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EVERY
LU XURY INCLUDED
April VO LU M E 67 N U M B E R 3
D E S P E R AT E LY SEEKING DATES P. 6 8
10 Family Meal Za’atar! Scallion thecha! Herbs galore! Greet spring with a slate of verdant weeknight recipes. 22 The Getaway Restaurateur Santiago Pérez shares his can’t-miss spots to eat, drink, stroll, and shop in Mexico City. AS TOLD TO AMIEL STANEK
38 Comme Une Parisienne Cookbook author Rebekah Peppler shares her favorite lunch recipes—and shops for sourcing wine pairings— in the City of Light.
58 The Gems of Piedmont With recipes and must-stop road trip destinations, chef Stefano Secchi sings the praises of his most beloved Italian region.
BY CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU
AS TOLD TO BET TINA MAKALINTAL
34 The Read Banquet halls connect this author to her Taiwanese heritage— and a space that feels like home.
48 Been There, Ate That In his new book, The Cook You Want to Be, former BA staffer Andy Baraghani delves deep into his own taste memories with recipes inspired by his travels.
68 The Desert’s Fruit Through Ramadan and beyond, Medjool dates are pantry stars, bringing life and depth to ricotta toast, soybraised short ribs, and more.
BY ESMÉ WEIJUN WANG
BY ALEX BEGGS
26 Kitchen Upgrade Acclaimed designer Sheila Bridges imbues kitchens with an abundance of personality. BY SAM COCHRAN
30 The Pour We’re talking terroirdriven gins from all around the world. BY MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN
BY ZAYNAB ISSA AND MEHREEN KARIM
78 Berry Fluffy A sight to behold, Shilpa Uskokovic’s Japanese-inspired chiffon cake earns the title of showstopper. 81 Basically Consider this your all-access pass to the planet’s most popular beverage besides water: tea! BY MAX FALKOWITZ
88 Dream Dinner Party Writer Margaret Atwood envisions a guest list brimming with literary icons. BY DAWN DAVIS
IN EVERY ISSUE 6 editor’s letter 86 recipe index ON THE COVER
Illustration by Arsh Raziuddin. Rendering by Danielle Del Plato.
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
9 The Buy Havanna Alfajores remind Nico Avalle of sunny sojourns to Argentina.
This Easter, put all your eggs in one cheesecake.
YO U D O N ’ T J U ST TAST E I T.
You feel it.
SCAN HERE FOR OUR Easter Egg Cheesecake RECIPE
©2022 Kraft Foods
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4 – APRIL 2022
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NEXT MONTH WE EXPLORE
THE FUTURE OF FOOD
Editor ’s Letter A toast to Rebekah Peppler’s dreamy Parisian balcony P. 38
I’m always pleasantly surprised at how diverse our staff ’s food preferences are. Who is a dessert person, who is not? Who goes hard for French cassoulet and who prefers ramen? Our differences notwithstanding, we all agree on at least this: When it comes to vacations, we pick restaurants before hotels and choose museums for their proximity to wine bars. So in this, our travel issue, we are thrilled to share intel from some of our favorite food obsessives. Andy Baraghani, whose AROUND OUR OFFICE
WHAT I’M LOVING Gorgeous ceramics from Brooklyn artists
6 – APRIL 2022
A friend gifted me the most lovely coffee cup from the ceramists at Brooklyn studio Lost Quarry, which sent me to the company’s website (lost-quarry.com), looking for more. I was especially drawn to this earthy organic vase ($625).
DAW N DAV I S edi t or in chie f @bonappetitdawn on instagram
I’ve long been a fan of Dina Nur Satti, another Brooklyn ceramic artist with roots in Sudan and Somalia. I can’t wait to fill this gorgeous Zir Vessel, a symbol of Nubian generosity, with spring blossoms (from $425; nurceramics.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOANN PAI (PARIS); COURTESY LOST QUARRY (TAN VASE).
Will Travel for Food
food graced the pages of BA every month when he worked in our test kitchen, shares recipes from his new cookbook, The Cook You Want to Be, as well as memories from his trips abroad in “Been There, Ate That” (page 48). We feature six recipes, but you’re going to want to make everything in that cookbook. Then there’s Paris-based food writer Rebekah Peppler, whose approach to entertaining has generated a lot of staff enthusiasm. She shares a leisurely lunch menu along with her most beloved wineshops, restaurants, and cafés in “Comme Une Parisienne” (page 38). And if you, like me, can’t wait to get back to Italy, don’t miss Stefano Secchi’s “The Gems of Piedmont” (page 58). Secchi helms New York City’s beloved Rezdôra, but it’s his road trips in northwest Italy that most influence his cooking. If you want to keep your flights domestic, come with us to the Coachella Valley in Palm Springs, California, which has more going for it than a certain music festival. This desert region provides the perfect environment for growing dates, as we learn from farmer Alya Haq. Our date-focused recipes, from spice-crusted carrots (page 71) to braised short ribs (page 73), are all designed to please. Of course, some travel is just armchair travel, a chance to daydream. If you’re not ready to hop on a plane just yet, we have articles to clip for when the time comes, like restaurateur Santiago Pérez’s guide to his hometown of Mexico City (page 22). It’s one itinerary I plan to follow exactly! Whatever your preference—domestic or international, city or desert, armchair or airplane—we wish you safe and sweet travels.
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KITCHEN DESIGN GE TS PERSONAL
GINS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
p. 26
p. 30
R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w
Sweet, Sweet Nostalgia As a kid I called Havanna Alfajores “Oreos Argentinos.” Opening a box of the soft, crumbly sandwich cookies (my favorites are filled with dulce de leche) was like breaking into a treasure chest; I’d dunk them in warm milk and watch the chocolate coating dissolve away. Each bite still holds memories of summers with family in Buenos Aires and walks on the grand Avenida 9 de Julio, bellies full of asado, speaking Spanish and gesticulating wildly. It’s been years since I’ve visited, but I can always find a box at my local Latin grocer. The taste alone brings me close enough for now.
Havanna Alfajores, $20; walmart.com
— N I CO AVA L L E
P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA
APRIL 2022 – 9
Family Meal
This month it is easy being green—thanks to spicy broccoli rabe noodles, an herby Dutch baby pancake, and more
I T ’S F I N A L LY springtime, meaning it’s time to run—not walk—to your local market and fill your basket with the earth’s green gifts. Here, we’re celebrating the spirit of spring with four verdant weeknight recipes featuring bouquets of cilantro, bundles of basil, bunches of pungent green onions, and beyond. “Green foods convey the sensation of freshness,” says test kitchen director Chris Morocco. “That flavor comes through in so many ways, channeled by chlorophyll crashing through cell walls as you crunch through snap peas. Green food tastes literally alive.” To store your green goods, Morocco recommends drying them first and storing in a just-damp kitchen towel inside a resealable plastic bag. —MEHREEN KARIM
10 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY. FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS.
A hot skillet is crucial to the Dutch baby’s classic crispy rim.
Family Meal
Crispy Chicken With Za’atar-Olive Rice Check the ingredients in your za’atar blend—if it includes salt you might not need to season with extra at the end. If it’s salt-free, season to taste R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N
4 S E RV I N G S
1 lb. ground chicken or turkey ½ tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup Castelvetrano olives, smashed, pits removed
3 cups cooked rice 1 Tbsp. za’atar, plus more for serving 2 cups coarsely chopped greens (such as spinach, kale, or chard) Zest and juice of 1 small lemon 2 oz. feta, thinly sliced into planks Coarsely chopped dill (for serving)
1. Place chicken in a medium bowl. Sprinkle paprika and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt over chicken; season with pepper. Gently mix with your hands to combine.
3. Add olives to same pan and cook, undisturbed, until heated through and blistered, 1–2 minutes. Add rice and 1 Tbsp. za’atar and cook, stirring often, until slightly crisp, about 3 minutes. Add greens and lemon juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until greens are wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat; stir in lemon zest, feta, and chicken. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. 4. Transfer chicken and rice to a large shallow bowl; sprinkle with more za’atar and top with dill.
Any leafy green (spinach, kale, chard) or cooked grain (jasmine or brown rice, farro, barley) would work here.
12 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
2. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Arrange chicken in pan in a thin, even layer and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown and crisp underneath, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring and breaking up into bite-size pieces with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chicken to a plate, leaving oil and fat behind.
Family Meal
Herby Dutch Baby With Smoked Salmon To beat the most air into your eggs and milk, both have to be at room temperature. Bring eggs up to temp fast by letting them sit in hot water R E C I P E BY S A R A H JA M P E L
1. Place a rack in middle of oven and place a medium ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, on rack. Preheat oven to 425°. Place onion in a small bowl; squeeze in juice of ½ lemon and add a big pinch of salt; set aside. Slice remaining ½ lemon into wedges and set aside for serving.
4 S E RV I N G S
½ small red onion, thinly sliced 1 lemon, halved ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 4 large eggs, room temperature 1 large egg white, room temperature 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 (packed) cup baby spinach
⅔ cup whole milk, room temperature 1 cup tender herb leaves (such as dill, cilantro, basil, and/or parsley), plus more for serving ⅔ cup (83 g) all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. cornstarch Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 4 oz. smoked salmon
Blend any mix of tender herbs into the batter to give this savor y pancake its striking color and taste.
2. Blend eggs and egg white in a blender on high speed until very frothy, about 1 minute. Add garlic, spinach, milk, and 1 cup herbs and blend on high speed until well combined and very green. Add flour, cornstarch, and ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and season with lots of pepper; blend to combine. 3. Carefully remove skillet from oven. Add butter to pan and swirl to coat bottom. Immediately pour batter into pan and bake pancake until puffed and brown around the edges, 20–25 minutes. (It will start to deflate as soon as it comes out of the oven, but don’t worry, that’s normal.)
14 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY. FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS.
4. Top Dutch baby with smoked salmon, onion, and more herbs; season with pepper. Serve with reserved lemon wedges for squeezing over.
C O N T I N U E S O N P A G E 18
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Family Meal
Skirt Steak With Scallion Thecha Thecha is a spicy, garlicky greenchile-based condiment from Maharashtra in western India. Use it anywhere you want massive flavor R E C I P E BY R AC H E L G U RJA R
4 S E RV I N G S
1 small bunch cilantro, tough stems removed, leaves and tender stems coarsely chopped 4 scallions, coarsely chopped 3 green Thai or serrano chiles 4 garlic cloves 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
⅓ cup vegetable oil, plus more for steak 1 tsp. cumin seeds ¼ cup salted or unsalted roasted peanuts, crushed 1½ lb. ½"-thick skirt steak, cut into 5"-long pieces Flaky sea salt
1. Pulse cilantro, scallions, chiles, garlic, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a food processor (a mini processor works well here) until a coarse paste forms. Transfer to a small heatproof bowl. 2. Heat ⅓ cup oil in a small skillet over medium-high. Cook cumin until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Transfer to bowl with paste; add peanuts and mix well. Set scallion thecha aside for serving.
4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add half of the steak, arranging in a single layer, and cook, undisturbed, until a golden brown crust forms, 2–3 minutes. Turn steak over and cook until second side forms a golden brown crust, 2–3 minutes. (Steak should be thin enough that once it’s seared it will be cooked to medium-rare—about 125° on an instant-read thermometer. If you have a very hot pan, this will happen quickly.) Transfer steak to a cutting board and repeat process with remaining steak. Let rest 10 minutes. 5. Slice steak against the grain and arrange on a platter. Top with reserved scallion thecha and sprinkle with sea salt. Traditionally served with dishes like bhakri, Gurjar loves thecha as a complement for steak.
18 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
3. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season on both sides with kosher salt. Rub a little oil over steaks to coat lightly.
YOU’VE LEARNED LANGUAGES FOR THE SOLE PURPOSE OF ORDERING FOOD. WE’VE GOT A SNACK FOR PEOPLE LIKE YOU.
Family Meal
GochujangSesame Noodles Any noodles you have in your pantry will work here—even spaghetti. If broccoli rabe isn’t your thing, use broccolini instead R E C I P E BY Z AY N A B I SS A
4 S E RV I N G S
8–10 oz. fresh or dried wheat noodles (such as lo mein, udon, or ramen) Kosher salt ¼ cup gochujang 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar 2 Tbsp. tahini 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 bunch broccoli rabe, coarsely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped Freshly cracked black pepper Handful of torn basil leaves, plus sprigs for serving Toasted sesame seeds and lime wedges (for serving)
1. Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cool running water.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a wok or large nonstick skillet over mediumhigh. Add broccoli rabe and garlic; season with salt and lots of pepper. Cook, tossing often, until broccoli rabe stems are crisp-tender and leaves are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add reserved sauce and cook, stirring often, until thickened slightly, about 2 minutes. Add noodles and a handful of basil and toss gently until sauce clings to noodles, about 1 minute. 4. Divide noodles among bowls and top with sesame seeds and more basil. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.
Issa suggests using O ’Food or Mother-inLaw’s brand gochujang for a balanced, spicy kick.
