Lau Lok Yi Moon 177281160 N0776463 IFB
Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Hong Kong Design Institute
ba
ifb
2017 / 2018
Module: Fashion Buying Module reference: FASH30007
IVE
Module Leader: LEE, Vivian
Module Name Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.
Signed ………………………………………………………………(Full Name)………………Lau Lok Yi………………… Date …………………………25-10-17………………………………… (Word Count: __1843 WORDS___)
Contents 1. Introduction 2. Company Profile - Company Background - Sustainability Policy - Buying Merchandising Cycle - Hong Kong Store Location 3. Customer Profile - Target Customer - Customer Observations - Gap Analysis 4. Competitor Profile 5. Comparison - Product, price & material - VM 6. Competitive Environment - Perceptual Map - PEST Analysis - SWOT Analysis 7. Conclusions & Recommendations 8. Reference 9. Bibliography 10. Appendix
Fig 1. Superdry men
Introduction Superdry is the core brand in this comparative shop report. It will be studied with Hollister, Quiksilver and Jack Wills as its competitors for comparison. Both of them are international brands that are Upper to middle market level, target customers are young adults and have the physical store in Hong Kong. In this report, it will focus on men's knitwear. As Tee and Hoodie are the signatures product of Superdry, so they are selected as the specified product to compare with the competitors.
Fig 2. Superdry
Fig 3. Hollister
Fig 4. Quiksilver
Fig 5. Jack Wills
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Company Profile Company Background Superdry is own by SuperGroup Ltd. which was initially set up by Julian Dunkerton. It is a British international clothing company. According to founder - James Holder (as cited in Luu, 2010) "I loved the look of Japanese streetwear, with its graphic prints and bright colors, and knew it was the direction I wanted Superdry to take."(para. 8) Superdry inspired by Tokyo and fusing iconic
Fig 6. Founders
vintage Americana and high-impact Japanese graphic imagery with a British twist and that build up the brand identity and the unique selling point of Superdry. The first store opened in 2004 in Covent Garden, London. Nowadays, Superdry operating more than 500 Superdry branded locations in 46 countries. Moreover, Superdry.com sells safely and securely to over 100 countries worldwide, operating from 21 international websites.
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Company Profile Sustainability Material sourcing
- Bought 24.4 million garments containing cotton in 2017 – this represents 74% of all pieces bought - Set the challenge to use 100% organic cotton Superdry garments by 2040
Animal
- Use both down and synthetic fillers in the outerwear - Small part of our total product collection (approx.1.5%) - Certified by the Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
Environment
- 100% renewable electricity for our stores and offices by 2020 - 100% renewable electricity in our franchises and distribution centers by 2030 - 100% renewable electricity in our main suppliers’ businesses by 2040 - Group GHG emission intensity (emissions
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per £million of revenue) showed a year on year decrease of 22%
Employee
- Adopted the ETI Base Code as our Ethical Trading Code - Support access to fair and safe working
conditions across the supply base in line with Ethical Trading Code
- Established policies to ensure any vulnerable groups of people are protected
Community
- Community efforts into a partnership with The Prince’s Trust
- Aim to help 100,000 young people break out of the cycle of disadvantage and poverty Table 1. Sustainability Policy of Superdry
Company Profile BM Cycle Here is the buying merchandising cycle of Superdry AW 18/19 as below.
Fig 7. BM Cycle
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Company Profile HK Store Location YOHO Mall: Shop 1083, L1, Yoho Mall, 9 Yuen Lung Street, Yuen Long Tuen Mun: Shop 3287-3288, 3/F, Tuen Mun Town Plaza, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Sha Tin: Shop A323, Level 3, New Town Plaza Phase 111, Sha Tin MOKO: Shop 201-202, 2/F, Moko, Mongkok Nathan Road: G/F,176 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Ocean Terminal: Shop F1, LCX, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui Hysan Place: Shop 506, 5/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay Sogo: 3/F, Sogo, 555 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay Millennium City: Shop L3-8, Level 3, APM, Millennium City 5, Kwun Tong City Plaza: Shop 035, G/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing Metro City Plaza: Shop 1157-1159, Metro City Plaza, Phase Iii, Tseung Kwan O
There are 11 specialty stores in Hong Kong and both of the stores are in popular shopping malls and tourist areas.
