be INSPIRED by Herzegovina
Introduction 4 An inspiring region Goran Karanović
Index
Mostar 6 The heart of the region with great potentials Ozren Kebo Herzegovina as your destination and Lasta Travel Mostar 11 Let us inspire you Zlatko Papac The northern door of Herzegovina 12 The Rakitnica canyon, Boračko lake, Konjic, Prozor-Rama Ahmed Burić Western Herzegovina 16 Kravica Waterfalls, Široki Brijeg, Ljubuški, Međugorje shrine Dragan Marijanović Eastern Herzegovina 20 Trebinje, Stolac, Trvrdoš Monastery, Vjetrenica Cave Dragan Marijanović Herzegovina toward the Coast 24 Neum on the Adriatic coast, NP Hutovo Blato, Počitelj, Čapljina, Gabela, Žitomislić Monastery, Dragan Marijanović The wines of Herzegovina 28 Grapes need lots of sun, we all know, and there is no such a place like Herzegovina, Ahmed Burić Herzegovina 30 Your place under the sun Tim Clancy
BE INSPIRED BY HERZEGOVINA
A beautiful region – close enough to explore
This magazine is made possible by the support of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The contents of this magazine are the sole responsibility of the publisher and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Publisher: Lasta Travel doo Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina Editor: Zlatko Papac, Design: SMART/ Raguž & Barbarić design doo Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina Creative Director: Miro Raguž Art Director: Stjepan Barbarić, Scriptwriters: Saša Rosić-Milinković, Ženja Kasumović Papac, Zlatko Papac. Special thanks to the approvals for use of photos: Tourist Bord HNC, Tourist Organisation Trebinje, SMART Mostar, iStockphoto, Munever Salihović, Marija Puselja, Zdenko Raguž, Mikaela Olsson Safvenberg, Almin Zrno, Studio Blagec, Tim Clancy Translators: Ženja Kasumović Papac, Saša Rosić-Milinković Print: Fram-Ziral doo, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina Number of copies: 2000 Mostar, November 2016/ April 2017
The magazine you are holding in your hands is meant to draw attention of tour operators and travellers to an interesting region in the Southeast Europe – the region of Herzegovina. Herzegovina is a smaller part of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Not so many people are aware of the region of Herzegovina as a tourist destination (except for the city of Mostar and the Old Bridge), or a wine region with over 50 wine producers. The magazine BE INSPIRED BY HERZEGOVINA presents the real pearl in the heart of the Balkans, which has so much to show. Herzegovina is a blend of the exciting past
and unique culture - its original culture was exposed to the influences of different world powers that ruled this part of the world, sometimes for hundreds of years. Herzegovina offers unique landscapes, Mediterranean climate, exciting gastronomy and wines with two autochtonous wine varieties - Žilavka and Blatina. In this extended edition, we invite you to join us on our inspirational journey through the region of Herzegovina. Some new words will definitely be added to your new words list, among them Mostar, Stari most*, Žilavka, Blatina, Livno cheese, Hutovo blato, Radimlja, Vjetrenica, Daorson, Mogorjelo, Neum, Tvrdoš Monastery, Buna, Počitelj, Stećci**... Welcome to Herzegovina, an inspiring European region.
* Old Bridge - UNESCO World Heritage List, ** Mediaeval tombstone graveyards – UNESCO World Heritage List
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THE INSPIRING HERZEGOVINA
— a region of unusual diversity and uncovered beauty
To experience Herzegovina is to broaden your knowledge of different civilizations, religions, cultures, and legends that intertwine in this oasis of nature and ancient world. Tucked between the high mountains and blue sea is the region of special character, where streets are paved with stone, where clear freshwater springs merge with rivers, where grapes, tobacco and citrus fruits grow under the blue skies. This is the meeting point of the East and West, where the Orient touches the Mediterranean, with minarets and bell towers that make Herzegovina so special and beautiful. Visiting Herzegovina is like entering a magical world of antiquity, spirituality and intact nature. Every step you make through the tree-lined and shaded streets of old cities tells about their rich past. We can see the monuments of the past, reveal the power of fresh rivers and waterfalls, wander through a magnificent cave, where a fresh wind blows throughout the year, or admire the beautiful colours of nature at Hutovo blato, one of the largest bird reserves in Europe. Spirituality can be found in one of the most popular Catholic shrines in the world, Međugorje, and relaxation on the riverside terraces or the blue Adriatic sea in Neum. The region’s
wine is definitely the highlight, especially when paired with drycured ham and cheese produced according to traditional recipes. Herzegovina offers all of that and much more.
Herzegovinian places and beautiful landscape like pearls of a fine necklace. In Mostar, the capital of Herzegovina, the oriental feeling of the past times is intertwined with the Mediterranean-like life style. This city with stone-paved streets, minarets and bell towers emerged around the Old Bridge (Old Bridge – UNESCO list), which was built across the Neretva River in 1566 by an Ottoman engineer named Hayruddin. Mostar, like the Athens, has the largest number of sunny days in the year in this part of Europe. Mostar is known as the city of light and poets. Međugorje is the second largest Catholic pilgrimage site in the world. Ever since 1981, when six teenagers reported that they had seen an apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
Međugorje has attracted over a million guests from all over the world a year. Vjetrenica Cave (wind cave ) – is one of the most interesting caves of Dinaric Karst, with more than 6,300m of underground canals and 200 different animal species. This mysterious cave is a home to many endemic species, including the Proteus, also known as the human fish. Kravica Waterfalls on the Trebižat river, stretching over 100 m across and tumbling down 25m, is a remarkable site and favourite local swimming spot with picnic area. Hutovo Blato Nature Park is a marshland with aromatic herbs and bird reserve with over 240 bird species. Just beNecropolis Radimlja at night (bottom); Nature Park Hutovo Blato (right)
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Visiting Herzegovina is like entering a magical world of antiquity, spirituality and intact nature. Every step we make through the tree-lined and shaded streets of old cities tells us about their rich past fore the entrance to the picturesque town of Stolac, from the Mostar direction, stands Radimlja (UNESCO WL), one of the largest and most beautiful mediaeval necropoli. The richly carved limestone tombstones testify to a lost culture and alphabet from this region. Neum, a Herzegovinan town on the Adriatic coast, has its own Mediterranean charm. The sea temperature goes up to 27 ° C in the summer. The swimming season starts in April and lasts until October. Before modern tourism came here, local residents were occupied with fishing, olive oil production, collection of aromatic herbs such as absinthe, rosemary, heather, etc.
Home of wine and good food Owing to its Mediterranean climate, lots of sun and its proximity to the sea, Herzegovina has favourable conditions for growing white and red grape varieties, Žilavka and Blatina. Wine-makers here produce wines of good quality, known for its strength and fullness. In the mediaeval Tvrdoš monastery, monks have been making excellent wine, while keeping the recipe secret. Herzegovina is a land of crystalclear streams and rivers. Southern fruits, like figs, pomegranates, grapes, kiwi and mandarins all grow in its sunny climate.
