BA - Winter 2022 by Lawrence Ambrocio

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O U R M A I N C O U R S E.

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AY E S H A C U R R Y PROVES COOKING IS GLAMOROUS.

15 Gift Guide Everything the foodobsessed people in your life really want. 32 Family Meal Weeknight-ready meals to break up the holiday feasts, from juicy meatballs to creamy noodle soup. 42 The Pour Not your parents’ rum punch: Shyretha Sheats makes the case for cognac in your cocktail.

46 All on the Table Author Elizabeth Acevedo never cared much about cooking, until a family crisis put her in charge of the New Year’s Eve lasagna de carne.

56 Cookbook Cookies Eye-catching cookie recipes from our favorite new cookbooks.

48 A Holiday Feast With Ayesha Curry The actor and author shares her favorite Jamaica-inspired recipes, like sweet coconut rice and a showstopping prime rib roast with crema.

66 Three Ways to Cocktail Party Whether this year’s festivities mean going all-out or doing less, here’s a handy guide for hosting.

4 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

BY CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU

RECIPES BY ANDY BARAGHANI, ZAYNAB ISSA, KENDRA VACULIN

74 Merry Breakfast For a decadent but ready-when-you-are breakfast, look no further than Rachel Gurjar’s gooey hazelnut tart. 76 A Kids ’ Holiday Special This one’s for the young folk! We’ve got extra festive brainteasers, a game played with cookies, candy cane ice cream to (literally!) shake up at home, and so much more.

89 Basically Everything to know about ham, the holiday table mainstay, including how to serve it and what to do with the leftovers (croquemonsieur, anyone?).

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 editor’s letter 94 recipe index

BY AMIEL STANEK

96 Dream Dinner Party Comedian Jimmy Fallon remixes the dream dinner party with a dream tea party fit for royalty. BY DAWN DAVIS

ON THE COVER

Galletitas de Cebada Tostada y Mermelada (for recipe, see p. 64). Photograph by Emma Fishman. Food styling by Pearl Jones. Prop styling by Martha Bernabe.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EVA KOLENKO. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

P. 4 8

BURRATA

Find BelGioioso Cheeses near you!

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Editor in Chief

DAWN DAVIS Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO Deputy Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Creative Director ARSH RAZIUDDIN Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE

Editorial

Design

Test Kitchen

Editorial Director AMANDA SHAPIRO Digital Director SASHA LEVINE Senior Editor, Cooking SARAH JAMPEL Senior Staff Writer ALEX BEGGS Culture Editor HILARY CADIGAN Lifestyle Editor KAREN YUAN Associate Editors ALI FRANCIS, BETTINA MAKALINTAL Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA Assistant Editor CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU Digital Production Assistant NICO AVALLE Recipe Production Assistant MEHREEN KARIM Assistant to the Editor in Chief JENNA ADRIAN-DIAZ Entertainment Director CAITLIN BRODY Contributing Editors JENNIFER HOPE CHOI, AMIEL STANEK

Contributing Designers WALTER GREEN, DRUE WAGNER Contributing Digital Designer BRITTANY HOLLOWAY-BROWN Art Assistant JULIA DUARTE

Senior Food Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY Food Editor SHILPA USKOKOVIC Associate Food Editors RACHEL GUR JAR, ZAYNAB ISSA, KENDRA VACULIN Assistant Food Editor JESSIE YUCHEN

Global Commerce Category Director, Food & Home ELAHEH NOZARI Senior Commerce Editor MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN Commerce Writer TIFFANY HOPKINS

Photography Contributing Visuals Editors ELIZABETH JAIME, ALLIE WIST Contributing Digital Visuals Editor LYN HORST Assistant Visuals Editor DONDRE STUETLEY Staff Photographer EMMA FISHMAN Associate Staff Photographer ISA ZAPATA

Operations Production Managers MATT CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Research Director RYAN HARRINGTON Contributing Research Editor MARISSA WOLKENBERG Contributing Editor

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

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6 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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S H O P AT B O L L A N D B R A N C H . C O M

Editor ’s Letter

Home Sweet Holidays I B L A M E I T O N T E D L A S S O and his pink boxes full of fresh-baked shortbread: Our obsession over cookies started early this year. Case in point, the popularity of our Salted Caramel Apple Cookies on bonappetit.com and the feverish hunt for more irresistible cookie recipes that followed. We found them in an array of new cookbooks and share our favorites for the holidays on page 56. When a tray of all the cookies was brought down from our test kitchen—which has finally reopened!—I took more than my share of Dorie Greenspan’s Iced Spiced Hermits (page 64). I hope no one was counting. Also impressive was the Pink Grapefruit Sugar Cookie, pictured above, from Jesse Szewczyk’s cookbook, Cookies: The New Classics. 8 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

We’ve been thinking a lot about children here at BA, since the ones in our lives have had a very long couple of years. So in this issue we made a special section just for them (page 76). Food-forward and playful, it features recipes, games, and more. And for the parents, we hope it’s distracting enough to let you get your holiday feast underway. (And maybe even inspire your kids to help you cook? Wash the dishes? Only time will tell.) We’re also drawn to cookbook author Ayesha Curry, who designed a gorgeous menu (page 48). The Prime Rib Roast With Habanero Crema is succulent, tender, and paired with an easy side of cabbage and carrots (made fancy by a boost of aromatics and allspice). A colorful salad topped with a bright citrus dressing and a sticky-sweet rum cake round out the meal. As writer Elizabeth Acevedo reminds us in her essay on page 46, it’s nonmaterialistic things like family—and who is headlining in the kitchen—that matter most this time of year. But if you are in need of some presents, check out our gift guide (page 15). I can’t stop staring at that Bloom Teapot. And speaking of tea, you’ll never guess who Jimmy Fallon is inviting to his dream party (page 96). Until the New Year…

DAW N DAV I S edi tor in ch ief @bonappetitdawn on instagram

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH.

Grapefruit-laced and dressed to impress. P. 60

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E d i t o r ’s L e t t e r

What I’m Loving Three destinations on my mind by DAW N DAV I S

One White Street With a team that reflects the city’s diversity, ingredients grown on Rigor Hill Farm in the Hudson Valley, techniques that pay homage to chef Austin Johnson’s time in France, and rooms that look straight out of the pages of your favorite design magazine, this restaurant in NYC’s Tribeca is well worth the wait.

PARADISE PERFECTED An effortless escape from

In NYC’s Flatiron district, chef Stefano Secchi has designed a thoroughly appealing menu, from the perfect cocktails to the outstanding pasta, including the reginelle verde, playfully annotated on the menu with “if a Neapolitan lived in Emilia.” And whatever you do, don’t miss the bathrooms. They are genius.

the everyday and a portal to all that’s exceptional and unforgettable. Paradise has never felt so perfect .

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When traveling in the California desert, I’m usually too sated by natural beauty to obsess over food. But this architectural marvel in Palm Springs stopped me in my tracks. It delivers stylish comfort food (think scarlet runner beans with pork jowl and collard greens) for when the temperature drops and hunger peaks.

PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLE FRANZEN (ONE WHITE STREET); CASEY GILTNER (REZDÔRA); AUDREY MA (WORKSHOP KITCHEN + BAR)

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GIFT GUIDE

TO GIVE IS DIVINE Gifts for the cook, the host, and maybe even yourself

You could take fresh flowers to your holiday host, but a dried arrangement in a sculptural vase made from recycled paper will last a whole lot longer. Serax Paper Mache Vessels, $60–$200; food52.com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 – 15

GIFT GUIDE

FOR THE MOST COLORFUL PERSON YOU KNOW

Gemstones? In this economy? If a real emerald isn’t in the cards, give your boo a box of these crunchyon-the-outside, gummy-on-the-inside vegan sweets. 8-Piece Crystal Treats Jewelry Box, $64; misaky.tokyo

1 6 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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GIFT GUIDE

Life is all sunshine and rainbows with this sustainable set of seven nesting bowls made of biodegradable bamboo. Bamboozle Nesting Bowls, $80; market.bonappetit.com

A perfect component for a wintry punch, this ruby-hued clove -and-ginger-spiced liqueur is a spin on sorrel, a Caribbean drink made from hibiscus. Sorel Liqueur, $40; reservebar.com

1 8 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

Crafted in Kenya, these cotton napkins are finished with a contrasting scalloped edge. Mix and match to create your own vibrant set. Napkins, $20 each; siafuhome.com

What’s better than eating your way through a pile of mortadella? Eating your way through a pile of mortadella while lounging on this pool float. Mortadella Pool Float, $68; katiekimmel.com

GIFT GUIDE

Modern and minimalist, this steel Hanukkah menorah comes in neutral tones like charcoal and off-white as well as navy blue, rust red, and mustard yellow. Trace Chanukiah, $155; via-maris.com

Designed in the ’90s by iconic Italian architect Gaetano Pesce, these handpoured resin coasters look like melted Jolly Ranchers. Resin Coasters, $25 for two; comingsoonnewyork.com

A fancy car with a bow on the hood? Eh. Beautifully packaged tinned fish? Now that’s a gift. Fishwife’s salmon, trout, and tuna fit the bill. Smoked Fish, $27–$33 for three; eatfishwife.com

Handblown in Brooklyn and available in colors like moody plum and highlighter yellow, these exuberant glass tumblers feature bubbles begging to be booped. Bubble Cup, $90–$120; stickyglass.com

C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 2 2

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*For applicable sailings and terms and conditions, please visit RSSC.com/Gift-Of-Travel

EVERY

LU X URY INCLUDED

GIFT GUIDE

FOR THE FRIEND WHO CAN’T BEAR A TRIP TO A BIG-BOX STORE

Use this footed clay stand handcrafted in Colombia to hold fresh avocados—or to serve a party-size amount of guacamole. Ames Mini Barro Tray, $205; goodeeworld.com 2 2 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

AN ANCIENT RECIPE

WITHOUT GLUTEN OR LACTOSE. TALK ABOUT FORWARD THINKING. GRUYERE.COM

GIFT GUIDE

This runner made from reclaimed linen is the rare gift for both your Deadhead uncle and your Zoomer cousin. Tie -Dye Denim Runner, $78; ateliersaucier.la

Hand-thrown on a wheel, this stoneware tea strainer and mug ensemble is for the friend who’s into loose-leaf tea and drama. Ensemble À Thé, $71; leanicolas.com

These recycled-glass tumblers are made in Oaxaca, Mexico, using ovens partially powered by spent cooking oil. Xaquixe Tumblers, $50 for two; goodeeworld.com

These glass and terra-cotta planters come in a rainbow of colors, but the mirrored disco pots really bring the party. Mosaic Planters, $15–$80; cleancutmosaics.com

Lucky are the salads that get served in these hand-cast porcelain bowls, each with its own unique marbling pattern. Stellar Serving Bowl, $180; sarahcihat.com

The markings on these linen napkins are inspired by First Nations pottery and tools uncovered in Manitoba, Canada. Bezhig and Niswi Napkins, $55; indigoarrows.ca

Two natural wine pros and a furniture designer walk into a glassblowing studio and out comes this gorgeous low-profile vessel. Wine Glass, $55; broccellars.com

This trivet, made in Uganda of cow horn and acacia, is so pretty you’ll be reluctant to hide it under a pot. Acacia Wood and Horn Trivet, $60; xnasozistudio.com

If you’re traveling for the holidays, gift your host this cheery mug—and then steal it for yourself every morning. Angles Mug, $58; mudwitch.com

2 4 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 2 8

LIFT TO DISCOVER LA VIE EST BELLE

SCAN TO BUY

LIFT T O D I S C O V E R LA VIE EST BELLE SOLEIL CRISTAL

SCAN TO BUY

FOR THE HOST WITH THE MOST

Made in collaboration with floral tea company The Qi, this borosilicate glass teapot was designed so you can watch dried blossoms bloom in hot water— but it’s just as good for coffee or hojicha. Bloom Teapot, $75; sophieloujacobsen.com

2 8 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

GIFT GUIDE

These small-batch mezcals are for savoring, but we’d buy them for the lovely ceramic bottles alone. OAX Original, $110–$190; reservebar.com

Olivieri’s panettoni are in a class of their own. Go with the classic, or wild out with triple chocolate. Panettone, $75; usa .olivieri1882.com

Put on all your jewelry and sip a sopping wet martini out of this Italian stemware. Martini Coupes, $126 for two; eastfork.com

The first ingredient in these savory button-size cookies is butter. The anchovy scallion is our fave. Rounds, $38; theroundsnyc.com

These bars are made from Filipino cacao infused with Filipino rum. Oodaalolly x Kasama Chocolate, $24 for three; kasamarum.com

This 60x60" organic cotton tablecloth is dyed with moody splotches of radicchio and rose. The Picnic Blanket, $150; fefostudio.com

D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 – 2 9

FOR THE COOK WHO NEEDS AN UPGRADE

No shade to those heritage French brands, but these sleek enameled pots designed by chef Sergio Herman have us feeling weak at the knees. Serax Surface Cast-Iron Dutch Oven, $120–$300; food52.com 3 0 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE

GIFT GUIDE

These salsa machas add heat, depth, and texture to everything from eggs to tacos. Try the árbol, nori, and sesame blend. Pura Macha, $18 each; masienda.com

For better coffee, grind your beans at home. This burr grinder will take your pourover to the next level. Fellow Ode Brew Grinder, $299; market.bonappetit.com

Hand-loomed in Guatemala, these crossback sturdy cotton aprons come in cheery colors like rosy hibiscus and golden honey. Utility Apron, $135; minna-goods.com

Making rice just got cute. This ceramic rice cooker whistles like a kettle when it’s time to take it off the stove. Hario Japanese Rice Cooker, $75–$95; food52.com

As useful for the garden as they are for the kitchen, these sturdy stainless-steel shears come apart for easy washing. The Good Shears, $35; materialkitchen.com

The price tags are hefty, but Hestan’s NanoBond stainless-steel pans are the most durable we’ve used. Titanium Sauté Pans, $330–$400; hestanculinary.com

For the sustainably minded cook, these patterned organic cotton and beeswax food wraps will replace single -use plastic. Wax Wraps, $16–$59; supraendura.com

These striped tea towels, which come in warm sunset tones or shades of blue, are woven in Ethiopia from 100 percent cotton. Afar Tea Towel, $45; boleroadtextiles.com

This hand-spun brass dabba keeps your most-used spices (it comes with seven jars) neat and within reach. Masala Dabba, $200; diasporaco.com

D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 – 31

Family Meal Keep a warm heart this holiday season with noodles in a bold curry broth, spiced coconut-harissa meatballs, and more

This umami-packed broth can be paired with fragrant rice, tofu, and even spiralized zucchini.

