doesn’t stop there, the shop owner conducts tarot readings and reiki, stated on their website you can “learn the art of this Japanese energy healing modality this spring with shop owner, Stacey Held and friends. Reiki is a wonderful tool to add to your arsenal of natural healing. An incredibly easy and effective treatment for stress reduction and anxiety that also helps promote the body’s natural healing process.” So whether you’re looking for something to do or want to expand your horizons physically and mentally, the Water Oracle could be a satisfactory place for you. Also, with the holidays coming up, keep in mind the tea shop sells local handcrafted goods such as mugs and jewelry that make for great gifts and supports our local economy. The shop is open Monday- Friday with the exception of Tuesday from 11:00 am to 5:00 pm and Saturday and
Sunday from 10:30 am to 6:00 pm. For more information, you can contact the shop online or by phone at 845-876-TEAS (8327).
Win a Crooked Brook Chef Coat! All Crooked Brook chef jackets are made to order in the USA, however, we have various styles and sizes that were not made according to the customer’s specifications,or have slight imperfections. These are the men’s and women’s chef coats that will be offered as prizes for giveaways. Crooked Brook chef jacket prices start at $85 and go up to well over $200, and with some of them, there is absolutely nothing wrong other than it is not what the customer ordered. For example; a size 16 chef jacket was made instead of a size 6, or the pocket placement is on the left chest instead of the left shoulder sleeve or a red jacket with black piping was made instead of a black jacket with red piping. While offering specific sized chef coats may appear to be a negative, it is not much of an issue since each giveaway will feature a different size and style and if you win and it is not your size, you can always give it as a gift or barter. Like and follow us on Facebook for current chef jacket giveaways or visit us at crookedbrook.com.
September 29, 2017
Entertainment
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of September 29, 2017 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Monica Chung, Brandon Rene Aguilar, Anissa Wade, Shradha Katyal Back Row: Matthew Wheelock, Joshua Holzman, William Brady Helms, Jonathan Kaupa, Zhackery Callicott, Tania Nicopoulos, James Peloza
Culinary Arts Group #2 Front Row: Danielle Lauren Ceruzzi, Sara Williams, Jisun Choi, Luccia Yamada Back Row: Andrew Fasulo, HyeEun Jang, Daniel Lieberman, Byeong Kyu Park, Junhan Park, Makena Wininger
Culinary Arts Group #3 Front Row: Teahwan Lim, Yoojung Sili, Junhyung Kim Back Row: Soroogh Golbabice, Cherilyn Polito, Daniel Bettencount, Josh Kessler
Baking & Pastry Group #4 Front Row: Madison Temme, Natalie Rivera Rivera, Kiara Jones, Sigourney Burchette, Mary Grace Solidum, Dawon Kim, Thomas Stillwell Back Row: Britney Moyer, Ana Carvalho, Samara PeĂąa, Bonni Pacheco, Megan Campion
September 29, 2017
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Cheryl Henry President and COO, Ruth’s Hospitality Group, Inc.
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Cheryl Henry serves as president and chief operating officer of Ruth’s Hospitality Group, Inc. (RHGI), which owns restaurant brands Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Mitchell’s Fish Market, Mitchell’s Steakhouse, Columbus Fish Market, and Cameron’s Steakhouse. In her position, she leads the company’s operations, human resources, information technology, real estate and development, and brand marketing departments. Prior to this appointment, Ms. Henry held other leadership positions within the company, including senior vice president and chief brand officer, as well as chief business development officer, where she was responsible for a multi-milliondollar capital investment program and unit growth for all RHGI brands. Before joining RHGI, Ms. Henry was the chief of staff for the mayor of Orlando, FL, where she provided strategy and counsel on policy issues regard-
ing growth and development, budget, and finance. She led the senior strategy team advising the mayor and city on the financing and development of the $1.2 billion performing arts center, arena, and stadium projects in downtown Orlando. Previously, Ms. Henry was vice president of marketing communication for Curley & Pynn, an MS&L Global Network Affiliate firm in Orlando. There she represented clients in the hospitality and travel and tourism industries, including Universal Orlando Parks and Resorts. In her early career, she held senior-level marketing and strategic planning positions for both government and private entities, including Horry County government, Brookgreen Gardens, and NBA City Restaurant Group. She is a member of The Society of Fellows for The Culinary Institute of America and the board of directors for the Center of Creative Leadership.
Ms. Henry previously served on the board of directors of the Dr. Phillips Center for the Performing Arts and the Central Florida Sports Commission, and cochaired the Mayor’s Community Venues Oversight Board. She was featured in the Forbes article “An Amazing Lesson in Women’s Entrepreneurship: Ruth’s Chris Steak House” in 2012, and in 2008 was named one of the Women Who Mean Business Up-andComer by the Orlando Business Journal and Orlando Regional Healthcare. Ms. Henry received her bachelor of arts degree from the University of Massachusetts and her master of business administration with honors from the Crummer School of Business at Rollins College in Orlando.