The cuisine of Herzegovina is balanced between the Eastern and Western influences. The food is closely related to Turkish, Middle Eastern and other Mediterranean cuisines. When in Herzegovina, get ready for flavourful meat (there is a long list of meat specialties), including lamb grilled over an open fire, and veal baked in a dish and covered by a lid in hot coals. Most meats here are fresh from the mountainside. In Herzegovina you will be served handmade types of cheese prepared from cow’s and goat’s milk, including kajmak, a creamy and delicious top layer skimmed from milk. The most popular is a dry, light yellow cheese of Livno with strong flavor, tasty and almost spicy, which is caused by a long maturation period. Another popular cheese is the one kept in a sheep’s sack for a couple of months, which resembles the Parmesan when
taken out of the sheepskin ‘bag’. In Herzegovina, there are many smokehouses where meat is hung up to dry and smoke. That is where the proscuito is made according to traditional recipes. When in Herzegovina, you can be offered sea food or a fresh trout prepared in various ways. Usually served with the main course are stewed or fresh vegetables, olives, dried figs, pomegranates… the list is so long. Discover Herzegovina, the Mediterranean region that has it all. Goran Karanović
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Mostar
The heart of the region with great potential — Old Bridge, Blagaj, the Neretva and the Buna... Mostar is the largest city in Herzegovina. It is its economic, cultural, commercial, financial and political centre. Mostar is considered to be one of the most bautiful cities of the Mediterranean, with a fascinating and unique natural setting. Mostar is the city of special history, hit by different misfortunes, with great rises and dramatic falls coming one after another. Heavy and bloody wars thundered on through Mostar, the last of which happened almost at the turn of the 20th century, when the Neretva valley was an arena of unimagined destruction. Today, Mostar is a city-reconvalescent returning to normal life. Its residents are trying hard to defend the urban and civilisational values which Mostar used to be known for. It possesses an enchanting attractiveness that keeps growing despite the crises and historical changes. Mostar has developed for centuries as a meeting point of different civilizations. The City has a unique ambiance made of diverse and often amazing architecture, distinctive mental features, and subtle cultural diversities because of which the City became famous and vowed the visitors from all over the world. Mostar Is known for its pleasant Mediterranean climate and the light. It is less than an hour
away from the Adriatic Sea. The magneticism of Mostar and its surroundings were not spoiled by all the dooms that came upon it. Mostar is one of a few cities in the world with a steep impressive canyon going right through its centre. Its steep banks make the City unique. The old Mostar is a result of the interaction between the natural phenomena and human creativity throughout the long historical period. It is no wonder that Mostar has been an unavoidavle tourist destination for decades, and an everlasting inspiration to artists, photographers, poets. The City of the extensive and colourful history has a rich cultural heritage. The most outstanding example is the Old Bridge of Mostar, a magnificent structure from the Ottoman period, built in 1566. It is an arch stone bridge with a span of about 29 m over the Neretva River, designed by the Ottoman architect Mimar Hayruddin. It is 30 m long, 20m high and 4,5m wide. The bridge is the central part of the complex of buildings including bazaar shops and two towers built on the Neretva banks. The current name, Mostar, was mentioned for the first time in 1474 and derived from ‘mostari’ – the bridge keepers. The historic town of Mostar, spanning a deep valley of the Neretva River, developed in
Mostar has developed for centuries as a meeting point of different civilizations. The City has a unique ambiance made of diverse and often amazing architecture, distinctive mental features, and subtle cultural diversities because of which the City became famous and vowed the visitors from all over the world
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the 15th and 16th centuries as an Ottoman frontier town and during the Austro-Hungarian period in the 19th and 20th centuries. In the 1990s conflicts, however, most of the historic city and the Old Bridge were destroyed. Its reconstruction was completed in 2004, including many of the edifices in the Old Town that were restored or rebuilt with the contribution of an international scientific committee established by UNESCO. The Old Bridge Area, with its pre-Ottoman, eastern Ottoman, Mediterranean and western European architrectural features, is an outstanding example of a multicultural urban settlement. It is a symbol of reconciliation, international cooperation and coexistence of diverse cultural, ethnic and religious communities. The other amenities are the Old Town historic core around the Old Bridge, the Museum of Herzegovina, evidencing the City’s rich history, the Franciscan Monastery, which was destroyed in the war conflicts and then reconstructed. The Partisan Memorial Cemetery, which has been decaying for some time, is a fascinating memorial complex to honour the partisans who lost their lives in the World War II, designed by Bogdan Bogdanović, one of the most renowned European architects. The reconstruction of the old orthodox church, one of the most beautiful orthodox buildings in the Balkans, is underway. The complex-
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The most outstanding example is the Old Bridge of Mostar, a magnificent structure from the Ottoman period, built in 1566 Kujundžiluk, Mostar Old town (left)
The City of Mostar has a long tradition of diving as generations, grew next to the Old Bridge, practiced diving from its long arch into the cold waters of the Neretva. Two schools of diving had emerged centuries before: the headfirst and the legsfirst. The best-known headfirst style is the Lasta (“Swallow”), modeled on the native bird’s sharp wings and dramatic dives. Mostar hosts a diving competition in July every year.
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Stari Most (Old Bridge), has a semi-circular arc, 30 meters long, 20 meters high and 4 meters wide es of old reconstructed houses that are of extraordinary importance for Mostar are well worth a visit: the Karađozbey Mosque, the house of the famous writer, Aleksa Šantić, many outstanding buildings from the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian period, monuments and parks... Blagaj, a small place 7 km away from Mostar, best illustrates the interconnectedness of Herzegovina’s cultural and natural heritage. According to a census of 1991, Blagaj had 1800 inhabitants. The old settlement was the capital of Herzegovina before the arrival of the Ottomans. Blagaj is located around the Buna River spring, a mysterious and yet unexplored cave that attracts tourists, speleologists, divers, historians, adventurers from all over the world. The cave is considered as one of the largest and coolest karst sources in Europe. It boasts an average flow of 40 000 litres per minute. Standing at the base of a 200m cliff wall, by the source of the Buna River is a
During the Early Middle Ages the region was known as Hum (Eng. hill) or Zahumlje. In the 1440s, the region was ruled by powerful nobleman Stjepan Vukčić Kosača. In a document sent to Friedrich III on January 20, 1448, Stjepan Vukčić Kosača called himself Herzog of Saint Sava, lord of Hum and Primorje, great duke of the Bosnian Kingdom (Herzog means duke in German) and so the lands he controlled would later become known as Herzog’s lands or Herzegovina.
Herceg Stjepan Kosača (Duke of Herzegovina), Fortress
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Tekke was built in the 17th century and is open to visitors all year round
Standing at the base of a 200m cliff wall, by the source of the Buna River is a tekke (dervish house), built in 1500s, with the ellements of Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. It is the place where dervishes would meet for their friendly talks and spiritual practices.
tekke (dervish house), built in 1500s, with the elements of Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style. It is the place where dervishes would meet for their friendly talks and spiritual practices. Above the Buna River source is a 200 m steep cliff that holds the ruins of an ancient Illyrian fortification. When the Romans added to the ancient fortress, built atop the monuntin and not easily accessible, it became by the Middle Ages the castle of the ruling noble family of Hum. The Ottomans added even more to the large fort and the ruins stand witness to four civilisations that have at one time or another made Herzegovina their home. With its beautiful buildings, narrow allies, hidden quarters, fishpond and restaurants, Blagaj is a true gem for tourists and hikers, the place that represents, along with Mostar, a unique civilisational and cultural value. Ozren Kebo
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Herzegovina as your destination and Lasta Travel Let us inspire you Lasta Travel Mostar is a travel agency whose major goal is to increase the visibility of Herzegovina as a destination on the world map.