20 – APRIL 2022
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
2. Whisk gochujang, soy sauce, brown sugar, tahini, sesame oil, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to combine; set sauce aside.
Th e G e t a w a y
Viva CDMX From 86-year-old institutions to nouveau mezcalerias, native son and restaurateur Santiago Pérez shows us around Mexico City Botánico’s garden patio in Hipódromo
22 – APRIL 2022
as tol d to A M I E L S TA N E K
P H OTO G R A P H S BY M AU R E E N M . E VA N S
The Get awa y
Mexico City I WAS BORN AND RAISED IN MEXICO CIT Y,
so it’s been really exciting over the past decade to see its popularity explode internationally. As the managing partner of Cosme in New York and L.A.’s Damian, I pre fer the kinds of spots that are a little less obvious, ones that show a bit more local flavor. Ciudad de México (or CDMX) is one of the largest cities in the world, juxtaposing really old, traditional institutions that have been doing the same thing forever with newer restaurants that are pushing the boundaries. Nothing reflects the city’s character today like this combination of the classic and the avant-garde. From street food to the fanciest dining rooms, you can have incredible experiences at every price point without ever sacrificing flavor. My advice: Make two or three reservations, then spend the rest of the time eating and living like a local.
THE ESSENTIALS
The Hot Spots
• Danubio • San Ángel Inn • Rincón Tarasco • Campobaja • Café Nin • Botánico • Salón Rosetta • Ticuchi When to Visit
The weather is nicest between March and May, before the rainy season picks up. Where to Stay
Octavia Casa, an elegant boutique hotel situated in the hip, pedestrianfriendly La Condesa neighborhood What to Bring Back
Ticuchi’s salt-cured kampachi with black aguachile 24 – APRIL 2022
Pérez has a soft spot for dried chili mangoes and always takes a stash home with him.
Danubio Basque food may not be what you think of when you think of Mexico, but Danubio absolutely deserves a visit. It’s been open for more than 85 years, and I don’t think it has changed at all, right down to the way the waiters are dressed—here it’s as if time had stopped. The langoustines a la plancha, grilled and served simply with garlic sauce, are a must. This is the kind of place where a long, lazy lunch slowly transitions to an afternoon of drinking, followed by a much-needed stroll around the Zócalo, Mexico City’s historic center. San Ángel Inn This place is a true Mexico City institution, a restaurant in a colonial-style hacienda that serves one of the greatest brunches in town. It’s an excellent place to try mole; the recipes here are from Puebla, and they are very traditional. There’s also live music on the weekends, which is when you want to go, so it’s important to make a reservation—be sure to request a table by the garden. The restaurant is next to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s Museo Casa Estudio and only a short walk to El Bazaar Sábado artisan market (Saturdays only), so you can easily plan a whole day around your meal.
Th e G e t a w a y
Popcorn plays nice with martinis and negronis at Salón Rosetta
Rincón Tarasco For street tacos Rincón Tarasco near Polanco is definitely my go-to. I love a place that specializes in one specific thing and does it really well, and in this case that’s Michoacán-style carnitas: pork cooked for hours in lard, served on fresh tortillas with onions and cilantro. And of course a few beers to wash it all down. I like to head over to Nevería Roxy for a mandarin sorbet afterward and eat it while roaming around beautiful Chapultepec Park. Campobaja Located in the trendy tree-lined neighborhood of Roma Norte, Campobaja has the perfect laid-back ambience and some of the best seafood in the city. They serve a great selection of ceviches, aguachiles, and shellfish on the half shell, as well as plenty of interesting mezcals, cocktails, and local craft beers. It’s a really lively place, and in back there’s a hidden court for playing pétanque—a French ball game similar to bocce—which is pretty unique for Mexico City.
Café Nin For breakfast try this spot in the hip, up-and-coming Juárez neighborhood, and go on a weekday if you can to avoid a wait. They have amazing coffee, lots of varieties of bread and pastry, and breakfast staples such as chilaquiles. I prefer to go late in the morning to fuel up before taking the long, steep climb to the top of Chapultepec Castle for some of the most excellent views of the city. Botánico This is one of my favorite new restaurants, and I’m not alone—it’s very popular and hard to get a table. But once you’re in, you’re guaranteed great food and peoplewatching. The design is exceptional, with beautiful Art Deco touches and a secretgarden-esque patio with a 50-year-old cactus at the center of it. It’s a modern bistro with a menu that changes constantly, but everything I’ve tried is fresh and exciting— definitely get the rib-eye burger if it’s available.
Check out the daily fish selection at Campobaja
MARKET REPORT
The shopping in Mexico City is every bit as delightful and diverse as the dining. Here are a few of Pérez’s favorite spots to browse:
Casa Bosques The chic art and design bookstore in the Roma Norte neighborhood boasts its own line of artisanal bean-to-bar chocolates. Mercado San Juan This sprawling daily food market has two sections: one with Mexican dining stalls and the other with a wide range of indigenous and imported ingredients. Xinú Mexican tuberose, copal resin, and agave are just a few of the ingredients used to make unique botanical scents at this sleek and stylish perfume shop. Lago In a boutique as beautiful as the things it sells, you’ll find an array of textiles, ceramics, accessories, and more made by up-and-coming designers from across Latin America.
Salón Roset ta I love all of Elena Reygadas’s restaurants. She cooks primarily Mexican food with some references to Italy; it’s all very subtle and delicate. When I’m looking for a night out but not necessarily trying to party, I start the evening at Salón Rosetta, the cocktail bar above her acclaimed restaurant Rosetta. It’s so calm and stylish, with an almost speakeasy vibe. The bar is very small, and the cocktails are amazing. I always get the negroni, which is fantastic— the quality of the spirits is just outstanding. Ticuchi For mezcal you won’t be able to find anywhere else in the city, continue the night by heading over to Ticuchi, located in the old Pujol space. It feels like a bat cave to me— very dark, broody, super sexy. I think it’s one of the best bars in town. They also serve food if you get hungry, primarily Mexican antojitos, little snacks like tamales with which to begin or end a night. APRIL 2022 – 25
Kitchen Upgrade
Personality Studies At home and for distinguished clientele, Sheila Bridges grounds her interior design with a unique sense of place by SA M C O C H R A N
DESIGNER
Sheila Bridges HOME BASE
New York Cit y MANTRA
Furnishing for ward— furnish for a lifetime GO-TO MEAL
Fresh ramen with all t ypes of vegetables from my CSA
26 – APRIL 2022
For a 1936 Cotswold-style estate in New York, Bridges’s client found inspiration in the driveway of all places—resulting in cabinets painted the same green as their son’s vintage Ford pickup truck. “Ideas can come from anywhere,” she notes of the kitchen, designed in collaboration with architect David Abelow. “It’s fun when people don’t take things so seriously.” The rich hue complements the green shades in the dining room’s hand-painted wallpaper. “A kitchen shouldn’t be stand-alone. It should have a relationship to adjoining spaces.”
PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANK FRANCES/OTTO. ILLUSTRATION BY CARLY JEAN ANDREWS.
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Kitchen Upgrade
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The designer praises marble’s rich character and unique veining. “It can be any kind: Vermont Danby, Carrara.” From $536 a square meter; lapicida.com
History Lessons
At her Harlem apartment, located in a landmark 1901 building, she looked to the past, modeling the traditional cabinetry after the home’s original doors. Benjamin Moore Hemlock blue paint complements her Torino Damask wallpaper, which she designed after a historic painted ceiling in Turin, Italy. “The room looks the same today as it did 10 years ago,” she says. “It is possible to do a timeless kitchen.”
Odes to Joy
“If you look back at my own kitchens, all of them are different,” Bridges says. For her 1,600-square-foot retreat in the Hudson Valley, she opted for a small and open kitchen from which to entertain her frequent guests. The space features neutral cabinets and pops of yellow in the form of a Smeg range, Le Creuset Dutch oven, and Nanette Hahn painting. Her ultimate advice? “Surround yourself with the things you love, the things that make you happy. Everybody is unique, and that is what design is all about.”
“I used to have a lot of parties,” Bridges notes, explaining her vast collection of vintage glassware. $325 for set of nine; 1stdibs.com
When it comes to appliances, you can’t go wrong with Italian— which remind Bridges of her studies in Florence. From $6,549; us.bertazzoni.com
The designer’s iconic Harlem Toile de Jouy pattern, seen here as a wallpaper, features scenes that explore stereotypes of Blackness. $300 a roll; sheilabridges.com 28 – APRIL 2022
Local Attractions
At Bridges’s pied-à-terre in Reykjavík, the kitchen is an homage to Iceland’s nature and culture. Black cabinets nod to the country’s basalt columns and black sand beaches, and 3D wallpaper designed by Twenty2 with Pratt Institute features a nautical motif of Viking ships and crashing waves. “I make all my visitors put on 3D glasses,” she says. Wine storage under the eaves and a magnetic knife block help to max out the snug space.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANNIE SCHLECHTER FROM HOUSE BEAUTIFUL (HARLEM KITCHEN); FRANK FRANCES FROM ELLE DECOR (HUDSON VALLEY KITCHEN); CHRIS MOTTALINI FROM NEW YORK MAGAZINE (REYKJAVÍK KITCHEN).
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GLENDALOUGH WILD GIN
This woody, first-of-itskind Vietnamese gin gets its profile from black cardamom, pomelo, and dia sieu wood, which are mostly farmed and foraged by members of the Red Dao, Hmong, and other ethnic groups.
This floral spirit from Glendalough relies on plants like red clover, blackberr y leaves, and elderflower, most of which are gathered by a single local forager from the area around the distiller y in Ireland’s Wicklow Mountains.
W E ’R E A C O U P L E D E C A D E S I N T O T H E G I N A I S S A N C E ,
Let Gin Be Your Guide Take a mental trip to the highlands of Vietnam, Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, and more with a sip of these evocative hyper-regional gins. b y M AC K E N Z I E C H U N G F E GA N
P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N
a term that should be only invoked, as Anthony Lane writes in The New Yorker, by those willing to be “banned from public bars in perpetuity.” My exile will be softened by my home bar, stocked with an array of contemporary gins that expand the category beyond the classic juniper-forward London Dry. Some are floral, others citrusy, but my favorites are infused with a sense of place. Gin starts out as a neutral spirit that can be distilled from just about anything with sugar content, the most common raw material
NIKKA COFFEY GIN
PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN
Named for the still used in its production, this zest y gin incorporates four Japanese citrus varieties, including amanatsu and yuzu as well as sansho peppercorns which, like their close relatives from Sichuan, are members of the citrus family.
being various grains like corn and wheat. From there it goes through a secondary distillation process where botanicals are introduced to impart flavor and character. Technically speaking, for gin to be gin, the dominant note must be juniper. But beyond that, anything else—from brussels sprouts to red wood ants—is fair game (and yes, both those gins exist). For terroir-driven distillers around the world, this simple formula presents an opportunity to tap spices, herbs, and fruits that suffuse gins with geographical specificity and soul—and for an avid traveler
ISLE OF HARRIS GIN
The star here is locally harvested sugar kelp, which lends brininess to this gin’s orris root, orange, and coriander notes. The rippled glass bottle (a keeper) also evokes the maritime essence of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.
