STUSSY MINI PROCESSBOOK LAURA FRITZ
WORK, WORK, WORK This processbook gives insight into my way of working of my graduation project for International Fashion & Branding. Divided intro three main phases - research, concepting & execution - it highlights my most important insights, decisions and experimentation.
THE CONTENT RESEARCH Personal Direction & Fascination
6
Research Question
14
Food Culture Key Insights
8
Stussy Brand Analysis
16
Streetwear Key Insights
10
Target Group Key Insights
22
Choosing a Client
12
Competitor Analysis
26
Conceptual Starting Points
32
Concept Check 2
40
Problem Definition & Strategy
35
Re-Focus & Final Concept
44
Concept Development
36
CONCEPTING
EXECUTION Communication Strategy
50
Capsule Collection
64
Event Visualisation
54
Red / Green Check
70
Milkshake Development
58
Final Presentation
72
Source List
80
SYMBOLS
CONCLUSIONS
FEEDBACK & WHERE AM I NOW?
WHAT‘S THIS ALL AB OUT?
PHASE 1 RESEARCH
RESEARCH PHASE
PERSONAL DIRECTION & FASCINATION
INTERESTS Personally, I am a big foodie and fascinated by our food culture. Since food & fashion have become more and more intertwined, I decided to use this as the starting point for my research. Further, I very much enjoyed reviving a dead brand during the Brands & Identity minor, which I also took into consideration in the preliminary research phase.
food references in my photography from the Visual Culture Minor
SKILLS My main skills definitely lie on the strategic side, thus I knew I wanted to put my focus on brand & communication strategy.
the emancipation of masculinity inspiration and concept Ossie Clark created a careless and confident rock ‘n’ roll image which was not only exclusive but exciting as well. The Ossie Clark brand in its glorious days had valuable interests, which were perceived as progressive at that time, but still are inspiring for today’s world. For the revival of the Ossie Clark brand the inspiration lies in the ‘Progressive sexual liberation’ which we consider as the most valuable core. We believe sexual liberation is relevant for all times. During the peak of Ossie Clark’s career (1965-1974) this progressive form of sexual liberation was translated into sensual designs that alluded to free women from traditional social restrictions.Despite the fact emancipation of women is not completely fulfilled yet, another emancipation movement grabbed our attention. It is the emancipation of masculinity. While women already broke free from traditional social norms in the past, strong gender stereotyping makes it difficult for men to explore their sensitive side. This insight linked to the brand kernel with the spirit of Ossie Clark leads to the essence of our brand revival.
We are aiming to bring Ossie Clark back as a sensual, confident menswear brand with a romantic rock-‘n-roll attitude.
Vision
our values
Men should feel free to explore their sexual identity, without being restricted by gender stereotyping
progressive attitude
Mission We empower men by defining a fluid & feminine concept of masculinity
rock N‘ roll opulence sensual masculinity
value proposition Ossie Clark is an underground luxury brand with a rock n’ roll attitude, challenging the definition of masculinity, for the rebellious and self-aware Generation Z & early Millennials who want to be free to explore their sexual identity, without being restricted by gender stereotyping. Our extravagant ready-to-wear investment pieces define a fluid and feminine concept of masculinity. We do this by combining feminine and masculine design elements resulting in a mix of embroidery, leather, floral prints and flowing silhouettes. Additionally, we blend traditional menswear pieces with distinct feminine styles such as skirts and dresses. Unlike our competitors such as JW Anderson, Acne Studios or Saint Laurent that also play with a more fluid concept of masculinity, our collection offers a opulent, flowing design signature in combination with organic, vintage-inspired floral prints, opposed to the very boxy and minimal styles of our competitors.
22
excerpts from our Ossie Clark Re-launch strategy from Brands & Identity
23
Underdog luxury
Overall we are pursuing an „underdog luxury“ strategy to bring back Ossie Clark, which means we are aiming for an exclusive, underground vibe, recreating the effortlessly cool, it-crowd image that made the brand great in the 60’s. This will inform all our strategic decisions, meaning we are staying away from flashy grand fashion gestures and more introduce Ossie Clark as part of a simmering sub-culture.
Troye Sivan @troyesivan reach: 3.6 million followers on instagram singer at Youth Official magazines: Rolling Stone, OUT magazine brands campaigns:
direct-to-consumer model
Saint Laurent / Calvin Klein
Ossie Clark will be mostly built on an online, direct-toconsumer model because of the higher margins, control over the brand image and the target groups online affinity. However we are adding tflexible physical touchpoint to keep exclusivity, build the brand feel and keep an exciting
Kiernan SHipka
atmosphere.
@benlross
Ben Ross
artist and social media influencer reach: 24.8 k followers on instagram brands campaigns: young arts (support of young art scene)
brand influencers
possible collaborations
Our strategy is highly-dependent on influencer marketing, whereas we focus on
@kiernanshipka
young, social-media strong men and women with a vision to change the world and
reach:
an out-spoken, individual style. Examples here are Kiernan Shipka, Troye Sevian
Besides the „traditional“ practice of equipping influencers with the newest collection pieces in exchange for social media posts or them wearing it to important events, it is essential to
247k followers on instagram
and Ezra Miller. They encourage an open-minded and diverse representation
offer exclusive brand experiences that can be shared online, along the lines of „influencer dinners“. We are planning
magazines:
of identities and sexual orientation, are actively trying to break free from social norms and value creative, unique self-expression over „fitting in“ - thus perfectly
to go more in the direction of concerts or art exhibitions
Dazed and Confused / I-D
resonating with the Ossie Clark brand values. Furthermore almost all of them
with a highly curated influencer guests lists. These events
have been in major luxury campaigns or on the covers of fashionable, independent
brands campaigns:
should provide visually engaging elements such as interactive
magazines, which manifests their influence - however, these publications and
Miu Miu / Dior
installations that immediately provide an opportunity for guests to snap an Instagram photo, thus gaining exposure.
brands are selective and exclusive, not scraping at our underground luxury strategy.
Furthermore, these events also provide a great opportunity
Magazines they have been featured in are Dazed&Confused, Another Mag or
for influencers to take over Ossie Clark social media
Rolling Stone, while luxury brands include Prada and Saint Laurent. Other than
channels. Especially Snapchat, with it’s immediate, personal
resonating with our brand values, the group also adds a broader scope of societal
and behind-the-scenes nature, presents itself as a great tool.
issues that we want to link to indirectly - such as Tavi Gevinson who is an outspoken feminist, Amandla Sternberg who is highly involved with the „black lives matter
Having it taken over by a celebrity influencer does not only
movement“ or Troye Sivan who supports the young art scene as well as creative
Ezra MIller
build the Ossie Clark brand image by streaming the event,
freedom for all. This will give credibility to Ossie Clark as a forward-thinking,
launch campaign influencer
it also gives users a reason to add us to their Snapchat, thus
emancipated brand. Lastly, the aforementioned influencers are all linked together,
building our follower base. Furthermore most of our key
actor and singer
supporting and promoting each others work, forming a group of artists that adds a
influencers are involved in creative practices themselves
openly identifies as queer and admits to recreational marihuana use
diverse, creative and exclusive aura.
(music, writing, film), creating collaborative content based on their work makes sense. This will benefit the influencer
magazines: AnotherMag / Dazed and Confused brand campaigns: Prada
34
and us as a brand alike, resulting in a very authentic way of
@tryesivan announcing a
promotion.
Ossie Clark snapchat takeover for a brand event
35
RESEARCH PHASE
KEY INSIGHTS: FOOD CULTURE FASHIONABLE FOOD CONTENT
FOOD & HIP HOP CULTURE
As seen with independent, culinary magazines such as „The Gourmand“ or „FFF Zine“, the success of documentaries such as Netflix’s „Chef’s Table“ and the release of apartemento’s cookbook; food content is becoming increasingly curated, fashionable and relevant.
Fusion of Food & Hip Hop Culture. Ghetto Gastro, a culinary collective from New York are bringing Bronx-food together with haute-cuisine, staging food experiences for Art Basel Miami and Raf Simons. Snoop Dog has a cooking show together with Martha Stuart. Vice’s Munchies Chefs like Eddie Huang and Action Bronson cooking shows are getting increasingly popular. Also Hiroshi Fujiwara, often referred to as the „japanese godfather of streetwear“, states that food is going to be the new form of expression for youth & counter-culture.
FOOD AS A CULTURAL CURRENCY Food has become a cultural currency and a new tool for self-expression. (Ido Garini, founder of food design „Studio Appetit“ : „Our collective obsession with food has elevated eating and drinking rituals into one of our most important forms of self-expression.“ / „Food is today’s hottest social currency; through it we tell others about ourselves“ Waitrose MD Rob Collins on WGSN Insider)
“We will eat ideas, cook concepts” Ido Garini, founder of food designers Studio Appetit
OPPORTUNITY TO TAKE A LOOK INTO HOW STREETWEAR BRANDS CAN BENEFIT FROM CURRENT FOOD CULTURE!
