Keeping in tune with modern developments, the collection focuses on the concept of gender fluidity; to feel unidentified as a particular sex or a dynamic ethos of being neutral. It breaks down barriers of fashion garments identifying in traditional means of sex and rather than appearing unisex it pushes to identify as one, whilst exploring the feelings and reactions to the term which is at present relatively new or unknown. Prematurely inspired by artist M.C.Escher’s interlocked designs and attitude towards reality, experiments with fluidity and the idea of the ‘unknown’ are trialled. Moving away from graphic geometrics and looking at the theory behind tessellation patterns, shapes loosen and expand starting a journey that will end up completely different by the end of the process. Eschers work provides interesting basis for pattern experimentation ideas to create unusual shapes, lines and volume within garments. The principles of tessellation being that the contours of one object fit perfectly into that of another ties in with the idea of man and woman and gender as a whole and provides a strong starting point for design research. Using the framework provided by the global pioneers of Japanese design such as Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, the collection adopts like-minded qualities such as exaggeration in bodylines, fluid structure and clean cuts. The main body of the concept comes from personal interpretations of growing up in Glasgow. Looking past the cheesy, stereotypical kilts and bagpipes that Scotland is imagined as; the concept looks into the gritty, urban reality of maturing in a rough, concrete surrounding. Materialising from the idea of strange beauty, vision and connection are vital in making the collection contemporary and unique by looking past the harsh and ugly surface of the city and finding attraction in areas that would be otherwise overlooked or considered passed their prime. The use of photography is utilised in pushing this idea further by analysing elements such as colour and texture with the lens acting as a personal viewpoint and individual narrative. Celebrating the grounded, working class population that dates back to the Glasgow slums, every individual of the present Glasgow reality is explored from poverty and addiction to the gay community; each painting the colours of the culture in their own way and being realised through mediums such as art and language. Completing first hand research and interviews with a variety of faces promotes the deep insight and intimate approach. Of course it is hard to ignore the beauty of the detailed historic architecture in Glasgow’s centre however the ‘pot of smoke’ constructions and everyday transport backdrops have their own curious beauty and intrigue. Conceptual art is a driving force in offering a visual aid of the overall concept and it’s values, portraying both a story and depth of personal connection. Barbara Kruger’s style of bold image and declarative typography offers strong relatable looks at controversial aspects of society. Robert Rauschenberg portrays a similar aesthetic however through different mediums, combining graphic and painterly art with unusual objects to create innovative composition and awareness. Taking advantage of both conceptions, the collection employs collage and overlay effects to better envision the depth of the ideas behind the garments whether this is in terms of supporting visuals or literally. With an expressive approach, emotion and mood are suggestive. Autumn/Winter trend ‘Artisan’ acts as a basis for styles to promote through the collection in tune with the fall season. Coinciding with the ‘working class’ aesthetic, the trend delves into industrial and rustic influences and ragged styles, promoting the idea of tradition and trustworthiness. Loose, over proportioned silhouettes contrast against hints of traditional tailoring and clean cut patterns with an overall theme of ‘fluidity.’ Oversized and awkward layering is used for rough styling and unsized garments fitting differently to each individual. Various techniques and crafts are used to create unique texture and a DIY aesthetic with focus on fastenings and hand made details. Contrasts of fabrics provide interest and 3D texture reminiscent of those present in the city surroundings. Varying weight, feel and composition of materials offer a portrayal of the differing emotions and chapters of the story being told, capturing a touchable insight. Layerings of wool and silks against more technical fabrics create the contrast of softness and harshness representing the make up and physicality of the city as well as the opposing opinions towards gender neutralism. Celebrating the unstyled as boundaries disappear. Merging the worlds of fashion and art this idea focuses on using different creative avenues to pursue a contemporary and unique design. Highly expressive and artistic through mixed media and surface texture, the idea is to promote a story and depth through the garments, as they will pose individual and personal attributes. Placed between a mid level and high-end market bracket, this collection is aimed to intrigue a varied customer. Competitors are relatable brands through style aesthetic although perhaps varying in other factors like price such as ACNE and Rick Owens. Each brand being edgy and unique through signature style, they also remain practical and luxurious enough in a high end bracket whilst continuing to be controversial through their choices in ‘facing’ the brand.
CRUX
H00131593