who’s been mostly grounded the past two years, these spirits are multisensory souvenirs of trips past. Sông Cái’s gin recalls a misty hike through the mountainous Northwest Highlands of Vietnam. Nikka’s offering evokes a meal of grilled unagi and sansho pepper in Tokyo washed down with very cold beer. And Isle of Harris’s namesake gin reminds me of the half dozen sheep I nearly hit on a winding one-lane road in Scotland. That drive certainly called for a stiff martini afterward—as do all of these transportive gins, which are equally good with a splash of tonic. A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 31
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A Life in Banquets For me and my family, Hong Fu was one of the few places that truly felt like home by E S M É W E I J U N WA N G
I most remember about Hong Fu. Many of the customs of banquet meals in Taiwan were also present at Hong Fu, despite the fact that it served both Sichuan and Taiwanese cuisines and was in Cupertino, California. Upon our arrival waitstaff would present a variety of set menus in ascending order of cost per table to whomever had made the reservation. The number and order of dishes on a banquet menu are purposefully set, and the waitstaff brings out the food just as thoughtfully. Eight dishes are lucky because eight (“ba”) sounds like “fa,” a word that conjures prosperity. Four, which sounds like the word for death, ought to be avoided at all costs. A few select dishes come out at a time so that diners may enjoy a variety of flavors and textures at any moment; soup and cold appetizers arrive at the beginning, and fried rice and/or noodles come toward the end. THE BANQUE TS ARE WHAT
My parents are Taiwanese immigrants. They moved first to Michigan, where I was born, then to the San Francisco Bay Area, where several groups of relatives later followed. It was one of my brother’s Taiwanese American classmates who first told us about Hong Fu’s renowned Taiwanese beef noodle soup. Word of mouth was how my parents learned which restaurants to trust in a new land. Hong Fu became the place where my extended family met for casual meals and also held celebratory banquets, rejoicing over birthdays, new jobs, and anniversaries within its cream-colored walls. Traditionally, in these meals, the more luxurious the food, the more the host is able to “save face”—a Chinese phrase that refers to maintaining social standing through manners and courtesy. Abalone is prized not only for its delicate flavor and chewy texture but also because it is so complicated to catch. Whether served braised with I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY GA B R I E L L E W I DJ A J A
Th e R e a d
black mushrooms, grilled in soy sauce, or sautéed with bok choy, it’s a delicacy that requires a significant investment of time by fishermen who have carefully sought the camouflaged fish and pried it from the rocks. Meat dominates banquet dishes because it signifies wealth. (A common joke in Han Chinese culture is that women—stereotypically watching their figures—are always complaining about the absence of vegetables.) The traditional Sichuan dishes served at Hong Fu were dramatically flavorful, and over the decades that we went there, my family developed a love for certain ones: gleaming, skinny toothpicks of beef soaked in chili oil (gan bian niu rou); my brother’s favorite, fried slices of pork with thinner slices of jalapeño (jiao yan pai gu); whole fish with ginger and scallions (qing zheng yu); chicken egg drop soup heavy with corn kernels (ji dan yu mi geng, popular with children); sweet walnut shrimp with mayonnaise (mi zhi he tao xia, always sure to please newcomers). Whether we chose a pricier banquet or a less expensive one depended on the importance of the occasion and how flush the host felt at the time. Walnut shrimp frequently appeared at our more casual banquets whereas fancier dishes like bok choy with sea cucumbers or Peking duck with sweet sauce and fluffy white buns were eaten less often. Even the questions around the table became tradition: To this day, my mother always asks whether I’d like some sea cucumber or bitter melon, even though I’ve never, ever said yes to either. Eating at Hong Fu also taught me the rules of Chinese manners and family tradition. Elders, for example, not only take the first seats at the round table but also eat the first bite of every dish. I learned that it’s important to check with everyone at the table before rotating the lazy Susan and taking the final piece. I learned that if there are leftovers whomever has paid the bill heartily encourages the guests to take them home. These behaviors became ingrained. When I ate dinner with my second-generation friends whose parents had emphasized assimilation, I found that their table manners more closely mimicked those of my white friends: Everyone sat down at random, the first bite of every dish was as likely to be taken by a child as by an elder, and the last bite was up for grabs. On the contrary and despite my passion for Saturday morning cartoons, the Bee Gees, and McDonald’s, my family’s banquets had succeeded—partially—in keeping me connected to our cultural origins. 36 – APRIL 2022
t
turned out to be his sister. She adored H E M O S T F A M O U S banquet in Chinese history is the Hong Fu’s special banquet dessert, xiao Manchu-Han imperial feast, lao shu—adzuki-bean-paste-filled, deepwhich was held in Beijing’s Forbidden fried pastries in the shape of mice. She City during the reign of Qing Dynasty loves this dish so much, in fact, that her Emperor Kangxi (1661–1722). This apoc- email address and social media handles ryphal feast consisted of 108 dishes and are inspired by its name. In 2009, as Chris and I planned the six meals over the course of three days. Peking duck, shark’s fin soup, egg tarts, menu for our Bay Area wedding, we the “snowy palm”—a meaty bear claw decided on mostly Cajun food for the with sturgeon. By the time Taiwan stood reception. Therefore, a banquet at under Japanese colonial rule in the early Hong Fu became the obvious choice for 20th century, banquets on the island the rehearsal dinner. We rented one were usually catered by restaurants— of the restaurant’s handful of private though in the countryside the host pro- rooms, each sizable enough for five large, vided the tableware, stoves, tables, and white-tablecloth-covered, round tables chairs; a chef cooked in a makeshift that could serve the dishes we loved. kitchen; and the neighborhood ate and Throughout the dinner, my fiancé and I went around greeting family and a celebrated together. These were the original pan toh, or single table of friends, many of whom roadside banquets, that my rural-born had never before eaten the dishes that mother attended as a child in Taiwan. I now found so familiar. Even a friend who considers herself pesShe grew up in Pingtung, catarian enjoyed the tea25 minutes away from the smoked duck. Compared much larger city of KaoshiAt a banquet to the hundred tables at ung. Her own mother’s wedrestaurant I my maternal grandparents’ ding banquet was reputed feel like a wedding banquet, it was a to be the city’s largest at member of the paltry gathering. But I was the time; as the lore goes, in-group, thrilled to have so many the Hsu wedding was made linked to the loved ones in the restaurant up of 100 tables. When I place and where I could reenact, in ask my mother about her flavors from my own way, my family’s favorite pan toh dish, she which my manners and traditions. speaks reverently of pork ancestors came. A year later I had graduwith bamboo shoots, but ated from my MFA program not nearly as reverently as in Michigan, and Chris and she does of cai wei tang, a soup full of whatever vegetables (the I moved to San Francisco. The city is stars of the dish) and meats were fresh known for its world-class Chinatown, specialties of the region. “At the end of but the restaurants there are primarily the banquet we put all of the leftovers Cantonese, a reflection of the city’s into a pot. This is the most delicious,” she Chinese population. The South Bay told me, laughing. “The secret ingredient where I’d grown up was only an hour away, but it felt too far to go by myself to is everyone’s saliva!” Taiwanese banquets were how my par- dine, especially because my parents had ents celebrated their own wedding and moved back to Taiwan while I was in many others, so it made sense that a ban- graduate school. And so I took a long quet hall like Hong Fu became the locus pause from eating Chinese food. I of my family’s celebrations in the U.S. enjoyed all the culinary variety that San When my white, Southern boyfriend (now Francisco offered me, but if I truly husband) visited me in California for the thought about the food that I’d grown up first time, I was adamant we go to Hong with, I found myself bereft. Hong Fu served its final meal on Fu. We’d met in college on the East Coast, back when Chris’s understanding of Chi- June 22, 2019. The owners’ children had nese food did not extend far beyond kung sought careers outside of the restaurant, pao chicken and General Tso’s; over the so there was no one to take over the busiyears of our courtship, my family and I ness. I went with my remaining Bay Area grew to love his adventurous appetite and family on that last day, to enjoy our final even declared him to have a “Chinese Hong Fu banquet. It was a bittersweet stomach.” When his New Orleanian family occasion, in which I relished the plates of met mine and discovered Hong Fu for spicy pork and chili-soaked sea bass but themselves, the most passionate fan couldn’t bear the thought of never eating
there again. My cousins, who had been eating at the restaurant since they sat in high chairs, had brought their long-term partners to the meal, which marked a passage of time that Chris and I found astonishing. We ate the same tea-smoked duck that I loved. As we left the bustling restaurant, I snapped a photo of the sign that hung over the koi pond in front, which thanked the customers, the staff, and their Buddhist guru before ending: We gave our best for the last 29 years With many shared great moments, cherished sweet memories, with gratitude, We Thank You for Everything! A hot pot restaurant was slated to replace Hong Fu—but the last I heard it was still dusty and empty inside.
b
ANQUE T HALLS
in the Bay Area and beyond have been struggling since even before the pandemic, and these closures mean much more than a loss of places to eat. As journalist Melissa Hung and others have documented, banquet halls in many cities are community gathering spaces, particularly for the elderly, who are experiencing an uptick in violence due to anti-Asian hate crimes. A place for celebrations is crucial to keeping Chinatowns glued together: Hung also reports that in San Francisco banquet halls are centers for associations, civic organizations, and
outreach to local politicians. Whereas the banquets I attended growing up were small affairs, a San Francisco Chinatown banquet could summon up to a thousand people. Now many of those grand halls are empty. Though I was never a part of that community, I can easily picture the shuttered doors of Hong Fu and consider the loss of celebrations and weekly family gatherings—so much more than what’s printed on a menu. This was not, however, the end of banquets for our family. My sister-in-law Claudia’s family, Cantonese from San Francisco, had a favorite banquet restaurant of their own: formerly called May Flower and now called the Hong Kong Flower Lounge. It’s located just outside San Francisco, approximately an hour from where Hong Fu had been. Flower Lounge is a much larger space than Hong Fu, able to seat up to 550 guests at a time. The Michelin Guide’s write-up seems clearly aimed at white diners, referring to it as a “palace of pork buns” patronized by “dim sum die hards.” But when I asked my mother about the Flower Lounge, she too spoke of it with reverence: “We moved to the Bay Area and it was impossible to get a table there!” After Hong Fu closed, our joined families began to have celebrations at Flower Lounge—most memorably, my niece’s Red Egg Party, the Cantonese celebration of a baby’s 100th day. A lunch banquet menu for a Red Egg Party starts at $259 a
table, with 10 people at each table. We ate seafood and bean curd soup; those walnut prawns; Peking duck two ways, including tender sautéed and minced duck in crispy lettuce cups; lobster with ginger and bright green onion; fried noodles with sliced chicken. Other banquets might include braised dried oysters with sprinkles of black moss; white fish, gathered live from tanks and steamed; panfried sticky rice, both chewy and crispy. Why, I asked my sister-in-law, was her family always able to get a seat at the Hong Kong Flower Lounge without hassle? Her grandmother, she explained, had long ago taken care of the owner’s ailing wife. Though her grandmother passed away years ago, the restaurant continues to lavish the Ngs with affection. When I was a child my family frequented a salad bar chain called Fresh Choice. It appealed to us because it was allyou-can-eat American food for under $10. In other words, it was a place for pennypinching immigrants. It was also a place where a white woman once shouted at my mother to “go back to China, and take those brats with you.” My American-born brother and I were, of course, the brats. I care about the continued existence of banquet halls, and Chinese restaurants that serve banquets, because they are the antidotes to Fresh Choice. In a country that prioritizes the white experience, they’re sites that speak to my cultural background, my upbringing. At a banquet restaurant I feel like a member of the in-group, linked to the place and flavors from which my ancestors came. These restaurants offer immigrants a chance to connect where they are comfortable, without the expectation to perform “being American” in a way that demands familiarity with customs, language, and foods. As much as my mother enjoyed discovering the taste of avocados and tiramisu when she moved to America, eating at Hong Fu was like putting on a warm, familiar robe. It felt like a sigh of relief to be served foods that reminded her of home. Today when I take a nonTaiwanese or non-Chinese guest to a banquet, it’s an invitation, a question. I’m asking, as one of my favorite poets Lucille Clifton writes, “won’t you celebrate with me / what I have shaped into a kind of life?” To celebrate a new job, or a birthday, or simply that we have survived. Esmé Weijun Wang is the author of the ‘New York Times’ best-selling essay collection ‘The Collected Schizophrenias.’ A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 37
T R A N S P O R T YO U RS E L F TO T H E S TO R I E D S T R E E T S O F PA R I S W I T H S I X B R E E Z Y R E C I P E S F RO M C O O KB O O K AU T H O R R E B E K A H P E P P L E R
BON APPÉTIT
PAR IS, FRANCE
TEX T BY
PHOTOGR APHS BY
Chala Tyson Tshitundu
Joann Pai
39
W
hen American food writer Rebekah Peppler moved to France in 2015 she wasn’t quite sold on the romantic ideal that lures most visitors. “Paris had always been in the back of my mind, not so much as this fantasy city but a place that I would have to live for my job at some point,” Peppler says. Several years after earning a pastry arts degree at New York’s erstwhile French Culinary Institute, Peppler journeyed to the City of Light in search of greater work opportunities. Since then, life in Paris has burgeoned more than just her career. “France has taught me that food brings people together, but the connection happens whether there’s a meal on the table or not,” she says. Enamored with the intimacy of French hospitality, Peppler started hosting weekly dinner parties in her airy Montmartre apartment. These meals, and the menus she created, are central to her latest cookbook, À Table: Recipes for Cooking + Eating the French Way. “I was really interested in showing Paris as it is—it’s vibrant and beautiful and queer,” she says. At its heart À Table is about curating memorable experiences to share with friends and lovers the way Parisians do. “Gathering became a magical routine. I’d go shopping in the morning at my marché, open up a bottle of wine at 5, and friends would arrive at 6. I always knew that on Sundays I would get to see the people I love. After eating we would go outside and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle.” Here, Peppler extends a seat at her table for a full Parisian lunch, including buttery new potatoes covered in Mimolette cheese, fresh radish and herb salad accented with caramelized lemons, a juicy slow-cooked leg of lamb that’s sure to be the pièce de résistance, and more. “I feel grateful for the opportunity to show love the way that I do,” Peppler says, “which is by having people over and feeding them.” 40
EGGS RÉMOULADE P. 4 3
Peppler enjoys aperitifs with partner Laila Said on the balcony of their Montmartre home.
SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB P. 47
NEW P OTATOES WITH MIMOLETTE P. 4 4
Chambéry Cassis MAKES 1
The winey depth of crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) hums softly in the background of this sparkly crimson aperitif that’s easy to stir together and even easier to drink. Be sure to seek out dry white vermouth, such as Dolin Dry Vermouth de Chambéry, which is pale and aromatic, rather than sweeter blanc, or bianco, vermouth. 3 oz. dry vermouth ½ oz. crème de cassis or Chambord ½ oz. fresh lemon juice Chilled club soda (for serving) Red currants or orange twist (for serving; optional)
CHAMBÉRY CASSIS
Pour vermouth, crème de cassis, and lemon juice into a Collins glass filled with ice. Stir gently with a bar spoon or other long-handled spoon to combine. Top off glass with club soda and garnish with currants or an orange twist if desired.