“It‘s a combination of high ingredients and low inerpretations” Lester Walker, Ghetto Gastro
KEY INSPIRATION: GHETTO GASTRO New York-based culinary collective Ghetto Gastro’s approach inspired me greatly, as they perfectly fuse streetwear/hip hop culture, food and fashion. All elements I also wanted to merge together!
FOOD & STREETWEAR CULTURE
What do you feel is going to be the new tool of expression for youth culture?
„I think it’s food. Food culture is growing and growing. Food is one of the only real analog things left, which you have to go and experience.“ Hiroshi Fujiwara, the „godfather of japanese streetwear“
RESEARCH PHASE
KEY INSIGHTS: STREETWEAR MIXING OF HIGH & LOW
NEWSTALGIA
“The taste of now is more of mixing high-low; it’s more iconic and cool to wear a Louis Vuitton bag with a Supreme t-shirt,” observes Abloh. “Celiné and [Nike] Air Force 1’s look cool, but there’s a design mentality around that, which I’m trying to be a part of.” Virgil Abloh, designer Off-White
„a new way of nostalgia“ which taps into a kind of cultural sustainability. For a generation that has grown up aware of ressource scarcity, reusing the past is an idea that just makes sense. Sampling from all past decades (60‘s, 70‘s, 80‘, 90‘s) and remixing them for today is what characterises streetwear at the moment.
AN ALL-ENCOMPASSING LIFESTYLE
ORIGINAL STORYTELLING
Streetwear is about culture. It’s not about clothing. It’s about stories like these—stories like ours. “It's a lifestyle," Edison maintains. “It's not a clothing piece. It's how we feel. It's how we live. It's what we listen to. It's what we eat. It's how we spend our money.” In other words, in the concert tour of life, streetwear is the merch. Edison Chen, founder of Korean streetwear brand CLOT
“In the saturated space of digital media, brands must creatively capture and engage consumers with original content. Storytelling grows more important” Sarah Owen, WGSN Senior Editor, Digital Media & Marketing.
“People end up picking the brands — really lifestyles — that they’re down with, and ride with them.” Virgil Abloh, designer Off-White
STREETWEAR BRANDS ARE WELL-SUITED TO „TAKE OVER“ FOOD CULTURE AS THEY RESEMBLE A HOLISTIC LIFESTYLE AND ARE ALREADY SAMPLING FROM ALL DIFFERENT CULTURES ANYWAY
CURRENT TASTE OF STREETWEAR IS TO MIX OLD & NEW, HIGH & LOW AND ALL DIFFERENT CULTURAL REFERENCES
But it isn’t just about unearthing the old, insists Oliver. „(...)It’s meant to be fresh, you know?“ He compares it to playing a Dolly Parton song in the middle of one of his DJ sets as opposed to a Dolly Parton song playing at a country music night. By artfully reintroducing the old, it feels subversively new. Shayne Oliver (Hood by Air) on business of fashion
RESEARCH PHASE
CHOOSING A BRAND / CLIENT After identifying an opportunity to use food culture in a streetwear context, I looked into different streetwear brands that could benefit from this!
NO because opportunity too small
HAN KJOBENHAVN danish streetwear brand, started out with eyewear danish minimalism meets suburbian youth culture already branched out into furniture & architecture sets (=opportunity for expansion?) cite nordic food as part of their inspiration
CARHARRT
NO because food culture too far from brand
american workwear brand established in 1855 skate culture, electronic music, all american classics not the most relevant within current streetwear culture but doing well no food connections at all: they focus on electronic music as cultural identity
OPENING CEREMONY started as a retailer and are now a publisher with own label more experimental than usual streetwear broad pool of cultural references (also food) but there is no real opportunity NO because the opportunity is too small
SUPREME the incarnation of streetwear, no other label is as successful as them New York underground skate culture expanding constantly with far off collaborations (Louis Vuitton) and in all product categories (furniture, tools, utensils, a brick)
NO because they do not have a problem at all
they can sell anything as long as it has the box logo, so there is no challenge / opportunity here
STUSSY founded by Shawn Stussy in the 80‘s in L.A. rooted in surf culture but expanded to skate & hip hop & punk and other sub cultures seen as the „original streetwear brand“ but not part of the current streetwear culture! connection to food culture (full food experiences, own coffee blend & hot sauce)
YES because they have a real problem & a connection to food culture
STUSSY SEEMS NOT TO BE PART OF CURRENT STREETWEAR CULTURE ANYMORE . OPPORTUNITY: USE FOOD CULTURE TO GIVE THEM AN UPDATE?
RESEARCH PHASE
CHECK 1 & RESEARCH QUESTION TRENDS & RELEVANCE FOOD CULTURE fashionable food content food as a cultural currency & a tool for self-expression food fusing with street & hip hop culture
T PEOPLE CONNEC O T M IU A MED FOOD AS
GEN Z STREETWEAR KIDS “And then brands like Patta say: “go out and vote” - and people see it and are like “oh shit I need to vote!” That’s an important thing.”
INSIGHTS
extreme brand knowledge
always looking for the new underground discovery political & social activism is important to them trust brands & want them to speak out interested in food culture, but not foodies
BRAND ACTIVISM brands are starting to take a political stand, sending messages of inclusivity & solidarity
„Because streetwear is a multi-cultural thing you know? Everybody who likes it wears it, it doesn’t matter where you are from. So cliché but you know - it’s a very good way to connect cultures.“
especially younger consumers are increasingly looking for brands that speak up
STREETWEAR & STUSSY WHY STREETWEAR? heavily relies on cultural references & „remixing“ of them
RESEARCH QUESTION: How can Stussy connect to the new generation of streetwear fanatics by leveraging the trends of brand activism and food as a cultural currency?
holistic lifestlyle: „It‘s what we wear. It‘s what we listen to. It‘s what we eat.“
THE AIM
streetwear culture transcends social & cultural backgrounds
Connect Stussy with the new generation of streetwear kids by sending a positive message of cultural unity & solidarity through food culture!
STUSSY: the „original streetwear brand“ the „International Stussy Tribe“
PROBLEM: Stussy‘s brand heritage has value to the next generation of consumers but there is a need for new cultural references to connect to them in a meaningful way
POSSIBLE PRODUCT Campaign exploring & highlighting „International Stussy Tribe“ Influencers and their food cultures
RESEARCH QUESTION
How can Stussy connect to the new generation of streetwear fanatics by leveraging the trend of food as a cultural currency? How is activism used in the branding industry? How is food culture used in the branding industry? Which food trends & activist causes are relevant for the streetwear culture? Who are the upcoming streetwear fanatics? How do they relate to current food culture? How do they relate to the topic of activism? Which subjects matter to them in this context? What are their brand preferences, media usage and lifestyle choices? What does the Stussy brand stand for? What is Stussy heritage and how can it be “remixed” with current events? How is Stussy’s identity visualized? Who are Stussy’s competitors and how are they positioned?
FEEDBACK: PASS - Focus on more TG insights and research - don‘t forget the heritage element that is stated in the problem - is the activism element really needed? - from now on I need to research & analyse more from a brand perspective and leave the „answers“ out of the questions
RESEARCH PHASE
STUSSY BRAND ANALYSIS THE STUSSY HISTORY
Brand started with Shawn Stussy as he scribbled „Stussy“ on his custommade surfboards in Laguna Beach
Stussy started the „hiphop-esque“ sampling of cultural references
17mio in revenue, brand caught on in New York where the first chapter store opened
1980
1984
1990
THE ORIGINAL STREETWEAR BRAND Stussy is the brand that „invented“ the streetwear culture we know today and can be described as the original streetwear brand
Shawn Stussy resigns from the brand & Stussy loses relevance to the more and more rough aesthetic of Hip Hop and rap
Wiithout Shawn the brand has managed to stay more or less relevant until now but less sucessful than in their beginnings
1996
2000
BRAND ROOTS: CALIFORNIA SURF & SKATE CULTURE
INTERNATIONAL STUSSY TRIBE Stussy has been cultivating the „international Stussy tribe“, a group of cultural influencers that are brand-fanatical, thus showing a natural affinity to influencer marketing
STUSSY BRAND PRISM
PICTURE OF SENDER
Personality
Black Stussy Scribble
effortless
classic american workwear
rebellious
analog & retro
ironic
laid-back
“no fucks given”
Relationship
Culture
mutual appreciation
counter-culture
“bro’s”
“in-the-know”
loyal to the point of fanatical
skate, surf & hip hop
Reflection
Self-image
selected tribe of influencers all over the world, united through their similar understanding of underground culture
“I’m one of the insiders and truly know about streetwear subculture”
PICTURE OF RECIPENT
BRAND CORE: EFFORLTESS, REBELLIOUS COUNTER-CULTURE
INTERNALIZATION
EXTERNALIZATION
Physique
RESEARCH PHASE / STUSSY VALUES
CORE VALUES
EFFORTLESS
COUNTER-CULTURE
REBELLIOUS
A laid-back attitude. Not taking themselves so serious. They don’t need to try - It’s a way of life. And for the people that understand it, it comes naturally.
