Sentient Fashion Magazine by Laura Arnold

Page 1

Sentient Is feminism causing genderless behaviour?




Is feminisim causing

genderless behaviour?


Sentient

The gender blurring issue

In a (western) world what has evolved so drastically over the last decade, I look at how the fight for women’s rights has changed the way we think, how roles are reversing and if in fact, women are now taking it too far. No longer is there a need to fight for fairness, women in their own right are achieving success in high-paid roles. But what I question is, now that we have gained equality, are we now fighting for superiority?

LAURA ARNOLD, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF


What ’s inside

The Man’s Role In Society | Page 8

Feminism Within Fashion | Page 14

Interview: Steven Saunders | Page 10

Interview: Amy Arnold | Page 16


The Modern Woman | Page 21

Society Today |

Interview: Laura Mar | Page 23

Interview: Don Jerimiah | Page 26

Page 24

Interview: David Melia | Page 30


The Man’s Role In Society I’m a modern girl. I’m independent and I’m engaged. I have worked my way up to management level within retail and now I’m currently studying for a degree in fashion. I know I can take care of myself but you can call me old-fashioned too. It’s fine. I appreciate certain aspects of feminism but I also don’t mind gender roles. I like it when a man volunteers to open a door for me, or insists on carrying all of the shopping bags. The majority of women I know are a little like that too. We love our modern independence in life and in love, but deep down, we want guys to treat us like ladies. As most women will agree, over the years it’s become increasingly rare. But why is it becoming hard to find? Is chivalry dying? Or does it have something to do with feminism? For as long as time can tell it has been a man’s duty to provide for his family and to achieve this a man has had to work hard to earn money, pay the bills and put bread on the table. Over generations skill and trade has been passed down to their son’s and their grandson’s, often a trade would run through a family and it is this what led to surnames such as Smith, Potter, Cooper and Mason. But feminist women are no longer allowing this which is causing men to take on “the female role” causing them

to lose their identity. And with the rise of acceptance for the gay community, trans-gender and cross dressing have become popular. This and feminism has resulted in the blurred lines between a man’s role in society. But what is the female role? Traditionally the woman was expected to stay at home and look after the children, do the housework, clean and iron the clothes and serve a decent meal for dinner. But over time, with there being more successful business-women living independently, not settling down and having a family, providing for themselves and doing what they want in life; this has allowed for roles to reverse. Now men are able to spend more time and play an active role in their children’s lives. They are able to be more independent at home cooking and doing their own ironing. Men like this, it makes them feel good (for most men at least). Especially because men only get 2 weeks paternity leave while women get 6 months, the ability to have time at home allows them to create that bond with their child. And in a world where divorce is now common, a lot of men have sole custody of children OR get rare access, so when they do, time is precious. Either way, it is a good thing that there is such a thing as equal opportunity and as long as someone is doing the work, why does it matter what gender they are?


“We love our modern independence in life and in love, but deep down, we want guys to treat us like ladies.�



“I don’t see no fight for men’s rights”.

First of all, can you start off with telling me a little bit about yourself, your job/career, any kids? My name’s Steven Saunders, I’m 31 and I have 2 young children. Most of my time involves looking after them and doing the housekeeping. In a time when it was once a man’s role to be the provider and to care for his family, how do you think that’s changed over the years? With women becoming stronger in the workplace, men now have the opportunity to take on roles what traditionally, they wouldn’t of had to do. Roles such as taking their children to school, cooking and cleaning. Women can now go out pursue their aspirations. It is a lot more equal in that sesnse, we now live in a well balanced community.

Do you think that it’s for the better? For women yes. But for men, no. Women have gained great grounds trying to achieve equality, but now I think their rights have surpased that of a mans. It’s not equal for men when it comes to children. For example, custody of the children if the relationship with the mother was to break-down. Also, men only get 2 weeks paternity leave, which is not long enough to form a bond with their new-born. I don’t see no fight for men’s rights.

but these “women” are trying to take over. It’s not fair on us men. We have to sit back and let them put us down, we don’t have any cards to play when it comes to feminist issues. We are seen as sexist if we try to voice our opinions on the matter. What are your views on Donald Trump? He’s an old-fashioned moraled business-man who’s not afraid of expressing his views.

