BA - November 2020 by Lawrence Ambrocio

Grilled Vinegar Turkey With Chiles and Rosemar y p . 75

Plus! P U L L - A PA RT SOUR CREAM & C H I V E R O L LS P. 74

SW E E T P OTATO CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE FROSTING P. 79

A N D 36 M O R E WAYS TO C E L E B R AT E , WHEREVER YO U A R E

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as a casual café counterpart with morning espresso drinks and smoothies, as well as shawarma and falafel for an afternoon meal. On the fifth floor, La Piscina rooftop bar serves up coastal Mexican fare poolside with zesty ceviches, grilled seafood, and housemade tortillas charred on an open comal. The cocktails shine bright, too, with frozen margaritas, Mexican beers, and small-batch tequilas. And if you’ve booked a room for the night, head to Goldie's sunken bar for a seductive guests-only hideaway surrounded by floral wallpaper, handblown glass lighting, and rose-tinted marble cocktail tables. Simply said, a nightcap here is as good as gold.

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November VOLUME 65 NUMBER 9

JUST GRILL IT.

The

Issue

Chefs, cookbook authors, and the BA Test Kitchen editors share how they’re celebrating in this most unusual year P. 4 0 O N T H E C O V E R : Grilled Vinegar Turkey With Chiles and Rosemary (for recipe, see p. 75). Photograph by Kelly Marshall.

Food Styling by Susie Theodorou. Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KELLY MARSHALL. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

P. 75

Whoever said “easy as pie” never made cheesecake.

It’s a Piece of (Cheese)cake

Visit creamcheese.com for simple cheesecake recipes.

November

A SWEET P OTATO CAKE TO MAKE THE PIES JEALOUS

H O M E & A WAY 11 The Buy The glass we like almost as much as the martini inside it. BY EMILY SCHULTZ

12 What’s Chaey Cooking? Cozy up next to the donabe. BY CHRISTINA CHAEY

16 Family Meal Chile-lime tofu and more light weeknight recipes, you know, for balance.

4 – NOVEMBER 2020

B AS I C A L LY 26 The Pour Orange wine is the Thanksgiving wine this year, and not just because it matches the decor. BY MIGUEL DE LEON

28 Sweet Spot It’s more fun when you cook with edible silver. BY PRIYA KRISHNA

30 Talk You Through It Start your holiday meal (or your Netflix binge) with Sohla El-Waylly’s onion dip. 32 Dish Decoded Stop everything and order the mohinga at Rangoon, a Burmese restaurant in Brooklyn. BY HILARY CADIGAN

34 Shop Tour Stock up on ethically made (and supercute) housewares from Atlanta’s SustainAble Home Goods. INTERVIEW BY TRAVIS LEVIUS

36 The Read Novelist Jasmine Guillory on grief and cornbread dressing.

81 On Edge If you’re not the sharpest knife in the block, you will be after reading this. BY SARAH JAMPEL

ETIQUET TE 88 Is It Ever Okay… Can you decline the family Zoom? Thanksgiving-inlockdown advice from Alex Beggs. IN EVERY ISSUE 8 editor’s letter 86 recipe index 86 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

P. 79

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Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND Director of Editorial Operations CRISTINA MARTINEZ Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO

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6 – NOVEMBER 2020

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Editor ’s Letter

An Unfamiliar Ritual M Y F A M I L Y H A S O U R T H A N K S G I V I N G system down to a T. Or, I should say, down to the manila folder in which we keep a decade’s worth of menus marked up with quantities and guest lists, keeping tabs on the first dish to go (mac and cheese) and the biggest hits (Dad’s chicken-and-waffles appetizer, Mom’s perfect squash soup). Every year I perform a sleight of hand, making sure we end up with an extra tray of cornbread dressing (p. 73), my favorite, that I can eat for days afterward, sometimes straight from the fridge like a teenager, until it’s gone. My brother mixes cocktails, his girlfriend roasts the turkey, and a family friend always brings the most beautiful carved glass platter decorated artfully with half-moons of winter fruit. 8 – NOVEMBER 2020

Inevitably someone turns on a football game and someone else puts on a kettle for chai, and my grandmother promises that next year she’ll make pumpkin halwa, a pudding-like treat I love, one that would look right at home next to both silver-leaf kaju katli (p. 28) and a tall sweet potato cake (p. 79). We never make pies because we know someone will bring an extra, and I think that about sums up what the holiday has always meant to me: good food. The love and support of our community. And familiarity too. You know the drill from here: This year will be different. Like so many of you, I don’t know where I’ll be, or whom I’ll be with, or what I’ll be eating. (Or who our next president will be—if you’re reading this before November 3, vote!) I’ve found comfort in reading through this issue’s very 2020, new-to-everyone Thanksgiving menu plans (hello, tater tot casserole on p. 74), learning new-to-me techniques from the recipes (hello, tiny pies on p. 78!), and remembering that I’m not alone, that I am not the only one trying my best to figure things out. I don’t know how you plan to celebrate this month, if at all. But I hope you have plenty of good food and good people around you, two things we know can always help us through.

S ON I A C HO P R A executive edi tor @soniachopra

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

Who knows, maybe I’ll even make pies this year.

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Find BelGioioso in the Deli specialty cheese case. belgioioso.com/product-locator

rBST Free | Gluten Free | Award-Winning | Vegetarian

IT’S WHAT’S INSIDE THAT COUNTS Give from the heart this holiday season. Choose from a selection of gourmet gifts at HarryandDavid.com/ba

P LU S !

Awa y

THE ALMOSTPERFECT POT p . 12

R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a nd Tes t K i t c he n K n ow - H ow

e on lyn tak ish , A Brook tional d a n s r’ a , M ya n m Atlanta in g in shopp re! o m d n a

Time for a Toast

ILLUSTRATION BY MIRIAM ROSS

Decorative gourds aren’t necessary when mint green coupes from Estelle Colored Glass ($195 for six; estellecoloredglass .com) are on the table. Stephanie Summerson Hall’s Technicolor line of handblown glassware turns any evening into an Event. Sipping a martini never felt so festive. —E M I L Y S C H U L T Z

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY

N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0 – 11

H o m e & A w a y – W ha t ’s C h a e y C o o k i n g ?

Nagatani-en Hakeme Classic-Style All-Purpose Donabe, $80; toirokitchen.com

One Pot, Endless Options A Japanese donabe makes it simple to whip up beautiful, nourishing, riffable meals b y C HR I S T I N A C H A E Y

12 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0

F R O M L AT E O C T O B E R to early April, one piece of cookware takes up permanent residence on my stovetop, quietly burbling up hot pots and soups on cold nights. People message me on Instagram whenever I post photos of my donabe: What is it? (A Japanese earthenware pot used for cooking and serving.) Where did I get it? (Toiro Kitchen in L.A.) What do I make in it? (Everything!) At a basic level, a donabe is a pot that just happens to be pretty enough to double as a striking serving piece. High-quality versions have thick walls that effectively retain heat and are especially good for gently cooking the vegetable-heavy meals I want constantly this time of year. P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

can’t cook. no problem.

H o m e & A w a y – W h a t ’s C h a e y C o o k i n g ?

Fridge Clean-Out Nabe With Mushroom Dashi 1– 2 S E RV I N G S Chaey always keeps a big jar of dried shiitake mushrooms in her pantry for adding to vegetable stocks and making dashi like the vegan version here. You can also reconstitute them by soaking in hot water until soft and pliable. Add to soups, stir-fries, and stews and save the soaking liquid to add to a future batch of dashi. M U S H R O O M DAS H I

4 dried shiitake mushrooms 1 4x3" piece dried kombu N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY

When I’m short on time, I opt for a quick nabe, or hot pot, which starts with a light broth that I season with good soy sauce and mirin. My broth of choice is often dashi, an essential Japanese stock of dried bonito flakes, kombu, and water that gives dishes like miso soup their subtle briny flavor. When I need dinner to be even more hands-off, I’ll make a vegan mushroom dashi by placing dried shiitakes and a strip of kombu in a big jar of water and refrigerating it all overnight. The resulting golden broth is savory and lightly earthy. It lacks the body of a lipsmacking chicken stock, which is exactly why I like it: A bowlful leaves me feeling satisfied but not weighed down. When warmed in the donabe, the dashi creates a small hot tub environment for whatever kitchen-sink assortment of vegetables and protein I’m cooking. Some days I may have peeled, seeded, and sliced kabocha or butternut squash already prepped and ready to drop into the simmering broth. While the thick squash starts cooking away, I’ll quickly tear greens and mushrooms, slice tofu, and boil a little pot of noodles like soba to slip in right before I’m ready to eat. In those few minutes I enter an almost flow-like state, moving seamlessly from cutting board to stove; dinner is ready in minutes. Though this recipe is a nabe I make often, it’s meant to be a guideline, not scripture. That’s the beauty of this style of cooking: Each rendition is slightly different from the one before. But no matter how much you mix it up, you’re guaranteed a meal that’s vibrant and delicious, nourishing yet light, and that leaves you feeling good inside. If there’s one thing I want you to take away from this, it’s that you can absolutely riff without a recipe. And that you should have a donabe of your own, of course. 14 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0

M U S H R O O M DAS H I Combine mushrooms, kombu, and 2½ cups cold water in a 1-qt. jar or small bowl. Cover and chill until dashi takes on a light golden hue, at least 8 hours and up to 12 hours. Strain dashi into a clean jar or bowl. Squeeze mushrooms to release excess liquid into jar, then thinly slice around the stem; discard woody stems and set mushrooms aside. Discard kombu. D O A H E A D : Dashi can be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill. Cover and chill rehydrated mushrooms separately. N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY Cook noodles in a medium saucepan of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain in a colander, shaking off excess water, and set aside. Pour dashi into a 1.5–2-qt. donabe or small saucepan and stir in mirin and soy sauce; season with salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add squash and turnips, cover, and cook until crisp-tender, 5–7 minutes. Uncover; add greens, tofu, white and pale green parts of scallions, and reserved mushrooms. Cook until greens are wilted and tofu is warmed through, about 2 minutes. Add reserved noodles to donabe and top with scallion greens. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with shichimi togarashi.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

A little prep work makes the cooking go quickly.

2 oz. dried udon or soba noodles Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine) 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 2-oz. piece butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeds removed, sliced ½" thick 2 small hakurei or baby turnips, trimmed, cut into quarters A big handful of greens (such as baby bok choy, kale, or Swiss chard), thinly sliced 4 oz. firm or extra-firm tofu, patted dry, cut into ½"-thick pieces 1 scallion, white and pale green parts thinly sliced into 2"-long pieces, dark green parts thinly sliced on a diagonal Toasted sesame oil and shichimi togarashi (for serving)

H o m e & Aw a y

Family Meal What we need right now : Dinners that are as beautiful as they are flavorful and as fast as they are healthyish

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN

TOASTED RICE

powder gives Laotian larb its distinct pebbled texture and nutty flavor. Making it is easy: Slowly toast uncooked glutinous rice in a pan until it’s golden and deliciously fragrant, then pulse in a spice mill until it’s the consistency of coarsely cracked black pepper. Use it in cookbook author Lara Lee’s tofu larb recipe on p. 20 (and don’t skip her shiitakeand-soba stir-fry on p. 25). Make extra rice powder and keep the leftovers in a jar to add texture to noodles and salads…or another batch of that larb.

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Home & Away – Family Meal

Beet Fritters With Beet Greens Yogurt So you love beets but don’t love waiting hours for them to roast. Shred ’em along with some potato to make these crispy dinner fritters R E C I P E BY S A R A H JA M P E L

M A K E S 10 –12

4 medium beets with greens (about 1 lb.) 1 large or 2 medium Yukon Gold or russet potatoes (about 10 oz.) 1 medium onion 1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more 4 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1. Preheat oven to 300°. Line a sieve with 2 layers of paper towels; set over a large bowl. Remove stems and greens from beets; set aside. Scrub beets and potato, then grate on the large holes of a box grater into prepared sieve, followed by onion. Season with salt and toss well. Let vegetables sit at least 25 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, finely chop reserved beet stems and greens. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add greens, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and starting to stick to pan, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Wipe out pan; reserve. 3. Working with a large handful at a time, squeeze grated vegetables to expel as much liquid as possible, transferring vegetables to a medium bowl as you go; discard liquid. Mix in eggs, panko, cornstarch, coriander, cumin, and 1½ tsp. salt. 4. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium-high. Working in batches and adding more oil between batches if needed, scoop three ¼-cupfuls of vegetable mixture into pan and flatten into thin pancakes. Cook until browned, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in oven until ready to serve. 5. Meanwhile, squeeze juice from a lemon half into beet greens. Add yogurt and dill and mix well; season with salt and pepper. Slice remaining lemon half into wedges. 6. Serve fritters with beet greens yogurt and lemon wedges. 18 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0

If your beets didn’t come with their greens still attached, use any hardy green like kale or Swiss chard in the yogurt sauce instead.

2 6 ¼ 2 2 1 ½ ½

large eggs, beaten to blend Tbsp. panko cup cornstarch tsp. coriander seeds, crushed tsp. cumin seeds, crushed lemon, halved cup plain whole-milk yogurt cup coarsely chopped dill Freshly ground black pepper

Home & Away – Family Meal

Smoked Tofu Larb With Lemongrass This meat-free version of the Laotian and Thai dish combines smoked tofu with pops of crunchy sesame seeds and a kick of lime dressing R E C I P E BY L A R A L E E

1. Mix lime juice, soy sauce, palm sugar, chile powder, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl to combine; set dressing aside. 2. Toast rice in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and nutty-smelling, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a spice mill and let cool, then coarsely grind. Set rice powder aside. Wipe out pan. 3. Heat oil in same pan over medium. Cook shallots and lemongrass, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Scrape into bowl with reserved dressing. 4. Add tofu, 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds, and reserved rice powder to bowl and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and add more chile powder and lime juice if needed. 5. Stir herbs into larb and serve with lettuce leaves and more sesame seeds for assembling.

20 – NOVEMBER 2020

4 S E RV I N G S

⅓ ¼ 1 2 1 ¼ 2 6

cup (or more) fresh lime juice cup light soy sauce Tbsp. palm or light brown sugar tsp. (or more) chile powder tsp. kosher salt, plus more cup glutinous rice Tbsp. vegetable oil small shallots, thinly sliced

Find more great recipes from Lee in her cookbook, Coconut & Sambal ($35; Bloomsbury).

3–4 lemongrass stalks, bottom third only, tough outer layers removed, finely chopped 1½ lb. smoked or firm tofu, drained, cut into ¼" cubes 2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds, plus more 1¼ cups chopped mixed tender herbs (such as Thai basil and/or mint) Tender lettuce leaves (for serving)

YOUR VOICE COUNTS Scan to register to vote, or head to vote.gov Please vote on November 3!

