FOOD LOVERS’ WEEKEND
Oxford
Forget the starched white tablecloths – the best cooking amid Oxford’s dreaming spires is in relaxed, homely places you might not fnd in the guidebooks. Clare Hargreaves shares her favourites
Friday night bite The pleasingly short menu at Turl Street Kitchen (turlstreetkitchen.co.uk), which changes twice a day, signals that chef Carl Isham’s priorities are freshness, seasonality and local sourcing. This relaxed all-day café-restaurant – across three foors of a Georgian townhouse in the heart of the city – has been wowing with its honest cooking since it opened in 2011. Well-priced supper dishes might include a Braised lamb shoulder with spring veg, sourced from Sandy Lane Farm, while puddings could include Beetroot ripple iced parfait. There are ace cocktails too. If you’re there at elevenses or teatime, relax on the sofas with coffee and cake. Profits go to the Students’ Hub, a collection of student-run charities, so you can indulge with a clear conscience. If you prefer a pub atmosphere with stonking food, head for The Rickety Press gastropub (thericketypress.com) in the sleepy but central suburb of Jericho.
Branca deli (branca.co.uk) on Walton Street – or, if you’re after artisan bread (maybe with coffee, or homemade soup), make your way to The Natural Bread Company (natural breadcompany.co.uk) on Little Clarendon Street. On the second or fourth Saturday of the month, there’s a lively market on North Parade (northparademarket. com), where local producers sell everything from venison to shellfsh, duck eggs and cheese. My favourite is Barefoot Kitchen bakery (barefoot-kitchen.co.uk). Its fabulous salted caramel brownies and other organic cakes are also stocked in Number Two North Parade (2northparade.com), a deli selling local fruit, veg, cheese, pâtés, breads and more.
Lunch in the vaults The Vaults & Garden café (thevaultsand garden.com), in the 1320-built vaults of the university’s Old Congregation House, offers both home-cooked food at sensible prices and an unrivalled location between the Radcliffe Camera and the High Street. There are usually four-to-fve mains daily (including a vegetarian option), plus great soups, cakes and puds. When the weather is fne, you can sit outside.
The Vaults & Garden café; Maison Blanc cakes, below
Rufus and Ladd Thurston of Oli’s Thai
Feast from the East
Best for brunch
Oli’s Thai (olisthai.co.uk) has just fve tables and simple yet delicious, affordable cooking. Located on Magdalen Road, it’s owned by Rufus Thurston and his Thai wife, Ladd. Our favourite was the creamy Aubergine curry. As the place is so tiny, it is essential to book in advance. Pop into the Rusty Bicycle (therusty bicycle.com), a few doors down, for a drink – great atmosphere, beers and ciders.
If you’re an egg-loving bruncher in search of a relaxed vibe and fresh, ethically sourced food, you’re spoilt for choice. Cowley Road offers Door 74 (door74.co.uk), where you can go the whole hog with the full English or French toast, or try the veggie option, which includes carrot fritters. Another favourite is Oxfork (oxfork.co.uk), a bohemian café on Magdalen Road – try the Eggs Benedict and Eggs Royale, using eggs from nearby Willlowbrook Farm. If brunch melts into lunch, there are plenty of great-value specials.
Afternoon tea The Missing Bean (themissingbean. co.uk), pictured below, a few doors from the Turl Street Kitchen, does a brilliant Lime & courgette cake and other homemade confections. For French perfection, head to the original Maison Blanc patisserie (maisonblanc.co.uk) on Woodstock Road, established in 1981 by Raymond Blanc’s ex-wife. The chef’s two-Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons (belmond.com) is just outside Oxford.
Where to stay Fancy a spot of luxury? The recently refurbished Old Parsonage Hotel (oldparsonage-hotel.co.uk), housed in a wonderful 17th-century building, has 35 plush rooms, starting at £185 without breakfast. For a mid-range option, book The Tower House (towerhouseoxford.co.uk), a tiny B&B in a medieval building in Ship Street, bang in the centre. Simple rooms, some en suite, others sharing bathrooms, from £95, including breakfast at Turl Street Kitchen.
Shops and markets Oxford’s unmissable foodie landmark is its Covered Market (oxford-coveredmarket. co.uk), where shops such as butcher M Feller, Son & Daughter (mfeller.co.uk) have been trading forever. Snap up some Oxford Blue at the Oxford Cheese Company (oxfordcheese.co.uk) stall too. For loose-leaf Jeeves & Jericho teas and the best pork pies, head to
March 2015
Sunday lunch With its mismatched tables and high decibel levels, The Magdalen Arms (magdalenarms.com) is a lively gastropub on the corner of Magdalen Road in east Oxford. I particularly love its sturdy Sunday roasts. Menus change twice daily. The puds are good too – try the Chocolate fondant & salted caramel ice cream or the Steamed ginger pudding.
• The Oxford Literary Festival runs 21-29 March (oxfordliteraryfestival.org)
bbcgoodfood.com
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