a/w 18 19
Lau Lok Yi N0776463
Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Hong Kong Design Institute
ba
ifb
2017 / 2018
Module: Fashion Buying Module reference: FASH30007
IVE
Module Leader: LEE, Vivian
Module Name Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.
Signed ………………………………………………………………(Full Name)………………Lau Lok Yi………………… Date …………………………5-12-17………………………………… (Word Count: __2647 WORDS___)
Fig 1. Superdry Sport
01
07
Brand’s Strategy
A/W 18/19 Collection Analysis
02
08
SWOT Analysis
Retail Planning
03
09
Customer Situation
Conclusion
Contents 04
10
Fashion Show Review
Reference
05
11
Trend Forecast
Photo Reference
06
12
A/W 18/19 Collection
Bibliography
Brand’s Strategy
According to the SuperGroup annual report
Fig 2. Retail performance
2017, the retail operating profit including E-commerce is £68.6 million and the retail operating profit in 2016 is £62.6 million which is growth 9.6%. (Fig 2) The following KPIs is showing that the Superdry performance of 2017. (Fig 3) Fig 3. Superdry KPIs
As Federico (2016) states, the growth of American apparel market was averaged approximately 3% each year. Besides, the Chinese market seems more energetic. Because the average growth of the apparel market in China is 10% per year in last five years. Sometimes, the market growth will jump like in 2014 which is increased to 18%. Follow this speed, China has caught up the American apparel market already. (para. 4-5) Therefore, China would expect to overtake the US as the world's largest apparel market by 2017. Because of the purchasing power and the apparel market growth in China, Superdry announces the joint venture with Trendy International Group and entered the China market in 2015. Fig 4. Total apparel sales between China and USA
Moreover, according to the SuperGroup
annual report 2017, there are opened five trial stores in May 2017 and three franchises in China to find more opportunity. (p. 27)
Fig 5. 2015 Superdry presence market
Further, the seven trial stores in North America opened by Superdry which enabled Superdry to experiment with different store formats in different types of location since set up the successful presence in North America is an important step to realizing the global ambition. That makes Superdry store number increased in the worldwide.
Fig 6. 2017 Superdry presence market
Fig 7. Superdry developing territories
Superdry is targeting to be a global lifestyle brand. Now they develop more breadth and nature of the product range and widening the appeal to a broader customer group. Moreover, Superdry classifies each territory by the stage who reaches in developing the brand. (Fig 7)
Strengths
Weaknesses
- Strong social media sense
- Price too high
- Quality fabrics with authentic vintage washes
- Hoodies & Tee so famous that ignore other
- More than 500 shops in 45 countries
product
- Emphasize on sustainability
- Not many layering provide to the customer
- Located in Hong Kong popular area
- No spokesperson in HK
Opportunities
Threats
- Cooperate with YouTubers/celebrities to attract - Competitors products were cheaper customers
- Fast fashion influence
- Competitive of Superdry is higher in Asia
- Less promotion than the competitor
market (e.g. not many competitors in HK)
- Competitor has many design layering that
- New customer service
attracts the customer - UK quit EU, affect company base Table 1. SWOT Analysis
With reference from the SWOT analysis in the comparative shop report, there are not
many layering or design of products provide to the customer and the price too high that comes to the conclusion as the weakness of Superdry. All of them would affect the customer making a purchase decision. Therefore, in the upcoming A/W 18/19 collection, there will provide more design or layering to the customer. Also, base on the price, this collection would try to decrease the cost but keep the product quality to attract more customers. Besides, as per analysis in Part 1, Asia market specifically China is a potential market that Superdry trying to capture. Thus, this collection will majorly target Asia market. Moreover, the sustainability policy of Superdry has been conspicuous between its competitors and there would be further development of the sustainability policy in product or promotion etc.
SWOT Analysis
Customer Situation According to SuperGroup annual report 2017 "Our target customers are characterized by attitude not age" (p. 9).
However, Superdry is using the young models to shoot the lookbook and advertisings etc. It seems that, they target on young adult aged 15 to 35 who have higher education level. Some of them maybe are the student or working in I.T. or fashion industry. The brand also targeted males that who are YOLO style, like sport, party with friends, pay attention to celebrities, try everything new and enjoys share their life on internet.
Fig 9. Men selecting product
Fig 10. Men in store
Fig 8. Customer Board
After the customer observation and staff interview in part 1, there is a gap between Superdry target customer and real customer. There is less student to visit the store, perhaps they came with their parents but they had not consumption. Most of the customers are from mainland China and aged 30-45. The foreigner customer is more than the locals. In the customer observation, we heard they thought Superdry is a young label, trendy and good quality which made them feel young.
The younger generation would spend more time to pay attention to the fashion and the celebrities dressing. To attract the younger like college students to buy, this collection would be based on the trends which are bold and brand characteristics to design.
