Quality Analysis of Women's Jeans by Laura Schneider

Quality Analysis of Women's Jeans National Brands vs. Private Labels at Macy’s, Target, Kohl’s & Buckle

IU Student R204 APPAREL MANUFACTURING & QUALITY ANALYSIS, SECTION #13828 April 25, 2011

TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………..……………………….…………….………………………3 Evaluation Checklist………………………………………………………….…..………….……………………………4

DEPARTMENT STORE MACY’S – LEVI’S vs. AMERICAN RAG…………………………………………….…………………………….6 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #1………………….………….………………..10

DISCOUNT / MASS RETAILERS TARGET – CONVERSE ONE STAR vs. MOSSIMO…………………………….……………………………68 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #2……………….………………………………72 KOHL’S – LEE vs. LC LAUREN CONRAD……………………………………….………………………………97 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #3……………….……………….……………100

SPECIALTY STORE BUCKLE – DREAM DIVA vs. BKE……………………………………………….……………………..………119 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #4……….……………….……………………123

CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………….……………………....……………………………144

APPENDIX GRAPHS Total Scores By Store & Brand…………………………………………………………………………146 National Brand vs. Private Label Bar Graph…………………………………..………………..147 National Brand vs. Private Label Line Graph……………………………..…………………….148

INTERVIEWS MACY’S – ALLISON MILLER…………………………………………………….……………………….149 TARGET – SHYAI LAUBSCHER……………………………………………………..……………………150 KOHL’S – LINDSAY BARON……………………………………………………………………………….152 BUCKLE – ARIELLE BROWN………………………………………………………………………………155 SURVEY RESULTS……………………………………………….………..………..…………….…………………157

BIBLIOGRAPHY……………………………………….……………………………………………………..…………………..164

NATIONAL BRANDS vs. PRIVATE LABELS OF WOMEN’S JEANS INTRODUCTION Our quality analysis of women’s jeans included 8 brands selected from 4 stores located in Bloomington, Indiana. We visited Macy’s, Target, Kohl’s and Buckle. A national brand and private brand were selected from each retailer. The national brands we inspected were Levi’s, Converse One Star, Lee and Dream Diva. We chose American Rag, Mossimo, LC Lauren Conrad and BKE as the private brands to evaluate in comparison. This gave us a good representation of the options that are currently available for women’s jeans at department and specialty stores, as well as discount / mass retailers. All 8 pairs of women’s jeans were graded on the same 30 content categories to assess value by observing the relationships between quality and price. The grading scale we used was 1 – 5, with 5 being ideal. The maximum score would be a perfect 150. Let’s take a closer look!

Evaluation Checklist WOMEN’S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

MACY’S NAT PRIV LEVI’S

TARGET NAT

PRIV

AMERICAN CONVERSE MOSSIMO RAG ONE STAR

KOHL’S BUCKLE NAT PRIV NAT PRIV LC DREAM LEE LAUREN BKE DIVA CONRAD

4 5 2

5 4 1

3 3 4

5 5 3

4 5 4

4 3 4

5 5 3

WOMEN’S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 23 24

Tags Care Label Crocking 25 Test Advertised 26 Features Brand 27 Presence Noticeable 28 Flaws 29 Yoke Fading / 30 Coloring TOTAL SCORE TOTAL % AVERAGE GRADE OVERALL RANK

MACY’S NAT PRIV LEVI’S

TARGET NAT

PRIV

AMERICAN CONVERSE MOSSIMO RAG ONE STAR

KOHL’S BUCKLE NAT PRIV NAT PRIV LC DREAM LEE LAUREN BKE DIVA CONRAD 4 3 5 4 3 4 3 2

2 4

3 3

3 4

83 55.3%

92 61.3%

104 69.3%

110 73.3%

113 75.3%

112 74.7%

116 77.3%

2.8

3.1

3.5

3.7

3.8

3.7

3.9

**NAT = NATIONAL BRAND & PRIV = PRIVATE LABEL

DEPARTMENT STORE MACY’S – LEVI’S vs. AMERICAN RAG

**REPLACE W/ MACY’S PAGE FILE!!!**

MACY’S – TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………..……………………….…………….………………………9 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #1………………….…………………………….…………10 CONTENT CATEGORIES FOR GRADING 1. Fiber Content……………………………………………………………………………………………………11 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….12 2. Weight of Fabric……………………………………………………………………….………………………13 3. Stitch Length…………………………………………………………………………………………………….14 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….15 4. Stitch Strength………………………………..………………………………………………………………..16 5. Stitch Type………………………………………………………………………………………………………..18 6. Seam Finish………………………………………………………………………………………………………20 7. Price Point………………………………………………..………………………………………………………22 8. Purchase Price………………………………………………………………………………………………….23 9. Button Closure……………………..…………………………………………………………………………..24 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….26 10. Zipper Type……………………………………………………………………………………………….………27 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….29 11. Zipper Strength………………………………..……………………………………………………………….30 12. Hems………………………………………..………………………………………………………………………32 13. Pocket Types…………………………………………………………………………………………………….34 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….35 14. Pocket Strength……………………………………………….……………………………………………….36 15. Pocket Sizes…………………………….………………………………………………………………………..38 16. Pocket Lining…………………………….………………………………………………………………………40 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….41 17. Rivets………………………………………………….…………………………………………………………….42 18. Bar Tacks……………………………………………………..……………………………………………………43 19. Belt Loops…………………………………………………………………………………………………………45 20. Thread Color…………………………………………….………………………………………………………47 a. Photograph.…………………………………..………………………………………………….48 21. Thread Defects………………………………………………….………………………………………………49 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….50 22. Decorative Features………………………………………….………………………………………………51 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….52 23. Tags………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….53 24. Care Label……………………………………………….………………………………………………………..55 25. Crocking Test………………………………………….…………………………………………………………56

26. Advertised Features………………………………………………………………………………………….57 27. Brand Presence…………………………………………………………………………………………………60 28. Noticeable Flaws………………………………………………………………………………………………62 29. Yoke..……………………..…………………………………………………………………………………………63 30. Fading / Coloring…………………………………………………………………………..………………….65 CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………….…………………...…………………………………66

MACY’S – LEVI’S vs. AMERICAN RAG INTRODUCTION Macy’s is a department store that carries many different items and has many different departments. Within the Junior’s department, a young girl has a choice between many different brands of jeans to buy. Two of these brands include Levi’s, a national brand that can be found in other stores, and American Rag, Macy’s private brand of jeans that can only be found at their stores. These two pairs of jeans may look similar at first glance, but with further analysis, one can notice the differences in production between them. The jeans that we are analyzing are both dark wash boot cut. The American Rag jeans are standard low rise and the Levi’s state that they are ultra low rise. These two pairs of jeans have been inspected on the basis of 30 different categories and graded with a score between 1 and 5 to determine their overall rating when compared to other national and private brand jeans.

National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #1 WOMEN’S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Fiber Content Weight of Fabric Stitch Length Stitch Strength Stitch Type Seam Finish Price Point Purchase Price Button Closure Zipper Type Zipper Strength Hems Pocket Types Pocket Strength Pocket Sizes Pocket Lining Rivets Bar Tacks Belt Loops Thread Color Thread Defects Decorative Features Tags Care Label Crocking Test Advertised Features Brand Presence Noticeable Flaws Yoke Fading / Coloring TOTAL SCORE TOTAL % AVERAGE GRADE RANK WITHIN STORE

MACY’S NATIONAL PRIVATE LEVI’S AMERICAN RAG 5 2 2 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 2 3 3 4 3 4 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 3 5 5 4 4 3 2 3 2 4 5 5 4 2 1 4 3 1 4 3 4 2 3 4 3 2 1 2 3 4 2 2 3 3 5 3 4 83/150 92/150 55.3% 61.3% 2.8 3.1 2 1

**American Rag (private label) scored 9 points higher than Levi’s (national brand).

FIBER CONTENT Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 5 This pair of jeans has a fabric content of 99% cotton and 1% elastane. This information can be found on the label inside of the waistline of the garment. This garment is primarily made from a natural cellulosic fiber. Natural fibers are generally more expensive than manufactured fibers and they are known for their comfort and durability. However, cotton is known to be a fabric that shrinks after being washed so if this pair of jeans was not pre-washed, they may fit differently after the first washing. Elastane, also known as Spandex, is a synthetic fiber produced from petroleum. Elastane is known for its ability to stretch. This provides the garment some stretch for the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comfort and usability. This garment received a 5 for its fabric content because of the high level of natural fibers. This increases the quality and price of a garment.

American Rag = 2 The fabric content within this pair of jeans is 80% cotton, 18% polyester, and 2% spandex. Even though this pair of jeans contains a higher percent in spandex which could create more comfort for the wearer of the jeans, the percent of natural fibers used in this garment is significantly lower than what is used in the national brand. This cuts the cost of the garment significantly. Also, the percent of polyester used in this garment is particularly high for denim. This lowers the quality of the overall look and feel of the jeans and could cause discomfort for the wearer. This garment received a score of 2 for its fiber content because of the lack of quality in the fiber blends that were used.

WEIGHT OF FABRIC Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 The weight of the fabric in this pair of jeans is less than the weight of the private brand jeans. This lower weight and thickness could result in a shorter life span for this garment. Although this fabric may not get as stiff after washing, it will lose its shape more easily and may possibly be worn out faster than the jeans with the heavier fabric. The weight of this pair of jeans was a little lighter than the average jean and so it received a score of 2 for this category.

American Rag = 3 The weight of this fabric is heavier than the weight of the Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pair of jeans. This extra weight and thickness allows the garment to be worn for a longer period of time without wearing out. Although the weight might cause discomfort for the wearer after washing the jeans, the jeans will hold up better. These jeans have the average weight that a pair of jeans should so it received a score of 3 for the weight of fabric category.

STITCH LENGTH Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 The inseam on the pant leg of the pair of jeans is eight stitches per inch. Even though the inside seam of the outer leg is a different classification of stitch, it is also eight stitches per inch in length. The stitches found in the waistline are seven stitches per inch and the stitches found in the yoke are nine stitches per inch. The stitches found in both the front and back pockets are both eight stitches per inch. The decorative stitching on the back pockets is eleven stitches per inch. This pair of jeans received a grade of 3 for its stitch length because for the most part, the stitch length is pretty consistent throughout the garment. The majority of the stitches are eight stitches per inch. The range of stitch length is only four stitches per inch difference. However, denim is a heavier fabric than most so it requires longer stitches. There was no puckering within this garment, so one could assume that the stitch length was an appropriate choice. This stitch length seems to be average for a pair of jeans.

American Rag = 3 The majority of the stitches in this pair of jeans are eight or nine stitches per inch but the range is anywhere from eight to eleven. The inseam on the pant leg is made with eight stitches per inch whereas the outer seam is made with eleven stitches per inch. This is an unusual case because the inseam receives more stress and strain than the outer seam does. However, these are made with two different stitch types which may explain the difference in stitch length. The stitching around the zipper is nine stitches per inch and the stitching around the waistline is eight stitches per inch. The yoke and the back pockets both contain eight stitches per inch.

This garment received a score of 3 because this number of stitching per inch is average for a pair of jeans. The more stitches per inch, the more durable the stitches and seams will be. Also, the denser the fabric, the more stitches are needed. Eight to nine stitches per inch would be secure enough to hold this pair of denim jeans together, but it is definitely not as strong as a higher stitch per inch would be.

Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stitch Length

American Rag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stitch Length

STITCH STRENGTH Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 The 300-class stitches that can be found in some places on this garment are not very durable, and they could rupture easily if strained. That is why the 300-class stitch is only found in a few places on this pair of jeans. The 400-class stitch can be found in more seams that retain a lot of strain. That is because the chainstitch is more durable than the lockstitch due to their looping structure. That is why the 400-class stitch is used on many of the stress points within this pair of jeans, such as the seams on the pant legs. Although strong stitches are used within this garment, the implementation of the sewing of the stitches is what gave this garment a score of a 2 for stitch strength. There are many places throughout the garment where the seams and stitches are coming undone. This is an indicator of the low quality of the manufacturing of these seams and stitches. Even though the stitch type is durable, the actual stitch was poorly made.

American Rag = 3 Throughout this pair of jeans, the classifications used most often are 300 and 400-class stitches. In the majority of the seams, including the inseam of the pant leg and at the waistline, a 400class stitch is used. These stitches are more durable than 300-class stitches; however, they have their disadvantages. A 400-class stitch requires more thread, which makes the seam more bulky and less comfortable for the wearer of the garment. A 300-class stitch was used along the hem of the pants and to attach the back pockets. Although these stitches are less durable the 400class stitches, there are reasons why this garment uses them in certain places. The hem of jeans does not normally receive too much strain or pressure, so there is no need for a stronger stitch.

The back pockets of the jeans are reinforced with bar tacks so they do not require an extra strength stitch as well. However, the inseam of the pant leg retains a lot of strain during the wear of the garment, so it does require a stronger stitch. This pair of jeans received a score of 3 for its stitch type because overall the classifications of stitches seem to match up with their purpose. However, stronger stitch types could be used so the overall stitch classification for this pair of jeans seems to be around the average of what most jeans entail.

STITCH TYPE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 There are three different classifications of stitch type on this pair of jeans. The 300-class stitch can be found where the zipper tape is attached to the garment, on the outside edge of the pockets, and in the hem. It is also used to attach the back patch pocket to the jeans. These types of stitches can be very useful because they are reversible, appearing the same on either side. They are also flat and smooth, which creates comfort for the wearer of the garment. The 400-class stitch can be found at the waistline of the garment, in the button hole, in the belt loops, on the inseam of the pant leg, in the outer seam of the pant leg, in the pocket lining, and as decorative stitching on the back pockets. This type of stitch is useful because they provide a higher production speed. However, they also require more thread, making it bulkier when put into a garment. As well, the raised loops can be easy to catch on jewelry which could cause an inconvenience for the wearer of the garment. The 500-class stitch can be found on the edges of the outer seam in the pant leg of the garment and on the edge of the pocket lining. This is a very extensive type of stitch that is primarily used to finish raw edges of a fabric. This garment received a score of 3 in the stitch type category because it contained mainly 300 and 400-class stitches. These both have their advantages and disadvantages. However, the 400-class stitch type was used on many parts of the garment that would touch the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin. This could cause discomfort to the wearer and create a negative opinion about the comfort of the entire garment.

