A taste of the Raj in the Himalayas by LawCrossing

1. 800. 973.1177

LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

A taste of the Raj in the Himalayas [by Joan Scobey] Dawdle over breakfast on the slate terrace of Wildflower Hall, only a low stone wall planted with rosy geraniums between you and a wide-screen Himalayan panorama rolling out to distant, snow-covered summits. You are at eye level with these craggy peaks in India’s northern hill country, higher than the eagles wheeling through the crisp air. If you feel a bit heady, chalk it up to the 8,250-foot altitude as well as the breathtaking setting.

Its towers

tually built on the footprint of Lord Kitchen-

massages and other holistic treatments

and turrets

er’s home. It is set on 22 acres of fragrant

based on Western and Asian therapies, swim

rising above

cedar and pine trees, adjacent to a 12,000-

laps in the heated indoor pool or loll in the

a steep,

acre preserve of dense evergreen forest that

outdoor infinity whirlpool and gaze at that

forested

shelters bear, langur monkeys, antelope and

blockbuster Himalayan view.

slope of

even hard-to-spot leopards. Look for traces of the authentic Raj in

the Middle Himalayas,

Though much taller than the original, Wild-

Shimla, where British colonials transplanted

Wildflower

flower Hall recalls colonial-era hill house

a bit of England for their summer comfort.

Hall is

architecture, from the slate-clad exterior and

The town spills down steep hills, with mul-

Oberoi

narrow iron balconies to its pitched roofs.

tistory houses stacked tightly in tiers on the

Hotel’s

Inside, teak floors, Oriental rugs, clubby

slopes. On top, the main road, The Mall, runs

homage to the Raj. Actually, it is barely five

chairs, green baize-covered game tables and

for about three miles, in the middle widening

years old, but its roots go back to 19th cen-

a portrait of Lord Kitchener himself over a

to a mile-long promenade called the Ridge.

tury colonial days when the British ruled In-

welcoming fireplace evoke the spirit of the

It is anchored at one end by the golden stone

dia and made the nearby town of Shimla the

Raj.

Christ Church and half-timbered public library, and at the other by the Tourist Office

summer capital. For six months every year from 1865 to 1947, the government fled the

Lord Kitch-

and Scandal Point, once the meeting place

steamy heat of the Indian capitals, first Cal-

ener would

for assignations and gossip-mongering.

cutta and then Delhi, for the Himalayas and

be proud. He

did the government’s business in the cool hill

might not

Along The

station of Shimla (then spelled Simla).

recognize

Mall are

the marble

handcrafts

Two of the famous names during the Raj, as

bathrooms,

and cafes,

the British colonial rule was called, were

satellite

wood-gabled

Lord Kitchener and Lord Curzon. When

television,

shops and

Kitchener arrived in Shimla in 1902 as India’s

DVD players and other high-tech amenities of

restaurants,

newly appointed commander-in-chief, Cur-

the 87-room, fully wired hotel, but surely he

a touristy pe-

zon was viceroy of India. They were soon em-

would appreciate the sporting opportunities

broiled in a military controversy and became

in this glorious mountain playground: river

with only hints of its glory days as a once-

bitter enemies. Curzon lived in the official

rafting, mountain biking, horseback riding,

stylish British shopping street. Below The

residence, Viceregal Lodge. Kitchener rented

tennis, ice skating and golf on rolling mead-

Mall, via steep alleys and stairways, are the

Wildflower Hall, a forested mountaintop

ows of a century-old course, not to mention

food markets and stalls of the lustier Indian

retreat 1,000 feet above Shimla so, the story

treks through terraced fields and villages

Lower Bazaar that Rudyard Kipling, who lived

goes, he could look down on Curzon.

and along forest trails edged with wild flow-

in Shimla for 14 years, described a century

ers and strawberries.

ago in “Kim.”

small hotel that replaced it, but the present

Too active for you? Hedonists can head for

“He led the horses below the main road into

Wildflower Hall stands on that same site, ac-

the Banyan Tree spa to sample ayurvedic

the lower Simla bazaar - the crowded rab-

destrian zone

Kitchener’s villa is long since gone, as is a

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1.800.973. 1177

LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

bit-warren that climbs up from the valley to

five nights, and includes deluxe room, a daily

ings, including tea with the Maharajah; (800)

the Town Hall at an angle of forty-five. A man

one-hour spa treatment and transfers from

999-1758, www.coxandkingsusa.com.

who knows his way there can defy all the po-

Shimla airport or train station. The Unforget-

lice of India’s summer capital, so cunningly

table Experience package, including deluxe

does veranda communicate with veranda,

room, breakfast and dinner, is $760 for two

alleyway with alleyway, and bolt-hole with

nights, $1,130 for three nights and $1,470

bolt-hole.”

for four nights. Both packages are double occupancy, include round-trip transfers from

Shimla’s monument to the Raj is the historic

the airport or train station, and are good Jan.

Viceregal Lodge. Built in 1888 in grand Scot-

2 to March 31, 2006.

tish Baronial style, with gardens and an indoor tennis court, it was the residence of

The Cecil, (800) 562-3764, www.oberoihotels.

all 13 Viceroys of India, from Lord Dufferin to

com.

Lord Mountbatten, until India won independence in 1947. Now occupied by the Indian

Chapslee, 011-91-177-280-2542, fax: 011-

Institute of Advanced Studies, it has several

91-177-265-8663, chapslee@sancharnet.in,

rooms open to the public, and an exhibit

www.chapslee.com.

documenting the momentous debate and signing of the Partition Plan that took place

Getting there: The easiest way is the Oberoi

there, and its famous visitors, among them

Air Charter between Delhi and Shimla, with

Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru.

daily flights five days a week that must be booked in advance; (800) 562-3764.

If afternoon tea seems like an appropriate finale, Shimla has two authentic Raj-era op-

You can also fly India Airlines between Delhi

tions: The Cecil Hotel, built in 1902 and glori-

and Chandigarh, then drive four hours up

ously refurbished; and Chapslee, a delightful

to Wildflower Hall on a precipitous, twisting

“bungalow” where Kanwar Ratanjit Singh,

road with dizzying hairpin turns; you can’t

the Maharajah of Kapurthala, informally

rent a car without a driver, and you wouldn’t

known as Reggie, has six rooms for guests.

want to.

All the furnishings, from Gobelin tapestries, Murano chandeliers, even the wallpaper,

The train from Delhi to Shimla, changing in

date to the 1930s when his grandfather, Raja

the middle to a narrow-gauge track, takes

Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala, bought the

most of a day.

house. It’s probably your best chance to see how a Maharajah lives - let alone actually

Among the various carriers that fly from

meet one.

the United States to India, Lufthansa has the most European flights that connect to a IF YOU GO

number of U.S. gateways. The airline’s new business-class service has several interest-

Staying there:

ing perks: the longest flat beds in the air, in-

Wildflower

flight wireless Internet, U.S.-type electrical

Hall, (800)

outlets for laptops, and meals by Michelin-

562-3764,

starred chefs.

www.oberoihotels.com.

Travel tips: It is convenient to leave travel ar-

Double rooms

rangements to a reliable tour operator such

start around $355, but special packages are

as Cox & Kings, who are very experienced in

frequently offered. The Winter Retreat Pack-

India. They can coordinate logistics, provide

age is $1,400 for three nights and $2,300 for

knowledgeable guides, and make all book-

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