Fashion Show Review A / W 17
In Autumn Winter 17/18, Fig 11. Markus Lupfer Style 1 Fig 12. Markus Lupfer Style 2
Fig 13. Tomorrowland Style 1 Fig 14. Tomorrowland Style 2
whether in menswear or womenswear, there are many brands using tartan and plaid checks, blurring the line between formal and casual. Moreover, most of the colors in nostalgic warm cinnamon and toffee tones are keys for the authentic vintage feel which is the popular keys in this season.
Fig 15. NOAH Style 1 Fig 16. NOAH Style 2
Fig 17. Michael Kors Style Fig 18. Stella McCartney Style
Fashion Show Review S / S 18 In S/S 18, the check and tartan plaid still common on
the runway. In addition to the base of black and nude color, the color of plaid has mixed with orange and red etc.
Fig 19. MGSM Style 1
Fig 21. No. 21 Style 1
Fig 22. No. 21 Style 2
Fig 20. MGSM Style 2
Fig 23. Gosha Rubchinskiy Style 1 Fig 24. Gosha Rubchinskiy Style 2
Fashion trend forecast is the most difficult and calculative
work, it bases on the consumer mood, behavior, culture, beliefs and geographic locations to do the prediction. It helps to predict the fashion industry future development. (Singh, [n.d.]) (para. 2-3) As Shaw and Koumbis claim, “Fashion buyers need to be fervent watchers of society and changing trends.� (p.29) It implies that trend forecast is not same in worldwide since the customer culture and behavior etc. But the result also needs to analysis to match social change and customer need. As Maria (2010) states that, every season would be introduced the new trends that in principle is a cycle to go until next season. In general, it is a lifespan cycle of the trend; the process consists of a rise, culmination and decrease.
Fig 25. SPRING FASHION TRENDS 2013
Color
According to the WGSN retail and buying report of color for A/W 18/19 that, the yellow tone has become popular such as Gen Z Yellow and Mimosa Yellow.
Fig 27. Mimosa Yellow
Trend Forecast
Fig 26. Gen Z Yellow
Moreover, bright and vibrant shades gain momentum as
consumers slowly but steadily embrace bolder colors. The neutral color tones such as camel and sand are overwhelmingly popular and move towards more classic. The warm neutral with the bright are creating a new color story that would influence A/W 18/19 which could complete the palette for a fresh.
Fig 28. Louis Vuitton
Fig 32. Bright & Neutral
Fig 30. Blue & Neutral Color
Fig 29. Ermenegildo Zegna
Fig 31. Baby Purple & Neutral Color
Trend Forecast
Trend Forecast Pattern
Fig 33. GALLOWAY PLAID Fig 35. Acne Studios Spring 18
Fig 34. Blue Check
In the fashion show of A/W 17, it seems that there are many different plaids. Due to check plaid is the popular pattern in every autumn winter. Therefore, the checks such as autumnal hues glen checks or warm tones library check would prevalent in A/W 18/19.
Trend Forecast Style Sport and College style is back.
The men who like streetwear with activewear and classic menswear that experimenting with new styling skills. They mix and match both of styles to create the new style and bring an exciting new look. They are wearing large insignia hoodies, pullover and bright color coat to make the mix and match and the layering which is highly personal and attractive. So that, Hoodies is on trend.
