Lauren Teasdale. TEA 10296341. BA (Hons) Active Sportswear. Product Design and Development.
Technical Portfolio.
signĂ˝
Tennis est notre passion.
1.
Toile Development and Samplng.
Toile One. Basic Dress - Stretch dress pattern altered to add tapered flared hem.
The Fit; Slightly big around body, not skin tight as need for compression elements of the dress. Skirt slightly longer than desired, but tapered shape is very flattering to body. To Do; Take in excess fabric on bodice, shaping into style lines and removing side seams in the process. Whilst also being careful not to take any fabric away from the skirt. Shorten hem but keep the shape/curve already cut.
La Divine Performance Dress.
Lines showing excess fabric pinned in to create new style lines and remove side seams.
Dress Detail Development.
Initial ideas of racer front neck line and placement of elastic at CB.
Paper pleats illustrating drop waist. Box pleat at CF and knife pleats corrolating outwards.
Toile Two. The Fit; Bodice toile demonstrating re-worked style lines, contouring body more than the previous toile which was more linear. New lines still have a downward linear direction which still creates a streamlined effect against the body. Lines fit with the sunburst art deco graphic inspiration within the collection. No side seam, 4 panels in total - front, two sides and back.
To do; Make and attach pleated skirt to bodice and see how the ripples at the side seam react.
Same pattern but in fabric similar to the actual fabric. Ripples have appeared at the side panels but disappear when the fabric is pulled down, therefore the weight of a pleated skirt may pull the bodice flat.
Toile Three. First full panel and pleat toile.
The Fit; Weight of the skirt pulls side panel flat and ripples disappear. Overall fit of the bodice is a tight fit, close to the body but not too difficult to get on body. Although skirt is not tapered, length is as imagined. Depth at CF and CB will be kept and tapered up towards sides.
Panels from body match up with box pleats at CF and CB of skirt panel.
To Do; Taper hem - important to get shape right, flattering the body. Work out neckline and elastic back feature.
Toile Four. Half toile neckline and elastic development. The Fit; More stylised racer front as indicated in pen on previous toile. On the stand it looks abit high, however as it is what could be described as a halter neck and therefore no supporting straps, the neckline needs to cover and support the bust. Back elastic same width as neckline straps leading into a ‘tri-back’ detail. All the stress will be placed on the join of the elastic rather than points on the fabric. On the stand, the elastic is already pulling the back of the toile up in comparision to its natural position, however rather than change both the elastic and front neckline it makes more sense to test the garments in a real life scenario, playing tennis before making any tweeks as it could end up becoming to loose/slack.
To Do; Make full toile with panels, skirt and neckline elastic detail.
Toile Five. Full toile with stylised neckline, elastic back and tapered hemline. The Fit; All of the developed aspects so far collated in one piece and ready for test on the coat. Pieces will be laser cut for final/actual so neckline and pleated hem have been left raw but finished with stretch seam tape. This has added a little bit weight and structure to the fabric and could help keep the pleats in place over time/during play. 4 thread overlocker and lockstitch used for main body and elastic respectively. To Do; Test Garment on court.
Toile One/ Stand Work. Initial toile to get elastic placement right on the stand.
Eiffel Sports Bra.
The Fit; Using exact same pattern of the dress but only the front and side panels and shortened to cover and provide support for the bust. Back panel is removed as the elastic covers this whole section. Crossover effect means 4 pressure points on the main body which could cause probelms, however as stated with the previous dress toile, tests need to be done on court before any major changes are made. The gaps supposed to be shown at the first crossovers are not that well defined so need to adjust that before going into the next toile. To Do; Adjust elastic at first crossovers, bring the neckline straps/elastic seam past the shoulder scene to create a more definied gap at the crossovers. Make full toile.
Toile Two. Fully lined toile. Single knit outer with cotton jersey and power mesh lining. Cotton jersey panel at front for comfort and power mesh at sides and neck for ventilation. Overlocked Fabric Samples. The Fit; The stylised racer front neckline looks quite smart, basic but a different twist on a racer front makes it more stand-out. Pleased with the overall look and effect the elastic makes, once again fits with the simple but not basic manifesto. 4 points where elastic meet with main body have caused abit of gapping due to the stretch. Once again, this could provide ample support within the garment so nothing will be altered until after test of the bra. Seam where cotton jersey adn power mesh lining meet creates abit of a ‘bobble’ at the outer and lining seam which needs to be changed. Elastic at hem attached using coverstitch providing stretch and the stitch is usually used in sportswear. To Do; Move the lining seam where the cotton jersey and power mesh meet away from the corner within the neckline.