American Rag = 3 There are three different stitch classifications found on this pair of jeans. The first is the 300class stitch. This can be found on the zipper tape, in the hem of the jeans, the outer seam of the pant legs, and on the back pockets. This type of stitch is durable, but not the most durableâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it is normally used on seams that do not have to withstand much pressure, such as the outer seam of the pant leg. The next stitch type that can be found are 400-class stitches. This is used on the inseam of the pant legs, the waistline, the button hole, the belt loops and on the yoke. These seams are normally the seams that must withstand a lot of pressure and strain, such as the waistline and the inseam of the pant leg. This type of stitch is much more durable than 300class stitch, which is why it is used on more areas within this garment. The third classification of stitches that can be found on this garment are 500-class stitches. These are primarily used to serge the edges of a fabric. This can be found on the outer seams of the pant legs, on the pocket lining, and on the edge of the seams that attach the zipper tape to the garment. This seam is not normally found on a pocket lining, but is typical for the rest of its placement. This garment received a 3 for its score of stitch type because the majority of the stitches used are average for how jeans are normally constructed. The 400-class stitch is used a lot because it is a durable stitch that can hold the dense denim together. Where 400-class stitches are not needed, 300-class stitches are used.

SEAM FINISH Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 The main two types of seams that can be found on this garment are flat-felled seams and plain seams. The flat-felled seams can be found along the inseam of the pant legs, in the center seam that runs down the back of the garment, and in the yoke. These seams are very durable because they are compiled of four layers of fabric. This is a good type of seam for a heavy fabric, such as denim. However, these seams create a lot of bulk. This can be found in this pair of jeans particularly where the yoke and the center back seam meet. This could cause discomfort for the wearer of the jeans, especially when sitting down. The plain seam can be found in the front center seam and on the outer seams of the pant legs. This type of seam is not as durable as flat-felled seams, which is why it is only used in places where the strain is minimal. This pair of jeans seems to have the average type and placement of seams. However, seam allowances can be found throughout this garment, such as a seam pucker where the inseam of the pant leg and the hem meet. This is why this garment received a 2 for seam finish.

American Rag = 3 The two seams found in this private label are flat-felled and plain seams. The flat-felled seams can be found on the inseam of the pant legs, in the yoke, and in the center seam of the garment. This flat-felled seam continuously runs from the front to the back of the garment, unlike in the national brand jeans. All of the flat-felled seams are constructed well and have minimal bulk. Plain seams can be found on the outer seam of the pant legs. This is appropriate since the outer seams do not receive as much pressure or strain as the inseams of the pant legs.

Overall, this pair of jeans has an average seam finish. All of the seams are appropriate for their purpose and they were all well-constructed. There are no noticeable seam finish flaws, which is why this garment received a rating of 3 for this category.

PRICE POINT Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 This pair of Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans was priced at $31.99. These jeans are very reasonably priced compared to some of the other jeans that can be found elsewhere. However, with the small defects and flaws in the jeans, their quality is low relative to their price. Overall, this pair of jeans received a 3 for its price point. After taking into account their quality, the price seems average for the value of these jeans.

American Rag = 4 This pair of jeans was priced at $29.99. This was rated at a 4 because this price for jeans is relatively low. Prices of jeans can range from below $20 to more than $100, so this price is towards the lower end of that scale. When comparing the price to the quality of the jeans, it seems to be reasonable. This pair of jeans has a slightly lower price than the national brand, yet it was made with a fiber blend that is a lot cheaper to produce. The overall jean is assembled well and contains some added features for style that would also raise the price of production. Compared to the scale of prices for jeans, this pair was not the cheapest so they received a score of 4.

PURCHASE PRICE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 There was no sale or discount for this pair of jeans. Therefore, the purchase price stayed at 3.

American Rag = 4 There was no sale on this pair of jeans, so the purchase price is the same as the price point.

BUTTON CLOSURE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 This pair of jeans has a button and button hole at the front of the pants used as a type of closure. This button is a metal button, one of the most expensive yet durable types of buttons. It is attached to a metal base that was punched through the fabric. The button has a face attached to the front of it with the companies name stamped into it. However, it is not attached securely so the button makes a rattling sound when it is hit. The face of the button is one and one half centimeters wide in diameter. The base of the button is one centimeter wide in diameter. The middle of the button is attached directly above the zipper chain. The bottom of the button is located one and one half centimeters away from the zipper. The top of the button is located two centimeters away from the top of the waistline. It is placed three and one half centimeters to the inside of the end of the waistline. The button hole is two centimeters wide. It is teardrop shaped and finished with a class 400 zigzag stitch. This resembles a lockstitch but has interloops on one side whereas lock-stitches are only zigzag. This type of stitch provides more elasticity than lock-stitch zigzags. However, this seam is not even sewn and so some of the fabric on the inside of the stitch is being pulled out. This creates fraying and loose threads which is unattractive to the buyer and does not show very high quality. This is most likely due to the fact that the stitch was not sewn correctly or it was not sewn in the right place. This button and button hole received a score of 2 because there were some problems with the closure, but overall the button was easy to slip in and out of the button hole, making it usable to the wearer. However, the button was not securely attached so it made a rattling

sound and the button hole contained loose ends. This affects the aesthetics of the garment and its perceived quality.

American Rag = 2 This pair of jeans uses a metal button and button hole as a closure at the front of the garment. This button was attached to a metal base that was punched through the fabric. The metal base and majority of the button have a silver color to it. However, there is a brass colored face attached to the front. Unlike on the national brand jeans, this face is securely attached and so at first glance, it looks like part of the button. The face contains the initials of the brand in a unique, cursive font. This adds to the brand presence of the jean as well. The base of the button is three fourths of one centimeter wide in diameter and the face of the button is two centimeters wide. It is located directly above the zipper chain. The button hole was stitched with a class 400 zigzag stitch. On the inside part of the button hole, it can be seen that the stitching is not straightly aligned or even in length. Also, fabric from the inside of the button hole is fraying out, creating an un-aesthetically pleasing button hole. This also indicates the quality of the stitching and the button hole itself. The opening of the button hole is exactly two centimeters long. This is just large enough to accommodate the button though it makes it very difficult for the wearer to successful pull the button through the button hole. This pair of jeans received a score of 2 for its button closure because of the defects associated with the button hole. The button itself is aesthetically pleasing and functional. However, the button hole is not sewn properly and is not large enough for the wearers ease.

Levi’s – Button Closure

ZIPPER TYPE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 This pair of jeans contains a conventional zipper below the button for extra space when getting in and out of the garment. The zipper is approximately three and three quarter inches long and has a brass color to it. The zipper was not produced by YKK, a very popular and expensive zipper brand, but it was produced by the same company that produced the jeans, Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Even though this garment is brand new, there is a loose thread hanging from where the zipper tape was attached inside the two pieces of jean fabric. This loose thread easily gets caught within the zipper chain and could possibly result in the breaking of the zipper. When pulling the zipper slider up and down the zipper chain, it does glide easily but is not the smoothest of zippers. This garment received a rating of 3 for its zipper because it was not produced by the respected zipper manufacturer YKK but it was produced by a well-known company. Also, this zipper seems to be securely attached to the garment, but is not neatly sewn creating loose threads. The zipper does have a good length and glides well which makes it easily usable to the wearer.

American Rag = 2 This pair of jeans contains a conventional zipper at the front of the garment to provide the wearer with extra room when pulling the garment on and off. This zipper is two inches in length. It was not produced by YKK and has no visible company name of the zipper. The zipper is a dark grey color which blends in nicely with the dark blue color of the denim. When pulling the zipper slider up and down the zipper chain, it does not run smoothly and gets caught in the process. This garment received a score of 2 for its zipper type because it was not produced by

YKK or any known company. Also, the zipper length is very small for the function of the garment. Although these are low rise jeans, the length of this zipper makes it difficult for the wearer to successfully pull the zipper all the way op en and closed. Along with the lack of ease to pull the zipper slider up and down, this zipper lacks the quality it needs to be useful to the wearer of the garment.

Levi’s – Zipper Type

American Rag – Zipper Type

ZIPPER STRENGTH Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 One side of the zipper tape is attached to the garment with a class 300 stitch and the ends finished with a class 500 stitch. However, this side of the zipper tape is encased with jean fabric so the zipper tape cannot be seen from the inside. The other side of zipper tape is attached with two lines of class 300 stitches. This zipper tape is not concealed and can easily be seen on the inside of the garment. This seam also contains a seam pucker, lowering the quality and durability of the attached zipper tape. This also lowers the strength of the zipper itself because the seam is more likely to break than a normal seam would. Towards the lower end of the zipper, there are two bar tacks used to keep the zipper secure. This helps to take the sustain some of the pressure that this area of the garment might take on because of the constant pulling on the zipper area. This garment received a score of 2 for its zipper strength because there were some defects to the attachment of the zipper. The seam pucker found on the zipper tape greatly reduces the quality of this garment and its zipper region. However, the zipper was attached with a strong stitch type and reinforced by bar tacks.

American Rag = 2 This zipper was attached using a class 300 level stitch on the zipper tape. There two lines of these stitches on both of the zipper tapes. However, the zipper tape is not very long so the two lines of stitches are only half a centimeter apart. Also, the outer line of stitching is very close to the end of the zipper tape, which increases the risk of a sewing problem if the seam were to pucker. There are two bar tacks at the bottom of the zipper and along the side of the zipper

front which keeps the zipper in place. However, because the zipper is so short in length, the zipper opening has to be pulled to get the zipper slider all the way to the bottom stop. This has created a seam grin at the top of one of the bar tacks, which indicates the lack of durability in this bar tack. This zipper received a score of 2 for its strength because of the small length in its zipper tape and the lack of durability in its bar tack. The small zipper tape length means that the stitches are close together and close to the end of the zipper tape. This increases the risk of a defect in the zipper tape.

HEMS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 The hem on the bottom of these jeans is a folded hem. It is one half inch long. This hem contains a double fold which means that the fabric was folded under twice. This provides more durability than hems that are folded under only once, which is needed for the bottom of a pant leg. This hem is sewn with a class 300 plain stitch. This stitch has the same look on both the front and the back of the stitch. It is also a very durable stitch. However, close to the inside seam of the pant leg, there seems to be some fraying of the thread used for the hem. There is a second stitch on top of the stitch going all the way around the hem. This double stitch, which is identical to the class 300 stitch used on the full hem, stops one and one half inches from the inner seam of the pant leg. The end of this seam is where the loose thread is coming up. This could create possibly problems to the wearer, not to mention bringing down the perceived quality of the garment. This double stitching is found on both hems of the pant legs, but only one has loose thread. Also, there are loose threads coming from the denim material that is directly around the stitch of the hem. This is not found anywhere else on the garment so one could assume that this was a product of a problem with the tension while stitching the hem. This hem for this garment received a grade of 2 because of the loose threads that were found. Also, there was not consistency found on the number of stitching lines all the way around the hem. However, the hem is durable due to its class 300 stitching and its double fold. This hem was lower than average because of its defects.

American Rag = 3 This pair of American Ragâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans has a folded hem at the bottom of each pant leg. This hem is one half inch in length. This hem is folded over twice, creating a double fold which provides extra strength to the hem but also requires a stronger stitch to finish the hem. A class 300 stitch was used all along this hem with a length of nine stitches per inch. This stitching is unified all the way around the hem and does not have any defects or noticeable problems to it. The edge of the pant leg created by the hem was purposeful weathered to make it look like the jean had already been worn in. This matches the worn look of the rest of the jean and keeps the style consistent throughout this garment. This hem is an average hem for the leg of a pair of jeans. It has no visible defects in the stitching and is a double fold, creating durability. That is why this garment received a score of 3 for its hems. This hem is average but does not go above and beyond. For example, there is only one line of stitching in this hem.

POCKET TYPES Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 5 This pair of jeans contains two different types of pockets; patch pockets and in-seam pockets. There are two places where this garment has patch pockets, in the back and on the keyhole pocket. The back pockets of jeans are normally patch pockets, which can have a large effect on the aesthetics of the fit and shape of the garment. These patch pockets do not contain any flaps, which makes them more accessible but less securely for holding items. The watch pocket is located on the front of the jeans, inside the inseam pocket. This is also very common for a pair of jeans. This pocket does not have much function because of its small size, but is primarily used for aesthetics. This pocket is attached with rivets instead of bar tacks. The in-seam pockets found on the front of the pants are also very common for a pair of jeans. This is an exposed inseam pocket with a curved face. This pocket is also attached using rivets. It contains a lining that is sewn to the inside of the pants. This pocket is very useful because of its size and accessibility. Overall, this pair of jeans received a 5 for pocket types. These pants have a wide variety of pockets and they are definitely practical and aesthetically pleasing.

American Rag = 5 This pair of jeans contains two different pocket types; patch pocket and inseam pocket. This garment has a patch pocket in the back and in the front of the jeans. The back pockets are both patch pockets and there is a watch pocket in the front. The back pockets of a jean are typically patch pockets, which has a large effect on the aesthetics of the jean. There is also a decorative design on these back patch pockets, adding to the aesthetics. The front watch pocket is found

inside one of the inseam pockets. The inseam pockets are exposed with a curved face. The edges of these pockets were treated to create a worn look, similar to the hems of the pant legs. This adds to the aesthetic style of the jean and keeps it consistent throughout the garment. This pair of jeans has all the necessary and typical pocket and pocket types that most pair of jeans contain. There are pockets in all of the places where pockets should be and these pockets add to the function and aesthetics of the entire garment. The types of pockets could not be any better on this garment so it received a score of 5.

