Design Development Portfolio by Lauren Teasdale

Lauren Teasdale. TEA 10296341. BA (Hons) Active Sportswear. Product Design and Development.

Design Portfolio.

signĂ˝

Tennis est notre passion.

La Divine is a high performance fashion sportswear collection. Designed primarily for tennis and other racket sports, the range takes its main inspiration from Mlle. Suzanne Lenglen, the french tennis star famed for her on-court fashion choices and agressive style of play that revolutionised the game for all the women that followed her. The 1920â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the decade in which Lenglen was at her peak, influences the collectionsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; silhouettes with form-fitting dresses and skirts coupled with boxy jackets and hoodies. Drop-waists, knife pleats and wrap-over garments are a selection of features within the range. Style lines and panels take influence from the Art Deco movement, with sunburst designs a main feature in the collection. Terre battue, the playing surface at Roland Garros, the home of french tennis inspires the collections colour palette; a mix of black and tonal greys with a burst of burnt orange. The collection is mainly constructed using Schoeller and Eschler technical fabrics featuring properties such as breathability, water repellent and uv stop, and uses processes such as laser cutting and heat pressing. 3D printed zipper pulls and draw cord ends complete the 5 outfit range.

Suzanne Lenglen; glamorous, trendsetter, champion. La Divine.

Court Suzanne Lenglen Stade Roland Garros 2 Avenue Gordon Bennett 75016 Paris France

“Lenglen made it a habit to wear an above-the-knee white silk dress and brightly coloured sweater to each match. She would match her colourful sweater to her ‘Lenglen bandeau’, a headgear invention of her own that was created simply from wrapping silk chiffon around her bobbed hair. This wrap, paired with her short skirts and rolled stockings, gave Lenglen a sexy and athletic image previously unseen before in tennis or in any other women’s sports.” (L’Etoile Sport, 2013).

â&#x20AC;&#x153;When she was young, she studied dance - she studied ballet and people said she played tennis like a dancer. She walked around the court between points on her tip toes. She posed a certain way when she going to serve.â&#x20AC;? (L. Englemann, in G. Morely 2013.)

COLOUR SPREAD.

Pierre-Charles Bayle Tennis: Smash 2000

Paul Collins Cours sur le court 1991

Terre Battue/Beaten Earth. Playing surface topped with layer of crushed brick. Couche de terre battue rouge d’environ 2mm/2mm layer of red clay. Couche de calcaire (craon) de 7 à 10 cm/7-10cm layer of limstone. Couche de mâchefer de 10 à 15 cm/10-15cm slag layer. Couche de petits graviers d’environ 2 cm/2cm layer of pebbles. Couche de gros cailloux (infra-cailloux) de 40 à 60 cm avec drainage incorporé/ 40-60cm layer of coarse gravel with intergrated drainage.

Noir/Black.

Anthracite/Anthracite.

Gris Clair/Soft Grey.

Craie/Chalk.

Brique/Brick.

19-4203TCX

19-4006TCX

15-0000TCX

12-4302TCX

17-1353TCX

Consumer. 18-35 years. Lives life to the full. City Girl. Sport Lover. Classic Minimalist Style. Busy work schedule but makes time for tennis and other activities.

Silhouette.

Design Development.

Bodice Style Lines Development.

Elastic Experimentation.

Ventilation zones with garments aid in keeping the wearer cool and comfortable, and are imperative to sports apparel design.Many brands use simple mesh panels, however this collection is the premium high level range of the SignĂ˝ brand and a more innovative process has been used, laser cutting.

Laser cutting sample with Ardmel film. As the garments will be stretched during movement, ardmel film has been heat-pressed on the fabric before the ventilation holes were laser cut through to re-enforce the fabric. The film also provides an opportunity for branding, fitting in with the brands minimalist values.

A handful of laser cut ventilation holes on the side of a garment does not provide enough ventilation therefore engineereed knit zones have been incorporated into the designs. The process is not widely used commercially but is however, an on-trend technological innovation.

The process used is warp knitting, in particular Raschel, inwhich patterns of most complexaties can be knitted. Sunburst shapes are knitted within the fabric removing the need for small seams that would be within the design if incorporating mesh panels. The removal of these seams removes areas of weakness within the garments and makes the item lighter and more comfortable for the wearer.

Hoodie Style Lines and Hood Development.

Coat Cord Tunnel/Flare Development.

Ball BallPocket Pocket Development. Development.

Panels Development.

Protecting the body during the cool down period after a match is equally as important as it is during, to aid in the recovery process. Compression on muscles improves oxygenation and blood lactate removal, enhancing recovery and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;reducing the effects of delayed onset muscle soreness in the days following strenuous muscles.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Ausport, 2012.)

Circular warp kintting machines are used to create virtually seamless garments, making the items a closer fit on the body, ideal for compression based articles.

