Let’s eat more… tofu

Ricotta, aubergines and paneer. Each is wonderful to cook with, but without the herbs, spices, vanilla or sugar to lift them into that curry, pasta or tiramisu, they’re not all that interesting to eat. The same can be said for tofu (also know as bean curd), so why do we treat it with such disdain?

Like paneer and the rest, tofu’s blandness is its biggest virtue. A kitchen shape-shifter, silken tofu can replace dairy and eggs in smoothies, desserts and baking, while frm tofu can become anything from a burger with barbecue sauce to a cannelloni flling.

Interestingly, despite these times of clean and meat-free eating, tofu isn’t getting much of a look-in. Tofu, which is made from soya, is a processed food. However, it’s been around for 2,000 years, so I’m OK with that. It contains all eight essential amino acids, is high in vitamins and minerals, and is low in fat.

Although much of the tofu we buy in the UK is GM-free and organic, there is concern about soya’s effect on global agriculture and the environment, plus controversy around soya in processed food. But for the moment, I feel happy cooking with good-quality tofu now and again, the upshot being that I’m eating less meat – another source of angst to the concerned consumer.

So what do you need to know to get the most out of your tofu? Silken tofu and some favoured tofus can be used as they come, but frm tofu – packed in liquid – needs pressing to squeeze out the water it holds. It’s really worth it and only takes 30 minutes (see box, bottom right).

Just as when browning meat, cook frm tofu on a high heat, don’t crowd the pan, and let it form a good crust before trying to turn it. If you’re stir-frying, cook the tofu frst and take it out of the wok – then add it back in at the end, as this will stop it from breaking up. To deep-fry, toss cubes in cornfour so that you get a crunchy outside and a custardy, soft middle.

You don’t have to reserve tofu for vegetarian recipes – many classic Asian dishes mix tofu with meat or seafood to add texture, offset favours and make expensive ingredients go further. One pack of tofu costs a fraction of the equivalent weight in good lean meat or fsh, so whichever way you look at it, it’s worth a try.

CHOOSING YOUR TOFU

Smoked tofu is a great place to start if you are worried about tofu tasting bland. Firm silken tofu is best in miso soups, served deep-fried or in baking, while frm block tofu is ideal for stir-fries.

Smoked tofu

Will only need pressing if it comes packed in liquid – this one has added seeds and nuts.

Firm silken tofu

Has a silky, slippery texture and is not pressed before use. Do not confuse with the more delicate soft silken tofu.

Firm block tofu

Has a coarse, open texture, becoming creamier and smoother once pressed.

Tofu escalopes with black olive salsa verde

Marinated in a little soy and with a crisp mustard and Parmesan coating, this is a delicious alternative to chicken Milanese. Salsa verde usually includes anchovy, but to make it veggie, I’ve used punchy dry black olives instead.

A LITTLE EFFORT CALCIUM VIT C

coated but not cooked SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus pressing COOK 20 mins

600g/1lb 5oz small new potatoes (I used red-skinned Roseval) 396g pack frm tofu, drained and pressed (see box, bottom right) 2 tbsp light soy sauce 3 tbsp plain four 50g/2oz Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), fnely grated 2 lemons, both zested, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges 50g/2oz panko or coarse dried breadcrumbs 1 egg 1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard 2 tbsp vegetable or sunfower oil, for frying 100g bag watercress or rocket FOR THE SALSA VERDE 2 garlic cloves 50g/2oz basil, stalks roughly chopped 2 tbsp small capers (in brine), drained 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve pinch of sugar 50g/2oz dry black pitted olives, sliced

1 Steam or boil the potatoes for 20 mins or until tender. Cut the pressed tofu into 4 rectangles, then splice each rectangle in half, like cutting a deck of cards. Lay the slices on a plate and sprinkle over the soy sauce. Set aside for 5 mins. 2 Meanwhile, make the salsa verde. Put the garlic, basil, capers, oil and sugar into a food processor with 3 tbsp lemon juice. Pulse until roughly chopped. Stir in the olives and season with pepper and a little salt. 3 Put the four on a plate and season with pepper. On another plate, mix the Parmesan and lemon zest into the breadcrumbs. Beat the egg, mustard and 2 tsp water in a wide bowl. Pat 1 slice of tofu in the four, then dip into the egg and coat with the breadcrumbs. Set aside. Repeat process until all the tofu is coated. 4 Heat the vegetable oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the tofu gently until golden brown, about 5 mins each side. Slice into fnger-width strips with a serrated knife, then mix together with the watercress and potatoes. Spoon over the salsa verde, drizzle over a little extra olive oil, and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

PER SERVING energy 575 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 7g • carbs 50g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 22g • salt 3.1g

MARINATING

Unpressed tofu is watery, making oil-based marinades ineffective – add oils (such as olive, chilli or sesame) at the end of cooking.

EASY CALCIUM FIBRE VIT C IRON 4 OF 5 A DAY chilli only SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK about 15 mins

1 tbsp vegetable or olive oil 2 onions, each cut into 12 wedges 2 Romano peppers, deseeded and sliced small pack coriander, leaves picked and stems fnely chopped 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp hot smoked paprika 200g pack smoked tofu (I liked Taifun), cut into bite-sized pieces 400g can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 400g can cherry tomatoes 1 tbsp dark brown soft sugar FOR SERVING 8 corn & wheat tortillas 2 limes, cut into wedges extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling 1 large ripe avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced just before serving thick yogurt or soured cream

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the onions and peppers. Season and cook on a high heat for 8 mins or until just tender and starting to char. Add the coriander stems, fry for 1 min, stirring, then add the spices and cook for 2 mins more, stirring, until fragrant. 2 Tip in the tofu, beans, tomatoes and sugar, and cook for 5 mins until the sauce is quite dry and the tofu is heated through. Warm the tortillas following pack instructions. 3 Taste the sauce for seasoning and add the coriander leaves and a squeeze of lime. Drizzle over a little extra virgin olive oil and serve with the tortillas, lime halves, avocado and yogurt or soured cream on the side.

PER SERVING energy 567 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 78g • sugars 20g • fibre 15g • protein 19g • salt 1.3g

HOW TOFU IS MADE

Dried soya beans are ground and then boiled – this makes soya milk, which is drained off into vats. Coagulants are then added and the milk forms curds, which are squeezed into blocks to make frm tofu. Silken tofu is pressed less, giving a smoother texture. It can now be smoked, favoured, fermented (which is an acquired taste) or left plain.

PRESSING YOUR TOFU

This will transform the tofu from a spongy block to one that’s far creamier and solid. It will slice easily, absorb marinades and won’t break up when you cut it. n Drain the liquid. Fold a clean tea towel over a few times, then wrap it around the tofu and set it on a large plate with a lip. n Put something heavy such as a frying pan on top, weight it down further with cans and jars, and leave for 30 mins. The tofu will be about two-thirds its original thickness, and up to 100ml water will have been removed. n You can do this the day before you’re going to use it, then keep the tofu in an airtight container in the fridge.