Home & Away – Family Meal

Tomato Chicken Coconut Curry We keep canned tomatoes and coconut milk around so we can throw this together when we want to keep dinner fuss-free R E C I P E BY A N DY B A R AG H A N I

1. Heat ghee in a large saucepan over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden brown around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add ginger and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes; season with salt. Add garam masala and chile powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in honey and cook until slightly darkened in color, about 1 minute.

4 S E RV I N G S

3 Tbsp. ghee, virgin coconut oil, or vegetable oil 1 large red onion, finely chopped 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Kosher salt 4 tsp. garam masala

1 tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. honey 1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes 1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk 3 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 1½ lb. total), sliced 1" thick ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro

Got leftovers? Reheat them in a skillet over medium-low with a splash of water until hot for a quick next-day lunch.

3. Stir yogurt, a big pinch of salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Drizzle seasoned yogurt over curry and top with cilantro. D O A H E A D : Curry (without yogurt and cilantro) can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

22 – NOVEMBER 2020

FOOD STYLING BY D’MYTREK BROWN

2. Add tomatoes along with juice to pan and bring to a boil, smashing tomatoes with a wooden spoon until pieces are no bigger than 1". Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring often and scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan, until sauce thickens slightly, 8–10 minutes. Add coconut milk; cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors come together, 20–25 minutes; season with salt. Add chicken and reduce heat to low. Partially cover pan and cook until chicken is cooked through, 8–10 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Home & Away – Family Meal

Coconut, Ginger, and Mushroom Noodles Quick-pickling some of the mushrooms gives this dish acidity and brightness while caramelizing the rest adds earthy notes R E C I P E BY L A R A L E E

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Heat sugar, ½ cup vinegar, 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, and ⅓ cup water in a small saucepan over low, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add a quarter of mushrooms and half of ginger. Return to a simmer and cook 4 minutes. Let pickles cool.

4 S E RV I N G S

2 Tbsp. granulated sugar ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. black (Chinkiang) vinegar or unseasoned rice vinegar 6 Tbsp. light soy sauce, divided 12 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, thinly sliced, divided 1 5" piece ginger, peeled, cut into matchsticks, divided

½ ½ 8 2 6 12 8

cup raw cashews cup unsweetened shredded coconut oz. dried soba noodles Tbsp. kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided canned baby corn, halved crosswise oz. green beans, trimmed, cut into thirds 6 small shallots, thinly sliced

No kecap manis? Substitute 2 Tbsp. dark soy sauce mixed with 2 Tbsp. palm sugar or brown sugar.

2. Spread out cashews on one side of a baking sheet and coconut on the other. Toast, undisturbed, until most of coconut is golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Remove from oven; transfer coconut to a plate. Toss nuts; continue to toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to plate; let cool. 3. Meanwhile, cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Set aside.

IN THIS STORY: CERAMICS BY MEILEN, MEILENCERAMICS.COM

4. Whisk kecap manis, 2 Tbsp. oil, remaining 2 Tbsp. vinegar, and remaining 4 Tbsp. soy sauce in a small bowl; set sauce aside. 5. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large pot. Cook remaining mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate; wipe out pot. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in pot; cook corn and beans, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to plate. Reduce heat to medium; heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in pot. Cook shallots and remaining ginger, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Toss in mushrooms, corn, and beans. Remove from heat. Add reserved noodles, then cashews, coconut, and reserved sauce and toss well. 6. Divide noodles among bowls and top with drained pickles. NOVEMBER 2020 – 25

H o m e & A w a y – Th e P o u r

Manolis Garalis “ Terra Ambera” $22

Seeing Orange Finding the ideal Thanksgiving wine isn’t easy, but these bottles are up for the challenge by MIGUEL DE LEON

26 – NOVEMBER 2020

A S T H E S O M M E L I E R at Pinch Chinese in New York City, I get a lot of questions from friends and family about which wines to pair with Chinese food. But this time of year I field one specific crisis call: What should I drink on Thanksgiving?! Even among somms, Thanksgiving dinner is a notoriously difficult meal to pair because of all the sides. How do you find a wine that plays well with a green bean casserole, three types of stuffing (it’s a competition in my family), and creamy mashed potatoes? In the past I’ve leaned on tried-and-trues like Prosecco and Lambrusco, but this year I’m

Domaine Glinavos “Paleokerisio” $15

tying the meal together with a few bottles of orange. Also known as skin-contact wines, they’re made by fermenting white grapes with the skins on, like you’d normally do for a red wine. I recommend starting with a light-maceration option that’s spent only a few days fermenting with the skins—like steeping a bag of tea for an extra few minutes to extract more flavor and aroma. The result tastes like white wine with the volume turned up, but not as intense and barnyardy as some other orange varietals. And because of their floral aromatics, heightened acidity, and fruity

flavor, these wines work well with just about anything on your table. So this Thanksgiving I’m pouring slightly chilled glasses of Domaine Glinavos’s Paleokerisio, with half the bubbles but twice the flavor of Prosecco; Oenops’s Rawditis, full of grilled lemon and apricot notes (perfect for Chardonnayloving relatives); and Manolis Garalis’s Terra Ambera, which tastes like orange blossom and jasmine, a reminder of The Summer That Could Have Been. It’s a new tradition, like muting my uncle on Zoom, wishing I was in Santorini, and telling myself that there’s always next year.

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Oenops “Rawditis” $30

Optional (but Awesome) Silver leaf, or varak, is usually available as thinly pressed sheets and can be purchased online ($10 for 10 sheets; amazon.com). Just make sure it’s specifically labeled as edible.

Silver Platter This five-ingredient sweet is Priya Krishna’s all-time favorite, and it’s as good for a Wednesday-afternoon snack (keep some in your freezer!) as it is for a Diwali celebration

Priya made kaju katli, also called kaju ki barfi, this spring, after finding silver leaf her mother brought to the U.S. from India in the ’80s. Then she read countless blogs in an attempt to perfect the recipe. The one she found most helpful was Cook With Manali; this version is inspired by Manali Singh’s recipe. M AK ES 12–15

1 cup raw cashews ½ cup sugar ¼ tsp. freshly ground cardamom 2 tsp. ghee Varak (edible silver leaf; optional) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A candy

thermometer Place 2 large pieces of parchment (at least 12" long) on a work surface. Pulse cashews in a food processor or coffee grinder to a fine powder. Set a mesh sieve over a medium bowl and sift cashew powder into bowl. Return any larger pieces still in sieve to processor and pulse again to break up further (but be careful not to turn into nut butter). Sift into bowl; set cashew powder aside.

Heat sugar and ¼ cup water in a medium saucepan over medium, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved; stir in cardamom. Clip thermometer to side of pan and bring mixture to a boil (still over medium). Cook, stirring often, until thermometer registers 230°–235° (mixture should be syrupy but not thick), about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Stir in ghee and reserved cashew powder. Cook, stirring constantly, until dough begins to pull away from sides of pan and form a mass in the center, about 3 minutes. Be careful, as the sugar will make the dough very, very hot. (You can check if the dough is ready by carefully scooping out a small spoonful and letting it cool until safe to touch. If you can roll it into a ball and it holds its shape, it’s ready.) Transfer dough to 1 sheet of parchment. Let cool until safe to handle (dough will stay hot in the center, so be very careful). Knead warm dough

1 minute, then top with the remaining sheet of parchment. Roll out to create an oval about ½" thick. Peel away top layer of parchment and carefully apply silver leaf (if using) to surface. Using a paring knife and a ruler, cut dough into 1"-wide strips. Then make diagonal cuts at 1" intervals across the strips to create diamond shapes. Separate out individual kaju katli. (Save scraps for snacking on later.) D O A H E A D : Kaju katli can be made 1 month ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Kaju Katli

P H OTO G R A P HS BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Home & Away – Sweet Spot

Choose Your Nut Try swapping the cashews (that’s kaju in Hindi and Urdu) in this recipe for pistachios or almonds.

NOVEMBER 2020 – 29

H o m e & A w a y – Ta l k Yo u Th r o u g h I t

111 Words on… Fill your tiniest skillet with a mix of small skin-on shallots, garlic cloves, alliums such as and cipolline onions and enough extra-virgin olive oil to submerge them. Cover with foil and roast at 325° until fork-tender, about an hour. Uncover and roast another hour. Let cool, then tip out most of the oil. Smoosh allium flesh into a bowl (toss the skins) and mash with a fork. Stir in a big sour cream and a handful each spoonful of grated parm and Muenster. Season with of kosher salt and black pepper , then return to skillet and broil until bubbly. Serve with crudités and or hardy crackers. — S O H L A E L - WAY L LY toasted baguette 30 – NOVEMBER 2020

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. ILLUSTRATIONS BY SUPER FREAK.

A Bubbly, Cheesy, Oniony Dip

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Home & Away – Dish Decoded

Breakfast for Dinner At Brooklyn’s Rangoon, chef-owner Myo Moe introduces diners to the flavors of her Burmese childhood, starting with one iconic comfort dish: a hot and luscious bowl of mohinga b y H I L A RY C A D I GA N

The Shallot Fritter

The Broth

The Lotus Root

The Noodles

The Toppings

“Back home,” says Moe, “mohinga was breakfast, but at Rangoon the restaurant, it’s dinner.” She makes four gallons of broth daily, boiling catfish with turmeric, onion, ginger, lemongrass, and rice flour. Then she removes the fish, smashes it into a paste, sautés it till toast y, and adds it back for maximal fishy flavor.

Traditionally this soup gets its crunch factor from slices of banana stem, the fibrous flower stalks of a banana plant. But finding them in New York isn’t easy, so Moe instead uses lotus root, boiled and sliced thin. “It soaks up the flavor and color of the soup, brings a little added sweetness—and it’s prett y!”

Though she prefers making rice noodles from scratch, Moe buys the dried kind from Vietnamese brand Bamboo Tree to save time. “In Burma we like them soft and a little sticky,” she says. To achieve this texture, she cooks the noodles separately and tops them with a ladleful of soup just before serving.

At any mohinga stall, you’ll find the classic toppings trio: lime wedges, fish sauce, and toasted chile flakes. The key is adjusting the ratios to your exact liking. “ We call these components chin ngan satt—which means ‘sour, salt y, spicy,’” Moe says. “ This combination is the key to Burmese flavor. We love it!”

32 – NOVEMBER 2020

P H O T O G R A P H BY J E S S I C A P E T T WAY

FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

“At the mohinga stalls in Burma [also known as Myanmar], there are many fritters to choose from,” Moe says. Her favorite is chickpeaflour-battered shallots, which she supersizes for dramatic effect.

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H o m e & A w a y – S h o p To u r

Worldly Possessions At SustainAble Home Goods in Atlanta, owner LaToya Tucciarone prioritizes fair trade, planet-friendly pieces from BIPOC artisans around the globe. Here are a few of her favorite finds i n t er v iew by T R AV I S L E V I U S

Find LaToya ’s picks and so much more at yoursustainablehome.com

“Who doesn’t want to start every morning with the Obamas? A pair of women in Vermont make and paint each of these delicate mugs by hand. Barack is on the other side.”

Olive Wood Salad Servers “A group of Kenyan artisans hand-carves these beautiful wood and cow bone utensils. They’re very sturdy, and I love that the grain in each set is a little different.” $40

“Evan Blackwell is a Black painter here in Atlanta. She made this piece when the George Floyd protests began to spread globally, inspired by people coming together for one purpose.” COMING TOGETHER PA I N T I N G $ 4 5 0 34 – NOVEMBER 2020

Micaela Bean Bowl “I met this badass artist, Macrina Mateo Martínez, in Oaxaca. She shapes terra-cotta by hand, then smooths it with stone and leather: Zapotec heritage meets modern design.” $189

Roly Poly Decanter “A supercool co-op of glassblowers called Copavic in Cantel, Guatemala, made this from recycled glass. It has a teak topper and a midcentury feel that works on any bar.” $30 P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

BARACK & MICHELLE MUG $50

good food. good health. good vibes.

behealthyish.com

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Home & Away – The Read

Dressing for Success My mom and I could never get Grandma’s famous Thanksgiving side dish quite right—until the year she was gone b y J A S M I N E G U I L LO RY

MY G R A N D M O T H E R was born during the Depression. The middle child of three sisters, she moved from Louisiana to California when she was three years old, and to her, the only important things about a meal were to make plenty of food and put plenty of heat in it. The rest didn’t matter much. Her daughter (my mom) was always a very obedient child, but one of her small, silent rebellions was against this way of cooking: She started reading food magazines—including this one—as soon as she found out they existed, fell in love with then unfamiliar ingredients and spices, and passed down to her 36 – NOVEMBER 2020

daughter (me) a love of food, cooking, and experimentation. And while I grew up enjoying Grandma’s gumbo and jambalaya just fine, the first time my mom and I made gumbo together, I couldn’t get over how delicious it was. We later realized that ours tasted so much better in part because Grandma always added about four times the required amount of liquid to the roux—and used water instead of stock. But there was one recipe of my grandmother’s that I prized above all others. One thing my mom and I could never make even half as well as she could. And that was her famous cornbread dressing. I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY J O R DA N M O SS

STOR E Timeless prints from the world’s most iconic photographers condenaststore.com

Home & Away – The Read

bakery cake instead of the fancy gourmet one I bought. I hadn’t yet learned that on Thanksgiving, it’s a waste of time to roast a whole entire pumpkin for pie (the canned stuff is superior anyway!), and that investing in six great dishes is far better than churning out 12 I’m too exhausted to actually eat, and that turkey tastes approximately the same no matter what you do to it.

This big golden crunchy casserole has always been the essence of Thanksgiving for me, far more than the turkey or the pies. Full of cornbread and spicy sausage, it engages all of the senses. Like everything born in New Orleans, it starts with onions and garlic and green bell peppers and celery, and as it cooks you can smell those flavors all coming together with the cayenne and the meat. When you take it out of the oven, it bubbles and crackles, its top a bronze crust, its inside deep yellow.

F T E R I W E N T T O C O L L E G E , I spent a number of Novembers away from home, and the absence of that dressing was always the hardest thing for me. Thanksgiving didn’t feel like Thanksgiving without it. There was stuffing—that word I learned to use around white people—on other tables, but even though I was told they were the same thing, just different words, stuffing always seemed bland and soggy in comparison to the dressing I was used to. The easiest holiday away was the time I went to an Indian friend’s house. Her parents got a turkey, but most of the dishes, like the lamb curry and aloo gobi and an enormous platter of samosas, had nothing to do with what my family was eating 3,000 miles away. I could enjoy the food for what it was and not compare. Once I was back home in California, my mom and I took over the bulk of the holiday cooking, but Grandma still made the dressing for as long as she could manage to chop all of the vegetables and make the cornbread. I was in my mid-20s and fresh out of law school—the phase where I thought I knew better than everyone else in my family. They had not done the reading, you see, but I had. Fresh was always better than canned or frozen or from a box; doing it the hard way was superior to the easy way; the fancy sausage should replace the kind my grandmother had always used. Those were the years when Thanksgiving felt like a race, and one I had to win—to make all the food, to make it my way, to try out all of the recipes in this magazine and so many others, to brine and spatchcock and bacon-wrap the turkey, to show how much I knew and could do, always more and better than the year before. But Grandma was suspicious of my need to improve upon everything—and she was probably right to be. Back then I hadn’t yet learned that the most important thing about cooking for other people is the joy your food can bring them. That it didn’t matter if my grandmother wanted her steak welldone, or her lamb topped with store-bought mint jelly instead of the fresh mint chimichurri I made, or her birthday celebrated with that old-fashioned 38 – NOVEMBER 2020

Back then I hadn’t yet learned that the most important thing about cooking for other people is the joy your food can bring them.