I T ’S T H E M O S T

wonderful time of the year: soup season! There’s no better way to stay cozy “than with a big bowl of brothy noodles, like BA recipe production assistant Mehreen Karim’s mega-satisfying curry noodle soup on page 34. Inspired by a silky vegan broth at her favorite soba shop in New York City, Karim marries store-bought vegetable stock with creamy tahini and robust red curry paste. “Red curry paste has a funky, subdued heat that’s balanced out by the nutty richness of the tahini,” Karim says. “Combined, they create a brand-new flavor profile.” Chock-full of chewy egg noodles and leafy kale, this meal is sure to ward off any winter blues. —CHAL A T YSON TSHITUNDU

P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

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Family Meal

Creamy Curry Egg Noodle Soup Make this delightful dish vegan by using shrimp-free red curry paste and swapping rice noodles for egg noodles and coconut oil for butter R E C I P E BY M E H R E E N K A R I M

4 S E RV I N G S

1 2 5 ¼ 2

large leek or 2 medium leeks Tbsp. vegetable oil large garlic cloves, finely grated cup (or more) Thai red curry paste Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt; plus more 4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth

1. Trim dark green top from leek; discard. Slice white and pale green parts ½" thick. Place in a large bowl, cover with water, and rinse, separating rings to remove dirt. Drain; pat dry. 2. Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Cook half of the leek, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, ¼ cup curry paste, and 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally to coat leek, until fragrant and curry is brick red, about 2 minutes. Add broth, tahini, honey, soy sauce, vinegar, and 2 cups water and stir to combine. Increase heat to high and bring liquid to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and simmer 20 minutes. Taste soup; stir in more curry paste and season with more salt if desired. 3. Meanwhile, cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain and set aside. 4. Add kale, butter, and remaining leek to soup and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until kale and leek are softened, 5–7 minutes. 5. Divide reserved egg noodles among bowls; ladle soup over.

No kale? No problem! Add spinach or bok choy right before serving to bulk up your broth.

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⅓ 3 1 1 12 1

cup tahini Tbsp. honey Tbsp. soy sauce Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar oz. wide egg noodles small bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn into small pieces 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Family Meal

Coconut-Harissa Meatballs Juicy pork meatballs nestle into a rich harissa and coconut milk sauce. If white bean mash isn’t quite your style, pair with polenta or orzo R E C I P E BY S A H A R A H E N RY B O H O S K E Y

1. Finely chop shallots and garlic. Combine garam masala, half of the shallots, half of the garlic, ½ cup cilantro, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl; season with pepper. Add pork and mix gently until just combined. Divide into 12 pieces and roll into balls. 2. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook meatballs, turning occasionally, until browned in spots, 5–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate. 3. Reduce heat to medium; cook remaining shallots and garlic in skillet, stirring often, until garlic is softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in harissa paste, coconut milk, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with pepper. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until slightly thickened, 6–8 minutes. 4. Nestle meatballs into sauce; cover and cook 10 minutes. Turn meatballs over; cook, uncovered, occasionally spooning sauce over, until sauce is about the consistency of marinara, 8–10 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, heat remaining ¼ cup oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add beans and ½ tsp. sumac; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring and mashing beans and adding up to ¼ cup water a little at a time to loosen if needed, until heated through and almost completely mashed, about 3 minutes. 6. Divide beans among plates; top with meatballs and sauce. Scatter cilantro leaves and sumac over. 3 6 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

4 S E RV I N G S

2 4 1 ½

medium shallots garlic cloves tsp. garam masala cup finely chopped cilantro, plus leaves for serving 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more

Freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. ground pork 1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup refined coconut oil, room temperature ⅓ cup harissa paste 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 2 15-oz. cans white beans, rinsed ½ tsp. sumac, plus more for serving

Henr y Bohoskey swears by her jar of New York Shuk’s thick, punchy, spicy harissa.

The

FRENCH-INSPIRED HOLIDAY

Can’t get to Paris this Christmas? Host a French-inspired holiday feast at home instead.

L’ART DE LA TABLE

To the French, table setting is an art, and a custom for turning even the most casual meal into a feast. Here’s how to design your own this holiday.

By now, you’ve traveled enough, and seen enough movies, to know the classic French table. Think rough-hewn wood table, porcelain plates, the good crystal, and the requisite jar of Grey Poupon. But something the French like nearly as much as tradition: shirking the rules. This season, give your table a Frenchinspired setting with some unexpected pops of color and whimsy for a most modern holiday. Designed to elevate and inspire, it will turn a simple dinner into a full-on, gourmand-worthy feast. The overall look you’re going for is effortless and fun, like you’ve just thrown it all together in the spur of the moment—even if, in fact, you’ve been prepping for days. (There is nothing chicer than a host at ease.) Lay the groundwork with a colorful linen tablecloth in a nice cantaloupe, dusty rose, or Grey Poupon-yellow. Whether you give every guest the standard three-plate treatment—the presentation plate, dinner plate, and salad plate—is up to you, but do forgo the plain, white porcelain for colored or patterned dishware instead. Serving bowls might even mix and match in homage to the classic French flea, recalling inspiring journeys you’ve taken: a wooden salad bowl with the hand-beaded tongs you brought home from Rwanda, that stripy ceramic bread basket you picked up in Marrakech. Your napkins needn’t coordinate either, and perhaps it’s better if they don’t; just be sure they’re good quality—(a thick linen is best). Choose flatware that’s festive—say, a brushed-gold metallic—and if you’d like to throw in a subtle nod to tradition, place the forks to the left of the

plate with the tines pointing down (called à la française). For drinking, bring in a touch of vintage (or vintage-inspired) glassware,—colored or clear. And since this is a party, you’ll probably want three types: one for wine, one for champagne, and one for water, which you’ll serve from a few carafes. (Hot Tip: For French-quality super-clean glasses, wash them in advance with steam, holding over a pot or tea kettle until the glass fogs, then wiping with a clean cloth.) Place butter and salt in small ramekins, and in homage to the French way, keep all other condiments off the table—aside from the jar of Dijon mustard (Grey Poupon, but of course), which suits all styles. Have fun with the florals, too. Supplement your classic winter white anemones and amaryllis with modern-feeling greenery (skip the fir in favor of magnolia or eucalyptus). You may not be able to get fresh versions of what you want, and that’s okay—faux florals are more sophisticated than ever, and often so good you can’t tell they aren’t real. Don’t think about it too much—just pick a few and make an arrangement as you would at a flower shop, perhaps even mixing them with real leaves. Toss a bunch of tealights on the table for ambiance and depth, and your magical French holiday setting is complete. On fait la fête!

SALMON WITH GREY POUPON COGNAC GLAZE The holidays are meant for slowing down and savoring time spent with loved ones. This year, choose a main course that lets you do just that. Of course, simple prep doesn’t mean your meal has to taste simple. This recipe for side of salmon gets its complexity from cognac, garlic, a mix of herbs, and Grey Poupon, used for generations by French cooks looking to turn their meals into feasts. Made with French-style wine, Grey Poupon’s time-honored recipe lends distinct flavor and texture to a range of dishes. A quick spin under the broiler, and you’ve got an elegant, show-stopping centerpiece of a meal in under 10 minutes.

INGREDIENTS 1 3 1 2 1 1

side of Salmon (about 6 lb), with skin Tbsp Grey Poupon Dijon Mustard Tbsp + 1 tsp cognac large cloves garlic, grated Tbsp sage, finely chopped Tbsp rosemary, finely chopped

1 Tbsp oregano, finely chopped 1 Tbsp of parsley, basil, tarragon and picked thyme, rough chopped or torn 3 lemons, halved Salt to taste

PREPARATION Preheat the oven to a high broil with the top rack about 8-10 inches below the top surface. Ready a baking sheet large enough for your salmon with parchment and place your salmon skin-side down. Combine Grey Poupon Dijon Mustard, cognac and garlic in a small bowl. Rub mixture onto salmon and then lightly salt. Sprinkle your finely mixed rosemary, sage and oregano over the salmon. Place cut lemons around salmon on top of parchment paper, flesh-side down.

Broil for about 8-10 minutes depending on thickness and your desired doneness. Use a sharp knife at the thickest section to peek in and to see if it’s as flaky as you like. Once out, carefully transfer to a platter (the skin will slip off and ease your transfer, or leave on the sheet tray for a rustic-chic feel). Distribute the reserved fresh herbs over the fish and serve with the broiled lemon halves.

ET MAINTENANT, LE VIN The drink du jour? Well, white wine, of course.

It’s no surprise that the French take their wine drinking quite seriously and so, of course, do you. While a cocktail (or two) may well start the night off, the primary drink to serve at dinner should be simple enough to complement, but not

that will nicely balance the mustardy salmon. Expect medium-acidity. Meursault: Another rich, balanced, and approachable Burgundy white, a Meursault Chardonnay will offer medium- to high-acidity and layers of flavor that include spice and fruit-forwardness. Round, intense, and memorable.

overshadow, the main course. Salmon is quite versatile, but lighter preparations (done without cream or much butter) work best with whites; this one, prepared with a blend of herbs and secret ingredient Grey Poupon, is complex and rich without being at all heavy. The white wine in the Grey Poupon lays the groundwork for a perfect pairing with a full-bodied white, ideally one with bright hints of spice, pronounced citrus, and honeysuckle (or other florals), balanced by a vibrant acidity. One bite, one sip, and your guests will be instantly transported to Paris. A few options: Sancerre: A classic Sauvignon Blanc from France’s Loire Valley will provide the right level of texture and spiciness to pair well with such an herb-heavy dish. Notes of citrus naturally highlight the fish, while the wine’s bracing acidity will taste pleasantly tart and crisp. Pouilly-Fuissé: A youthful white Chardonnay from the Burgundy region, made from grapes grown less than an hour south of the city of Dijon, Pouilly-Fuissé has notes of honeysuckle and a hint of spice

OUI! You Can Decant Your White Wine While some traditionalists demur at the thought of decanting white wine, the modern thinking is that 10 to 20 minutes can make a great wine even better. Besides, what’s the rush? The best meals are always savored.

TEMPERATURE Decanting can cool a wine to a less frigid temperature for greater complexity. Or decant a wine that’s too warm by immersing the decanter in a sink of ice for 15 minutes.

TASTE Brief exposure to oxygen—15 to 20 minutes—can take a crisp, refreshing white to a deeper, more dimensional place. (This is especially true in the case of screw-top wines.)

SALUT!

MAKE EVERY MEAL A FEAST Grey Poupon is for those who love the act of eating as much as they love food itself. Made in the original French style with white wine, Grey Poupon is sure to elevate every meal to feel like a feast. So take a moment to savor and enjoy your next meal with Grey Poupon.

Family Meal

Shrimp and Crispy Rice With Citrus This is a great recipe for leftover rice sitting in the fridge. A few minutes in a hot pan will bring it back to life and impart a satisfying crunch R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N

1. Rinse rice in a fine-mesh sieve until water runs clear. Place in a medium saucepan; add ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt and 1¼ cups water. Stir well, then bring to a boil. Cover with a lid and reduce heat to lowest setting. Cook, undisturbed, 15 minutes. Remove from heat, uncover, and fluff rice with a fork. 2. Meanwhile, slice an orange in half and finely grate in zest from 1 half into a large bowl. Squeeze juice from same half through a fine-mesh sieve into bowl; discard seeds (if using grapefruit, use 2 tsp. zest and 3 Tbsp. juice). Whisk in garlic, lime juice, 2 Tbsp. oil, and ½ tsp. mild chile flakes. 3. Meanwhile, remove peel and white pith from remaining citrus; discard. Slice citrus into ¼"-thick rounds; set aside. 4. Pat shrimp dry; season with salt. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Cook shrimp, tossing occasionally, until bright pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl with dressing; toss to coat. 5. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in same pan over medium-high. Add rice; press into an even layer with a spoon. Cook, undisturbed, until light golden and crisp underneath, 6–8 minutes. Divide rice among plates, arranging crisped side up. 6. Add avocado, onion, arugula, and reserved citrus rounds to bowl with shrimp and season with salt; toss well. Spoon over rice; drizzle any remaining dressing on top. Sprinkle mild chile flakes over. 3 8 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

4 S E RV I N G S

1 cup medium- or long-grain white rice ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 12 oz. mixed citrus (such as Cara Cara oranges, blood oranges, and/or grapefruit) 2 garlic cloves, finely grated

Tinned tuna dressed in olive oil serves as an easy swap for shrimp in a pinch.

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided ½ tsp. mild chile flakes, plus more for serving 1 lb. shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed 1 avocado, sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 3 cups arugula

YOUR COOKIES MAKE SANTA LATE FOR THE NEXT STOP. WE’VE GOT A SNACK FOR PEOPLE LIKE YOU.

Family Meal

Pan-Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Tempeh Here sweet potatoes are festooned with crispy shallots, tempeh crumbles reminiscent of bacon bits, and a smattering of smoky chipotle oil R E C I P E BY A L I S L AG L E

1. Place a rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 425°. Heat shallots, chipotle chiles, tempeh, and oil in a large cast-iron skillet over high until oil is sizzling, then reduce heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots and tempeh are golden brown, 8–10 minutes.

