Drinks
Etc.
THE GRASSHOPPER
62
RETURN OF THE FERN
W
Modern takes on the yuppie, Seventies-era cocktail spot
hen bar impresario Joe Carroll opened Oleanders in June in Brooklyn, he didn’t want to copy the speakeasies and burger pubs that dot many urban neighborhoods. So he went back— way back—to the fern bar, a concept from the 1970s named for its whitewashed, plant-abundant aesthetic. The greenery was meant to appeal to professional women, who were joining the business world and going out as singles in unprecedented numbers. While meeting friends for happy hour, they sampled sweet cocktails and continental meals under the glow of Tiffany glass lamps. Men, of course, followed suit. Fern bars went out of style in the late ’80s, but now Carroll and restaurateurs in other cities are updating them for a crowd that’s too young to remember the first wave.
Make it at home: · 1 oz. Giffard MenthePastille · 1 oz. Tempus Fugit Crème de Cacao · 1 oz. half & half · 2-3 sprays Jade 1901 absinthe · 1 sprig fresh mint Overfill a coupe with ice. In a shaker, mix first three ingredients. Pour over ice. Spray absinthe. Garnish with mint.
TWO MORE RETRO TAKES
Henry Africa’s, opened in San Francisco in 1970 and closed in 2011, was one of the earliest successes. The Lemon Drop martini was invented there. In New York, T.G.I Friday’s was hot; the chain still relies on similar décor.
Honeycut Los Angeles
The Heavy Feather Chicago
This downtown spot, hidden in an alley, hums after work with professionals downing some of the 22 craft cocktails on the menu. Later, they flock to a replica Saturday Night Fever dance floor that gets surprisingly crowded as the evening wears on.
Opened in July above a popular dive in the Logan Square neighborhood, it has parquet floors, wood paneling, and very comfy bar chairs. Try the upscale version of an Amaretto Sour, which mixes two types of whiskey with egg white and lemon. Carroll also serves an update on lobster thermidor ($32) with a cognac cream sauce and Gruyère, plus clams casino and other classics.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHS BY CONNIE ZHOU FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (3); LARRY TISCORNIA/SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE/POLARIS
Tiki was trending until the late ’60s, when U.S. cocktail culture was born and drinks like the Rob Roy and Harvey Wallbanger Menthe-Pastille, became hits. The a liqueur made by a Grasshopper French family since 1885, was like a liquid has a strong, minty version of an bite. Oleanders adds a after-dinner Andes few drops of green food Mint. This update coloring to the bottle to is less sweet, a make the drink prettier. bit herbaceous, and cooling on a warm night.