Lasta Travel doo Mostar Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1 88 000 Mostar, BiH Tel. +387 36 332 011 +385 36 332 012 travel@lasta.ba www.lasta.ba
Lasta Travel Mostar is a travel agency whose major goal is to increase the visibility of Herzegovina as a destination on the world map. Lasta Travel Mostar was established in Mostar in 2010, based on 30-year international experience of its founder in the tourism industry. Today, Lasta Travel is a platform of successful tourism workers who speak English, French, German, Swedish, Norwegian and Spanish. Those of us who used to live and work out of Bosnia and Herzegovina have kept up the contact and relations with the colleagues from the tourism industry abroad. We select young forces from the univesities here in order to build together the future of our agency. Being aware of the competition, challenges and new trends in tourism, we are striving towards placing the region of Herzegovina on the map of the world tourist destinations. This is one of a few Mediterranean regions unsufficiently recognized in the world because of the Balkan crisis of the 1990s. Herzegovina, which used to attract many great powers and kingdoms owing to its advantages and position, is nowadays opening its door to tourists from all over the world. This is a fascinating region with the vastly varying and remarkable terrain, from the river canyons to high mountains, karst fields and glacial lakes, the continental climate between the mountains and Mediterranean climate in the river valleys and on the coast. It is not just the scenery that makes Herzegovina so special. It is the light that will wake you up in the morn-
ing. Whether you gaze over a glittering seascape or watching a sunset in the hills, a trip around this corner feels like stepping straight into an impressionist canvas. Lasta Travel offers various types of holidays and visits, with tours and arrangements based on the exciting history and summer holidays on the Adriatic coast, in a small town of Neum, walks over the Old Bridge, talks at the Herze-
most beautiful Herzegovina’s river, surrounded by high mountains. We organize special wine and food tours to savour local specialties and autochtonous wines, learn about medicinal herbs or pick sweet red cherries, pomegranates, figs or grapes. Herzegovina is a region proud of its 252 sunny days a year and its people too – in spite
govina’s necropoli, visits to the Franciscan and orthodox monasteries, dervish tekkes and some of the most beautiful mosques from the Ottoman period. We go walking through the mountains, through the Sutjeska National Park with Perućica, one of the last remaining primeval forests in Europe. We go rafting on the Neretva, the
of all misfortunes and powers that passed through this region, they remained as hard as a rock and kind and welcoming, just as their land. It will be a great pleasure for us at Lasta Travel Mostar to show you every corner of this beautiful region in the heart of Europe. Zlatko Papac
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KONJIC: The northside door of Herzegovina For a traveller setting out on a journey from the mountainous Bosnia toward the Adriatic coast in an early spring, with the peaks of the mountains of Bjelašnica, Prenj and Visočica still gleaming white, the town of Konjic is an unavoidable stop Located in the central part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, this town is rightly considered to be the conjuction ‘and’ in the country’s official name (N.B. Bosnia and Herzegovina), because it connects at least two different cultures. The layers of the accumulated past attract you to stay for some time in the region which, according to historians, has been inhabited for more than 4000 years. No wonder it has been like this: the basin of the Neretva, Herzegovina’s main artery, is so copulent here, with the most beautiful landscapes surrounding it. The Rakitnica canyon is among the most impressive canyons in this part of Europe. The area is famous for rafting tours that start in April and last until October. This is an unforgettable experience and a stop that you should not go past if you choose to travel to Herzegovina. Canyoning is another popular activity here, and one of the most attractive extreme sports’ disciplines. It is travelling in the canyon, using a variety of techniques that include other outdoor activities such as walking, climbing, jumping or in
boats. No less thrilling is going to the mountain of Prenj and hiking up to its highest peak, called Zelena glava, (2155 m above sea level). The intact and pure nature here attracted people still in the Neolithic Age, as evidenced by the found stone tools, remains of dugouts, pottery and other traces testifying about the centuries-long human existence here. Apart from Donje Selo Village near Konjic, where all these samples were found, there are a couple of archaeological sites in the town of Konjic as well, including the largest and most important site at Lisičići. The remains of the statues of the Roman Goddess Diana and God of Mithras, with parts of an ancient building were all found at the site of Crkvine. It is considered to be the most important Roman settlement in this area, with the name of the Roman Emperor Augustus inscribed on a milepost, which serves as evidence that the main routes leading from the Danube Basin and Central Europe were going through this region. The remains of necropoli and tombstones bear witness to one of the most interesting mediaeval
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Ramsko Lake, in the middle of the island Šćit is a Franciscan monastery; The Rakitnica canyon (bottom)
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phenomnenon, the Bosnian Church, as the only one that managed to become the state church at that time. The villages of Bjelimići, Glavatičevo, Borak, Ostrožac, Grčka Glavica and Lisičići keep one of the biggest secrets of religious and secular life in Europe. The Bosnian Church is considered to be based on the Patarene culture, which in various forms existed in Italy and France too. It may be interesting to note in this story about Konjic that the symbols of all religions are found on the remains of the Bosnian Church – the cross, the crescent, the shield, or simply a cluster and a man with the open palm. There are some unique finds featuring the intertwined different cultures and religions: there were places of worship which were started to be constructed as churches and finished as mosques, or some christian rites where the position of hands is typical of Islam. The rule of the Ottoman Empire here began in 1463. One of the most important monuments of that culture is the famous Old Stone bridge in Konjic, destroyed before the end of World War II, and reconstructed in June 2009. Well worth a visit among the sacral monuments are Čaršijska, Vardačka and Tekijska mosques, St. Basil Or-
No wonder it has been like this: the basin of the Neretva, Herzegovina’s main artery, is so copulent here, with the most beautiful landscapes surrounding it
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Family Nikšić Konjic: Hand-carved furniture
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thodox church, St. John the Baptist Catholic church, designed by Josip Vancaš in 1893, one of t he most prominent architects of the time, who designed the Cathedral of Sarajevo as well. Konjic has long been known for its wood craftsmen. Among the most interesting things to see here are the family-owned wood-carving shops of the Mulić and Nikšić families. Here you can find from massive hutches to intricately designed small boxes done manually from finest materials. Whichever side of the world you turn to, you will see fantastic pictures. The Konjic region is known to be the land of lakes as well. The glacial Boračko lake to the north-east, surrounded by forest, with water temperature going up to 21 C in the summer, and the artificial Jablaničko lake to the south, are both heavenly for fishermen. The waters around Konjic are home to brown and California trouts, arctic char and carp. The cherry on the cake is Prozor – Rama. The northernmost spot of Herzegovina is a small town of Prozor and Ramsko lake with the Šćit island and Franciscan monastery. The fabulous pictures here will be an incomparable experience: boat rides, fishing, walking, talking with local priests, or meeting the Catholic population who live according to the hundred years old customs. Grinding grains at ancient watermills,
wearing traditional clothes, or putting the cross tattoes on hands will take you to the world which you believed could be seen only in documentaries or ethnological studies. Finally, if you just look at Rama, the town of Prozor and the village of Duga, named after a 30m waterfall above which a rainbow appears on a regular basis, you’ll realize that there are the parts of the planet rightly called the Navel of the World. They shine brightly, sending out pictures, colours and emotions impossible to be drawn in the maps or found on the Internet. The northside door of Herzegovina is open to all those whose life philosophy rests on the openess and curiosity, just like the man from the tombstones who, with the sun above him, keeps his hand open as a salutation. As a welcome to curiosity, one of the most important requirements for the advancement of humanity. Ahmed Burić
The glacial Boračko lake to the northeast, surrounded by forest, with water temperature going up to 21 C in the summer, and the artificial Jablaničko lake to the south, are both heavenly for fishermen