Fig 36. Fendi SS18
Fig 38. A/W17 AimĂŠ Leon Dore Style
Fig 37. A/W17 Noma t.d. Lookbook
A/W 18/19 Collection
A/W 18/19 Design Collection
Fig 39. A/W 18/19 Collection
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘06JAPAN’ Short Sleeve T-shirt
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMTK0688
Size range: XS-XL
Colors: Black Beauty / Dark Red
Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt
Fiber content: 100% Cotton Fiber sample:
Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘06JAPAN’ Short Sleeve T-shirt
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMTK0688
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application
Supplier
Cut Table Width
FOB Price- Yardage Yards yield/QTY
Finance Charge (%)
Amount
Full body
Kei Ngai
65”
$2.8
0.45
5%
$1.323
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
FABRIC DETAILS No. K6070
100% Cotton
GARMENT PACKAGING Main
100%
label with size
Polyester
Care & washing label
100% Polyester
Left bottom inner seam
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Hang tag with price
Organic materials
Back neck tape
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.015
1
-
$0.015
20”x27” x27”
-
Xiamen Weihua
-
$0.2
50pcs/ box
-
$0.004
Poly bag Carton box
TOTAL FABRIC COST
$1.323
CUT AND MAKE
$1.5
TOTAL TRIM
$0.1
EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING
$0.15 $1.1
TOTAL PACKAGING
$0.159
TOTAL FIRST COST
$4.332
DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST
Remarks: US Dollars
$0 $4.33
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Full length
23
24
25
26
27
28
Chest
32
34
36
38
40
42
Waist
30
32
34
36
38
40
Bottom
32
34
36
38
40
42
Straight armhole (point to point)
8
8
8 1/2
9
9
9 1/2
Sleeve length
7
7
7 1/2
8
8 1/2
9
Upper sleeve
13
13
13 1/2
14
14 1/2
15
Sleeve opening
12
12
12
12 1/2
12 1/2
13
Across shoulder
14
15
16
17
18
19
Front neck drop
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
4
Back neck drop
3
3
3
3
3
3
Height of collar/ Rib width
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘Super Big’ Short Sleeve T-shirt
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMTK0689
Size range: XS-XL
Colors: Night Sky(Black) / Snow White
Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt with pocket
Fiber content:
Garment care:
Full body - 96% Cotton 4% Spandex Pocket - 100% Cotton / 55% Linen 45% Cotton Fiber sample:
Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean
Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Super Big’ Short Sleeve T-shirt
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMTK0689
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit jersey short sleeve T-shirt with pocket
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application Supplier
Cut table FOB width price-yar ds
Yardage yield / QTY
Finance charge (%)
Amount
FABRIC DETAILS No. 30669
96% Cotton 4% Spandex
Full body
King Mei
64”
$3
0.5
5%
$1.58
No. K13081 / No. K13136
55% Linen 45% Cotton / 100% Cotton
Tai Wah
54”/ 57”
$1.3
0.02
5%
$0.027
GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size
100% Polyester
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
Care & washing label
100% Polyester
Left bottom inner seam
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Hang tag
Organic
Back neck
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
with price
materials
tape
Poly bag
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.015
1
-
$0.015
Carton box
20”x27” x27”
-
Xiamen Weihua
-
$0.2
50pcs/ box
-
$0.004
TOTAL FABRIC COST
$1.608
CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING
$1.6 $0.3 $0.12 $1.1 $0.159
TOTAL FIRST COST
$4.887
DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars
$0 $4.89
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Full length
23
24
25
26
27
28
Chest
32
34
36
38
40
42
Waist
30
32
34
36
38
40
Bottom
32
34
36
38
40
42
Straight armhole
8
8
8 1/2
9
9
9 1/2
Sleeve length
7
7
7 1/2
8
8 1/2
9
Upper sleeve
13
13
13 1/2
14
14 1/2
15
Sleeve opening
12
12
12
12 1/2
12 1/2
13
Across shoulder
14
15
16
17
18
19
Pocket length
5 1/2
5 1/2
5 1/2
5 1/2
5 1/2
6
Pocket width
5
5
5
5
5
5 1/2
Front neck drop
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
4
Back neck drop
3
3
3
3
3
3
Height of collar/ Rib width
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
(point to point)
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘Hip-hop Dry’ front shot back long T-shirt Season: A/W 18/19 Style number: AWMTK0700
Size range: XS-XL
Color: Goldenrod
Garment description: Knit jersey oversize, front shot back long t-shirt
Fiber content: 100% Cotton
Garment care:
Fiber sample:
Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Hip-hop Dry’ front shot back long T-shirt
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMTK0700
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit jersey oversize, front shot back long t-shirt
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application Supplier
Cut table FOB width price-yar ds
Yardage yield / QTY
Finance charge (%)
Amount
FABRIC DETAILS No. K6135(12)
100% Cotton
Full body