Fig 8. Moko store
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Customer Profile Target Customer To quote Kendall (2009),� In general, there are two main ways of identifying specific consumer group: demographics and psychographics.� (p.63) Gender
Man
Age Group
Young adult (15-35)
Education
High school or above
Occupation
I.T./Fashion/Student
Income class
Lower middle income
Lifestyle
Party with friend, enjoys going online,
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share their life, out-going, pay attention to celebrities, focus on fashion Characters Table 2. Target customer
Yolo, self-center
Customer Profile Target Customer According to Maslow (1943), "The most basic level of needs must be met before the individual will strongly desire (or focus motivation upon) the secondary or higher-level needs." Superdry target customer should be in "Esteem needs". However, which Maslow classified Esteem needs into two categories. Superdry target customer would in the second categories: the desire for reputation or respect from others (e.g., status, prestige)." Maslow (1987) pointed out most behavior is multi motivated and states that “Any behavior tends to be determined by several or all of the basic needs simultaneously rather than by only one of them” (p. 71). So, they are looking for meet "Self-actualization"
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As Kendall (2009) observes,"[Early Majority] does accept new products, ideas, and brands, although usually only after being influenced by early adopters. This group is considered to comprise about 34 to 35 percent of consumers"(p. 73) In addition, according to Staff (2017), this segment of person is not rich and less educated than the innovators and early adopters. However, they are willing to try the new product. (para. 1) Most of the Superdry customer should be Early Majority. Fig 9.The diffusion of innovation
Customer Profile Customer Observations
Fig 8. Moko store
Details Date
25-9-17
Time
2pm-3pm
Location
Shop 201-202, 2/F, Moko, Mongkok
Number of customers
25
Male to female ratio Age range Findings
3 8:2
30-50
- Some of the male customers came with their girlfriend or wife
- Most of them are looking for the functional jacket and t-shirt - A few male customers are looking for the jeans - Four male customers try on jackets and
jeans - Three male customers total bought 9 items include jacket Table 3. Customer of Moko store
Customer Profile Customer Observations
Fig 10. YOHO store
Details Date
29-9-17
Time
5pm-6pm
Location
Shop 1083, L1, Yoho Mall I, 9 Yuen Lung
3 Street, Yuen Long
Number of customers Male to female ratio Age range Findings
10
7:3
15-45
- Both are looking for the t-shirt and Hoodie, some of them are looking for the OSAKA 6 t-shirt
- A few of the customer is looking for the backpack - Female customer would pay attention to accessories - No customer try any item Table 4. Customer of YOHO store
Customer Profile
The target customer of Superdry is the young adult around 15-35 such as university student. However, in this twice observation could found that, most of the Superdry customer around 30 or above as well as most of them from Mainland China not local. Moreover, there is the student to visit Superdry store, but they had not consumption. 80% of the customer paid attention to Tee and functional jacket. Only a few customers would be paid attention to the jeans that proved that other product line was ignored by the customer. In addition, we heard the male customers who are 30 or above, said that Superdry is a young label, trendy, funny and good quality which made them feel young and following trend. At the same time, we invite the Superdry staff of Yuen Long to have the interview.
Gap Analysis According to the staff, we learned that most of Superdry's customer is over 35 years old and few are students. Also, the students come to shop with their parents. On the other hands, the customers from Mainland China are more than the local customers. The staff state that more than half customer told them; Superdry products are the great design and functional which is match price and quality. The customers also shopping in the competitor shop such as Hollister.