4 S E RV I N G S

2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 chipotle chiles in adobo, coarsely chopped 1 8-oz. block tempeh, crumbled into pieces no bigger than a chickpea ½ cup grapeseed or vegetable oil Kosher salt

4 medium sweet potatoes (about 1½ lb.), scrubbed, halved lengthwise 1 small crisp apple (such as Pink Lady or Honeycrisp), cored, coarsely chopped Zest and juice of ½ lime ⅓ cup coarsely chopped cilantro

Fresh apples and cilantro are tossed in lime juice to add a bit of brightness to this wintr y dish.

2. Drain tempeh mixture in a fine-mesh sieve set over a large heatproof bowl. Wipe out and reserve skillet. Transfer tempeh mixture to paper towels; season with salt. Let cool (it will crisp as it cools). 3. Add sweet potatoes to bowl with drained oil and season with salt; turn to coat. Arrange sweet potatoes cut side down in reserved skillet; set bowl with remaining oil aside. Roast sweet potatoes, undisturbed, until golden brown and tender, 25–30 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, add apple, lime zest and juice, and cilantro to reserved bowl with oil and stir gently to coat; season apple salad with salt.

FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES

5. To serve, transfer sweet potatoes to a platter. Spoon tempeh mixture over and top with apple salad.

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4 2 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES

Sheats loves Pierre Ferrand cognac for its qualit y and price point. Tr y the fruit y 1840 Original Formula, developed especially for mixing, or choose the Ambré, which at 10 years old could be labeled an XO, for a smoother, richer cocktail.

Th e P o u r

Allow Cognac to Reintroduce Itself This complex and historic spirit is the ideal base for a warming winter cocktail b y S H Y R E T H A S H E ATS

I H A D M Y F I R S T T A S T E of cognac with friends at a long-ago pregame. The grape-distilled spirit was disguised in a sugary green mixed drink that seasoned millennials may know as the Incredible Hulk—equal parts Hennessy and Hpnotiq, famed at P. Diddy’s erstwhile Justin’s Restaurant in Atlanta. From the first sip the essence of prunes took over my senses. I declared then and there that I was not a cognac lover. Once I became a bartender, I learned about rancio, a chemical process that occurs naturally as cognac ages in oak barrels—and creates that dried fruit flavor I initially disliked. But the more I experimented, the more fascinated I became with how cognac’s aromas and flavors would change depending on whether I mixed it with other ingredients or poured it over ice. A type of brandy that comes only from the Cognac region of France, cognac is classified based on how long it spends in those oak barrels: VS (Very Special), at least two years; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), at least four years; and XO (Extra Old), at least 10. A young cognac might have accents of red roses, underripe bananas, and stone fruit, making it perfect for cocktails, but age mellows it into a smooth, dark, deeply flavored sipper. Cognac has been popular in sweet punches since the 18th century; the key is finding harmonious ingredients that accent the spirit’s complexity rather than masking it. In this recipe, that means fresh lemon juice and a creamy herb-kissed pineapple syrup that’ll transport you somewhere warm and tropical for the holidays—no matter where you actually are.

Cognac Punch Swizzle Where a traditional punch recipe might call for orgeat, Sheats substitutes a creamy condensed milk and pineapple syrup for a tropical vibe. The syrup’s yield is party size (about 2 cups), so you can scale up this recipe for 12 servings and batch the cocktail for a punch bowl or save the extra syrup for drizzling over ice cream or pound cake. MAKES 1

SY R U P

1 1 1 1 30 1

cup pineapple juice cup sugar sprig sage sprig thyme black peppercorns cup sweetened condensed milk

1½ ¾ ¾ 1

oz. cognac oz. Cocchi Aperitivo Americano oz. fresh lemon juice tsp. absinthe Angostura bitters and orange twist (for serving)

ASS E M B LY

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

SYRUP Bring pineapple juice, sugar, and 1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook until reduced by half and slightly thickened, 8–10 minutes. Remove from heat and add sage, thyme, and peppercorns. Let sit 10 minutes. Strain syrup through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass or small bowl; discard solids. Let cool completely, then stir in condensed milk. Chill pineapple syrup until cold, at least 30 minutes. D O A H E A D : Syrup can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. ASS E M B LY To make 1 cocktail, combine cognac, aperitivo, lemon juice, absinthe, and ¾ oz. pineapple syrup in a Collins glass. Fill halfway with crushed ice. Using a bar spoon or other longhandled spoon, mix by rotating handle between your palms until cocktail is combined and glass is frosty. Fill to rim with more crushed ice. Top with a few dashes of bitters and garnish with an orange twist.

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How to Keep Stirring Cooking the annual lasagna de carne was always Mami’s territory— until the year I had no choice but to take over b y E L I Z A B E T H AC E V E D O

4 6 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

I T W A S M Y J O B to trim the ruffled edges off the boiled lasagna sheets. My mother—a cook so particular she once remade the chicken at a friend’s dinner party because it looked “too pale”—does not abide by anything but straightedged pasta. “It’s the only way to get an even texture,” she’d say, and that was important when it came to lasagna de carne, the centerpiece of our family’s annual New Year’s Eve feast. From a young age I considered cooking to be Mami’s domain, and hers alone. Oh, I’d chop beets for the ensalada rusa and grate carrots for the macaroni salad, but I was just following orders until she turned her back and I could return to my novels and video games. Every New Year’s Eve my father would buy almonds and chestnuts, a well-worn nutcracker at the ready. There would P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

FOOD STYLING PEARL JONES

A l l o n t h e Ta b l e

be ice-cold beers and Manischewitz, his preferred holiday wine. With Mami’s alchemy filling the air—garlicky tomatoes smothered in bubbly cheese—we’d begin getting ready. Hair in rollers, button-down shirts, a family of pomp and circumstance even if the only place we’d party was our tiny two-bedroom in Morningside Heights. We greeted the new year as a unit: eyes on the TV, incense in the air, stomachs full. Then came New Year’s Eve 2009. The year we unbecame who we’d been. Back home in New York for winter break, I was with a few sorority sisters when my eldest sibling called: My brother Rob was in the hospital. He’d had another episode. For over a year we’d all watched as Rob struggled. He’d become silent. Fascinated with dark rooms. Full of angry, baseless accusations. He was never violent, but harm comes in many forms. Doctors from NewYork-Presbyterian told us that they believed it was paranoid schizophrenia. We are a Dominican-ass family, quite superstitious. Pennies on our foreheads to stop nosebleeds. Sacraments to guarantee entry to heaven. My mother still strongly believes dreams tell us when someone’s going to die. But we had no experience dealing with mental health. My parents called 911 on December 30. I joined them at the hospital, then went home while they handled the paperwork. The kitchen was in disarray; Mami had been preparing beef for the lasagna when things got hectic. She’d managed to get it into the fridge, but that was all. I don’t know why I did it. We did not have much to celebrate. There were no chestnuts, no music. Perhaps I thought the only thing holding us loosely together was the idea of a better day, a better decade, better care that might result in better health for a beloved. Perhaps I just wanted to scramble toward normal, grasp onto a bit of comfort and routine. So I tried to remember the basic steps: the boiling, the removal of crinkles, the vamping up of jarred tomato sauce. The layers and layers. Alone, I stacked my grief. I cooked through tears. By the time my mother returned from the hospital, I was elbow deep in ground beef. Standing by the door, she watched me with unseeing eyes. So I asked for advice— just to say something, to coax her into familiarity. I asked about the base and she told me to add cilantrico. She talked me through puréeing the garlic. She told me to put un poquito de salsa de tomate here, to make sure the last layer had a perfect capa of mozzarella.

Some time before midnight my father turned on the TV. I wore jeans, pomp and circumstance forgotten. Maybe Mami had on lipstick, but I doubt it. I couldn’t tell you if the lasagna tasted good, or if I tasted it at all. I do remember not having mastered the ability to cook ground meat without clumps, and that it showed in my layers. But my mother ate her serving without critique…or recooking. Then she packed some in Tupperware to take to my brother. Watching a relay race, I’m always drawn to the moment when the two racers run side by side. That second before

the baton gets passed is magical: liminality suspended, a seamless dance begun, letting someone else do the sprinting while you catch your breath. New Year’s Eve wasn’t supposed to be a metaphor, but there we were: me holding my hand over my mother’s and a big metal spoon, breathing deeply and encouraging each other to hold on, to keep stirring. There was a new decade to greet, and despite the heaviness we carried as we entered it, we would need to be well-fed.

Mamá Rosa’s Lasagna de Carne

pepper, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a blender until sofrito is mostly smooth. Heat oil in a large pot over mediumhigh. Cook beef, tomato paste, bay leaves, and sofrito, breaking up meat and stirring often, until liquid is evaporated and meat is starting to brown, 20–25 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in marinara sauce. Season sauce with salt if needed. D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

8 – 10 S E RV I N G S This lasagna packs a wallop of flavor from herby sofrito, which cooks with the ground beef until toasty and caramelized. Stick to regular dried lasagna noodles; they offer a toothsome texture that no-boil noodles can’t match. M E AT S A U C E

½ 1 1 4 2 5 5 2 1 ½ ¼ 1 1 2 1 2 1

red bell pepper, coarsely chopped small onion, coarsely chopped plum tomato, coarsely chopped sprigs cilantro sprigs parsley large black olives, pitted garlic cloves tsp. Italian seasoning tsp. drained capers, rinsed tsp. ground cumin tsp. freshly ground black pepper Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil lb. ground beef chuck (10% fat) Tbsp. tomato paste bay leaves 24-oz. jar marinara sauce ASS E M B LY

3 ½ 8 1 12

Kosher salt garlic cloves, smashed tsp. Italian seasoning oz. dried lasagna noodles Extra-virgin olive oil (for greasing) lb. ricotta Freshly ground black pepper oz. low-moisture mozzarella, coarsely grated (about 3 cups)

M E AT S A U C E Purée bell pepper, onion, tomato, cilantro, parsley, olives, garlic, Italian seasoning, capers, cumin, black

Elizabeth Acevedo is the author of several books, including best seller ‘The Poet X.’

ASS E M B LY Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 350°. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; add garlic and Italian seasoning. Cook noodles, stirring often, until very al dente, about 4 minutes (noodles will finish cooking in oven). Drain noodles and stack flat in layers, separated by parchment; discard garlic. Lightly oil a 13x9" baking dish. Spread a heaping cupful of sauce in dish. Lay a single layer of noodles over sauce. Spread 1 cup sauce over noodles. Season ricotta with salt and pepper; evenly spread half of ricotta over sauce. Scatter one third of mozzarella over top. Repeat layering process. Finish with remaining sauce, followed by remaining mozzarella. Cover with a lightly oiled piece of foil; set on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch drips). Bake lasagna until bubbling around the edges, 40–45 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 425°. Uncover lasagna and continue to bake until top is golden brown, 15–18 minutes more. Let sit 15 minutes before serving. D O A H E A D : Lasagna can be baked 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat in a 250° oven.

D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 – 4 7

A HOL I DAY FEAST recipes by AY E S H A C U R R Y

WITH

photographs by E VA KO L E N KO

AYE S HA CUR RY The actor, cookbook author, and founder of Sweet July magazine turns her family’s nostalgic Jamaican staples into a S E R I O U S L Y C E L E B R AT O R Y S P R E A D 49

Mango and Avocado Salad

BRASS SALAD SERVERS COURTESY PILLAR HOME GOODS

P. 5 4

EDIN SERVING BOWL COURTESY PILLAR HOME GOODS; LAKESHORE GLASSWARE COURTESY SWEET JULY

Charred Cabbage and Carrots

P. 5 4

Sweet Coconut Rice With Pigeon Peas

P. 5 4

Prime Rib Roast With Habanero Crema 52

P. 5 5

BOWL COURTESY SWEET JULY; EDIN SMALL BOWL COURTESY PILLAR HOME GOODS

Rum Cake With Sticky Maple Glaze and Coconut

P. 5 5

A true island-style meal requires something to cool off the palate, Curry says, and this salad does just that with a balance of creamy avocado and sweet ripe mango. Blood oranges add gorgeous color, but you can substitute Cara Cara or Valencia oranges. 6 S E RV I N G S

⅓ ⅓ ¼ 1 1 ½ 1 2 4

2 2 1

cup extra-virgin olive oil cup fresh blood orange juice cup fresh lime juice Tbsp. honey Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. freshly ground black pepper shallot, finely chopped Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro blood oranges, peel and white pith removed, flesh sliced into irregular pieces mangoes, peeled, sliced avocados, peeled, sliced cup halved cherry tomatoes

Whisk oil, blood orange juice, lime juice, honey, salt, and pepper in a small bowl to combine; mix in shallot and cilantro. Arrange blood oranges, mangoes, avocados, and cherry tomatoes on a platter. Drizzle dressing over.

Charred Cabbage and Carrots 8 S E RV I N G S Curry doesn’t think cabbage gets enough credit. The texture, the sweetness, and the way it can transform with spices makes it a win on the table.

⅓ 2 2 1 2 2

2 1 4 6 ¼ 4

cup fresh lime juice Tbsp. pure maple syrup sprigs thyme, leaves picked tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Tbsp. plus ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more medium head of green cabbage (about 3 lb.), outer leaves removed, cored, remaining leaves torn into 3" pieces large carrots, peeled, thinly sliced into rounds shallot, thinly sliced garlic cloves, thinly sliced whole allspice cup low-sodium vegetable broth scallions, dark and pale green parts only, sliced on a diagonal

Whisk lime juice, maple syrup, thyme leaves, red pepper flakes, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl to combine; season dressing with salt. Set aside. Heat remaining ⅓ cup oil in a large heavy pot over high. Add half of cabbage, sprinkle in 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and cook, turning over once, until tender and charred in spots, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining cabbage and salt. Return cabbage to pot. Add carrots, shallot, garlic, and allspice, then pour in broth. Cover; cook until cabbage and carrots are tender, 6–8 minutes. Remove from heat. Drizzle in reserved dressing and stir to combine. Transfer to a large shallow bowl and top with scallions.