Citrus-Marinated Olives 6 S E RV I N G S
This “olive lovers only” mix goes great with a drink, whether it’s an aperitif for one or cocktails for a small crowd. Layered with orange, coriander, and peppercorns, the simple marinade offers an easy upgrade for a storebought staple. 1 small navel orange, quartered, thinly sliced 8 large garlic cloves, lightly crushed 2 bay leaves ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 sprigs thyme 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, crushed 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, crushed 2 cups mixed olives (such as Niçoise, Picholine, and/or Cerignola) Cook orange, garlic, bay leaves, and oil in a small saucepan over medium heat, swirling occasionally, until garlic is sizzling and golden around the edges, 8–12 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in thyme sprigs, vinegar, peppercorns, and coriander seeds. Let cool until marinade is lukewarm, about 20 minutes. Place olives in a small bowl and pour marinade over. Let sit at room temperature 1–4 hours before serving. D O A H E A D : Olives can be marinated 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.
CITRUSMARINATED OLIVES
Eggs Rémoulade 6 S E RV I N G S
Rémoulade, the classic combination of mayonnaise, herbs, capers, cornichons, and “just enough” anchovy, turns hard-boiled eggs into an ideal snack for company. If you’re short on time, just set out unshelled hardboiled eggs in a bowl, spoon rémoulade in another, and let guests have at it. 12 large eggs 1 oil-packed anchovy fillet, finely chopped ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. finely chopped cornichons 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard ½ tsp. finely chopped drained capers ⅓ cup finely chopped tender herbs (such as parsley, chives, tarragon, and/or dill), plus more for serving
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Hot sauce and/or flaky sea salt (for serving; optional) Pour water into a medium saucepan to come 1" up the sides and bring to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, gently lower eggs into water. Cover pan, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook 10 minutes. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool, about 5 minutes. Peel eggs and slice in half lengthwise. Arrange cut side up on a platter or large plate. Stir anchovy, mayonnaise, cornichons, lime juice, mustard, capers, and ⅓ cup herbs in a small bowl until well combined. Season rémoulade with salt and pepper. Spoon ½ Tbsp. rémoulade over each egg half. Top with more herbs, followed by hot sauce and sea salt (if using). 43
Fried Lemon and Radish Salad 6 S E RV I N G S
With fried lemons, herbs, radishes, and pistachios, this salad effortlessly bridges winter and spring. Don’t skip blanching the lemon slices; it takes only a few minutes and stamps out unwanted bitterness in the pith.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Flaky sea salt 3 oz. tender salad greens (such as arugula or mâche; about 3 cups) 2 cups coarsely chopped parsley leaves with tender stems 1 cup mint leaves, torn if large 1 bunch red radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
D R E SS I N G
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced ¼ cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely chopped drained capers 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. honey ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
½ cup raw pistachios 1 large lemon Kosher salt FRIED LEMON AND RADISH SALAD
Whisk shallots, vinegar, lemon juice, capers, mustard, and honey in a small bowl; let sit at least 10 minutes and up to 1 hour. Whisk in oil and season dressing with salt and pepper. D O A H E A D : Dressing can be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill. D R E SS I N G
Toast pistachios in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until golden brown in spots, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop. Thinly slice lemon crosswise into rounds; pluck out seeds and discard.
Cook lemon slices in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water until just barely tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Working in batches, cook lemon slices, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and season with sea salt; let cool. Set aside a few lemon slices for serving. Transfer remaining lemon slices to a cutting board and coarsely chop. Drizzle half of dressing in a large bowl. Add greens, parsley, mint, radishes, and chopped lemon slices; toss to coat. Top with pistachios and reserved lemon slices. Serve remaining dressing alongside.
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
New Potatoes With Mimolette 6 S E RV I N G S
As with many things in life, these tender, deeply golden potatoes are even better showered with a flurry of cheese. If you can’t find sweet, nutty, electric orange Mimolette, substitute with Parmesan, aged Gouda, or aged cheddar. Each alternative will lend its own flavor to the final dish, but at the end of the day they’re still potatoes covered in cheese, and that’s never a bad thing. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 lb. new or other small waxy potatoes (about 1" in diameter), scrubbed, halved Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided 2 tsp. piment d’Espelette or smoked paprika, plus more for serving 4 oz. Mimolette, Parmesan, aged Gouda, or aged cheddar, finely grated Heat oil in a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. Add potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until potatoes are golden brown all over, 10–12 minutes. Add butter, 2 Tbsp. lime juice, 2 tsp. piment d’Espelette, and ½ cup water to skillet. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook, tossing occasionally, until potatoes are fork-tender and no liquid remains, 10–12 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 1 Tbsp. lime juice. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Transfer potatoes to a platter and blanket with cheese. Dust generously with more piment d’Espelette.
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PEPPLER’S
Paris
Rebekah shares where she eats, drinks, and shops around the city
Marché Popincourt The fruit stand at this farmers market is my favorite place to shop in the summer. When I buy melons, they always ask when I’ll be eating them (tonight, tomorrow, in three days?)—and pick one that’s ripe exactly when I need it to be. La Cave Verre Volé I always pair a market run with a stop at this natural wine store for a bottle of Marie Rocher’s EmmenezMoi or Julie Balagny’s O Bella Ciao. Le Verre Volé has multiple locations across the city, but I frequent La Cave on Rue Oberkampf. Folderol Ordering a glass of something bubbly and a plate of thinly sliced finocchiona at this wine bar and ice cream shop is one of the top perks of living in Paris. I’ll inevitably head home with two to four bottles and a pint of pistache, huile d’olive, yaourt, or cannelle ice cream. Early June Owners Camille and Victor have created a truly special space at this restaurant in the 10th arrondissement—the guest chefs are rotating; the produce and proteins are impeccably sourced; and the wine is always perfect. Sur Mer This seafood spot is owned by an awesome woman, Olive Davoux. On date nights my partner and I like to stop in for oysters and a drink while we wait for a table to open up around the block at Early June.
Peppler shopping for produce at the Marché Monge in Paris’s 5th arrondissement 45
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Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb 6 S E RV I N G S
In this version of a classic Provençal recipe, adapted from Peppler’s book ‘À Table,’ a leg of lamb is cooked low and slow with a few aromatics, some wine, and not much else until the meat is so tender you could eat it with a spoon. The vibrant green, garlicky persillade provides a sharp counterpoint to the rich meat. Leftover lamb is equally good repurposed in sandwiches with bitter greens and plenty of mayo. LAMB
1 4–6-lb. bone-in leg of lamb Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 5 garlic cloves, lightly crushed 8 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves 2 cups dry rosé
FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. RECIPES FOR CHAMBÉRY CASSIS AND SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM À TABLE: RECIPES FOR COOKING + EATING THE FRENCH WAY BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. COPYRIGHT © 2021 BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. PUBLISHED BY CHRONICLE BOOKS.
P E R S I L L A D E A N D ASS E M B LY
1 cup (packed) parsley leaves with tender stems 6 garlic cloves ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 275°. Season lamb liberally with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy ovenproof pot over medium-high. Cook lamb, turning occasionally with tongs, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes; transfer to a plate. LAMB
Peppler often sets out a tray of snacks and sweets to finish the meal in lieu of a structured dessert.
Add onion, garlic, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves to pot. Pour in rosé and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Return lamb to pot, cover with a lid, and transfer to oven. Roast until meat is very tender and nearly falling off the bone, 5–7 hours. At least 2 hours after the lamb has been cooking, pulse parsley and garlic in a food processor until finely chopped. Pulse in oil just to combine. Season persillade with salt and pepper; transfer to a small bowl. Carefully remove lamb from cooking liquid and transfer to a platter. (Strain cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl and skim fat; save liquid to use in soups, in braises, or for making beans.) Serve lamb with persillade alongside. D O A H E A D : Persillade can be made 5 hours ahead. Store tightly covered at room temperature. P E R S I L L A D E A N D ASS E M B LY
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I N H I S N E W B O O K , T H E C O O K YO U WA N T T O B E , A N DY BA R AG H A N I S H A R E S R E C I P E S I N S P I R E D BY H I S T R AV E L S A RO U N D T H E WO R L D — A N D T H E T I P S A N D T R I C KS H E ’ S P I C KE D U P A LO N G T H E WAY
The Travel Issue BON APPÉTIT
BEEN
PHOTOGR APHS BY
TEX T BY
RECIPES BY
Graydon Herriott
Alex Beggs
Andy Baraghani
I
f I ever find myself in Beruit, needing to tell a hot stranger that I want to kiss them, I can consult a Google doc from Andy Baraghani. The doc includes useful phrases, museum musts, and restaurant recs—so I can go find myself a nice shawarma snack if things don’t (or do) work out with that stranger. Andy’s travel notes are organized and plentiful. “I take it seriously,” he says. “Even if you’re not staying in fancy hotels, traveling is a luxury.” Andy is not a traveler who sleeps in.
He spends weeks researching where to eat, what to do, and where to shop, tapping his global network of food people and poring through photos on Yelp, Tripadvisor, and local blogs. “My research gives me the lay of the land,” he says, “but once I’m there, I’m open.” He’ll wander into a café to follow the scent of
roast chicken and has been known—in the past—to derail a dinner reservation if he falls temporarily in love with a local. Andy’s new cookbook, The Cook You Want to Be, is a bright and lavish collection of recipes inspired by his travels, his Persian family, his restaurant experience, and his time in Bon Appétit’s test kitchen. I worked with Andy on the book and got to know his recipes inside and out. For this story we’ve picked a few that use techniques and flavors from his travels, which he brings home like souvenirs. Each recipe is tied to a specific memory of place, from a fragrant fish sauce factory in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, to the bustling marketplaces of Morocco. To get your hands on Andy’s extensive travel guides, subscribe to his newsletter (andybaraghani.substack.com), where he plans on sharing them alongside new recipes each week.
PHOTOGRAPH BY WOLFGANG KAEHLER/GETTY IMAGES
THAT
K U K U K A D O O P. 5 3
Iran
Andy’s memory: Whenever my family goes to Iran, they bring me back lavashak (a kids’ candy that’s like an extra-jammy fruit leather in flavors like quince, unripe grapes, and sour cherry) along with market spices like saffron and turmeric—a key flavoring and coloring agent for classic Iranian dishes like this one.
Andy’s technique: My first Persian recipe for Bon Appétit was kuku sabzi, an herbaceous egg dish that every Persian family— and cook—has a spin on. Kuku kadoo is a zucchini frittata, and I like to caramelize the zucchini so it gets sweet and a lot more interesting. Try taking a wedge and eating it as a sandwich!
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BUT TERED P OTATOES WITH SALTED LEMON
Morocco
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Andy’s memory: In the U.S. we don’t have as big of a street food culture as other countries, and in Morocco I was just going from one fruit stand to the next. Oranges, pomegranates, lemons that have been salted and jarred. I brought back a hand-carved wooden spoon and a beautiful embroidered kitchen towel that I’m too afraid to use.
Andy’s technique: This comforting dish mimics the fall-apart potatoes that soak up the savory stewed meat juices in a Moroccan tagine, but you can also just think of it as a warm potato salad. Assertive preserved lemons mellow out with butter, a method I like to employ with other fermented foods (like kimchi) as well.
Buttered Potatoes With Salted Lemon 4 S E RV I N G S
These small golden potatoes are boiled until fluffy, then dressed with a combination of rich butter and bright preserved lemon (plus its brine) for a salty, creamy, punchy side. To make the dish dairy-free—or to serve it at room temperature without the fat setting— swap in ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil for the butter.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GRAYDON HERRIOTT (PORTRAIT); COURTESY OF ANDY BARAGHANI (TRAVEL PHOTOS).
2 lb. small waxy potatoes (such as peewees, fingerlings, or new potatoes) Kosher salt 1 preserved lemon, seeds removed, finely chopped, plus 2 Tbsp. (or more) brine ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 small bunch chives or 3 scallions, thinly sliced 1 cup coarsely chopped dill Freshly ground black pepper Place potatoes in a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until potatoes are very tender and easily pierced with a paring knife, 10–15 minutes, depending on the size of your potatoes. Drain and let cool 10 minutes. Lightly crush potatoes with your hands (or press with the bottom of a small bowl); transfer to a serving bowl. Add preserved lemon, brine, and butter to bowl with potatoes and toss until butter is melted and potatoes have soaked up dressing (they should taste extremely lemony). Add chives, dill, and lots of pepper and toss again evenly distribute. Taste potatoes and add more brine and season with more salt and/or pepper if needed.
Baraghani’s first cookbook, ‘The Cook You Want to Be: Everyday Recipes to Impress,’ is out April 26.