Toile Two.
Framilon 1.8cm GroĂ&#x; Overlocked onto Grain Stretch Fabric Elastic Sample. Sample.
The Fit; Lining seam moved making the outer and lining much easier to sew and this shows with a neater seam. Did make a mistake in the elastic feature but down to personal error, nothing to do with patternsand such and therefore there is not change to be made in the next toile. To Do; Rather than make a third toile, be more beneficial to test the last two toiles as it it the elastic that needs to be checked before anything can be changed.
Match Point Ball Pocket Shorts.
Toile One. First basic toile of shorts. The Fit; Basic leggings pattern with leg length altered sewn up to detremine size/depth of front and back. Line shows where the shorts should lie - 7.5cm from waist. To Do; Make new toile with ammendend waist depth.
Toile Two. Gusset Developments.
Rectangular shape gusset. The Fit; Quite big and obvious when worn. Not to comfortable either when worn either. The size dosen’t fit within the minimalist theme either. To Do; Make gusset smaller and try other shapes.
Toile Three.
Diamond shape gusset.
The Fit; Mistake during pattern alterations and the shape is still quite big and visible. Looks unusual too and once again does not fit with the minimalist style of the range. To Do; Make gusset smaller and try other shapes.
Toile Four. Panel Development.
Triangle shape gusset. The Fit; Smaller gusset that cannot be seen. Perfect for minimalist style and favourite of gussets tried so far. Contouring panels main object of this toile, but trouble with the overlocker caused a few problems and the panels do not match up correctly. Although the panels are not correct, the front lines contouring the thighs look good and will continue with this pattern in the next toile. The back view is not quite as good. Looks too much like a bikini line when it is supposed to contour and highlight the glutes. To Do; Alter back panel lines.
Toile Five. Ball Pocket Developments.
The Fit; Half toile with basic pocket shape. Tucks in pocket to create more space for ball without making pocket bigger. However as the tucks are that small, they look more like mistakes rather than planned. To Do; Try a different shape which has adequate space for ball whilst keeping in place.
Toile Six Left Side.
The Fit; Ball fits perfectly but there is no tapering towards the mouth of the pocket to keep teh ball firmly in place. To Do; Won’t risk using a shape like this for the ball pocket bag as it is such an important part of the garment and in play if it fails could result in a penalty.
Toile Six Right Side.
The Fit; Pockets placed on an angle, taking into consideration the body and movements in tennis. Although pocket mouth is tapered, it is quite small and difficult to get the ball back out in a hurry. To Do; Change mouth width so easy access to the ball, but keep pocket shape similar.
Toile Seven Left Side.
The Fit; Similar shape to the previous toile with bigger mouth. Perfect to get the ball in and out however the overall width is alot bigger and when the ball is in the pocket there is still space for the ball to move around which needs to be changed. Pocket placement is too close to the hem of the shorts, ideally should be placed at least 1cm from hem. To Do; Shape perfect and will carry on to next toile, but smaller overall width and placed higher up on shorts as in previous toiles.
Toile Seven Right Side.
The Fit; Possibly ‘the’ pocket. Smaller width but similar shape to last experiement. All of the measurement are around the same, corresponding with the ball shape. To Do; Next step to test the pocket in action to make sure can take it further into production.
Toile Eight. Panel Development.
The Fit; Front panels same as before and back panels changed to match front and contour glutes. Perfectly contour body and will therefore keep these pieces. Elastic waistband coverstitched in place. Looks nice when neatly applied but if stitching slightly off can make the whole garment look poor. Left side panel seams at front and back have line of edge stitching to re-inforce seam due to the stress placed on these panels with the pocket use. Pocket only on left side same shape as previous toile but different application and finishing. Twin needling matches with the coverstitch on the waistband, however, it looks quite messy and also takes space away for the ball, meaning the pocket would have to be bigger. If one stitch is out of place in the twin needling, the whole of the stitching will look wrong so think might be better to not use twin-needling. The actual pockets will be laser cut and therefore in the toile process the edges have been left raw. Pockets are finished with the smallest binding available, 3mm. Binding is durable which works perfect with the use of the pockets. Pockets tacked at each end of the binding to secure in place, and takes the majority of stress caused by pocket use. From testing in the studio, the bar tack does the job however the garment needs to be checked when in action during play before taking through to production. To Do; Try different application methods in attaching the pocket.
3mm Binding Stretch Sample.
Toile Nine.