Sweet Coconut Rice With Pigeon Peas 8 S E RV I N G S When Curry was growing up, holidays meant rice and peas every time. Enriched with coconut milk and ginger, this dish is made for soaking up all of the juices from the prime rib and cabbage but also works great on its own as a one-plate vegan lunch or supper. Curry’s advice? Make a double batch. You’ll want leftovers.

2 1 1 1

cups jasmine rice shallot, finely chopped garlic clove, finely chopped 2"-piece ginger peeled, finely chopped 2 15-oz. cans pigeon peas, rinsed

OPENER: DRESS BY LISA FOLAWIYO; EARRINGS AND CUFF BY SYLVIA TOLEDANO SHOPMCMULLEN.COM; BRASS NAPKIN RINGS COURTESY PILLAR HOME GOODS. THIS PAGE: SWEATER BY PETAR PETROV; EARRINGS BY LIZZIE FORTUNATO SHOPMCMULLEN.COM. SPICE JARS AND OLIVE OIL COURTESY SWEET JULY.

Mango and Avocado Salad

1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar ¼ tsp. dried thyme ¼ tsp. ground allspice ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper Chopped parsley (for serving)

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTION BY RACHEL LASSERRE. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. SET DESIGN BY KIRA CORBIN. ON SET PRODUCER: JENNIFER THOMAS. WARDROBE STYLING BY SHERRI MCMULLEN. HAIR BY SONIA COSEY. MAKEUP BY ASHLEY BIAS. MINT LOCATIONS/JENNIFER ROBIN INTERIORS.

Rinse rice in a fine-mesh sieve under cold water until water runs mostly clear. Transfer to a medium saucepan. Add shallot, garlic, ginger, peas, coconut milk, salt, brown sugar, thyme, allspice, pepper, and 1½ cups water. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and cook until all of the liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, 18–20 minutes. Fluff rice using a fork. Transfer to a large shallow bowl and top with parsley.

Prime Rib Roast With Habanero Crema 8 S E RV I N G S Oxtail has been Curry’s favorite dish since she was a kid, and this recipe is inspired by the one her mom served at Sunday dinners. It has all the same flavors but is repackaged for party drama in the form of a showstopping prime rib roast. Be sure to rest the meat before slicing for maximum juiciness and tenderness.

2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 4 tsp. Morton kosher salt Fresh bay leaves (for serving; optional) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

H A B A N E R O C R E M A Blend chile, sour cream, cilantro, horseradish, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl and chill until ready to use. D O A H E A D : Crema can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled.

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325°. Coarsely grind fennel seeds, garlic powder, caraway seeds, thyme, paprika, and peppercorns in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle. Place roast on a rimmed baking sheet. Rub with oil and season all over with salt. Sprinkle spice rub over, ensuring all sides of beef are coated. Chill roast, uncovered, 8 hours. Heat a dry large cast-iron skillet over medium-high; cook beef until browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer skillet to oven and roast beef until an instantread thermometer registers 120°–125°, about 2 hours. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 20 minutes. Transfer roast to a platter; tuck bay leaves around if desired. Serve sliced with habanero crema.

Rum Cake With Sticky Maple Glaze and Coconut 12 S E RV I N G S This cake is moist and delectable—a cheer-inducing upgrade to typical pound cake thanks to a sticky maple glaze, toasted coconut, and rum. CAKE

3 cup fennel seeds cup garlic powder Tbsp. caraway seeds Tbsp. dried thyme Tbsp. smoked paprika Tbsp. black peppercorns 7-lb. bone-in prime rib roast, chine bone removed, fat trimmed to ¼", tied with kitchen twine 2 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil

G L A Z E A N D A S S E M B LY

½ cup dark rum ½ cup pure maple syrup 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter Whipped coconut cream or cream with finely grated lime zest and/or ground cherries or fresh berries (for serving; optional) A 12-cup Bundt pan

R O AS T A N D ASS E M B LY

¼ ¼ 2 2 2 2 1

large eggs cup vegetable oil cup spiced rum tsp. vanilla extract cup sweetened shredded coconut

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle

HABANERO CREMA

1 habanero chile, seeds removed, finely chopped 1 cup sour cream ½ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems 2 Tbsp. drained prepared horseradish 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

4 ½ ½ 2 1

1 2 ½ ½ 1 1 1½

Nonstick vegetable oil spray or unsalted butter (for pan) cups (375 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for pan 3.4-oz. box instant vanilla pudding tsp. baking powder tsp. baking soda tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. ground allspice cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature cups (packed; 300 g) dark brown sugar

Place a rack in upper third of oven and preheat to 350°. Generously coat pan with nonstick spray, then dust with flour, tapping out excess. Whisk pudding mix, baking powder, baking soda, salt, allspice, and 3 cups (375 g) flour in a medium bowl to combine. Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat butter in a large bowl until light and smooth, about 1 minute. Gradually add brown sugar, mixing to combine after each addition; beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, oil, rum, and vanilla and beat until incorporated. Reduce speed to low and gradually add dry ingredients in 2 additions, beating just until combined after each addition and scraping down sides of bowl as needed (be careful not to overmix). Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth surface. Bake cake until golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50—55 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake cool in pan 10 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack, loosening with a small offset spatula if needed and let cool completely. Meanwhile, toast coconut in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Let cool. G L A Z E A N D ASS E M B LY Bring rum, maple syrup, and butter to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook until thick enough to coat a spoon, about 8 minutes. Transfer glaze to a small bowl. Transfer cake to a large plate. Drizzle glaze over and sprinkle coconut on top. Cut cake into slices and serve topped with whipped coconut cream with lime and/or ground cherries if desired.

Take a page from our favorite new cookbooks with S E V E N S P E C TA C U L A R H O L I D A Y C O O K I E S photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

Cookbook Cookies mericans call them cookies. The Brits prefer the term biscuits. You might even call them “dippity sugar dunks”—a bit odd, but we’re not here to judge. We’re here to give you what you want: a fun and festive lineup of seven craveable cookie recipes from some of the most notable cookbooks released this year. Want a nostalgic treat with a vibrant twist? Look no further than Jesse Szewczyk’s Pink

A 56

Grapefruit Sugar Cookies (page 60), a citrusy take on the grocery store classic. In the market for something chewy, gooey, and gluten-free? Then the poppable Coconut-Peanut Mochi Balls from Kristina Cho (page 65) are meant for you. Whether you’re stuffing bespoke containers full to send to the in-laws or stashing them away for yourself, there’s a celebratory cookie here for every kind of connoisseur. — C H A L A T Y S O N T S H I T U N D U

Pink Grapefruit Sugar Cookies From Cookies: The New Classics by Jesse Szewczyk P. 60

Galletitas de Cebada Tostada y Mermelada From Colombiana by Mariana Velásquez P. 64

Thandai Shortbread Cookies From Mumbai Modern by Amisha Dodhia Gurbani P. 61

Pink Grapefruit Sugar Cookies M A K E S A B O U T 2 4 Soft grocery-store-style cookies get a makeover in Jesse Szewczyk’s book ‘Cookies: The New Classics.’ Fresh grapefruit zest keeps the cookies zippy and offsets the sweetness of the fluffy frosting. Use a little gel food coloring (or a lot!) in the frosting to customize your shade. COOKIES

2¾ ¼ ¾ ¾ ½ 2 1 ½ 1 ⅓ 1

cups (344 g) all-purpose flour cup (30 g) cornstarch tsp. baking powder tsp. baking soda tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. finely grated grapefruit zest cup (200 g) granulated sugar cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature large egg cup sour cream, room temperature Tbsp. vanilla extract F R O S T I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

4 cups (440 g) powdered sugar, sifted ½ cup heavy cream ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 tsp. finely grated grapefruit zest 1 tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt Red (or any color) gel food coloring and sprinkles (for decorating) C O O K I E S Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Whisk together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat grapefruit zest, sugar, and butter in a large bowl until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg, sour cream, and vanilla and beat to incorporate, about 2 minutes (the mixture might look curdled, and that’s okay). Reduce speed to low and beat in dry ingredients until just combined. Using a #30 cookie scoop (about 2 Tbsp.) and working one at a time, scoop out portions of dough and roll into balls (you should have about 24). Divide between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing at least 3" apart. Gently flatten cookies to about 1½" in diameter.

Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway though, until edges are light golden but tops are still pale, 11–13 minutes. Let cookies cool 5 minutes on baking sheets, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked 5 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature. Using an electric mixer on low speed, beat powdered sugar, cream, butter, grapefruit zest, vanilla, and salt in a large bowl until combined. Increase speed to high and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Using a toothpick or skewer, add a small drop of food coloring to frosting, then beat to combine. FROSTING AND ASSEMBLY

Spoon 1 heaping Tbsp. frosting onto each cookie; use a spoon or offset spatula to create swirls. Decorate cookies with sprinkles. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be frosted and decorated 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Ginger-Almond Florentines M A K E S A B O U T 16 Nadiya Hussain, a winner of ‘The Great British Bake Off,’ describes these florentines best in her book ‘Nadiya Bakes’: “brandy snap meets cookie meets toffee.” Based on a simple batter full of almonds and crystallized ginger, these cookies bake into lacy rounds. For the most even spread, don’t forget to press down on the cookies before baking.

Ginger-Almond Florentines From Nadiya Bakes by Nadiya Hussain

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ cup (packed; 50 g) light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. light corn syrup ½ cup (75 g) crystallized ginger slices, finely chopped ½ cup (50 g) sliced almonds ⅓ cup (45 g) all-purpose flour 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 6 oz. bittersweet chocolate (preferably 65%–75%), chopped 2 oz. high-quality white chocolate, chopped Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Heat butter, brown sugar, and corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium, stirring often with a heatproof spatula, until butter is melted and brown sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in ginger, almonds, flour, orange zest, and salt. Using a #60 or #70 cookie scoop (about 1 Tbsp.), portion out batter on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing at least 3" apart (8 cookies per sheet). With dampened fingers, press each cookie into a 2" disk. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Using the rim of an inverted glass, nudge edges of cookies into neat circles and separate any if needed. Transfer cookies, still on parchment, to wire racks and let cool. Melt bittersweet chocolate in a small heatproof bowl set over a small saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let bowl touch water), stirring occasionally, until glossy and smooth. (Alternatively, melt in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave in 20-second increments, stirring after each, about 1 minute total.) Repeat process with white chocolate. Drizzle about one third of white chocolate over bittersweet chocolate and mix together with a skewer or chopstick to create large swirls (don’t overmix or swirls will disappear). Working one at a time, dip one third of each cookie into swirled chocolate, then transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. As you work, swirl in more white chocolate as needed to maintain a distinct pattern. Let cookies sit until chocolate is set, 30–45 minutes.

D O A H E A D : Cookies can be made 2 days ahead. Stack in an airtight container, separating layers with parchment paper, and chill.

Thandai Shortbread Cookies Think of thandai— popular at Holi celebrations in northern India—as a spiced milk punch. In this recipe from her book ‘Mumbai Modern,’ Amisha Dodhia Gurbani mixes some of the masala used for thandai into tendercrisp butter cookies, where its flavor blooms in the heat of the oven. Use leftover thandai masala to flavor hot chocolate, eggnog, or apple pie or to sprinkle over your morning oatmeal or yogurt. MAKES ABOUT 30

T H A N DA I M AS A L A

½ 1 5 2 1 1½ ¼ ⅛ ⅛ 1 1 1 1

star anise pod ½" cinnamon stick green cardamom pods whole cloves Tbsp. dried rose petals tsp. fennel seeds tsp. ground nutmeg tsp. black peppercorns tsp. saffron threads Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. raw almonds Tbsp. poppy seeds Tbsp. raw cashews Tbsp. raw pistachios, preferably Persian or Sicilian C O O K I E S A N D ASS E M B LY

10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup (100 g) sugar 1½ tsp. vanilla extract 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 cup (170 g) high-quality white chocolate chips 1 tsp. refined coconut oil ¼ cup (30 g) raw pistachios, preferably Persian or Sicilian, chopped 1 Tbsp. dried rose petals, crushed S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill; a plain or fluted 2"-diameter cookie cutter T H A N DA I M AS A L A Finely grind star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, rose petals, fennel seeds, nutmeg, peppercorns, and saffron in spice mill to a powder. Transfer spice mixture to a small bowl.

Working in batches if needed, finely grind almonds, poppy seeds, cashews, and pistachios in spice mill (but not so finely ground that the nuts turn to butter). Whisk nut mixture into spice mixture until well combined. D O A H E A D : Thandai masala can be made 3 weeks ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill. C O O K I E S A N D A S S E M B LY Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter, sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl until light and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add flour, salt, and 5 Tbsp. (35 g) thandai masala and beat on low speed until just combined. Pat dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic. Chill until firm, at least 2 hours. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Roll out dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper to ¼" thick. Transfer dough, still sandwiched between parchment, to a baking sheet and freeze until just firm, 10–15 minutes. Slide dough onto a surface and carefully peel away top sheet of parchment. Punch out cookies as close together as possible with cutter and divide between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing 1½" apart. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden, 14–16 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes on baking sheets, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely; reserve baking sheets with parchment. Repeat process with dough scraps (chill dough again before punching out more cookies). Melt white chocolate and oil in a small heatproof bowl set over a small saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let bowl touch water), stirring occasionally, until glossy and smooth. (Alternatively, melt in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave in 20-second increments, stirring after each, about 1 minute total.) Dip one third of each cookie into white chocolate and transfer to reserved baking sheets. Scatter pistachios and rose petals over white chocolate. Freeze cookies until chocolate is set, about 5 minutes. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 week ahead; keep chilled. Cookies can be baked (but not glazed) 10 days ahead or glazed 2 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature.