Although Superdry is more expensive, the product is the most they are satisfied. In the interview, we knew that most popular clothing in Superdry is OSAKA 6 t-shirt and functional jacket. As staff claims, "There was a customer to buy 4 pieces of different color OSAKA 6 t-shirt and leave." (Appendix) As the result, that makes something different with the target customer of Superdry.
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Fig 11. Men in store
Fig 12. Student with parents
Fig 13. A men selecting product
Competitor Profile Hollister Fig 14. Hollister Logo
Hollister is an American lifestyle brand own by Abercrombie & Fitch Co (A&F) and launch in 2000. The brand image is casual, California, summer, beach and sexy. They originally designed to attract customers aged 14-18, at a lower price point than the parent brand - A&F through its SoCal-inspired image and casual wear. There are 3 stores in Hong Kong. Jack Wills Fig 15. Jack Wills Logo
Jack Wills is a British clothing brand launched in 1999. The main colors of the brand are recognized for navy and pink. Jack Wills target on high school and university students, using the slogan and trademark "University Outfitters" to reflect the inspiration behind the brand. There are 5 stores in Hong Kong. Quiksilver Fig 16. Quiksilver Logo
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Quiksilver Inc. is an American retail sporting company, founded in Australia. Now based in California and launch in 1969. They are one of the world's largest manufacturers of surfwear and other boardsport-related equipment. Quiksilver has 7 stores in Hong Kong and two brands - Roxy and Quiksilver operate simultaneously in the shop.
Fig 17. Hollister model
Fig 18. Quiksilver model
Fig 19. Jack Wills Model
Comparison Product, price & material
For t-shirt Superdry
Hollister
Jack Wills
Quiksilver
Color
Snowy Navy
Black
Navy
Blue
Price
$400
$150
$370
$268
Origin
Made in Turkey Made in Vietnam Made in
Product
Made in China
5 Portugal
Fabric
100% Cotton
60% Cotton
100% Cotton
100% Cotton
XXS-XXL
S-XL
40% Polyester Size Table 5. T-shirt comparison
XS-XXXL
XS-XXL
Comparison Product, price & material
For hoodies Superdry
Hollister
Jack Wills
Quiksilver
State Red
Grey
Olive
Dye Grey
$530
$810
$598
Product
Color
SpaceDye Retail Price
$780
Origin
Made in China Made in China Made in
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Made in India
Portugal
Fabric
60% Cotton
70% Cotton
75% Cotton
100% Cotton
40% Polyester 30% Polyester 25% Polyester Size Table 6. Hoodies comparison
S-XXXL
XS-XXL
XXS-XXL
S-XL
Comparison VM Superdry
Both of Superdry store have the t-shirt wall panel. Now, the main window display is the man jacket line and the other window is showing the backpack. On the other hand, They putting the men products in the front of the store. The product of men is more than women product. In addition, the store has music and without any scent.
Fig 8. Moko store
5 Fig 10. YOHO store
Fig 20. T-shirt wall
Hollister
Hollister store which located in Yuen Long is playing the music. The environment is a little bit dark and you could smell some aroma. The window displays mainly the denim product and put the men and women mannequin together. They were launching the sales promotion at that time.
Fig 21. YOHO Hollister
Comparison VM Jack Wills
The front of the store is womenswear and the menswear is behind. The brand image of Jack Wills is a docile, elegant and English style that you can feel in their store but the store was no music and no aroma. They put the man and woman mannequin which wearing classic style in the window. The products of females are more than males’ products. Quiksilver
Fig 23. APM Quiksilver
Fig 22. YOHO Jack Wills
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In Quiksilver store of Kwun Tong APM, the store a little bit messy. You could find that they sell the summer and winter products at the same time. The mannequins are wearing the winter products. However, the front table of a store is selling the t-shirt and the shorts. On the other hand, a store is playing music and without any scent.
Competitive Environment Perceptual Map For t-shirt
Fig 24. T-shirt positioning map
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Here is the positioning map of Superdry t-shirt. Superdry is under Jack Wills since the t-shirt is cheaper than Jack Wills but the quality is similar. Hollister t-shirt is most cheap.