Fabric Innovations. Keeping in line with SignĂ˝â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethos, the On-Court (High Performance) range features high performance fabrics from companies such as Schoeller and LMA. Features within the materials aide the wearer during play whilst also keeping them comfortable, such as engineered ventilation zones, breathable and fast drying fabric. Due to the high quality of the fabric, the garment are therefore more expensive than the majority of collections available. Along with the fabric and trims used, processes such as laser cutting and 3D printing justify the high prices. From consumer research and common knowledge, this range will not appeal to the mass market and article numbers are therefore kept low in comparison to the supporting low and mid-level ranges within the SignĂ˝ brand.

#FSTWOBL. 4 Way Stretch - Ease of Movement. UV Stop - Protects athlete from sun rays on-court. Water Repellent - Keeps athlete dry through light showers.

#FSPOLBL. Waterproof - Keeps athlete dry through wet weather.

#FNEMEBL. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool. Cross-wise Stretch - Ease of Movement. Fast Drying - Keeps athlete comfortable. #FWREKAN. Anti-Odour - Keeps athlete fresh during play. Engineered Ventilation Zones Body specific zones keeps athlete fresh and cool.

#FPOMEBL. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool.

#FORCJAN. Anti-Odour - Keeps athlete fresh during play. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool.

#FFTLBGB. Contrast Colour Loopback.

#FSIKNAN. Anti-Static. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool. 4 Way Stretch - Ease of movement. UV Stop - Protects athlete from sun rays on-court. #FORCJBR. Anti-Odour - Keeps athlete fresh during play. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool.

#FPOMEBR. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool.

#FRIPSCH. Breathable - Keeps athlete cool. Waterproof - Keeps athlete dry through wet weather.

Logo.

Signý as a brand is a mix between sportswear and fashion and it is important for this to show within the companys’ identity, in particular the brand logo. Basic Shape.

Circle - symbolic meaning of wholeness and unity.

Philosophy of Yin and Yang. - Yin and Yang are opposites. - Interdependent; cannot live without each other. - Mutual consumption of Yin and Yang; when out of balance they affect each other. (Sacred Lotus, 2013).

The balance of sportswear and fashion is the core of the brand and this need to be symbolised within the logo.

Basic shape development.

Basic Yin and Yang inspired outline in soft grey colour which is less harsh than black.

Reflected Yin Yang shows an ‘S’ like shape within a circle.

Shape split into two higlights the balance of sportswear and fashion.

Filled shapes rather than outlines.

Final design with shapes closer together.

Typography. Minimalism runs throughout the Signý blueprint and this is extends to the brand typography.

signý signý

Adobe Caslon Pro. Charter.

Serif fonts add a more formal touch to the logo, the Signý brand is fresh and new.

signý signý signý signý Brand inspiration logos.

Avenir. Letter Gothic Std. Seravek. Skia.

signý paris

Final Logo.

Unlike most sportswear items, branding and graphics are kept to a minimum within the range to fit within the brands designs principles and give the collection a more high fashion feel.

As SignĂ˝ is a new start up brand, logos are predominantly placed on the front of most of the garments to maximise possible marketing opportunities. Some garments incorporate logos within technological process innovations to keep within the brands minimalist design ethos.

As various technical fabrics and processes are used within the range it is important to display this information alongside the logo and style coding information on the final product swing tags, not only as a guide, but also as a potential marketing tool.

signĂ˝

Basic swing tag template.

Seperate pages noting the different fabric technologies and processes used.

SignĂ˝ is a french brand, therefore information is displayed in french. However, the brand also has a market scope outside of France and all the swing tag inforamtion is also displayed in English and Spanish.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.

Aenean laoreet erat erat, in convallis erat feugiat et. Vivamus eget rutrum enim, ornare sagittis lectus.

Phasellus tempor erat ac lectus adipiscing, eu egestas felis fringilla. Integer sagittis imperdiet diam, fermentum posuere tellus sodales sit amet.

Duis mollis tristique tempus. Nulla facilisi. Nunc vehicula porttitor sem, sit amet eleifend quam interdum sit amet.

Sed aliquet placerat justo, ac bibendum turpis dapibus a. 4 voies extensible tissu Schoeller hydrofuge.

Aenean nisl ligula, interdum eu posuere in, convallis sit amet velit.

4-way stretch, water repellent Schoeller fabric.

Etiam laoreet ullamcorper orci a tincidunt.

Elástico en 4 direcciones tejido Schoeller repelente al agua.

Ventilation de coupé au laser. Laser cut ventilation. Ventilación corte láser.

Seperate pages - unlimited amount of space for information. Duis mollis tristique tempus. Nulla facilisi. Nunc vehicula porttitor sem, sit amet eleifend quam interdum sit amet.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Aenean laoreet erat erat, in convallis erat feugiat et. Vivamus eget rutrum enim, ornare sagittis lectus.

Folded card tag - limited to amount of information can display.

Ingénierie zones de ventilation en tricot.