B O U T 10 Y E A R S A G O , Grandma got too weak to do all the work necessary for the dressing. Suddenly, it was up to Mom and me. But we could never get it right. We had her recipe—handwritten in her perfect script—but it had been written many years ago, and for much larger quantities than we needed, and in units of measurements like boxes and cans and packages, some for brands that no longer existed. Or it was vague and just said “sausage” and not what kind. When Mom and I tried to replicate it, we used too many fancy ingredients, either not enough stock or the wrong kind, definitely not enough butter, absolutely the wrong sausages. Sometimes it was close; sometimes it was very wrong. But we were so busy doing everything else Thanksgiving entails that we never had time to stop and plan how to fix it. Then there was the year of the explosion. That year my grandmother was rushed to the hospital on her 80th birthday because of a dangerous infection caused by a broken ankle. She got out the day before Thanksgiving, and we were all so grateful she made it home. Mom and I tried yet again with the dressing, and we had high hopes about it that time—the texture seemed right, and it looked golden and bubbly around the edges like it was supposed to. I took it out of the oven and gloried in the smell and sight of it, then turned around and set it on a cutting board that—unbeknownst to me—held a single drop of water. I had already turned back to the stove to take care of another dish when I heard it. CRACK! The dressing’s Pyrex dish had exploded, glass and clumps of golden yellow all over the kitchen. My uncles swarmed in to clean up as I frantically tried to pull bits from the garbage, determined to salvage my favorite thing about Thanksgiving— the one year I maybe finally got it right. Did I care that there was probably glass inside the dressing? In my hyped-up, panicked Thanksgiving mode, no, no I did not. My mom saw what I was doing and shrieked with laughter, gently prying what remained out of my hands. I looked around the kitchen, and then, finally, broke down and laughed with her. We finished cleaning and determined we were cursed. I ate a lot of pie that year but also promised myself

I wouldn’t stop trying to get the dressing right—we’d just use ceramic or metal pans from then on. M Y G R A N D M O T H E R A N D I had a difficult relationship—two people who always need things done their way usually do—but there was a lot of love there. Then last year she went back to the hospital. She stayed there for 16 days before she died. For most of that time, I remained in denial about what was going to happen. I didn’t tell her something very important—something about my fourth book, which was just about to come out. It was only two days before her death that we finally got to talking about it, and she asked me who I had dedicated the book to. “I dedicated it to you, Grandma.” She was so surprised. “This means that my name will be there, even after I’m gone,” she said.

WO MONTHS LATER IT

was Thanksgiving again— our first without Grandma. My mom demanded a low-key holiday, so we planned for just the essentials: turkey, potato salad (I could write another essay all about that), rolls, cranberry sauce, green beans, pie, and of course the dressing. Making it was a true comedy of errors— we couldn’t find the handwritten recipe; the butcher shop where my grandmother got her sausages every year had permanently closed; her chosen cornbread mix was sold out at every store. But we bought what we could. We settled for Italian sausages and hoped they would work. We slowed down. We tasted as we went, added more stock, more butter, and then more butter again. I wrote down every step so we’d know how to fix it the next year, and then the next. When we finally took the dressing out of the oven, we let it cool for a few minutes. Then we tasted. “Mom,” I said, “we did it.” It tasted just like Grandma’s. It tasted like Thanksgiving. Jasmine Guillory is the author of five novels, most recently Party of Two. She lives in Oakland, California.

What Does

CORNBREAD AND SALAMI DRESSING P. 73

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

Look Like

THIS YEAR?

It’s true every year, but in 2020 there’s definitely no right way to Thanksgiving. Maybe you’ll put a beautiful bronzed bird at the center of the table. Maybe it’s a beautiful bronzed frittata. Go ahead and skip the mashed potatoes (if you want), break out the tater tots (if you so choose), and take inspiration from the chefs, cookbook authors, and test kitchen editors on the following pages (if you feel like it).

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

PAV O C H O N P. 73

“Even if We Can’t Fill the Seats, We’re Filling the Table."

KHOSHAF P. 70

SOHLA EL-WAYLLY c o ntr i but ing food edit or

P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY

SMASHED GREEN BEANS WITH LEMONY SUMAC DRESSING P. 72

TAHDIG WITH CRANBERRIES AND HERBS P. 71

the

MENU TO DRINK

Khoshaf

Smashed Green Beans With Lemony Sumac Dressing

TO EAT

Garam Masala Short Rib Roast With Pistachio Crust Citrus-Ginger Raita With Spice Oil Tahdig With Cranberries and Herbs

Winter Squash Bharta Brown Butter and Sage Parathas TO FINISH

Milk and Honey Pie

BROWN BUT TER A N D SAG E PA R AT H A S P. 70

MILK AND HONEY PIE P. 72 GARAM MASALA SHORT RIB ROAST WITH PISTACHIO CRUST P. 70

CITRUS-GINGER R AITA WITH SPICE OIL P. 70

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

My husband, Ham, is a chef, so last year for Thanksgiving at the restaurant, he and his team made 38 turkeys, 45 gallons of mashed potatoes, 400 pounds of stuffing, and 15 gallons of gravy. But despite all those turkeys, back at our apartment you won’t find us gathering around one. Instead, we fill our table with food that reminds us of all the

big meals we ate growing up—yogurtmarinated roasts, saffron-stained basmati, bharta with pungent mustard oil, and bright sumac-speckled salads. We probably won’t see family this Thanksgiving, so cooking and serving our mothers’ food just like they would (i.e., making way too much and loading up the plates way too high) is how we’re going home. Even if we can’t fill the seats, we’re still filling the table.

WINTER SQUASH BHARTA P. 72

I L LU S T R AT I O N S BY DAV I D S PA R S H OT T

“It’s My Way of Saying, I’m Happy to Be Here." ANDY BARAGHANI

I am notorious for traveling with little to no notice during the holidays. While plenty of people want to be with their loved ones, I see this chunk of time as a chance to go somewhere new, somewhere faraway (please don’t be alarmed, I love my family very, very much). But this year, thwarted by the pandemic, I’ll be spending the holidays at home. We have certain staple Thanksgiving dishes, like our maple roasted carrots and morasa polo (Persian jeweled rice), and then I’ll make this bright and textured kale salad to balance everything out. Half the kale gets crisped up in the oven like chips while the rest is tossed with a gingery soy-tahini dressing. Some cut-up grapefruit goes in, and there’s extra crunch from toasted coconut flakes. It’s my way of saying, I’m happy to be here and I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. P H OTO G R A P H BY K E L LY M A R S H A L L

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

s e ni o r food edit or

R AW AND CRISPY KALE SALAD WITH GINGER AND COCONUT P. 73

“There’s No Such Thing as Bland Food in a Puerto Rican Household.” İLLYANNA MAISONET Most everyone in our family had a key to Nana’s house. But it was impossible to sneak in, even when the Sacramento sun was rising and the late November light was still soft—robbin’ hour. As soon as I’d turn the key in the door and push it open a few inches, I could hear her penetrating campo intonation: “illy?” I’d assure her it was me and listen as the melody of her coughs mingled with the creaking of her white enamel bed and then each stair step as she made her way down to the microscopic kitchen. There Nana would open the refrigerator door to reveal the turkey, already on its roasting throne. She’d start her coffee, preheat the oven to 350 degrees (because that’s the chosen Fahrenheit of our ancestors), and run the coffee through the colador I mistook for a sock my entire life. Then, when the kitchen felt as hot as being under a San Marcos blanket emblazoned with La Virgen de Guadalupe, she’d send the turkey in and start on the dressing. (Who knows how Nana came up with this combination of buttery boxed cornbread mix and salty salami, but when placed on a fork with a piece of turkey and rich gravy, it’s the perfect bite.) Soon the house would be full of people and the sounds of dominoes clicking, music tumba’ing, bodies writhing, drinks flowing, and fists throwing. I’m still not sure why Nana would wake at the crack of dawn, put the turkey in the oven, go back to bed, and take it out seven hours later. My mom was so used to turkey cooked within an inch of its life that when I went to culinary school and tweaked Nana’s recipe, she was skeptical at my claims of doneness after just three hours. I grew up with the type of turkey I hear most people complain about: dry. But never flavorless. There’s no such thing as bland in a Puerto Rican household.

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

Pavochon, both the word and the dish, is one of Puerto Rico’s many Spanglish creations. A mash-up of pavo for turkey and chon for lechón, it’s become the centerpiece of a Puerto Rican Thanksgiving. Come November, supermarket shelves across Puerto Rico hold all the classic components: cranberry sauce, stuffing, dinner rolls. The diaspora became accustomed to these items Stateside and brought them back to the island—which could be how pavochon was born. Nana herself had never seen a turkey before she came to California; once here, she used the knowledge she had to season an unfamiliar bird, lavishing it with cumin, oregano, and garlic, just as she would our country’s cherished spit-roasted pork dish. Because some people in the Puerto Rican countryside still have outdoor kitchens—using wood-fueled fogóns instead of ovens—putting the turkey on a spit and slowly roasting it until golden seems like the obvious route. But looking through my massive collection of Puerto Rican cookbooks, I find no trace of the word pavochon—or any turkey recipe at all—until the late ’90s, in the Cocina Desde Mi Pueblo companion cookbook from the popular Puerto Rican television series. What we do know is that turkey’s introduction is definitely American, one of the few favorable things that came out of colonialism. Nana has been gone since 2015, and in her absence our extended family has ceased to exist. There aren’t any more gatherings. There aren’t any more conversations. For the past five Thanksgivings, I’ve purchased a turkey from a local turkey farm and cooked it with my mom in her half-plex in Sacramento, a mile down the road from Nana’s old house. This year, once again, it will be just the two of us, sheltering as a pod. I’ll purchase the same turkey from the same turkey farm. Together we’ll turn it into the same pavochon.

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

chef a n d a u tho r o f the f o r t hc o m i n g c o o k b o o k D i a s p o r i c a n

PAV O C H O N P. 73

CORNBREAD AND SALAMI DRESSING P. 73

“If Food Could Give You a Hug, These Rolls Definitely Would.” CLAIRE SAFFITZ c o n t r i bu t i n g f o o d e di t o r

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

P U L L - A PA RT S O U R CREAM AND CHIVE ROLLS P. 74

In a normal year I try to bring balance to my family’s Thanksgiving menu, serving a bright crunchy salad and at least one green vegetable. However, in this highly abnormal year, we’re eschewing notions of balance in favor of serving what we really want to eat: an unapologetically carb-focused meal. In addition to stuffing and potatoes in multiple forms, I’ll be making these buttery Parker House –inspired rolls. The dough starts with tangzhong, a roux-like mixture often used to make Japanese milk bread, which keeps the rolls super soft and light. The slight onion flavor of chives and tang of sour cream give them oomph. They’re as equally excellent at mopping up gravy as they are at holding the contents of a leftover turkey sandwich. If food could give you a hug, these rolls definitely would.

Let Saffitz be your guide to all things baked in her new cookbook, Desser t Person: Recipes and Guidance for Baking with Confidence ($25; Clarkson Potter).

After you’ve made the dough and let it rise, it should be doubled in size.

Lightly punch down the dough to expel some of the gas.

Loosely roll up the dough just tightly enough that the chives are enclosed.

Use the heel of your hand to press the rolled-up dough into a long rectangle.

Arrange the formed rolls in a ver y generously buttered 13x9" pan.

After a second rise the rolls should be touching and look puffy and tall.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO. PULL-APART SOUR CREAM AND CHIVE ROLLS ADAPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM DESSERT PERSON: RECIPES AND GUIDANCE FOR BAKING WITH CONFIDENCE BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ (CLARKSON POTTER). COPYRIGHT © 2020.

Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and stretch it into a square.

Roll out the dough into a 12" square, dusting with more flour as needed.

This seems like a lot of chives, but they’ll distribute throughout the rolls.

Once you cut the dough into 24 individual portions, it’s time to roll!

Use the friction bet ween the dough and the counter to roll each portion into a ball.

Form each dough ball into a high, tight dome; this will give the roll its structure.

An egg wash before baking gives the rolls shiny, burnished surfaces.

A finish of flaky sea salt and coarsely ground pepper adds texture and flavor.

Brush the just-baked rolls with butter so they immediately absorb it.

“There Are No Rules When It Comes to the Meal.”