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
The UPS Store
Low Shipping Rates Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
Hours of Operation Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
The Toughest Test a Chef Can Take BY: Michael Feist, Layout Editor
of one of: healthy baking, artistic baking, the mystery basket, classical tortes, plated deserts, chocolates and petit fours, international pastries, and the grand buffet. The chefs need at least a grade of 70 each day, based upon kitchen skills, plating, and taste. The tips – becoming a Master Chef requires strong culinary fundamentals; the CIA’s AOS degrees are the curriculum
for earning that goal, but you have to take it to the next level and the next level beyond that. Test anxiety, lack of regular practice, and lack of interaction with or learning from successful CMCs are among the worst mistakes a candidate could make. President Ryan gave a few last words of advice, to always be humble, power through, and never stop listening to feedback.
Students filled Danny K Theatre for the CMC/CMPC program photo courtesy: Mike Feist
Eight days straight. One hundred and thirty hours. And barely anyone ever passes. We’re talking about the Certified Master Chef exams, a rigourous practical test of top chefs’ skills to make them join the elite. There are only 67 Certified Master Chefs (CMCs) and 11 Certified Master Pastry Chefs (CMPCs) in the world, as awarded by the American Culinary Federation. Five of them joined us on September 19th in the program The Journey to Certified Master Chef and Master Baker to tell the crowd how they made it, and how students could make it to that level as well. President Dr. Tim Ryan joined other CMCs: Provost Mark Erickson, Brad Barnes (Director of CIA Consulting), and Dr. Victor Gielisse (Managing Director of CIA Consulting), as well as Certified Master Baker Tom Vaccaro (Dean of Baking and Pastry Arts). The room was packed; over 80 students attended, leaving standing room only. Each of the speakers shared their personal experiences from the tests and tips for how to prepare for one. President Ryan began by giving us all a history lesson: Master Chefs have existed since Medieval Europe with the guild system. A master would train a young apprentice, often with years of indentured servitude. Yet not every master was qualified for this sort of training, so the trade guilds in Europe began designating masters, followed by the governments designating them. Apprenticeships and working your way up through the industry was the common practice from then on. The CIA, founded in 1946, gradually became one of the largest and most influential culinary schools in the world. The model of formal culinary education then spread to the European nations, including Germany, Switzerland, and France. The American Culinary Federation came around in 1929, and originally focused on the International Exhibition of Culinary Art (the Culinary Olym-
pics). Ryan and Erickson learned about the Olympics as CIA students and later joined. Ryan captained the ACF’s team in 1988, when they won the competition’s World Championship. Ryan later became President of the AFC as well. In 1981, after the ACF’s Team USA wanted America to have designated Master Chefs like other countries, the ACF created the Certified Master Chef designation. It became the highest standard, the most rigourous and difficult to achieve, compared to all alike designations in any other country. Ryan explained that the U.S. began by copying Germany, Switzerland, and France, though those countries ended up emulating what the ACF was doing here. The CIA founded the Certified Master Chef examination. It was created at the school and hosted by chef-instructors in our faculty. The exams were run at our school just until 2014, though the ACF has found that they are held best at our school. Therefore the CMC exam is once again returning to the CIA. Since 1981, the test has always been the most rigourous a chef could take. President Ryan called it “the ultimate version of Chopped”, where it takes an incredible amount of talent, and it’s nothing you can ever really study for. The speakers recommended brushing up on some techniques and cooking constantly, but they clarified that either you are up to the level of experience and skill required, or you are not. The tests have become more practical, however. The first tests would attempt to break you down – give you impossible menus or tasks. By the time Tim Ryan took the test in 1985, he was tasked to make Darne De Saumon à Chambord, among other recipes. The dish: a boneless steak (darne) of salmon, a fish espagnole sauce made into a wine-based Sauce Genevoise (which Ryan claims nobody’s made since Escoffier), fluted mushrooms, tourneed truffles, two kinds of quenelle
dumplings, trussed crayfish, fritters made with roe (the original recipe would use milt, the spermfilled reproductive gland of a fish!), and more. Ryan explained that the above was all for just that one dish of several required that day. Luckily for aspiring chefs, the ACF doesn’t ask for work like that anymore. Other speakers focused on the CMPC and CMB exams, for those in the baking and pastry arts. Like the CMC and CMPC exams, the CMBs were first held at the CIA, but are issued by the Retail Bakers of America. The test also ended up moving to other locations due to people suspecting the CIA was fixing the results, however the test will return here next autumn. The CMB there, Dean Tom Vaccaro, mentioned that the test is two days long, with a long list of products to be made to exacting specifications, with products never allowed more than 5 grams off from the specifications. He said it takes perfection in your field, and he’s a good example of that. Vaccaro joined the CIA at a young age, competing and earning gold at the Culinary Olympics when he was 20, and winning the grand prize of the New York Food Show a year later. The Certified Master Pastry Chef exam is longer – eight days, also with an emphasis on precision over the art and the craft of baking and pastry. Both this exam and the CMC requires the candidate to earn the ACF’s executive certification, and to submit letters of recommendation from current CMCs or CMPCs. The exams also involve prerequisite courses on food safety, cost control, management, and wine. CMC exams have each day for one of the following: healthy cooking, buffet catering, classical cuisine, freestyle cooking, global cuisines, baking and pastry, European cuisines, and the “market basket”, a mystery basket for candidates to develop five courses from. CMPC exams involve the each day consisting
Provost Erickson talking with President Metz during Erickson’s 1985 CMC exam photo courtesy: Mark Erickson
ACF’s 1988 Culinary Olympics team. Metz (center), President Ryan (to his right), and Provost Erickson (far right) photo courtesy: Mark Erickson
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