Competitive Environment Perceptual Map For hoodies
Fig 25. Hoodies positioning map
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The second positioning map is for hoodies. In this category, Jack Wills is cheaper than Superdry but the quality is better than Superdry. Both of them are expensive than Quiksilver and Hollister. But the hoodies of Quiksilver has the best quality in these four brands since their hoodie made of 100% cotton.
Competitive Environment PEST Analysis Political
Economic
- International copyright treaties
- HK’s economy grew year by year
- Sweatshop/factory
The latest economic growth forecast for
- One belt one road
2017 is raised
- UK quit EU
- Price level up then purchasing power
- HK statutory min. wage increased
down (Fung, 2017)
Social
Technological
- Online ads (YouTube etc.)
- AR/VR/MR
- Social network made a new culture - 3D ads billboard
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(BreakthroughYouth Research Archives, - 3D printing fashion 2016)
- UltraBOOST Uncaged Parley
- HK's population risen year by year made the sneaker by plastic waste Table 7. PEST Analysis
This PEST Analysis is focused on Hong Kong market.
Competitive Environment SWOT Analysis Strengths
Strong social media sense: Superdry is a young brand grow up with the digital consumer, they know how to catch the target customer attention. In 2012, Superdry wanted to enter India. For this, they launched a unique online campaign on Twitter called ‘Superdry Tweet Fuel’. This provided a unique chance for the viewers to express themselves by tweeting, where their tweets will be converted into fuel for the car and win
many exciting prizes like Superdry branded clothing. This campaign generated over 2600 tweets and more than 5.4 million impressions with a total reach of 1.5 million plus people in 5 days. As Bhargava (2014) states," Superdry's case again highlights the power of social media marketing."(Key findings pt.1) Superdry has been successful in the social network to attract consumer attention before would be seen.
Quality fabrics with authentic vintage washes: Superdry is characterized the fabrics are high quality that customer agrees and would recommend to a friend. According to the reviews snapshot of Superdry official and the Supergroup annual report 2015.
6 Fig 26. Twitter campaign
Fig 27. Reviews snapshot
Competitive Environment SWOT Analysis Weakness
Hoodies & t-shirt so famous that ignore other product: According to Lloyd (as cited in Johnson, 2014) “We have three key product lines – the windcheater, hoodies and t-shirt but we actually have more than 2000 pieces in our range but three products are defining us.” (Ans no.4) This three-product line was defining Superdry image and position that another products line is ignored by the customer. Opportunities
Superdry has high competition in Asia: According to Wade (as cited in Fox, 2011) "We can find no precedent for a UK brand successfully combining longevity with selling overtly branded fashion to the mass market"(para. 6) There are not many similar brands in Hong Kong or Asia that Superdry would have higher competitive in these brands.
Price too high: Target customer of Superdry is young adults from 15 to 35, some of them would not afford to buy the product since the price is too high.
Fig 28. Youtuber DingDing x Lancome
6 Fig 29. Actor YuManLok (Madness) x VANS
Cooperate with YouTubers/celebrities: Youtuber, actor and celebrities etc. have a big influence on the younger. Crossover or any cooperate with them could attract the potential customer and make some noise.
Competitive Environment SWOT Analysis Threats
Fast fashion influence: Fast fashion brand such as H&M have the similar products. Their product price lower than Superdry that some customer would be attracted to them.
Fig 30. H&M product
Competitors’ products were cheaper: As you can see the previous table, Hollister and Quiksilver have the same product categories with Superdry which are cheaper than Superdry.