Levi’s – Pocket Types

American Rag – Pocket Types

POCKET STRENGTH Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 4 The pockets within this garment are attached using two different methods; bar tacks and rivets. Rivets provide a stronger attachment but are bulky which could create discomfort for the wearer. Bar tacks are not as strong as rivets but they are flat so the wearer would not notice this type of attachment as much. The back pockets contain bar tacks and the front pockets contain rivets. The back pockets normally do not handle as much strain and stress as the front pockets do. However, the keyhole pocket in the front also contains rivets. This pocket does not take much strain so the primary use of the rivet there is for aesthetics. Due to the difference in attachment, the back pockets are not as strong as the front pockets. The front pocket contains a lining that is sewn into the inside of the pant. The end of this lining is reinforced with two different types of stitches, 400 and 500-class stitches. The lining of the pocket is also very dense, which would prevent from any holes that might occur within the pocket. This combined with the rivets makes the front pockets very strong and durable. This pair of jeans received a 4 for the pocket strength. The front pockets seem very durable with the combination of rivets and a strong lining. The back pockets are not as strong as the front pockets, but are still reinforced with bar tacks.

American Rag = 4 The pockets in this garment are attached by class 300 stitches and secured by bar tacks and rivets. The back pockets are both attached with two bar tacks at the top corners of the patch. These pockets are attached and hemmed with two lines of class 300 stitches. The two lines of

stitching increases the strength of the pocket attachment. The front pockets, including the watch pocket, all have two rivets at their corner edges to secure them into the garment. The watch pocket is also attached using two lines of class 300 stitching. Even though this pocket does not need that much strength because it does not obtain too much strain, the company still put in two lines of stitching. This garment received a 4 for its pocket strength because the front pockets all contained rivets which strengthens the pocket. The back pockets were not attached with rivets, but were still securely attached with bar tacks. This garment did have strong and secure pockets; however, they did not have rivets everywhere that they could have.

POCKET SIZE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 The back pockets on this pair of jeans have a five and one quarter inch opening. It is six inches long from top to the bottom point. The front pockets have an opening of four inches and are six inches deep. The keyhole pocket has a two inch opening and is three inches from the top to the bottom point. When trying to fit a hand into these pockets, the majority of one full hand can fit into the front pocket, approximately two fingers can fit into the keyhole pocket, and one hand can fit fully into the back pockets. The keyhole pocket sizes are not very convenient if the wearer is trying to fit something large, such as a wallet, into the pocket. The back pocket does have a larger size but is not as strong as the front pockets so may not be able to carry as much weight. This garment received a score of 3 because the pocket sizes are average. The front pockets could hold items that are not too large but could definitely accommodate a wallet or cell phone. The keyhole pocket could really only hold a few coins or a similar small item. The back pockets could hold almost anything a wearer would normally want to put in the pocket of their jeans.

American Rag = 2 Each back pocket opening is four inches wide. The pocket length, from the top to the bottom point, is four and three quarter inches. That is large enough for someone to put the majority of their hand in, but not all the way. The front pockets have an opening of five inches and are five and one half inches deep from the waistline to the bottom of the lining. The opening is definitely a comfortable size for a hand to be put in, but the length of the pocket does not

accommodate one full hand. The watch pocket has an opening that is two inches wide and the length is a little less than four inches. The length for this watch pocket is pretty large but the width of the opening only allows two fingers to be put in at the same time. This garment received a score of 2 for its pocket sizes because of how small the pockets were. The opening of both the back patch pockets and the inseam front pockets were a good size, however the length is not accommodating to some of the items that the wearer might want to put in them. The watch pocket has a small opening, but is good in length. However, if the opening restricts how far you can reach in the pocket, the length really doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do much good.

POCKET LINING Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 This garment contains pocket linings in the main front pockets. These linings are made from a woven material and they are sewn into the inside of the pant leg. The top of the lining is sewn directly into the waistline and is secured by the rivets from the front pockets and the bar tacks from the belt loops directly adjacent to the front pocket. The side of the pocket lining is attached to the inside side seam of the pant leg using a class 300 stitch. The back of the inside of the pocket is attached to the lining using a class 400 stitch. The bottom of the pocket lining is stitched with a class 400 level lining as well as a class 500 stitch that finishes off the end of the fabric of the lining. At the corner of the pocket lining, there is a bar tack to secure the part of the pocket lining that would receive a great amount of strain. This pocket lining received a grade of 3 because it was an average pocket lining. It was securely attached to the garment but did not have anything particularly special to it. It was not aesthetically pleasing, just functional. It contained very strong stitching which increases the durability of the pocket, however there was a serging problem found at the edge of one the pocket linings. This would not greatly affect the function of the pocket but it does reduce the quality.

American Rag = 2 The front pockets of this pair of jeans contain a lining made from a woven fabric. However, this fabric is not as thick as the fabric used in the pocket lining of the national brand jeans. The side of the pocket lining using a class 300 stitch and a bar tack at the bottom. The top of the lining is sewn in with the stitching of the waistline. The inside denim part of the pocket is sewn to the

lining using one line of class 300 stitches. The bottom of the lining is sewn together using one line of a class 300 stitch. This is not a very strong stitch and is not reinforced with anything else even though this is the part of the pocket that receives the most strain. This pocket lining received a 2 for its score because it has done the bare minimum pertaining to strength and durability. Also, this pocket lining has no aesthetically pleasing parts.

Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Lining

American Rag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Lining

RIVETS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 4 This garment contains six rivets on the front. These rivets are found on the corners of the front pockets, including the key pocket. The rivets have a brass color on the outside and a silver color on the inside. They have the initials of the company stamped into the outer edge of the rivet, with a bump in the middle of them. The company name is also stamped on the inside part of the rivet as well. They seem to have a worn look to them because they are discolored in the front. These rivets are used to secure the pockets but do not provide much aesthetic appeal. That is why they received a rating of a 4.

American Rag = 5 This pair of jeans contains a total of six rivets. These rivets can be found on the corners of front pockets, including the watch pocket. These rivets have a brass coloring finish to them. They are completely flat rivets with minimal bulk, which would increase the comfort of the garment for the wearer. The rivets contain the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s initials on the front of them, in the same cursive writing that is found on the face of the button. These rivets received a score of 5 because they are not only functional, but aesthetically pleasing and comfortable.

BAR TACKS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 5 This garment contains many places where bar tacks were used. First, bar tacks can be found where the belt loops are attached to the waistline of the jean. Second, bar tacks were used twice at the base of the conventional zipper. Third, bar tacks were used on the corners of the back patch pockets. Bar tacks are used to reinforce areas of high stress. All of the areas that bar tacks were found on this pair of jeans fit that category. Belt loops take in a high amount of strain because of the stress that a belt can put on them. The portion of the jeans where the zipper is located also handles much strain from constantly being opened and closed and pulled on. The back pockets did not contain rivets because of the lack of comfort they would have put on the wearer of the jeans. However, these pockets still obtain a lot of stress so that is why a bar tack was used to attach them. This pair of jeans received a grade of 5 for bar tacks. Bar tacks were used in all of the right places and had no visible mistakes to them.

American Rag = 4 This garment contains a total of sixteen bar tacks. These can be found on both ends of all the belt loops, on the corners of the back patch pockets, at the side of both front pocket linings, and two at the zipper. These bar tacks are stitched using the same color thread that is used in the rest of the garment. The bar tacks found on the belt loops run all the way across the length of the belt loop. Each bar tack is sewn nicely and do not seem to have any defects to them. This garment received a 4 for its bar tacks because they were found in most of the areas that they

could be found. However, there were no bar tacks in the pocket linings, such as the national brand jeans contained, so the garment was not perfect in the use of its bar tacks.

BELT LOOPS Levi’s = 2 The Levi’s pair of jeans that were bought at Macy’s contains five belt loops. There are two belt loops found on the front of the jeans and three on the back of the pants. The two belt loops on the front of the pair of jeans are attached to the inside of each pocket. The two outside belt loops on the back of the pants are attached on top of the split yoke. The belt loop directly in the middle of the back of the pants is attached one inch about the split yoke, on the back middle seam. Each belt loop is two and a quarter inches long and half an inch wide. The front two belt loops are six and three quarter inches apart. Also, the front two belt loops measured to the back two belt loops are six and three quarter inches apart. The back three belt loops are seven inches and seven and one quarter inches apart respectively. The actual strip of fabric that makes up the belt loop is stitched with a class 400 stitch. It is then folded over at the ends where it was attached to the waistline of the pants so that there are two layers of fabric to ensure strength. However, if the belt loop is lifted up, one can clearly see the excess fabric from when the belt loop was folded over and attached. The end of the belt loop that was folded over is not finished and is cut to a point. It is then attached to the waistline with a bar tack. This is only one centimeter wide and is spaced very closely together. This pair of jean’s belt loops got a rating of 2 because the loops were not evenly spread apart along the pair of jeans, especially in the back where there was a one quarter inch difference. Also, the finishes on the inside of the belt loop were not very well done and very easy to see. However, all the belt loops were stitched the same and using strong stitches so the belt loops are probably very durable.

American Rag = 1 This garment contains five belt loops at the waistline of the garment. This is an average number of belt loops found in most jeans. There are two belt loops found on the front of the jeans and three on the back. Each belt loop was two and one half inches in length, which is slightly longer than the belt loops found in the national brand jeans. That means that these belt loops could accommodate a slightly larger belt, which is practical for the user of the garment. The belt loops are sewn primarily with a class 400 stitch and attached with bar tacks. Each end of the belt loops are folded over and then stitched to the waistline which enhances the durability. However, one of the back belt loops is attached incorrectly due to the fact that the folded under portion was not aligned with the rest of the belt loop when it was sewn. This creates a very visible defect in the belt loop and takes away from the aesthetics of the garment. When the garment is buttoned, the two front belt loops are three inches apart from each other. Each of these belt loops are directly next to the corners of the front pockets. However, the belt loop on the left is two inches away from the button whereas the button on the right is one half inch away from the edge of the button hole. This creates the look of a defect in the placement of the belt loops when the garment is buttoned. Each front belt loop is five and one half inches away from the next belt loops located on the back of the waistline. One of the side back belt loops is six inches away from the center back belt loop while the other side back belt loop is six and one half inches away from the center back belt loop. This creates an inconsistency with the positioning of the belt loops. This garment received a score of 1 because multiple defects were found on the attachment and placement of the belt loops.

THREAD COLOR Levi’s = 4 The Levi’s pair of jeans contains two different thread colors, one is a tan color and the other is a very light blue. This is not necessarily extremely noticeable when first looking at the pair of jeans, but with further analyzing one can notice the contrasting colors. Overall, both thread colors are noticeably different from the color of the pair of jeans. This creates a fashionable look, but it also makes seam allowances and thread defects more obvious. The two different colors are incorporated very well throughout the pair of jeans. In most places, the two thread colors are used directly next to each other, sometimes in the same seam. Because the colors are not too contrasting, this technique of combining the two color threads works well. The only places on the jeans where the two colored threads are not used together are in the hem of the pant legs and the seam running from the front zipper to the yoke in the back of the jeans. The hem only had one line of stitching so that is why there was only one color of thread used there. The seam connecting the two sides of the pants is not a seam that people would want to be highlighted so that is probably why they only used on thread color. This pair of jeans received a grading of 4 for its thread color because Levi’s did a good job of incorporating a creative and subtle way to integrate two thread colors within one pair of jeans. However, because the threads were a different color than the jeans, the seam allowances and thread defects that the pair of jeans contained were much more noticeable.

American Rag = 3 The thread color chosen for this garment is contrasting to the color of the denim. The thread color is a bright gold all throughout this garment. This goes with the brass coloring of the button and bar tacks in the front of the jeans. The thread used for the decorative stitching is a slightly lighter shade of gold. This garment does contain colored thread that was used to enhance the style of the garment. This would create a more visible representation of seam allowances and stitching defects, however not many of these were not found on this particular garment. Only one color of thread was used throughout the entire garment. This pair of jeans received a score of 3 for its color of thread because the producer did put extra money into making a different colored thread, but that was all that was done. This thread color seems to be very average.

American Rag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Thread Color

THREAD DEFECTS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 1 Throughout this pair of Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans, there are a considerable number of thread defects. At some of the seams, there are loose threads at the end that were not cleaned up before the finishing of the garment. This can be found in the hem of the pant legs and the seam of the front pocket. Also, there are two very noticeable loose threads at the top of the jeans near the zipper area. One of them is directly next to the zipper, which could create a problem by getting caught in the zipper and creating the zipper to be stuck. However, this thread is similar to the color of the fabric of jeans. On the other hand, the second loose thread is a shade of light blue, which stands out significantly. This thread is found at the waistline of the pair of jeans, close to the button area. The worst part about these loose threads is that they are not just pieces of extra thread that was forgotten to be cut. These threads are currently being used in a seam and when pulled, they are destroying the seam. This could create a huge problem for the wearer of the garment. That is why this pair of jeans received an overall score of 1 for its thread defects.

American Rag = 4 Throughout this garment, there seem to be a limited number of thread defects. There are no loose threads that pull out a seam, as the ones that were found on the national brand. The only possible problem found in the thread of the garment was at the waistline and bottom of the zipper region. At these regions, there is some fraying of the thread that was created from the lack of cleaning up the end of a stitch. This can be noticed more because of the thread color,

yet it is a minimal defect. This pair of jeans is not perfect in its thread defects, but has a very small number of defects in it. That is why it received a score of 4.