Punk, Rap, Hip-Hop, Surf, Skate - whatever was, is or will go on outside of the mainstream Stussy has their take on it.
„Livin’ Large“ and just doing whatever the hell they feel like.
FUNCTIONAL VALUES
LAID-BACK Rooted in laid-back west coast culture, Stussy’s products are always simple & chill. Loose-fitted basics, some rad graphic prints, good to go for whenever to wherever, from board to bar.
CLASSICS Being the original streetwear brand, Stussy coined the style of classic, american workwear. And to this day they stay close to their roots.
EXPRESSIVE VALUES
RETRO COOL Already mentioned in one of their iconic 90’s ads: „In this great future, you can’t forget your past.“ While Stussy is constantly evolving they never fail to look back, remix & sample to create something new that honors the old.
RAW AUTHENTICITY Allergic to posers & perfect fakeness, Stussy express themselves in a straight-forward and honest way that tells it like it is.
TRASHY IRONY Stussy never take themselves too seriously. Over-the-top choices and some trashy elements signify an effortless, self-ironic way of life.
RESEARCH PHASE
STUSSY BUSINESS MODEL TIERED BUSINESS MODEL
SMALL CULTURE BRAND
Stussy‘s tiered business model is supposed to control exactly where certain products go to ensure exclusivity and protect brand equity, however in the past years they have not created any relevant collections for the top triangle
they want to stay a small culture brand & are still a privately owned company
OPPORTUNITY TO TARGET STUSSY‘S TOPTIER BUSINESS AND MAKE IT INTERESTING FOR THE TG
„Sinatra characterises Stüssy’s third act as having a “brand-first, revenue second” philosophy, in order to avoid becoming “this big monstrosity that doesn’t stand for anything.” Business of Fashion, Jian Deleon
VERY EXCLUSIVE & FASHIONABLE RETAILERS
DOVER STREET MARKET
EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS
TRES BIEN COLETTE
MORE COMMERCIAL RETAILERS WITHIN STREETWEAR SCENE
ASPHALTGOLD
FRESH COTTON
COLLABORATIONS WITH OTHER STREETWEAR BRANDS
UNIVERSAL STORE
KICKZ
HBX
ZALORA
SURFSTITCH ASOS
GENERIC RETAILERS
URBAN OUTFITTERS
MAINSTREAM RETAILERS
RESEARCH PHASE
STUSSY & FOOD Stussy has already tapped into food culture by staging food experiences with collaborations, venturing into their own coffee blend and releasing their very own hot sauce
STUSSY HOT SAUCE Stussy hot sauce was developed in collaboration with „Golden Brown“ and is available at the Stussy Livin General Store
THIS SHOWS THAT STUSSY & FOOD ARE NOT TOO FAR APART AND THAT THERE IS ROOM TO EXPLORE IT FURTHER
COLLABORATION WITH PLAN CHECK KITCHEN The restaurant sold a Stussy menu accompanied by an exclusive shirt
STUSSY LIVIN‘ GENERAL STORE COFFEE BLEND Custom coffee blend developed in collaboration with coffee county, available at the Stussy Livin‘ General Store
FOOD REFERENCES IN STUSSY CAMPAINGS repreated visual references to food culture
RESEARCH PHASE
TARGET GROUP: THE STREETWEAR AFICIONADOS
KEY INSIGHTS BRAND KNOWLEDGE
DEDICATION
Brand & culture knowledge is most important to them - they want to understand the history and the cultural references that are made by streetwear brands and their products. If you don’t have this knowledge you are a „poser“.
Opposite to having everything available anywhere, anytime, they actually enjoy the dedication one needs to attain certain limited edition pieces and collections. The rarer, the better.
WAY OF LIFE
NEWSTALGIA
Streetwear is a way of life to them and the product is only part of it. „It’s what we wear. It’s what we listen to. It’s what we eat.“
The past has value to them. Fascinated by oldschool hip hop, vintage pieces or old Tarantino movies they engage in a „newstalgia“ by mixing these influences into their current culture.
SAMPLING OF SUBCULTURES Like streetwear culture itself, they are sampling from all different subcultures and fusing them together in their individual understanding. This includes the mixing of high and low culture or nostalgic and new references.
METHODOLOGY 3 in-depth interviews (Sem, Maurice, Mitchell) 3 smaller interviews (Thijs, Bart, Zishan) most important articles & trend reports WGSN: World Hood BoF: Tapping Gen Z Protein: In the Name of the Label Vice: The 15-year olds spending thousands on streetwear
social media research (ca. analysis of 30 target group instagram profiles) @denimtears @lukasabbat @johnthehorseman @instastanjeejo @freeman020 @adamwithe @larryappiah @giorgho @rizkyl @daanvancitters @mitsholl
@garywix @jelle_aukes @brokeboityron @timvanaarst @fabiantjoeaon @ozoul @snackpackready @stynstyn @shawnbastard @kickvdoorn @tyrelllimon @mauricetruijen @maironawaz @mobjustice
streetwear as a way of life
open-minded Gen Z‘ers
fusion of „high and low“ culture
extreme brand knowledge
on the hunt for „limiteds“
appropriation & remixing of cultural & nostalgic references
RESEARCH PHASE
QUOTES TG INTERVIEWS “I just don’t really know what Stussy is about right now. That happened with Obey as well.” Maurice, 20
„If you can buy it on every street corner, your magic is gone.It’s not special anymore. That’s why I buy the Limiteds. Because they thought about it.“ Mitchell, 21
Because streetwear is a multicultural thing you know? Everybody who likes it wears it, it doesn’t matter where you are from. So cliché, but you know. It’s a very good way to connect cultures.
“And I really like how with Patta it’s not all about the fashion, they throw like parties as well, and the whole thing around it - that I really like.” Maurice, 20
Sem, 19
„I mean the guy that founded it was definitely cool.. maybe if they could bring back that feeling they could be cool again.” Thijs, 19
„I try to know every background. Most of the times I know the background. But Patta recently did a collaboration with FUBU, and I knew FUBU, but I’m only 19, so I can’t know everything. So then I try to look it up to understand it. The collaborations with the old brands are really nice. I like it.“ Sem, 19
STREETWEAR AFICIONADOS LIFESTYLE
BRAND PREFERENCES Patta, Supreme, Palace, Vans, Nike, BAPE, SMIB, The new Originals, A Cold Wall, KITH, ALIFE new york, Off-White
CULTURE
MEDIA & INFLUENCERS
magazines & publications: dazed digital, glamcult, i-D, Vice, the usual streetwear sites to a certain extend (hype beast, highsnobiety, complex)
FOOD They care about good quality ingredients and are aware of the environmental impact of the food industry. They experiment with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles but are not overly committed or ultra-healthy
Fusion of high & low culture. They are interested in contemporary art and photography just as much as ironic memes and cartoons or old, iconic movies.