Kei Ngai
67”
$2.8
0.47
5%
$1.38
No. 24482
100% Cotton
Cuff
Hung Ming
57”
$0.7
0.03
5%
0.022
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
GARMENT PACKAGING Main label
100%
with size
Polyester
Care & washing label
100% Polyester
Left bottom inner seam
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Hang tag with price
Organic materials
Back neck tape
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Poly bag
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.015
1
-
$0.015
Carton box
20”x27” x27”
-
Xiamen Weihua
-
$0.2
50pcs/ box
-
$0.004
TOTAL FABRIC COST CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT
$1.4 $1.7 $0.4 $0.15
WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST
$1.3 $0.159 $5.109
DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars
$0 $5.11
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Front length
22
23
24
25
26
27
Back length
25
26
27
28
29
30
Chest
33
35
37
39
41
43
Waist
33
35
37
39
41
43
Bottom
33
35
37
39
41
43
Straight armhole (point to point)
8
8
8 1/2
9
9 1/2
10
Sleeve length
8
8
8
8
8
8
Upper sleeve
13 1/2
13 1/2
14
14 1/2
15
15 1/2
Sleeve opening
13
13
13 1/2
14
14 1/2
15
Across shoulder
16
17
18
19
20
21
Front neck drop
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/2
4
Back neck drop
3
3
3
3
3
3
Height of collar/ Rib width
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘Big original’ loose hoodie with elbow patch
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMHO988
Size range: XS-XL
Colors:
Garment description:
Tortilla Brown / Snow White
Knit loose hoodie
Fiber content: Full body - TC:65% Polyester 35% Cotton
Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C)
Elbow patch - 100% Cotton / 55% Linen 45% Cotton
Do not bleach
Fiber sample:
Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean
Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Big original’ loose hoodie with elbow patch
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMHO988
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit loose hoodie
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application
Supplier
Cut table width
FOB priceyards
Yardage Finance yield / QTY charge (%)
Amount
FABRIC DETAILS No. 90810
TC-65P35C
Full body
Mei Kei
72”
$3
1.36
5%
$4.284
No. 17971
100%
Elbow patch
Red Star
56”
$0.7
0.05
5%
$0.037
(Snow White)
Cotton
No. K13081 (Tortilla
55% Linen 45%
Elbow patch
Tai Wah
54”
$1.3
0.05
5%
$0.069
Brown)
Cotton
GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size
100% Polyester
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
Care & washing label
100% Polyester
Left bottom inner seam
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Hang tag with price
Organic materials
Back neck tape
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Poly bag
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.015
1
-
$0.015
Carton box
20”x27” x27”
-
Xiamen Weihua
-
$0.2
25pcs/ box
-
$0.008
TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Snow White) TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Tortilla Brown) CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT
$4.321 $4.353 $1.5 $0.5 $0.12
WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING
$1.3 $0.163
TOTAL FIRST COST (Snow White) TOTAL FIRST COST (Tortilla Brown)
$7.904 $7.936
DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST (Snow White) TOTAL LANEDED COST (Tortilla Brown) Remarks: US Dollars
$0 $7.9 $7.94
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Length
23
24
25
26
27
28
Chest
34
36
38
40
42
44
Waist
34
36
38
40
42
44
Hem
31
33
35
37
39
41
Straight armhole (point to point)
9
9
9 1/2
9 1/2
10
10
Sleeve length
23
24
24
24
25
25
Sleeve opening
8
8
8
8
9
9
Across shoulder
15 1/2
16
16 1/2
17
17 1/2
18
Hood opening
14 1/2
14 1/2
15
15
15
15 1/2
Hood width
10
10
10
10
10
10
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘Tokyo guy’ loose hoodie with kangaroo pocket
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMHO989
Size range: XS-XL
Colors:
Garment description:
Snow White / Sandstone
Knit loose hoodies with pocket
Fiber content: Full body - 68% Cotton 32% Polyester Pocket - 100% Cotton
Garment care: Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach
Fiber sample:
Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean
Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘Tokyo guy’ loose hoodie with kangaroo pocket
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMHO989
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit loose hoodies with pocket
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application
Supplier
Cut table width
FOB priceyards
Yardage yield / QTY
Finance charge (%)
Amount
FABRIC DETAILS No. 90632
68% Cotton 32% Polyester
Full body
Mei Kei
72”
$2.5
1.36
5%
$3.57
No. 24482
100% Cotton
Hung Ming
57”
$0.7
0.13
5%
$0.096
GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size
100% Polyester
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
Care &
100%
Left bottom
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
washing label
Polyester
inner seam
Hang tag with price