Andy Baraghani (top); a sunny corner in Naples 51
BIG SHELLS WITH SPICY LAMB SAUSAGE AND PISTACHIOS
Andy’s technique: In Italy less is more when you have good ingredients. Italian cooks use just enough sauce to balance the noodles—don’t expect a big pool at the bottom of your bowl. Also key: selecting the right pasta. Big shells hold strong against in-your-face sauce, lamb sausage, bitter broccoli rabe, and bright lemon zest.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVE G KELLY/GETTY IMAGES
Italy
Andy’s memory: Just so, so, so much pasta.
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Big Shells With Spicy Lamb Sausage and Pistachios 6 S E RV I N G S
Jumbo shells should not be reserved for stuffed pasta dishes only. Here they meld with spiced lamb sausage and bracing broccoli rabe that tuck into every nook and cranny. “The bitter broccoli rabe cuts through the sausage party,” Baraghani says, “while raw—not toasted— pistachios bring a fresh buttery crunch.” 1 bunch broccoli rabe 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. spicy lamb or hot Italian pork sausage, casings removed 12 oz. jumbo shells or paccheri Kosher salt 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ⅓ cup coarsely chopped raw pistachios Finely grated Parmesan (for serving) Trim thick stems from broccoli rabe and reserve for another use (like a stir-fry). Coarsely chop greens and remaining tender stems; set aside. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Using your hands, grab small clumps of sausage (you’re going for rustic meatballs about the size of a golf ball) and add to pot. Cook, turning each piece as it becomes crusty, until deeply golden brown all over, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a plate, leaving fat behind. Remove pot from heat and reserve. If sausage has given off a lot of fat, tip some of it into a bowl; you want about 2 Tbsp. left in the pot (save the rest for another use—like frying eggs). Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of generously salted boiling water, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente, about 1 minute less than package directions (it’ll finish cooking in the sauce). Drain pasta, reserving 1½ cups pasta cooking liquid. Set reserved pot with fat over medium-low heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Add reserved broccoli rabe, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until greens are wilted and bright green, about 4 minutes. Return sausage to pot along with any juices on the plate. Break up sausage into smaller but still coarse pieces with a wooden spoon.
Add butter, pasta, and ¾ cup pasta cooking liquid to pot. Cook, tossing often and adding more pasta cooking liquid a tablespoon or two at a time if needed, until pasta is coated in sauce, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, add lemon zest and lemon juice, and toss to coat. Divide pasta among bowls and top with pistachios and Parmesan.
Clams With Crispy Ham and Butter Beans 4 S E RV I N G S
Place your aioli-slathered toast at the bottom of your bowl before loading it up with clams, beans, and crispy Serrano ham—it will soak up the flavorful broth to ensure you don’t miss a drop. Says Baraghani: “I don’t even use utensils for this meal. I get in there with my hands and end up with clam broth all over my beard. Worth it.”
Kuku Kadoo 4 S E RV I N G S
Kukus (a type of Persian egg dish) can be made with a wide variety of fillings, like potatoes, eggplant, even dates. This spring-y version pairs tender leeks and zucchini with earthy turmeric and a serious scattering of herbs on top—to make it a full meal, serve each slice with a dollop of yogurt and a warm flatbread or two. 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 3 medium zucchini or summer squash (about 12 oz.), thinly sliced 2 medium leeks, white, pale green, and dark green parts, halved lengthwise, coarsely chopped Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ¾ tsp. ground turmeric 8 large eggs, beaten to blend ½ cup coarsely chopped dill and/or parsley Lemon wedges (for serving) Heat a large ovenproof nonstick or cast-iron skillet with a lid over medium. Combine garlic and ¼ cup oil in pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden around the edges, about 2 minutes. Add zucchini and leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally, until zucchini and leeks are very tender and almost jammy, 15–17 minutes. Sprinkle turmeric over and stir until vegetables are coated. Drizzle more oil around edges of skillet, then pour in eggs and season with salt and pepper. Swirl pan a few times to incorporate ingredients (also using a rubber spatula works well here). Cook, undisturbed, until eggs are set around edges of pan, 1–2 minutes. Cover and cook until bottom is set but top is still a little wet, about 4 minutes. Heat broiler. Uncover skillet and broil kuku, watching closely, until top is set and lightly browned, 2–3 minutes. Remove skillet from broiler and scatter herbs over kuku, squeeze juice from lemon wedges over, and season with more pepper.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 slices Serrano ham or prosciutto 3 spring onions or 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste 2 tsp. smoked paprika 1 cup dry white wine 4 lb. small clams (such as littleneck or Manila; about 44), scrubbed 1 15-oz. can butter, cannellini, or other white beans, rinsed 1 cup coarsely chopped parsley 1 cup store-bought or homemade aioli or mayonnaise 4 thick slices country-style bread, toasted Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Arrange half of ham in pot in a single layer and cook, turning once or twice, until crisp, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, transfer to paper towels, leaving any fat in pot behind, and let drain. Repeat with remaining ham. Set aside. Add onions and garlic to same pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened but without taking on any color, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and paprika and cook, stirring often, until paste deepens to a dark brick red, about 2 minutes. Pour in wine and cook until reduced by half, 2–3 minutes. Add clams, cover pot, and cook, shaking pot occasionally, until clams open, 3–7 minutes, depending on their size. Transfer clams to a large bowl with a slotted spoon as they open; discard any that don’t open. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add beans to pot and stir, letting beans soak up some of the clam broth, until warmed through, 1–2 minutes. Return clams to pot and remove from heat. Scatter half of parsley over and toss well. Slather aioli over toasts and place in bowls. Ladle clam mixture over toast. Top with remaining parsley. Crush reserved crispy ham and scatter over. 53
CLAMS WITH CRISPY HAM A N D B U T T E R B E A N S P. 5 3
Spain Smoky and Crunchy Peas With Creamy Nuoc Cham 4 S E RV I N G S
This savory side dish comes together in minutes—and our guess is that you’ll make the highly craveable blender sauce again and again. Toasted cashews add creaminess to classic nuoc cham, which Baraghani spoons over blistered peas and tender shoots but is also good with any other vegetable. ⅔ 1 2 3 1 54
cup raw cashews red Fresno chile, chopped garlic cloves, crushed Tbsp. fresh lime juice Tbsp. fish sauce
Andy’s memory: Spain is one of my favorite countries from which to bring back food. In Madrid I’d stock up on olive oil, wines, preserved fish, and cured meat from all the mercados.
2 tsp. granulated sugar Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. snow peas and/or sugar snap peas, trimmed, some sliced some left whole 1 cup pea shoots (tendrils) Lime wedges (for serving) Preheat oven to 350°. Toast cashews on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until golden brown, 7–9 minutes. Let cool. Purée cashews, chile, garlic, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 3 Tbsp. water in a blender, adding more water
Andy’s technique: I finally understood why people pair meat with seafood when I was in Spain; a little pork brings depth to briny, light clams (alongside an acidic white wine). Thinking of meat as a seasoning, not a main component, is the key.
as needed to loosen, until smooth. Taste and season with salt if needed. (Even though the sauce includes salty fish sauce, it may need some added salt.) Set creamy nuoc cham aside. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high until almost smoking, add peas, season with salt, and toss to coat in oil. Cook peas, letting them get blistered underneath before tossing, until all of the peas are a little charred but still have their crunchy texture, 3–4 minutes. Transfer peas to a platter and spoon reserved creamy nuoc cham over. Scatter pea tendrils on top and serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.
SMOKY AND CRUNCHY PEAS WITH CREAMY NUOC CHAM
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIK/GETTY IMAGES
Vietnam
Andy’s memory: I’ll never forget visiting the Red Boat fish sauce factory in Phu Quoc, Vietnam. There were rows and rows of huge barrels, five times bigger than me, full of fermenting anchovies turning into glossy, amber sauce. The salty, funky flavor sunk into my pores. I was very well-seasoned.
Andy’s technique: Nuoc cham—a dipping sauce of fish sauce, lime juice, chile, garlic, and sugar—varies across Vietnam; some are sweeter, some more savory. This one is less potent than the average but creamy thanks to toasted, buttery cashews. It clings to whatever you’re dressing. Here that’s snow peas, but you can also use it on salads, rice, eggs, or simple stir-fried greens.
Lebanon
The memory: In Lebanon I ate fast. I remember standing outside a shawarma shop in Beirut with friends who spoke a chaotic mash-up of Arabic, French, and English all at once, drinking a cold Coke, piling as many pickles onto my chicken shawarma as possible, and licking the garlicky toum from my fingers.
The technique: Chefs know that yogurt is a great tenderizer and it’s a common marinade throughout the Levant region. I use a generous amount to create a crust on this chicken. The fat in the yogurt also makes an effective vessel in which spices can bloom, releasing their aromatics in the heat of the oven.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ABBOUD AZER/GETTY IMAGES
SHAWARMA ROAST CHICKEN WITH SHALLOTS AND LEMONS
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ANETA FLORCZYK. RECIPES FOR BUTTERED POTATOES; CLAMS; AND BIG SHELLS EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE COOK YOU WANT TO BE: RECIPES TO IMPRESS BY ANDY BARAGHANI. COPYRIGHT © 2022 BY ANDY BARAGHANI. PUBLISHED BY LORENA JONES BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.
Clockwise from left: Baalbek ruins in Lebanon; outside an antique shop in Naples; frizzled onions at a market in Beirut
Shawarma Roast Chicken With Shallots and Lemons 4 S E RV I N G S
This chicken is coated in a deeply spiced yogurt made with all the shawarma heavy hitters—coriander, cumin, turmeric, pepper, and more—and left to sit for just 30 minutes (if you’re not in a rush, it can spend up to 12 hours in the fridge). Roasting it alongside halved shallots and sliced lemons means you get jammy and crispy accompanying bites built right in, cooked in the rich chicken juices. 1 1½ 1½ 1½ ¾ 4 ¼
Tbsp. coriander seeds tsp. cumin seeds tsp. black peppercorns tsp. smoked paprika tsp. ground turmeric garlic cloves, finely grated cup whole-milk plain Greek yogurt or sour cream 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken, patted dry
Kosher salt 3 medium shallots, halved lengthwise 1 lemon, sliced into ¼"-thick rounds, seeds removed 4 oregano or thyme sprigs, plus leaves for serving Flaky sea salt (for serving) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
A spice mill
Finely grind coriander seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns, paprika, and turmeric in a spice mill. Transfer spice mixture to a small bowl; whisk in garlic, yogurt, and 2 Tbsp. oil. Generously season chicken with salt, then smear yogurt mixture all over. Let sit on a rimmed baking sheet at room temperature at least 30 minutes, or chill, uncovered, up to 12 hours. If chilling, let chicken sit at room temperature 30 minutes before roasting. Preheat oven to 425°. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Place chicken, breast side up, in
pan, then nestle shallots, cut side down, and lemon slices around. Season shallots and lemon with salt. Tuck in oregano sprigs and cook, undisturbed, until shallots are starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Pour ½ cup water into pan; transfer skillet to oven, arranging so legs are pointing toward back of oven. Roast until skin has taken on some color, 10–15 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°; continue to roast until chicken is cooked through and tender (an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of breast should register 155°; it will climb to 165° as the chicken rests) and shallots are jammy, 60–70 minutes. Let rest 15 minutes. Transfer chicken to a cutting board and carve as desired. Arrange on a platter; tuck shallots and lemon slices around. Spoon juices in pan over, top with oregano leaves, and sprinkle with sea salt. 57
BON APPÉTIT
The Travel Issue
PIEDMONT, I T A LY
C H E F S T E FA N O S E C C H I O F N E W YO R K C I T Y ’ S R E Z D Ô R A F I N D S H I S I N S P I R AT I O N
THE GEMS OF
I
grew up in Texas, but my family is from Lombardy and Sardinia, so I’ve been going back and forth to Italy since I was a kid. I’ve always been attracted to the food and wine culture of Piedmont. With six growing seasons more or less instead of four, the region has incredible produce; the town of Alba is where white truffles
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originated. As you drive up and down the hills and mountains, you’re surrounded by green fields and vineyards,with fog often creeping in. When there’s a thunderstorm coming, you might even hear cannons early in the morning or late at night—the bursts of sound are thought to disperse the rain and protect the grapes. Because Piedmont has
everything I could ask for in terms of food, I knew I had to cook there. I looked at a few restaurants, and I ate at a lot of them. All’Enoteca stood out; I worked there in late 2014. It’s run by chef Davide Palluda, who became a mentor to me. What changed my life in Piedmont is its chefs’ dedication to detail. There’s tradition behind it: They’re
PHOTOGR APHS BY
AS TOLD TO
Bettina Makalintal
respecting the diets and practices that have been built for hundreds of years. You can bring a contemporary eye, but what I learned from Davide—and from Piedmont as a whole—is that you have to know tradition before you can innovate. I run my own restaurant in New York now, but I go back to the region four times a year.