RESEARCH PHASE
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
SUPREME (1994) Price: 50-200€ / special collaborations up to 2000€ Core: NY skate scene, urban counter-culture, box logo Visual: signature red, controlled lo-fi aesthetic & clean streetwear Other: extremely limited quantities & mysterious branding strategy
CARHARRT WIP (1994) Price: 10€ - 200 € Core: American workwear, Detroit, skate culture, Americana, Electronic music Visual: youthful, warm vintage, analog, laid-back Other: WIP is a sub brand (for a more fashionable TG from Carharrt)
A BATHING APE / BAPE (1993) Price: 40€ - 400€ Core: Tokyo streetwear, humourous, „kidult“, nerdy gangster, over-the-top Visual: comic patterns, neon colours, ape mascot, camouflage Other: known for their overthe-top retail environments (almost playgrounds for adults)
PALACE^ (2010) Price: 10€ - 200€ Core: London skate scene, 90‘s sportswear, british subculture, self-ironic Visual: british suburbs, raw, rebellious, youth grunge, trashy Other: probably one of the only brands that can rival Supreme‘s cult following
PIGALLE PARIS (2008) Price: 200€ - 3000€ Core: paris studio, streetwar craftsmanship, street inspired avant-garde Visual: minimal, refined colour palette, controlled, strong silhouettes Other: not a „typical“ streetwear brand but respected within the scene
OFF WHITE (2010) Price: 200€ - 3000€ Core: Virgil Abloh (Kanye crew member), „Art Dads“, young artists, experimental Visual: trashy avant-garde, rough intellectual, fusion of streetwear & high-fashion Other: very broad product range (furniture, prints...) & immersive events
RESEARCH PHASE
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
KITH (2011) Price: 50€ - 750€ Core: sneaker heads, NY city, american sportswear, „grown-up“ Visual: casual, clean, „preppy“ streetwear, bustling city & outdoors Other: KITH treats is their in-store cereal bar that sells branded cereal boxes
OBEY (2001) Price: mostly under 100€ some jackets to 400€ Core: Shepard Fairey counter culture, punk rock, skate culture, political activism Visual: raw vintage, punk streetstyle, rebellious, symbolism, zine aesthetic Other: seems to have fallen „off-the-radar“ much like Stussy
PATTA (2004) Price: 30€ - 250€ Core: Sneakerculture, hip hop, dutch sub culture, DIY mentality Visual: laid-back rebellious, colourful graphics, realness, straight-forward Other: the brand that put Amsterdam on the streetwear radar
most authentic heritage
STUSSY SUPREME PATTA BAPE
CARHARRT WIP PALACE
low price
OBEY
KITH
high price
OFF-WHITE
least authentic heritage
STUSSY‘S ADVANTAGE: MOST AUTHENTIC HERITAGE!
BRANDS „FOUNDING CITY“ IS BIG PART OF THEIR IDENTITY - WHERE IS L.A. / STUSSY LINK?
PHASE 2 CONCEPTING
CONCEPTING PHASE
CONCEPTUAL STARTING POINTS
BRAND
TARGET GROUP
MARKET
STUSSY is the original streetwear brand
STUSSY is not connecting not the Streetwear Aficionados because they are missing current cultural references
The Streetwear Aficionados value Stussy‘s authentic heritage
They are eager to understand brand story & references as not having the knowledge makes you a poser
Authentic heritage is an important part of most streetwear brands
Newstalgia - trend of reinventing the past for today
TRENDS
STARTING POINTS
Streetwear brands are always about taking things from the past and remixing them with current culture (DJing the culture)
The Stussy heritage is a competitive advantage that should be capitalised on
„Remix“ the Stussy heritage for today
STUSSY products are perceived as too widely available (UO / ASOS)
The Streetwear Aficionados are into a fusion of high & low culture
Once everyone has the product the magic is gone
Most sucessful streetwear brands at the moment are more exclusive through limited quantities
Food as the new tool of expression for counterculture / Hi-lo fusion of streetwear and haute cuisine (Ghetto Gastro)
Food culture as the new & exciting element in the mix
Needs to contain a „limited“ aspect that is not accessible to everyone
CONCEPTING PHASE
PROBLEM DEFINITION & STRATEGY EXCLUSIVE & FASHIONABLE RETAILERS LIMITEDS & COLLABS
DSM PROBLEM! COLETTE
STREETWEAR AFICIONADOS
TRES BIEN FRESH COTTON KNOWN STREETWEAR SCENE RETAILERS
STREETWEAR FAN
UNIVERSAL STORE ASPHALTGOLD ASOS
HBX URBAN OUTFITTERS
MAINSTREAM RETAILERS & CONSUMERS NOT REALLY PART OF DRIVING THE CULTURE
MAINSTREAM CONSUMER
ZALORA
STREETWEAR TRIBES
SURFSTITCH
STUSSY TIERED BUSINNES MODEL
PROBLEM ON TWO LEVELS 1 IMAGE Stussy as a brand is not perceived as part of the current streetwear culture, as they are missing new cultural references
2 PRODUCT linked
Stussy products are perceived as too widely available, as there are no appealing, relevant limited collections available
STRATEGY: reposition Stussy as a relevant streetwear brand in the TG‘s mind with a campaign, accompanied by a limited capsule collection that they can buy into as a „symbol“ of the revived image.
THE BUILDING BLOCKS REINVENT STUSSY‘S ICONIC HERITAGE FOR TODAY
USE FOOD CULTURE TO REMIX THE PAST FOR TODAY
CAPITALIZE ON „NEWSTALGIA“ & THE RISE OF RETRO BRANDS
CREATE A CAMPAIGN TO PUT STUSSY BACK ON THE RADAR OF THE TG
CREATE A LIMITED COLLECTION TO ADRESS THE PROBLEM OF EXCLUSIVITY
CONCEPTING PHASE
CONCEPT IDEA 1 INSIGHTS TARGET GROUP
MARKET
TRENDS
BRAND
The Target Group appreciates Stussy‘s iconic heritage to a certain extend BUT they are missing new cultural references
Streetwear culture sustains itself by artfully remixing old and new cultural elements. („Newstalgia“)
Food is becoming the new tool of self-expression for youth culture
Streetwear is currently becoming in a way „mainstream“ so there is an opportunity for Stussy to position themselves as the authentic, original alternative to uber-hyped brands like Supreme, Palace or Patta
CAPITALIZE ON STUSSY‘S AUTHENTIC HERITAGE BY „REMIXING“ IT WITH CURRENT CULTURE
Food is a way to experience a broader sense of culture and the ultimate experience enhancer
FOOD CULTURE AS THE NEW ELEMENT IN THE MIX
POSITION STUSSY AS THE CHOICE FOR PEOPLE THAT TRULY UNDERSTAND STREETWEAR
AIM:
Reintroduce Stussy‘s iconic heritage through fusing it with the new cultural currency of food to position them as the original choice for true streetwear connoisseurs
4 ICONIC STUSSY INFLUENCES
FEEDBACK: - hypocritical if Stussy pretends to be for „true connoisseurs“, when they are perceived as too mainstream
4 ICONIC STUSSY STYLES
- collection linked to the 4 influences seems forced and tries to combine too many elements in one TRANSLATED INTO 4 DISHES THAT CAN BE EXPERIENCED BY STREETWEAR CONNOISSEURS
Created by Hopkins
Created by Hopkins
Created by Hopkins
Created by Hopkins
- not clear what exactly I am going to do
CREATIVE CONCEPT
FOR TRUE CONNOISSEURS serving you the Stussy heritage
1. CAMPAI GN
IDEA and showcase the br way w ne a in e heritag nic ico g in lat ns tra by & ts en om Stussy m al tu ac to in ts uc prod dishes!
TONE OF VOICE
ballsy
MESSAG E: Stu
ssy is th streetwe e original ar brand , the „creme de la cre me“ of its cult ure. people th It‘s for understa at truly nd and li ve streetwe ar - the tr ue connoiss eurs.
ironic
TOOLS: 1 ) branded events where dishes are actually served 2) online & social media image campaign
classy lo-fi
CTION E L L O C 2.
IDEA
limited collect capsule reinter ion that is pre Stussy ting 4 iconic st as the yles. Acts collect „symb able ol of conno being a isseur“
CONCEPTING PHASE
FURTHER CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
I tried to combine too many elements before - it is better to focus on one part of the Stussy heritage to bring back!
FOCUS ON STUSSY‘s L.A. HERITAGE AS THIS IS WHERE THE BRAND STARTED!
STUSSY CALIFORNIA HERITAGE BRAINSTORM
reggae
surfer vans laid-back surf style
classic american sportswear
STUSSY WEST COAST HERITAGE bleach & pastels
80‘s surf culture
painter caps Laguna Beach Shop
Shawn Stussy 80‘s skate culture
Southern California Car Culture
new wave graphics
Shawn sold tees out of his trunk
punk & early hip hop
in & out burger
taquerias
west coast cool
diner fare
CALIFORNIA FOOD CULTURE
bodegas taco trucks California Coolers
mexican/ hispanic streetfood
drive-thru‘s capri sun
INSPIRATION / MOOD Based on the starting points from the brain storm I collected visuals to create a beginning for the look & feel of the concept
80‘s new wave graphics
late-night coffee shops
retro-calif looks
Stussy‘s 80‘s surf roots
diner fare & hispanic streetfood
„it‘s about crappy late-night taquerias and diners where criminally bored college students make you perfect milkshakes“ food critic Jonathan Gold in the L.A. documentary „City of Gold“
CONCEPTING PHASE
CHECK 2
DESIGN OF RESEARCH
WHAT‘S THE PROBLEM?
Stussy is not connecting to the upcoming generation of streetwear aficionados!
PROBLEM ON TWO LEVELS
1 IMAGE Stussy as a brand is not perceived as part of the current streetwear culture, as they are lacking new cultural references
2 PRODUCT Stussy products are perceived as too widely available, as there are no appealing, relevant limited collections available
linked
STRATEGY
MOST IMPORTANT INSIGHTS?