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Western Herzegovina The western part of the Herzegovina region is visually very exciting. Although the landscape is dominated by rock and barren fields, low hillsides covered with bushes, weeds, wild pommegranates and many different kinds of herbs, Western Herzegovina is a natural stage that no one can remain indifferent to. LJUBUĹ KI LjubuĹĄki is one of the oldest towns in Herzegovina. After the fall of the Ilyrians, the Romans turned it into a military fortification. The Romans often waged wars here, and planned distant conquests too. In the early medieval period, this area was ruled by the nobility from Bosnia and Hum. The town was conquered by the Ottomans in the 15th century. The famous Franciscan monestary and Museum of Humac are located in the vicinity of LjubuĹĄki. The monastery is home to the Humac Tablet, a stone tablet with the first recorded writing in the early Croatian (or Slavic) language, one of the most important artifacts in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This tablet dates back to the late 11th or early 12th century and speaks of the de-
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sire and need of a married couple to build the Church of St. Michael. Although early Christianity was omnipresent in this region, one finds the greatest amount of cultural heritage in the form of ‘stećci’ – medieval tombstones, whose mystery still remains unsolved. In one necropolis located in the village of Bijača, near Ljubuški, several new tombstones were discovered with rarely seen engraved ornaments. 22 sites with mediaeval tombstones that lie scattered across Bosnia and Herzegovina were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2016. Ljubuški is the westernmost town in Herzegovina, where christian and oriental cultures mixed throughout centuries, through both architecture and daily habits of people. Yet, there was one tradition shared by everybody: growing two indigenous grape varieties, Žilavka and Blatina. Žilavka produces a wine of a very specifitc golden and green colour, while Blatina’s colour flirts on the line between dark red and shades of ruby. Wine production and wine cellars really flourished during the rule of the Habsburg Monarchy, when the Royal court in Wien founded and built royal vineyards and cellars near Ljubuški and Trebinje. One of the most beaufitul and unusual rivers of the western Herzegovina is the Trebižat. Its spring is below the Dalmatian hills in Croatia. Between there and its confluence into the Neretva next to the town of Čapljina, this river changes its name six times! In the area between Ljubuški and Čapljina, this river forms one of the most beautiful karstic waterfalls, Kravica. The waterfalls can be accessed by nar-
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One of the most beaufitul and unusual rivers of the western Herzegovina is the Trebižat. Its spring is below the Dalmatian hills in Croatia. Between there and its confluence into the Neretva next to the town Čapljina, this river changes its name six times!
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row but well-maintained roads, and the area around the waterfalls is surrounded by the thriving willow trees. The Trebižat is rich with fish, feeds fertile fields in the south, and is an attractive destination for kayaking and river rafting. In the village of Struge, we find remnants of the old Ottoman-era watermills. This used to be a central destination for milling, and even today we find two functioning watermills, that are definitely worth a visit. In this place, like many others in the Ljubuški area, various civilizations left material heritage in an area of only a few square kilometres. All alongside the river Trebižat one finds meadows perfect for picnics and camping, hunting and fishing, meaning that the banks are full of visitors from spring to fall. If you feel like going for a swim, feel free to do so, since the Trebižat is a whole 10 degrees Celsius warmer than the Neretva!
MEĐUGORJE One of the most famous Marian pilgrimage sites in the world. It was in the summer of 1982, when a group of six local children ran up to the local pastor claiming to have an apparition of the Mother of God herself. They also transmitted the messages she gave in regards of their destiny and the destiny of humankind. Ever since then,
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pilgrims from all sides arrive barefoot in tens of thousands, praying and climbing the Apparition hill. Međugorje, until that point in time a small, poor village, started developing rapidly. However, the Holy See in Vatican to this day has not officially recognized Međugorje as a Marian site. Despite that, all nearby airports receive planes full of pilgrims from all corners of the world throughout the whole year, and the pilgrims themselves are not Catholics only. To this day, more than 20 million people have visited Međugorje, and their number increases year after year. Therefore, sermons in Međugorje are held in almost every global language. Međugorje is very easy to reach from the Mostar airport, some 20 km away, as well as Sarajevo and Dubrovnik that are some 140 km away, and Split which is a little nearer than these two. There is also an increasing trend of bulding ethno-villages in this part of Herzegovina, so we recommend visiting the ethno-village Herceg. Located at the very entrance to Međugorje, this village was built by a combination of hard-working human hands and incredible machinery, extracting water from a depth of 250m, which enabled a barren rocky landscape to become a green oasis.
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Kočerinska ploča/ The Kočerin tablet
Široki Brijeg is home to one of the oldest gymnasiums in the Balkans. After the departure of the Ottomans, a music school was founded alongside the gymnasium, and the records tell us that this little town already had 11 pianos at that time.
PODRUM OSTOJIĆ
MOTEL
MONAKO 2000 Tradition and quality
Motel Monaco 2000
Improving their knowledge about grapes and passing it on from generation to generation, family Ostojić came to enviable quality in making prestigious and recognized kind of wines in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Herzegovinian climate of stone and sun gives perfect conditions for cultivation and reshaping the most quality sort of grapes. Brotnjo is an example because there are the most quality Herzeovinian vineyards known by grapes and wines over the centuries. It is our production program that gives top-quality wines Žilavka, Blatina, Vranac and Merlot; Barrique wines; brandies Loza, Travarica, Extra loza, Golden quince, Golden apricot, Bitter walnut brandy, Honey brandy and Pear brandy; liqueurs Cherry, Sweet walnut and Sweet quince.
Monaco 2000 Motel is a perfect choice for families and other guests who want to spend relaxing holidays being surrounded by natural beauty. They can enjoy peaceful surrounding by the outside pool of the hotel. Free yourself from stress and find a moment just for you. Spacious, modern and well equiped rooms surrounded by scented park make it unforgettable holiday. Absorb sunrays on balconies with a beautiful view. Within this complex there is a restaurant and a room for degustating wines.We organize wine tours. Our gastronomic offer will meet a standard of the most selective guests. Capacity: - 2 suites - 2 single rooms - 6 twin rooms - 2 double rooms
Monako 2000 d.o.o. Potpolje, 88260 Čitluk Telefon: +387 36 642 161, +387 36 650 801 | Fax: +387 36 642 161, +387 36 650 796 | Mob: +387 63 893 298 e-mail: vino@podrumostojic.ba web: www.podrumostojic.ba
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ŠIROKI BRIJEG Široki Brijeg is the centre of western Herzegovina. It got its name after a wide plateau that dominates above the Lištica. This is where one of the most famous churches in Herzegovina was built in the late 19th century. The town simply spread as the people used to build new houses, wanting to live near the church and monastery. However, we find traces of human life here dating back to prehistoric times. This area has one of the most exciting river springs in the region. This is where the first hydroelectric plant in BiH was built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, and it was commissioned by the local franciscans. Interestingly enough, this little Herzegovinian town had a plenty of street lighting at the point in time when a lot of the US was in darkness! This town is home to one of the oldest gymnasiums in the Balkans. After the departure of the Ottomans, a music school was founded alongside the gymnasium, and the records tell us that this little town already had 11 pianos at that time. Also in the Široki Brijeg area, in a village called Kočerin, we find the earliest scripture in ‘bosančica’ – an early local version
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of the cyrillic alphabet, which is the oldest proof of literacy of South Slavs in this region of the Balkans. A copy of this valuable artifact can be found in the village church. Also, one can find a rare museum and an unusual art gallery that pre-dates WWII as part of the Široki Brijeg monastery. Today, this art gallery is one of the most prestigious ones in the entire Western Balkans, and is a glad host the artists from all countries and religions. Široki Brijeg is also home to the Mediterranean Film Fest, a prestigious documentary film festival, as well as the West Herzegovina Fest, a music festival. These two are complimented by various manifestations that promote local cuisine and wine producers. Dragan Marijanović
Humska ploča/ The Humska tablet
Fra Didak Buntić (1871-1922), a Franciscan friar from Herzegovina, educator and social worker, builder, and politician is the most outstanding historical figure in Herzegovina. In his short life time, this humble friar managed to make thousands of Herzegovinians literate by opening village schools. He built up a neo-Roman basilica in Široki Brijeg. He was doing politics and diplomacy to protect Herzegovina and its poor people. During WWI, in 1917, when a severe famine struck Herzegovina, fr. Didak Buntić organized convoys transporting 12 370 starving and exhausted children to Slavionia and saved them from certain death. 100 years ago, fr. Didak Buntić had a vision of a happy and prosperous Herzegovina. We believe that by working hard and by remembering this exceptional man, we are following in his footsteps.