Paola + Murray
My thing has always been to stay away from the tourist spots and find the little gems. I get the best recommendations drinking around tables with friends, wine producers, and other chefs. This osteria does this; this trattoria does that. I made a huge list of all their picks and then I started eating at them. Here I’ll let you in on some
of my favorite places to eat and drink in hopes you get as excited about Piedmont as I am. And if you can’t visit, I’ll share recipes inspired by the region and its restaurants to bring a piece of Piedmont to your home kitchen. Classic dishes, good wine—it rarely gets better. — ST E FA N O S E CC H I
Bagna Cauda With Spring Vegetables 4 S E RV I N G S
Slowly heating anchovies and garlic over a double boiler turns them soft and jammy so you can easily smash them into a paste. The dressing will separate and settle rather than form a cohesive emulsion, so it’s a good moment to use your best olive oil.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALBERTO BERNASCONI
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 14 garlic cloves 12 olive-oil-packed anchovy fillets (from at least a 2-oz. tin) Chilled crunchy raw produce (such as radishes, carrots, baby lettuces, fennel, romanesco, endive, and/or unripe pears; for serving) Pour water into a small pot or large saucepan to come 2" up the sides; bring to a simmer. Combine oil, garlic, and anchovies in a bowl that will fit snugly on top of pot without touching the water. Set over simmering water and cook, without stirring but adjusting heat as needed so only a few bubbles are breaking on the surface of the oil, until mixture is hot and garlic is soft, 75–85 minutes. Remove pan from heat with the bowl still set on top. Let cool 15 minutes, then smash garlic with a fork or wooden spoon and mix well with anchovies. Transfer warm bagna cauda to a small bowl and serve with produce alongside for dipping.
Porcini Gnocchi With Butter Sauce 4 S E RV I N G S
For the best and lightest gnocchi, Secchi suggests using slightly older potatoes: “They have less moisture content, so you can add less flour and keep your gnocchi from getting gummy.” Roasting the potatoes on a wire rack also helps eliminate moisture, allowing steam to escape from every bit of the skins. As for forming the gnocchi, look no further than your flatware drawer. “You can use a gnocchi board,” Secchi says, “but my nonna always used a fork.” 6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about 2 lb.) ½ oz. dried porcini mushrooms (about ⅓ cup) 1⅔ cups (208 g) Italian 00 flour or all-purpose flour ¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 large egg, beaten to blend ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 12 sage leaves Finely grated Parmesan (for serving) Place rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Poke holes all over potatoes with a fork and place on a wire rack set inside a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast potatoes until flesh is easily pierced with a fork, 45–60 minutes. Let sit until just cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Peel potatoes and pass through a potato ricer (or use the bottom of a glass to push through a fine-mesh sieve). Place in a large bowl and let cool completely. Meanwhile, pulse dried mushrooms in a spice mill or a high-speed blender to a fine powder. Transfer to a medium bowl and add flour and ¼ tsp. salt; whisk to combine. Add dry ingredients and egg to bowl with potatoes and fold together. Then, using your hands, form into a single mass. Turn out onto a work surface and knead until smooth. Cut dough into 6 portions. Working with 1 portion at a time and covering remaining portions with plastic wrap while you work, roll each portion into a rope about ½" wide. Cut into ½"-long pieces and roll each piece along fork to form ridges. Arrange gnocchi in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet (line with parchment paper if making ahead). Cook gnocchi in a large pot of boiling salted water until they float to the surface, about 3 minutes (4 minutes if cooking from frozen). Drain, reserving ½ cup cooking liquid. While the gnocchi is cooking, heat butter in a medium high-sided skillet over medium, stirring often, until it foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes. Add sage leaves and ¼ cup reserved pasta cooking liquid, tilting the pan away from you to protect yourself from spattering. Once spattering has settled down, swirl liquid in pan, then add gnocchi and cook, tossing and adding remaining pasta cooking liquid a little at a time (you might not need all of it) until sauce is combined and creamy and pasta is well coated, about 1 minute. Divide pasta among shallow bowls and top with Parmesan. D O A H E A D : Gnocchi can be formed 3 days ahead. Tightly wrap baking sheet and freeze. 61
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Secchi’ s PIEDMONT “If you’re going to explore the real Piedmont,” Secchi says, you’ll find yourself winding through roads “small enough that it can be hard to get two cars by at the same time.” (He’s happy to wait and let the Italians fly by.) That caution will be rewarded—from modern Piedmontese to nonna’s cooking, these are the places that keep Secchi coming back for more. 3
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“What changed my life in Piedmont is its chefs’ dedication to detail.” 62
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1. ALL’ENOTECA, CANALE The food at the high-end All’Enoteca, where Secchi worked for a year, keeps getting better, he says. The way chef Davide Palluda plays with the line between classic and contemporary continues to impress him. A recent meal included vitello tonnato reimagined as a one-bite course: The Piedmontese sauce of tuna and capers was shaped into a peanut, served on a cracker instead of veal. “You’re expecting a peanut, but it’s tonnato sauce,” Secchi says. “It was a mind-blowing meal.”
2. OSTERIA DA GEMMA, RODDINO In a space that resembles a cozy living room, Osteria da Gemma immerses guests in local tradition. There’s no menu here—you get what chef Gemma Boeri and her cooks feel like making that day, served family-style. “This is how life should be: You have friends, and you’re making pasta together,” Secchi muses. (Piedmont’s dedication to fresh pasta, heavier on egg yolks than in other parts of the country, is a big reason why he loves the region.) This spot gets busy, so Secchi advises making a reservation. The food is worth the wait—and the mountain drive.
3. IL CENTRO, PRIOCCA Under chef Elide Mollo, the menu at this century-old restaurant puts modern touches on time-honored Piedmontese cuisine. Secchi’s favorite dish is the red bell pepper, cut in half and done sottaceto—pickled in a vinegar-based mixture (so secret that only Mollo knows the recipe) for at least four months—and served with anchovies and olive oil. “It embodies Italian food,” Secchi says. “It’s so simple but executed with the best ingredients possible.” Il Centro also has a stellar wine list, Secchi adds.
4. OSTERIA DELLE AIE, CASTELLINALDO D’ALBA The wine at this intimate restaurant comes in magnums. “That magnum comes with a caveat: You have to share the wine with all the other tables,” Secchi explains. “That’s just how things work, and it’s an excellent idea,” allowing you to try many wines in a single visit. A dolcetto table wine paired particularly well with thin strands of tajarin pasta, glazed with meat ragù, he recalls. Simple things shine here, like risotto with Castelmagno cheese, into which you mix a dark orange egg yolk. Don’t worry when your bottle is whisked away; another will soon follow.
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5
5. VILLA TIBOLDI, CANALE Perched amid Malvirà winery’s vineyard is Villa Tiboldi, an 18th-century farmhouse. It’s a place so special that Secchi is almost reluctant to share it. Be glad he did. With only 10 rooms, Villa Tiboldi feels like a family home. With its own restaurant and pool, the villa is an all-in-one escape—with the best cantinas of La Morra, Barolo, and Barbaresco just a 30-minute drive away. For a hands-on approach, you can help pick grapes (“Hard to do, but an incredible experience,” Secchi says).
6. TRATTORIA MARSUPINO 1901, BRIAGLIA The Marsupino family has run their eponymous trattoria in the small town of Briaglia since—you guessed it—1901. With brothers Matteo and Luca now in charge of the kitchen and the stocked wine cellar, Marsupino highlights the younger generation’s freer approach to the region’s cuisine. Get the fried tripe. Crispy, delicate, and not too chewy, “it melts in the mouth,” Secchi says. Upstairs is lodging in the style of agriturismo, the Italian practice of booking overnight stays on farms and other agricultural sites.
P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L B E R TO B E R N AS C O N I
P O R C I N I G N O C C H I W I T H B U T T E R S A U C E P. 61
The misty forests of Piedmont are perfect for mushroom foraging. Fresh porcinis pair with gnocchi at Il Centro; this recipe is an ode to that dish, but it uses dried porcinis, which are easier to find around the world. They’re ground into powder and mixed into the dough.
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B A G N A C A U D A W I T H S P R I N G V E G E T A B L E S P. 61
This warm anchovy dip has been made in Piedmont since at least the 16th century. Though American versions often include cream, Secchi keeps it classic: nothing more than anchovies, olive oil, and garlic—paired with the season’s snappiest raw vegetables.
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Asparagus With Parmesan Fonduta 4 S E RV I N G S
In this twist on a classic fonduta, Secchi uses the salted water left over from blanching asparagus to emulsify the sauce instead of cream or butter. The heat from the water gently “cooks” the egg yolks and melts the Parmesan, forming a rich, velvety blanket to coat your vegetables. 1 large bunch asparagus, woody ends trimmed 3 large egg yolks 3½ oz. Parmesan, finely grated 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Cook asparagus in a large pot of boiling generously salted water until dark green and just crisp-tender, about 30 seconds for pencil-thin stalks and up to 2½ minutes for thicker stalks. Using tongs, immediately transfer asparagus to a large bowl of ice water; let sit 30 seconds. Transfer to a kitchen towel and pat dry; arrange on a platter. Measure 3 Tbsp. cooking liquid from pot and set aside in a small bowl. Blend egg yolks, Parmesan, and oil in a blender on low speed, scraping down sides as needed, until well combined. Increase speed to high and, with motor running, gradually drizzle in reserved hot cooking liquid; blend until smooth and emulsified. Immediately pour fonduta over asparagus.
Cherry and Dark Chocolate Crostata 8 S E RV I N G S
A sprinkling of chopped chocolate under the cherry filling in this tart makes every bite both rich and fruity. Serve with a glass of amaro for the ultimate end to any meal.
A S PA R AG U S W I T H PA R M E SA N F O N D U TA
Wild asparagus grows abundantly in Northern Italy and is often paired with cheese sauce in Piedmont. “When asparagus is coming up, it’s typically still colder at night, and the fonduta is nice and warming,” Secchi says.
2 tsp. cornstarch Big pinch of kosher salt ⅓ cup (67 g) sugar, plus more for sprinkling 2 oz. dark chocolate (at least 70% cacao), coarsely chopped 1 large egg, beaten to blend
DOUGH
2 cups (250 g) Italian 00 flour or all-purpose flour ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 11 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk ½ tsp. vanilla extract F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
3⅓ cups fresh (or frozen) sweet cherries (about 20 oz.), pitted 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
A 9"- or 10"-diameter tart pan with removable bottom S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
Pulse flour, sugar, lemon zest, baking powder, and salt in a food processor to combine. Add butter and pulse until mixture is the consistency of wet sand. Add egg, egg yolk, and vanilla and pulse again to combine. The mixture should still look crumbly but hold together when squeezed in your hand. Turn out onto a surface and smash and pat into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 1 hour. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. DOUGH
Cook cherries, lemon juice, cornstarch, salt, and ⅓ cup (67 g) sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until cherries have burst but still have some body and juices have thickened, 6–8 minutes. Let cool at least 15 minutes. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Roll out dough to about ¼" thick. Transfer to tart pan; lift up dough, allowing it to slump into corners, then press lightly into pan. Trim excess so dough is flush with rim. Set extra dough aside. Scatter chocolate across crust, then top with filling. Reroll reserved dough; cut into strips or cut out into other shapes. Use strips to make a lattice top or decorate with shapes as desired. Brush dough with egg and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until golden brown, 20–25 minutes. Let cool at least 15 minutes to let filling set. D O A H E A D : Filling can be made 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Crostata can be baked 4 days ahead; let cool completely. Store covered at room temperature. F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY MARINA BEVILACQUA.
CHERRY AND DARK CHOCOL ATE CROSTATA
For a staff meal at All’Enoteca, Secchi recalls Chef Palluda making a tart of dark chocolate and cherries—many varieties of which can be found in Piedmont in the spring and summer. “It was one of the most amazing desserts I’d ever had,” he says.
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TEX T & RECIPES BY
Zaynab Issa & Mehreen Karim
PHOTOGR APHS BY
Emma Fishman
ENJOYED OFTEN DURING RAMADAN AFTER A LONG DAY OF FASTING. WE LOVE THEM FOLDED INTO COOKIE DOUGH, CARAMELIZED IN A HOT SKILLET, OR MELTED INTO A HEART Y BRAISE.
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SPICE-CRUSTED CARROTS WITH DATE AND HERB SALAD
Spice-Crusted Carrots With Date and Herb Salad 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
These crisp-tender carrots get their texture from high-heat roasting and a shawarma-style spice blend. Dates add sweetness and chew to an herby-spicy salad that works with anything from pan-fried chicken to roasted cauliflower. CARROTS
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. ground turmeric ½ tsp. sweet paprika ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ⅛ tsp. ground cardamom ⅛ tsp. ground cloves 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1½ lb. medium carrots, tops trimmed to ½", scrubbed, halved lengthwise
Date
THE FARMER AND THE Alya Haq, owner of Nature’s Anthem farm in California’s Coachella Valley, didn’t realize how much dates meant to her until she left her childhood home in the United Arab Emirates. No packaged supermarket date could compare to the supple Medjools and Barhis she’d grown up eating. A few decades later she found herself in the Coachella Valley, surrounded by lusher-than-life date farms that produced fruit just as delicious as Haq remembered from Dubai. One serendipitous farm purchase and many, many harvests later, she now distributes over a million pounds of dates each year. Order a two-pound box ($20) of Medjools at naturesanthem.com.