There’s a lot going on at the minute with [Trump] being openly sexist. Do you think he has a leg to stand on or do you think he’s downWhat do you think of when you right, offensive? hear the word feminism? No, he lives in a place where they Lesbian, men-hating women have freedom of speech. He stands who have become the person they up for the values he believes in. If it were fighting against. Harsh I know, was a woman doing the same, would that be seen as sexist?


#girlpower



On the 7th of September 1968, one of the most legendary protests took place at the Miss America beauty pageant in Atlantic City. It involved feminists throwing symbolic objects subject to female oppression such as make-up, bra’s, girdles and high-heels; into a rubbish bin. Myth had it the bin was set alight, but this was due to wide-spread media on the matter with headlines including, “Bra burners blitz boardwalk”. That aside the truth in the matter was the message behind the reason, to protest women’s constraints that appease men’s attention.

“The bin was set alight” Another incident that took place prior to the bra burning protest was the rejection of the corset through the war and when Dior tried to bring it back into fashion in the late 1940’s. With women taking on more physical roles during the war, corsets were traded in for men’s suits; women would alter their husbands suits for work, due to their absence at home serving their country and the lack of cloth available caused by rations. This in itself was revolutionary for women and was a pivotal point for women’s rights, so when Dior tried to bring it back into fashion post-war, it

was quite positively rejected by most women not among the upper class. Today corsets are worn loosely as a fashion statement popular among the working class. In the 1980’s Vivienne Westwood focused on corsets in her collection and most recently Maria Grazia Chiurri showcased corsets in her debut collection for Dior; a woman who by the way, was the first female designer to head the notorious fashion house since being founded 70 years ago. Corsets are now also largely popular within the cross-dressing community. But one thing that stands out to me when I think of feminism and fashion is a woman’s need to dress masculine to look powerful. By this I refer to 80’s power dressing when shoulder pads were the rage. Personally, I think by dressing to enhance the female form liberates women and therefore is much more feminist than conforming to the male form. Most recently feminism has played a vital role in fashion with designers promoting the movement with slogans and hashtags on their garments. Karl Lagerfeld staged a feminist protest for his spring summer 2015 collection for French fashion-house Chanel. Other designers to get amongst the hype include Miuccida Prada and her spring/summer 2014 collection and Rick Owens who showcased models wearing “human


Feminism Within Fashion backpacks” on the runway for his spring 2016 collection. collection and Rick Owens who showcased models wearing “human backpacks” on the runway for his spring 2016 collection. But one thing that stands out to me when I think of feminism and fashion is a woman’s need to dress masculine to look powerful. By this I refer to 80’s power dressing when shoulder pads were the rage. Personally, I think by dressing to enhance the female form liberates women and therefore is much more feministic than conforming to the male form. Most recently feminism has played a vital role in fashion with designers promoting the movement with slogans and hashtags on their garments. Karl Lagerfeld staged a feminist protest for his spring summer 2015 collection for French fashion-house Chanel. Other designers to get amongst the hype include Miuccida Prada and her spring/summer 2014 collection and Rick Owens who showcased models wearing “human backpacks” on the runway for his spring 2016 collection. But are these designers really feminists? Or are they just jumping on the band wagon because it’s the cool thing to do at the minute? Many people criticised Karl Lagerfeld for his feminist protest stating that a fashion show is not an appropriate place for a feminist march, doing so actually trivialises the cause. But Lagerfeld bit back saying:

“My mother was very much a feminist and I thought it was something right for the moment. I couldn’t care less if people are for or against. It ’s my idea. I like the idea of feminism being something light-hearted, not a truck driver for the feminist movement.” I admire Karl Lagerfeld for his comment, he grew up around feminism so it’s something he is passionate about. Keeping the topic light-hearted within fashion is something I agree on too, he isn’t pushing it onto his consumers too harshly, instead he is putting the issue out there into the public and creating conversation, getting people to talk about the issue. And after all, that’s what it’s all about, right?



“The word feminism gets thrown around like it ’s the cool thing to be one.”

