Digital Printing & Laser Cutting Research
Digital Printing • • • • • • • •
Digital printing is a process in which prints are directly applied to fabrics with a printer. Digital printing offers rapid results. Quicker design process compared to traditional techniques. You can create a seamless repeat pattern super quick and easy with an irregular shape. Reducing 95% use of water, 75% use of energy, and minimizing textile waste. Designs can be created digitally with almost any graphic design software (Photoshop and Illustrator are the most popular). Also existing artwork or photographs can be scanned and then digitally manipulated to make a pattern. The major downside to digital printing is the cost. As with any new technology, the costs are always high when it first becomes available. As time goes on and the technology continues to develop it will undoubtedly become more affordable. If machine was to break it would stop production all together. Website - http://www.fashionising.com/industry/b--digital-printing-and-fashion-23077.html Danielle Locastro, Director of Operations for New York and Los Angeles-based digital fabric printer First2Print, agrees. Digital printing technology “Is enabling creative individuals to get their ideas out and on to fabric.” Because designers now rely on digital technology – from Photoshop and illustrator to digital photography – digital printing is “the tool” that works best with that, says Danielle Locastro. Digital fabric printing is “probably the greatest innovation of 21st-century fashion.” The major appeal comes from its relative lack of limitations, in comparison to traditional silkscreen, and its compatibility with the technology designers are using during the creative process anyway. With digital fabric printing there are no colour limitations. Danielle Locastro says digital printing has “broken down the barriers of traditional textiles. In digital fabric printing you also don’t have to have a specific [pattern] repeat, so you can custom engineer panel pieces to fit your garment, and the fashion designer can become more of a designer with strategic placement, about where they want their prints to fall.”
Digital Printing Website http://www.elle.com/news/culture/digitalprint-fashion-exhibit The advancements of digital printing and textile development is allowing designers to further their visions on cloth. Digital printing was first used in the carpet industry in the 1970s and then later on large format banners in the '80s. It finally found its place in fashion in the early 1990s. Issey Miyake was one of the first to seize the cloth tactic for his Guest Artist Series, The technology was favoured by Alexander McQueen and his Spring 2010 collection, Plato’s Atlantis, put digital printing on the fashion map. Digital printing will continue to impact the look and economics of fashion and is poised to become the primary method of printing for the 21st century."
Laser Cutting • • •
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Laser cutting is a technology that uses a laser to cut materials. An advantage to laser cutting is that its visually effective because it is intricate, accurate and unique. The focused laser beam is directed at the material, which then either melts, burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of gas, leaving an edge with a high-quality surface finish. There are many different methods in cutting using lasers, with different types used to cut different material. Some of the methods are vaporization, melt and blow, melt blow and burn, thermal stress cracking, scribing, cold cutting and burning stabilized laser cutting. Disadvantage of laser cutting is that some fabrics will not work due to the fabric catching fire or melting. Laser cut designs are not always bespoke as it will be a mass production. Promise exclusivity is possible which will increase the value of the product.
Laser cutting for Vera Wang. This is a close-up image of silk ready to be laser cut for Vera Wang’s bridal dress line. Website http://lasercutfabric.com/blog/
Laser cut hand woven textile for couture jacket. This is a close-up shot of a custom laser cut applied on a hand woven textile for our clients couture jacket! This design was of a “snake” that wrapped around the whole jacket.
Laser Cutting
The Laser Cut Fabric and Zac Posen collaboration: Above are the three dresses that Zac Posen had laser cut with Laser Cut Fabric. After his big break in 2000 this designer has been all over the fashion charts with lines hitting the runway to lines hitting the Target shelves. In 2008 Laser Cut Fabric as a part of Laser Cutting Shapes got the honour to be able to work with Zac Posen to cut pieces for his Spring/Summer collection. There are many benefits to laser cutting that designers take advantage of, such as the unique ability to cut intricate patterns and the fact that does not have to sew the edges because the laser seals them.