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Eastern Herzegovina STOLAC Stolac is a magnificent small town in a valley, built along a rushing river, between rugged hills, located 60 kilometres from Mostar and about 30 km from the sea. The road leading to the town is surrounded by vineyards and orchards, with various places of worship on the horizon. In this location, where you least expect it, you will find the art gallery ‘Vjekoslav Božo Jarak’, which that very priest gifted to his birthplace. The gallery houses paintings of some of the most prominent artists of the wider region. On the entrance to Stolac we find a unique sight that attracts many visitors from around the world: the Radimlja necropolis, the most famous group of ‘stećak’ tombstones in the region. The decorations and ornaments on them are in a better shape than in other locations. The details we find inscribed into the stone reveal a lot about the status or lifestyle of the person who was buried under the stone long ago; we can find detailed depictions of hunting, war, wine, male and female dances, various lunar symbols etc. The necropolis is a heritage site of the utmost value inscribed, along with 21 other necropli in BiH, on the UNESCO WHL in 2016. These monuments and their messages have been subjects of countless scientific studies. The necropolis is an endless source of inspiration to painters and poets. Stolac is an ancient toponym, emerged at the time of the prehistoric caravan road that lead from the sea to the Pannonian Plains. Its name in today’s form was first mentioned in the 15th century. This marks
Stećak (pl.: stećci) is a distinctive mediaeval megalithic tombstone from the Balkan Peninsula on the UNESCO WHS list. Stećci first appeared between the 14th and 16th c. They are found in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro. These enigmatic tombstones come in various shapes. There are horizontal monoliths, commonly shaped like chests, while others are gable-roofed sarcophagi. Yet others are the simple slabs or upright stelae or pillars, with the occasional massive cross or other form. Often carved in bas-relief with a plethora of decoration, and with epitaphs or gnomic inscriptions recorded in the Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet, they are one of the region’s most distinctive art forms from the mediaeval historical period. The details inscribed into the stone reveal about the status or lifestyle of the person who was buried under the stone long ago, with the depictions of hunting, war, wine, male and female dances, various lunar symbols etc. Out of 60 000 mediaeval tombstones, 50 000 are in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The most outstanding necropolis is at Radimlja near Stolac.
On the entrance to Stolac we find a unique sight that attracts many visitors from around the world: the Radimlja necropolis, the most famous group of ‘stećak’ tombstones in the region. The decorations and ornaments on them are in a better shape than in other locations. The details we find inscribed into the stone reveal a lot about the status or lifestyle of the person who was buried under the stone long ago; we can find detailed depictions of hunting, war, wine, male and female dances, various lunar symbols etc.
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the beginning of the era of Stolac as an organized town, making it the first one in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Although Stolac suffered considerable damage during the war of the 90s, these days, it is a beautiful town to see, located on the banks of the Bregava river. Bregava bridges are historical germs as well. In the summer, its beaches are filled with people. Not far from Stolac, we find the Ilyrian city of Daorson. It is located at Orťanići, and approached by a gravel road by which history lovers built a beautiful lookout point. This is the most important remnant of megalithic construction, perhaps on the entire eastern coast of the Adriatic. Daorson was the capital of the Ilyrian tribe of Daors, and it featured their treasury, sacrificial altars, water tanks and everything else that a tribe far ahead of its time might have needed. This is also where they forged their money, which made them unique among all Ilyrian tribes. Although many adventurers took away valuable artifacts from here throughout the centuries, recent satellite images have shown that the walls of Daorson and the surrounding plateau still contain some unexplored locations. Daorson is a place that quite simply must be seen! Nekropolis Radimlja (above), Arslanagića bridge, Trebinje (on the left), Daorson (small picture to the bottom)
U jednoj prastaroj epskoj narodnoj pjesmi pominje se manastir Tvrdoš i njegovi podrumi, odnosno manastirske izbe ispunjene vinom. Isto kao i u čitavoj Evropi, uostalom, i u našem vinarstvu najveće zasluge za prenošenje znanja o uzgajanju vinove loze i proizvodnji vina pripadaju monaštvu. Mnoge slavne vinarske kuće Francuske, Italije, Španije i Nemačke nastale su na starim manastirskim posjedima ili kao nastavljači njihove tradicije.
Vina Manastira Tvrdoš Vranac i Žilavka ovdje se rađaju vijekovima, a uz njih zasađeni su i šardone, merlo, kaberne i sirah, što omogućava i spajanje autohtonog i internacionalnog, tradicionalnog i modernog, što vinima Tvrdoša daje i dodatni kvalitet. Podrumi manastira Tvrdoš Tvrdoš b.b., Trebinje Republika Srpska, Bosna i Hercegovina telefon +387 59 246 810 faks +387 59 246 811 E mejl tpodrumi@teol.net www.tvrdos.com
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It is the southernmost city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The road leading to Trebinje takes us through the biggest karst field in Europe, the Popovo Polje Valley, offering mag-
The road leading to Trebinje takes us through the biggest karst field in Europe, the Popovo Polje Valley, offering magnificent views. A long time ago this field was dry and barren, but after the process of meliorisation, this field became an oasis of orchards, vineyards and vegetable gardens
nificent views. A long time ago this field was dry and barren, but after the process of meliorisation, this field became an oasis of orchards, vineyards and vegetable gardens. In its northern part, near the town of Ravno, is the Vjetrenica cave,
with more than 6300m of underground canals, and 200 different animal species. Near the cave entrance is the Orthodox Zavala Monastery, boasting an impressive collection of faded frescoes. The Monestary in Zavala is also known for the presumtion that one of the greatest physicists of the medieval times, Ruđer Bošković, was born here. The river Trebišnjica, the biggest underground river in Europe, flows through the Popovo Polje Valley and feeds it. Trebinje is a beautiful Mediterranean town, full of green Monastery Tvrdoš fresco; Trebinje old town (top) flora and nice squares. The potential for tourism here is massive, since it is surrounded by two massive lakes. Historically, Trebinje has been a place of customs control and military fortification, which is perfectly logical since its eastern side borders with Montenegro, and its southern area with Croatia and Dubrovnik. This area used to be called Travunia, and the name Trebinje can
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he Andjelic family had been cultivating and producing wine for generations. Our forefathers have been producing wine and grape brandy of recognizable quality for more than a hundred years. Nowadays, only the members of the family take part in creating our wines, and due to their dedication and love all of our wines are of excellent quality.