Create a campaign focused on revitalising Stussy‘s image in combination with a limited capsule collection
TARGET GROUP
MARKET
TRENDS
The Target Group appreciates Stussy‘s iconic heritage, so it is something that should be capitalized on
The Stussy heritage should be „remixed“ with current cultural influences, as streetwear culture sustains itself by artfully reintroducing old elements into new contexts („newstalgia“)
As food culture is growing and becoming a cultural currency, as well as forming a stronger bond to the streetwear scene, it should be the new and exciting element in the mix
APPROACH
Reintroduce Stussy‘s iconic heritage by remixing it with current food culture, to position them as the original & authentic streetwear brand
Board 1 Indicating the Problem & Strategy
THE BRAND & TARGET GROUP What they‘re about:
laid-back cool
ironic
rich heritage by fusion of different cultural influences (new wave, skate, post-punk, hip-hop) sign of youth & counter-culture the brand started with Shawn Stussy in 80’s L.A. skate & surf culture: taking inspiration from „high culture“ but creating underground interpretations
California roots
laid-back takes on classic american sportswear influenced by the new wave graphic movement
EAR W T E E R THE ST DOS A AFICION
What they‘re about:
subculture fusion
looking to experience a brand’s sens e of culture & lifestyle appreciate authentic heritage & subcultural credibility effortlessly appropriate different subcultures and old references into their lifestyle are into a lo-fi, retro aesthetic
fi retro lo-
most interested in „limiteds“ & spec ial collections multi-cultural, fusion food ; don’t care about being ultra-healthy but want high-quality, fresh ingredients
Board 2 explaining key take-aways from brand & TG research
CREATIVE CONCEPT
STUSSY OLD SKOOL FLAVORS serving streetwear heritage
T NCEP O C D FOO ts, edien ns r g n i tio high rpreta e t n i low ht te-nig sic a l y p crap s and clas ria taque ner fare di ul lavorf f , h s e , fr messy
AIM Refresh Stussy‘s heritage through a fusion of L.A. food culture and retrocali influences
LOS ANG ELES RO edition 01 OTS TRASHY
IRONIC
RETRO CALI
CAPSULE COLLECTION 80‘s new wave graphics fresh takes on classic american workwear
Board 3 showing the starting points for the creative concept
CONCEPTING PHASE
CHECK 2 OVERVIEW
IN A NUTSHELL Stussy Old Skool Flavors - serving streetwear heritage is a concept to reintroduce brand‘s L.A. heritage by translating it into a „Stussy menu“, that can be experienced. This „campaign“ is accompanied by a limited capsule collection that brings back iconic styles.
END PRODUCTS - FOOD CONTENT, ACTUAL DISHES (PHOTOSHOOT, RECIPES) - INDICATION FOR CAPSULE COLLECTION - OVERALL CAMPAIGN STRATEGY (FLOW, CHANNELS, EVENTS, INFLUENCERS...)
FEEDBACK: ALMOST THERE - the main problem with the concept lies in the communication of the idea, it is not clear what I exactly want to do - there needs to be an explanation how the concept links with Stussy. What is the Stussy way of food? - don‘t focus too much on the dishes, it is also about everything around it - the research conclusions need to be formed into clear insights
WORK ON REFINING THE IDEA & CAMPAIGN FLOW AND DON‘T GET LOST IN THE DETAILS OF THE DISHES!
CONCEPTING PHASE
REFOCUS AFTER CHECK 2
NEW INSIGHT! CULT FOLLOWING THROUGH PHYSICAL BRAND EXPERIENCES
at first I didn‘t want to make an event but focus more on food content, however this new insight I found changed my mind!
Streetwear’s currently most relevant brands create their cult following through physical brand experiences that connect directly to the small, local streetwear communities. „retail is not simply about selling clothes. Set up to exhibit, and sometimes sell, collaborations with a host of fellow creatives, Anderson’s modernist outlook saw his temporary space geared towards creating a world for his consumers to dive into.“ (In the name of the Label - Protein Journal)
CLEAR INSIGHTS FOR THE CREATIVE CONCEPT 1
2
While the Streetwear Aficionados are currently busy with other brands, what they know about Stussy’s iconic heritage definitely has value to them. Especially with streetwear’s current obsession with nostalgic references this is something that needs to be capitalized on!
The insider knowledge of being familiar with the back story, cultural references and history of brands is most important to the Streetwear Aficionados. This is what makes products valuable to them and makes them identify with the brand.
3 Streetwear’s currently most relevant brands create their cult following through physical brand experiences that connect directly to the small, local streetwear communities.
4 Food culture has become one of the most important tools for self-expression, as well as the ultimate experience enhancer.
STUSSY OLD SKOOL FLAVORS serving streetwear heritage
WHAT IS IT? A branded food experience, serving an actual „Stussy menu“ inspired by the brand‘s L.A. roots, in order to create buzz around a limited capsule collection of updated iconic styles.
WHAT‘S THE AIM?
HOW DOES IT LINK TO STUSSY?
Refresh Stussy‘s iconic heritage in the minds of the streetwear aficionados, create buzz and get them to talk & share!
Stussy has always been a symbol for counterculture and underground cool. You were only part of it when you knew about it. Same with knowing about the best, underground food places today - they look like not much from the outside, maybe even a bit crappy. Someone who has no clue walks right past. By giving the Streetwear Aficionados an opportunity to be „in-the-know“ with the exclusive event, Stussy reinstates its identity as a „small culture brand“, connecting to the target group through insider knowledge.
SPIRED EXPERIENCE IN A POP-UP FOOD ! ST PA BY STUSSY‘S
edition 01 / OLD SKOOL L.A.
Stussy has a rich heritage of various cultural influences that they have appropriated. Old Skool Flavors is a campaign format, that can be used to „remix“ all of these parts eventually. But since it‘s all about going back to the beginning, the first edition will focus on the brands L.A. roots, as this is where it all started: Laguna Beach in 1980.
4 WHAT IS THE EXPERIENCE GOING TO BE LIKE? exclusive, underground, almost secret experience short, over-before-you-know-it affair at a hole-in-the-wall place, so tiny that people need to stand in line
WHAT IS IT GOING TO LOOK LIKE? RETRO COOL 80‘s retro influences, like new wave graphics & colours, psychedelic neon signs, vintage food packagings and grainy photography recycle the nostalgic feeling of the rebellious, free-spirited youth culture of L.A.‘s skate&surf culture. TRASHY IRONY
Starting to get to a clearer & more specific idea of my creative concept by answering questions
The place is a little tacky, menus stained, the food messy & a little-over-the-top. But on purpose. Seemingly mismatched and trashy elements are a thing - just something not everyone understands. RAW AUTHENTICITY A crappy hole-in-the-wall place, no-fuss & not polished. The place doesn‘t need polishing, because its the rawness is what makes it interesting & relevant.
THE STUSSY MENU? The Stussy menu will consist of dishes that take inspiration from L.A.‘s underground food scene. Opposite to glamorous Beverly Hills, the cities hidden gems are „crappy late-night taquerias and coffeeshops“ serving hispanic streetfood and classic diner fare. Each dish available will represent a different part of Stussy‘s iconic L.A. heritage. The dishes will be named accordingly and there will be a short explanation of what exactly the dish represents - this is a snappy, & fresh way of providing the TG with the background knowledge of Stussy.
CONCEPTING PHASE
ARRIVING AT FINAL CONCEPT
WHERE AM I NOW? My concept is a branded food experience that takes inspiration from underground, „in-the-know“ food culture, which is how it links to Stussy. The dishes served, represent iconic influences from the brand‘s L.A. heritage. WHAT IS MISSING? It is still not specific enough, especially not which dishes to serve exactly!
CRITERIA FOR THE FOOD: - connection to L.A. / California - retro / vintage vibe - versatile so it can be made to fit the different influences
THE MILKSHAKE!
STUSSY SHAKE SHOP VORS #OLDSKOOLFLA
STUSSY‘s L.A. Roots The first edition of Stussy Old Skool Flavors will be the „L.A. Shake Shop“ inspired by the brands beginnings in 80‘s & 90‘s west coast surf & skate culture.
‘S RETRO BEGINNINGS A POP-UP TO EXPERIENCE STUSSY HERITAGE IN A NEW FIRST HAND & DISCOVER THEIR Y! WA The Stussy Shake Shop is the center of the #OldSkoolFlavors campaign. It is a branded, pop-up food experience that presents Stussy’s iconic California heritage in an exciting new context to the Streetwear Aficionados. Besides providing a way to experience Stussy’s retro vibe, the „Shake Shops“ milkshake menu, that references different important figures and cultural influences, feeds the customers with brand heritage knowledge that is so important to them!