Cocoa-Coffee Almond Cookies From Italian American by Angie Rito & Scott Tacinelli P. 64

Iced Spiced Hermits From Baking With Dorie by Dorie Greenspan P. 64

Chewy and dark with molasses, these spicy hermits lie somewhere between a cake and a cookie. Dorie Greenspan’s version, from her book ‘Baking With Dorie,’ includes cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper. Don’t like raisins? Try other plump dried fruit like currants, cranberries, or chopped figs. MAKES ABOUT 24

2 1½ 1½ 1 ¾ ½ ¼ ¼ 1 ½ 1 ¼ ½

cups (250 g) all-purpose flour tsp. ground cinnamon tsp. ground ginger tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. baking soda tsp. freshly grated nutmeg tsp. baking powder tsp. freshly ground black pepper cup (packed; 200 g) light brown sugar cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature large egg cup mild-flavored (light) molasses cup (80 g) golden raisins G L A Z E A N D ASS E M B LY

1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar, sifted 2 Tbsp. (or more) milk, fresh lemon juice, or rum C O O K I E S Whisk together flour, cinnamon, ginger, salt, baking soda, nutmeg, baking powder, and pepper in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat brown sugar and butter until light and creamy, about 3 minutes. Beat in egg and molasses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients; beat until just combined. Add raisins and mix just to evenly distribute. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Divide dough in half and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Using wet hands, shape dough into two 12"-long logs (a plastic bowl scraper is helpful for this) and arrange on opposing long sides of baking sheet, spacing 2"–3" from long edges. Lightly flatten top of each log. Bake logs until edges are just set but centers are still soft, 23–26 minutes (logs will spread and crack). Let cool.

G L A Z E A N D ASS E M B LY Whisk powdered sugar and milk in a small bowl until smooth. Glaze should be thick but pourable; thin with more milk if needed. Drizzle glaze erratically over logs; let sit until set, at least 30 minutes. Using a serrated knife, slice logs crosswise 1" thick (or slice 2" thick and cut in half down the center for a squarish cookie). D O A H E A D : Cookies can be assembled 4 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, just until puffed and cracked and edges are set (cookies will look slightly underbaked between the cracks), 12–14 minutes. Let cool on baking sheets. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 3 days ahead; cover and chill. Cookies can be made 4 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature. B A K E T H E C OV E R

Cocoa-Coffee Almond Cookies These cookies from Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli’s book, ‘Italian American,’ crack dramatically as they bake, revealing a deeply fudgy interior. Almond paste makes the cookies extra toothsome and coffee adds, as the cookbook says, “a savory note that complements the chocolate and nut flavors well.” M A K E S A B O U T 12

6½ oz. almond paste (about ¾ cup) 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar ⅓ cup (30 g) unsweetened Dutchprocess cocoa powder 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 tsp. instant espresso powder 2 large egg whites ⅔ cup (84 g) all-purpose flour ¾ cup (83 g) powdered sugar, sifted

Galletitas de Cebada Tostada y Mermelada For this recipe from her book ‘Colombiana,’ Mariana Velásquez offers a version of linzer cookies using barley flour that gets toasted until nutty. Find barley flour online. In a pinch, substitute oat, sorghum, or millet flour. MAKES ABOUT 22

½ cup (60 g) barley flour 2½ cups (313 g) all-purpose flour 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¼ tsp. baking powder 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 large egg ½ cup apricot jam ¼ cup (28 g) powdered sugar, sifted S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Assorted 2½" and

1" cookie cutters Pulse almond paste in a food processor until broken up into small pieces. Add granulated sugar, cocoa powder, salt, and espresso powder and pulse, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until mixture is well combined and mostly powdery with a few small clumps. Add egg whites and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Pulse in flour until just combined. Transfer dough to a medium bowl; fold in any dry spots with a rubber spatula if needed. Cover and chill at least 1 hour. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Put powdered sugar in a shallow bowl. Using a #30 cookie scoop (about 2 Tbsp.) and working one at a time, scoop out portions of dough and roll into balls (you should have about 12). Working quickly, roll balls in powdered sugar to coat. Divide between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 3" apart.

Toast barley flour in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until darkened slightly and nutty-smelling, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in all-purpose flour, salt, and baking powder. Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Scrape in vanilla seeds (reserve pod for another use). Add egg and beat to incorporate, scraping down bowl as needed, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients; beat until just combined. Divide dough in half and pat into disks; wrap tightly in plastic. Chill just until dough is easy to roll out and no longer sticky, 30–45 minutes. Working with one disk at a time, roll out dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper to ⅛" thick (dough will come nearly to the edges of parchment).

COOKIE RECIPES EXCERPTED FROM COOKIES: THE NEW CLASSICS (CLARKSON POTTER); COLOMBIANA (HARPER WAVE); MUMBAI MODERN (COUNTRYMAN PRESS); NADIYA BAKES (CLARKSON POTTER); ITALIAN AMERICAN (CLARKSON POTTER); BAKING WITH DORIE (MARINER BOOKS); AND MOONCAKES AND MILK BREAD (HARPER HORIZON). ALL COPYRIGHT © 2021

Iced Spiced Hermits

If dough becomes too sticky, chill another 10–15 minutes. Stack sheets of dough, still sandwiched between parchment, and slide onto a baking sheet. Chill until very firm, at least 1 hour. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Unstack dough sheets and transfer to a surface; carefully peel away top sheet of parchment paper from each; reserve parchment. Punch out cookies as close together as possible with larger cutters. Punch out centers from half of cookies with smaller cutters; remove scraps. Re-cover cookies with reserved parchment paper and restack on baking sheet; freeze until firm, 10–15 minutes. Using a small offset spatula, divide half of cookies between 2 parchmentlined baking sheets, spacing 1" apart.

Cover and chill remaining cookies while first batch bakes. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until pale golden brown and edges are set, 8–10 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes on baking sheets, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. Repeat with remaining cookies. Spoon 1 tsp. apricot jam onto center of whole cookies. Dust cutout cookies with powdered sugar and place, sugar side up, on top of whole cookies so jam peeks through cutout. D O A H E A D : Dough can be rolled out 2 weeks ahead; stack, sandwiched between parchment, on a baking sheet, wrap in plastic, and freeze. Cookies can be assembled 5 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature.

Coconut-Peanut Mochi Balls M A K E S 2 0 In her book ‘Mooncakes and Milk Bread,’ Kristina Cho describes these mochi balls as sweet dumplings. Coconut milk keeps the mochi skins soft and chewy for days, while the crunchy-creamy filling bounces between sweet and salty. MOCHI

1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk 1½ cups (225 g) glutinous rice flour 1 cup (200 g) sugar Cornstarch (for dusting) F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

1½ cups (180 g) unsalted roasted peanuts ⅓ cup (90 g) creamy peanut butter 3 Tbsp. honey 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¾ cup unsweetened shredded coconut S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A silicone

baking mat M O C H I Whisk together coconut milk, rice flour, and sugar in a medium nonstick saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until a thick, smooth, slightly sticky dough forms, 5–7 minutes (the dough will pull away from sides of pan). Generously dust silicone baking mat with cornstarch. Transfer hot mochi to mat and generously dust top with more cornstarch. Roll out mochi to a 15x12" rectangle. Let cool.

FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES

Coconut-Peanut Mochi Balls From Mooncakes and Milk Bread by Kristina Cho

F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Pulse peanuts, peanut butter, honey, and salt in a food processor until mixture resembles very chunky peanut butter. Transfer filling to a small bowl. Place shredded coconut in a shallow bowl. Cut mochi into twenty 3" squares. Using a #60 or #70 cookie scoop (about 1 Tbsp.), divide filling among mochi squares (save any remaining filling for toast or smoothies). Stretch mochi around filling to encase, then pinch together to seal; roll between your palms into smooth balls. Working one at a time, roll balls in coconut (if coconut doesn’t stick, brush or spritz mochi lightly with water, then reroll). D O A H E A D : Mochi balls can be made 5 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Inspiration (and recipes!) for whatever kind of get-together suits your fancy

THE HOLIDAY COCKTAIL PARTY, THREE WAYS

Maple-Za’atar Kettle Corn P. 72

The Casual

Gathering

I M A G I N E W I T H U S : You’re throwing your first holiday party in what is actually years. You’re not really sure how to socialize again (welcome to the club!). Then you watch your guests gravitate to the bar and something changes. You see a friend pouring a cup of punch for someone they just met and two acquaintances bonding over a shared secret (they’re just here for the food). And suddenly, you’re hosting. The key to unlocking this off-the-cuff intimacy is a festive drink and satisfying snacks that keep guests coming back: a maple-za’atar kettle corn and a burbling skillet of French-onion-soup-inspired dip. b y E LYS E I N A M I N E

P. 72

photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

Creamy French Onion Dip

r e c i p e s b y A N DY B A R A G H A N I , Z AY N A B I S S A , A N D K E N D R A VA C U L I N

Cranberry Rum Punch

Celery and Salted Lemon Cocktail P. 73

Curried Egg Tartines P. 73

Date and Gorgonzola Scones P. 72

Day-After-the-BigHoliday-Dinner Brunch The

S O M E T I M E S T H E P A R T Y S P I L L S O V E R into the next day, which is what inspired this hair-of-the-dog menu. It begins with the necessary carbs to soften the blow of last night’s decisions: salty-sweet scones that balance caramelly dates with salty-funky Gorgonzola and curried egg tartines that your guests can assemble themselves once they roll out of bed. But the star of this menu picks up where the party left off: a celery and salted lemon vodka soda anchored by the most ridiculous (and fortifying) garnish—whatever tinned seafood you have (mussels, boquerones), pickled chiles, a cube of Manchego, and a big lemon wedge. Ah, the holidays.

The

Intimate Hang

I F H AV I N G J U S T A H A N D F U L O F F R I E N D S over is more your speed, we got you. Not every cocktail party needs to be boisterous or even boozy. Instead, invite your pod (remember those?!) or a few folks you haven’t been able to spend enough time with for a cozy gathering. Catch up and stay clearheaded throughout the night with this zero-proof spiced blood orange shrub (but if you want a little something-something, just add 1.5 ounces of vodka or whiskey to each glass). Here we’re taking things slow, sinking into conversations we’ve missed, snacking on fried olives and meaty skewers, and letting the night guide us.

Spiced Blood Orange Shrub

Crispy Olives With Calabrian Chile Sauce

Peppery Antipasto Skewers

Crispy Olives With Calabrian Chile Sauce 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S If you thought olives couldn’t get more exciting (same), you’re wrong. Try coating them in crispy breadcrumbs, frying them until deep golden brown, and dipping them in a Calabrian chile sauce. We’re using a prestuffed olive to keep things easy, but you can switch up the type of olive you use and experiment with different stuffings.

Pour oil into a large heavy high-sided skillet to come 1½" up sides. Heat oil over medium-high until an instant-read thermometer registers 400°. Working in batches to avoid crowding the pan and returning oil to 400° after each batch, very carefully lower 10–15 olives into skillet with a slotted spoon and cook until deep golden brown, 1–2 minutes. Transfer olives to paper towels with slotted spoon; sprinkle with sea salt. Let cool 5 minutes, then serve on a plate with sauce.

VINTAGE GREEN DECANTER (OPENING SPREAD) COURTESY OF ROSEMARY HOME. VINTAGE VASE AND CANDLEHOLDER (PREVIOUS SPREAD) COURTESY OF ROSEMARY HOME.

SAUCE

1½–2Tbsp. Calabrian chile paste (depending on heat preference) 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste ½ tsp. honey ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt O L I V E S A N D ASS E M B LY

8 oz. stuffed green olives, preferably with garlic or cheese ¼ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup cornstarch ½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 1 cup panko Vegetable oil (for frying; 4–5 cups) Flaky sea salt S A U C E Mix chile paste, oil, vinegar, tomato paste, honey, and salt in a small bowl to combine. Cover and chill. D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled. O L I V E S A N D ASS E M B LY Drain olives in a fine-mesh sieve, discarding any liquid. Thoroughly pat each olive dry (moisture can prevent coating from sticking or cause excess splattering during frying). Whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder, ¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ⅛ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¼ cup water in a medium bowl to make the batter. Combine panko and remaining ¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ⅛ tsp. Morton kosher salt in another medium bowl. Rub some of the panko between your fingers to create a finer texture. Working with about 5 olives at a time, add to batter and turn to coat. Transfer olives to seasoned panko mixture and turn to coat completely, pressing firmly to adhere. Place on a rimmed baking sheet.

Peppery Antipasto Skewers 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S Infinitely adaptable, these oh-so-easy antipasto skewers are simple yet bold. There’s lots of room to play around with different mixes of proteins, cheeses, and briny bits—just don’t skimp on the black pepper.

1 1½-lb. boneless rib-eye steak, room temperature Kosher salt 1½ tsp. coarsely ground black pepper, plus more 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 8 oz. semifirm cheese (such as cheddar or Comté), cut into ¾" cubes 4 oz. pickled sweet cherry peppers or peperoncini, cut into ¾" pieces Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) Flaky sea salt S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Six 4" skewers

Pat steak dry with paper towels and generously season all over with kosher salt and 1½ tsp. black pepper (or more if you like). Let sit 15 minutes. Heat oil in a medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Cook steak, undisturbed, until a deep golden brown crust forms underneath, about 3 minutes. Turn over and repeat on second side until browned, about 3 minutes. If steak has a fat cap, stand it on its side with tongs and cook until browned, about 3 minutes (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part should register 120° for medium-rare). Transfer to a cutting board; let rest 15 minutes. Slice steak against the grain ⅛"–¼" thick. Working with 1 skewer at a time, thread skewer through a strip of steak near a short end. Slide a cube of cheese, then a piece of cherry pepper onto skewer. Thread opposite side of steak

onto skewer to close. Push steak, cheese, and cherry pepper snugly against one another to form a compact bundle situated toward the tip of the skewer. Arrange skewers on a large plate. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper.