Organic materials
Back neck tape
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
Poly bag
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.015
1
-
$0.015
Carton
20”x27”
-
Xiamen
-
$0.2
25pcs/
-
$0.008
box
x27”
Weihua
box
TOTAL FABRIC COST CUT AND MAKE
$3.666 $1.5
TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST
$0.7 $0.1 $1.2 $0.163 $7.329
DUTY / QUOTA TOTAL LANEDED COST Remarks: US Dollars
$0 $7.33
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Length
23
24
25
26
27
28
Chest
34
36
38
40
42
44
Waist
34
36
38
40
42
44
Hem
31
33
35
37
39
41
Straight armhole (point to point)
9
9
9 1/2
9 1/2
10
10
Sleeve length
23
24
24
24
25
25
Sleeve opening
8
8
8
8
9
9
Across shoulder
15 1/2
16
16 1/2
17
17 1/2
18
Hood opening
14 1/2
14 1/2
15
15
15
15 1/2
Hood width
10
10
10
10
10
10
Pocket length
8
8
8
8
8
8
Upper pocket width
8 1/2
8 1/2
8 1/2
8 1/2
8 1/2
8 1/2
Lower pocket width
12
12
12
12
12
12
Product Specification Sketch:
Graphic:
Style name: ‘DRY83’ long hoodies with kangaroo pocket
Season: A/W 18/19
Style number: AWMHO990
Size range: XS-XL
Colors: Black Beauty / Goldenrod
Garment description: Knit long hoodies
Fiber content:
Garment care:
Full body - 100% Cotton Pocket - 85% Polyester 15% Rayon / 100% Cotton
Machine wash - cold (30°C) Do not bleach
Fiber sample:
Do not tumble dry Low iron Do not dry clean
Made in Bangladesh
Cost Sheet STYLE DETAILS Style name: ‘DRY83’ long hoodies with kangaroo pocket Season: A/W 18/19 Style number: AWMHO989
Country of origin: Bangladesh
Garment description: Knit long hoodies
Port: Hong Kong
Content
Application
Supplier
Cut table
FOB price-
Yardage yield /
Finance Amount charge
width
yards
QTY
(%)
FABRIC DETAILS No. 91198
100% Cotton
Full body
Mei Kei
72”
$4
1.35
5%
$5.67
No. 17971
100% Cotton
Red Star
56”
$0.7
0.05
5%
$0.037
85% Polyester 15% Rayon
Tai Wah
58”
$2.8
0.04
5%
$0.118
(Goldenrod) No. K11796 (Black Beauty)
GARMENT PACKAGING Main label with size
100% Polyester
Inner back
Lok Mei
-
$0.07
1
-
$0.06
Care &
100%
Left bottom
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
washing label
Polyester
inner seam
Hang tag
Organic
Back neck
Lok Mei
-
$0.04
1
-
$0.04
with price
materials
tape
Poly bag
-
-
Huakin
-
$0.01 5
1
-
$0.015
Carton box
20”x27”
-
Xiamen
-
$0.2
25pcs/
-
$0.008
x27”
Weihua
box
TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Goldenrod) TOTAL FABRIC COST (For Black Beauty) CUT AND MAKE TOTAL TRIM EMBELLISHMENT
$5.707 $5.778 $1.1 $0.7 $0.4
WASH & FINISHING TOTAL PACKAGING TOTAL FIRST COST (Goldenrod) TOTAL FIRST COST (Black Beauty) DUTY / QUOTA
$1.3 $0.163 $9.37 $9.441 $0
TOTAL LANEDED COST (Goldenrod) TOTAL LANEDED COST (Black Beauty) Remarks: US Dollars
$9.4 $9.44
Measurement Sheet Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch)
XXS
XS
S
M
L
XL
Length
27
28
29
30
30
31
Chest
32
34
36
38
40
42
Waist
32
34
36
38
40
42
Hem
32
34
36
38
40
42
Straight armhole (point to point)
9
9
9 1/2
9 1/2
10
10
Sleeve length
20
20 1/2
21
21 1/2
22
22 1/2
Sleeve opening
8
8
8
8
8
8 1/2
Across shoulder
15 1/2
16
16 1/2
17
17 1/2
18
Hood opening
14 1/2
15
15
15 1/2
15 1/2
16
Hood width
10
10
10
10
10
10
Pocket length
7 1/2
7 1/2
7 1/2
7 1/2
7 1/2
7 1/2
Upper pocket width
9
9
9
9
9
9
Lower pocket width
12
12
12
12
12
12
A/W 18/19 Collection Analysis
Fig 40. Superdry campaign AW16
Country of origin
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Table 2. Origin of A/W 18/19
As reported in the comparative shop report that, Superdry t-shirt is
manufacturing in Turkey and all the hoodies made in China. About Turkey, the labor costs in China less than half of Turkey's. And the fabric average cost of Turkey's is US$10 a kilogram, China's average is US$4 per kilo (Dearsley, 2016). It shows that the labor cost and fabric cost of Turkey are higher than China. The adequate and low-cost labor supply are the biggest strength of Chinese garment companies’ over the garment from other countries. (LIU and XING 2010, p.34) But Han [n.d.] states that "The regional governments across China were forced to increase their minimum wage in a bid to retain workers. Shanghai, which has the highest minimum wage in China, the minimum wage of month raises from US$170 in 2010 to US$327 in 2016. The minimum wage for most major cities of China also doubled to around US$239 per month in 2016. “ The labor salary is a heavy burden on production cost.
Fig 42. Labour cost comparison
Fig 40. The material and origin of Superdry products
Upon the above information, the new collection production would move to Bangladesh to manufacturing. The first reason is Bangladesh's labor cost is lower than the China or other producing countries. Moreover, there are almost 80 million people in Bangladesh which is a huge labor supply. (Kenix Lee, 2016)
Country of origin Furthermore, Bangladesh has a strong advantage in exports, since Bangladesh enjoying the duty-free access to major markets including the European Union, Japan and China currently (Kinex Lee, 2016). As the competitive labor cost and exempt of the export tax that the new collection selling price would be more reasonable.