TATER TOT EGG BAKE WITH BITTER GREENS SALAD P. 74

HETTY MCKINNON

Thanksgiving is an adopted tradition in our house, so there are no rules when it comes to the meal. We moved to the U.S. from Australia in 2015, and for a year or two we tried the classic turkey-and-veg-sides combination. But as we found our feet as an immigrant family, we realized that these dishes held no historical context, or nostalgia, for us. To suit our mainly vegetarian household, we decided that the sides would become our mains. A huge spinach lasagna, vegan hazelnut-potato gratin, leek bread pudding, and always, always some form of tater tots (it’s the only time of the year my kids are allowed to eat them). While I usually bake them on top of mac and cheese, hot dish style, this year I decided to turn the tots into something different: an egg bake, which is directly inspired by, and strikingly reminiscent of, tortilla española. A Spanish tortilla is traditionally made with oil-poached potatoes, but using their processed counterparts is not new—many years ago a chef friend shared that she used leftover french fries, and chef Ferran Adrià famously makes his with potato chips. It turns out that tater tots, with their crispy exteriors and creamy middles, are perfect stand-ins. The finished product is full of texture and somehow still brimming with a tot aroma that’s undeniably familiar, even if you’ve never tasted one. P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

c o o kbook au t hor and p u b li sher, Ped d ler Jo u rn a l

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

GRILLED VINEGAR TURKEY WITH CHILES AND ROSEMARY P. 75

GRILLED LEEKS WITH BROWN BUT TER AND SPICED HAZELNUTS P. 75

“I've Got Big Plans to Grill As Much As I Possibly Can." MOLLY BAZ

It’s always been my dream to cook and eat Thanksgiving outdoors. In an ideal world the eating part of the equation would happen in a pool, on a float, in a bikini (I said ideal!). Well, this year it’s finally happening. Since I’ll be isolating in L.A., I’ve got big plans to grill as much as I possibly can. And because I’ll be in a warmer climate, my menu will skew lighter and brighter than usual. A zippy chile-spiked vinegar sauce will replace the classic roux-thickened gravy, which I’ll spoon over my grilled turkey and frankly everything else on the plate, while custardy grilled leeks might just knock mashed potatoes off the table altogether. It’s not the Thanksgiving I could ever have predicted, but I’ll take this as one extremely small, personal win for 2020.

se nior food edit or P H OTO G R A P H BY K E L LY M A R S H A L L

“We Use This Time to Be Together, Express Gratitude, and Eat Good Food.” VINCENT MEDINA AND LOUIS TREVINO

East Coast, our Ohlone ancestors were living in a traditional way, still very unaffected by colonization. But those same forces of harm came here much later for a similar reason. Colonizers settled this place for themselves and cleared people from the land by any means necessary, including genocide and slavery. Our people survived that. Now we use this time to be together, spend time with family, express gratitude, and eat good food, though how we connect with our community will look different this year since our current interactions with our elders are limited to Zooms and weekly community food drop-offs. This dish has traditionally been made with native Brodiaea potatoes, which you can only gather in the springtime and are about the size of a dime. Our people used to have controlled burns to open up meadow space and put the seed potatoes back into the soil so the next year’s

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

harvest would be even larger. But with colonization came privatization of lands, and California has since banned the burns that made those potatoes possible. Now, in a good year, we’ll gather about 15 of them the entire season. We make a deliberate choice at Cafe Ohlone to cook almost everything using only ingredients that our elders and ancestors would recognize. We’ve had to find an alternative that comes close to the integrity of those traditional Brodiaeas, so we use a farmers market heirloom variety called the Russian banana fingerling, which has a similar rich, buttery taste. We boil them with lots of herbs, like California bay laurel, and salt that we harvest from the East Bay shore. Then we drizzle them with either duck fat or smoked walnut oil and roast them with Indian green onions until the outsides of the potatoes become super caramelized and crisp and the insides get nice and soft. You can see the landscape of this area reflected in the dish: It really brings home the interconnectedness of our land, food, and culture. — AS TO L D TO C H R I ST I N A C H A E Y

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

co fo u n d ers, C a f e O h l o n e , Be r ke l e y, C A

CRISPY P OTATOES W I T H B AY AND SCALLIONS P. 76

“I Don’t Need Six Pies. I Just Need Gravy.” CHRIS MOROCCO te s t ki tchen direc t or

I’ll never forget my first turkey-less Thanksgiving: a small group of close friends, our kids, and a few private acres in upstate New York. It was glorious. Don’t get me wrong. I missed the usual six pies that my family serves, but at the end of the day, there was gravy— and for me, that’s the thing that makes Thanksgiving feel like Thanksgiving. I wish that this year I could recapture the spirit of that simple gathering where I served this Squash and Caramelized-Onion Tart, ringed by tons of bright vegetable side dishes, to the mostly vegetarian crowd. Instead, I’ll be with my wife and kids, watching in quiet desperation as my sons pick all the skin and flavorful bits off this garlic-coated chicken. But that destruction will be instantly forgotten as we ladle our fast-cooking gluten-free onion gravy over everything on our plates. And hey, maybe I’ll even bake a few pies. No, not six. I don’t need six pies. I just need gravy. P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

ONION G R AV Y P. 76

SQUASH AND CARAMELIZEDONION TART P. 76

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

DOUBLEGARLIC ROAST CHICKEN P. 76

JERK TURKEY S H E P H E R D ’S P I E P. 7 7

“I’m Making One Dish That Incorporates an Entire Feast." TIFFANY-ANNE PARKES chef-owner, Pienanny, NYC

HIBISCUS CRANBERRY SAUCE P. 78

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

There’s no Thanksgiving spread like a Jamaican Thanksgiving spread. When I was growing up, we’d have one table laden with traditional savory dishes like curry goat, rice and peas, and jerk chicken, and another full of pies for dessert. Things are different this year, so I’m making one dish that incorporates an entire feast. Hibiscus cranberry sauce, inspired by my mom’s holiday sorrel drink, tames the heat of the jerk turkey; pie crust stands in for the island’s doughy fried festivals; limezested mashed potatoes go on top. Like Jamaica itself, this is a mash-up of cultures and flavors and ideas—all together in one delicious savory pie. — AS TO L D TO H I L A RY CA D I G A N

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY

“They Want Really Traditional Food. I Wanna Have Some Fun!” AMANDA MACK b a ker - o w n er, C r u s t b y M a c k , Bal t i m o re

PECAN PUMPKIN SPICE CHOCOL ATE CHIP COOKIES P. 78

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

SWEET P OTATO CAKE WITH SALTED CREAM CHEESE FROSTING P. 79

— AS TO L D TO M E RY L R OT H ST E I N

Punch out dough rounds close together to minimize waste.

Spoon filling into the center and try to keep edges clean. Less is more!

Make sure to press firmly enough with fork to seal top and bottom crusts.

Cut all the way through the top crust so steam can escape during baking.

Egg wash helps achieve a golden color and gives the sugar something to stick to.

Crunchy sugar adds sparkle and texture (but granulated sugar works in a pinch).

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

Usually there are 20 of us, or even more than that. Basically all my grandmother’s children, her grandkids, and her great-grandkids. We all sit around the table together, and there’s no space at all, and it’s one of the most fun things. But unlike any holiday ever before, this year’s dinner will be set for only five— my husband, my kids, and me. I got teary-eyed thinking about it. But there will be some good things about it. I’ve tried to be creative a few times in the past—I’m a professional!—and it has not gone over well with my family. They’re like, “Oh, you can do that for the cookout or for game night.” They want really traditional Thanksgiving food. But I wanna have some fun! These desserts are an homage to the traditions I can’t wait to get back to, except I’m putting my own spin on them this year. And I’m gonna put them right in the center of my table.

FLAKY CRANBERRY HAND PIES P. 78

“I Want to Eat Leftover Turkey the Way I Want To.” BRANDON JEW

Think about your Thanksgiving meal. It’s a lot of butter, warm spices—just decadence. The next day, I’m looking for something to contrast all that. Something acidic, bright, and spicy enough to open my nostrils a little. Which is why I’m making mouthwatering turkey, a nod to the Sichuan dish ma la ji pian that typically features chicken. I’m shredding the remaining turkey meat, then drenching it in chile oil and black vinegar, serving it with glass noodles, and throwing a bunch of herbs on top. Something about this year makes me feel like: Screw it. I want to eat leftover turkey the way I want to. — AS TOLD TO ELYSE INAMINE

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

c he f- owner, Mist er Jiu ’s, Sa n F ra n ci sco

M O U T H WAT E R I N G TURKEY WITH GLASS NOODLES P. 7 9

Khoshaf This simple refreshing drink, which Sohla often uses to break fast during Ramadan, gives all kinds of holiday vibes. Though defiantly not halal, spike it with a splash of liqueur, or keep it nonalcoholic and sweeten with a honey syrup instead. 6 S E RV I N G S

3 bags chamomile tea 1 cup mixed dried fruit (such as apricots, figs, prunes, and/or cranberries), pits removed if needed, cut into ½"–1" pieces if large ⅓ cup honey (optional) Floral, fruit, or spiced liqueur (such as St-Germain, arak, Cardamaro, or sambuca; for serving; optional) Place tea bags and fruit in a heatproof pitcher or large measuring glass or jar and pour 4 cups boiling water over. Let sit 5 minutes. Remove tea bags, wringing them out into pitcher to get every last drop. Cover and chill at least 12 hours and up to 1 week. If using honey, mix in a small bowl with ⅓ cup hot water until dissolved. Cover and chill until ready to serve. To serve, divide fruit and tea among glasses. Sweeten with honey syrup or liqueur if desired.

Garam Masala Short Rib Roast With Pistachio Crust 4 – 8 S E RV I N G S This recipe will work for one or two ribs as well if you want to make it for an intimate party of two or three. The cook time and method won’t change, but you will have some dry brine left over for next time. Call your butcher in advance to reserve this cut and ask for the thickest short ribs they have.

¼ cup garam masala ¼ cup Diamond Crystal or 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt 3 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 tsp. MSG (optional) 1 3–5-bone beef short rib plate roast (3–5 lb.) 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ¼ cup reserved Citrus-Ginger Raita (see recipe) ¼ cup finely chopped raw pistachios Flaky sea salt Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil; set a wire rack inside. Whisk garam masala, salt, brown sugar, and MSG (if using) in a small bowl. Trim any silver skin and

excess fat from short ribs and pat dry with paper towels. Rub all over with 1 Tbsp. oil, then generously coat with dry rub, pressing to adhere (you may not need all of it). Place on prepared baking sheet. Chill, uncovered, at least 12 hours and up to 2 days (the longer the better). Let short ribs sit at room temperature 1 hour before baking. Preheat oven to 250°. Drizzle 1 Tbsp. oil over meat. Pour 1 cup water into prepared baking sheet and cover tightly with foil. Bake until meat is tender (when you tug at a bone, it should feel like it will slip right out), 4–5½ hours (grassfed beef will cook faster than grain-fed). Remove short ribs from oven; increase oven temperature to 325°. Uncover meat. Spread top with raita, then sprinkle with pistachios, gently pressing to adhere. Drizzle with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil; season with sea salt. Roast until nuts are golden brown, 30–35 minutes. Remove from oven; let rest 15 minutes before serving. D O A H E A D : Roast (without crust) can be baked 2 days ahead. Let cool (keep covered), then chill. To reheat, add ½ cup water to baking sheet, wrap tightly, and bake at 325° until warmed through, 30–40 minutes.

Citrus-Ginger Raita With Spice Oil M A K E S A B O U T 2 ½ C U P S Labneh is made by taking strained yogurt and straining it again so you’re left with something extra thick and rich. It can accommodate all the added lemon and orange juice while staying thick enough to be scooped up with hot parathas. If all you have is Greek yogurt, that works too—just know you’ll end up with a thinner raita.

2 1½ 1½ ¼ 2 1 1 1 1 ½ ½

cups labneh tsp. finely grated orange zest tsp. finely grated lemon zest cup fresh orange juice Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. finely grated peeled ginger Tbsp. sugar Kosher salt Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil tsp. coriander seeds, crushed tsp. ground turmeric tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

Whisk labneh, orange zest, lemon zest, orange juice, lemon juice, ginger, and sugar in a small bowl to combine; season with salt. Set ¼ cup raita aside for making short rib crust.

Just before serving, heat oil in a small saucepan over medium-high. Add coriander seeds and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until fragrant and popping, about 1 minute. Add turmeric and chile powder; cook, shaking pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour over raita. D O A H E A D : Raita (without oil) can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Brown Butter and Sage Parathas M A K E S 8 For the flakiest results, form the dough coils the night before and let them rest overnight wrapped tightly in plastic. And if you have time, parcook the parathas in advance too so they can chill fully in the fridge before the final cook.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 24 sage leaves 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 Tbsp. sugar 3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat until foamy, about 6 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until butter begins to sputter, about 2 minutes more. Add sage leaves and cook, stirring constantly, until sputtering subsides, milk solids are light golden brown, and sage leaves are crisp, 5–7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sage leaves to a plate and lightly season with salt; set aside. Continue to cook butter, stirring constantly, until milk solids are deep golden brown, about 1 minute more. Pour brown butter into a heatproof measuring glass, scraping in milk solids. Let sit undisturbed until milk solids fall to bottom of glass, about 2 minutes. Carefully pour all but ¼ cup brown butter into a small bowl, leaving milk solids behind. Chill brown butter with milk solids until thickened and creamy but still soft; set aside for layering in the parathas. Whisk sugar, 3 cups (375 g) flour, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl. Add 1 cup warm water and 3 Tbsp. melted brown butter and mix with a wooden spoon until no dry spots of flour remain and dough comes together in a shaggy mass. Cover with a plate and let sit at room temperature 15 minutes. Knead dough in bowl until it forms a smooth mass, about 2 minutes. Transfer to an unfloured surface and continue to

knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. (The dough will feel very sticky at first but will grow smooth and soft as you go. Try to avoid adding more flour if possible.) Roll dough against surface to form into a ball; return to bowl. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp. melted brown butter and turn to coat. Arrange seam side down and cover with plastic wrap. Let sit at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours (if you poke the dough with your finger it shouldn’t spring back). Using a bench scraper or chef’s knife, divide dough into 8 pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time, cup dough in your palm and roll against work surface to form into a ball. Coat each ball with brown butter; cover with a damp towel, plastic wrap, or overturned bowl and let sit 20 minutes. Stir reserved chilled brown butter to evenly distribute milk solids into fat and make sure it’s creamy and spreadable. Roll out 1 piece of dough on a lightly floured surface until as thin as possible. Don’t worry about size or shape at this point; you just want it to be superthin. Using your fingers or an offset spatula, spread a heaping teaspoonful of chilled brown butter across dough (it doesn’t have to be even, just get it on there), dust lightly with flour, and break 3 sage leaves into pieces and scatter on top. Starting from the top, roll dough into a long snake. Fold ends inward until they meet at the center, then stack the 2 coils onto each other and press together firmly. Lightly dust with flour and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Once all pieces have been coiled, cover and let rest at room temperature at least 2 hours or chill overnight. Heat a dry medium cast-iron skillet (10" or larger) over medium. Working one at a time, roll out dough coils on a lightly floured surface to 7"–8" rounds about ⅛" thick, rotating after each roll to keep evenly round. Brush off any excess flour with a pastry brush. Parcook paratha in skillet until just set but without taking on any color, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a clean baking sheet as you work. Brush pan with brown butter and place a parcooked paratha in middle of pan. Brush paratha with more brown butter and cook, turning every 30 seconds and adding more brown butter as needed, until golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Wrap in a kitchen towel to keep warm and quickly scrunch to

release any steam (this will keep them from getting soggy). Repeat with remaining parathas, stacking in towel as you go. D O A H E A D : Parathas can be parcooked 1 day ahead. Wrap tightly and chill, or freeze up to 3 months.

Tahdig With Cranberries and Herbs 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S A large lightweight nonstick pot with a tight-fitting lid is vital to properly steam the rice and develop a crispy crust that easily releases from the pot. Wrapping the lid with a clean kitchen towel prevents the steam from condensing and rolling down the sides of the pot. Seek out high-quality aged basmati rice, preferably parboiled, which is steamed and dried. It cooks up fluffier and is more forgiving.

2½ cups basmati rice, preferably sella ¾ cup plus ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 7 Tbsp. plus ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ cup ghee ⅓ cup unsweetened dried cranberries 2 sprigs rosemary 2 sprigs sage 2 sprigs thyme Big pinch of saffron threads 1 tsp. sugar 1 large egg yolk 2 Tbsp. plain whole-milk Greek yogurt S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A mortar and pestle

Place rice in a medium bowl. Pour in cool water to cover and gently agitate grains with your hands; drain. Repeat process until water is almost clear, at least 2 more times. Cover again with cool water and let soak at least 15 minutes and up to 2 hours. Bring ¾ cup Diamond Crystal or 7 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt and 3 quarts water to a rapid boil in a large nonstick pot. Drain rice and add all at once to pot (it will sink to the bottom). Stir a few times with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking, then stop stirring. Return water to a simmer and cook until grains are nearly doubled in size and most of rice is rapidly bubbling up to the surface, 3–7 minutes, depending on quality of rice. When you bite into a grain, you should see a small white core; grains should remain firm. Drain rice and rinse under cold running water until cool; reserve pot. Set rice aside.