The Pattern you wish to be laser cut must be a stencil pattern of a continuous line or it will not work in the laser cutting machine. The laser cutter technician will then configure the laser cutting machine to the correct speed an laser distance correctly for your chosen material. The machine will the follow the paths of your pattern or art work and cut out the components you have drawn. Laser cutting enables mass production, it is a technical process that reduces man power. With it being a mass production it becomes less unique, unless the buyer obtains exclusivity this will have a direct impact on the retail price of the garment. Dorothy Perkins produce garments that have been laser cut.
3D Printing
The invention of the 3D printer was in 1983 by Chuck Hull of 3D Systems. Positives • • •
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3D printers inspire creativity and ground-breaking designs. Artistes and designers use the 3D printers to prototype objects. 3D printers turn computer data into physical objects. (http://www.techrepublic.com/article/10-factson-3d-printing-understanding-techs-next-biggame-changer/) 3D Printers print a model in layers( http://i.materialise.com/blog/entry/new-to-3d-printing-8-basic-facts ) Because of this layer-by-layer printing process, an escape hole is usually necessary to properly print and clean your models. Since the 80s, many new materials for 3D printing have entered the market, including gold, silver, concrete, and various other metals. Over the last year alone we have seen 3D printed houses, drones, dresses, jewellery and table wear being printed. 3D Printing Can Lower Production Costs.
Negatives • • • •
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Machinery Is expensive Staff would need training to use the machines Use of electricity Under privileged countries will suffer as too expensive and also demand for natural printing may not be needed Technical hitches No craftsmanship
Customised Printing Soon enough the question won't be how we will print things, but what we will print. Customization is the next buzzword in the industry, according to Pete Basiliere. Website http://www.techrepublic.com/article/10-facts-on-3d-printing-understanding-techs-next-big-game-changer/ With customised printing there is a lot of advantages and not many disadvantages. Disadvantages: • Costly/expensive Advantages: • Limited garment silhouette • Eco friendly less fabric wasted • Results are distinctive and dramatic to be printed on to. • Extremely accurate designs • Its personal an the customer becomes the designer. Customised printing initially started as a crowd-sourcing concept and made-to-order service, but has evolved to be a platform for digital fashion design. Digitally printed fabric is a fundamental design decision on many levels. It allows us to produce a physical product that matches extremely accurately to the design preview online.
CAD Software AutoCAD is a commercial software application for 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) and drafting — available since 1982 as a desktop application and since 2010 as a mobile web- and cloud-based app marketed as AutoCAD 360. AutoCAD was first released in December 1982. AutoCAD is used across a wide range of industries, by architects, project managers, engineers, designers, and other professionals. Advantages:
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Design can be easily erased and changed Can be zoomed in for more detailed sections Can be copied and pasted many times Depending on skill, can be neater Can be quicker Can be sent to elsewhere quickly Can be stored in a safe place Can be checked for measurements by the computer Can easily mass produce identical products Can work throughout the night so can produce product 24 hours a day
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If computer problem, all data will be lost If not checked properly, the object created can go very wrong Can be very expensive Can be hard to do and handling needs training Since not manual, can be slightly irritating because if not familiar with technology, it is very hard to insure exactly what is wanted by the designer e.g. If wanted something engraved instead of cut, the line colour has to be changed into blue instead of red. Sometimes you can't do everything you want to because the tools aren't available Lots of people lost their jobs when CAD CAM originally came out
Adobe Photoshop Photoshop was created in 1988 by Thomas and John Knoll. It can edit and compose raster images in multiple layers and supports masks, alpha compositing and several colour models including RGB, CMYK, Lab colour space (with capital L), spot colour and duotone. Photoshop has vast support for graphic file formats but also uses its own PSD and PSB file formats which support all the aforementioned features. In addition to raster graphics, it has limited abilities to edit or render text, vector graphics (especially through clipping path), 3D graphics and video. Programs developed and distributed independently of Photoshop that can run inside it and offer new or enhanced features.