Levi’s – Thread Defects

American Rag – Thread Defects

DECORATIVE FEATURES Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 The back pockets of this pair of jeans have a creative and decorative stitching pattern on them. There is no practical use for this extra cost, only an aesthetically pleasing feature of the jeans. This stitching is eleven stitches per inch which is a higher quality length of stitch than is used on the majority of the seams for the rest of the jean. That also means that the price of making this decorative feature is relatively high. Both of the two thread colors are used for this decorative stitching, giving it more style. Also, the design that is used on the back pockets is a trademark of Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans. This gives the decorative stitching a purpose other than just being aesthetically pleasing. This pair of jeans received an overall score of 3 for its decorative features because the company did put extra money into making a decorative feature for this garment. However, this particular decorative feature is pretty average on a pair of jeans, so that is why Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got a score of 3.

American Rag = 4 The only decorative feature found on this garment is the decorative stitching on the back pockets. There are two lines of decorative stitching on the pocket that create a creative design. The type of stitch used is very detailed and integrate. In between these two lines of stitching is a layer of fiber web interfacing. This can be found on the inside of the patch pocket. This increases the cost and the quality of this garment. The decorative stitching found on the back pockets was completely produced to enhance the aesthetics of the garment. This pair of jeans received a score of 4 because it did contain a high quality decorative feature, but only one.

Levi’s – Decorative Features

American Rag – Decorative Features

TAGS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 This pair of jeans contains two tags sewn into the inside of the waistline of the garment. One of the tags is located on the back middle of the inside waistline. This is a woven tag, which creates a sense of quality in the garment. It also contains three different colors, light blue, dark blue, and yellow. The only information found on this tag is the jeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style and the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name. This tag is two and one half inches long and is only one half inch wide. It is attached on the two short ends which creates space between the body of the tag and the garment. It does not lay flat against the fabric, which could cause some discomfort to the wearer. Also, this tag was cut with a hot knife and so the edges are stiff. This could also bring discomfort to the wearer. The second tag is found on top of the left pocket on the inside of the jeans. There are two pieces of fabric that make up the tag and they are sewn into the seam of the waistline. They hang down parallel to the length of the pant leg. These tags are printed, which is a fast and cheap way to produce a tag. These tags primarily contain information about the garment itself, such as the fabric content, the country of origin, and washing instructions. The outside of these tags have a semi stiff feeling while the part that faces the inside, where the labels touch each other, has a silky feel to it. In general, these tags are not very stiff so they would not produce that much discomfort to the wearer; however they are three inches long, which might bother some buyers. Together, this garment received a rating of 2 for all its tags because the tags provided minimal information and there was only one high quality tag within the garment. In addition, these tags may cause discomfort to the wearer due to their edges or their length.

American Rag = 3 There are two types of tags found in this pair of jeans; a screen printed tag and a woven tag. They are both located on the inside of the waistband, one at the center back and the other in front of the pocket lining. The screen printed tag is not screen printed onto another piece of fabric and then attached to the garment, whereas it is directly screen printed to the waistline of the jean. This tag has the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name in cursive writing and the style of jeans in block letters. Both of these are in a cream colored font. The other tag is a woven tag. It contains one piece of fabric that is folded over itself and sewn into the waistline of the garment. This has created a tag with two sides to it. Although this tag is woven and was cut with a hot knife, the edges are not as stiff as the tag found in the national brand jeans. This tag is only one and one fourth inches long and one inch wide. It contains information about the fabric content, the size of the jeans, the RN number, the country of origin, the care instructions, and the brand name. Because this tag is relatively small, the writing is small as well. This garment received a score of 3 for its tags. The tags are relatively small and so they would not create discomfort for the wearer of the garment. This prevents them from being cut out, which would defeat their purpose. However, these tags were relatively inexpensive to produce and not much labor was put into making them aesthetically pleasing. These tags are average, with their advantages and disadvantages, which is why they received a score of 3.

CARE LABEL Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 4 The care instructions can be found on the label inside the garmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waistline. The instructions say to machine wash these jeans in cold water. It also says to wash them with like colors and to turn them inside out when washing. Lastly, the label states to only use non-chlorine bleach when needed and to tumble the jeans dry on a medium setting. These instructions are flexible, easy to follow and provide helpful tips to the wearer of this garment. Also, this garment does not need much extra care, such as the requirement to take it to a dry cleaner. These instructions are also provided in two different languages other than English. This pair of jeans received a 4 for its care instructions because they are easy to follow and do not require much maintenance.

American Rag = 3 The care instructions for this garment can be found on the woven tag that is located in front of the pocket lining on the inside of the waistband. This care label provides the minimum of information for the wearer to be able to wash this item properly. It tells the customer that the jeans need to be washed in cold water with similar colors. It mentions that non-chlorine bleach should be used and some instructions on drying the garment. This is only found in one language and is in small print. This care label is an average label for a pair of jeans. There is nothing special about the care instructions, but they are there.

CROCKING TEST Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 When performing a crocking test on this pair of jeans, the dye of the fabric did wear off onto the white piece of paper. Even though this pair of jeans is a dark shade of blue, this still should not happen. Also, nowhere on any of the care labels does it warn the customer of this possible problem that may arise when first washing the pair of jeans. This pair of jeans did crock, but the color was not as dark and deep as it was when the private brand was crocked. Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s received a score of 2 for its crocking test because this garment did fail the test, but not to the degree that the private brand did.

American Rag = 1 When performing a crocking test on this pair of jeans, the dye did rub off onto the white piece of paper. Even though this pair of jeans has a dark wash to them, this should not happen and is an indicator of the lack of quality dye that was used on this denim. There was no label on this pair of jeans that warned the customer of the possibility of the dye coming off within the first wash of this item. This could cause problems for the wearer and ruin other clothes if they washed them with other things on the first wash. This pair of jeans crocked a darker color than the national brand did even though they are the same shade of denim. This American Rag pair of jeans received a 1 for its crocking test because it completely failed the test.

ADVERTISED FEATURES Levi’s = 2 The removable tags featured on this garment are very average. There are three removable tags that can be found, on sticker on the leg of the pant, one that is hanging from a front belt loop, and one that is attached to the waistband at the back of the jeans. All of these tags do have the same pattern and colors on them, but the pattern is hardly noticeable and the colors do not stand out. The removable sticker found on the pant leg does not provide much information. This tag repeats the same four lines three times right underneath each other. The lines read “Levi’s; 13 Medium; 524; Boot Cut”. Although this does provide information about the type and style of jean, it is the bar minimum of information that could be provided and it is not done in a creative way. The tag that is hanging from the front belt loop is more professional looking. This tag is made from a stiff cardboard material and so it is less likely to get bent or destroyed in the store. It is attached with a strong string that is looped around one of the belt loops. This tag displays its information in a better way than the sticker did, but it still does not provide all that much information. There are different fonts used on this tag and the “Levi’s” is indented into the tag using a silvery color. However, this tag only provides the information that the jeans are boot cut, that they are ultra low rise and stretch denim, and that the name is “too superlow 524”. On the back of this tag, there is the classic red “Levi’s” logo and that is all. This tag is more aesthetically attractive than the sticker tag but it only provides the minimum amount of information for the customer. The tag that is attached to the waistband of the jeans is the worst of the three in an aesthetically pleasing manner. This tag is made of a weak paper so the

ends are flipping up and folding. This tag contains the bar code and the price of the jeans, however, the price is very hard to see and is on a sticker that was put on this tag. This tag was clearly only put on for the purpose of the salesclerk to be able to ring up the pair of jeans. Overall, this pair of jeans does provide some information with its removable tags, but only the average amount of information. These tags would not draw in any customers and they might even draw away some customers due to their lack of quality. This is why Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s received a score of 2 for their advertised features.

American Rag = 3 This garment contains three removable tags attached to the upper region of the jeans. One of these tags is directly attached to the waistband of the pants, another is attached by a string of plastic to the bottom of the waistband, and another that is tied around a front belt loop using a ribbon. Two of these tags match in their font, background and color whereas the third tag is different. The tag that is directly attached to the waistband matches the tag that is hanging by a ribbon to a belt loop. The tag that is attached to the waistband has the brand name, the style of the jean, the size of the jean, the rise of the jean and the length of the jean. There are three places just on this tag where the size and the style of the jean are printed. These are in bold and capitalized font. The font is in a navy blue color and the background is a cream color with a Florida-lee design. The tag that is hanging from a belt loop has the same color pattern and same design in the background. One side just has the style of jean in a big font size and the brand name at the bottom. The other side contains a sketch of the jean, the style of jean, and the rise and length of the jean. It is attached using a silky ribbon that has the matching Florida-lee design on it. The hole where the ribbon is attached to the tag is reinforced with a metal open

rivet. The tag that is attached using a plastic tie is mainly for the salesclerkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s purpose. It is not very aesthetically pleasing but it contains the bar code, the size, the price, and the customer return label. On the other side it just has the brand name. Two out of three of these tags are aesthetically pleasing and they all provide relevant information. However, the minimum amount of information was supplied so these jeans received a score of 3 for their advertised features.

BRAND PRESENCE Levi’s = 4 Levi’s pair of jeans did very well with its brand presence. There are five different items on the jeans that contain the company’s name, not including the features that are automatically recognized with the company. First, the bar tacks, the zipper, and the button in the front of the jeans all contain Levi’s name on them. Even the inside piece of the bar tacks contains the company’s initials on it. Although these are small features, they can be noticed by the customer. Also, Levi’s put extra money into making sure that the customer knew their name by putting it on all the little features within the garment. Second, there is a patch sewn onto the back of the waistband of the jeans that has the company’s name and logo on it. This patch is only about two inches by one inch, but it is something that could be noticed by someone who was looking at this pair of jeans from the back. Third, Levi’s has a distinct red tag that is put on every back pocket of every pair of jeans that they make. This has been known to be associated with Levi’s even is someone can’t see the actually writing on it that says the company’s name. Lastly, the back pockets contain a decorative stitching pattern that is also associated with Levi’s jeans. This is another aspect to the brand presence that would make it abundantly clear who produced these pair of jeans. Levi’s received a score of 4 for its brand presence because they provided many aspects to the jean that would make it clear to the wearer and to others around them that this pair of jeans was made by Levi’s. However, the actual name of the company is not too large on any of these features so if it happens that someone is not familiar with Levi’s trademarks, they may not know who produced the jeans.

American Rag = 2 This garment only has two places where the outside observer could see the brand name. These can be found on the rivets and the button on the front of the jeans. Each of the six rivets contain the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s initials and is written in a cursive font that matches the one found on the face of the button. However, these are very small representations of the brand name and they only include the initials so if someone did not know what the initials stood for, they would not know which brand it was. This garment received a 2 for brand presence because the brand presence was very small and did not really do its purpose, but it was still provided in some way.

NOTICEABLE FLAWS Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 2 As it has been discussed in many different categories, this pair of jeans does contain a considerable amount of noticeable flaws. First, there are many loose threads and unclean seams throughout the garment. This is a flaw that is enhanced by the contrasting color of the thread within the jeans. Also, the seams used in the hems were not put together in a high quality format so there is a line of stitches that ends with no reason. There are some measuring and sewing defects found throughout the garment as well. The yoke is not perfectly aligned in the back of the pants and the belt loops are not equally spaced apart. There are no flaws in the fabric of the garment. However, this pair of jeans does contain some noticeable flaws so it received a score of 2 for this category.

American Rag = 3 There are only a few noticeable flaws within this garment. The first would be the uncut ends of threads that are found at the front of the jeans. The second would be the belt loop that was poorly sewn. The third would be the difference in length between belt loops and the flawed belt loop that was attached unevenly. These flaws are noticeable to the wearer, though they are not otherwise noticeable. Most of these flaws are all pertaining to the aesthetics of the garment, not necessarily the function. This pair of jeans received a score of 3 for its noticeable flaws because the garment did contain some, but they only lowered the perceived quality of the garment.

YOKE Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 This pair of jeans contains a split yoke, also known as a riser. This runs from the side seam to side seam along the back side of the pants. This yoke is sewn into a slight â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vâ&#x20AC;? shape, dipping lower in the back middle section of the pants. The two parts of the yoke divided by the middle seam were sewn separately. When they come together in the back of the pants, one part of the yoke is slightly higher than the other. This diminishes the perceived value and quality of the garment. This yoke is stitched with two lines of a class 400 stitch. The thread used at the top of the yoke is a different color than the thread used at the bottom of the yoke. Both of these colored threads can be found throughout the garment. By using these two colored threads so close to each other, the yoke brings together these two colors and makes the difference hardly visible. This garment received a rating of 3 for its yoke. This is because the yoke had both aesthetically pleasing and non-aesthetically pleasing aspects to it. The slight difference in the height of the two sections of the yoke coming together was not very aesthetically pleasing. However, the use of two different colored threads brought together the colors throughout the garment and provided a unique touch. Also, the yoke used a strong stitch which increases the durability, however it had bulky seam which decreases the comfort of the garment.

American Rag = 5 This pair of jeans contains a split yoke, also known as a riser. It starts at the side seams of the pants and runs through the back of the pants. It is stitched with two lines of a class 400 stitch, which is very secure and durable. This yoke contains a flat felt seam at the back middle seam of

the pants. This creates some bulk in that area, but not as much compared to the bulk found in the national brand jeans. Also, the two sides of the yoke are evenly aligned at the back seam, unlike the yoke on the national brand jeans. This yoke is very secure and aesthetically pleasing. It could not have been any better. That is why it received a score of 5.

FADING / COLORING Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s = 3 This pair of jeans has a very slight amount of fading to it. There are faded horizontal lines near the front pockets which create a look that these jeans have been worn before. There is a slight color change in the middle of each pant leg that runs from the top of the jeans to just below the knee. There is also a slight fading on the back of the jeans, but this would not be very noticeable unless one was analyzing the jeans. This pair of jeans has an average amount of fading to it so that is why it received a score of 3 for the fading category.