Melt ghee in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add cranberries, rosemary, sage, and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until cranberries are plump and herbs frizzle and crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer cranberries and herbs to a plate. Set ghee aside. Grind saffron and sugar with mortar and pestle to a fine powder. Add 2 Tbsp. hot water and stir to dissolve; set aside. Mix egg yolk, yogurt, half of reserved ghee (scant ¼ cup), 1 Tbsp. saffron mixture, and remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add 1½ cups reserved rice and gently stir to combine. Transfer to reserved pot and spread in an even layer with a spoon. Arrange herbs on top. Using a large spoon, mound half of remaining rice on top in a small hill, taking care that rice does not touch the sides of pot. Top with cranberries, then mound remaining rice over. Using the handle of a wooden spoon or a chopstick, make a hole in the center of the mound all the way to just above tahdig (the bottom layer). This will help the steam circulate throughout the rice. Drizzle remaining saffron mixture and ghee over, followed by 2 Tbsp. water. Wrap lid with a kitchen towel; cover pot. Secure ends of towel to pot handles with rubber bands or twine. Set pot over medium-high heat. Do not uncover at any point. Cook until sides of pot are very hot to the touch and you can hear the tahdig simmering, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, undisturbed, until rice begins to smell toasty (but not burnt) and simmering sounds have subsided, 40–45 minutes. (If it’s your first time making tahdig, start checking for cues after 25 minutes. Timing can vary greatly depending on your pot and burners.) Remove lid; the rice should be fluffy and fully cooked. Using an offset spatula or fork, lift the bottom layer and take a peek to see if a crust has formed. If not, re-cover pot and continue cooking another 10 minutes. Once it has, remove pot from heat and let rice sit, covered, 10 minutes. Uncover rice and scoop off mounded rice along with cranberries and herbs to a platter. Loosen rice crust with an offset spatula and either turn out onto another plate or break into large pieces in the pot and place atop rice, golden side up. D O A H E A D : Rice can be parboiled 2 days ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before using.

4 – 6 S E RV I N G S Blanch, smash, and marinate these green beans in advance so they have plenty of time to soak in the bright lemon and sumac dressing.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 lb. green beans ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. sumac or 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 medium Asian pear 1 cup (lightly packed) parsley leaves with tender stems Cook oil and pumpkin seeds (or use reserved cleaned seeds from Winter Squash Bharta; see recipe) in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until oil around seeds is sizzling and seeds are golden, about 4 minutes. Strain pumpkin seeds through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl; set oil aside. Transfer pumpkin seeds to a plate; immediately season with salt and pepper. Let cool. Working in batches if needed, cook green beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until bright green and crisptender, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to an ice water bath as you go. Whisk lemon juice and sumac in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Gradually stream in reserved oil, whisking constantly until incorporated. Working with 5–7 green beans at a time, line up beans and trim stem ends. Smash with a rolling pin to split open. Cut beans into 1" pieces and transfer to bowl with dressing. Toss to coat and let sit at room temperature at least 1 hour or cover and chill up to 12 hours. When ready to serve, cut pear into ½"-thick wedges, then halve crosswise. Add to green beans along with parsley and half of reserved pumpkin seeds; toss well. Top with remaining pumpkin seeds.

1 2-lb. small red kuri, kabocha, or butternut squash 3 Tbsp. mustard seed oil*, divided Kosher salt ½ small red onion, finely chopped ½ cup finely chopped cilantro 2 red or green Thai chiles, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. ghee 1½ tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ½ tsp. cayenne pepper Freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 350°. Using a sharp heavy knife, halve squash lengthwise and scoop out seeds with a spoon (if desired, clean and use in Smashed Green Beans; see recipe). Rub cut sides of squash with 1 Tbsp. oil and season generously with salt. Place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until tender, 60–75 minutes. Scoop squash flesh from skin into a serving bowl. Using a potato masher or fork, smash until mostly smooth. Set aside a big spoonful of red onion and cilantro. Mix in chiles, ghee, coriander, cumin, chile powder, remaining red onion, remaining cilantro, and remaining 2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt and pepper. Top squash with reserved onion and cilantro just before serving. D O A H E A D : Squash can be baked and mashed 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

Milk and Honey Pie Mounding the meringue onto the pudding while it is still hot helps it set better so you don’t end up with a weepy, slip-slide-y meringue. 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S

CRUST

1 Tbsp. sugar 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1½ cups (3 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½" pieces

Winter Squash Bharta 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S Bharta is a Bangladeshi style of seasoned meat or mashed vegetables usually served at room temperature alongside hot steamed rice. Its signature flavor comes from the use of pungent and fiery mustard seed oil. If you can’t find mustard seed oil, substitute with extra-virgin olive oil—just don’t call it a bharta!

HONEY PUDDING

¾ cup honey ⅓ cup (45 g) cornstarch ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 5 large egg yolks 2 large eggs 1½ cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream

M I L K M E R I N G U E A N D ASS E M B LY

¼ 1 1 5 ¼

cup (35 g) nonfat milk powder Tbsp. cornstarch cup (200 g) sugar, divided large egg whites tsp. kosher salt

C R U S T Whisk sugar, salt, and 1½ cups (188 g) flour in a medium bowl. Add butter and toss to coat and distribute. Using your hands and working quickly, rub and smash butter into flat irregular pieces. (Be careful not to overwork; you don’t want to soften the butter too much. Just make sure you smash each piece at least once.) Drizzle ⅓ cup cold water over and mix with a rubber spatula, smashing in butter, until dough mostly comes together; it will be dry and shaggy. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Gather dough into a rough 1½"-thick square. Lightly flour dough and gently press and roll out to a ½"-thick square. Fold dough in half, then in half again to make a square. Repeat rolling and folding process 2 more times. Pat dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic, and chill at least 2 hours. Dust dough with flour and place on a lightly floured surface. Using rolling pin, gently press out dough while rotating until just under 1" thick. Lightly flour both sides of dough and continue rolling out, stopping often to turn dough and flour, to a 13"–14" round about ⅛" thick. Brush off excess flour on both sides. Fold dough in half, then in half again, and transfer to a 9"-diameter pie dish. Unfold into dish and lift edges to allow dough to slump into dish. Gently press into dish. Using kitchen shears or a small, sharp knife, trim off any excess dough so you have about 1½" overhang. Fold overhang under dough and crimp edges as desired. Chill in freezer at least 1 hour. Place a rack on the lower third of oven; preheat to 350°. Line crust with 2 layers of foil, making sure to cover edges. Fill with pie weights or dried beans (go all the way to the top). Set on a baking sheet and bake 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool 15 minutes. Remove pie weights and foil. Use the same foil to cover edges of crust, leaving sides and center exposed. Return to oven and bake until golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Transfer to rack and let cool. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 3 months ahead; cover and keep frozen. Thaw at room temperature 1–2 hours or in the fridge overnight before using. Crust can be baked 3 days ahead; store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

*MOST MUSTARD OILS ARE NOT FDA-APPROVED AS EDIBLE IN THE UNITED STATES DUE TO THEIR HIGH ERUCIC ACID CONTENT. IF YOU ARE CONCERNED, LOOK FOR YANDILLA, AN FDA-APPROVED BRAND, ONLINE, OR USE OLIVE OIL INSTEAD.

Smashed Green Beans With Lemony Sumac Dressing

H O N E Y P U D D I N G Whisk honey, cornstarch, and salt in a medium saucepan until smooth. Add egg yolks and eggs and whisk until well combined. Stream in milk and cream, whisking until incorporated. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens and begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. As soon as you see that first bubble, set a timer and simmer 1 minute. (This ensures that the cornstarch is fully hydrated and a protein-dissolving enzyme found in eggs is deactivated.) Pour into pie crust; smooth surface. M I L K M E R I N G U E A N D ASS E M B LY With rack still in lower third of oven, preheat oven to 350° if needed. Pulse milk powder, cornstarch, and 2 Tbsp. sugar in a spice mill or blender until fine; set aside. Pour water into a clean medium saucepan to come 2" up sides; bring to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk egg whites, salt, and remaining sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer just to combine. Set over pan of simmering water and cook, stirring and scraping bottom and sides constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until warm to the touch and sugar is dissolved, 5–7 minutes. Fit bowl back on stand mixer, attach whisk, and beat mixture on high speed until thick and fluffy and meringue balls up inside whisk, about 4 minutes. Reduce speed to low; sprinkle reserved milk powder mixture over and beat just to combine. Using a spoon, pile meringue over pudding and spread to edges, creating big swoops and swirls. Place in oven and immediately reduce heat to 250°. Bake until meringue is golden brown and crisp on the outside but still soft on the inside, about 75 minutes. Chill 3 hours before serving. Slice with a barely damp serrated knife for clean portions.

Raw and Crispy Kale Salad With Ginger and Coconut 8 S E RV I N G S The grapefruit adds a touch of bitterness that goes well with the salty soy-and-ginger dressing, but oranges and tangerines also work.

4 bunches Tuscan kale (1½ lb.), ribs and stems removed 2 Tbsp. plus ½ cup grapeseed or vegetable oil Kosher salt ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 3 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce or tamari 3 Tbsp. tahini

2 2 2 1 1 1

tsp. honey tsp. toasted sesame oil tsp. finely grated peeled ginger small garlic clove, finely grated medium shallot, thinly sliced small red or green Thai or serrano chile, thinly sliced 1½ cups unsweetened coconut flakes 2 medium grapefruits ¾ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems or mint leaves, torn if large Preheat oven to 375°. Divide half of kale between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets. Drizzle each with 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil, season with salt, and toss to coat. Spread out in a single layer and bake until crisp and lightly browned in spots, 8–10 minutes. Set kale chips aside. Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice, soy sauce, tahini, honey, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and remaining ½ cup grapeseed oil in a large bowl. Mix in shallot and chile, season dressing lightly with salt, and let sit at least 5 minutes. Toast coconut in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, tossing once or twice, until most flakes are golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Using a paring knife, remove peel and white pith from grapefruits. Slice however you want, working to avoid cores. Tear remaining raw kale into bite-size pieces and add to bowl with dressing. Season with more salt and give kale a good scrunch to soften. Add grapefruit, coconut, cilantro, and reserved kale chips and gently toss to combine.

lemon; set lemon aside. Season inside and out all over with salt and pepper (be generous with the salt). Rub butter over breast meat underneath skin. Mash oil, achiote paste, oregano, granulated garlic, and cumin in a small bowl to a smooth paste. Rub an even layer all over outside of turkey. Tie legs together with kitchen twine. Let sit at room temperature 2 hours, or set on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet and chill, uncovered, up to 2 days. If chilled, let turkey sit at room temperature 1 hour before roasting. Place a rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 450°. Place onion, garlic, celery, and reserved lemon inside turkey cavity. Place turkey in a large roasting pan on top of a flat or V-shaped wire rack. Pour 1½ cups water into pan. Roast turkey, rotating once if it is browning unevenly, until skin is browned all over and beginning to crisp, 25–30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350° and continue to roast turkey, basting with pan juices every 30 minutes, adding more water by ½-cupfuls if completely evaporated, and rotating pan if browning unevenly, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of breasts registers 150°–155° and thickest part of thighs registers 165°– 170°, about 1½ hours longer. Transfer turkey to a cutting board; let rest 30–60 minutes before carving. (If making gravy, deglaze pan and use drippings.)

Cornbread and Salami Dressing Pavochon

This eggless dressing holds together just fine thanks to plenty of chicken broth and tender cornbread that takes on the ideal crispy-soft texture. Maisonet uses two boxes of Jiffy mix to make her cornbread. 8 S E RV I N G S

Achiote paste is essential for getting that deep burnished color and extra rich flavor all over the turkey. 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S

1 12–14-lb. whole turkey, neck and giblets removed, patted dry 1 lemon, halved Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) paste 2 Tbsp. dried oregano 2 Tbsp. granulated garlic 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 large onion, halved 5 garlic cloves 2 celery stalks Using your fingers, gently separate skin from breast meat starting at neck. Rub outside of turkey all over with cut sides of

8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided, plus more for pan 12 cups 1" cubes cornbread 1 8–10-oz. salami, cut into ½" pieces 1 large onion, cut into ½" pieces 3 celery stalks, cut into ½" pieces 5 garlic cloves, chopped Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp. finely chopped sage 1 5–7-oz. bag stuffing mix croutons 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth Place rack in middle of oven; preheat oven to 350°. Butter a 13x9" glass baking dish. Arrange cornbread in an

even layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, tossing halfway through, until golden brown around edges and partially dried out, 25–30 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, melt 1 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook salami, tossing often, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer salami to a large bowl. Add remaining 7 Tbsp. butter to skillet and let melt. Add onion, celery, and garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Cook (still over medium), stirring occasionally, until very soft, 10–12 minutes. Add sage and toss to combine. Add croutons and toasted cornbread to salami and gently toss to combine. Add vegetable mixture and any butter in skillet and gently toss again. Drizzle broth over and let it absorb into bread; season with salt and pepper. Toss gently until just combined (overmixing will cause the cornbread to fall apart); season with more salt and pepper if needed. Dressing should be moist, but there shouldn’t be any liquid pooling in bottom of bowl. Transfer to prepared baking dish and bake until golden brown on top and bottom, 40–45 minutes.

Pull-Apart Sour Cream and Chive Rolls M A K E S 2 4 These melt-in-your-mouth dinner rolls are even more tender and pillowy than the classic Parker House rolls that inspired this recipe because of the tangzhong, a white roux made from flour and milk cooked to a stiff paste. The cooked starches in the tangzhong help the dough retain moisture.