Besides, Bangladesh is a key Belt and Road partner of China. Bangladesh is an important partner on the envisaged Bangladesh-China-India-Myanmar (BCIM) Economic Corridor. The Corridor will link up the key city such as India’s Kolkata, China’s Kunming, with Myanmar’s Mandalay and Bangladesh’s Dhaka. (Kenix Lee, 2016) It decreases the transportation fee and times, as well as Bangladesh, is very close to China include Hong Kong that Superdry could use the Just In Time inventory strategy to increase efficiency and decrease waste. This is a retailer-driven concept aimed at reducing costs for businesses in the supply chain (Barnes and Gaynor, 2006). These could be an advantage the new collection since the collection is focused on the Asian market.
Fig 43. Route of BCIM Economic Corridor
Fig 44. ETI
Although the labor right of Bangladesh is not good, Superdry is the member of the Ethical Trading Initiative adopted the ETI Base Code as the Ethical Trading Code across the supply base. Further, the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and the International Labour Organization’s Core Conventions on Labour Standards are used. Both would protect the workers and improve their live. (SuperGroup annual report 2017, p.29)
Since the trend of A/W 18/19
Tortilla Brown /
Sandstone /
Black Beauty /
Black Beauty /
Night Sky(Black) /
Snow White
Snow White
Goldenrod
Dark Red
Snow White
Goldenrod
Table 3. Color of A/W 18/19
Fig 45. Gretchen Jones at Fall 2012 NYFW use AirDye
In the future, there are many methods to reduce the water pollution which made by the garment industry. For example, AirDye is a dyeing technique is use air to scatter dye, instead of water. Use AirDye to dye that the colour would last longer and more resilient to chemicals as well as washings since it is embedded dye in textile fibers. (Kaye, 2013, para. 7) Gould (2014) claims that "AirDye technology could save up to 95% of the water, 86% of the energy and 84% of the greenhouse gases used in conventional print and dye methods." (para. 5)
is neutral and bright color. So that the neutral tone is the main color of the A/W 18/19 collection such as Goldenrod and Sandstone. The second color is Black beauty and Snow White as it is the timeless color. The fashion environmental impacts have increased, there is around 20% of industrial water pollution is from textile dyeing and treatment. (Gould, 2014, para.5) Although the neutral color mix with bright color in the garment is the trend, it would increase the tie dye process in fabric dye or fiber dye. Therefore, the new collection is not extensive to mix the neutral and bright as one.
Superdry is also seeking more innovative and sustainable solutions to protect the environment. The manufacturer of Superdry in Sri Lanka made the considerable investment in equipment to support lower impacts on water and energy usage by 2020. There is machine uses bubbles to apply the garment softeners which decreases around 90% water usage. (SuperGroup annual report 2017, p.30)
Color
The new collection base on the
brand DNA and the trend to design, provide more layer and more choice to the customer, especially the younger such as Gen Z. The hoodies of the new collection are designed to loose and oversize. The first design is the loose hoodies with the elbow patch, the elbow patch is using the glen plaid fabric which the popular pattern in A/W 18/19. Second is the different design of a kangaroo pocket, such as Sandstone color would mix with the bright tartan plaid. The color and pattern are on trend and still maintain the characteristic of Superdry. The last is a long hoodie with print and kangaroo pocket that Superdry has not produced before which can try to trial the market response.
Fig 46. Sketch of Collection
For the t-shirt, the first one is using different color and the fabric. The second is the glen plaid pocket on the left chest that Superdry less to produce. Also, the big and bright Superdry logo is eye-catching. The last one is front shot back long t-shirt in oversize like hip-hop style that is the layer Superdry never provide before. Further, the color is bold that could attract the younger. All the design match the A/W 18/19 trend in color, pattern and style. Besides, the design reserve the Superdry characteristic, Japanese-inspired, unique detailing and tailored fits etc.
Moreover, the hang tag of the new collection is using the environment-friendly material, the recycled paper and soy ink to make that could help to protect the environment. Fig 47. Lok Mei organic materials hang tag
Details
Sizing Grading Point of measure / Size (Inch) Full length Chest Waist Bottom Straight armhole (point to point) Sleeve length Upper sleeve Sleeve opening Across shoulder Front neck drop Back neck drop Height of collar/ Rib width Table 4. Size sample
As per SWOT analysis and the conclusion in competitive shop report that Superdry has already entered the Chinese market and it has not received much response. Because of we could not satisfy their need before, and now Superdry focus on the Chinese market and launch the new collection for the Asian. Although Superdry provides a wide range of sizes, the largest go to XXXL which can fit most of the body type. However, the smaller sizing is needed for Asian males since they are tiny when compare with the European customers. Thereby, the size chart would be down to XXS and provide the size from XXS to XL. Since XXL size is too big for the Asian, so it does not need to reserve. There are total six sizes would be offered in new collection to satisfy the target group demand.