American Rag = 4 This pair of jeans contains a lot of fading in the front and the back of the garment. The fading is a significantly different color from the dark color of the denim. This continues the worn out look that can be found throughout this pair of jeans. This fading starts at the very top of the waistline on both sides in the front and runs to just below the knee. On the back, the fading is the same color and so is also very noticeable. It starts just below the center of the yoke and runs about three and one half inches below the back pockets. The fading was well done on this pair of jeans for the style that the company was trying to portray. However, because the fiber content has a lot of polyester in it and a less percentage of cotton, the fabric tends to look somewhat grainy. The fading brings out this un-aesthetically pleasing aspect of the garment. This pair of jeans received a 4 for its fading because the fading was done well, but due to other factors of the garment, it did not look like high quality fading.

MACY’S – LEVI’S vs. AMERICAN RAG CONCLUSION Levi’s = 83 / 150 American Rag = 92 / 150 After analyzing and ranking these two pairs of jeans on thirty different categories, the national brand, Levi’s, received an overall score of 88 out of 150 and the private label, American Rag, received an overall score of 92 out of 150. This was surprising to my group and I because the national brand is known more than the private brand is and so one would assume that it is a higher quality. In fact, the opposite is true. The private label seemed to score better on a majority of the categories. The main differences that we saw between the two pairs of jeans were in the thread defects category and the noticeable defects category. The national brand, Levi’s, did not seem as though it was put together with much care because of all the loose threads and seam allowances that could be found on the pair of jeans. The private brand, American Rag, barely had any thread defects or seam allowances which enhanced its overall perception of quality. The private brand scored the same or higher on 23 out of the 30 categories that were analyzed. That shows that the private brand did not just have a few features that were amazing and that contributed to their higher overall score than Levi’s, but that the private label jeans were produced at an overall better quality. However, the scores between the two jeans are pretty close. So if a consumer put more weight on the brand presence category than the thread defects category, then they may choose to buy the Levi’s pair of jeans. Overall, I have learned that many customers do not put as much effort into

analyzing the jeans before buying them, so they may be blinded by the defects in the manufacturing of that particular garment.

DISCOUNT / MASS RETAILERS TARGET – CONVERSE ONE STAR vs. MOSSIMO

**REPLACE W/ TARGET PAGE FILE!!!**

TARGET – TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………..……………………….…………….….…………………71 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #2………………….…………………………….…………72 CONTENT CATEGORIES FOR GRADING 1. Fiber Content……………………………………………………………………………………………………73 2. Weight of Fabric……………………………………………………………………….………………………73 3. Stitch Length…………………………………………………………………………………………………….74 4. Stitch Strength………………………………..………………………………………………………………..74 5. Stitch Type………………………………………………………………………………………………………..75 6. Seam Finish………………………………………………………………………………………………………75 7. Price Point………………………………………………..………………………………………………………76 8. Purchase Price………………………………………………………………………………………………….76 9. Button Closure……………………..…………………………………………………………………………..77 10. Zipper Type……………………………………………………………………………………………….………77 11. Zipper Strength………………………………..……………………………………………………………….78 12. Hems………………………………………..………………………………………………………………………78 13. Pocket Types…………………………………………………………………………………………………….79 14. Pocket Strength……………………………………………….……………………………………………….80 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….80 15. Pocket Sizes…………………………….………………………………………………………………………..81 16. Pocket Lining…………………………….………………………………………………………………………82 17. Rivets………………………………………………….…………………………………………………………….83 18. Bar Tacks……………………………………………………..……………………………………………………84 19. Belt Loops…………………………………………………………………………………………………………85 20. Thread Color…………………………………………….………………………………………………………85 21. Thread Defects………………………………………………….………………………………………………86 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….86 22. Decorative Features………………………………………….………………………………………………87 a. Photograph.…………………………………..………………………………………………….87 23. Tags………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….88 24. Care Label……………………………………………….………………………………………………………..89 a. Photograph.…………………………………..………………………………………………….89 25. Crocking Test………………………………………….…………………………………………………………90 26. Advertised Features………………………………………………………………………………………….91 27. Brand Presence…………………………………………………………………………………………………92 a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….92 28. Noticeable Flaws………………………………………………………………………………………………93 29. Yoke..……………………..…………………………………………………………………………………………94

a. Photographs…………………………………..………………………………………………….94 30. Fading / Coloring…………………………………………………………………………..………………….95 CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………….…………………...…………………………………96

TARGET â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CONVERSE ONE STAR vs. MOSSIMO INTRODUCTION The first discount and mass retailer we chose to visit was Target. Target initially used to sell products made by private labels, but in the last several years, Target has started selling products from national brands, too. This decision has impacted Targetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success in a positive way due to the fact that national brands are well known to consumers. Not only does Target sell merchandise from national brands, but they sell them for a discounted price, giving Target a competitive advantage. The jeans we will be comparing are by a national brand, Converse One Star, and by a private label, Mossimo. The style of jeans we purchased were dark wash jeans. The pair by Converse was a skinny jean, and the pair from Mossimo was a boot-cut. They are the most similar jeans, both in color and cut, available.

National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #2 WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

TARGET NATIONAL CONVERSE ONE STAR 5 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 3 2 3 3 4 4 3 3 3 3 4 3 2 4 3 3 3 3 4 3 3 3 92/150 61.3% 3.1 2

PRIVATE MOSSIMO 5 4 2 3 3 3 4 4 3 5 4 2 5 4 4 2 5 5 3 4 2 3 3 4 1 4 2 2 5 4 104/150 69.3% 3.5 1

**Mossimo (private label) scored 12 points higher than Converse One Star (national brand).

FIBER CONTENT Converse One Star = 5 Mossimo =5 In terms of the fiber content, both the Mossimo pair, as well as the Converse All Star pair were made of 99% cotton and 1% spandex. This combination of material is great for denim jeans because there is some stretch, but not enough to make the jeans become too stretched out after a few wears and washes.

WEIGHT OF FABRIC Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The weight of the fabric in jeans, and in any article of clothing, suggests the quality of the product. In the jeans by Converse All Star, the weight of the fabric felt fairly average when lifted. The jeans by Converse All Star weighed less than the jeans by Mossimo. The jeans by the private label, Mossimo, weighed heavier than an average pair of jeans.

STITCH LENGTH Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =2 The stitch length is an important factor to take into account when understanding the quality of clothing. In the national brand, the stitch count was eight stitches per inch. The private label had a stitch count at five stitches per inch. The higher the amount of stitches per inch, the stronger the product, and the better the quality. Therefore, the jeans by Mossimo have a weaker stitch length, and therefore received a low grade. In this occurrence, the national label proved to be better when it comes to the stitch count in their jeans.

STITCH STRENGTH Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =3 Stitch strength is also a vital feature when analyzing the quality of jeans. Although the national brand had a better stitch count, the stitch type used in the jeans was the same stitch count as used in the jeans by the private label. The jeans received the same grade for stitch strength because the strength of the stitches was average for a pair of jeans.

STITCH TYPE Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =3 The type of stitching used determines the strength of the jeans. The 300-400- class stitches were the most prominent in both pairs of jeans. The jeans by Converse One Star used a 301 Lockstitch almost entirely in the jeans. The hem, yoke, waistband, and pocket lining were all stitched in a 301 Lockstitch. The same goes for the Mossimo pair, as there is one main stitch, which is the 301 Lockstitch. Because of the lack of diversity in the stitch type, the brands both received an average grade.

SEAM FINISH Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =3 Flat-felled seams were used quite often in the Mossimo jeans. Specifically, they were used in the yokes and on the inseam of the jeans. On other parts of the jeans, such as the outer seam, there was some surging. In the jeans by Converse One Star, there was mostly surging of the seams. However, the yoke was flat-felled.

PRICE POINT Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =4 The price point for both pairs of jeans was in the less expensive area. The price for the Converse One Star jeans was $29.99, while the price for the Mossimo jeans was $24.99. Both of these jeans are extremely affordable, which is what Target strives to do as a retailer.

PURCHASE PRICE Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =4 The purchase prices did not change from the price point. Neither of the jeans purchased and analyzed were bought at a sale price. The price for the jeans by Converse One Star remained $29.99, which the price for the jeans by Mossimo remained priced at $24.99.

BUTTON CLOSURE Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =3 Button closures serve as the means of how one gets the jeans on and off. If either the button or the buttonhole is too big or too small, the jeans will not be able to easily get on and off. Fortunately, in both the private label and the national brand, the buttons fit well in the buttonhole. However, the buttonholes themselves were frayed along the borders.

ZIPPER TYPE Converse One Star = 2 Mossimo =5 The type of zipper used in a garment is an important aspect in determining quality of that garment. In Converse One Star the zipper type was a standard steel zipper. It proved difficult to zip and unzip in a quick manner. In the jeans by Mossimo, the zipper was made by YKK, which is the best zipper in the industry. The zipper was easy to zip and unzip and did not get caught on the fabric. Because of the high quality of the zipper and the ease of zipping and unzipping, the grade received was a five, which is the highest grade possible.

ZIPPER STRENGTH Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The zipper strength of the jeans by Converse One Star was mediocre. The teeth were made of steel, which is great, but the teeth were not very big. In the Mossimo jeans, the zipper proved to be fairly strong. In a YKK zipper, the expectation is that the zipper will hold up properly in the jeans. After analyzing the zipper, this expectation is met in the strength of the zipper.

HEMS Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =2 In both pairs of jeans analyzed, the hems were less than spectacular. The Converse One Star pair had decent hems, as they were double-folded. While the Mossimo pair also had doublefolded hems, there were threads in various parts on the hem that were coming out.

POCKET TYPES Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =5 The pockets in the jeans were impressive. The Converse One Star pair had five pockets. There were two inseam pockets in the front, a watch pocket in the front, and two patch pockets in the back. The Mossimo jeans had the same pocket layout, however, the pockets were bigger and looked nicer.

POCKET STRENGTH Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =4 The pockets in the jeans by Mossimo were quite impressive. There were rivets, even on the back pockets, for added strength. The denim was strong, as well. One downfall, however was that the pocket lining had gaps in the seams and therefore, the pockets would not hold well on the inside. In terms of the pockets in the jeans by Converse One Star, they were also strong. The lining proved to suffice and the exteriority of the pockets was also durable.

Converse One Star â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Strength

Mossimo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Strength

POCKET SIZES Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The size of the pockets in the jeans by Converse One Star was basic for jeans. They were not too big, nor were they too small. The pocket size in the jeans by Mossimo was quite impressive. The pockets, not including the watch pocket, were easily big enough for phones, wallets, and other electronic devices. It was surprising that the pockets were of a good size because many pairs of jeans for women have somewhat smaller pockets due to the fact that many women use other means, such as purses, for carrying objects.

POCKET LINING Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =2 The pocket lining in the jeans by Mossimo were subpar. The fabric used to line the pockets was rough and scratchy. The bottom seam of the lining had gaps, as it was not stitched tightly. The lining of the pockets in the Converse One Star brand was typical. The fabric used to line was nothing special, but it does its job and does not have flaws in the seams. Overall, the quality of the pocket lining was disappointing.

RIVETS Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =5 The rivets placed on the jeans by Converse One Star were placed in the standard way. There were five rivets total. They were all located on the front pockets, as two each were on the inseam pockets, and one on the watch pocket. The rivets on the jeans by Mossimo were notable. There were seven rivets total, which exceeds the expectation of the number of rivets on a typical pair of jeans. On this pair, there were two rivets per inseam pocket in the front, a rivet on the watch pocket, and one rivet on each back pocket. The rivets on the Mossimo jeans surpassed what we had anticipated.

BAR TACKS Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =5 The bar tacks used in the Converse One Star pair of jeans were placed on the belt loops, the outer seam on the legs, and on the back pockets. Though these are all excellent places to have rivets, there were places on the jeans that could have also had a rivet. The rivets in the jeans by Mossimo were abundant. There were rivets on the belt loops, twice on the fly of the zipper, on the watch pocket, on the front of the jeans near a pocket, but not directly on it, on the back pockets, twice on the back near the yoke, and on the side of the legs. The total count of bar tacks on the Mossimo pair is twenty. That is remarkable compared to the number of bar tacks on the Converse One Star pair, which totaled fourteen.

BELT LOOPS Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =3 Both pairs of jeans had five belt loops total, which is the standard amount of belt loops in an average pair of jeans. However, the Converse One Star pair scored higher because of the embellishment on one of the belt loops.

THREAD COLOR Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The thread color for both pairs of jeans was gold. In the Mossimo jeans, however, the gold was brighter and it was obvious that the color was selected to make the jeans more fashionable and aesthetically appealing. The Converse One Star pair, though it also had gold thread, the color was almost a yellow color rather than gold, and it did not enhance the style of the jeans. Instead, it made the jeans look cheap. The yellow-gold thread also clashed with the silver studs located on the back pockets and on one of the front belt loops.

THREAD DEFECTS Converse One Star = 2 Mossimo =2 Both pairs of jeans had a considerable amount of thread defects. There were threads loose on the belt loops and the pockets, but most of the loose threads were mainly on the hems, which is a major downfall because the hem can become unraveled over time or if the wearer or someone else steps on the string by accident. The thread is what holds the jeans together, so if the thread is defected, then the jeans will ultimately come apart.

Converse One Star â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Thread Defects

Mossimo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Thread Defects

DECORATIVE FEATURES Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =3 The jeans by Mossimo did not possess a great amount of decorative stitching. There was an extra stitching around the boarder of a pocket, but it can be argued that it is used as added strength, rather than for decorative purposes. The Converse One Star jeans had a bit more decoration, particularly on the back pockets, which were studded, and on one of the belt loops, which also contained some silver metal studs.

Converse One Star â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Decorative Features

TAGS Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =3 Both pairs of jeans had a tag that was screen printed along the inside of the waistband, as well as an embroidered tag with the size, fiber content and laundering instruction. In the jeans by Mossimo, the embroidered tag was located directly in the back and center, whereas the jeans by Converse One Star had the embroidered tag located on the left side of the inside of the waistband.