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he wine cellar Andjelic is situated on the banks of Trebisnjica, the longest European sinking river, and near the ruins of the old medieval town of Micevac, at a sun drenched place located on the southern part of the Herzegovina wine road.
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Monastery Tvrdoš (above)
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be find in historical records as early as 1377. Interestingly, there are traces of Paleolithic Age all around this area, but only around 1% of the locations have been explored. Trebinje is famous for its plane trees. Many important buildings and institutions are named after them, including the city hotel. The historic fort with its Ottoman-era bridge is located in the very centre of this lively little town which is cut apart by Trebišnjica, and towered by the mountain Leotar. Trebinje’s cuisine is exquisite, and wines famous. The most famous wines are Vranac, Žilavka and Blatina. Trebinje’s history of wine production is closely tied to the Austro-Hungarian rule, since Trebinje is the location where the biggest Royal plantations used to be built. The Orthodox Monastery Tvrdoš, 4 km from Trebinje, has a quite fascinating history: the first version of the monastery was built on the
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foundation of an already existing church, somewhere between the 4th and the 6th century. You can find the excellent frescoes made by the masters from Dubrovnik. In the 16th century, this monastery was the centre and shelter of the Orthodox Christianity in the south. It has been damaged and renovated on several occasions. Today, it is one of the most beautiful examples with typical features of the Slavic Orthodox architecture in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The monastery houses a 15th-century stone cellar and a new, modern cellar. Try to feel the aroma of peaches, kiwi, and honey in white wines and cherries or figs in red wines. The monks here are very hospitable and the wine they produce is excellent! Dragan Marijanović
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Southern Herzegovina Počitelj Some thirty kilometres south of Mostar, and a few kilometres north of Čapljina, we find the ancient Počitelj. It’s built high above the road, and connected top to bottom by narrow stone pathways. In the earliest stages of its development it was a primitive Ilyrian fortification above the river. For a while, it was ruled by the nobility of Herzegovina, and even the Herzeg Stjepan Kosača, but also by the Bosnian bans and kings. It was most likely a watchdog settlement guarding important trade routes from the Neretva Delta to the inland settlements. The true development of this town starts with the arrival of the Ottomans to this area in the 16th century. Since that time, this pearl of Oriental architecture had many buildings added to it, including cannon towers, an ancient mosque, accommodation for caravans, people, horses and warehouses. Počitelj overlooks the Neretva river, and is separated from it by a fertile field, which is a real kingdom of early cherries. Interestingly, for a very long time Počitelj was the only place in the large area that had a fair dedicated to cherries! With its enticing appearance, Počitelj is as attractive as ever for adventurers, travel writers, painters and poets from all corners of the world – for the past half-century there has been an active art colony located in one of its many historic
houses. Počitelj is a wonderful day trip from either the coast or Mostar. The highest climb among the labyrinth of stones is the tower. Although it is in slight disrepair, don’t miss to climb to the top for the magnificent views of the Neretva Valley.
Čapljina Located between narrow hills, on the wider parts of the Neretva, Čapljina is one of the most beautiful towns in Herzegovina with a pleasant climate. South of it there are fertile fields and many smaller settlements. Čapljina got its name after a type of heron (‘čaplja’), an autochtonous bird that lives in the area in large numbers. Čapljina is the town of flowers, white residential buildings, nicely maintained walkways, streets, bridges and cosy summer gardens. Aside from the Neretva, this area receives water from the rivers Bregava, Trebižat and Krupa. One of the biggest water treasures in the region is the Hutovo Blato Nature Park, one of the largest
Vjetrenica (above), Mogorjelo (bottom), Žitomislići monastery (small picture to the right), Počitelj (top)
natural bird habitats and nesting grounds. This is a vast water surface partly fed by the Krupa, alongside 9 other natural springs, each one home to a different legend and having a special meaning to the local population. Čapljina is the town of natural abundance thanks to fertile fields, rivers teeming with fish and Hutovo Blato. Almost every kind of southern fruit tree
With its enticing appearance, Počitelj is as attractive as ever for adventurers, travel writers, painters and poets from all corners of the world – for the past half-century there has been an active art colony located in one of its many historic houses
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thrives in this area; south, east and west of the town you can find large orchards of peach, apple, pear, kiwi, joined by massive vegetable greenhouses and of course vineyards. Hutovo Blato is a breeding ground for around 200 different species of birds, and around 20 different species of fish, frogs and eel. The park itself sports a well-maintained fishing trails, and is considered one of the best fishing spots in the country, with many autochtonous and some endemic species of fish. The whole area is full of various species of game animals, and is a real arboretum of many kinds of trees, flowers and other plants. Moreover, the area is rich in archeological sites – recently a location in the park was found out to be a settlement of the ancient Ilyrian tribe of Daors. A tour or photo-safari of certain
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parts of the Park is possible to arrange with locals and their boats on a daily basis. A kilometer south of Čapljina we can find a rare example of the Ottoman architecture – ‘Kozja ćuprija’, or the Goat bridge when translated into English. It is located on the Bregava, which flows from the east, and flows into the Neretva barely a hundred meters away from the bridge. This unusual structure, built half a century before the famed Old Bridge in Mostar, was a caravan and customs crossing for a long time. The bridge hasn’t been in use for a very long time already, and is now considered to be a monument of national history of the utmost value.
Mogorjelo The archaeological site of Mogorjelo was discovered completely by accident. This ancient treasure was completely buried, perhaps because the Neretva used to change its course, so everything was covered with thick layers of river sand. It was in the late 19th century that the Austro-Hungarian engineers researched the area trying to determine the route for a railway to Dubrovnik, when they came upon the remnants of structures of unknown origin. Soon after, an Austrian archaeologist by the name Pasch, led a large crew tasked with carefully digging up this location, making it the most important and most well-
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preserved ancient location in southern Herzegovina. The location was originally developed as a business hub, and was later repurposed into a military compound, before being burnt to the ground by the Visigoths in the 5th century. Today we find the remains of the Villa Rustica, with its massive pillars and finely decorated gates, alongside an early Christian baptistery,a facility for production of olive oil and other buildings of varying significance. Today, Mogorjelo sports a local restaurant, as well as a well-organized horseriding club that offers its clients the joys of horseback and carriage riding.
Gabela Located some three kilometers south of Mogorjelo, on the right bank of the Neretva, this is a place of great historic importance and one of the largest villages in today’s Bosnia and Herzegovina. Gabela has always been a border settlement – long ago it was on the border between the Bosnian Kingdom (later under the Ottoman rule) and the Venetian Republic. Today, it’s on the border between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia. The history of this place is very turbulent – due to its naturally favourable geographical location, it was besieged by various armies many times. Numerous archaeological sites indicate the presence of early Christianity in this area, perhaps earlier than anywhere else on the eastern shore of the Adriatic. Gabela itself is first mentioned as a slave trading site, and was the last stronghold of Herzegovina before the arrival of the Ottoman Empire in the late 15th century. Although the
Hutovo Blato is a breeding ground for around 200 different species of birds, and around 20 different species of fish, frogs and eel
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area was ruled by various states and rulers since then, its main purpose always remained the same – trade. Interestingly enough, Gabela itself was built on both banks of the Neretva – the residential part of Gabela was on the right bank, while the trading site was located on the left side of the river where it was easier to approach by traders. By closely examining the architecture in the area, one can discern a number of different periods and styles of building, from the medieval and Ottoman, to the building style typical of the Dubrovnik Republic. Yet, the most notable and significant piece of historic legacy is a stone lion, the symbol of the Venetian Republic, located at the very entrance to the fort itself. The walls of the fort provide a unique view of the surrounding area, including the charming Croatian town of Metković.