Fig 48. Superdry AW11
Retail Planning
Price As per the competitive shop report, the target customer of Superdry is young adults.
The college student is the main target of this group. However, the products price before which is too high for them that some of them maybe could not afford. Due to the globalization and the popularity of online store etc. which make the customer can compare between "products and services with their prices" at the same time. Therefore, the marketers need to use a wiser method to pricing and attract the consumers (Hussain and Eman, 2016). In the new collection, in addition to the main target group, we also want to attract the Generation Z to be our new customer. Therefore, the new collection selling price would be lower than the collection before. However, the price would belong to customary pricing, it would near the past retail price range.
Fig 49. Retail price of the Superdry t-shirt and hoodies on online store
In Hong Kong, the t-shirt price is HK$450 (US$58) and the hoodies is HK$780 (US$100). On the online store, the average retail price of hoodies is US$100, and the average retail price of t-shirt is US$51.3. The price between Hong Kong as well as an official online store is almost in this range.
Fig 50. T-short & price tag in Hong Kong
Price As per the information above that, the suggested price would refer to the past retail price and the target customer can afford or not.
Suggested retail price US$85
US$95
US$95
US$45
US$48
(HK$663)
(HK$745)
(HK$745)
(HK$360)
(HK$375)
US$55 (HK$435) Table 5. Suggested retail peice
Fig 51. Price range of Superdry and competitors
Most of the new collection suggested retail price is lower the past retail price. Moreover, some of the new products retail price would more competitive with the competitors.
VM The excellent visual
merchandising displays would influence the consumer feeling and some of them may often buy the products unwittingly base on the current mood. (Hefer and Cant, 2013) Fig 52. Yuen Long YOHO store
Since the new collection focus on the young adults especially on the college student. Therefore, the visual merchandising plan to use the original color of the store and add the material of wood or brick to design like the old college in England to create the feeling of the old-style England college. Fig 53. Magdalen College, Founders Tower and Cloisters, Oxford England
For the window display, it would be created an old-style book wall. Also, the man mannequin would wear the new collection and the Superdry pack back on the shoulder. The vintage wood table would place in front of the door and the new collection would put on it. The neutral tone glen plaid to decorate the cashier could increase the atmosphere and lead the customer into this environment. Moreover, music and smell also can contribute the mood. Create the Superdry own flavor such as the taste of wood and playing the slow and calming music in the store to impress the customers. Fig 54. Old library
Packaging Retailers can improve the environmental such as produce the product with fewer
resources or without harmful substances and replace the traditional product; there would be the positive environmental impact. (The Danish Environmental Protection Agency, [n.d.])
For the new collection, the new paper shopping bag would be launch, the new paper bag makes by an organic paper that we would just print the logo on it and would not design much more. Also, it can recyclable which is less to destroy the environment.
Fig 55. Superdry original paper bag
Fig 56. Brown recycled paper bag
Promotion Social Media Since the target customer of Superdry is young adults, the promotional method should close
to their lifestyle or living habit. Let's the target easier to get our information. The young adults include Millennials and Gen Z, both group are born in the boom of digital technology. Gen Z most spend time on their smartphone and Gen Y most spend time on the desktop that to get the information. Also, the social media they use daily are Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Snapchat. Facebook is the top social media in Gen Y. Use percentage of YouTube and Facebook are similar in Gen Z. Also, Instagram and Snapchat in Gen Z are lower than Facebook, but the used percentage is more than Gen Y.
Fig 57. Gen Y and Gen Z devivces
Fig 58. Social Media
As Andrus (2015) point out, Gen Z prefers Images more than text since the short and honeyed content attract Gen Z. So, it is no wonder that YouTube, Instagram and Snapchat ranked so high with them.
Promotion As per the above information, Youtube and Instagram are the most should be used to promote our new collection since these platforms are the most popular in Gen Y and Z. To increase the discussion of new collection, we can hold some activities online. For example, the online campaign before called ‘Superdry Tweet Fuel’ on Twitter to create the brand awareness. We can launch the event on Weibo that the people hashtags like #Superdry, #AW1819Dry and #NeutralSuperdry, after confirmed they follow our official Weibo we would draw out the lucky person to send the new collection product to them.
Celebrity
Fig 59. Superdry Tweet Fuel
Also, as the Superdry do not have the spokesperson
even in England, we can invite the Hong Kong celebrity to be the spokesperson for this collection. The best is Matthew Ho (何廣沛) since he is new and popular male artist in Hong Kong, his image is healthy and energetic which is match our brand.