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Conclusions&Recommendations Conclusion In this comparative report, t-shirt and hoodies are the main compare items selected from Superdry, Hollister, Jack Wills and Quiksilver and being compared in terms of price, material and origin. Visual merchandising also compared in this report. Logo t-shirt as a comparison, Superdry t-shirt, and Jack Wills, Quiksilver are 100% cotton which is better than the Hollister t-shirt material. Perhaps Superdry's t-shirts are made from Turkey, which is slightly cheaper than Jack Wills made from Portugal. About hoodies, Jack Wills is slightly expensive than Superdry, and both of their hoodies material are mixed with cotton and polyester. Quiksilver's hoodies made of 100% cotton which is the best quality. In this category, the price of Quiksilver is between Superdry and Jack Wills. Superdry provides a wide range of sizes, the largest go to XXXL which can fit everyone body type. Superdry is most expensive in hoodies category and it made in China. Also, cotton in hoodies is relatively less than other brands. After comparison, the consumer maybe chooses other brands to shop. There are 11 Superdry specialty stores in Hong Kong, more than other competitive brands. Most of the store located in popular areas, which means that Superdry still has a market in Hong Kong. For the visual merchandising, Superdry can do better to show the brand image in the store like Hollister, using smell to make the consumer more impressed. At late, Superdry has the more comprehensive sustainable policy. According to SWOT Analysis, the strengths of Superdry are great product quality and design as well as the strong social media sense. For the weakness, the price is too high that some target customer cannot afford. Also, the famous product made customer ignores other product. They have a lot of opportunities, such as crossover with celebrities and expand the Asian market etc. The threat is fast fashion influence and other.
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Conclusions&Recommendations Recommendations As saturation in the foreign market, it is a good time to focus on the Asia market in regarding of their strong purchasing power. Although Superdry has already entered the Hong Kong market in 2011 and Chinese market in 2015, it has not received much response. In fact, most of the Asian young adults tend to buy the foreign brands for their excellent design, good quality and celebrity effects. Moreover, Superdry could be based on the Generation Z (around 15-22) lifestyle and their trend to design the new products. Also, using social networking to launch activities and do the promotion to attract the potential customers. In the store, provide a better shopping experience to the customers.
Fig 35. Superdry China store
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Photo Reference Fig 1. Anon., (2017), Superdry men [digital image]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/39/8f/49/398f4958212efcdd0d7bfa8b4d11b44b.jpg [Accessed 19 October 2017]. Fig 2. Superdry, (2017), Superdry [digital image]. Available at: https://image1.superdry.com/static/images/products/upload8808739527764534255.jpg [Accessed 19 October 2017]. Fig 3. Hollister, (2017), Hollister [digital image]. Available at: http://anf.scene7.com/is/image/anf/hol_172409_03_model1?$dwHCO-productMain-v1$ [Accessed 18 October 2017]. Fig 4. Surfdome, (2017), Quiksilver [digital image]. Available at: https://asset1.surfcdn.com/quiksilver-hoodies-quiksilver-everyday-hoody-navy-blazer.jpg?w=1200&h=1200&r=4&q=80&o=xEGPJ4EyZ@ikk3O@ygjcRh7QSacj&V=IENU [Accessed 19 October 2017] Fig 5. Jack Wills, (2017), Jack Wills [digital image]. Available at: http://www.jackwills.hk/dw/image/v2/AATI_PRD/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-master_catalog/default/dwfc98ba6f/ProductImages/10001325303.jpg?sw=1000&sh=1500&sm=fit[Accessed 18 October 2017]. Fig 6. VICTORIA GALLAGHER, (2012), Founders [digital image]. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/pictures/980x653fitpad[31]/9/9/4/1283994_JulianDunmerton-and-JamesHolder-Superdry.jpeg [Accessed 19 October 2017]. Fig 7. Own photo, (2017), BM Cycle Fig 8. Own photo, (2017), Moko store Fig 9. Ben Lynch, (2017), The diffusion of innovation [digital image]. Available at: https://blog.jude.io/its-your-data-fill-your-boots-71ed7ff26cc3 [Accessed 18 October 2017]. Fig 10. Own photo, (2017), YOHO store Fig 11. Own photo, (2017), Men in store Fig 12. Own photo, (2017), Student with parents Fig 13. Own photo, (2017), A men selecting product Fig 14. Elena, (2017), Hollister Logo [digital image]. Available at: http://data.whicdn.com/images/65914605/large.jpg [Accessed 18 October 2017]. Fig 15. Intu, (2017), Jack Wills Logo [digital image]. Available at: https://intu.co.uk/uploads/media/logo_retailer/0001/05/thumb_4114_logo_retailer_1x.png [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 16. Westfield, (2017), Quiksilver Logo [digital image]. Available at: https://res-4.cloudinary.com/wlabs/image/fetch/c_pad,f_auto,q_auto/http://res.cloudinary.com/wlabs/image/upload/pjp1yilkrvsi5ul7ls4j.png[Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 17. Fotos Tios Buenos, (2017), Hollister model [digital image]. Available at: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BMGdlNyCUAAE7yd.jpg [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 18. Nate Smith, (2013), Quiksilver model [digital image]. Available at: http://cdn2.theinertia.com/wp-content/gallery/ns950/MS0Z1105.jpg [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 19. Jack Wills, (2015), Jack Wills model [digital image]. Available at: http://static.fashionbeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/willssummer3.jpg [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 20. Own photo, (2017), T-shirt wall Fig 21. Own photo, (2017), YOHO Hollister Fig 22. Own photo, (2017), YOHO Jack Wills Fig 23. Own photo, (2017), APM Quiksilver Fig 24. Own photo, (2017), T-shirt positioning map Fig 25. Own photo, (2017), Hoodies positioning map Fig 26. Mayank Bhargava, (2014), Twitter campaign [digital image]. Available at: http://www.digitalvidya.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/contributors-superdry-300x252.jpg [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 27. Superdry, (2017), Reviews snapshot [digital image]. Available at: https://www.superdry.com/mens/t-shirts/details/67170/shirt-shop-fade-t-shirt- [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 28. Ding Ding, (2017), Youtuber DingDing x Lancome [digital image]. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/ding_2/ [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 29. Candymumu, (2017), Actor YuManLok (Madness) x VANS [digital image]. Available at: http://candymumu311.pixnet.net/blog/post/339733619-%E3%80%90%E8%B2%B7%E6%9D%B1%E8%A5%BF%E3%80%91mdns-x-vans-sk8-hi-madness%E4%BD%99%E6%9 6%87%E6%A8%82-%E8%81%AF%E4%B9%98%E7%B3%BB[Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 30. H&M, (2017), H&M product [digital image]. Available at: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/men/shop-by-product/hm-sport.html [Accessed 20 October 2017]. Fig 31. Jinho, (2017), Superdry China store [digital image]. Available at: http://www.china-ef.com/20170921/614016.html [Accessed 20 October 2017].
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Appendix
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Appendix Superdry staff interview Date: 29-9-2017 Store location: Yuen Long YOHO Mall Time: 5:00pm-5:15pm Lau Lok Yi = L, Staff Ken=K L: Hi, May I ask you some question about the customer and the product? K: Yes, of course. What do you want to know? L: What is the age group of Superdry's customer? K: Most of them are 34,35 or above. Sometimes have students, but a few only. They would come with their father or mother. L: Does the local customer more than the foreign? K: No, the customer from China is more than the local. L: How about the product? What is the most popular? K: The most popular are OSAKA 6 t-shirt and functional jacket. Someone bought 4 pieces of OSAKA 6 t-shirt to go. L: What does the customer feel about the product? K: The customer feels our products are the great design and functional made them feel young. Also, they think the price and quality match. L: Do you know would they go to the other brands to shop? Such as Jack Wills, Hollister? K: Yeah, I knew! They would go to Hollister in this mall. They told us that they tried but not satisfied. They were not satisfied with the product quality. L: Would they say "Superdry is a little bit expensive"? K: Somebody would say our products are expensive. However, they bought our product when our shop provides the sale discount. I think they like our products and quality, just because the price so that they do not buy. L: I got that! That's all. Thank you for your help.
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