Spiced Blood Orange Shrub 8 S E RV I N G S Warm spices and winter citrus come together to make this punchy, spicy shrub with a soft orangey hue. While we’d be shocked if you missed the alcohol, you can spike each drink with about 1½ oz. vodka or whiskey if you do. And if you can’t get your hands on blood oranges, use orange zest and blood orange juice or a mix of 3 oranges and 1 lemon to mimic the sweet and slightly tangy flavor of blood oranges.

4 medium blood oranges 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, coarsely chopped 1 3" cinnamon stick 6 cloves ½ cup sugar ¼ cup (or more) apple cider vinegar Club soda (for serving) Remove zest from blood oranges in wide strips with a vegetable peeler, leaving as much pith behind as possible. Set half of zest aside for serving. Slice oranges in half; squeeze juice through a fine-mesh sieve set over a measuring glass or small bowl (you should have about 1 cup juice). Discard pulp and seeds; set juice aside. Bring ginger, cinnamon stick, cloves, sugar, remaining blood orange zest, and 1 cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved and mixture is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Let cool, then strain syrup through a clean fine-mesh sieve into a clean measuring glass; discard solids. Stir vinegar and reserved blood orange juice into syrup. Taste shrub— it should be a well-balanced sweetand-sour flavor; add more vinegar by the tablespoon if needed. To serve, pour 3 Tbsp. shrub into each of 8 ice-filled glasses. Top off each with 4–5 oz. club soda and stir gently to combine. Garnish with reserved zest. D O A H E A D : Shrub can be made 6 weeks ahead. Pour into a 1-pint glass jar; cover and chill.

Maple-Za’atar Kettle Corn Kettle corn is undeniably delicious, so there’s no reason to mess with it—unless the alternative is utterly showstopping. Enter this maple-za’atar kettle corn, which is sweet, salty, and earthy and punched up in all the best ways thanks to the za’atar. 4 S E RV I N G S

4 ½ 3 2 1 1

tsp. ghee or clarified butter cup popcorn kernels Tbsp. pure maple syrup tsp. za’atar tsp. Aleppo-style pepper tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt

Melt ghee in a large light pot with a lid over medium-high heat (make sure entire bottom of pan is coated with fat). Add a few popcorn kernels. As soon as they begin to pop, add remaining kernels, cover, and cook, vigorously shaking pot to keep kernels moving so they don’t burn, until just-added kernels begin to pop. Remove lid and drizzle in maple syrup. Cover pot and continue to cook popcorn, shaking pot, until most of kernels have popped and the rate of popping has significantly slowed (you should only hear an occasional pop), about 4 minutes. Don’t worry if all the kernels don’t pop. Carefully transfer popcorn to a large bowl, sprinkle za’atar, Aleppo-style pepper, and salt over. Toss popcorn with a wooden spoon to coat. D O A H E A D : Kettle corn can be made 5 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

Creamy French Onion Dip 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S Think of this crowd-pleaser as the love child of French onion soup and French onion dip. Combining the best of both worlds creates an ooeygooey, salty, tangy Gruyère-filled dip with sweet jammy caramelized onions. Gruyère is classic for that French onion soup flavor, but any fairly firm cheese like cheddar or Gouda will work—you can even mix and match if you’d like.

1 sprig thyme, plus more for serving 1¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 8 oz. cream cheese, room temperature ¾ cup mayonnaise ¾ cup sour cream 1 lb. Gruyère, coarsely grated, divided (about 4 cups) Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup panko 1 baguette, sliced 2 pears, sliced 2 red endive, leaves separated Preheat oven to 350°. Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Add onions, garlic, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, 1 thyme sprig, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden and jammy, 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, stir cream cheese, mayonnaise, and sour cream in a large bowl to combine (a few lumps are okay). Remove bay leaves and thyme sprig from onions; discard. Transfer onions to cream cheese mixture. Add 3 cups Gruyère and season with pepper; stir to combine. Transfer dip to an 8" cast-iron skillet or 2-qt. ovenproof baking dish and spread into an even layer with a rubber spatula. Toss panko, remaining Gruyère, remaining 1½ tsp. oil, and remaining ¼ tsp. salt in a medium bowl to combine, then sprinkle over dip. Bake until heated through and top is lightly browned, 25–30 minutes. Heat broiler. Broil dip until bubbling and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. Scatter more thyme over dip and serve with baguette, pears, and endive alongside for dipping. D O A H E A D : Dip (without panko mixture) can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Top with panko mixture just before baking.

Cranberry Rum Punch This fall-flavored punch is very simple to throw together, so go the extra mile and make festive cranberrystudded ice, which serves as a garnish and temperature control in one. A mix of whole and thinly sliced berries looks best—any ice tray will work. Depending 8 S E RV I N G S

3 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 5 medium sweet onions, thinly sliced 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 bay leaves ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

on the sweetness of your ginger ale and hard cider, you might not need the simple syrup, but it will be worth making to have on hand for other cocktails (a pre-feast Whiskey Smash? An NYE French 75? We could go on). 1 1 1 3 2

cup fresh or frozen cranberries cup sugar 750-ml bottle white rum cups dry hard cider cups unsweetened 100% cranberry juice 1 cup ginger ale ¼ cup fresh lime juice Thinly slice about a third of the cranberries and leave remaining berries whole. Fill sections of an ice cube tray with berries, then pour in water to fill. Repeat with more trays as needed until you have used all of the cranberries. Freeze until solid. Meanwhile, bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, whisking until sugar is dissolved. Let simple syrup cool. Stir rum, cider, cranberry juice, ginger ale, lime juice, 3 tsp. simple syrup, and some cranberry ice in a pitcher or punch bowl. Taste punch; add more syrup if needed. Fill 8 glasses with remaining cranberry ice and pour punch over. D O A H E A D : Cranberry ice and simple syrup can be made 1 month ahead. Transfer ice to a resealable plastic bag and keep frozen. Transfer simple syrup to an airtight container and chill.

Date and Gorgonzola Scones M A K E S 12 These mostly savory scones are packed with just enough caramelly, chewy Medjool dates to balance lots of crumbled blue cheese that melts into the flaky, buttery layers. They are just as good with a salty cocktail as with tea or coffee.

1 Tbsp. baking powder 1 Tbsp. sugar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¼ tsp. ground nutmeg 3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for surface ½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, coarsely grated 1 large egg 1 tsp. vanilla extract ¾ cup chilled heavy cream, plus more for brushing

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE.

7 Medjool dates, pitted, cut into ¼" pieces 4 oz. Gorgonzola, crumbled ¾ tsp. flaky sea salt ¾ tsp. freshly cracked black pepper, plus more Mascarpone or clotted cream and honey (for serving) Preheat oven to 400°. Whisk baking powder, sugar, salt, nutmeg, and 3 cups (375 g) flour in a large bowl to combine. Add butter and toss well to coat and evenly distribute. Whisk egg, vanilla, and ¾ cup cream in a small bowl to combine. Add dates and Gorgonzola and mix gently to coat. Scrape into dry ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until dough just begins to come together with a few bits of dry flour remaining. Using your hands, knead dough in the bowl until it comes together. Transfer dough and any loose flour to a lightly floured surface. Flatten to ¾" thick (the shape doesn’t matter). Using a knife, cut into 4 pieces, stack pieces on top of each other, and flatten dough into a ¾"-thick 8" square (this process will create flaky layers when the scones are baked). Cut dough in half lengthwise, then cut each half into thirds crosswise to form six 3" squares. Cut each square in half on a diagonal to make 12 triangles total. (Alternatively, you can use a 2½"-diameter biscuit cutter to punch out scones. Gather scraps and repeat, patting and cutting, until you have 12 scones.) Transfer scones to a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing 1½" apart, and chill, uncovered, at least 15 minutes. Brush scones with cream and sprinkle with sea salt and ¾ tsp. pepper. Bake until tops are golden brown, 18–20 minutes. Transfer scones to a wire rack and let cool. To serve, arrange scones on a platter and serve with mascarpone and honey in small bowls and more pepper for topping as desired. D O A H E A D : Scones can be formed 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled.

Curried Egg Tartines 4 S E RV I N G S While we would eat a plain slice of crispy fried bread, one with a pile of creamy curried egg salad and herbs is way more exciting. This egg salad is ultra-lush thanks to the earthiness of curry powder, the richness of Kewpie

mayonnaise (it’s made with more egg yolks than traditional mayo, but you can sub with another mayo plus an extra pinch of salt), and the bright tanginess of the mixed herb salad. We like Madras curry powder because it has a bit of extra heat, but you can use regular curry powder and cayenne pepper to your taste if you prefer. 8 large eggs 3 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced (optional) 1 cup coarsely chopped tender herbs (such as parsley, chives, and/or dill) 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided Juice of 1 lemon 3 scallions 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 thick slices country-style bread (such as ciabatta or sourdough) 1½ tsp. curry powder (preferably Madras) ½ cup Kewpie mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Flaky sea salt Aleppo-style pepper (for serving) Using a slotted spoon, carefully lower eggs into a large saucepan of gently boiling water one at a time. Cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a gentle boil, 9 minutes. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, place radishes (if using), herbs, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl. Drizzle lemon juice over and toss to combine; set herb salad aside. Separate dark green tops from scallions and thinly slice; set aside. Thinly slice remaining white and pale green parts; set aside separately. Gently crack eggs all over and peel, starting from the wider end, which contains the air pocket; discard shells. Coarsely chop eggs (keep pieces large). Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Add 2 slices of bread and cook until golden and crisp underneath, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plates and arrange fried side up. Repeat with another 1 Tbsp. oil and remaining slices of bread. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in same skillet and cook curry powder and reserved scallion white and pale green parts, stirring occasionally, until slightly

softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer scallions to a large bowl, add mayonnaise, mustard, and remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and mix to combine. Add eggs and reserved scallion greens and gently fold to envelop eggs in dressing. To serve, top fried bread with egg salad and herb salad. Sprinkle with sea salt and Aleppo-style pepper. D O A H E A D : Egg salad can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Celery and Salted Lemon Cocktail 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S A slight riff on a Salty Dog, this recipe uses puréed celery and preserved lemon as a juicy base. Pro tip: Celery leaves impart lots of flavor, so don’t skip them! If you’re not making preserved lemons at home (we get it!), start by using just 1 jarred lemon and tasting before adding the next because the amount of salt used can vary from brand to brand.

8 large celery stalks, chopped, plus as many leaves as you have 2 preserved lemons, seeds removed, chopped, plus 3 Tbsp. brine 2 cups vodka Chilled club soda (for serving) Small Manchego cheese pieces, tinned seafood (such as smoked mussels, boquerones, or clams), lemon wedges, and/or olives (for serving) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

8–10 cocktail

skewers Purée celery stalks and leaves, preserved lemons, brine, and 2 cups cold water in a blender until very smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher. (Do not force it; you want to keep any solids from going through. You should have 3–4 cups.) Chill celery mixture at least 20 minutes before using. To serve, stir vodka into celery mixture and pour 3–4 oz. into each of 8–10 tall ice-filled glasses (they should be about three fourths full). Top off each cocktail with 1–2 oz. club soda. Thread garnishes of your choice onto skewers and garnish each cocktail with a skewer. D O A H E A D : Celery mixture can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Stir well before using.

recipe by RACHEL GUR JAR

photograph by EMMA FISHMAN

MERRY

BREAKFAST H O L I D AY M O R N I N G S C A L L F O R a very particular kind of breakfast. You want something festive—decadent enough that it would never fly on a regular day but not so much so that it feels like you’re starting the day with dessert. It should be something you can set up the night before and bake when you wake up because who has time for a mountain of breakfast dishes? For that matter, is it too much to ask for it to be handheld? To thread this very particular needle, we humbly present the Sheet-Pan Hazelnut Breakfast Tart: a giant nut-stuffed Danish that’s easy to make and easier to love, and sure to disappear square by flaky square before the clock strikes noon. It’s our little holiday gift to you.

Sheet-Pan Hazelnut Breakfast Tart 9 – 12 S E RV I N G S Here’s a celebratory, make-ahead breakfast so you can swing right into prep for your Christmas dinner. This tart is inspired by kringle, a Danish holiday pastry, and has a gooey hazelnut filling that pairs wonderfully with coffee. If your market has blanched hazelnuts, get them. You’ll save yourself the step of rubbing off the skins, but you’ll still want to toast them. Using frozen puff pastry helps this tart come together quickly.

2 cups (280 g) skin-on hazelnuts 1 17.3-oz. package frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted,

1¼ cups (250 g) granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling 2 large egg yolks 3 large eggs 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown inside (slice 1 open to check if needed), 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then rub hazelnuts together in a clean kitchen towel to remove skins. Meanwhile, separate puff pastry sheets. Place 1 sheet of pastry on a sheet of parchment paper and roll out to a 14x10" rectangle. Prick pastry in several

of pastry on same sheet of parchment to a 13x9" rectangle and set aside at room temperature while you make the filling. Transfer hazelnuts to a food processor; pulse to coarse pieces (some bits will be smaller and finer than others). Whisk butter and 1¼ cups sugar in a large bowl until slightly fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add egg yolks and 2 eggs and whisk to combine, about 1 minute. Add hazelnuts, cocoa powder, and salt and mix with a rubber spatula until a thick paste forms. Beat remaining egg in a small bowl to blend. Remove baking sheet with pastry from refrigerator and brush egg along edges of pastry. Scoop hazelnut filling over dough and spread into an even layer with spatula. Carefully place remaining reserved sheet of pastry on top; gently press together edges of pastry to seal. Trim any excess dough from sides, then crimp edges with a fork. Chill tart in freezer 15 minutes. Remove tart from freezer and brush top all the way to the edges with egg. Cut about 1"-wide slits across top as desired for venting. Bake tart until crust is golden brown, 30–35 minutes. Let cool in baking sheet 10 minutes, then sprinkle with sugar and cut into pieces. D O A H E A D : Tart can be baked 3 days ahead. Let cool completely. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature. 75

, one-of-a-kind,

delicious A game h wit p l a ye d s ! cookie

’ Za ny braintease rs!