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. whole milk 5⅓ cups (667 g) bread flour, divided, plus more 1½ tsp. active dry yeast 1 cup sour cream, room temperature ¼ cup (50 g) sugar 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 3 large eggs 8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, divided, room temperature ½ cup finely chopped chives Flaky sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Whisk ½ cup milk, ⅓ cup flour (42 g), and ½ cup water in a small saucepan until smooth. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until a very stiff

paste forms (it should resemble mashed potatoes), about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; scrape tangzhong into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Gently warm remaining 2 Tbsp. milk in same saucepan over low heat until lukewarm. Remove from heat, add yeast, and whisk until dissolved. Let sit until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes. Add sour cream, sugar, kosher salt, 2 eggs, 4 Tbsp. butter, and remaining 5 cups bread flour (625 g) to tangzhong. Scrape in yeast mixture and mix on low speed until a shaggy dough forms. Increase speed to medium and mix, scraping down sides of bowl occasionally and adding more flour by the tablespoonful if sticky, until dough is smooth and supple, 8–10 minutes. Scrape dough onto a work surface and form into a smooth ball; dust lightly with flour. Place inside a clean large bowl and cover with plastic wrap or a silicone lid. Let sit in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, 1–1½ hours. Meanwhile, coat a 13x9" pan, preferably metal, with 2 Tbsp. butter (it will be a generous layer, which is what you want). Uncover dough and punch down lightly to expel some of the gas. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and stretch into a square. Roll out, dusting with more flour as needed to prevent sticking, to a 12" square and sprinkle chives evenly over dough. Starting at one end, loosely roll up dough. Flatten with the heel of your hands into a long rectangle. Roll out dough again, dusting with more flour as needed, into a 16x6" rectangle. Using a wheel cutter or bench scraper, cut dough into twenty-four 2"-squarish pieces (an 8x3 grid). Working with 1 piece of dough, gather all the corners and pinch together to form a teardrop shape. Place seam side down on work surface. Cup your hand over dough and drag across surface, moving your hand in a rapid circular motion, to form dough into a tight ball. Do not add flour, as you want friction between the dough and the surface. Place ball in prepared pan and repeat with remaining pieces of dough, spacing to make a 6x4 grid. Cover pan with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm, draftfree spot until rolls are nearly doubled in size, 45–60 minutes. Meanwhile, place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°. Using a fork, whisk remaining egg in a small bowl until no streaks remain. Uncover pan and gently brush tops of

rolls with egg, then sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Bake rolls until tops are deep golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Remove pan from oven and immediately brush tops with remaining 2 Tbsp. butter. Let cool in pan 5 minutes. Slide a knife or an offset spatula around sides of pan to loosen rolls, then slide a metal spatula underneath to loosen the bottom. Slide entire grid of rolls out and onto a wire rack. Serve warm or let cool. D O A H E A D : Rolls can be formed and arranged in pan 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Let rise at room temperature before baking (this can take up to 3 hours). Rolls can be baked 3 days ahead. Let cool; store airtight at room temperature.

Tater Tot Egg Bake With Bitter Greens Salad 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S You might be surprised by (and skeptical of!) the amount of tots in this recipe, but a lot of them break down to form a creamy union with the gently set egg. The resulting texture is reminiscent of that of the oil-poached potatoes in a tortilla española, which was the inspiration for this dish.

1 small shallot, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 7–8 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided Freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup sliced almonds 1 large onion, halved through root end, thinly sliced 10 large eggs 1 32-oz. bag tater tots, thawed 1 small head of radicchio, leaves separated, torn 2 cups baby arugula 3 oz. Manchego cheese, shaved Whisk shallot, orange juice, vinegar, 3 Tbsp. oil, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl to combine; season dressing with pepper. Set aside. Toast almonds in a dry 10" nonstick skillet (at least 2" deep) over mediumhigh heat, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Wipe out skillet, pour in 2 Tbsp. oil, and reduce heat to medium. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally and reducing heat if needed, until very soft

but without taking on any color, 10–12 minutes. Let cool slightly. Meanwhile, whisk eggs in a large bowl with remaining 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with pepper. Fold in tater tots and let sit 10 minutes. Fold onion into egg mixture (try to keep tater tots intact, but it’s okay if some break up). Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in same skillet over medium-high. Pour egg mixture into pan and flatten surface with a heatproof rubber spatula to make sure tater tots are mostly submerged. Reduce heat to low; cook, undisturbed, watching edges to make sure egg isn’t getting too brown, until golden underneath and top is only a little runny, 20–25 minutes. Using spatula, loosen edges of egg. Wearing oven mitts, place a large plate upside down over skillet and swiftly flip over to turn egg out onto plate. If skillet is dry, add 1 Tbsp oil. Slide egg back into skillet, top side down, and cook until center is just set, about 5 minutes. Transfer back to plate; let cool if desired. To serve, add radicchio, arugula, cheese, and nuts to reserved dressing and toss to combine; season with salt and plenty of pepper. Pile salad on top of tortilla. GRILL THE COVER

Grilled Vinegar Turkey With Chiles and Rosemary Cutting the turkey in half dramatically reduces the cook time. Brine the night before and you’ll be able to get it on the table after just an hour and a half or so on the grill. If you aren’t up for tackling the butchery yourself, most butchers will do it for you. Our recipe is inspired by the vinegar chicken at Bernie’s in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S W I T H L E F T OV E R S

BRINE

6 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 3 Tbsp. paprika 2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 1¼ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 12–14-lb. turkey, backbone removed, halved along breastbone S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill 2 red Fresno chiles or jalapeños, thinly sliced 2 cups sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 6 large sprigs rosemary ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1" pieces 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce B R I N E Mix salt, paprika, brown sugar, pepper, and cinnamon in a small bowl. Pat turkey halves dry and cover all over with spice mix, packing on until you’ve used all of it. Arrange turkey halves, breast side up, on a rimmed baking sheet and chill, uncovered, at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY Let turkey sit at room temperature 1 hour before grilling. Pat dry with paper towels, then brush all over with 3 Tbsp. oil. Whisk chiles, vinegar, brown sugar, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a measuring glass or small bowl until sugar dissolves. Prepare a grill for medium indirect heat (for a charcoal grill, bank coals on one side of grill; for a gas grill, leave one or two burners off); lightly oil grate. Cover grill; heat to 350° (place an oven thermometer in the center of indirect side of grill if there isn’t one built in). Place turkey, skin side up, over indirect heat, with breast halves next to each other and farthest away from the heat (the legs should be closest to the heat). Cover grill and grill turkey, basting skin with chile sauce every 20 minutes, until an instantread thermometer inserted into thickest part of breasts registers 140° and thickest part of legs registers 160°, 1¼–1¾ hours. Keep an eye on the temperature inside the grill and aim to maintain heat at 350° as much as possible. If using a gas grill and the temperature drops significantly, turn on a second burner to medium-low to bring the temperature back up. If using a charcoal grill, light a chimney of coals and add as needed. Lightly oil grate on hot side of grill. Using tongs and a large spatula to support the turkey, turn turkey halves over, arranging skin side down over direct heat. Brush turkey with chile sauce (you won’t use all of it) and grill, uncovered, until skin is charred and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Thickest part of breasts should now register 150° on thermometer and legs should register 170°. Arrange rosemary sprigs over a cutting board and set turkey, skin side up, on top. Let rest 30–60 minutes before carving.

While the turkey rests, bring remaining chile sauce to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in butter a piece at a time, incorporating completely after each addition. Stir in Worcestershire sauce; season with salt. Carve turkey as desired and transfer to a platter; arrange rosemary around. Pour sauce over turkey, along with any accumulated juices on cutting board.

Grilled Leeks With Brown Butter and Spiced Hazelnuts 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S The glory of these leeks is the contrast between their deeply charred exteriors and jammy, sweet interiors. Pay attention to the hot spots on your grill and move leeks around if they are charring more quickly in some places than others.

1 ¼ 4 ¼ 1¼ 1 3 1 3 12

cup crushed blanched hazelnuts cup sesame seeds Tbsp. unsalted butter cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil tsp. smoked paprika tsp. light or dark brown sugar tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more garlic cloves medium leeks or 8 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, roots trimmed, halved, quartered if large Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

Prepare a grill for medium-low heat. Cook hazelnuts, sesame seeds, butter, and ¼ cup oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring and swirling pan often, until nuts are a deep golden brown, 7–10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in paprika, brown sugar, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Finely grate in garlic; stir to combine. Set aside. Place leeks in a medium bowl and toss with remaining 3 Tbsp. oil and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with pepper. Arrange leeks, cut side down, on grate. Cover and grill, undisturbed, until deeply charred underneath, 10–15 minutes. Using tongs, turn leeks over. Cover and grill until deeply charred on other side and very soft inside (cut through one to test), 10–13 minutes. Transfer leeks to a platter. Drizzle vinegar over; top with sauce and nuts.

Crispy Potatoes With Bay and Scallions 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S When Medina and Trevino make this dish, they use ingredients indigenous to California’s East Bay, including foraged native potatoes, salt they harvest from the Bay shore, and California bay laurel. Since most of our readers don’t have access to the same ingredients, we have called for more widely available substitutes here.

2 lb. fingerling or other small waxy potatoes, scrubbed 4 fresh bay leaves Kosher salt 3 Tbsp. duck fat, room temperature 6 scallions, sliced on a diagonal into ½" pieces Preheat oven to 425°. Combine potatoes, bay leaves, and a few handfuls of salt in a large pot. Pour in cold water to cover potatoes by 2". Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, 25–35 minutes. Drain and transfer potatoes and bay leaves to a large rimmed baking sheet. Coat evenly with duck fat; season with salt. Roast, shaking baking sheet once or twice, until golden and beginning to crisp, 25–30 minutes. Remove from oven and mix in scallions. Return to oven and roast until scallions are softened and browned at the edges and potatoes are golden brown and crisp, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish.

Squash and Caramelized-Onion Tart 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S This tart can hold its own as a vegetarian main at the center of the table but makes for an elegant and versatile side as well. CRUST

1 cup whole wheat flour 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 10 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Pinch of cayenne pepper

4 oz. sharp cheddar or Gruyère, coarsely grated ½ small butternut squash (about 1¼ lb.), seeds removed 1 delicata squash (about 1 lb.), halved lengthwise, seeds removed 1 small sweet potato, halved lengthwise 1 small red onion, halved through root end 2 sprigs thyme 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter Flaky sea salt S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : An 11"- or 12"-diameter fluted tart pan with removable bottom or a 9"-diameter springform pan C R U S T Whisk whole wheat flour, salt, and 1 cup all-purpose flour in a large bowl to combine. Add butter and work into dry ingredients with your hands, smashing between your palms to flatten, until largest pieces are about the size of a nickel. Drizzle in 6 Tbsp. ice water; rake into dry ingredients with your fingers. Gently squeeze handfuls of mixture together until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a clean surface and knead until only a few dry spots remain. Pat into a disk; wrap in plastic. Chill until very firm, at least 2 hours and up to 3 days. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface to about ⅛" thick. Transfer to tart pan and lift up edges, allowing dough to slump down into pan. Gently press into pan and trim excess. (If using a springform pan, trim dough to come 1½" up sides of pan.) Freeze until firm, 15–20 minutes, or cover and chill in refrigerator up to 12 hours. F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Place a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 350°. Swirl 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet to coat and add yellow onions; season with kosher salt. Set skillet over medium heat; cook onions, stirring and scraping bottom of pan occasionally, until very soft and deep golden brown, 15–20 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are deeply browned, 25–30 minutes (if any pieces get super dark and stick to the pan, a few drops of water should dislodge them). Let cool. Brush mustard over chilled dough, then sprinkle with cayenne. Stir cheese into caramelized onion mixture and spread across crust in an even layer. Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, thinly slice both squashes, sweet potato, and red onion crosswise.

Arrange vegetables in concentric circles with rounded edges facing up, starting from outside edge, leaning slices against the crust and working your way inward. Drizzle remaining 2 Tbsp. oil over vegetables and season with kosher salt. Bake tart until edges of vegetables are browned (a few spots may even get deeply browned) and crust is golden brown, 75–90 minutes. Cook thyme and butter in a small saucepan until butter is bubbling. Brush over tart and sprinkle with sea salt.

Double-Garlic Roast Chicken With Onion Gravy 4 S E RV I N G S Garlic powder isn’t just loaded with flavor and umami, it also thickens the oil so that the herby garlicky paste stays put on the chicken.

1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken Kosher salt 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 3 Tbsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. thyme leaves 2 tsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. mild red pepper flakes or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 large red onion, cut into 8 wedges through root end ½ cup dry white wine 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth or water Place rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Pat chicken dry inside and out and season generously with salt. Mix garlic, oil, garlic powder, thyme, soy sauce, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl. Place chicken in a medium cast-iron or other ovenproof skillet. Smear garlic oil all over outside of chicken. Roast until skin is golden brown all over, 20–30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°. Continue to roast, rotating skillet if chicken is browning unevenly, until skin is crisp, leg joints wiggle easily, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of breasts registers 155° and the thickest part of legs registers at least 160°, 35–40 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to a cutting board; let rest at least 20 minutes before carving. Meanwhile, set skillet with pan juices over medium heat (wrap a dry kitchen towel around handle), add onion, and cook, stirring often, until softened and golden brown, 8–10 minutes (if the skillet looks dry, add a little more oil).

Add wine to skillet and cook, scraping up browned bits, until wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until gravy looks slightly thickened (it will be a little looser than a regular gravy), 6–8 minutes. Serve chicken with onion gravy.

Jerk Turkey Shepherd’s Pie 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S Because the pimento wood that’s used as a cooking surface during the smoking and jerking process is scarce, it’s almost impossible to produce true jerk in the United States. Parkes uses smoked paprika as well as cloves to help create the smokiness that’s essential to the jerk tradition and adds lime zest to bring a cooling and refreshing element to this one-stop-shop Thanksgiving pie. BRINE

1 cup Diamond Crystal or ½ cup plus 4½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 large onion, chopped 6 garlic cloves A small handful of thyme sprigs 3 bay leaves 2 3" cinnamon sticks 1¼ cups jerk marinade (about 10 oz.; such as Walkerswood) 1 12–14-lb. turkey, neck and giblets removed DOUGH

1¼ cups all-purpose flour ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 6 Tbsp. vegetable shortening, cut into pieces, chilled 3 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces P O TAT O E S

3 lb. Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled Kosher salt 1 cup half-and-half ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 2 tsp. finely chopped thyme 1½ tsp. finely grated lime zest Freshly ground black pepper T U R K E Y A N D ASS E M B LY

2 Scotch bonnet chiles, pierced a few times with a paring knife 1 tsp. ground cloves 1¼ cups jerk seasoning (about 10 oz.; such as Walkerswood) 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter 1–1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth or water

All-purpose flour (for surface) ½ tsp. smoked paprika Half-and-half (for brushing) Hibiscus Cranberry Sauce (for serving; see recipe) B R I N E Bring salt and 4 cups water to a boil in a 16-qt. pot, stirring until salt is dissolved. Remove from heat and add onion, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and marinade to pot. Chill, uncovered, until cold, about 1 hour. Add 6 quarts cold water to pot and carefully lower in turkey. Place a heavy plate on top of turkey to keep it submerged. Cover and chill at least 12 hours and up to 1 day. (The turkey will be more moist and flavorful if you let it brine the full time.) D O U G H Mix flour and salt in a large bowl with a fork to combine. Add shortening and butter and toss to evenly coat. Working quickly and aggressively and using a pastry blender or 2 forks, press into dry ingredients until pieces of butter and shortening are about the size of a dime (the idea is to smash the butter into the flour, creating some pieces that are flat and thin and some that are large and chunky). Drizzle 1 Tbsp. ice water over mixture and stir in with a fork. Knead dough gently in bowl until it comes together (it will still look a little dry). Turn dough out onto a work surface and knead 1 or 2 more times, pressing to incorporate shaggy edges. Press into a disk about 1" thick and wrap in plastic. Chill at least 1 hour. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled, or freeze up to 1 month. P O TAT O E S Place potatoes in a large saucepan and pour in water to cover by at least 2"; season generously with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until a paring knife easily slides through flesh, 25–35 minutes. Drain potatoes and let cool slightly. Meanwhile, bring half-and-half and butter to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise. Pass potatoes through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl. (If you don’t have either, gently mash in bowl with a potato masher.) Pour in half-and-half mixture and mix well. Stir in thyme and lime zest; season with pepper. Set aside. D O A H E A D : Potatoes (without thyme, zest, and pepper) can be made 1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