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 7 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped 2 jalapeños, seeds removed, coarsely chopped 1 cup coarsely chopped tender herbs (such as cilantro, dill, or parsley) 1 cup labneh or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt C A R R O T S Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Stir oil, salt, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, turmeric, paprika, pepper, cardamom, cloves, and garlic in a small bowl to combine. Toss carrots with oil mixture on a large rimmed baking sheet to coat. Roast until carrots are crisp-tender and deeply browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool.
While the carrots are cooling, whisk lemon juice, oil, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add red onion, dates, jalapeños, and herbs and toss to coat. Taste salad and add more lemon juice if needed. Stir labneh and remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl. To serve, spread labneh on a platter; top with carrots. Scatter salad over. S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
From top: Alya Haq, owner of Nature’s Anthem farm; date palm leaves have many uses, from basket-weaving to hat-making; Haq also grows Deglet Noor dates, which are typically smaller and less sweet. 71
Date DEETS NOT ALL DATES ARE DRIED! THEY’RE SOFT AND WRINKLY EVEN AT PEAK RIPENESS.
THE WORD DATE COMES FROM DAKTYLOS, GREEK FOR FINGER.
DATES HAVE EXISTED FOR AT LEAST 50 MILLION YEARS.
THERE ARE OVER 400 VARIETIES OF DATES, ALL WITH DIFFERENT FLAVORS, TEXTURES, AND SIZES.
DATES ARE MENTIONED 22 TIMES IN THE QURAN AS WELL AS IN THE BIBLE AND THE TORAH.
From top: Sweet Medjools and sour rhubarb are a perfect pair; dates ready to be packaged; what’s left after harvest will get shredded and returned to the soil; a bare date bunch
D AT E - A N D - S OYBRAISED SHORT RIBS
Date-and-Soy-Braised Short Ribs 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
Inspired by the soy and vinegar notes of Filipino adobo, these short ribs are the pinnacle of comfort. The Medjool dates melt away while the short ribs braise until fall-apart tender, lending depth and just-enough sweetness to this savory dish. We topped the ribs with a spring-y snap pea salad for crunch and freshness, but feel free to switch it up to your preference—smashed cucumbers with cilantro would be just as delicious. 3–4 lb. English-style bone-in beef short ribs, cut into 3" segments Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 1 large onion, thinly sliced 10 garlic cloves, smashed 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste 8 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped 3 dried bay leaves ¾ cup soy sauce
½ cup distilled white vinegar 1 Tbsp. freshly cracked black pepper 1 ½" piece ginger, scrubbed, cut into matchsticks 1½ cups sugar snap peas, thinly sliced on a diagonal ⅓ cup coarsely chopped mint ¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. fresh lime juice Cooked white rice and lime wedges (for serving) Season short ribs liberally with salt. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Working in batches if needed, cook ribs, turning occasionally and reducing heat if needed to prevent scorching, until browned all over, 8–12 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Pour off all but 1 Tbsp. fat from pot. Set pot back over medium-high heat and pour in remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Cook onion and garlic, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring
often, until paste begins to separate and stick to bottom of pot, about 3 minutes. Stir in dates, bay leaves, soy sauce, vinegar, pepper, and 4 cups water. Return short ribs to pot and turn to coat. Bring liquid to a simmer, then reduce heat and cover partially with a lid. Simmer gently, turning ribs occasionally and skimming fat from surface, until meat is very tender, 3½–4½ hours. Transfer short ribs to a platter. If needed, bring braising liquid to a boil and cook until thick enough to coat a spoon. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Remove and discard bay leaves. Toss ginger, sugar snap peas, mint, and red pepper flakes in a medium bowl to combine; season with salt. Drizzle lime juice over salad and toss to coat. Spoon sauce over short ribs; scatter salad over. Serve with rice and lime wedges alongside. D O A H E A D : Short ribs can be braised 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat, covered, over medium-low. 73
Charred Asparagus and Dates With Goat Cheese 4 S E RV I N G S
Dates are packed with natural sugars that caramelize quickly in a hot skillet. They pair especially well with bright spring produce: quick-seared asparagus, fresh mint, and sliced radishes. 2 watermelon radishes or 3 red radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced Zest and juice of 1 lemon ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling 1 bunch asparagus (about 1 lb.), trimmed
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 8 Medjool dates, pitted, halved lengthwise 3 oz. fresh goat cheese 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped mint Toss radishes, lemon zest and juice, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl; set aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Working in batches if needed, cook asparagus in a single layer, undisturbed, until slightly charred underneath, about 2 minutes. Shake pan to turn asparagus and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until
asparagus is crisp-tender and charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle with black pepper and red pepper flakes; season with salt. Transfer asparagus to a platter. Wipe out skillet. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil over medium. Cook dates, stirring occasionally, until charred in spots and beginning to stick to pan, about 3 minutes. Scatter dates over asparagus, then crumble goat cheese over. Top with mint and reserved radishes, then drizzle with oil and any liquid from radish bowl.
Date and Pink Peppercorn Pasta 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
The pink peppercorn mafaldini from Lilia restaurant in Brooklyn inspired this recipe, which celebrates the cosmic radiance of fruity pink peppercorn married with sharp cheese. Chopped dates balance those intense flavors with subtle sweetness. 12 oz. mafaldine or tagliatelle pasta Kosher salt 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbsp. freshly ground pink pepper, divided 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided 4 oz. Pecorino Romano, finely grated, plus more for serving 10 Medjool dates, pitted, finely chopped 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Flaky sea salt
CHARRED A S PA R AG U S AND DATES WITH GOAT CHEESE
74
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving 2 cups pasta cooking liquid. Toast black pepper and 2 Tbsp. pink pepper in a dry large skillet over medium, shaking often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 3 Tbsp. butter; cook, swirling pan, until butter foams, then begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in 4 oz. Pecorino and 1 cup pasta cooking liquid until combined. Add pasta, dates, and ½ cup pasta cooking liquid; cook, tossing often and adding more cooking liquid if needed, until sauce is glossy and coats pasta, about 2 minutes. Add lemon juice and remaining 1 Tbsp. butter; toss to combine. Divide pasta among plates or shallow bowls and top with lemon zest, more Pecorino, and remaining 1 Tbsp. pink pepper. Season with sea salt.
DATE AND PINK P E P P E R C O R N PA S TA
WHIPPED RICOT TA TOAST WITH DATE AND RHUBARB COMPOTE
Whipped Ricotta Toast With Date and Rhubarb Compote 4 S E RV I N G S
Caramelly Medjool dates are ideal for mellowing rhubarb’s astringent tartness, bringing earthy flavor along with sweetness to the mix. Serve this compote over crunchy fried sourdough slathered with whipped ricotta or try it with pancakes, oatmeal, or yogurt to get your rhubarb fix. 5 ⅛ ½ 2 1 3 4
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE
2
Medjool dates, pitted, chopped tsp. ground cardamom tsp. kosher salt, divided medium rhubarb stalks (about 4 oz.), chopped cup whole-milk fresh ricotta Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1"-thick slices country-style sourdough bread Tbsp. coarsely chopped raw pistachios Freshly cracked black pepper
Bring dates, cardamom, ¼ tsp. salt, and 1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan. Cook, stirring often, until dates are very soft, about 5 minutes. Add rhubarb and cook, stirring occasionally, until rhubarb is soft and compote has thickened, 7–10 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, pulse ricotta and remaining ¼ tsp. salt in a food processor to combine. With motor running, stream in 1 Tbsp. oil; process until ricotta is ultrasmooth and airy, about 1 minute. (Or, whisk ricotta, salt, and oil in a medium bowl until smooth and light.) Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Add 2 slices of bread; cook until golden brown and crisp underneath, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plates and turn fried side up. Repeat with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil and remaining bread. Spread ricotta on toasts and top with compote. Scatter pistachios over; season with pepper.
Chewy Date and Dark Chocolate Cookies M A K E S 16
These crispy-edged, chewycentered wonders deliver ultimate cookie texture but with extraordinary savorysweet flavor thanks to olive oil and tahini. Heads-up: The dough needs to chill for at least 3 hours, so plan accordingly. 2¼ cups (281 g) all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. cornstarch
CHEWY DATE AND DARK CHOCOL ATE COOKIES
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 large eggs ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup well-mixed tahini 2 tsp. vanilla extract ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar ¾ cup (150 g) light brown sugar 9 Medjool dates, pitted, 5 chopped, 4 quartered lengthwise 8 oz. bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao), chopped, divided Flaky sea salt Whisk flour, baking soda, cornstarch, and salt in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat eggs, oil, tahini, and vanilla in a large bowl on medium speed until creamy and emulsified, about 2 minutes. Beat in granulated sugar and brown sugar until
combined, about 45 seconds. Reduce speed to low and beat in dry ingredients, chopped dates, and three quarters of chocolate, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, just until combined, about 30 seconds. Cover dough and chill at least 3 hours and up to 12 hours. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°. Using a #10 cookie scoop (about 6 Tbsp.), portion out dough onto 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing 3" apart. Top with remaining chocolate and press gently to adhere. Gently press 1 date quarter into top of each cookie. Sprinkle with sea salt. Working with one baking sheet at a time, bake cookies until golden brown around the edges, 13–15 minutes. Let cookies cool 5 minutes on baking sheets, then transfer to wire racks and let cool completely. 77
T H I S R A S P B E R RY- F I L L E D C H I F F O N C A KE I S I N S P I R E D BY T H E L AY E R E D F RU I T A N D C R E A M C A KE S T H AT F O O D E D I TO R S H I L PA U S KO KOV I C F O U N D I N JA PA N E S E BA KE R I E S — L I G H T, A I RY, A N D D E L I C AT E LY S W E E T
The Travel Issue
BON APPÉTIT
JAPANE SE INSPIRED
BERRY FLUFFY Raspberry Cream Cake 12 S E RV I N G S
Unlike fresh berries, freeze-
PHOTOGR APH BY
Emma Fishman
And since chiffon cake contains oil and no butter, it remains tender even straight out of the fridge. Using ungreased regular (not nonstick) cake pans helps the batter cling to the sides and rise tall as it bakes.
CAKE
4 large eggs, room temperature, separated 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. cream of tartar 1 cup (200 g) sugar, divided ⅓ cup vegetable oil 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 cup (125 g) cake flour ½ tsp. baking powder ASS E M B LY
1 cup (200 g) sugar 1½ cups (37 g) freeze-dried raspberries; plus more crushed for serving (optional) 3 cups heavy cream 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¼ cup (80 g) raspberry jam 2 cups (170 g) fresh raspberries S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
A pastry bag and
a ½"-diameter tip Position a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Line two 8"-diameter cake pans with parchment paper rounds (do not grease). Beat egg whites, salt, cream of tartar, and ½ cup (100 g) sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium-low speed until egg whites are broken up, about
Finely grind sugar and 1½ cups (37 g) freeze-dried raspberries in a spice mill or food processor (if using ASS E M B LY
food processor, sift powder through a fine-mesh sieve after to remove seeds). Transfer to the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment; add cream, vanilla, and salt and beat on medium-high speed until firm peaks form, 5–7 minutes. Stir jam in a small bowl to loosen, then gently fold in fresh raspberries. Place 1 cake on a cake platter or large plate. Scoop a heaping cupful of raspberry cream on top; spread evenly with offset spatula. Spoon berry mixture on top of cream, leaving a 1" border around the edges (this will prevent berries from spilling over the sides). Place second cake layer on top. Spoon a heaping ½ cup raspberry cream into pastry bag fitted with tip. Frost top and sides of cake with raspberry cream still in bowl, then pipe dollops of raspberry cream around edges of top of cake. Chill cake, uncovered, at least 2 hours. To serve, sprinkle top of cake with crushed freeze-dried raspberries if desired. Slice cake with a serrated knife, wiping clean between cuts. D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked 1 day ahead; store tightly wrapped at room temperature, or freeze up to 1 week. If frozen, thaw in refrigerator overnight before using. Cake (without crushed raspberry topping) can be assembled 1 day ahead; cover loosely and chill.
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE.
CAKE
30 seconds. Increase speed to mediumhigh and beat until meringue is glossy and holds firm peaks, 8–10 minutes. Whisk egg yolks and remaining ½ cup (100 g) sugar by hand in a large bowl until pale and well combined, about 2 minutes. Whisk in oil, vanilla, and ⅓ cup room-temperature water. Sift flour and baking powder over and whisk vigorously to combine. Add one fourth of meringue to egg yolk mixture and mix thoroughly to incorporate (this will lighten the batter). Add remaining meringue in 3 batches, gently folding after each addition until only a few streaks of meringue remain (err on the side of mixing slightly less rather than more to keep batter billowy). Divide batter evenly between prepared pans and gently smooth surface. Bake cakes 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325° and continue baking until golden brown and tops spring back when gently pressed, 35–40 minutes more. Remove from oven; invert pans onto a wire rack. Let cakes cool in pans (cooling them upside down reduces shrinkage), 60–70 minutes. Turn cakes over and run an offset spatula around sides of cakes to loosen, then invert cakes onto wire rack. Peel away parchment.