WHAT IS IT GOING TO LOOK LIKE?
WHAT‘S ON THE MENU? The pop-up takes inspiration from L.A.‘s underground food scene: „crappy late-night coffeeshops, where criminally bored college students make you perfect milkshakes and let you smoke indoors.“ as famous food-critic Jonathan Gold puts it! The L.A. Shake Shop will be serving up some crazy versions of a west coast staple: the milk-shake! It is a retro L.A. classic just as the iconic styles that Oldskool Flavors is bringing back & the fusion of different ingredients into one represents Shawn Stussy‘s approach of an effortless fusion of subcultures! There are different flavors & lots of toppings, all made from high-quality ingredients! Each shake available will represent a different part of Stussy‘s iconic L.A. heritage. The Shakes will be named accordingly and there will be a short explanation of what exactly that particular shake represents - this is a snappy, & fresh way of providing the Streetwear Aficionados with the background knowledge of Stussy.
„crappy on purpose“ retro diner details worn interior
THE SHAKE SHOP MENU
THE SHAWN
THE NEW WAVE
Vanilla-Chocolate Swirl generously topped wit Oreo crumbs
All Strawberry Shake mixed with white chocolate chips & topped with clouds of cotton candy
THE SKATEMAN
THE JEBBIA
Strawberry-Vanilla Swirl topped with fruit loops & lined with chocolate fudge
All Vanilla Shake swirled with cherry syrup & topped with one mysterious maraschino cherry
SIZES LIVIN‘ LA RGE LIVIN‘ EX TRA LARGE
PHASE 3 EXECUTION
EXECUTION PHASE
OVERVIEW SINCE I WANT TO HIGHLIGHT MY STRATEGIC BRANDING SKILLS A CONCEPT BOOK IS MY MAIN FINAL PRODUCT
development of these 4 components
CAMPAIGN FLOW
SHAKE SHOP MENU
SHAKE SHOP VIBE
CAPSULE COLLECTION
EXECUTION PHASE
CAMPAIGN FLOW The Shake Shop experience is supposed to be at the center of the campaign, however the elements around it are just as important. I decided to form a communication strategy consisting of 4 phases that would bind all elements together seamlessly.
Version 1 (simple flow) Promotion of experience and upcoming capsule collection on Stussy online channels
PRE-LAUNCH small, exclusive pre-launch of the branded experience with curated list of micro influencers
Reach the TG through social media channels of influencers, to activate them to go to the experience
Building of organic (online)buzz with the hashtag
#OLDSKOOLFLAVORS OLD SKOOL FLAVORS POP-UP FOOD EXPERIENCE - the place where the Stussy Menu can be tasted & shared - physical manifestation of the Stussy DNA that the TG can experience - open for only a short amount of time
CAPSULE COLLECTION DROP - very limited quantities of the updated iconic styles - exclusively available at Stussy chapters & Stussy webshop
TG shares own images on their social media channels, increasing the organic exposure of the branded experience
PHASE 1
PHASE 2
- under-the-radar - keep a mysterious vibe so the TG feels like they can discover something - foster interest & activate the TG to go
- actual pop-up experience - encourage the TG to share their experience on social channels - „over-before-you-know-it“, as the experience is only open for two weeks
PHASE 3
PHASE 4
- keep engagement high, also after the event - broader „marketing“, involving bigger streetwear sites to create more buzz - beginning to tease the collection drop
- the collection drop is happening - exclusive & limited - only available at the Shake Shop locations and the Stussy webshop
EXECUTION PHASE
CAMPAIGN FLOW The final campaign flow, including all phases & their corresponding tools.
online buzz will also activate the TG to go to the Shake Shop
PHASE 1
create interest active the TG to attend introduction of #oldskoolflavor
PHASE 2 the actual food experience is happening
PRE-LAUNCH small, exclusive pre-launch of the branded experience with curated list of influencers
TEASER CAMPAIGN - on Stussy social channels - local underground posters - teaser the event to create some interest with oldskool Stussy references & milkshake references - introduction of the #oldskoolflavor
Reach the Streetwear Aficionados / create interest / activate them to go
the place where the Stussy Shakes can be tasted & Stussy‘s retro vibe can be experienced! PRESS PROMOTION local underground magazines that are TG relevant
SHAKE SHOP ZINE small, limited zine that features the milkshakes & makes the links to the brand references „collectable from the actual event“
PHASE 3
feature of the shakes & their inspiration on Stussy‘s website
building #oldskoolflavor keep excitment high after the event teaser for the capsule collection
PHASE 4 release of drop date & actual drop
CAPSULE COLLECTION DROP
#OLDSKOOLFLAVOR Building of organic (online)-buzz with the hashtag
RELEASE OF DROP DATE
TG SHARES ON SOCIAL CHANNELS - through creation of „instagramable moments“ at the event & the snapchat geo-tag filter the TG is encouraged to share their own experiences with #oldskoolflavors
SNAPCHAT GEO TAG FILTER
STUSSY CHANNELS Stussy‘s social channels will release exclusive images from the event, further building #oldskoolflavors teaser of upcoming collection
PRESS PROMOTION coverage of event & upcoming collection by TG relevant streetwear sites (hypebeast, highsnobiety, complex)
- very limited quantities of the 4 looks - exclusively available at Stussy chapters & Stussy webshop
EXECUTION PHASE
SHAKE SHOP VISUALISATIONS Inspiration:
„it‘s about crappy late-night taquerias and coffee- shops where criminally bored college students make you perfect milkshakes and let you smoke indoors.“
this is what I need to translate: THE EXPERIENCE exclusive & underground vibe over-before-you-know-it affair hole-in-the-wall places, so tiny people need to stand in line
food critic Jonathan Gold in the L.A. documentary „City of Gold“
LOOK & FEEL MOODBOARD
RETRO DETAILS WEST COAST COOL
TRASHY VIBE
UNDERGROUND OLD SKOOL DINER
STUSSY SHAKE SHOP THE LOCATION
STUSSY MEMORABILIA
How to visualise the Shake Shop Vibe? Inspiration 1 Rauschenberg Collages
DECISION TO VISUALISE EVENT AS COLLAGES TO KEEP DYNAMIC VIBE & MAKE REFERENCE TO OLD SKATE ZINES AND STUSSY ADS
2 80‘s & 90‘s Skate Zines
3 Stussy‘s 90‘s Collage Ads
EXECUTION PHASE
SHAKE SHOP VISUALISATIONS Process
One of the first experimentations: The aim was to visualise the outside vibe of the Shake Shop, the building I chose however is a little too american gas station and does not look underground enough.
Getting closer to an inside view, has a nice dynamic feel already but needs more people to create a buzzy atmosphere. Also, some more props & memorabilia to indicate the retro vibe.
Third try of a new view of the counter. Could go somewhere, but it is quite gray and seems less like a collage because it is kind of „boxed in“. Maybe add more color?
Final Visualisations
Final view of outside vibe: dark atmosphere and all the guys hanging out communicate the gathering of the „insiders“
Final view of the inside vibe: also here props & the right guests bring across the atmosphere
EXECUTION PHASE
SIGNATURE SHAKES & STYLES Since the whole concept is about bringing back Stussy‘s retro past, I wanted the Shakes & the Capsule collection to each represent one of the most iconic influences. So I decided to go with 4 signature Shakes & Styles and at first developed the 4 directions.
1 SHAWN STUSSY started making boards when he was 13 in his parent‘s garage loves the laid-back surf lifestyle signed his finishes boards with a black, chunky marker (=the Stussy signature) managed to effortlessly fuse different subcultures without losing a chilled attitude
SHAKE vanilla & chocolate swirl, representing the fusion of subcultures oreo crumbles = the black signature
STYLE effortless, light-wash denim, laid-back, bucket hat with Stussy scribble
2 NEW WAVE SURF CULTURE 80‘s california surf culture (loud & confident) 80‘s new wave graphic design that Shawn implemented on his surf boards neon pastels & bold graphic shapes surf fashion needed to be able to go from „beach to bar“
SHAKE all strawberry shake with mint chocolate chips to represent the bold colour palette & graphic prints
STYLE all-over bold print in the Stussy pastels, waver hat, breezy linen fabric
SINCE THE SHAKES & THE COLLECTION ARE LINKED I STARTED TO DEVELOP THEM TOGETHER IN THIS OVERVIEW
3 80‘S & 90‘S SKATE CULTURE
3 EARLY HIP HOP / BEASTIE BOYS
West Coast Skate Culture (dorky cool & rebellious)
the post-punk & early hip hop influences that helped Stussy reach national fame
Stussy represented this with it‘s iconic Skateman graphic print
the beginning of the brand‘s extensive influencer network (Stussy Tribe)
longboards, short shorts & sweat bands
The Beastie Boys became one of the first influencers / tribe members
„no fucks given“ attitude / we can have it all and we don‘t care
Stussy‘s interlocked S‘s bucket hats became an integral part of their kit
SHAKE
SHAKE
all vanilla shake that represents laid-back base with fruit loops & chocolate fudge toppings that give the „dorky cool“ vibe
all chocolate shake that shows the indulgence and the all-in attitude & maraschino cherry that‘s the „cherry on top of their kit“
STYLE
STYLE
frottee, high knee socks, sweatband, beige/orange colour palette
denim, interlocked S‘s bucket hat, placement print, dark colour palette
EXECUTION PHASE
MILKSHAKE VISUALISATION setting up a mini studio in my apartment background choice: reference to cheap, plastic „marble“ sometimes used in crappy restaurants
the results. Represents the trashy vibe with the messiness of the shake the addition of the name makes it seem like the shake is a character
to go further from the first test shoot, I created a background for each shake from a detail from their inspiration so the colors would match.