3D Body Scanning In the last two decades, 3D scanning technologies developed in other industrial sectors were successfully applied to the measurement and scanning of the human body. Methods and techniques are continuously ameliorated, more efficient and performing scanning systems are produced every year and new software tools are developed unceasingly. Online clothes shopping has always been a risky business due to variations in sizing, but now a new service has been launched that uses 3D body scanning to perfectly match consumers with the right clothing sizes. Named Bodi.me, the service uses an individual’s data to find the perfect size in a wide range of leading clothing brands. This method is available to both men and women, Bodi.me is built on complex technology to achieve an accurate result with different brands. Consumers provide their body data by entering manually-taken measurements, using their webcam or by going to a 3D scanner booth to get completely accurate data about their size. Using 3D scanners to create fashion is not entirely new – high-end fashion store Selfridges has been offering a 3D scanning service since 2011 – but their accuracy has increased significantly in recent years. Getting a 3D bodyscan will eventually cost £5 (€6/$8), but for now it will be free to build interest in the product. Bodi.me is completely free to consumers, and plans to make money by charging fashion companies for the service. At present the system seems to be working: the company already provides sizing information for leading brands such as Topshop, Mango, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste and Forever 21. This could mean that tailored clothing becomes far more affordable, as consumers are able to order from traditionally cheap tailors based in areas such as Southeast Asia. Although first and foremost Bodi.me is designed for fashion purposes, Mazzoni has other, wider plans for the technology. Because it allows consumers to regularly update their details, it offers long-term data about their changing size, which could be used for fitness purposes. Perhaps unsurprising is the obligatory private community that is also on the horizon. However unlike many brand-specific communities, this one has a very clear benefit for consumers. It would enable friends and family to have access to your measurements, putting an end to the nightmare of ill-fitting presents. Bodi.me could be supplying the missing piece of the puzzle when it comes to online shopping – trying on clothing has always been the main deterrent to shopping online, and with that gone it could be the final toll for fashion on the high street. But Bodi.me will have to work to stay ahead of the game. Ebay has already forked out for a similar service, and more companies are likely to follow soon.
http://www.factor-tech.com/connected-world/871-3d-body-scanning-bringing-perfect-sizing-to-online-clothes-shopping/
3D body Scanning Today’s fast changing and less predictable fashion market environment makes it increasingly challenging for retailers and brands to develop the right products for their clientele. 3D-A-Porter believe that gathering measurement data and purchasing behaviour will allow brands to create consumerrelevant products in a pro-active way and thus improve sales and margin performance. 3D-A-Porter offer accurate measurement data and 3D visualization solutions to improve online and offline fashion sales, while securing less returns and an increase in brand loyalty. They give customers a positive virtual try-on shopping experience and fashion brands exciting PR opportunities. Their 3D body scanning solution for public sector uniform manufacturing reduce the cost of production in the short- and long-term. http://3d-a-porter.com/
3D Body Scanning
3D Garments
3D Virtual Try-On
3D Mirrors
3D body scanning technologies have greatly improved in 2013. Scan yourself in a booth, from your computer or from your phone‌
Quality 3D Pattern Software allow the visualization of any garment pattern in 3D, based on real fabric characteristics.
Allow customers to virtually try-on clothes, at their own time, in their own sizes and on any connected device.
Your customers can now virtually try-on clothes in the retail shop without having to undress thanks to the use of magic mirrors.
Summary In conclusion of my slide show I think that Digital Generation will have a large impact within the fashion industry. Both good and bad. Due to new generations being born into the digital generations they will not gain the tradition of hands craft, making people lazier as everything will be produced for them via digital creation. Therefore a lot more energy and electricity will be used with the high powered machines. Although the digital techniques are a brilliant method to bring individuality and uniqueness to each piece of clothing. It doesn't produces any material waste also. Underprivileged countries could either be harmed or could possibly gain from this digital generation. Poorer countries will not be able to afford the machines, so they will always be making handcrafted items, so there could be a possible boost within their orders due to the higher end market digitally producing fashion.