Fig 60. Matthew Ho
Conclusion To conclude, in the investigation of comparative shop report, it is discovered that
Superdry needs to provide more creative design and layer to the customer. Further, it found that although Superdry entered Asian market before, it does not get much response. One of the reasons is we did not know the customers need. So, now Superdry should more focus on Asian market to develop this huge potential market. Through the research and analysis of customer and the recent fashion trend, it is found that the customer hobby on fashion that the coming season collection would meet their need. Further, Superdry have consummate sustainability policy. However, the upstream sustainability can be more improve such as using the eco-friendly material to produce the garment. Downstream sustainability would change the original paper bag to organic paper bag. It is believed that Superdry would able to be the strong global lifestyle brand with perfect sustainability policy.
(2647 words)
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Photo Reference Fig 29. Vogue, 2017. Ermenegildo Zegna [digital image]. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/ermenegildo-zegna/slideshow/collection#2 [Accessed 22 November 2017]. Fig 30. María Bernad, 2017. Blue & Neutral Color [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BaPawgUgpKK/?taken-by=maria_bernad [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 31. Nane Feist, 2017. Baby Purple & Neutral Color [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BR1AIEJhTtr/?hl=zh-tw&taken-by=nanefeist [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 32. ELLEUK, 2017. Bright & Neutral [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/120541727507163413/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 33. BRITTFURN, 2017. GALLOWAY PLAID [digital image]. Available at: https://www.brittfurn.se/p/tyger-2164/tillverkare-2237/colefax-fowler-2240/colefax-fowler-tyg-galloway-plaid-natural.html [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 34. BEAMS, 2017. Blue Check [digital image]. Available at: http://www.beams.co.jp/item/beamsplus/shirt/11114390965/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 35. Vogue, 2017. Acne Studios Spring 18 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/373446994093714975/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 36. Vogue, 2017. Fendi SS18 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/fendi/slideshow/collection#21 [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 37. Noma t.d., 2017. A/W17 Noma t.d. Lookbook [digital image]. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/zh/2017/2/noma-t-d-fw17 [Accessed 18 November 2017]. Fig 38. Aimé Leon Dore, (2017), A/W17 Aimé Leon Dore Style [digital image]. Available at: https://www.aimeleondore.com/pages/autumn-winter-2017 [Accessed 18 November 2017]. Fig 39. A/W 18/19 Collection, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 40. Superdry, 2016. Superdry campaign AW16 [digital image]. Available at: http://www.net-kadin.com/includes/templates/pro-59/images/M59_flash3.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 46. Sketch of Collection, Author’s own, 2017 Fig 47. Lok Mei, 2017. Lok Mei organic materials hang tag [digital image]. Available at: https://lokmeico.en.alibaba.com/productshowimg/440448976-212155992/Recycle_Hang_Tags_Organic_materials.html?spm=a2700.8304367.prge37c812.2.23c14306Mc6VCB [Accessed 22 November 2017]. Fig 48. Superdry, 2011. Superdry AW11 [digital image]. Available at: https://www.thefashionisto.com/louis-simonon-tom-barker-by-jacob-sutton-for-superdry-usa-fall-2011-campaign/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 49. Superdry, 2017. Retail price of the Superdry t-shirt and hoodies on online store [digital image]. Available at: https://www.superdry.com/mens [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 50. T-short & price tag in Hong Kong, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 51. Price range of Superdry and competitors, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 52. Yuen Long YOHO store, Author’s own, 2017. Fig 53. JANELLE DAVIS, 2013. Magdalen College, Founders Tower and Cloisters, Oxford England [digital image]. Available at: http://indianapublicmedia.org/harmonia/henry-honest-dan/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 54. Anon., [n.d.], Old library [digitial image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/407716572486727972/. [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 55. Elaine, [n.d.], Superdry original paper bag [digital image]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/333759022356778605/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 56. Party Ark, 2017. Brown recycled paper bag [digital image]. Available at: https://www.partyark.co.uk/static/zoom/11817.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 57. Matt Kleinschmit, 2015. Gen Y and Gen Z devivces [digital image]. Available at: https://www.visioncritical.com/generation-z-infographics/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 58. Matt Kleinschmit, 2015. Social Media [digital image]. Available at: https://www.visioncritical.com/generation-z-infographics/ [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 59. Brand movers India, 2012. Superdry Tweet Fuel [digital image]. Available at: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/woCiiNJ8qL0/maxresdefault.jpg [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Fig 60. Matthew Ho, 2017. Matthew Ho [digital image]. Available at: https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/14719599_1826039071007753_4153958077948755968_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTM3NzM0MDU0NTU2Mjk3MDMzM Q%3D%3D.2 [Accessed 23 November 2017]. Table 1. SWOT Analysis, Author’s own, 2017. Table 2. Origin of A/W 18/19, Author’s own, 2017. Table 3. Color of A/W 18/19, Author’s own, 2017. Table 4. Size sample, Author’s own, 2017. Table 5. Suggested retail price, Author’s own, 2017.
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