the shoot did not turn out the way I had planned and failed to assume the same quality as the first shot (on the left)
VISUALISING THE SHAKES INDIVIDUALLY IN A SHOOT DOES NOT REPRESENT THEIR BACK STORY & REFERENCES: TRY COLLAGES TO VISUALISE THE INSPIRATION BEHIND EACH SHAKE
EXECUTION PHASE
MILKSHAKE VISUALISATION Since the shakes are all about the brand references I decided to visualise them with a collage that would show the inspiration, accompanied by a short text explaining the connections and a list of the ingredients.
VANILLA-CHOCOLATE SHAKE & OREO CRUMBS The Shawn is a classic - it doesn’t need much to be great. The man’s unpretentious attitude is represented in simple chocolate & vanilla flavors, mixed to create something amazing - just like he did when he was fusing everything from surf to punk to skate to hip hop. The crushed Oreo topping hints at the famous Stussy signature that Shawn quickly scribbled on each board he’d made in a chunky black marker.
ALL VANILLA SHAKE & CHOCOLATE FUDGE & FRUIT LOOPS The Skateman represents iconic west coast skate culture. Low-key but with a decidedly „no fucks given“ attitude and confident, dorky cool styles. The classic vanilla flavor builds the low-key base but it’s the chocolate fudge & fruit loops toppings that refer to longboards, short shorts and crazy stunts!
ALL STRAWBERRY SHAKE &WHITE CHOCOLATE CHIPS The New Wave is probably one of the truest incarnations of „Livin’ Large“, as it represents 80’s new wave surf culture. Outspoken graphics on Shawn’s coveted boards spilled over to lifestyle & outfits of surfer dudes with confident style and nonchalant attitudes. An All Strawberry Shake topped with white chocolate chips links to the bright pastels of new wave graphics, while representing these guys’ desire to stand out from the crowd!
ALL CHOCOLATE SHAKE & MARACHINO CHERRY The Beastie refers to the early days of hip hop with the Beastie Boys becoming one of the first members of Stussy’s International Tribe. All in with an all chocolate shake refers to their ballsy attitude and their philosophy of just going for it! The single maraschino cherry topping refers to hip hop’s luxe side and the fact that to the Beasties Stussy’s bucket hats were the „cherry on top of their kit.“
EXECUTION PHASE
CAPSULE COLLECTION INSPIRATION
loose-fitted „suits“
short shorts & knee-high socks
frottee & sweatbands
placement prints
new wave surf graphics all-over bold prints
First Moodboard Look & Feel Collection
STUSSY OLD SKOOL FLAVORS CAPSULE COLLECTION
COLOR PALETTE
LOOK & FEEL
This established the overall direction of the capsule collection to keep it coherent. The next step was to work out the individual styles that correspond to the milkshake flavors
EXECUTION PHASE
CAPSULE COLLECTION west coast chill classic
THE SHAWN
unpretentious
MATERIALS & COLORS
soft, light-wash denim
off-white structured cotton
Shawn Stussy, founder of the distinct Stussy lifestyle that spawned an entire culture that we know today as streetwear! He was the master of effortlessly fusing cultural influences from surf to skate to punk to hiphop. At heart he’s still a surfer though, in love with local beach life and and an unpretentious attitude. When he started making boards in his garage in the late 70’s, listening to Bob Marley, he’d sign them with his graffitiinspired black Stussy signature - the iconic logo that would become one of the most powerful signifiers for youth & counter-culture.
THE SKATEMAN
rebellious
dorky cool
no fucks given
MATERIALS & COLORS
soft, medium-wash denim
faded orange, soft cotton
bright orange terry
If waves were bad you just got on your board west coast skate culture, another one of Stussy’s most iconic inspirations. Longboards, short shorts, sweatbands paired with crazy stunts and a decidedly „No fucks given“ attitude helped spawn Stussy’s distinct atmosphere of effortless cool. Captured for eternity with Shawns iconic „The Skateman“ graphic.
THE NEW WAVE
confident
outspoken style new wave graphics
MATERIALS & COLORS
all-over graphic print
loose linen fabric
80’s west coast surf culture, one of the earliest Stussy inspirations! The outspoken new wave graphics on Shawns surf boards, that spilled over to lots of pieces from the collections, caught the attention of surfer dudes that needed attire to go from beach to bar at night.With bright pastels and bold graphic compositions this might be one of the truest incarnations of Stussy’s philosophy of Livin’ Large!
THE BEASTIES
early hip hop
ballsy attitude streetcredit
MATERIALS & COLORS
soft, mediumwash denim
vintage textured, soft black cotton
off-white cotton
Coming from post-punk to the early days of hip hop, the Beastie Boys were riding the same wave as Stussy in the mid-80’s as they were both important players in shaping the zeitgeist of that time. Boom boxes and a ballsy but never too serious attitude, rocking Stussy bucket hats with the interlinked S - The Beastie Boys became three of the brands first tribe members, marking the beginning of a wide network of like-minded individuals all over the planet.
EXECUTION PHASE
PRESENTATION RED / GREEN
Shake Shop Vibe Visualisations
The Problem / The Aim / What is it?
CONCEPT BOOK A4 Overview
TG Book and Food Trend Book (Stepping Stone Products)
FEEDBACK: GREEN The concept book as my main product is well worked out and everything is connected to insights. Campaign Flow: rethink to open the shop longer than three days to make sure that there is enough time for it to be „discovered“ Main thing to work on: the presentation. At the moment it is underwhelming and does not communicate the vibe described in the concept book. I need to decide what the focus of the presentation is and make it visually exciting
FOCUS: COMMUNICATE THE RICHNESS OF THE CONCEPT BOOK ALSO IN THE FINAL PRESENTATION
EXECUTION PHASE
FINAL PRESENTATION
FEEDBACK This still is not very visually appealing, the collage in the middle does not explain all aspects of the concept. There is a lot of text on the wall presentation, maybe move this to the table. Where are the milkshake collages? They are what it is about!
EXPERIMENTATION MAIN COLLAGE
I DECIDED TO CREATE A NEW COLLAGE THAT SUMS UP ALL COMPONENTS OF THE SHAKE SHOP AS THE FOCUS OF THE FINAL PRESENTATION
I started with the view I had from the inside of the shop and added a counter & staff to indicate visually that it is a Shake Shop
Experimentation with more retro & Stussy memorabilia. It all looks still quite boring & empty though
The addition of the menu and the Shake image make it clear that it is about milkshakes!
FINAL COLLAGE
The final collage: Colourful Stussy memorabilia and a dynamic Shake poster make it more interesting & clear. Also more staff give it a more lively feel.
EXECUTION PHASE
FINAL PRESENTATION / COLLAGES
FEEDBACK these two collages are not as fashionable as the other ones and focus too much on one subject (e.g. skater or Beastie Boys) instead of representing a culture.
REWORK THEM TO MAKE THEM MORE FASHIONABLE
Only one image of the Beastie Boys is sufficient to make it clear it is about them. The addition of the tapes and the driving car make reference to california road trips blasting music and the Stussy speech bubble adds the brand‘s take on hip hop / post-punk culture.
Also, here there were too many images of skaters. I decided on two final ones that also have a more fashionable feel. The addition of the zine adds another dimension of retro skate culture, while the „Skate tough little boys“ reinforces the ironic, cheeky vibe of this collage.