CARE LABEL Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The care label in the jeans by Converse One Star was how common care labels are. It stated the country of origin, the laundering instructions, and the fiber content. The care label on the jeans by Mossimo stated the same thing, but they also added a tag on the exterior of the garment which explained that the jeans have been dyed with indigo dye and therefore need to be washed separately for four or five times. This extra tag was a great addition to the care label because if the consumer washes the garment with other clothes, the other clothes will get ruined. The care label on both jeans says to machine wash cold separately, inside out, and to tumble dry low. It also mentions not to bleach and that it is ok to use a warm iron if needed.

Mossimo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Care Label

CROCKING TEST Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =1 There was mild crocking in the jeans by Converse One Star. In the pair of jeans by Mossimo, the crocking was intense and the white paper was a deep blue almost instantly. We were surprised by how much the jeans crocked, but luckily there was an added tag to the jeans explaining the intensity of the dye.

ADVERTISED FEATURES Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The jeans by Converse One Star advertised the fit of the jeans on two of the tags. The tag reads: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fit: Low Waist and Straight Hipâ&#x20AC;?. There is also a tag that says that the jeans are skinny jeans. This is a fairly typical advertisement for a pair of jeans considering many people shop jeans according to their style and fit. Like Converse One Star, Mossimo advertised the fit with two separate tags and the style with a third tag. However, in addition to the three tags, Mossimo also advertised the quality of the dye used. This tag says that the dye is strong, which insinuates that the jeans will not fade as quickly.

BRAND PRESENCE Converse One Star = 4 Mossimo =2 The brand presence for the jeans by Converse One Star was better than average. There was a patch on the back of the waistband with the Converse logo and there was also the logo on all of the rivets. The zipper also had a star, which is part of the Converse logo. The jeans by Mossimo only had the word Mossimo on the rivets and an “M” on the button.

Converse One Star – Brand Presence

Mossimo – Brand Presence

NOTICEABLE FLAWS Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =2 The flaws in both pairs of jeans mainly consisted of the loose threads. However, the Mossimo jeans also had flaws in the seams of the inseam pockets. The Mossimo jeans also had much more loose threads than the Converse One Star pair.

YOKE Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =5 The yoke in the Mossimo pair of jeans was flat-felled and it was lined up perfectly. It was stitched very well and had no flaws whatsoever. The yoke in the jeans by Converse One Star was stitched somewhat unevenly, but was decent overall.

Converse One Star â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Yoke

Mossimo - Yoke

FADING / COLORING Converse One Star = 3 Mossimo =4 The jeans by Converse One Star had some fading, but it was not very noticeable. It was an average amount of fading and the fading was not intense at all. The jeans by Mossimo had a conservable amount of fading that was very obvious around the thigh and knees areas.

TARGET â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CONVERSE ONE STAR vs. MOSSIMO CONCLUSION Converse One Star = 92 / 150 Mossimo =104 / 150 After the in-depth analysis of the quality of the jeans from Mossimo, the private label, and Converse One Star, the national brand, we have found the two brands varied with their grades. Mossimo, the private label, won out of the two brands with one hundred and four points, or a 69.3%. The national brand, Converse One Star, had a grade of 61.3% with a ninety two total number of points. This demonstrates that the premonition that national brands have higher quality than private labels is sometimes false.

DISCOUNT / MASS RETAILERS KOHL’S – LEE vs. LC LAUREN CONRAD

**REPLACE W/ KOHL’S PAGE FILE!!!**

KOHL’S – TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………..………………….….…………….….…..………………99 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #3………………….………………………….…………100 CONTENT CATEGORIES FOR GRADING 1. Fiber Content………………………………………………………………….………………………………101 2. Weight of Fabric……………………………………………….…………………….………………………101 3. Stitch Length…………………………………………….…………………………………………………….102 4. Stitch Strength………………………………..…….………………………………………………………..102 5. Stitch Type……………………………………………………………………………………………………..103 6. Seam Finish……………………………………….……………………………………………………………104 7. Price Point……………………………………………...………………………………………………………104 8. Purchase Price…………………………………………….………………………………………………….105 9. Button Closure……………………..………………………………………………………………………..105 10. Zipper Type…………………………………………………………………………………………….………106 11. Zipper Strength………………………………..…………………………………………………………….106 12. Hems………………………………………..…………………….………………………………………………107 13. Pocket Types………………………………………………………….……………………………………….107 14. Pocket Strength……………………………………………..……………………………………………….108 15. Pocket Sizes…………………………….………………………...…………………………………………..108 16. Pocket Lining…………………………….……………………….……………………………………………109 17. Rivets………………………………………………….………………………………………………………….109 18. Bar Tacks……………………………………………………..…………………………………………………110 19. Belt Loops………………………………………………………….……………………………………………110 20. Thread Color…………………………………………….……….……………………………………………111 21. Thread Defects……………………………………………….………………………………………………111 22. Decorative Features………………………………………….…….………………………………………112 23. Tags…………………………………………………….………………………………………………………….112 24. Care Label…………………………………………….………………………………………………………..113 25. Crocking Test………………………………………….………………………………………………………114 26. Advertised Features……………………………………………………….……………………………….115 27. Brand Presence…………………………………………………….…………………………………………116 28. Noticeable Flaws……………………………………………………….……………………………………116 29. Yoke..……………………..………………………………………………………………………………………117 30. Fading / Coloring………………………………………………….……………………..………………….117 CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………..…………………...…………………………………118

KOHL’S – LEE vs. LC LAUREN CONRAD INTRODUCTION The second discount / mass retailer we visited was Kohl’s. This is a store that initially boasted carrying national brands for less. However, in recent years they have established themselves as something more. Offering many successful private labels by well-known designers and celebrities has allowed Kohl’s to remain a household name with a competitive edge. We will be comparing pairs of women’s denim jeans by Lee (national brand) and LC Lauren Conrad (private label). Lauren Conrad is a reality TV star. MTV’s “The Hills” featured her adventures in Los Angeles as an aspiring designer. After searching the contemporary women’s department at our local Kohl’s, these two pairs of dark wash denim were the most similar jeans we could find. The pages hereafter will be an extensive breakdown of quality analysis concerning Lee’s “Slender Secret Bootcut” vs. LC Lauren Conrad’s “The Slim Boot.” We’ll be able to determine which brand offers the pair of jeans with the greatest value, as price will be examined among the 30 content categories for our grading purposes.

National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #3 KOHL’S WOMEN’S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

NATIONAL LEE 4 3 4 3 4 3 3 4 3 5 5 3 5 5 5 4 5 5 3 4 2 3 4 3 2 4 4 2 3 3 110/150 73.3% 3.7 2

PRIVATE LC LAUREN CONRAD 5 4 3 4 3 2 2 3 5 5 3 3 5 5 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 4 3 4 1 5 3 2 4 4 113/150 75.3% 3.8 1

**LC Lauren Conrad (private label) scored 3 points higher than Lee (national brand).

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FIBER CONTENT Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 Though both brands are a blend of cotton and spandex, they differ slightly. The Lee jeans are 98% cotton and 2% spandex, while the LC Lauren Conrad pair is 99% cotton and 1% spandex. More stretch isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always better. Jeans can stretch out over time and lose their shape after a few wears.

WEIGHT OF FABRIC Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 More noticeable than the fiber content difference is the feel of each pair of jeans. As expected, the Lee jeans have a familiar texture and density. However, the LC Lauren Conrad pair felt surprisingly rough and thick. We wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have guessed that the fashion brand to appear more durable.

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STITCH LENGTH Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 Considering that the average stitch per inch in garments is between 7 – 14 inches, sets an evaluation standard. Lee outperformed LC Lauren Conrad this time with 9 stitches per inch. Meanwhile, the latter pair falls somewhat lower within the average range at 8 stitches per inch.

STITCH STRENGTH Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Though their inseams and side seams are both serged, Lee didn’t put forth any extra effort in reinforcing their stitch work along the inseams. What sets the LC Lauren Conrad jeans apart is the addition of a second row of stitches along the inseam—an extra chainstitch below the safety stitch. They also feature two rows of stitches where the waistband joins the yoke in comparison to Lee’s single row of stitches there.

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STITCH TYPE Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 Both brands feature 300, 400 and 500-class stitches. In particular, these stitches appear as follows: 

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301 Lockstitch o Lee  Hems  Scoop curve of front pockets o LC Lauren Conrad  Hems  Scoop curve of front pockets  Top of patch pockets  Pocket lining 401 Two-thread Chainstitch o Lee  Waistband  Yoke  Top of patch pockets o LC Lauren Conrad  Waistband  Yoke 402 Cording Stitch for Permanent Creases o Lee  Belt loops  Zipper application o LC Lauren Conrad  Belt loops 500-class Safety Stitch o Lee  Pocket lining  Inseams  Side seams o LC Lauren Conrad  Zipper application  Inseams  Side seams

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SEAM FINISH Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 2 It was disappointing to find that neither brand utilized flat-felled seams in the inseams of these pairs of jeans. However, they did appear other places that require the benefit of added strength. In the Lee jeans, flat-felled seams were used to attach the yoke to the back panel and split the back panel to the crotch area. The only place flat-felled seam appeared in the LC Lauren Conrad pair were to attach the yoke to the back panel, while mock flat-felled lapped seams split the back panel to the crotch area. Lee also made use of mock flat-felled lapped seams, but rather in the zipper application.

PRICE POINT Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 2 Concerning price point, Lee seems to set a compromise between the high and low ends, hovering around the $40 range. LC Lauren Conrad comes in at the low end of the high end at $50+. As far as the actual price of each pair of jeans, Lee was marked at $36.99 (Kohlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s price) with a manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suggested retail price of $42. The LC Lauren Conrad pair was marked at a straightforward $54.

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PURCHASE PRICE Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 It’s rare to buy something for full price at Kohl’s, as everything is almost always discounted to some extent. Likewise, both pairs of jeans were on sale. We purchased the Lee pair for $27.99 ($9 reduction, 24% off) and the LC Lauren Conrad jeans for $35.10 ($18.90 reduction, 35% off). The purchase price ended up putting each pair in a lower price point than initially discussed. Lee was now below $30, while the LC Lauren Conrad pair was taking up residence in Lee’s initial price point and a mere $1.89 less than Kohl’s original price for that brand.

BUTTON CLOSURE Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 Both brands have a high quality button closure than consists of a metal shank button and a keyhole buttonhole. They also have the correct buttonhole length. Each pair is nearly identical in this regard with a 1 inch buttonhole to accommodate a ¾ inch diameter button that is ¼ inch thick. However, where Lee fails is in the construction of their buttonhole, which contains frayed and loose threads. This just can’t compare to the LC Lauren Conrad pair, whose buttonhole has a clean opening.

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ZIPPER TYPE Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 To accompany their high quality button closures, both brands impress with YKK steel zippers. These are the strongest and most expensive zippers available. This choice on behalf of Lee and LC Lauren Conrad ensures a long life is possible for their jeans.

ZIPPER STRENGTH Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 Most jeans have a fly zipper application, which is ideal. However, this is where LC Lauren Conrad falls short. Upon close inspection, we noticed that the fly zipper application was sewn in crooked. This will create problems over time, causing the zipper to eventually perform slower and with increased difficulty. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to note that we have yet to encounter any performance issues.

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HEMS Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 Both brands feature standard double-fold hems. Each pair had hem widths of a Â˝ inch. In this aspect, there is no difference between the Lee and LC Lauren Conrad jeans.

POCKET TYPES Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 Like zipper type and hems, these jeans by Lee and LC Lauren Conrad have nearly identical pockets. Both pairs are standard 5-pocket jeans with 2 in-seam scoop pockets and 1 watch pocket in the front, as well as 2 patch pockets on the back.

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POCKET STRENGTH Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 This is yet another area where this is no difference between brands. Both Lee and LC Lauren Conrad ensure pocket strength by using metal rivets to secure their front pockets and bar tacks to secure their back pockets.

POCKET SIZES Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Concerning pocket size, we were able to comfortably fit our hands in all five of the pockets on the Lee jeans, while this applied to only four of the pockets on the LC Lauren Conrad pair. It was surprising to find that Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watch pocket could accommodate our hands, as well as our cell phones. The watch pocket for LC Lauren Conrad was just wide enough to fit two fingers. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth noting that the Lee pockets were roomier in general, promoting function over fashion.

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POCKET LINING Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 When it comes to pocket linings, Lee focused more on function by utilizing oxford with serged edges. This is above average for withstanding wear and tear, but less desirable if fashion is a determinant of quality. The LC Lauren Conrad jeans included pocket linings with a print of a Los Angeles street map. In addition, French seams were used to enclose the edges. These features signify higher craftsmanship and cost.

RIVETS Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 The Lee jeans included five metal rivets, as did the LC Lauren Conrad pair. Of the latter, only four of these were used to secure pockets, while the remaining rivet was used to attach a gold ribbon to the back of the waistband for aesthetic effect. While copper rivets adorned Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans purposefully even reinforcing the watch pocket, LC Lauren Conradâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were decorated with lightweight and cheap looking gold colored rivets.

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BAR TACKS Lee = 5 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 Though the LC Lauren Conrad jeans included five more bar tacks than the Lee pair, both were utilized in the same wayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to secure front scoop pockets to the side seams, as well as belt loops to the waistband and patch pockets to the back panel. Lee featured a total of 16 bar tacks, while LC Lauren Conrad racked up an impressive total of 21 due to their double belt loop construction.

BELT LOOPS Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Concerning belt loops, both brands featured five with two in the front and three in the back. Of these, the LC Lauren Conrad pair contained three double loops at the front and center back, the greatest pressure points around the waistband.

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THREAD COLOR Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 As for thread color, Lee went with subtle contrast stitching by selecting a lighter and brighter shade of blue. This is most noticeable up close, which lead us to believe that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intended to be a fashion detail without the risk of being too distracting. LC Lauren Conrad, on the other hand, chose to match their thread color to the same shade of indigo as their fabric.