First of all, can you start off with telling me a little bit about yourself, your job/career, any kids? I’m 24 years old years old. I am a sales assistant and have been for 6 years. My career in life is to be a baker so currently in college learning cake decoration and bakery. No children yet but hope to have lots in the future. Thankfully I have set shifts in work to fit around my college classes. When I have spare time I try to bake anything I can in that time. I have to try plan my time carefully as I have so much going on. This is when my diary comes in use. In a time when it was once a man’s role to be the provider and to care for his family, how do you think that’s changed over the years? I think the male and female ‘role’ has changed over the years because of the war. I think women have

proven they are capable of doing the same jobs as men which has allowed men to feel OK with not having to be the sole provider and it’s given them a chance to not be judged for staying at home. Do you think that it’s for the better? I do think it’s for the better because at the end of the day everybody’s happy and we get to live our lives how we want and not how we used to think it should be.

Trump? I don’t know much about politics or about Trump but what I do know is he voices his opinions about women in a disgusting old fashioned way. He’s very racist and not a clever man.

There’s a lot going on at the minute with [Trump] being openly sexist. Do you think he has a leg to stand on or is he down-right, offensive? In this day and age I think the way Trump acts towards women is wrong,. Women now-a-days are very strong, hard-working human What do you think of when you beings instead of being the stay at hear the word feminism? home women they used to be in the When I hear the word feminism I olden days. He doesn’t have a leg to think in today’s world I feel like it stand on, there are women out there gets thrown around, like its the cool that have achieved far greater things thing to be one. then he ever has or will. If anything I think he still talks this way about women because he’s so threatened What are your views on Donald by them.





The modern woman It is all too commonly known the way sexism hurts women, but we don’t really hear much about how sexism also hurts men. Understandably, when we think of sexism, we think of the economic inequality on women, the rigid gender roles common in the past and the political debate of women’s rights to vote and work. But women have come a long way since then and have now gained the equality in the work place, I can list so many successful, powerful businesswomen including Anna Wintour, Operah Winfrey and Theresa May to name a few. But with the rise of this success my attention turns to the modern man. I used social media to reach out to people and find out their views on the topics I have raised. I found that people think we now live in a world where it’s ok for roles to reverse, as long as one person in the relationship is the provider it doesn’t matter if that person is male or female. Balance is key and people understand being at home isn’t always the easier job role. It is unfair for people to judge someone on their role in society so long as they are doing their bit to provide and support their family that is all what matters. I believe extreme feminists are taking their debate too far, no longer are women needing to fight for equal rights, instead they are now striving for superiority.

But in order to truly succeed in living in a world where life is equal, it needs to be recognised that men also need to be respected. “More than half of men (52%) think there are no more advantages in being one gender or the other”. (CBS News, 2016) I care about this stuff a lot, I care because I have men in my life who matter to me and I see it so often where they are the victim in social situations. I feel women throw around the ‘sexist’ card too loosely these days, men are apprehensive about sharing their views in fear of a woman taking it the wrong way and retaliating in a sense where he is portrayed as chauvinistic and in the wrong, so instead men act submissively in order to be accepted and respected in modern society. But let me ask you this, if it was the other way around, would the woman be called sexist? Other situations what get to me are job roles what are still seen as female roles, roles what men fear taking because they worry that they will look inferior, roles such as midwifery, hair stylists and nursery teachers. It is only by answering these questions that we can truly fight the problem of gender inequality, we have to give justice to both males and females.


“We should all be treated with an equal amount of respect”.

First of all, can you start off Do you think that it’s for the with telling me a little bit about better? yourself, your job/career, any kids? Yes I do. It gives everyone more My name is Laura Mar, I’m 23 equal opportunities I think. years old and I’m a spanish living in Liverpool, UK. No kids. What do you think of when you hear the word feminism? In a time when it was once a I think of women wanting man’s role to be the provider and equal rights (to be treated same, to care for his family, how do recieve the same pay as a male etc). you think that’s changed over the years? However sometimes it can have Women have a lot more negative connotations as some opportunities now rather than feminists take it too far and want years ago, so roles have changed women to overpower men when slightly so men can stay at home we should all be treated with an and look after the kids whilst equal amount of respect. women go out to work. It can work both ways.