Cards … with made ts! carro

Howdy!

Can you spot Georgie the Gingerbread Kid all six times?

Fun w t o g i ve a ys b a c k!

cial And much much, ! m ore

design direction by ERIN JANG

illustrations by LEON EDLER

Did you know the average American will eat 35,000 cookies in a lifetime?

let’s decorate! Nothing is more fun than decorating cookies—okay, except for eating them. Use one sugar cookie recipe as a base, then let your imagination run wild to create the striped, sparkly, spattered, and super -loaded treats of your dreams using different decorating tricks. Have an adult help you make the dough (we have a simple recipe at bonappetit.com/ sugar -cookie), then get wacky, try new things, and don’t be afraid of a little mess—it’ll all taste great no matter what. b y K E N D R A VA C U L I N

anything goes

Play with your food Use two different cookie cutters—X’s and O’s are classic, but any pair will do—to turn your treats into edible tic-tactoe pieces (you can even ice X’s in one color and O’s in another for more contrast). Then draw a tic-tac-toe board on a piece of paper and challenge a friend or family member to a match.

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY T I M L A H A N

Gummies, pretzels, crushed hard candies, raw sugar, dried fruit, mini marshmallows, chocolate chips—anything can be a cookie decoration if you say it is. Assistant editor Chala Tyson Tshitundu’s favorite nonsprinkle for dressing up a frosted cookie? Fruity Pebbles cereal.

get creative with stencils Accent basic cookie shapes (think circles or squares) with stencils: Cut small hearts or stars out of paper, put them on the cookie, and dust the surface with powdered sugar. Remove the stencil for a pretty design. Bonus points if you mix freeze -dried fruit powder into the sugar for a pop of color.

on your mark Bake a rectangular cookie (think 6x4" so you have room to work), ice it in white royal icing (find a recipe at bonappetit.com/royalicing), let it dry (like, really dry), and then use it as a blank canvas to draw on with edible ink (Chefmaster food decorating pens, $20; amazon.com). You can even write a letter to family or friends and ship them your sweet (get it?) note packed with plenty of tissue paper.

keep it lo-fi No cookie cutters? No problem. Roll out the dough into a large rectangle and ask a grown-up to help you use a knife to slice crisscrossed diagonal lines. Voilà: instant diamond shapes, with no scraps to reroll. Or use the rim of a water glass to make perfect circles.

let’s cook! r e c i p e s b y K E N D R A VA C U L I N

These cheesy, flaky ham and cheese hand pies are always delicious: at a party, as an after -school snack, even for breakfast! The extra honey mustard is extra important—that way you have more for dipping

Ham and Cheese Hand Pies With Honey Mustard M A K E S 12 Ham and Swiss is a classic combo—add bright honey mustard and flaky store-bought puffy pastry and you have an easy snack (or even a quick weeknight dinner) that everyone will love to make and eat. Using cheese slices instead of grated cheese makes it easier to fold the pastry over when forming the pies. While we recommend eating these warm, they do pack up well and can be cooled and eaten later.

⅓ cup whole grain mustard 3 Tbsp. honey 1 large egg Kosher salt 1 package frozen puff pastry (preferably Dufour), thawed All-purpose flour (for surface) 8 oz. package sliced Swiss cheese, torn into bite-size pieces 6 slices deli ham, torn into bite-size pieces Freshly ground black pepper Sesame seeds (for sprinkling)

Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 375°. Stir mustard and honey in a medium bowl to combine. Beat egg, a pinch of salt, and 1 Tbsp. water in another small bowl to combine; set egg wash aside. Unfold puff pastry on a lightly floured surface. If using a 17.3-oz. package with 2 sheets, arrange them next to each other so they overlap slightly on a long side and gently press together to make 1 large sheet. Roll pastry to a 20x15" rectangle, then slice into 5" squares with a sharp knife (4 squares on long sides and 3 squares on short sides for 12 total). Spread about 1 tsp. honey mustard on the bottom half of each square to make a right triangle, leaving about ½" border along edges. Divide cheese and ham among squares, arranging on top of honey mustard. Using a pastry brush or your finger, brush or swipe reserved egg wash around edges of each square. Working with 1 square at a time, fold corner without any honey mustard up and over filling to meet opposite bottom corner, making a triangle. Press edges together to seal. Using a fork, crimp edges. Divide hand pies among 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing evenly. Brush tops with egg wash; sprinkle with pepper and sesame seeds. Chill in freezer 30 minutes. Cut a few slits in the top of each hand pie to let steam escape while baking. Bake hand pies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden brown and puffed, 30–35 minutes. Let cool slightly. Serve hand pies with remaining honey mustard on the side for dipping.

ice cream? it’s in the bag! No ice cream maker, no problem. With this technique you can shake up a bowl of peppermint ice cream in very little time using just two resealable plastic bags.

make your own party mix Fill in the blanks!

To get any shindig started, grab the biggest bowl you can find. Then fill it with:

3 cups 1

Whisk ½ cup half-and-half, ¼ cup heavy cream, 1 Tbsp. sugar, ½ tsp. peppermint extract, and a pinch of kosher salt in a small bowl to combine. Chill ice cream base in freezer 15 minutes.

Fill a 1-gal. resealable plastic bag two thirds full with ice (4–8 cups, depending on the size of your ice). Add ½ cup rock salt, close bag, and shake to evenly distribute salt. Open bag.

(bagged snack, like Bugles or Popchips)

+ 2 cups

(cheesy snack, like Cheez-Its or Goldfish)

+ 2 cups

(cereal, like Chex or Cheerios)

+ 2 cups 3

Remove ice cream base from freezer and stir to incorporate any sugar at the bottom of the bowl. Pour into a sandwich-size resealable plastic bag; close. Place into bag of ice; close.

Wearing gloves, shake and smush ice around until ice cream is firm, 10–12 minutes. Remove ice cream from bag of ice. If too firm to scoop, massage it briefly with bare hands to soften.

(pretzels, like sticks or rounds)

+ 1 cup

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN, LEON EDLER (GINGERBREAD)

(salted nuts, like peanuts or cashews)

For something sweet, add:

1 cup

(chocolaty bites, like M&M’s or Goobers)

Transfer ice cream to a clean small bowl. Using a toothpick, add red gel food coloring to ice cream, dragging it through to create streaks.

Crush a candy cane (a small rolling pin works really well for this if you’ve got one) and scatter on top. Grab a spoon!

Use a spoon to mix it all up . You did it! Everyone will want a scoop at your holiday party— and leftovers are perfect for movie night.

I like to play my favorite song while I shake ice cream! What’s yours?

Color in this page all at once or as you complete each activity yourself! Hot tip: Colored pencils work best.

ways to

Host a bake sale at your local library or school to raise money for a charity. Make a sign-up sheet to avoid overlaps and label goodies with any allergens. Get resources and inspiration at bakersagainstracism.com.

bake for a cause

Search your closet and donate any warm winter clothing you’ve outgrown to a local church or thrift store.

Share the Hand-Me-Down Love

Buy or collect nonperishables from friends and neighbors, then go on a scavenger hunt in your pantry for extras. Donate the bounty to a local food drive.

Collect Canned Goods

Contact a local food pantry or mutual aid group to learn how you can help pack up (or decorate) grocery bags to fight hunger in your community.

Volunteer at a food pantry

Spread joy to elderly relatives or faraway friends with a box of homemade cookies or granola and a festive note.

Send a Care Package

HIDDEN ABOVE?

THESE ITEMS

CAN YOU FIND

marranitos

cinnamon rolls

Yule log

candy cane

gingerbread house

Hoppin ’ John

illustration by RAMI NIEMI

by ALIZA ABARBANEL

Because this time of year is about more than stuffing our faces and getting gifts (though that’s fun too)

panet tone

give back

spiral ham

sugar cookie

turkey

Grab trash bags and gloves and ask friends (and some grown-ups) to help you pick up litter to keep your favorite park beautiful. Make time to play when you’re done!

Clean Up the Playground

Visit an animal shelter and volunteer to take dogs waiting for adoption out for a walk. It’s good exercise for you and the pups.

Walk Dogs at an Animal Shelter

Sign up with a guardian at mealsonwheelsamerica .org/americaletsdolunch to bring nourishing meals and daily cheer to elderly people in your community.

Deliver a Meal

Leave out a basket of packaged snacks with a handmade sign to thank workers for safely delivering all those boxes this year. It’s been a busy one!

Treat Your Mail Carrier

Make homemade cards (instructions on page 86!) to show appreciation for your teachers. Then turn them in with your homework.

Thank Your Teachers

What do cookies like to drink at the party? Baking soda! Hehe.

holiday Kids from around the globe share their tastiest traditions by DORKYS R AMOS

illustrations by ELIZABETH HAIDLE

nigeria Adeola, 11

japan Ena, 9

united states

Saa, 10

“Kuumba, the sixth principle of Kwanzaa, means creativity, so we eat different foods every year. My favorite food to eat for the feast called Karamu Ya Imani has to be Ethiopian. We usually order in, but one year my mom actually cooked it from scratch! We had red spicy lentils, cabbage and carrots, and kik alicha, a yellow split pea stew. But we bought the injera from a store!”

“On New Year’s Day I like to eat osechi at my grandma and grandpa’s house. It’s like a huge bento box for the whole family that’s split into many sections with different foods. My favorite things to eat are the little fishies, tazukuri, which are sweetened sardines. Then we eat anko mochi with red bean paste on top and kinako mochi with soy bean powder. My little brother and I can’t drink sake like the grown-ups, so instead we always drink apple juice in little gold bowls.”

GINGERBREAD KID JOKE BY NICO AVALLE

“I love eating jollof rice and a deepfried pastry called chin chin at my great-grandfather’s house for New Year’s. We also serve small chops—a mix of finger foods like soft puff puff, gizzard, chicken, spring rolls, and samosas stuffed with onions, beef, and mashed carrots. I don’t like onions though! My mom makes us zobo drink, a fruity punch of boiled zobo leaves, ginger, and fruit. It’s really good!”

israel Ido, 13

philippines Zaimon, 14 “Hanukkah celebrates the miracle of the jug of oil that lasted eight days, so a lot of what we eat for the holiday is cooked in oil. Every night we make latkes, fried potato pancakes with creamy dips. We also have sufganiyot, an Israeli doughnut with strawberry jam and powdered sugar. It’s hard to eat only one —you start with one and you finish with 10!”

“We celebrate Noche Buena with a big dinner with lots of meats: lechón, pork sisig, ham, pork chops, and ribs. My favorite dish is my mom’s sweet spaghetti. For dessert, I love leche flan , pastillas , and yema . They’re so yummy, I can’t stop eating them!”

dominican republic

france Tristan, 8

Pamela , 7

“For Epiphany we eat galette des rois, a puff pastry cake filled with frangipane, apples, or chocolate chips. There’s a hidden trinket inside. Whoever is the youngest goes under the table and tells people which slice to eat. If you find the trinket, you get to wear a crown!”

“For the holidays I like stewed and roast meats: puerco asado, pollo al horno, and chivo guisado. We have fried chicken, fried potatoes, and other fried things that probably aren’t healthy but taste good. I help my mom with the salad and eggs—those are easy. On New Year’s Eve I tell my parents I can stay up late and drink cider. There’s no alcohol in it!”

venezuela “My whole family gets together at my grandma’s house to make hallacas for Christmas. They start with a big pot of guiso de carne, a meat stew with pork, beef, chicken, bacon, olives, raisins, onions, and spices. Then we fill maize patties with the stew, wrap them in plantain leaves, and tie them up before boiling them. It tastes incredible. Honestly, only my grandma is allowed to make the meat stew, but the rest of us help with everything else!”

Miguel , 14 85

I’d call this a pretty good excuse for not eating your veggies!

THERE’S BROCCOLI ON YOUR HOLIDAY CARD! With a little paint and a few odds and ends from the refrigerator crisper drawer, you can make your very own holiday cards. by ERIN JANG

CARROT

GARLIC

C E L E RY POTATO

trees Celery + broccoli + radish + carrot

DELICATA SQUASH

snowman Potato + daikon + green bean + carrot + radish DAIKON A S PA R A G U S

BELL PEPPER GREEN BEAN

menorah

RADISH BROCCOLI STEM

W I T H A L I T T L E I M A G I N A T I O N a slice of delicata squash can become a wreath and carrot sticks can be a pine tree. Welcome to the world of veggie stamps! To start, look in your refrigerator for some firm vegetables. Use a knife and cutting board (with an adult’s help!) to slice the veggies into different shapes, then pat them dry with a kitchen towel. For a cleaner look, use a paintbrush to cover the cut side of the vegetables with an even layer of paint (washable tempera or acrylic paint work well) before stamping—or just dip it directly into some paint on a plate. Stamp your paper carefully and evenly. And remember, these are veggies, so do all your stamping right after you cut them; they’ll start to dry out and soften within a few hours. Try some of the ideas shown here, or go wild with your own pictures and patterns. You can even stamp a roll of kraft paper to make your own homemade gift wrap! 86

Radish + carrot + potato + red bell pepper

wreath Delicata squash + garlic clove + radish + asparagus

4. Reindeer’s real favorite foods are: 20% shrubbery, 45% moss and grass, 20% mushrooms, 10% ferns, and the rest bird eggs (yummm). What percentage of reindeer love bird eggs the most? 5. For New Year’s Eve dinner, Ernesto’s grandma ordered 3 dozen pork tamales, 1 dozen beef tamales, and 3 dozen spinach and cheese tamales. If she freezes 1 dozen pork and 1 dozen spinach for later, how many total tamales will be left for dinner?

quiz

6. One batch of eggnog calls for 6 eggs (well, it is called eggnog). How many dozens of eggs do you need for 5 batches of eggnog?