THREAD DEFECTS Lee = 2 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Even before reaching this stage of evaluation, we were shocked at the presence of loose threads plaguing the Lee jeans. They were mostly located around the seams attaching the waistband to the yoke, along with the seams attaching the pockets to either the back panel or side seams. Though none of them broke or unraveled when pulled, it should not be the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s responsibility to snip excess threads when purchasing a ready-to-wear garment. In comparison, the LC Lauren Conrad pair looked almost perfect, though we did notice some loose threads surrounding the bar tack that secured the center back belt loop to the waistband.

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DECORATIVE FEATURES Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Both brands were characterized by decorative stitching, exclusive to the back pockets. Lee featured a simple and singular curvy horizontal line of contrasting gold thread. LC Lauren Conrad once again displayed craftsmanship and cost by integrating a series of diagonal pin tucks, which added an element of texture. To keep it consistent, the same indigo thread was used as earlier evaluated throughout the entire garment.

TAGS Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 The Lee jeans include an embroidered tag depicting their brand name and style attached inside the center back of the waistband. The LC Lauren Conrad pair is tagless. Instead, these jeans include an embroidered â&#x20AC;&#x153;LCâ&#x20AC;? logo alongside their brand name, which is screen printed directly on the inside of the waistband. Though this method may appear more aesthetic to some consumers, it is significantly more time efficient and cost effective.

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CARE LABEL Lee = 3 LC Lauren Conrad = 4 Regarding the care label and instructions, Lee includes the standard “machine wash cold with like colors / tumble dry low / low iron” that can be found in almost any predominantly cotton garment that has been dyed. The care label is typical—a tag attached to the seam joining the waistband and front pocket lining. LC Lauren Conrad goes a step further to communicate the care their dark wash denim requires. Like Lee, they include a typical care label with similar instructions, except that it is attached as a patch to the front pocket lining and begins with instructions to “wash inside out.” Another addition is the removable tag they include on the outside which further warns customers about the risk of color bleeding: “Please wash garment according to care label instructions prior to wearing. The deep rich color of this garment is achieved by using special dyes, and may transfer to other surfaces when worn.”

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CROCKING TEST Lee = 2 LC Lauren Conrad = 1 We conducted a simple crocking test by rubbing our fingers on the jeans, as well as a white piece of paper. Though no dye rubbed off on our fingers, the paper indicated definite signs of crocking for both brands. The results for Lee were slight enough that color bleeding would most likely only occur during the initial washing. However, LC Lauren Conradâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s results showed a significant amount of crocking. There is no doubt these jeans would bleed indigo when wet, as per their warning tag.

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ADVERTISED FEATURES Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 5 It’s obvious that Lee wants to inform customers about this style of jeans and what they believe to be special about them through their extensive use of multiple removable tags and stickers. These methods are used to promote their “fit innovations” through words—“lower on the waist / bootcut / ultra stretch / retains its shape all day”—and pictures showing the side / back view of a woman modeling this style. LC Lauren Conrad takes a different approach. Though removable tags are used for information purposes, this brand promotes “fashion denim” and the opportunities that come with that: “Flattering and forever fashionable, this jean’s stretch and slight flare make it so versatile. I wear mine with anything from a tank and platform heels to a peasant top and flats,” while alleviating any anxiety a customer might have about how to incorporate this pair of jeans into their current wardrobe. To complete this personal touch, Lauren’s signature is printed directly below her words of styling wisdom.

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BRAND PRESENCE Lee = 4 LC Lauren Conrad = 3 Though Lee’s name appears one less time (7 vs. 8) than LC Lauren Conrad on their respective pairs of jeans, Lee’s jeans have a stronger brand presence. Both brands display either their name (Lee) or logo (LC) on all metal hardware—rivets and buttons. Lauren Conrad’s name appears twice on her button, in a circular pattern encompassing her “LC” logo. However, the Lee jeans contain a small ½ logo patch sewn onto the hem of the watch pocket. This is the only brand indicator that can be seen from a distance.

NOTICEABLE FLAWS Lee = 2 LC Lauren Conrad = 2 Unfortunately, neither brand was exempt from flaws. As mentioned previously, the Lee jeans were stricken with a frayed buttonhole and loose threads, while the LC Lauren Conrad pair was negatively characterized by a crooked fly zipper application. Upon further inspection, we noticed Lee had sloppy stitches in both hems of tangled threads that had been topstitched down. As well, fraying at the edges of the back pockets and along the outer seam around the bar tack could be found on the LC Lauren Conrad jeans.

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KOHL’S - LEE vs. LC LAUREN CONRAD CONCLUSION Lee = 110 / 150 LC Lauren Conrad = 113 / 150 Though the Lee and LC Lauren Conrad jeans had their differences, the gap between their total scores is almost nonexistent. We were surprised that they performed so similarly—with the private brand only scoring 3 points more. The average grade for Lee was 3.7 in comparison to LC Lauren Conrad at 3.8. Lee’s advantages included zipper strength, pocket sizes and rivets, while the LC Lauren Conrad jeans could a superior fiber content, button closure, pocket lining, thread color and advertised features. However, both brands possessed equally ideal zipper types, pocket types, pocket strength and bar tacks. We were surprised to discover that LC Lauren Conrad jeans were made just as well as Lee’s— and moreso impressed by the balance of fashion and function they provided, ranking high among both types of criteria. Overall, the LC Lauren Conrad jeans offered more value than we would have expected.

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SPECIALTY STORE BUCKLE – DREAM DIVA vs. BKE

**REPLACE W/ BUCKLE PAGE FILE!!!**

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BUCKLE – TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………..………………….….…………….….…..….…………122 National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #4………………….………………………….…………123 CONTENT CATEGORIES FOR GRADING 1. Fiber Content………………………………………………………………….………………………………124 2. Weight of Fabric…………………………………………………….……………….………………………124 3. Stitch Length…………………………………………….…………………………………………………….125 4. Stitch Strength………………………………..…….………………………………………………………..125 5. Stitch Type……………………………………………………………………………………………………..126 6. Seam Finish……………………………………………………………….……………………………………126 7. Price Point………………………………………………..…………….………………………………………127 8. Purchase Price……………………………………………………………….……………………………….127 9. Button Closure……………………..………………………………………………………………………..128 10. Zipper Type…………………………………………………………………………………………….………128 11. Zipper Strength………………………………..…………………………………………………………….129 12. Hems………………………………………..………………….…………………………………………………129 13. Pocket Types………………………………………………………….……………………………………….130 14. Pocket Strength……………………………………………..……………………………………………….130 15. Pocket Sizes…………………………….……………………………………………………………………..131 a. Photographs…………………………………..……….……………………………………….131 16. Pocket Lining…………………………….…………………………….………………………………………132 a. Photographs………………………………...………………………………………………….132 17. Rivets………………………………………………….………………………………………………………….133 a. Photographs…………………………………………………………………………………….133 18. Bar Tacks……………………………………………………..…………………………………………………134 19. Belt Loops……………………………………………………….………………………………………………134 20. Thread Color…………………………………………….………….…………………………………………135 21. Thread Defects………………………………………………….……………………………………………135 22. Decorative Features………………………………………….……….……………………………………136 23. Tags……………………………………………………….……………………………………………………….137 a. Photographs…………………………………...……………………………………………….137 24. Care Label……………………………………………….……………………………………………………..138 25. Crocking Test………………………………………….………………………………………………………138 26. Advertised Features…………………………………………………….………………………………….139 27. Brand Presence………………………………………….……………………………………………………140 a. Photographs…………………………………………………………………………………….140 28. Noticeable Flaws…………………………………………………………….………………………………141 29. Yoke..……………………..………………………………………………………………………………………141

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30. Fading / Coloring……………………………………………………….………………..………………….142 CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………….….……………...…………………………………143

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BUCKLE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; DREAM DIVA vs. BKE INTRODUCTION The fourth store we chose was the Buckle. This is a smaller specialty store that only carries a small amount of certain brands of jeans. We evaluated their national brand jean, which was the Dream Diva and their private brand jean, which was BKE. The Dream Diva is a dark wash denim trouser leg mostly seen to display the curves of a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s body. The BKE private brand is a Brooke skinny jean that most women can wear that will show off their legs in the right way. These jeans were the most similar in wash and style that we could find in the Buckle store. The remainder of this portion of the paper will be used to analyze the similarities and differences in these two pairs of jeans. By looking at 30 different categories we will be able to determine which jean is the better overall buy when it comes to this product.

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National Brand vs. Private Label Report Card #4 WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S JEANS CONTENT CATEGORIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

BUCKLE NATIONAL PRIVATE DREAM DIVA BKE 4 4 4 4 3 3 4 4 3 3 4 3 1 2 4 4 2 2 5 5 5 4 3 4 5 5 4 4 5 5 5 5 4 5 3 5 4 3 5 5 3 4 4 5 5 4 3 2 1 2 4 4 4 5 3 4 5 3 3 4 112/150 116/150 74.7% 77.3% 3.7 3.9 2 1

**BKE (private label) scored 4 points higher than Dream Diva (national brand).

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FIBER CONTENT Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 Both jeans have different fiber content than one another and the percentages of fiber content are also very different, the BKE private brand has 99% cotton and 1% spandex content while the Dream Diva has a 70% cotton and 30% flasterfil content. While looked at these differences we can see that the BKE brand with not stretch as much due to the amount of spandex and will not wear as long. The Dream Diva has a better ratio of fiber therefore the jeans will be able to be worn much longer and there is a good amount of stretch in the jean so they wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be as tight or stiff to the body.

WEIGHT OF FABRIC Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 Each pair of jean had a very heavy weight. The textures were also very similar when looking at the jeans and feeling them showing that each brand shows good quality with good durability. Also both pairs of jeans show that the weight of the fabric will last through many washes, so both pairs of the jeans have a long wear for the consumer.

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STITCH LENGTH Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 3 Each pair of jean has about the same amount of stitches per inch. On the BKE jean there are 15 stitches per inch where in the Dream Diva jean there are 18 stitches per inch.

STITCH STRENGTH Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 Each jean has a mock felled in-seam which is like a flat felled in-seam but not as strong. Without having a flat felled in-seam the jean will not wear as long and it will tear apart more easily. On the yokes there are 400 category stitches which give each of the jeans more strength.

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STITCH TYPE Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 3 Both of the jeans have the normal sets of stitches throughout the jean. There are 300 stitches on the hems on the jeans which are not as strong or thick of the other categories. There are also 400 stitches on the back pockets where there will be more abrasion and where the consumer will put more force.

SEAM FINISH Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 3 On the Dream Diva jean there are flat felled seams on the yoke, in-seam and on the inside seam of the thigh. This gives the jean more strength and will give the jean a longer wear. On the BKE jean there are serge seams on the in-seam which are not as strong but a flat felled seam on the hem of the jean. There is also a flat felled seam on the yoke but with the serge seam on parts of the jean this does not make the jean as strong as the Dream Diva.

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PRICE POINT Dream Diva = 1 BKE = 2 Most of the BKE jean ran for a price around $70-$80 dollars. For being a store that only carries specific private brands of jeans and not very many national brands this is in the expensive price range. The Dream Diva jean ran from $80-$100 dollars. This is more expensive than the private brand and is definitely more on the pricey side for a pair of jeans since these jeans are national and can be bought in other stores. By having the more expensive national brand jean this allows customers to see the difference in prices and buy the private brand of jean from the Buckle.

PURCHASE PRICE Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 When purchasing each of the pairs of jeans from the Buckle, we were able to buy both on sale. The BKE was $39.97 while the Dream Diva was $59.97. Both pairs of jeans were discounted significantly, between $15- $30 dollars less. This was an extreme difference from the original price of each jean or even the price point. Again the private brand was cheaper than the national brand.

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BUTTON CLOSURE Dream Diva = 2 BKE = 2 While neither one of the brands had great button closure the Dream Diva did close easier than the BKE. Both jeans have buttons that are too big for the keyhole button loop making it difficult to close the jean. While you are able to close the Dream Diva button more smoothly the BKE button takes a little more work. Each pair also has a frayed button hole showing that the manufacturer did not take this into consideration when making the jean for the consumer.

ZIPPER TYPE Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 5 Each of the jeans have YKK zippers which are the most durable and expensive zipper that manufacturers can put on a garment. With this type of zipper the fly zipper on the jean will last longer and will give the consumer a longer wear.

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ZIPPER STRENGTH Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 4 Both of the zippers on the jeans were YKK which mean that they are very strong and very durable. With that being said the Dream Diva jeans had a longer zipper with more steel teeth making it easier to zip the jean. The BKE did not have as long as a zipper so the teeth would sometimes get caught on the inside seam and made it more difficult to zip the jean. After zipping and re zipping the two different jeans the BKE brand just became more of a hassle because it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as long as the Dream Diva and would get caught in the seam of the fly zipper.

HEMS Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 4 Both jeans had a folded hem but different sizes for each jean. The BKE had about a half of an inch hem whereas the Dream Diva had about an inch hem. The only difference with the Dream Diva is that the hem is much more noticeable and since the fold is a lot wider than the BKE then it is easier to see. The width of the two hems was the only difference on the two garments.

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POCKET TYPES Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 5 For the Dream Diva jean and the BKE jean there are patch pockets on the back of the jean and simple in-seam scoop pockets on the front. There is also a watch pocket located on the inside of the in-seam scoop pocket on the front. These give the jean a simple and modern look.

POCKET STRENGTH Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 For all of the pockets located on the jean they are very thin and not very thick. This is understandable when it comes to these jeans with a certain style but they do not seem like they are able to withhold a lot of strength. For each jean the back pockets are very easy to pull away from the butt of the jean and in the front in-seam pocket a small tug shows that they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t very durable.

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POCKET SIZES Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 5 The pocket sizes in each of the different brands of jeans were about the same size. I was able to fit my hand into the whole pocket in the front and back for each jean. This shows that a consumer would be able to fit anything in the pockets that were about as big a hand. This also gives the consumer a comfortable fit for the jeans.