The Fit; Pocket overlocked before edge stitched in place. Matches with coverstitch but once again any stray stitch and thread makes the garment look poorly made. Edge stitch is a stretch stitch providing a more secure stitch, especially with the pressure the stitching will be under. During attaching the pocket, need to be careful to catch all of pocket with in the line of stitching but it is favourite look aesthectically so far. Hem of shorts finished with seam tape, hand cut in toile but will be laser cut in actual garment. Tape strengthens add support to the fabric, especially around the area where the pocket binding is bar tacked in place. All side panel seams re-enforced. To Do; Test shorts in play to note fit and performance.
Garment Test.
Tanner St, Bermondsey, SE1. 21st February 2014.
La Divine Performance Dress. The Fit; Good curve on the skirt with ball pockets visible. When balls in short pockets, the skirt sits just above so dosen’t look odd. Shape also flatters the body. Bodice fits tightly too body, enough stretch for free movement of the body. Fabric abit harsh on the skin, but this is toile fabric and not the actual material which is softer. Elastic ‘tri-back’ feature feels abit ‘scratchy’ on skin, could be to do with the elastic used or the layering and stitching where the elastic is joined. Quite pleased with the overall aesthetic. To Do; Develop new back elastic feature.
Match Point Ball Pocket Shorts. The Fit; Body fit is fine but problem with the ball pocket. Pocket holds the ball but bar tack securing the pocket in place came undone after the ball was placed in. To Do; Made pocket mouth slightly wider and alter main width to maintain same pocket shape.
Eiffel Sports Bra. The Fit; too big depth-wise on the body, more like a crop top than bra. Need to be much shorter to provide support around bust. Neckline is slightly bigger than the dress and visible when worn underneath. Needs to be smaller so can be hidden under the dress. Elastic back feature has nice effect on body although the elastic used in the toile is quite harsh against the skin however, GroĂ&#x; grain will be used in actual garements which is softer on the skin. Pull of elastic at the back creates gaps. Naturally this will happen due to the pull of the 4 stress points, however could add abit more support with stretch interlining. To Do; Shorten depth of bra. Make neckline thinner to fit underneath dress. Add elastic to strengthen fabric attached to elastic back feature.
Dress Toile Six.
Adjustable elastic detail.
The Fit; Developed back elastic feature with adjustable loop feature. To Do; Pleased with overall fit and developed back elastic to move on to production/final.
1.8cm GroĂ&#x; Grain Elastic Sample.
Bar Tacked Elastic Sample.
Seam Tape Finishing Sample.
Innovation Details Development. Laser Cut Ventilation Holes.
Laser Cut Logos with Ventilation Holes Laser Cut Through Sample.
The Fit; 11m logos (Ardmel adhesive film laser cut) pressed onto side panels and to be laser cut through to create ventilation holes. Machine not lined up properly so hole through fabric not as accurate but conveys how it would eventually be. Due to the amount of time needed to set up the laser cut machine and get the right settings right for the laser cutting through the fabric it is not effective time-wise to do this for just 1 prototype, but it would be in the actual manufacturing.
Ventilation Back Panel Development. The Fit; In the actual garment, back piece would be engineered ventilation zone knit and in the toiles and prototypes this is not possible due to time and facilities. Engraving/Rastling, a process created with laser cutting machine burns layers of the fabric away leaving a lighter layer behind. Mistakes in the conversion of the paper pattern to a computer file caused the design around a half of the size it would be. The design on the fabric is quite faint and looks more like a dirty mark on the fabric than a design supposed to be on the panel. Using panels more effective at showing how the actual dress would look, although extra seams add abit more overall weight to the garment. To Do; Pleased with overall fit and developed back elastic to move on to production/final. Use panels to demonstrate engineered knit back panel.
Bra Toile Three.
Bar Tack Elastic Stretch Sample. The Fit; Shorter body length lies just under bust providing better support. Neckline slightly smaller and thinner straps to sit under dress when worn and not be visible. Elastic perfect as was before test but sewn/layered right. Stretch interlining has add more structure to side panels where elastic is attached. Although still abit pull, nowhere near what it was before. To Do; Bra ready to take to final production.
Shorts Toile Ten.
The Fit; Foldover elastic used as pocket finishing rather than binding. Provides better stretch at pocket mouth and wider area (1cm) for bar tack to secure in place which shouldn’t come away like pocket in test of shorts. Elastic waistband simply overlocked in place instead of coverstitch. Looks much neater and fits with the minimalist style within the range. Due to the overlocked waistband, the stitching added to the seam panels for re-enforcement will be removed as won’t fit with the clean look. If any stitch goes slightly out of line it is easily noticeable and would look poorly made. If this was then unpicked, holes would be left which is not a good look for a garment within a high performance high fashion collection. To Do; Ready for final/production.