Digital Print Boards
My Samples My Lazer Cut
My Digital Print
This pattern was hand drawn then refined and repeated in Photoshop.
My Fashion Range Boards
My Inspiration Board
Hand drawn Image
My Inspiration Board
Hand Drawn Image
My Final Fashion Collection
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Evaluation Of Laser Cutting & Digital printing Laser cutting is visually effective because its intricate, detailed and accurate. It is also technically effective because the quality is not lost in repetition. You can change the size of your pattern bigger or smaller before the laser cut process. The designs are unique and individual and CAD designs are quicker. The laser cut process is a quick process unless the design is very large an very detailed which can cause a back log in production. You can enhance your laser cut designs by combining digital prints or other fabrics to the background of your laser cut pattern. My laser cut pattern has been distorted, it appears to be squashed. This is not down to the laser cutting process. This is due to the laser cutting technician not pressing the shift key when resizing my pattern in illustrator. My first attempt at pattern cutting did not work due to me following just the outline of my pattern which then left me with just a large pattern hole with no inside detail. A pattern that you want to be laser cut must be a stencil pattern with a continuous line. Pattern cutting is not always bespoke because it’s a mass production, this means the clothes will be less value. But promised exclusivity can be done which then heightens the value of the product. Laser cutting is an expensive process to start up, machine and training ect. But once up an running it quickly pays for its self. Certain fabrics will not work within the laser cutter, due to them either catching fire or melting. E.g. PVC can not be used, as it also gives of harmful fumes due to it containing chlorine. Also light colour fabrics can be left with a singed brown mark which is not suitable for sale. If the machine breaks at any point production will stop. Baring this in mind I will be restricted as to what garments and fabric I can design. Digital print is a way of making unique and individual designs and transferring it to fabric. It is a quicker process compared to traditional techniques. You get rapid results and it also minimises textile waste. You can combined different techniques e.g. digital print and laser cut to enhance the print design. You can repeat your print and make a seamless pattern quick and easy with an irregular shape, you can also change the shape an size. This will help me stretch my creative skills as the limitations will be very few in producing digital design prints. Always using the shift key so your print pattern does not become distorted. Digital print is an expensive process but once up and running will quickly pay for its self. Print designs are not always bespoke, it’s a mass production so the product will be worth less value. Promise exclusivity can be done which will heighten the value of the product. People are still using on basic drawing skills to produce print patterns, (like me). It would help by employing someone for drawing and creativity this will keep designs unique and production can be faster. Unfortunately there are some problems that we would have no control over, e.g. If the machine was to break it would stop production. Also the technology outcome of the print, e.g. the colour transfer to the fabric. And the larger the print pattern the longer time to produce which could cause a back log within the production procedure. The specific techniques I used included; traditional drawing to create my digital print pattern, CAD skills on design specific software. I scanned my drawing into the computer, enhanced it using Photoshop and repeated my pattern and printed it onto transfer paper and then applied it to my piece of fabric using a heat press. If it hadn’t of been for the opportunity of taken the hand drawing and transferring it to a digital format I would not of been able to complete the work by hand in time. My final design stemmed from an original drawing of mine of a flower. My original drawing was refined on Photoshop by repeating the image and adjusting the background colour to lime green, this was after experimenting with several colours first. I chose lime green because the original drawing was black and white and needed to stand out more. I developed this design for my range plan by combining it with my laser cut design. These worked well together as they both different types of petals. Due to the transfer paper only being A4 and the heat press being small. If I was to create a larger print pattern, I would have to make sure each piece of transfer paper was lined up accurately and correctly. This is leaving a gap for error as it would be very difficult to get the print pattern correct and perfect. The way round this, is for it to be sent off and digitally printed on to the fabric.