ANSWERS: 1. 7,000 MINUTES OR 116 HOURS 40 MINUTES OR 4 DAYS 20 HOURS 40 MINUTES; 2. 10 PECANS; 3. 2 DISHES; 4. 5%; 5. 60 TAMALES; 6. 2.5 DOZEN; 7. 4:22 P.M.; 8. 50¢; 9. 4 SEGMENTS; 10. 5.7 POUNDS; 11. $60; 12. “TEAM EAT IT!”; 13. 101 APPETIZERS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY LEON EDLER.

Don’t worry, we promise this is more fun than your homework

7. Sam put a noodle kugel in the oven at 3:05 p.m. If it takes 55 minutes to bake, 20 minutes to cool down, and 2 minutes to cut, what time will it finally be ready to eat?

1. Meera swears she can eat 1,000 candy canes.* If it takes her 7 minutes to eat one (yes, we timed her), how much time will it take for her to actually eat 1,000? *Not recommended by Meera ’s dentist or mom 2. Jason’s stepdad makes the whole family crack pecans before they can watch Frosty the Snowman. There are 5 people in the family and 50 pecans. How many will each person have to crack?

10. We have 1 holiday ham (weighing 7.5 pounds) and 1 fat chinchilla named Sam (1.8 pounds). How much heavier than Sam is the ham? 11. Peppermint bark is $30 a tin but 50% off in January. If Min’s mom picked up 4 tins on January 3rd, how much will she spend? 12. Sarah found 3 pieces of chocolate gelt from last Hanukkah in her sock drawer. Her mom and brother say she shouldn’t eat it, it’s expired. Her dad and two sisters say: “Eat it!” Who’s the majority here? 13. Kiki made 47 scallion pancakes, 53 lentil fritters, and 1 giant cheese ball for the potluck. How many total appetizers did she make? Want to check your answers? Look on the left side of this page!

8. This year Santa made the switch to oat milk, which is make 8 mugs of cocoa, how much will that one mug for Santa cost?

3. Emilia made clam dip, fish stew, crab claws, roast cod, and stuffed lobster tails. How many more seafood dishes does she need for her Feast of Seven Fishes?

9. Jaya has a chocolate orange that breaks into 20 segments. She has 4 friends she wants to share it with (sorry, Denise). How many segments will each friend get?

1. Place ¾ cup masa harina in a large saucepan. 2. Gradually stream in 6 cups water , whisking constantly. 3. Set pan over medium heat and bring mixture to a gentle simmer. 4. Cook, whisking often, until thickened, 13–17 minutes. 5. Reduce heat to low; add 4 oz. Mexican chocolate or dark chocolate, coarsely chopped , ½ cup chopped piloncillo or ¼ cup (packed) dark brown sugar , 1 tsp. ground cinnamon , ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt , and a pinch of cayenne pepper (if desired). 6. Cook, whisking, until chocolate is melted and sugar is dissolved. 7. Stir 1 cup milk, (we decided that’s a word). This one comes from Yewande Komolafe in the new Waffles + Mochi cookbook!

heavy cream, or nut milk of choice into champurrado; ladle into mugs. 8. Top with chocolate shavings (if desired). 8 servings

S T E P-BYSTEPS

TIPS & TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Ham It Up A salty, porky ode to the very best part of the pig Caution: Those glossy squares of fat are worth fighting over.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

b y A M I E L S TA N E K

P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 – 8 9

Slice It Yourself

The word ham refers to the hind leg of a pig, usually one that has been preserved or cured, whether by salting, drying, smoking, or some combination of the three. Before widespread refrigeration, pork was processed this way to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and extend its shelf life; these days we still do it because, well, it tastes amazing.

9 0 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

We generally like the flexibility of getting to slice a ham ourselves. That said, a spiral-sliced ham, which falls apart into tidy pieces, is a safer option if the idea of carving a hulking piece of meat—or allowing your tipsy guests to try their hands at it—makes you uncomfortable.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

1 Okay, What Is Ham Anyway?

Basically

3 P R E P A N D S E RV E I T L I K E A P R O The beauty of cooking a ham is that, well, it’s usually already cooked. All you really need to do is heat it up without drying it out, hit it with a tangy glaze right at the end, and serve it in style 1. P R E P I T

2. BAKE IT

If your ham is frozen, budget 2–3 days for it to thaw in the fridge. Before cooking, let it sit out at room temp for about an hour to take some chill off. And if you opted for an unsliced ham, use a knife to score the fat side in a crosshatch pattern to create nooks and crannies for the glaze later on.

Preheat your oven to 300°. Wrap the ham tightly in foil (this prevents it from drying out), place it on a wire rack set inside a sheet pan, and bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the ham registers at least 125°, which should take about 15–20 minutes per pound.

3. GL AZE IT

4 . S E RV E I T

Once the ham is warmed through, take it out of the oven and increase the heat to 425°. Whisk together 1½ cups whiskey, ¾ cup honey, ¼ cup mild-flavored (light) molasses, 1 tsp. chile flakes, and a few cranks of black pepper. Remove foil from ham, brush with glaze, and bake, basting with more glaze every 5 minutes or so, until deeply browned, 15–20 minutes total. Let rest 20 minutes before serving.

If ham is the star protein of a sit-down dinner, you want sides that balance out its rich sweet-saltiness—think simply dressed greens, scalloped potatoes, or roasted brussels sprouts. But if it’s part of a holiday party spread, the path forward is well-trodden and clear: Set out some Martin’s potato rolls, tangy pickles, mayo, and good Dijon mustard and watch that ham disappear.

Basically

4 T H E L E F T O V E R S A R E T H E B E S T PA R T “They ate ALL the ham!” exclaimed exactly no host ever. Which is ideal because leftovers are definitely the greatest perk of serving one. Below, a few of our favorite ways to use up every last salty, porky shred.

5 Wait, What About All Those Other Types of Ham? Just because a brined city ham will always be our December ride-or-die doesn’t mean we aren’t equally enamored of the many and storied styles out there. We’re particularly fond of these drier air-cured varieties that want to be sliced thinly and served as charcuterie. Prosciutto di Parma

While prosciutto can come from many parts of Italy, the stuff from Parma is arguably the finest. Salted and airdried for many months, and sometimes years, it’s delicate, supple, and sweet. Speck

Denser and brawnier than prosciutto, this style of Italian ham gets big flavor from the addition of aromatics like juniper, bay, and pepper to the cure, along with a light smoking. Jamón Serrano

Originally hailing from the mountains of Spain, and usually made from specific breeds of pigs, Serrano is mildly salty, nutty, and complex, with a distinctly porky finish.

Get Frenchy and throw together a bubbly croque monsieur.

Stir chopped ham into a batch of baked mac ‘n’ cheese.

Simmer beans, lentils, or split peas with a meaty chunk of ham bone.

9 2 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

Sizzle into a pan of clean-outthe -fridge fried rice.

Layer slices into a potato or other rootvegetable gratin.

Add to a pot of brothy stewed kale or collard greens.

America’s esteemed entry into the pantheon of dried pork, country ham is a Southern tradition. Salted, typically heavily smoked, and air-dried, it is eaten both cooked and, sometimes, sliced thin as charcuterie—our favorite way to experience its smoky, funky flavor.

FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES

Country Ham

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recipe index

BAKE THE COVER

Galletitas de Cebada Tostada y Mermelada p. 64

Maple-Za’atar Kettle Corn p. 72 Peppery Antipasto Skewers p. 71

APPETIZERS

BEVERAGES

Creamy French Onion Dip p. 72 Crispy Olives With Calabrian Chile Sauce p. 71 Curried Egg Tartines p. 73 Date and Gorgonzola Scones p. 72

Celery and Salted Lemon Cocktail p. 73 Champurrado p. 87 Cognac Punch Swizzle p. 43 Cranberry Rum Punch p. 72 Spiced Blood Orange Shrub p. 71

BREAKFAST

MEAT

Sheet-Pan Hazelnut Breakfast Tart p. 75

Coconut-Harissa Meatballs p. 36 Ham and Cheese Hand Pies With Honey Mustard p. 80 Mamá Rosa’s Lasagna de Carne p. 47 Prime Rib Roast With Habanero Crema p. 55

SALAD

Mango and Avocado Salad p. 54 SOUP

Creamy Curry Egg Noodle Soup p. 34 MAIN COURSES SEAFOOD

VEGE TARIAN

Shrimp and Crispy Rice With Citrus p. 38

Pan-Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Tempeh p. 40

VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Charred Cabbage and Carrots p. 54 Sweet Coconut Rice With Pigeon Peas p. 54 DESSERTS

Candy Cane Ice Cream in a Bag p. 81 Cocoa-Coffee Almond Cookies p. 64 Coconut-Peanut Mochi Balls p. 65

Galletitas de Cebada Tostada y Mermelada p. 64 Ginger-Almond Florentines p. 60 Iced Spiced Hermits p. 64 Pink Grapefruit Sugar Cookies p. 60 Rum Cake With Sticky Maple Glaze and Coconut p. 55 Thandai Shortbread Cookies p. 61

bon oppétit is a registered trademark of adgance magapine publishers inc. copyright © 2021 condé nast. all rights reserged. printed in the u.s.a. golume 66, no. 10. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Jackie Marks, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email BNAcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@ condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. bon oppétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon oppétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped engelope.

9 4 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY MARTHA BERNABE.

Whether you’re #TeamCrispy or #TeamChewy, there’s a cookie for ever yone! P. 56

Created by the editors of ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST, BON APPÉTIT Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of Bon Appétit, published Monthly except for combined issues in June/July and December/January. Publication No. 504-750. Annual subscription price $24.00.

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1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor are: Publisher, Jennifer Mormile, One World Trade Center, NY, New York 10007. Editor, Dawn Davis, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Managing Editor, Nick Traverse, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. 4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published through its Condé Nast division, One World Trade Center, New York, New York 10007. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, New York 10305. 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. 6. Extent and nature of circulation Average No. Copies each issue during preceding 12 months

Single Issue nearest to filing date

1,517,130

1,493,258

1,277,348

1,273,206

44,056

45,074

1,321,404

1,318,280

149,284

148,709

(2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies included on PS Form 3541

(3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS

7,117

4,125

156,401

152,834

1,477,805

1,471,114

39,325

22,144

a. Total No. Copies

(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS c. Total Paid Distribution d.Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541

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e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution f. Total Distribution

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b. Paid Circulation

1,517,130

1,493,258

i. Percent Paid

89.42%

89.61%

j. Paid Electronic Copies

50,377

52,620

k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,371,781

1,370,900

l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,528,182

1,523,734

89.77%

89.97%

m. Percent Paid (Both Print &Electronic Copies) 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) John Almash, Executive Director, Consumer Marketing

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Jimmy Fallon’s Dream Tea Party The actor, comedian, and host of The Tonight Show would invite one guest and one guest only

Fallon’s favorite way to brew? Breville’s Smart Tea Infuser ($180; breville.com), which never over -steeps. W H I L E W E ’R E I N the high season of cocktail parties and seated dinners, of epic reunions with family and friends, of long-awaited trips to tropical destinations, the incomparable Jimmy Fallon is going all in on… tea. So of course we needed to ask the late night host who he’d invite to his dream tea party. — D AW N D AV I S

I understand that during the lockdown, you got into tea, chasing an immunity-boosting elixir. So we’re going to change the rules a bit for you. Instead of a dinner party, you can throw the tea party of your dreams.

Yes, I got into astragalus root during the pandemic. I added mint to give it a bit more flavor. Which three people get invited to your party? Please don’t give me a dozen names.

As a rule I never go out with more than three people. I like

having conversations and want to hear people’s stories. But for this party there’s only one guest: the Queen of England. I’d love some oneon-one time with Her Majesty. Won’t that be intimidating? Just you and the queen?

No, this will be a ’70s Disco Murder Mystery party. We will start by setting up our characters and then we’ll play music. I hear she loves ABBA’s “Dancing Queen.” We’ll do the hustle, then we will get down to tea. Maybe, if she’s relaxed enough, we can even take a selfie. Parlor games, how perfect. I understand they are popular with the royals. But what about the tea? It has to be on point. What kind do you serve Her Majesty?

I love sencha myself, but for the queen, I’m thinking Earl Grey. That’s classic.

9 6 – D E C E M B E R 2 0 21 / J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

How do you dress for tea with a queen?

We would both wear twinsets and matching fancy gloves, of course. After you bond over disco music and games, it would be great if she were relaxed enough to tell you what she actually thinks about The Crown. Beyond that, what do you ask her?

What it is that gets you through it? The decisions, the stress. There has to be something. Your kids? Your grandkids? She’s always ahead of the game, ahead of the curve. I would want to know: How do you make those tough decisions, year after year, decade after decade? And what makes you laugh? I imagine that after such a scintillating discussion, you’ll be too excited to just go home and check your email.

So you head out to your favorite restaurant in New York City. Which one is that?

I’d go to Eleven Madison Park. I just tried it. It blew me away. I love the chef, Daniel Humm. He just zigs when everyone else zags. He’s got the best restaurant in the world, so he goes and does something totally different out of his comfort zone. I’m sorry to say this, but I think there’s a good chance the queen may decline your offer. You get to put together another tea party. Who do you ask this time?

If I get to invite one other person living or dead, it would have to be Prince. He was a friend of the show. And like the queen, he was very funny, and I don’t know if people knew that. He had a sense of humor. Something you would know a thing or two about, Jimmy.

I L LU S T R AT I O N BY J OA N A PA R T Y K A

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