What are your views on Donald Trump? He’s a bit of a pleb who doesn’t know how to treat people with respect. Also he doesn’t live in the 21st century, he’s still living like it’s back in the 1950’s. There’s a lot going on at the minute with [Trump] being openly sexist. Do you think he has a leg to stand on or is he downright, offensive? I don’t think he thinks things through before he speaks. Either that or he wants to intentionally offend people.



Society Today

It is clear that people’s opinions are so varied when it comes to feminism. It has become such a widespread topic that ultimately I don’t think there is a right or a wrong. What IS wrong however, is the manner in which designers are exploiting feministic and sexist issues for their own financial gain. By jumping on the band-wagon using hashtag references on their clothes, they are straying away from the true meaning of feminism and the fight for their rights. The word is getting over used and losing its value. People are not wanting to engage in the topic because it is currently seen as the ‘hip’ thing to do.


“Fashion and feminism do not mix, - and they never will”. (Gill, 2016)

If we truly want to strive for equality in this world, the fashion industry needs to be aware of such issues, be sensitive to people’s feelings and be conscious not to misinterpret global issues. If designers truly see themselves as feminists, then they need to educate their thoughts through structured marketing campaigns and only then would it deem reasonable to profit from it. Another way to show they are serious about the issues would be to donate the profits raised, to a charity who helps improve women’s rights.



“Even though things are changing slowly, the stereotype isn’t.”

First of all, can you start off with telling me a little bit about yourself? Jeremy Griffiths, 23yo, French born, I grew up in Paris. I lived for two years in London, went back to Paris and came back 6months ago. I’m currently unemployed, part time model and just trying to figure shit out. No kids.


In a time when it was once a man’s role to be the provider and to care for his family, how do you think that’s changed over the years? Men used to be the providers, but times are changing and I think it’s for the best. There is still a stereotype of ‘The Man’, society still see him as someone who should provide for his family, but more and more, women are becoming the providers themselves. But even though things are changing slowly, the stereotype isn’t. For many people (male and female), men still have to be ‘The Man’ in charge. But I think it’s going to change with time. Do you think that it’s for the better? It is for the better, because there’s a lot a pressure on men nowadays (not saying that women aren’t under pressure). If you’re not following the stereotype, you’re not considered a real man, and in the 21st century, where everything is going so fast and things are really starting to change,

men need a way to construct an identity that’s different from the previous generation and definition of what being a man is. And on top of that, it helps women take control of who they are and break free from the “control” of The Man.

are too hormonal, or need to take a chill pill? In that way, I think feminists are being misunderstood. And I think about diversity because feminism isn’t just what the social media shows, but much more. And even though extreme parties like Femen might be a bit What do you think of when you much, feminism is more complex,. There’s different ways to approach hear the word feminism? When I hear the word ‘feminism’ it, whether it’s by marching in I hear three things : fighter, the streets, doing art, sharing past experiences or helping other women misunderstood and diversity. First of all, I think the word (and there’s even more). feminism was “created” in opposition as machismo, and What are your views on Donald to me this is wrong because the Trump? word doesn’t show women’s true He might just be the intentions. I really believe that personification of sexism and women are looking for equality and machismo. The 21st century is a not to take the man’s place. time of progress, and he’s bringing I hear fighter in the way that everything back to a place we don’t women have been fighting for their want to see anymore. rights for a long time, and are still The way he openly speaks about fighting today to not only keep these women is an insult to the progress rights, but help other woman to get women have made up until now. these rights as well. There’s always going to be someone I also hear misunderstood, who wants to go back to the gold because when men hear feminism, old days, and who’s openly sexist, they instantly think but those people aren’t President of of Feminazis, Femen, the USA. and other groups misinterpreted by There’s a lot going on at the minute social media. They with [Trump] being openly sexist. only see what was Do you think he has a leg to stand shown to them on or is he down-right, offensive? without being Trump is just offensive. Even if interested in it. Most he has good reasons to act this way, men see feminists you can’t be a persona this influential as women who’s and act like this. marching down To have such a strong person naked and fighting being like this is actually scary, it anyone who gets in means that people think the same their way. Although way as him and maybe equality isn’t it has happened, going to happen just yet. feminism isn’t just that. How many times have I heard that feminists are only Jeremy Griffiths women looking to @the_don_jeremiah get fucked right, or