Phasellus tempor erat ac lectus adipiscing, eu egestas felis fringilla. Integer sagittis imperdiet diam, fermentum posuere tellus sodales sit amet.

Duis mollis tristique tempus. Nulla facilisi. Nunc vehicula porttitor sem, sit amet eleifend quam interdum sit amet.

Engineered knit ventilation zones.

Sed aliquet placerat justo, ac bibendum turpis dapibus a.

Zonas de ventilación de punto ingenierio.

Aenean nisl ligula, interdum eu posuere in, convallis sit amet velit. Etiam laoreet ullamcorper orci a tincidunt.

signý

Final design - Seperate pages kept together in folded card booklet. Cut out shape and slot feature keeps pages neatly together. Divider pages for a quick overiew of fabrics and technologies.

Les bénéfices de cette vente vont vers le tennis Signy dans les initiatives communautaires. Profits from this purchase go towards Signý’s tennis in the community inniatives. Los beneficios de esta compra van hacia el tenis de Signý en las iniciativas de la comunidad.

Innovation in the collection continues through to the trims and other components used within the range. Keeping up with current technology, zipper pulls and draw cord tips have been made using 3D printing. This process allows items of any design to be made adding uniqueness to the garments once completed.

Basic Zipper Pull.

Zipper Pull with headphone wire stay place.

Draw Cord Tip.

Final Collection. The final range consists of 17 garments in total, including sports bra, performance dresses and waterproof jackets which can be mixed and matched to create 5 principal outfits.

Warm-up/

On-Court/

Off-Court/

On-Court/

Warm-up/

Training.

Performance.

Lifestyle.

Performance.

Training.

Final Prototypes. Outfit 1 - Warm-Up. Coupe Lined Jacket. Advantage Snood Hoodie. Match Point Ball Pocket Tights.

Outfit 2 - On-Court. La Divine Performance Dress. Eiffel Sports Bra. Match Point Ball Pocket Shorts.

Marketing and Promotion. The main form of promotion of the collection is through a lookbook showcasing the range in the settings they are designed for, on the tennis courts, rather than a posed shoot.

As a small start-up brand launching its first collection, SignĂ˝ canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compete with the likes of brands such as Adidas and Nike in terms of athlete endorsement and therefore the images used in the lookbook focus purely on the garments in action and their high quality of detail. Keeping with the brands minimalist ethos, the layout of the lookbook is very clean with little text, only important details including brand name, season, website and tagline are featured. The shoot took place at The Warren Clay Court Tennis Club to reference the clay court inspiration and photographs featured in the lookbook are a mixture of full colour higlighting the orange clay courts and black and white images reflecting the tonal colour palette with burnt orange accents. Copies of the lookbook will be sent to prospetive buyers and clients and also be available at concession stands in stores such as Printemps and Colette.

Lookbook Spread.

Main image is more fashion-focused with model wearing garment from collection. Althoug not necessarilly the full garment in the shot, it gives a hint of the collection, enticing people to visit the website for more.

Clay court close-up image references collection inspiration and colour palette within range.

Slight reference to the tennis side of brand with props in shot; vintage racket and tennsi balls.

Advert Inspiration.

Victory in style.

signý signy.com

Adverts. In contrast to the lookbook which portrays the tennis side of the brand, the main adverts for publications primarily for print, are more fashion focused. They are also available in A5 heavy paper format at concession stands alongside the collection lookbook.

Minimalist format follows through from lookbook with the only text featured in the advert being the brand name, website and tagline, ‘Victory in style’. ‘Victory in style’ tagline is not as motivational and part of the emotional advertising propsosed previously, however, this line fits better in the context of this advert which is more fashion focused.

Victory in style.

signĂ˝ signy.com

Minimalist brand ethos conveyed through clean layout and graphics.

Clear navigation - Potential customers could leave the site if the site navigation is confusing.

Images from lookbook and adverts of current collections.

Brand Tagline.

Website available in both French and English with other languages to be added once the brand expands to cater for the international appeal of the company.

Links to brand profiles on various social media sites.

Retail. As a start-up brand, it is not cost-effective for SignĂ˝ to have a stand-alone store, instead the collections are mainly retailed via the brands website, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;signy.comâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and concession stands in stores such as Printemps and Colette. Therefore, the design of the website needs to perfectly reflect the brand in a professional manner.

Social Media. Free social media sites such as Twitter and Facebook are perfect for start-up companies to connect to their intended consumer market. This essentially leads to free promotion as posts by the brand can be easily shared in one-click by their followers, increasing the potential consumer scope hugely. SignĂ˝â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accounts on these sites detail new releases and press, linking the main brand website within the post maximising the potential site traffic and sales. Similar to the main website, each post is in both French and English.

‘Even in tennis you have to play within the rules, inside the lines. On the other hand it’s nice to break them’ (Felipe Oliveira Baptista, 2013).

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