T U R K E Y A N D ASS E M B LY Line a large rimmed baking sheet with 3 layers of foil; set a wire rack inside. Remove turkey from brine and transfer to a plastic cutting board; discard brine. Pat turkey dry inside and out. Place, breast side up, on rack and tuck wings underneath. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour. Purée chiles, cloves, and 1 cup jerk seasoning in a blender. Transfer chile mixture to a small bowl; set aside. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add remaining ¼ cup jerk seasoning and whisk until smooth, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Wearing disposable food-grade gloves to protect your hands from chiles, gently separate skin from breast meat starting at neck. Spread chile mixture over breast meat underneath skin, then smear remaining chile mixture all over outside of turkey. Tie legs together with kitchen twine and pour 1 cup broth into baking sheet. Roast turkey, rotating pan halfway through, until skin is mostly golden brown, about 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300° and continue to roast, brushing with jerk butter every 30 minutes and adding ½ cup broth to pan if liquid evaporates, until an instantread thermometer inserted into the thickest part of breast registers 150°, 65–85 minutes longer. Skin should be deep golden brown and lacqueredlooking. Transfer turkey to a cutting board; let rest 2 hours. Pour juices from pan into a heatproof measuring glass. Let dough sit at room temperature 5 minutes. Roll out on a lightly floured surface to a 10½"–12" round (1½"–2" wider than pan). Place dough in a 9"-diameter pie pan or 10" cast-iron skillet; lift up edges, allowing dough to slump down into skillet. Trim any overhang and crimp edges as desired. Chill until ready to use. Carve turkey and shred meat. Measure out 5 cups (a mix of light and dark meat is good); save remaining meat for other uses. Arrange meat evenly in dough. Pour just enough pan juices over turkey to moisten (be careful not to oversaturate or your crust may be soggy). Mound potatoes over meat. Using a wet butter knife or spoon, spread to edges, covering meat completely. Using a fork, create decorative ridges in potatoes and sprinkle with paprika. Brush dough with half-and-half. Bake pie until crust is golden brown, 35–45 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes. Serve with cranberry sauce.

Hibiscus Cranberry Sauce Hibiscus is used in drinks throughout the African diaspora but most notably in Jamaica. Inspired by sorrel— a festive Caribbean punch—this sauce is sweet, tangy, earthy, and the perfect complement to the peppery profile of Jamaican jerk. Rum, allspice, and fresh ginger add a level of warmth and richness of flavor that is the signature of Caribbean cuisine. MAKES 2½ CUPS

4 1 3 1

Tbsp. unsalted butter 2" piece ginger, peeled, halved whole allspice 1-lb. bag fresh or frozen cranberries 1⅓ cups (packed) light muscovado sugar or light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. hibiscus powder Pinch of kosher salt 2 Tbsp. Jamaican rum, divided Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add ginger and allspice and cook, stirring occasionally, until butter foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes. Mix in cranberries, muscovado sugar, and ½ cup water. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until cranberries burst, 10–12 minutes. Uncover cranberries; stir in hibiscus powder, salt, and 1 Tbsp. rum. Reduce heat to low; cook, stirring occasionally, until glossy and syrupy, 16–20 minutes. (Stir in about ¼ cup water if you like a thinner sauce.) Remove from heat and stir in remaining 1 Tbsp. rum. Let cool slightly.

Flaky Cranberry Hand Pies You can use frozen cherries instead of the cranberries here; just increase the cornstarch to 4 tsp. M A K E S 12 – 14

DOUGH

1 cup plus 6 Tbsp. European-style butter (82% fat; such as Kerrygold) 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 6 Tbsp. buttermilk F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

1 8 ½ 1½ 1½

orange oz. fresh or frozen cranberries cup (100 g) granulated sugar tsp. vanilla extract tsp. cornstarch All-purpose flour (for dusting) 1 large egg 2 Tbsp. raw sugar or sanding sugar

D O U G H Cut butter into ½" pieces and freeze on a small plate 30 minutes. Pulse salt and 2 cups (250 g) flour in a food processor to combine. Remove butter from freezer and add to processor. Pulse until mixture is crumbly and butter is about pea-size, 30–35 quick pulses. Drizzle in buttermilk, then pulse until a rough ball forms (it will be crumbly). Be careful not to overwork dough. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and press into a disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 1 hour. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled, or freeze up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in refrigerator before using.

Cut a small slit in the top of each pie, brush with reserved egg, then sprinkle with raw sugar. Line a second baking sheet with parchment paper and divide pies between sheets, spacing at least 2" apart. Bake until crusts are golden brown and fillings are bubbling, 16–18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool until warm. D O A H E A D : Filling can be made 5 days ahead; keep chilled, or freeze up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in refrigerator before using. Hand pies can be baked 1 day ahead; let cool. Store airtight at room temperature.

F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY While the dough chills, make the filling. Using a vegetable peeler, remove 2 wide strips of zest from orange (avoid white pith as much as possible). Thinly slice zest lengthwise, then cut strips crosswise into very small pieces. Cut orange in half and squeeze 2 Tbsp. juice into a small saucepan. Add cranberries, granulated sugar, vanilla, and 1 tsp. orange zest; stir well. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, until cranberries are softened, 6–8 minutes. Stir cornstarch and 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to dissolve, then add slurry to cranberry mixture. Simmer, stirring, until filling thickens and looks very shiny and glossy, 30–60 seconds. Scrape into a heatproof bowl and let cool, stirring occasionally. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour. Roll out dough disk on a lightly floured surface to about ¼" thick. Using a 3"-diameter cookie cutter or glass, punch out rounds, transferring to a baking sheet as you go. You should get 20 rounds; chill until ready to use. Gather remaining dough scraps and press into a disk, then wrap in plastic and chill 20 minutes. Roll out dough disk and punch out as many more rounds as you can get (hopefully 8); arrange on another baking sheet. Whisk egg in a small bowl. Remove rounds from fridge and brush edges of each round with egg. Spoon a heaping teaspoonful of filling into the center of half of the rounds. Drape remaining rounds, egg-brushed sides down, on top and crimp edges with a fork to seal. Set remaining egg wash aside. Place pies on a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400°.

M A K E S 2 0 – 2 4 This recipe makes big cookies. To make 40–48 smaller cookies, use a No. 60 cookie scoop (about 1 Tbsp.) and bake about 10 minutes.

Pecan Pumpkin Spice Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 1½ 1 ¾ 3 1¼ 1 1¼ 1½ 1 3 ¼ 1 4 1½ 1½

Tbsp. ground cinnamon tsp. ground ginger tsp. ground nutmeg tsp. ground cloves cups (375 g) all-purpose flour tsp. baking soda tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt cups (2½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened until just slightly firm cups (packed; 300 g) light brown sugar cup (200 g) granulated sugar large eggs cup canned pumpkin purée Tbsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract oz. (112 g) semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped cups (9 oz./255 g) dark chocolate chips cups (174 g) coarsely chopped pecans

Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Mix cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves in a small bowl to make pumpkin spice. Whisk flour, baking soda, salt, and 1 Tbsp. pumpkin spice in a medium bowl; set remaining pumpkin spice aside for making pies, quick breads, or another batch of cookies. Combine butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed, scraping sides of bowl as needed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed to low and with motor running, add eggs one at a time,

mixing to incorporate after each addition before adding the next. Beat in pumpkin purée and vanilla paste. Gradually add dry ingredients and beat just until combined (be careful not to overmix). Set aside a handful or so of each of the chopped chocolate, chocolate chips, and pecans. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold remaining chopped chocolate, chocolate chips, and pecans into dough. Using a No. 20 cookie scoop (about 3 Tbsp.), drop balls of dough onto two parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing at least 4" apart. (If using a half-sheet pan, bake 2 cookies per sheet. For a full sheet, you can fit about 4.) Gently press reserved chocolate and nuts into tops of dough balls. Bake cookies, rotating pans top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden brown around the edges, 11–13 minutes (subsequent batches may take 2–3 minutes longer). Let cookies cool on baking sheets 5 minutes. Using a thin metal spatula, carefully transfer cookies to wire racks and let cool completely. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made and formed into balls 3 months ahead; freeze on baking sheets until solid, then transfer to resealable freezer bags or an airtight container. Cookies can be baked 3 days ahead; store airtight at room temperature.

Sweet Potato Cake With Salted Cream Cheese Frosting M A K E S O N E 9 " - D I A M E T E R C A K E If you prefer a less-sweet frosting, use 6 cups powdered sugar. CAKE

1½ lb. sweet potatoes (about 4 medium), scrubbed Nonstick vegetable oil spray (for pans) 3¼ cups (374 g) cake flour, plus more for pans 2 tsp. baking powder 1½ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground nutmeg ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar 1½ cups (packed; 300 g) light brown sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled 7 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 5 large eggs, room temperature

F R O S T I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

2 16-oz. packages full-fat cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, room temperature 8 cups (906 g) powdered sugar, sifted or whisked to remove lumps 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt Long orange zest strips (for serving; optional) Cook sweet potatoes in a medium pot of boiling water, stirring occasionally, until a tester inserted into centers meets no resistance, 40–45 minutes. Drain and let sit until cool enough to handle. Remove skins, transfer flesh to a medium bowl, and mash with a potato masher or fork. Let cool. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray three 9"-diameter cake pans with nonstick spray, then line bottoms with parchment paper rounds. Spray parchment and dust pans with flour, tapping out excess. Sift baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and 3¼ cups (374 g) cake flour into a large bowl (or just whisk to remove lumps). Combine granulated sugar, brown sugar, butter, oil, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until light, fluffy, and no lumps remain, about 5 minutes. Add eggs to sweet potato purée and mix well. Scrape into sugar mixture and beat to combine, scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce speed to low and with motor running, gradually add dry ingredients; mix just until incorporated. Divide batter evenly among prepared pans. Bake until cakes are slightly risen, tops are set, and a tester inserted into the centers comes out clean, 25–30 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack and let cakes cool in pans 5 minutes. Run a small knife around edges of cakes and turn out onto racks. Remove parchment and let cool completely (rounded side down). Tightly wrap cakes individually in plastic and freeze until thoroughly chilled (this will make cakes easier to frost), about 2 hours. CAKE

F R O S T I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Beat cream cheese and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment on high speed until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Add powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt and beat on low speed 30 seconds (place a kitchen towel over bowl to capture any puffs of sugar).

Increase speed to high and beat frosting 2 minutes. It should be thick and creamy. Place a cake, right side up, on a large plate or cake stand. Spread one third of frosting on top. Set another cake on top and frost with half of remaining frosting. Repeat process with remaining cake and frosting. For the cleanest slices, chill 3 hours before slicing. Top with orange zest strips just before serving if desired.

Mouthwatering Turkey With Glass Noodles 4 S E RV I N G S The heat level for chili oil can vary greatly from brand to brand. Use a sesame-based one for this recipe if possible, although any chili oil will work. If you’ve got one that’s particularly hot, go easy at first and add to taste.

5 tsp. Sichuan peppercorns 1½ tsp. white peppercorns (optional) 6 Tbsp. spicy chili crisp (preferably Lao Gan Ma) ⅓ cup chili oil 3 Tbsp. light soy sauce 3 Tbsp. unrefined peanut oil 5 tsp. black (Chinkiang) vinegar 12 oz. sweet potato starch or mung bean glass noodles 2 celery stalks, cut into thin 2"-long pieces 1 lb. leftover cooked turkey meat, shredded (about 3 cups) 1 small bunch basil, preferably Thai or Opal basil, leaves picked 1 small bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems picked ½ cup crushed salted or unsalted roasted peanuts S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle Toast Sichuan peppercorns and white peppercorns (if using) in a dry small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice mill or mortar and pestle and coarsely grind. Transfer to a medium bowl and add chili crisp, chili oil, soy sauce, peanut oil, and vinegar; whisk well. Set dressing aside. Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling water according to package directions, adding celery 2 minutes before noodles are done (celery should be crisp-tender). Drain and rinse under cold running water until cool. Shake off excess water; divide among shallow bowls. Arrange turkey over noodles. Give dressing a stir and drizzle over each bowl. Top with basil, cilantro, and nuts.

ORGANIC BY NATURE

S T E P-BYSTEPS

TIPS & TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Indentations, whether dimples or another design, are intended to keep food from sticking.

1 4

On Edge Behind every good cook is a good knife that probably needs to be sharpened b y SA R A H JA M P E L

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

1. Chinese Chef ’s Knife 8", $56; dexterrussellcutler y.com 2. Miyabi Kaizen II Santoku 7", $170; zwilling.com 3. Pet ty Utilit y Knife 6", $200; newwestknifeworks.com 4. Teton Edge Santoku 7", $300; newwestknifeworks.com 5. Mahogany Royal Blue Inox Gyuto 8.2", $150; korin.com P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Basically

3 C H O O S E YO U R S T Y L E Most knives for sale in the U.S. fall into the two groups below. The very best way to see which you prefer is to try both. 18" Walnut Magna Bar, $50; zwilling.com

1 You Don’t Need a Knife Set When you buy a knife set, you’re paying for knives you don’t need and probably won’t use. (As a vegetarian, do I really need six mediocre steak knives?) Most home cooks will be just fine with three knives: one large, one small, and one serrated. And choosing them individually lets you get exactly what’s right for you.

2 One Size Doesn’t Fit All The first step in figuring out what type of knife to buy is to think about how you cook (and how careful you are in the kitchen). If you’re aggressive—like, you’ve used your knife to hack through bone—you’ll want a Western knife that isn’t easily damaged (see No. 3). If you value sharpness and precision and often spend hours chopping, you might gravitate toward a light, sharp Japanese-made knife that keeps its edge longer. But the choice isn’t always so, ahem, cut and dried: Some great knives blur the line between the two—sharp like Japanese, durable like Western. Take a trip to a store that has expert staff, like Korin in New York or Japanese Knife Imports in L.A., or order from a website with a generous return policy and big selection like KnifeCenter (knifecenter .com) or Cutlery and More (cutleryandmore.com). 82 – NOVEMBER 2020

Japanese -Made Western-St yle

Traditional Western

Traditional Japanese knives are often single bevel (only one side is sharpened), made of carbon steel, and used by professionals. But the more widely available Western-style knives are double bevel (both sides are sharpened), made of steel that’s simple to maintain, and versatile. Many have an asymmetrical edge (one side is ground to a steeper angle than the other, i.e., 60:40 or 70:30), which adds to sharpness. Two common shapes in the U.S. are the gyuto (chef’s knife) and the shorter santoku.