Žitomislići This quaint little settlement got its name after wheat and its fields (‘žito’ means wheat in English). This place is interesting to historians and visitors because of one of the oldest Herzegovinian Orthodox monasteries located here. The settlement and monastery are located
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Neum is the only BH town on the Adriatic coast, and the only access that Bosnia and Herzegovina has to the sea. Around 20 km of the shore belongs to Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it was enough to build the most prestigious summer vacation resort in Herzegovina in a favourable position, on the road between Mostar and Čapljina.The monastery was originally built in the late 14th century, and renovated for the first time in the mid-16th century. The history of this monastery is tragic and fascinating at the same time. The monastery itself, although during the time of the Ottoman rule, used to keep close connections with other Orthodox monasteries in Serbia, Greece, Jerusalem and elsewhere. The woodcarving and woodcutting art displayed in the monastery has been deemed as one of the most beautiful in all of the history of the Serbian Orthodox churches. Icons and other valuables, including various pieces of historic Serbian Orthodox scriptures were sadly destroyed on several occasions. Very few of these pieces remain intact to this date. The monks here are very hospitable, and will gladly tell the stories of the rich history of Orthodox Christianity in this area.
Neum Neum is the only BH town on the Adriatic coast, and the only access that Bosnia and Herzegovina has to the sea. Around 20 km of the shore belongs to Bosnia
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and Herzegovina, and it was enough to build the most prestigious summer vacation resort in Herzegovina. Its affordable prices, excellent cuisine and clean sea make it an attractive prospect. The town itself and the surrounding area live off and for tourism, meaning their guests get the utmost respect and special treatment. The bay of Neum, and the surrounding bays that gravitate toward it are brimful of natural spawning grounds of edible shellfish – highly sought-after mussels and oysters, but also a great variety of fish, sea bass and bream in particular, which means they are found on the menu of more-or-less any respectable food establishment in Neum. Neum is home to a wellknown international animated film festival called NAFF, as well as a music festival Ethno Fest. This is a chance to see ‘linđo’, a local traditional dance that is easy on the eye and hard on the legs, as well as to hear the sound of a traditional instrument ‘lijerica’ that accompanies the dance. The hinterland of Neum is also a fascinating area to explore. One can find remnants of the 19th century AustroHungarian railway that ran to Dubrovnik, and hear interesting legends about it. This area too has around 1300 stećak-tombstones, the highest amount in the whole country, alongside many unexplored caves and other natural phenomena. There are several ancient towns and villages you can visit. As an additional bonus, the small historic town of Ravno and the Vjetrenica cave are a short drive away as well! Dragan Marjanović
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The history of wine says that wine drinking had started by about 4000 BC and possibly as early as 6000 BC. The vineyards from which wine was produced first appeared in Georgia and Iran. It is believed that 1500 years later wine ‘came’ to Europe, straight to the Balkan Peninsula. The word wine is instantly recognized in almost all languages: In Proto Germanic, the word for wine is winam, in Latin it is vinum; in Proto Indo European language spoken by the Hittites it was liyana, in Liceum it was oino, the ancient Greeks took over the word oinos, the Aeolians called it woinos, in Mycenae it was wono, the Georgians called it ghivino, and the Semites wayn, which is the name for it in the anglophonic civilization today (wine). We have kept in use the Slavic form of the word, calling it simply vino. The Mediterranean as the cradle of world civilization hides in itself some irreplacable areas for certain cultures. Viniculture and grape growing stand high in the list of such cultures. Grapes need lots of sun, we all know, and there is no such a place like Herzegovina upon which the sun shines so brightly and so warmly. Tucked between the chain of Bosnian mountains to the north and the Adriatic sea to the south, the region of Herzegovina, in geography terms, has the heavenly gift the most accrative European destination can boast. Going down along the Neretva valley, and exploring other parts of the basin
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The wines
Herzegovin Monastery Tvrdoš wine cellar (above)
provides a fabulous experience for a visitor. Such a blend of the Mediterranean and continental culture reveals unique landscapes, colours, smells and tastes - some kind of Provence of the Southeast Europe. There are so many reasons to visit Herzegovina. Yet, if you chose to come only for wine and food, you would not be wrong at all. For me,
the pleasure of Herzegovina is its diversity. Here, you can find almost anything: from products from the mountaneous areas to coastal delicacies, from rugged and white rocks sceneries to incredible oases which can be experienced only in your innermost feelings or seen on the Discovery channel. Wine in Herzegovina is a kind of link for everything mentioned above. The names of places where Žilavka (white), a white wine grape variety and Blatina (red) are planted may not now mean anything to you. Yet, if you come to visit Cerno, Domanovići, Pijana Brda or Kameni Vinogradi, you will realize the truth of an old saying attributed to Omer
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Hajjam, a Persian mathematician, astronomer and writer – ‘ I do not understand those people who sell wine; is there really anything better they can buy for that money?’ Golden yellow is the colour of Žilavka, full of loud laughter in its many forms. Dark red is the colour of Blatina, with the allure of the night, seductive, painting ordinary moments with romantic colours. It is no wonder, then, that people in Herzegovina use to say ‘white wine is for laughter, and red wine is for sin’ – both wines can go together with two most important moods – happiness and love. It has never been found out what kind of wine the Greek and Roman Gods used
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Wine is for enjoyment. Its main secrets are devotion and love. When you visit Herzegovina, you shoud bear in mind two things: First, if you meet a head of the household you like, ask him to taste his wine. Wine has to look like the one who makes it. Second, if you happen to be on the vineyard soil, known as red earth, at Dubrave, Dragićina, Miletina, Buna, Stolac, Ortiješ, Počitelj, Cerno, Modrič, Klobuk or Veljaci, ask for a family tradition many times you will be surprised to see for how long, with how many efforts and sacrifices, wine has been made, lived off and lived for to drink. The secret of love has never been found out either. Yet, the most important and knowledgeable theologians will say that God is love. Then, there is no doubt at all that wine is one of the best companions of love, a friend who heals and comforts and an inspiration for great deeds. Today, there are countless cellars, vineyards and vine makers all over Herzegovina; Vinarija Čitluk, Vinogradi Nuić, Podrum Anđelić, Podrumi Ostojić, Vinarija Keža, Carska Vina - podrumi Vasilj, Vina Zadro, Podrumi Manastira Tvrdoš, Podrumi Andrija and Hepok are some of the best. The wineries at Domanovići, Čitluk, Ljubuški,