“A good balance is good for any relationship”. teens my mum began full time work so I watched that transition happen in front of me. I’ve never really seen the person who makes the most money as the “provider” especially as I now have kids I can honestly say minding 2 kids all day can be more tiring than going to work sometimes. It’s fair to say money puts food on the table but a provider also bathes the kids, cooks the How do you find the time to fit it meals, cleans their clothes and that all in? can come from any parent regardless I don’t even know how I fit of sex. A good balance is good for everything in to one day. I know any relationship. I’m pretty comfortable on 6 hours sleep. I think having the kids in a Do you think that it’s for the good routine helps keep everything better? flowing nicely in my house. I think it’s definitely for the better. I don’t think it’s fare to say a In a time when it was once a man’s woman should clean, wash, cook etc role to be the provider and to care and a man should just bring money for his family, how do you think in. No one should be put in a box. that’s changed over the years? What do you think of when you I grew up in a house where only hear the word feminism? my dad worked but as I got to my First of all, can you start off with telling me a little bit about yourself, your job/career, any kids? Hi. I’m David Melia, from Liverpool and I currently work as an IT technician in a school. I studied software engineering in John Moores University. I’m currently a married, home owner with 2 kids; one boy, one girl.

First thing that comes to mind is female empowerment and equal rights. What are your views on Donald Trump? He seems to talk before he thinks. It’s hard to say people are truly evil by intent but people can be very naive and well just plain stupid and I think he easily influenced by the people around him. He does not seem balanced at all. There’s a lot going on at the minute with [Trump] being openly sexist. Do you think he has a leg to stand on or is he down-right, offensive? When it comes to his sexist remarks he really doesn’t have a leg to stand on. He’s been caught in tape saying vulgar things and he can’t deny it. He comes from a place of power from birth and I think it’s not just women he looks down on its a multitude of races and ethnicities as well.


Janine

Victoria

1. I work for Santander Bank in 1. 28, live In Manchester, no kids, their complaints team. No kids - live work as clinical research associate at home. Female - 26. and I go pole dancing . 2. I think that equality in pay has 2. Women’s role has changed (I am changed “bread winner” situations breadwinner in my house). Woman at home for families. have become more equal and accepted in work (not in managerial/ 3. 100%. CEO roles). 4. Depends on context. Either 3. Yes, better opportunities for women seeking equality or people women + men can stay at home if using feminism to actually place they want to. themselves above men. 4. Strong empowered women 5. Sexist, racist, rich pig. (sometimes a bit much for me). 6. Plain old offensive vile man.

6. Sexist, racist, uneducated moron. 7. Taking women’s right to Abortion is wrong - plain old offensive!!

Michael

Natasha

Thomas

1. Female -28, supermarket assistant, 1. No kids, work at DHL, male, 31 no kids. 1. I work on the Docks and have no kids 2. Women have became more 2. Roles have been levelled out if not independent. Roles have been reversed. Woman want to be more 2. Women have taken a more shared out more. independent. predominant role over the years, in some cases the men stay at home 3. Yes. 3. Yes. Although it is nice to be now. treated from time to time. I think 4. Why choose feminism over woman want to “own” their own 3. Change can be for the better. equality? lives and choices and have their own money etc 4. Angry women moaning about 5. Interesting change. The USA things that have happened in the election process needs to change. 4. Dated. But with it women have past. Sexist things go both ways come a long way. Today we need to nowadays. 6. What has he done to the women concentrate on equality more than of America? What right have been rights of JUST women. 5. Twat. taken away? What should we do with peoplw who can’t have an 5. Old racist, close minded greedy 6. Donald Trump is a TWAT!!! opinion? man. 6. Plain old offensive. Although there must be a vast majority like him other wise he wouldn’t be where he was today which is scary.


By Laura Arnold


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