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THE NEW YORKER
RADIO HOUR
S T E P-BYSTEPS
TIPS & TRICKS
Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)
Unless specifically marked decaf, all true tea has caffeine. But herbal teas, like this lemon verbena, come from different plants and are the exception.
Tea for Two Everyone ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN (OPENER)
The world’s most popular flavored beverage comes from a single plant. It’s also thousands of years old, simple to brew (yet complex to sip), and probably languishing in your pantry right now. There’s a lot more to tea than big companies would have you believe—and a lot fewer rules than Downton Abbey suggests by M A X FA L KOW I T Z
P H O T O G R A P H S BY A L L I E H O L L O WAY
A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 81
Basically
1 O K AY, S O W H A T I S T E A ? Whether it’s floral Earl Grey or roasty hojicha, all tea begins with the shrub Camellia sinensis. It’s native to a subtropical stretch of land between present-day India and China that also includes areas of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar. When manipulated by skilled hands, the young leaves of that plant can produce a delicious caffeinated brew. Much of that transformation is due to oxidation, the same reaction responsible for the browning on a sliced apple. There are hundreds, even thousands, of distinct tea styles, but most fall into one of these six categories:
Green If you apply high heat to a tea leaf within a few hours of picking, you’ll halt oxidation, thereby preserving its fresh green flavor and vegetal aroma. Green teas are almost completely unoxidized. They tend to taste, well, green. This is one of the oldest types of tea and, up until a few hundred years ago, the most commonly consumed.
White These teas are all about simplicity. Leaves destined for white tea are simply picked and left to wither, sometimes with an oven or fan but without any elaborate processing. Since they aren’t exposed to high heat, they do oxidize a bit while drying, creating a floral aroma and creamy texture distinct from green teas.
Black Black tea leaves are nearly 100% oxidized, which creates hints of rich fruit and malt and a crisp tannic backbone. Black tea production began in China; it’s now the tea of choice in the Americas, Europe, and parts of Asia and Africa. (FYI, black teas don’t necessarily have more caffeine than greens.)
Though uncommon outside of China, this style includes some of the most expensive and beloved teas, like pu-erh and liu bao. Post-fermented teas undergo oxidation and bacterial and fungal fermentation, creating earthy, gut-soothing brews. They’re often aged for years or even decades.
82 – APRIL 2022
Post-fermented
Oolong
More oxidized than green teas but less oxidized than blacks, oolongs are withered, rolled, squeezed, and roasted to yield complex flavors ranging from butter to hickory. All good tea can be steeped multiple times; oolongs are known for their prismatic character that changes between steeps.
Herbal Brews made from chamomile, mint, rooibos, and roasted grains aren’t technically teas as they’re not made from the leaves of the tea plant. They’re sometimes called tisanes, though if you’d rather call them tea colloquially, no one’s gonna stop you! More on these in No. 8.
3 Get the good stuff Skip the supermarket: The best teas come from dedicated tea sellers who work directly with farmers. There’s never been a better time to buy tea online—here are some retailers to try. Paracit y Glass Teapot, $23; amazon.com
•Camellia Sinensis Its expansive
collection includes great sample sets for the tea curious. •Kettl If you love green tea, matcha,
and gorgeous ceramics, this Japanese tea specialist is for you. •Eco-Cha Based in central Taiwan,
it focuses on the country’s famous— and hugely varied—oolongs. •In Pursuit of Tea Its extensive
selection of classic teas come from China, Japan, and the Himalayas. •White2Tea It specializes in post-
fermented pu-erh from Yunnan, China, as well as intriguing white and black teas. •Happy Earth Tea Company
Its long list is headlined by singleestate teas from Darjeeling.
2 UPGRADE FROM TEA BAGS For economy and consistency, tea bags are generally filled with chopped leaves and powdery particles that steep quickly for a bold but one-dimensional product. So if you’re looking to explore the incredible world of traditional teas, upgrade to loose leaf. While highquality tea is available at every price point, you won’t often see it cramped into bags—those whole leaves need room to grow. See No. 5 for the simplest—and most versatile—brewing equipment.
4 Cool it down Quality leaves make for iced tea so sweet and refreshing you won’t even need sugar. If you have only five minutes, make near-instant iced tea: Brew double-concentrated tea, then pour it over an equal amount of ice (in weight or volume). But if you have a little longer, try this ambient-brew method from Postcard Teas in London. Steep your tea leaves in roomtemperature water for an hour on the counter, then strain and refrigerate until the brew is as cold as you’d like it. This method extracts more dynamic flavor than cold-brewing that’s started in the fridge—and it’s faster too. APRIL 2022 – 83
Basically
TEA
, MEET CHEES
E
Popularized in China and Taiwan, cheese tea contrasts refreshing iced tea with a creamy foam top. To make that cloudlike layer at home, whip Philadelphia cream cheese with milk or heavy cream and salt until billowy. Sponsored
5 When it comes to equipment, it’s better to build a collection based on what you actually need than to buy a prefab set with matching cups or filters that you may eventually set aside. Start with these two essentials:
An electric kettle
A simple pot
Fellow and Bonavita both make great kettles with gooseneck spouts for precise pours. They can also heat water to specific temps for various tea types and keep it hot for resteeping. Stagg EKG Electric Kettle, $159; fellowproducts.com
The most versatile vessels have filters built into the spouts so that the leaves can unfurl without constraints. A Japanese-style kyusu combines form and function—these beautiful pots can brew nearly any tea. Gyoko Kyusu #3, $120; kettl.co
6
7
8
9
There’s something in the water
Steep, steep, and steep again
Fresh herb
Tea or cha?
Since tea is mostly water, the quality of that water will affect the taste of your tea. As a rule of thumb, if you wouldn’t drink your local tap water on its own, filter it before steeping. Temperature matters too, but since most high-quality teas can handle a big range, steep according to your tastes. In general, brewing with lower temperatures like 170° will yield sweeter and more delicate tasting notes, while water closer to boiling will brew bolder, with a richer texture and more astringency.
Quality whole-leaf teas are made to be resteeped. Some last two or three brews; others, including many oolongs and fermented pu-erhs, can run for a dozen. To do it:
Herbal teas take many forms beyond the common mint and chamomile. Try linden, chrysanthemum, and elderflower for a naturally honeyed and floral cup. Greek mountain tea and lemon balm are great for brisk refreshment. If you can handle some caffeine, yaupon and guayusa (two members of the holly family native to the Americas) yield a snappy tea-like brew. And if you’re a die-hard coffee person, roasted grain teas like barley, buckwheat, Job’s tears, and corn silk from Korea and Japan make for toasty brews.
The word for tea typically comes from one of two roots—té or cha (e.g., thé in French, chai in Hindi)—and this linguistic pattern is key to learning how it first arrived in a region. As Nikhil Sonnad reported for Quartz, countries that traded tea over land use cha (the word for tea in Mandarin, it spread across the Silk Road), while countries that traded by boat use té (the local word for tea in coastal Fujian and Taiwan). That explains why most Western European and African languages use té, while those of Asia and East Africa tend to use cha.
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•Shake out every last drop of liquid from your previous pot to keep the next round from turning bitter. •Refill your pot with water heated to your choice of brewing temperature. •Add 30–60 seconds to your previous steep time and repeat.
FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS
KEEP THE GEAR SIMPLE
INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET
Design advice for real life.
Renovation guides. Before-and-after inspiration. Material sources. Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest. @getclever
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recipe index
APPETIZERS
Bagna Cauda With Spring Vegetables p. 61 Citrus-Marinated Olives p. 43 Eggs Rémoulade p.43 BEVERAGE
Chambéry Cassis p. 43 BREAKFAST
Herby Dutch Baby With Smoked Salmon p. 14 Kuku Kadoo p. 53
Whipped Ricotta Toast With Date and Rhubarb Compote p. 77 SALAD
Fried Lemon and Radish Salad p. 44 MAIN COURSES SEAFOOD
Clams With Crispy Ham and Butter Beans p. 53 Herby Dutch Baby With Smoked Salmon p. 14
MEAT
Big Shells With Spicy Lamb Sausage and Pistachios p. 53 Date-and-SoyBraised Short Ribs p. 73 Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb p. 47 Skirt Steak With Scallion Thecha p. 18 PASTA AND NOODLES
Big Shells With Spicy Lamb Sausage and Pistachios p. 53 Date and Pink Peppercorn Pasta p. 74
Gochujang-Sesame Noodles p. 20 Porcini Gnocchi With Butter Sauce p. 61 POULTRY
Crispy Chicken With Za’atar-Olive Rice p. 12 Shawarma Roast Chicken With Shallots and Lemons p. 57 VEGE TARIAN
Date and Pink Peppercorn Pasta p. 74 Gochujang-Sesame Noodles p. 20
Kuku Kadoo p. 53 Porcini Gnocchi With Butter Sauce p. 61 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES
Asparagus With Parmesan Fonduta p. 66 Buttered Potatoes With Salted Lemon p. 51 Charred Asparagus and Dates With Goat Cheese p. 74 Fried Lemon and Radish Salad p. 44 New Potatoes With Mimolette p. 44
Smoky and Crunchy Peas With Creamy Nuoc Cham p. 54 Spice-Crusted Carrots With Date and Herb Salad p. 71 DESSERTS
Cherry and Dark Chocolate Crostata p. 66 Chewy Date and Dark Chocolate Cookies p. 77 Raspberry Cream Cake p. 78
bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2022 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 67, no. 3. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Jackie Marks, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email BNAcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@ condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.
86 – APRIL 2022
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE.
What makes chocolate chip cookies even better? Dates! P. 77
Photograph / Jennifer Chase
P O D C A S T
P O D C A S T N E W E P I S O D E S A D D E D W E E K LY LISTEN ON SPOTIF Y / APPLE PODCASTS
Margaret Atwood’s Dream Dinner Party The author of The Handmaid’s Tale and a new book of essays, Burning Questions, sets a dramatic table, replete with family china, a crystal ball, and a main course that may require a hammer
Margaret Atwood knows there’s no dinner part y secret weapon like a Le Creuset Round Dutch Oven (starting at $250; lecreuset.com).
S H E ’S B R O A D LY known for her critically acclaimed novels (17 of them!), including The Handmaid’s Tale and Alias Grace, but Margaret Atwood is also a poet, essayist, cartoonist, environmental activist, and inventor (of the LongPen, a robotic arm that paved the way for remote document signing). Here she tells whom she’d invite to her dream dinner party and why. — D AW N D AV I S
You get to host any three people, fictional or real, dead or alive. Who’s invited?
I’ll stick to dead people. If I fail to invite some living people, they’d be very annoyed. (Not to say other dead people wouldn’t be. I’d expect to hear from Samuel Johnson and Oscar Wilde, who prided themselves on their dinner conversation.) But here’s my invite list: Graeme Gibson, my partner for many years; he loved a dinner party. He 88 – APRIL 2022
always cooked the main course and I did the starters, salad, and dessert. Charlotte Brontë and Toni Morrison would be my other guests. Both of them wrote novels with uncanny, weird stuff in them. Jane Eyre hears a spirit voice calling her over time and space and she answers it. I reviewed Beloved in The New York Times and have always been interested in Morrison’s technically varied way of approaching subjects. So pairing her with Brontë, who gave us the first open-ended novel, would be fascinating, especially since one of them is from the 19th century and the other is from the 20th. What’s on the menu?
We’d begin with a salad that involves oranges, avocados, and endive. Then Graeme would make this chicken dish that involves putting a lot of legs and thighs, a huge amount of garlic, an onion, a bouquet garni, and some cloves into a
big Le Creuset. You make a dough out of flour, water, salt, and oil, roll it out like a sausage, and wrap it around the pot’s rim. As it bakes, it forms a seal and the chicken steams in all that garlic. Do you bring it to the table in a dramatic fashion?
The dough gets quite hard. It’s a ceremonial moment when you crack it with a hammer. We’d serve it with potatoes and green beans. For dessert I’d make the fluffy baked lemon custard from The Joy of Cooking. I’d set out white china with red trim (which belonged to Graeme’s grandfather), candles, and either some florals or a crystal ball—which, yes, I have in my possession. The conversation centers around one essay in your new book, Burning Questions— which is it?
These days it would probably be one of the environmental
essays. Maybe the one on Rachel Carson and how prescient she is. When it comes to talking about the environment, I’m interested in solutions. If you want some hope, go to drawdown.org, which has a lot of data and ideas about how to draw down greenhouse gases from the atmosphere. Who’s the better dining companion, a scientist or a poet?
I know quite a lot about poets, so for a learning experience, I’d pick scientists—but it depends what kind. Not physicists. They can’t really explain to other people what they’re doing. I could hang out with ornithologists. They’re somewhat generalists because they have to know something about habitat, bird biology, migration patterns. And they need to go off the beaten track to find birds, so they’re often quite adventurous.
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