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Trebinje and Mostar will offer you the tastes and colours of the region in which you will definitely enjoy. Lots of sun, stone, sky and red soil are perfect companinons for grapes. They all provide a unique atmosphere in which wine comes up as a rather logical continuation of this natural sequence. The malt from vine plants that grow under this sun flows over to barrels and wine begins to flow out from them, like the exuberance of life. Wine has to be elegant and honest and must possess the features and tastes of the territory it originates from: that is the reason why the true Žilavka is full of the tastes of honey and peach, as those two cultures are closest to the grape-bearing vines in Herzegovina’s vineyards. One of the basic tastes of Blatina, on the other hand, is the taste of raspberry - a bush with thorns and sweet fruits. Wine is for enjoyment. Its main secrets are devotion and love. When you visit Herzegovina, you shoud bear in mind two things: First, if you meet a head of the household you like, ask him to taste his wine. Wine has to look like the one who makes it. Second, if you happen to be on the vineyard soil, known as red earth, at Dubrave, Dragićina, Miletina, Buna, Stolac, Ortiješ, Počitelj, Cerno, Modrič, Klobuk or Veljaci, ask for a family tradition many times you will be surprised to see for how long, with how many efforts and sacrifices, wine has been made, lived off and lived for. But, don’t reject a glass of brandy either. It is a strong aperitif and digestif, it has its logic and story,which is quite different than the wine one. A Hungarian writer Bela Hamvas classifies people as wine people and brandy people – Herzegovinians could be said to belong to both groups, with wine constituting the more important part of the story. If this story aroused even a little bit of your curiosity to taste and smell Herzegovinian wines – Cheers! Ahmed Burić
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HERZEGOVINA – Your place under the sun
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Hercegovina, the land of the Duke, was the northern border of the ancient Hellenistic civilization. It has been a remote cultural and natural Mediterranean oasis for many millennia. Today, as the southern region of Bosnia and Hercegovina – the region maintains its very unique and distinct identity. The people are very much like the land. At first glance, Hercegovina’s terrain may appear rugged and hard. But upon scratching the surface, one finds a heritage like few others. In a country such as Bosnia and Hercegovina, it is impossible to separate the cultural from the natural heritage of this central Balkan nation. The symbiosis of the land and its people has created a powerful local identity amongst the people of Hercegovina. They are proud people…and are proud of their land. Every generation has worked hard to carve a living from its rocky terrain. And now they’re ready to share it with you. Hercegovina is part of the largest karst field in the world. The massive limestone
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massifs have created on the most biologically diverse regions in Europe. Vjetrenica Caves in the Popovo Polje Valley is the most biologically diverse underground system on planet earth. The towering peaks of the Central Dinaric Alps dominate the heart of Hercegovina. This mountain range, reaching well over 2,000 metres, is a mountaineer’s and hiker’s paradise. They host over 60% of Europe’s flora and make it the most bio-diverse eco-system in all of Bosnia and Hercegovina. The proposed national park, Prenj-Cvrsnica-Cabulja, located just north of the city of Mostar, is the natural frontier between the warm and mild Mediterranean climate and the cooler, continental Alpine one. This intersection of climates is the reason for its unmatched bio-diversity. They offer some of the most attractive and challenging hiking areas in southeast Europe. Prenj, coined the Hercegovina Himalaya, is the mother of all mountains this region.
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Hercegovina, the land of the Duke, was the northern border of the ancient Hellenistic civilization. It has been a remote cultural and natural Mediterranean oasis for many millennia
From both the underbelly of the earth and the high peaks of the mountains, comes
Mostar Sevdah Reunion, one of the popular bands playing world music, recorded the first album in the Pavarotti Music Centre in Mostar in 1999. Sevdah (Turkish word) stands for amorous yearning, magic of love, melancholy, heartache. Sevdah is based on nostalgic sadness and intense emotions. The word originates from the period of time when the country was a part of the Ottoman Empire. MSR plays folk music that merges Sephardic, Oriental and European rhythms, with melanholic hints of the blues and jazzy flavours.
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the lifeline of Hercegovina. Water. Unlike many other arid Mediterranean areas – Hercegovina is blessed with a plethora of magnificent rivers, streams, and springs. Due to its limestone configuration, the waters of Hercegovina appear as a magical turquoise colour. The Neretva River, flowing from the highlands of northern Hercegovina into the Adriatic Sea in neighbouring Croatia, is the heartbeat of Bosnia’s southern region. Hercegovina’s traditional cultural and political capital, Mostar, was established along her banks and the UNESCO heritage site the Stari Most (Old Bridge) was built to span east and west that was divided by the fast flow of the Neretva’s mighty waters. The Trebizat River, a contributory of the Neretva in western Hercegovina, is a meandering dream of crystal clear, pristine water. Whether one experiences it from the Kravice or Kosuca waterfalls near Ljubuski or by taking the plunge with a canoe
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safari from Capljina, this precious waterway will leave no visitor unmoved by its beauty. Nor will the inspiring sources of the Buna Springs at Blagaj leave one indifferent. The 16th century Dervish Monastery, perfectly constructed into the rock faces, perhaps best represents the synergy of Hercegovina’s cultural and natural heritage. Trebinje, Hercegovina’s southernmost town, is only a 30 minute drive from the world famous city of Dubrovnik. The architecture of Trebinje, heavily influenced from its vicinity to Dubrovnik, ranks amongst the most impressive in all of Bosnia and Hercegovina. This quiet town, tucked behind the hinterlands of the Adriatic Sea, is an ideal place to escape the crowds and noise of Dubrovnik. It’s perfect for peaceful walks along the beautiful Trebisnjica River or to visit some of its old-world villages scattered throughout the countryside.
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Trebinje, Hercegovina’s southernmost town, is only a 30 minute drive from the world famous city of Dubrovnik. The architecture of Trebinje, heavily influenced from its vicinity to Dubrovnik, ranks amongst the most impressive in all of Bosnia and Hercegovina. This quiet town, tucked behind the hinterlands of the Adriatic Sea, is an ideal place to escape the crowds and noise of Dubrovnik
Grgo Vasilj Wine Cellar
SMART, Raguž & Barbarić design
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Perhaps the mystery of Hercegovina’s silver stones and turquoise waters can be best summed up by the wetlands of Hutovo Blato. This RAMSAR site, located only a stone’s throw from the Adriatic Sea, is the seasonal home to over 240 bird species in their migratory paths heading both north and south. The waters are from a labyrinth of underground aquifer systems that create a series of large, fresh water lakes. Both fresh and seawater fish have oddly made their home here. It is a popular destination for both bird watchers and sports fisherman. Hercegovina seems to have it all. The countryside in the far southern regions is covered by wild pomegranates, figs, and vineyards. Its northern tip produces apples, pears and finest sorts of continental fruit. The moonlike landscape to the west is balanced by its green and forested terrain to the north and east. From top to bottom, its most commonly shared heritage flows. The crystal clear waters are as abundant as the sun. And be rest assured, the sun will always follow. Hercegovina has more sunny days than anyplace in Bosnia and Hercegovina. Wherever one travels in this rustic, historical driven region…Hercegovina will be sure to Inspire. Herzegovina — the perfect mélange of Mediterranean and Alpine life. Tim Clancy
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Herzegovina Bosnia & Herzegovina
Sarajevo Croatia
Split Mostar
Dubrovnik Adriatic sea
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Herzegovina POPULATION 400.000 AREA 12.276 km2 LANGUAGES Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian LARGEST CITY Mostar CURRENCY Convertible mark/BAM Mostar → Sarajevo 129 km Mostar → Split 168 km Mostar → Dubrovnik 131 km
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Bosnia and Herzegovina Government: Federal Republic Population: 3.8 million Capital: Sarajevo Language: Bosnian / Croatian / Serbian Currency: Convertible Mark (BAM) Land area: 51,129 km2 The country code for BiH is +387 Area code Mostar is (0) 36 Area code Trebinje is (0) 59 Emergency: 112 Operators speak English
MEDITERAN FILMFESTIVAL
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Mostar Airport Ltd. • Ortijes bb, 88000 Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina Tel: +387 36 352 770 • Tel/Fax: +387 36 350 212 E-mail: info@mostar-airport.ba • www.mostar-airport.ba