6cm GroĂ&#x; Grain Elastic Sample.
Foldover Elastic Pocket Finishing Sample.
Toile One.
Advantage Laced Hoodie.
The Fit; Box fit in contrast to the form-fitting dress, shorts and bra. Drop shoulders sit not too low and not to high over upper arms. Kimino full length sleeves with quite alot of fabric around underarm/bust area. Snood hood which is quite small around the neckline. Able to get on and off but a squeeze and effects the drape of the hood when worn down as a snood. Body length fine but area around bust and underarm with excess fabric needs to be decreased. To Do; Shorten sleeves but do not change width of sleeve. Drop neck at front and back, also widen neckline too. Shorten sleeve head width to remove excess fabric .
Toile Two.
The Fit; Sleeves length perfect with 1.5cm lockstitched hem. Excess fabric removed leaving just the right amount of fabric for drape. Neckline both widened and deepened for hood. Much better drape on hood but the head is slightly pointed. First try of laced feature at CF of snood/hood. Very happy with look and how to make but the inside is left raw with visible overlocking and lace on show. For a high priced garment this needs to be covered, possibly with a cotton jersey panel. Panels mimicking those found in the dress drawn on front and back, including marks for proposed invisbile zip opening for pocket. To Do; Smooth hood head out, better curve around head. Cover tunnel feature within hood with cotton jersey panel. Add pocket feature. Add panels to front and back.
Toile Three. The Fit; Zip inserted, fits perfect with minimalist style as virtually unseen within style lines. Good size (18cm) can get hand in and out easily without being too big. Panels worked out well on first try, don’t need to be body contouring, just based on dress lines. Cotton jersey panel size of whole tunnel feature conceals seams and lace, but does add abit of extra weight. This does benefit the hood, weighing the drape of the snood hood when worn down. Cord feature works as imagined. Elastic waistband overlocked in place like bra and shorts, keeping small details runnign throughout the collection. To Do; Ready for final/production.
Laced Panel Feature Sample with Different Stitching Samples.
Toile flat showing boxy fit of hoodie.
Toile One.
Match Point Ball Pocket Tights.
The Fit; Panels and gusset the same as the shorts style. Too much seam allowance taken off during the construction and therefore dosen’t fit the stand or on a model. As well as the overall fit not being right, there were other difficulties during the construction. Main problem being the calf panels inwhich there are 6 corners to be sewn in stretch fabric.3 panels need to be sewn to create sunburst panel which would be then sewn into area of main fabric. Corners very difficult to sew and resulted in them not being acceptable. One side unpicked (first panels black fabric) and changed to heavier fabric which made the panels abit neater. Valuables welt style pocket on right back panel. Need more practice sewing together as tucks at corners on toile. Nothing wrong with the pattern, just lack of practice in making welt pockets. To Do; Re-do toile exactly the same with heavier fabric for calf panels.
Toile Two. The Fit; Fits well on stand compared to first toile. Welt style pocket still have tucks at corners. Panels alot better but still not perfect crisp corners. Could be easier to add another panel to make overall panel feature easier to sew.Although it changes design it would be better for the prototype aesthetcially - the actual garment wouldn’t have the sunburst feature panels as an enginered knit would be used. Panels also stretch out of shape when worn over calf, distorting intended look. To Do; Add new panel up back of leg to make calf panel feature easier to show. Alter base of the calf panels pattern taking into consideration the stretch of the fabric.
Toile Three. The Fit; Red lines demonstrate where new panels are. Happy with look and fit of the panels which stretch the the correct shape now. Stretch seam tape finishes the hem which will be laser cut in the actual garment and also helps the panels stay in shape over the calf although could be abit restrictive for some wearers with more muscular calves. Pocket much better after practice, no tucks at corners. This pocket is finished with stretch seam taping to hide seams inside tights. However, once on the stand the tape is quite thick and obvious so better to stick with 4 thread overlocked seams. The stretch needed to fit over the body could be restricted by the tape or alternatively cause the tape to rip away from the fabric. To Do; Ready for final/production and finish pocket with over locked seams.
Coupe Lined Jacket. Toile One.
The Fit; Too small body-wise, in particular across the hips, leaving no space for movement if worn during play. Other features are fine, pockets and style lines as I’d imagined, sleeves fit fine, length is just right along with the flare panel, although the depth could be deepened whilst still maintaining the current length. Cord tunnel could be encased between outer shell and lining. To Do; Add extra to main body (total of 8cm). Alter depth of flare panel but maintain overall length of jacket.