Dream Diva â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Size

BKE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Size

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POCKET LINING Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 5 In each pair of the jeans they both had decorative pocket lining on the inside of the jean. Each jean had a unique pattern that gave the garment a spark of unique style. Even though you are not able to see it unless you take off the jean, the decorative patterns give the jean an extra touch of style.

Dream Diva â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Lining

BKE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pocket Lining

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RIVETS Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 5 Compared to each other the BKE jean had more rivets than the Dream Diva jean. Having rivets in a jean reinforces the pockets and seams. Since the BKE brand has more rivets this shows that the seams and the pockets will wear longer than what they will on the Dream Diva jean. Rivets are not only used for reinforcement but also for an aesthetic appeal to the buyer.

Dream Diva â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Rivets

BKE - Rivets

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BAR TACKS Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 5 Each pair of jean had the normal amount of bar tacks needed for a denim jean. The Dream Diva did not have the stronger of the stitches like the BKE brand did. Bar tacks help reinforce areas of high stress such as pockets, zippers, and belt loops. They both had the bar tacks which will help the jean when it comes to wearing and re-wearing the jean.

BELT LOOPS Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 3 Both of the brands of jeans have five belt loops around the waist of the garment. The difference is that the Dream Diva brand has a wider belt loop than the BKE brand which makes it easier for the consumer to run a belt through. With a wider belt loop a consumer is also able to choose different belt sizes to go with the jean, which gives them different style options. The belt loops are also strong enough that the tugging from the belt will not rip the loop.

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THREAD COLOR Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 5 The jeans both had thread color that fit with the dark wash of the jeans. The thread is not very noticeable and blends well with the different colors and textures of the jean. Since each pair of jean had dark thread that matched with the jean they were both given a grade of five.

THREAD DEFECTS Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 4 While each jean had some defects when it came to the thread, the Dream Diva was more noticeable after the jeans were analyzed. There was thread coming out of the patch pockets in the back and on the waistband. There were also some defects on the seams of the pockets. This is unacceptable for the product and does not show it in a positive light. The BKE jeans also had some defects but on the inside of the belt loops and on the inside of the pockets as well. This does not help when trying to sell the product and advises the customer to not buy it because it shows it was not made properly.

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DECORATIVE FEATURES Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 5 Each pair of the jeans has a fair amount of decorative stitching on them. There is decorative stitching on the back pockets that give the jean a unique look. There is also some decorative stitching on the inside of the waistband and at the seams of the jean. By adding decorative stitching it gives the item a more fashionable style.

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TAGS Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 4 On the pair of Dream Diva jean the tags were all sewn into the waistband. This gives the jean a more unique and fashionable look. It also gives the wearer more comfort when they are wearing the jean because the tags will not rub on the skin. On the BKE brand the tags were stitched to the side of the seam just like any other regular jeans. There was also one stitched to the back of the jean. These tags are just like any other normal pair of jeans showing that the brand does not put a lot of extra touches on things like tags. The tags looked normal and not very unique to the Dream Diva tags.

Dream Diva â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tags

BKE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tags

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CARE LABEL Dream Diva =3 BKE =2 The care tag on the Dream Diva jean was just like any other care label on a garment. The directions were clear and easy to read. There was not unnecessary information, just straight forward and simple. The BKE brand care label was scored lower because it was much harder to see and the wording on the care label was difficult to read. The care label for BKE was printed on a pattern fabric which made it harder to see where the Dream Diva had a plain white care label, making it easier for the consumer to read.

CROCKING TEST Dream Diva = 1 BKE = 2 After performing the crocking test each jean did not do very well. While each pair had dye that came off, the Dream Diva had significantly more dye than the BKE brand did. They both were not colorfasted appropriately and this shows that dye will definitely come off when the jean is first washed. Also if you do not wash them and wear them right away, then there is a possibility dye will come off on your skin if you get them wet. This does not show the jean or the brand in a positive way.

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ADVERTISED FEATURES Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 4 Each jean had a fair amount of advertised features on them but the BKE private brand had more. There was a patch on the back of the waistline with the BKE logo on it and also many tags that had the BKE logo. Another thing that the BKE brand had was the BKE on the button closure on the front of the pant. This shows that the brand does put a lot of effort into advertising there brand to the fullest. The Dream Diva had tags that had the Dream Diva logo but nothing else that stood out like the BKE brand had.

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BRAND PRESENCE Dream Diva = 4 BKE = 5 Each brand presented itself on the jean through tags which gave information about the jean style and brand. They also had signs in the store about each brand which gave the customer an idea about what the store sold. The website also had each jean logo on it to show customers what brands they sold in the stores.

Dream Diva â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Brand Presence

BKE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Brand Presence

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NOTICEABLE FLAWS Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 4 The only noticeable flaws on each jean were the fraying in certain spots on the jean. There was fraying from the button closure and on the belt loops of the jeans. There was also some from stitches sticking out of the inside of the back pocket. These noticeable flaws gave the jeans a disheveled look which did not present the brand well.

YOKE Dream Diva = 5 BKE = 3 After looking at the yokes on the jeans each pair had a yoke which will give the jean strength and a comfortable wear. The yoke on the BKE was misaligned with the seam connecting the yoke, so this was given a lower score than the Dream Diva. The Dream Diva had a normal yoke that was aligned with all of the seams and shows that it has good strength.

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FADING / COLORING Dream Diva = 3 BKE = 4 The Dream Diva jean had no coloring or fading. This showed that the denim was produced well but there were no extra features that gave the jean a unique look or style. The BKE brand had some color fading on the front of the pant that looked like whisking. This color fading on the front gave the jean a unique style and feature that most jeans do not possess.

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BUCKLE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; DREAM DIVA vs. BKE CONCLUSION Dream Diva = 112 / 150 BKE = 116 / 150 After grading each pair of jean, they both came very close at the end with the total scores. The national jean, the Dream Diva had a score of 112 and the private brand, BKE had a score of 116. As you can see each jean was very close at the end. The jeans did not differ in a lot of categories; they were both very much alike. A few of the categories they differed in were the price point, care label, bar tacks, and belt loops. These differences added to why the scores were very close in the total score. After grading and analyzing each jean the better quality jean was the private brand, BKE. Overall the BKE jean performed better in all of the tests and in the end had the higher score. The private brand was manufactured with better quality and with the consumer in mind. The BKE jean was the best jean out of the two and a better purchase out of the two brands of jeans. I would advise any customer to buy the BKE jean because it is worth the money and the jean will last the consumer a longer time. The private brand BKE is the better jean.

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NATIONAL BRANDS vs. PRIVATE LABELS OF WOMEN’S JEANS CONCLUSION We never would have guessed that the private labels would outperform their national brand competitors in every store we shopped for women’s jeans. It was also alarming to see a pair of Levi’s come in last place, when we had all perceived that brand to be one of quality construction. The purchase price of the jeans we examined fell into either the mid-price point tier of $36 $49 or the lower tier of $21 - $35. Interestingly enough, the top 3 scoring jeans had original prices within the two highest price point tiers, spanning from $50 - $100+. However, they were also significantly discounted to the point that price was no longer a competitive advantage for the lower quality and lower priced jeans, which were national brands in 2 of these 3 instances. Getting better quality jeans for a better price is exactly the kind of value that women would want when shopping for jeans—especially if they expect them to last.

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APPENDIX GRAPHS, INTERVIEWS & SURVEY RESULTS **REPLACE W/ APPENDIX PAGE FILE!!!**

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TOTAL SCORES BY STORE & BRAND

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NATIONAL BRAND vs. PRIVATE LABEL 150

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100

0 Macy’s

Target

National Brand

Kohl’s

Buckle

Private Label

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NATIONAL BRAND vs. PRIVATE LABEL 150

125

100

0 Macy’s

Target

National Brands

Kohl’s

Buckle

Private Labels

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INTERVIEW – WOMEN’S JEANS AT MACY’S Allison Miller, Sales Associate in Junior’s department at Macy’s Q: Which brand sells more, American Rag or Levi’s? A: American Rag sells more for sure.

Q: Do you notice a difference between who buys which brand? A: No, not particularly.

Q: Which one is better in your opinion? Why? A: In my opinion, American Rag is the better brand of jeans. They just fit better than Levi’s do, but I don’t know why.

Q: Which brand has more variety? A: Levi’s definitely offers more variety.

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INTERVIEW – WOMEN’S JEANS AT TARGET Shyai Laubscher, Target Consumer Q: Based on appearance only, which jeans of the two [Converse One Star or Mossimo] do you prefer? A: I prefer the jeans to the left [Mossimo].

Q: What was the deciding factor in choosing this pair of jeans? A: I liked the darker wash and the wider leg. I also think these jeans have an overall better appearance.

Q: What don’t you like about the jeans [Converse One Star] that you did not choose? A: I did not like the embellishments on the pockets.

Q: Without looking at the brand, which jeans would you believe to be the national brand [Converse One Star] and which ones do you think are a private label [Mossimo] ? A: I think the jeans that I chose [Mossimo] are the national brand and the other jeans [Converse One Star] are by the private label.

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Q: What makes you think this? A: The fact that these jeans [Mossimo] look better.

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INTERVIEW – WOMEN’S JEANS AT KOHL’S Lindsay Baron, Indiana University Graduate Q: Have you ever bought jeans at Kohl's? If so, how long ago? Otherwise, why not? A: No. There isn't a Kohl's near me in downtown Chicago, plus I don't know if I'd like the style/quality there.

Q: Where do you usually buy jeans? A: H&M, Anthropologie, and sometimes the Gap.

Q: How much would you expect to pay for jeans? A: $50-$175

Q: How much would you be willing to pay for jeans? A: $50-$175

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Q: Are you more concerned with quality or price? A: Quality!

Q: What do you look for in jeans? A: Fit, cut, dye -- if they look quality made or not.

Q: Have you ever worn Lee jeans? If so, how long ago? Otherwise, why not? A: Ha, in middle school but not since! Living in downtown Chicago, I don't even know where I'd find a pair near me.

Q: Are you familiar with Lauren Conrad or her clothing line? What would you assume to be the quality and price of her jeans? A: Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m familiar with LC and know that she has a clothing line at Kohl's, but don't know the quality. I'd assume her jeans might be $30.

Q: When it comes to jeans, how brand loyal are you? What brands do you prefer and why? A: Not brand loyal, though I recently discovered an expensive but super soft brand of jeans sold at Anthropologie called Joe's that I've had my eye on.

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Q: Would you be more likely to buy jeans with a higher quality and higher price (ex, $54) than a similar pair for less (ex, $37) ? A: Yes, I would be willing to pay more for quality. At the end of the day, the jeans that look and fit better on my body type are the ones I go with.

Q: Do you consider jeans to be an investment piece? How often do you buy jeans? What kind of life expectancy do you want for your jeans? A: Yes, I definitely consider jeans an investment since I wear them 5 - 6 days / week. I would expect a quality pair of jeans to look nice for two years, given how often I wear them. They'd look out of style after a couple years anyway.

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INTERVIEW – WOMEN’S JEANS AT BUCKLE Arielle Brown, Indiana University Sophomore

Q: Where do you usually buy your jeans from—a specialty store, department store, or a discount store? A: I usually buy my jeans from specialty stores, like Forever 21 or American Eagle.

Q: What’s your favorite style of jeans? Why? A: My favorite jeans style is skinny jeans because I’m much taller than other girls so they make me look leaner and are easier to find in my size.

Q: Have you ever shopped at the Buckle? A: Yes

Q: Have you ever worn their private brand BKE? If not, what brand have you worn from there? A: I have not worn that brand before, but I have worn the MissMe brand from there.

Q: Did you like that brand of jeans from the Buckle? If so, why? A: Yes I did. They were very comfortable and fit me very well. They were a nice pair of jeans that I could wear with a lot of tops.

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Q: Do you think the price was reasonable? How much did they cost? A: Yes, for me I think the price was reasonable maybe not for people that can’t afford that price for jeans, but I was willing to pay that much. They only cost me $70, and I don’t think that’s too much for a pair of jeans these days.

Q: Would you recommend these jeans to other women? Why or why not? A: Yes, I would recommend these jeans to other women because I think the style is very in fashion right now, and they lasted me a long time. Also, they were comfortable and reasonably priced. I usually never buy jeans for $80 or more, so this was a good pair of jeans that weren’t too expensive, something I could wear a lot, and that fit me well.

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SURVEY RESULTS We created an eight question survey via www.surveymonkey.com concerning quality and price perceptions women have when purchasing jeansâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and choosing which stores to shop at and which brands to buy. This allowed us to gauge shopping habits and beliefs of our friends regarding the stores and brands we analyzed for this project. The survey was compiled on Sunday, April 25th. Within 6 hours, 63 women participated anonymously. Included in the following pages is a list of our questions accompanied by pie graphs reflecting the data we collected for each one.

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1. Where do you shop for jeans?

2. Do you prefer fading on your jeans?

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3. Which brand of jeans would you buy?

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4. Which brand has the highest perceived quality?

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5. Which brand of jeans are you least familiar with?

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6. Which brand of jean are you most familiar with?

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7. Which store would you have shopped at for a pair of jeans?

8. Which price point do you shop for jeans?

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BIBLIOGRAPHY Baron, L. (2001, April 23rd). Indiana University Graduate. (L. Martin, Interviewer) Brown, A. (2011, April 21st). Indiana University Student. (T. Maloy, Interviewer) Laubscher, S. (2011, April 21st). Target Consumer. (L. Schneider, Interviewer) McDonald, K. (2011, April 25th). R204 Survey (Girls Only) . Retrieved April 25th, 2011, from Survey Monkey: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/FGFLLLH Miller, A. (2011, April 23rd). Sales Associate in the Junior's department at Macy's. (K. McDonald, Interviewer) Rice, P. B. (2001). Ready-To-Wear Apparel Analysis. Upper Saddle River, New Jersey: PrenticeHall, Inc.

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