EXECUTION PHASE
FINAL PRESENTATION EXPERIMENTATION
A POP-UP FOOD EXPERIENCE BRINGING BACK STUSSY‘S ICONIC HERITAGE
VANILLA-CHOCOLATE SHAKE & OREO CRUMBS
ALL STRAWBERRY SHAKE & WHITE CHOCOLATE CHIPS
ALL VANILLA SHAKE & CHOCOLATE FUDGE & FRUIT LOOPS
ALL CHOCOLATE SHAKE & MARACHINO CHERRY
The Shake collages work well, but it is not clear what it is about and a little boring
VANILLA-CHOCOLATE SHAKE & OREO CRUMBS
ALL VANILLA SHAKE & CHOCOLATE FUDGE & FRUIT LOOPS
A POP-UP FOOD EXPERIENCE BRINGING BACK STUSSY‘S ICONIC HERITAGE ALL STRAWBERRY SHAKE & WHITE CHOCOLATE CHIPS
ALL CHOCOLATE SHAKE & MARACHINO CHERRY
This one is communicating that it is about milkshakes, but it is missing the event aspect
EXECUTION PHASE
FINAL PRESENTATION SETUP
A POP-UP FOOD EXPERIENCE RE-ESTABLISHIING STUSSY AS THE ORIGINAL STREETWEAR BRAND
VANILLA-CHOCOLATE SHAKE & OREO CRUMBS
ALL STRAWBERRY SHAKE & WHITE CHOCOLATE CHIPS
ALL VANILLA SHAKE & CHOCOLATE FUDGE & FRUIT LOOPS
„it‘s about crappy late-night coffee-shops where criminally bored college students make you perfect milkshakes and let you smoke indoors.“
ALL CHOCOLATE SHAKE & MARACHINO CHERRY
food critic Jonathan Gold in the documentary „City of Gold“ about L.A.‘s underground food scene
Wall presentation / all collages cut out separately
WHAT IS IT?
SHORT CONCEPT EXPLANATION CONCEPT BOOK
Table presentation / covered with off-pink paper
MINI PROCESS BOOK & RESEARCH PRODUCTS
MINI PROCESSOOK
SOURCES
RESEARCH
WGSN Insider. (2017). New London conference reveals future health and food trends. [online] Available at: https://www. wgsn.com/blogs/new-london-conference-future-trends-healthfood/ [Accessed 31 Mar. 2017]. Kan, E. (2017). Fashion and Food: How the Worlds are Intersecting with Dr. Romanelli, Joy Yoon, Foodbeast and Yardbird. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https:// hypebeast.com/2014/4/fashion-and-food-how-the-worlds-areintersectingThegourmand.co.uk. (2017). The Gourmand: A contemporary food, arts and culture journal. [online] Available at: http:// thegourmand.co.uk/ [Accessed 7 Apr. 2017]. Woods, J. and Gordon, C. (2017). Ghetto Gastro are probably the coolest chefs in the world. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/ article/33479/1/ghetto-gastro-are-probably-the-coolest-chefsin-the-world [Accessed 7 Apr. 2017]. Yeung, H. and Cheung, H. (2017). Hiroshi Fujiwara on His Start in Streetwear and His Fascination with Food. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2016/12/ hiroshi-fujiwara-ssense-interview [Accessed 7 Apr. 2017]. Good Hood, (2017). Brand Focus: Stussy. [online] Available at: http://goodhoodstore.com/mens/news/brand-focus-stussy [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Cheese, R. (2017). Shawn Stussy Biography | Highsnobiety. [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: http://www.highsnobiety. com/2016/01/22/shawn-stussy-biography/ [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Complex UK. (2017). “It’s Not About Clothes”: Bobby Hundreds Explains Why Streetwear Is a Culture Not an Industry. [online] Available at: http://uk.complex.com/ style/2017/02/what-is-streetwear-by-bobby-hundreds [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Highsnobiety. (2017). A History of Stussy Tribe Varsity Jackets | Highsnobiety. [online] Available at: http://www. highsnobiety.com/2012/12/20/a-history-of-stussy-tribe-varsityjackets/#slide-2 [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Lucky Peach. (2017). City of Gold - Lucky Peach. [online] Available at: http://luckypeach.com/city-of-gold/ [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017].
Dazed Digital (2017). Why do we love taking photos of the things we eat?. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/photography/article/28851/1/why-do-welove-taking-photos-of-the-things-we-eat [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Protein Journal. (2017). In the Name of the Label / Protein Journal. [online] Available at: https://www.prote.in/journal/ articles/in-the-name-of-the-label [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. The Business of Fashion. (2017). How Stüssy Became a $50 Million Global Streetwear Brand Without Selling Out. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/intelligence/how-stussy-became-a-50-million-globalstreetwear-brand-without-selling-out [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. The Business of Fashion. (2017). Inside Supreme: Anatomy of a Global Streetwear Cult — Part I. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/ inside-supreme-anatomy-of-a-global-streetwear-cult%E2%80%94-part-i [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. The Business of Fashion. (2017). What the Fashion System Can Learn From Supreme-Style Product Drops. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ intelligence/high-fashion-lessons-from-streetwear-dropssupreme-palace-gosha [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. The Business of Fashion. (2017). Will High Fashion’s Love Affair with Streetwear Last?. [online] Available at: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/will-highfashions-love-affair-streetwear-last [Accessed 8 Jun. 2017]. Bompasandparr.com. (2017). Bompas & Parr. [online] Available at: http://bompasandparr.com/ [Accessed 9 Jun. 2017]. Gordinier, J. (2017). Food Lovers Aim to Give the Bronx Its Due. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: https://www.nytimes. com/2016/01/27/dining/ghetto-gastro-food-the-bronx.html?_ r=1 [Accessed 9 Jun. 2017]. Stussy.com. (2017). Features | Stussy. [online] Available at: http://stussy.com/features [Accessed 9 Jun. 2017]. Unushko, C. (2017). The Vision S/S 18 Trend Report. WGSN.
CONCEPT BOOK BRAND VALUE VISUALISATION
TARGET GROUP IMAGES
Acid Drop Skateboard Tricks [image] Available at: http:// www.atimetoget.com/2009/07/acid-drop.html [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@mobjustice. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/4W702kh4NG/?taken-by=mobjustice [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Stussy S/S 16 Lookbook[image] Available at: http://www. estillmag.com/kolekcja-kith-x-iro-w-stylu-high-fashion/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@palaceskateboards. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ3UbYRg0zZ/?takenby=palaceskateboards [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Stussy Vancouver. [image] Available at: https://68.media. tumblr.com/19efc23ce61768873d2656fdf886bdd0/tumblr_ nqdepogXtp1qcabfxo1_500.jpg [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@sembman. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/6R0oojJG0R/?taken-by=sembman [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Tyrone Lebon Stussy S/S 15 Los Angeles. [image] Available at: http://www.stussy.com/features/stussy-spring-2015-bytyrone-lebon [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@sembman. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/5-bedGpG7O/?taken-by=sembman [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Stussy Features[image] Available at: http://scontent. cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/1749436 0_406672606375870_6659809034008264704_n.jpg?ig_ cache_key=MTQ3OTI5NTI4NzA3NjE2MDY3Mw%3D%3D.2 [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@shaimans. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/BGRmkEfxBnX/?taken-by=shaimans [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Tyrone Lebron Stussy Paris F/W 16. [image] Available at: http://www.stussy.com/features/paris-stussy-fall-2016-bytyrone-lebon [Accessed 14 May 2017].
@shawnbastard. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/BI2wVmoAHZo/?taken-by=shawnbastard [Accessed 14 May 2017]. @youngmallgrab. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/p/BQN-aIZgMpj/?taken-by=youngmallgrab [Accessed 14 May 2017]. Anton Corbijn Exhibition. (2017). [image] Available at: http:// www.pulpcollectors.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ Anton-Corbijn-Gemeentemuseum-Fotomuseum-%C2%A9PulpCollectors-38.jpg [Accessed 14 May 2017].
INFLUENCERS
QUOTES
Hiroshi Fujiwara Instagram.com. (2017). @fujiwarahiroshi • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/ fujiwarahiroshi/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Cheese, R. (2017). Shawn Stussy Biography | Highsnobiety. [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: http://www.highsnobiety. com/2016/01/22/shawn-stussy-biography/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Eddie Huang Instagram.com. (2017). Eddie Huang (@mreddiehuang) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https:// www.instagram.com/mreddiehuang/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].
Gold, J. (2017). City of Gold - Lucky Peach. [online] Lucky Peach. Available at: http://luckypeach.com/city-of-gold/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].The Business of Fashion. (2017).
Jordon Alexander Instagram.com. (2017). Jordon Alexander (@youngmallgrab) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https:// www.instagram.com/youngmallgrab/ [Accessed 14 May 2017].
How Stüssy Became a $50 Million Global Streetwear Brand Without Selling Out. [online] Available at: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/how-stussybecame-a-50-million-global-streetwear-brand-without-sellingout [Accessed 14 May 2017].