Sometimes simply called German-style, these double-bevel knives originated in Western Europe. With thicker blades than Japanese knives, they can handle more pressure. The curved shape facilitates a rocking rather than slicing motion. Most edges are the same angle on both sides (i.e., 50:50), making them easier to sharpen. Unlike Japanese knives, some designs, like the Wüsthof above, have a full bolster, a metal cuff separating the heel of the blade from your hand; this adds balance but also weight.

WHY?

They’re light, super sharp, and hard, meaning they hold their edge longer (so you won’t have to sharpen them as often). They excel at precise slicing.

Made of softer steel than Japanese knives, they’re more durable. Use them for nearly any kitchen task, from halving kabocha to scoring pork belly.

WHY NOT?

Their hardness makes them brittle—they’re more prone to chipping or snapping if used improperly.

They’re heavier and less sharp than Japanese knives, and they need to be sharpened more often.

BRANDS TO LOOK FOR

Tojiro (21-cm DP Gyutou, $85; amazon.com; above left), Mac (8" MTH-80, $175; macknife.com; above right) Shun, Global, Korin, Miyabi, Togiharu, Suisin

Wüsthof (8" Epicure Cook’s Knife, $200; wusthof.com; above left), Victorinox (8" Fibrox Pro Chef’s Knife, $43; amazon.com; above right), Zwilling, Messermeister, J.A. Henckels

Photograph / Jennifer Chase

P O D C A S T

N E W E P I S O D E S A D D E D W E E K LY LISTEN ON SPOTIF Y / APPLE PODCASTS

5 Leave It to Cleaver

4 A P E T T Y K N I F E > A PA R I N G K N I F E Sure, a 3" paring knife seems like a natural companion to your chef’s knife. But the 6" petty (a.k.a. utility) knife is nimble enough to accomplish the tasks of a paring knife — peeling potatoes, segmenting citrus, trimming brussels sprouts—and then some. It’s long enough to function as a boning knife, a fillet knife, even a chef’s knife. Corey Milligan of New West KnifeWorks says it’s the gift he buys for people he doesn’t know since they’re guaranteed to find a use for it (6" Petty Utility Knife, $160; newwestknifeworks.com).

With its tall, even blade, a cleaver is just as handy for thinly slicing small radishes as for breaking down pineapples, crushing hazelnuts, quartering chickens, and transferring chopped veg to hot pans. Contributing writer MacKenzie Chung Fegan’s mom reaches for the Dexter 8" Chinese Chef’s Knife ($56; dexterrussellcutlery .com) for all tasks except cutting bread.

6 Repeat After Us: CLEAN and DRY To avoid rust, corrosion, and staining (yes, even on stainless knives!), wash and dry your knives as soon as you’re finished cooking. Keep them out of the dishwasher, which damages both the blades and the handles.

7. A S H A R P K N I F E I S A U S E F U L K N I F E

Even the Best Knife Needs Sharpening If you’re meeting resistance when you slice through a tomato or plum, your knife isn’t sharp enough—and you’re not getting the most out of it. Sure, you can pay a professional to sharpen your knife, but send it out more than once or twice a year and you’ll actually shorten its life span (the blade gets smaller each time it’s sharpened, like a haircut that doesn’t grow back). Most experts tout the whetstone (the Togiharu Two-Sided 1000/4000 Sharpening Stone, $50; korin.com, works for any style knife), which gives you the most control and reduces the chance of damage. But if “learn to use a whetstone” isn’t on your to-do list, a manual pull-through sharpener is better than nothing. Check to see if the manufacturer sells one specifically for your brand of knife; if not, ask for a recommendation.

84 – NOVEMBER 2020

Your Honing Rod Isn’t a Substitute Sharpening removes material to make a new edge. Honing maintains sharpness, offering a quick fix by realigning the existing edge. Use a honing rod (we like the Mac 8.5" White Ceramic model, $25; macknife .com) when your knife isn’t slicing as smoothly but you don’t have time to sharpen it. As soon as honing becomes ineffective, break out the whetstone, okay?

For more ingredient 101s, crystal clear cooking advice, and easygoing recipes, go to eatbasically.com.

Basically

8 Know What to Look for (and What to Ask About) Whether you’re browsing the web or shopping IRL, keep these elements in mind:

PRICE

STAINLESS STEEL

Price points vary greatly and are based on the material of the blade and handle, how it’s produced, whether the edge is finished by hand or by machine, and its appearance. But even though some knives are works of art, you can still get a quality one for under $50 without sacrificing sharpness or utility.

While carbon steel can take a finer (read: sharper) edge than stainless steel—and hold it for longer—the material is prone to oxidation and rusting; the lowestmaintenance option is stainless steel, which comes in many formulations. But remember: Stainless doesn’t mean it will never stain (see No. 6).

THE STEEL FORMULA If the manufacturer doesn’t advertise what steel it’s using (sometimes it’s etched right into the blade), the company’s not proud of it. At the very least, look for the words high carbon (which is, confusingly, different from carbon steel)— it’s an indication of hardness and sharpness.

HARDNESS

BLADE LENGTH

BLADE WIDTH

In general, the harder your knife, the sharper it can get; before buying, ask about its Rockwell hardness scale rating if it’s not already listed. According to Chad Ward, author of An Edge in the Kitchen, anything above 56 will hold its edge without dulling too quickly (FYI, Japanese knives tend to be 60-plus).

Blade length is a personal choice— many people opt for an 8" chef’s knife, but a longer model is useful for tackling hulking vegetables and cuts of meat. If you’ve got a small kitchen or tiny hands, consider a santoku, a Japanesestyle knife that’s usually no longer than 7" and has a flat cutting edge.

Wide blades are ideal for smashing (garlic, lemongrass, spices), scooping up piles of chopped stuff, and cutting through tall ingredients (melon, cabbage, a standing roast). But if you don’t have a paring/petty knife, a narrower blade could be useful for nimble tasks, like coring tomatoes or pitting peaches.

eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

can’t cook. no problem.

recipe index

sourcebook SHOPPING LIST THE BUY p.11 ESTELLE COLORED GLASS $195 for six; estellecoloredglass.com

COOKING WITH CHAEY pp.12–14 P.12 NAGATANI-EN HAKEME CLASSIC-STYLE ALL-PURPOSE DONABE $80; toirokitchen.com

THE POUR p.26 OENOPS “RAWDITIS” $30; astorwines.com MANOLIS GARALIS “TERRA AMBERA” $22; astorwines.com DOMAINE GLINAVOS “PALEOKERISIO” $15;

leisirwine.com

SWEET SPOT p.28 FOOD-GRADE SILVER LEAF $10 for 10 sheets; amazon.com

SHOP TOUR p.34 SWAHILI MODERN OLIVE WOOD SALAD SERVERS $40 EVAN BLACKWELL COMING TOGETHER PAINTING $450

A sweet end to an epic meal, P.72

MACRINA MATEO MARTINEZ MICAELA BEAN BOWL $189

BEVERAGE

Khoshaf p. 70 BREAD

Fridge Clean-Out Nabe With Mushroom Dashi p. 14 Mouthwatering Turkey With Glass Noodles p. 79 POULTRY

Garam Masala Short Rib Roast With Pistachio Crust p. 70

Double-Garlic Roast Chicken With Onion Gravy p. 76 Grilled Vinegar Turkey With Chiles and Rosemary p. 75 Jerk Turkey Shepherd’s Pie p. 77 Mouthwatering Turkey Glass Noodles p. 79 Pavochon p. 73 Tomato Chicken Coconut Curry p. 22

NOODLES

VEGE TARIAN

Coconut, Ginger, and Mushroom Noodles p. 25

Brown Butter and Sage Parathas p. 70 Pull-Apart Sour Cream and Chive Rolls p. 74 SALAD

Raw and Crispy Kale Salad With Ginger and Coconut p. 73 MAIN COURSES MEAT

Fridge Clean-Out Nabe With Mushroom Dashi p. 14 Smoked Tofu Larb With Lemongrass p. 20 Squash and Caramelized-Onion Tart p. 76 Tater Tot Egg Bake With Bitter Greens Salad p. 74 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Beet Fritters With Beet Greens Yogurt p. 18 Cornbread and Salami Dressing p. 73 Crispy Potatoes With Bay and Scallions p. 76 Grilled Leeks With Brown Butter and Spiced Hazelnuts p. 75 Smashed Green Beans With Lemony Sumac Dressing p. 72

Tahdig With Cranberries and Herbs p. 71 Winter Squash Bharta p. 72

All items available at yoursustainablehome.com

MISCELLANEOUS, CONDIMENTS

BASICALLY pp.81–85 P.81 8" CHINESE CHEF’S KNIFE

Citrus-Ginger Raita With Spice Oil p. 70 Hibiscus Cranberry Sauce p. 78 DESSERTS

Flaky Cranberry Hand Pies p. 78 Kaju Katli p. 28 Milk and Honey Pie p.72 Pecan Pumpkin Spice Chocolate Chip Cookies p. 78 Sweet Potato Cake With Salted Cream Cheese Frosting p. 79

COPAVIC ROLY POLY DECANTER $30 BARACK & MICHELLE MUG $50

$56; dexterrussellcutlery.com P.81 7" MIYABI KAIZEN II SANTOKU $170; zwilling.com P.81 6" PETTY UTILITY KNIFE

$160; newwestknifeworks.com P.81 7" TETON EDGE SANTOKU CHEF’S KNIFE $300;

newwestknifeworks.com P.81 8" MAHOGANY ROYAL BLUE INOX GYUTO $150; korin.com P.82 TOJIRO DP GYUTOU $85;

amazon.com P.82 8" EPICURE COOK’S KNIFE

$200; wusthof.com P.82 8" VICTORINOX FIBROX PRO CHEF’S KNIFE $43; amazon.com P.82 MAC MTH-80 $175;

macknife.com P.82 18" WALNUT MAGNA BAR

$50; zwilling.com bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2020 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a.volume 65, no. 9. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Mike Goss, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inkuiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email BNAcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast. com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically rekuested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.

86 – NOVEMBER 2020

P.84 TOGIHARU TWO-SIDED 1000/4000 SHARPENING STONE

$50; korin.com

TRAVEL PLANNER DISH DECODED p.32 RANGOON, 500 Prospect Pl., Brooklyn; 917-442-0100; rangoon.nyc

SHOP TOUR p.34 SUSTAINABLE HOME GOODS, 675 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta; 770-727-6794; yoursustainablehome.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

COOK THE COVER

Grilled Vinegar Turkey With Chiles and Rosemary p. 75

INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET

Design advice for real life.

Renovation guides. Before-and-after inspiration. Material sources. Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest. @getclever

archdigest.com/clever

Questionable Etiquette

Is It Ever Okay…to Skip Thanksgiving Altogether? Advice for Thanksgiving gatherings small and very small from Alex Beggs

Can I put raisins in stuffing? —MIFFED MELISSA

Once my [redacted family member] made a casserole for a church picnic that no one ate, so she brought it home. “The raisins in this are great!” my dad said, eating the leftovers. They were flies. Even THAT wasn’t a good occasion for raisins.

How do I do Thanksgiving for one without an inordinate amount of leftovers?

—KNOCKOUT KENNEDY

In an election/pandemic/ devastating fire year? YES! This is what we’ve come to.

— A L L A LO N E A N D R E A

I’ve met two people who do themed Thanksgivings. Hollywood theme, nautical. Is this weird enough to work? —MYSTIFIED MADISON

We need an answer once and for all: What time should the Thanksgiving meal be served? —HOROLOGICAL HAL

Cocktails at 5:30 p.m., dinner at 7! 10? 8:30? Is anyone going to actually listen to ME? Every family seems to have their Thanksgiving hour set in stone (Plymouth Rock? Oof). I swear the 3 p.m. diners wait an entire year to eat at their off-kilter hour. Whatever time the host says, we comply—and complain. It’s a point of contention as predictable as the mashed potato lumps. Accept both. 88 – NOVEMBER 2020

Themed Thanksgiving sounds weird, but then again, so does celebrating the verrrrrrry murky story of our nation’s founding. Maybe the best thing about Thanksgiving is the fact that we all celebrate it a little differently. I’m boiling lobsters! Are we supposed to mash together everything on the plate? –JUMBLED JOJO

Whoa, whoa, whoa, stop it right there. No. The only time these dishes should commingle is in the inexplicable, very real product that is Thanksgivingdinner-flavored candy corn.

How do I avoid a Thanksgiving Zoom? What if we just skip Thanksgiving this year? What can we do instead? —SUBSTITUTE SELENE

Sure! I love canceling plans so much that I get separation anxiety when I leave my couch. Here are some fantastic ideas for alternate Thanksgivings: •Marathon every Friends Thanksgiving episode while eating elaborate nachos. •Go for a long and lonely hike with a thermos of soup and your thoughts. •Online shop (the #deals!) until your eyes blur and your thighs burn. •See what’s up at the beach. •Light a pumpkin spice candle and summon your ancestors. •Season your cast-iron pans by making 14 batches of bacon; eat bacon. •Cry a little bit. •Find something lost. •Donate to your local food bank, duh!

—EVASIVE EDGAR

Everyone sent me this question! You don’t want to coordinate and do tech support for 26 family members while simultaneously trussing a turkey and “having a great time”? Huh, strange. I’m writing this in August, but I can sense, based on the bros at the frat house playing germ pong a few blocks away from me, that this infectious world isn’t going to be much different in November. Tell your fam you’re going to be frantically cooking all day but you can pop in to say hello for five minutes at 11:35 a.m. Set your timer for six minutes and when it goes off during the call, say, “OHMYGOSH THAT’S MY PIE!” and Shut. That. Screen.

When is it acceptable to pick up a slice of pumpkin pie and eat it like a pizza?

If you have to leave early, can you request pie to go?

—CHAOTIC CHELSEA

—RUSHED RAHM

Standing at the fridge at 7:07 a.m. in your night pajamas? Always. At the dinner table in your day pajamas? Never.

Yes, especially if you’re headed out to work. Thank you, essential workers! Hazard pay, paid time off, and pie for all. Grateful to ya.

Do you have bad manners? Find out by emailing your etiquette questions to staff.bonappetit@gmail.com.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CARI VANDER YACHT

My sister did this last year and gave rave reviews. She made ONLY her favorites (all BA recipes because she is supportive of my career): mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, cornbread casserole with chorizo, “maybe a salad?”, and cranberry-lime pie for dessert. That’s right—no turkey. She halved everything but the pie. Let this inspire you.

Is it appropriate to catapult spoonfuls of mashed potatoes at relatives as a punishment for their bad behavior?

TO M ATO E S