Toile Two. Basic toile to get overall fit correct therefore no details like in first toile.
The Fit; Fits around body perfectly with a little space for movement. Flare better length in comparison with body length. Hood is quite long/tall, would be alright for snood type hood but the hood on this garment will have a cord tunnel so it can be adjusted to fit around the face and needs a closer fit. To Do; Full toile with adjusted body. Shorten height of hood.
Toile Three. Full toile in ripstop fabric with lining.
The Fit; Zip used and facing added to almost near fabric fully lined toile. Hood is smaller and sits better on head and in bag, although bag which it is folded into is quite small in comparision to the neck and body and would be better if made slightly deeper (2-3cm). Regular zip used for hood bag, but in final, an invisible zip will be used keeping the minimalistic touches within the collection. Seams taped for first time and looks un-neat due to uneven application. Yellow outer fabric and black seam tape also play a part. Taped seams would be in the actual garments adding a waterproof element to the seams inwhich the machinist will be highly trained and have the use of a roller heat press. Cord inbetween ripstop shell and lining concealed perfectly. Twin-needling around pockets and other features of coat which dosen’t really fit with rest of collection, edge stitching better suited to jacket. Zip and front guard too long, better to finish at end of body adn beginning of flare panel. Flare panel is off-grain towards each side and as zip currently is stitched to the panel it curves and curls. Bagging out the flare would remove the need for edge-stitching rather than twin-needling making the flare lie better. Lining fine, allow an extra panel added at neck due to a mistake in cutting the fabric. This will not be in the real garment. To Do; Ready for final/production. Change elements as making final. Bag out flare bag. Shorter zip and front guard, ending at end of body/beginning of flare. No twin-needling, instead use edge-stitching.
French Seam Samples Ripstop and Mesh Lining.
Ardmel Seam Tape Ripstop Sample.
Laser Cut Ardmel Film Logos on Ripstop Sample.
Fabric and Trim Sheets.
Machinery Sheet.
Graphics Specification Sheet.
Design Specification Sheets.
Critical Path. This is the critical path followed during the duration of the project. Days were also planned individually in more detail, but were subject to change throughout the terms, taking into consideration time management, illness and other setbacks.
Formatting.
February.
Design Development. Design Selection.
Toile Experiementation and Development. Laser Cutting and Engraving Experimentation.
Fabric Sourcing.
Computer Work and Technical Drawings.
Experimentation, Toile Development and Manufacturing.
Inspiration, Design and Development.
January.
Basic Garment Technical Drawings.
Work within Sketchbook.
March.
April.
Bring all inspiration, designs and development together.
Toiles complete and ready for final garments.
Scan patterns into Gerber and prepare patterns for laser cutting.
Branding, Innovation pages etc.
Laser cut pattern pieces ready for construction.
Detailed Technical Drawings.
Technical Portfolio Toile Development Evaluation.
Photoshoots white background and clay courts.
Marketing and PromotionLookbook.
Final Garments Manufacturing.
Design Specification Sheets.
Create zipper pulls and cord ends in Rhino and send to factory for print.
Look into Portfolio Presentation.
May.
Fabric and Trims Sheets.
Technical Folder for Coat.
Portfolio Presentation. Reference all of work.
Print work and work on overall presentation.
Image Bibliography. (Images from Machinery Page). 1. 3D Printer. (2013) [Online Image]. Available at: <http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/05/robert-farago/fancy-a-titanium-defcad-liberator/> [Accessed 10 May 2014]. 2. Santoni Warp Knit Machine. (2014) [Online Image]. Available at: <https://www.google.co.uk/search?sa=G&tbm=isch&tbs=simg:CAQSYxphCxCo1NgEGgAMCxCwjKcIGjwKOggCEhSTHNcQnRzsGuUaoSTnGs0k6xqOHBogAUV12PyENFGvq2UcBnkPZtp1-dXNLND5w0y00V7RQpcMCxCOrv4IGgoKCAgBEgTzvZjGDA&ei=xPZ1U5OMAsbsOoSwgJAI&ved=0CCcQwg4oAA&biw=1310&bih=718#facrc=_&imgrc=g4La7UIF3MrGoM%253A%3BRpxLIDo-CEA-wM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.ytimg. com%252Fvi%252F0-ocEt_j9jY%252F0.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Farticle.wn.com%252Fview%252F2014%252F01%252F14%252FGmart_International_Foods_may_be_coming_to_Santonis_location%252F%3B480%3B360> [Accessed 10 May 2014].