Acclaimed for its exquisite design and revolutionary cooking precision, the Monogram Professional Range is redefining luxury appliances one detail at a time. Elevate Everything.
March VO LU M E 67 N U M B E R 2
HELLO, BROTHY PA S TA W I T H MISO-BUTTER TURNIPS.
9 The Buy A desktop coffee brewing setup that keeps Jenna AdrianDiaz caffeinated. 10 Family Meal Spring forward with garlicky puttanesca, jalapeño-chicken burgers, and more easy dinner recipes from Ali Slagle’s debut cookbook. 20 The Getaway Don’t sleep on Tucson, a vibrant cultural and culinary oasis in the Sonoran Desert. BY JACKIE TRAN
2 – MARCH 2022
26 Shop Tour Denver’s Tocabe Indigenous Marketplace gives online shoppers fresh ways to cook with Native ingredients. BY ALLYSON REEDY
28 All on the Table Novelist Jessamine Chan shares the cookies that helped lift the pressures of new motherhood. 34 We’re Into It Executive editor Sonia Chopra shares her obsessions, from chic ceramics to West Indian hot sauce.
36 The Little Things Vintage and customdesigned curios make Houston restaurant March one of a kind. BY ALEX BEGGS
38 Questionable Etiquette How, when, and what to snack on at the stadium come baseball season. BY ALEX BEGGS
40 Speedy Does It Lean on a handful of pantry staples for quick and flavorpacked meals you’ll want on repeat. BY AMIEL STANEK
48 How to Hot Pot Chef and restaurateur Eric Sze breaks down his favorite way to prepare—and share—the almighty hot pot. BY ELYSE INAMINE
60 Baking Bold and Beautiful March can be dreary (oh, how we know), but with recipes for an elegant matcha mochi cake and rose-pistachio knafeh, your desserts certainly won’t be.
70 The Power of Potlikker With Carla Hall A staple of Southern cooking, potlikker is not just a byproduct—it’s an infinitely adaptable ingredient that acts as a base for these six tasty recipes. BY ANTARA SINHA
81 Basically All roads (read: leftovers and backof-the-pantry finds) lead to a delicious pot of homemade soup if you have the right map. Here it is! BY CAROLINE LANGE
88 Dream Dinner Party Downton Abbey creator Julian Fellowes knows a thing or two about hosting a soiree. BY DAWN DAVIS
IN EVERY ISSUE 6 editor’s letter 86 recipe index
ON THE COVER
Chocolate-Matcha Butter Mochi Cake (for recipe, see p. 66). Photograph by Emma Fishman. Food Styling by Pearl Jones. Prop Styling by Stephanie Yeh. Hand lettering by Na Kim.
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH.
P. 76
©J&JCI 2021
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Editor ’s Letter
In Pots (and Sweets) We Trust we have been playfully referring to this month’s magazine as the Pot Issue. Not pot as in cannabis! But rather a reference to the fact that so many of the belly-warming recipes in this issue come out of a big steaming pot. First we turn the spotlight on potlikker, that residual goodness left behind after you boil greens or beans. In “The Power of Potlikker With Carla Hall” (page 70), the inventive Southernborn chef shares how she uses one base to flavor two recipes each, for a total of three potlikkers and six recipes. There is little I like more than a two-for-one deal, so I can’t wait to try the IN THE OFFICE
WHAT I’M LOVIN G Chef Jeremy Ford wows at Stubborn Seed in Miami Beach
6 – MARCH 2022
I wouldn’t usually order oysters and foie gras, but it was a special night. Gooseberry jam, white chocolate, candied peanuts, and brioche undercut the richness of the foie gras.
Smoked Paprika and Sun-Dried Tomato Potlikker out of which both Braised Chicken Thighs With Olives and Herbs and Brothy Pasta With Miso-Butter Turnips can be created. We also have an informative piece in “How to Hot Pot” (page 48), a method of communal DIY dining common in East and Southeast Asian cultures. Chef Eric Sze not only gives us the hows and whys but also recipes for both a vegan herbal mushroom broth and a rich beef one. If you love cooking but are a little kitchenfatigued and want to economize your time, check out “Speedy Does It” (page 40), in which we use high heat to build huge flavors fast. As you can imagine there is a lot of talk of cookbooks in our proverbial halls (a.k.a. Zoom calls), and occasionally it seems everyone is in love with the same one. This month the brilliantly titled I Dream of Dinner (So You Don’t Have To) by Ali Slagle is a house favorite. Recipes from that book have been adapted for our Family Meal section (page 10). And if the only thing you find inspiring about dinner is dessert, get lost in the sweet Technicolor dream world our test kitchen editors created (page 60). From our cover darling, the ChocolateMatcha Butter Mochi Cake, to zingy Passion Fruit Bars, the recipes in “Baking Bold and Beautiful” are ready to do battle with the it’s-still-winter blues.
DAW N DAV I S edi t or in chi ef @bonappetitdawn on instagram
Kusshi oysters come topped with a sourapple mignonette, sake granita, marigolds, and herb oil. Arrive early so you can start with a fun cocktail, like the Negroni à la Ford with mezcal and chocolate.
PHOTOGRAPHS: EMMA FISHMAN (POSSETS); JULIAN COUSINS (STUBBORN SEED). FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES (POSSETS). PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH (POSSETS).
Guava-Grapefruit Possets are a low-effort, high-reward dessert. P. 65
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LO W - E F F O R T, H I G H - R E WA R D DINNERS
INDIGENOUS PA N T RY M U S T - H AV E S
p . 10
p. 26
R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w
Caffeine Kick 3-cup Classic Chemex, $40; williams-sonoma.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN
Sowden Bottle, $35; shop.cooperhewitt.org
There’s no better workday pick-me-up than excellent coffee. But during the winter I won’t brave wind tunnels or even a drafty foyer for it. My tiny desk-friendly pour-over station means I don’t have to. The Chemex makes 16 ounces, or two-ish thermoses, of coffee with a generous splash of milk—just what I need to refocus and reset—and the Fellow kettle’s precise temperature dial and elegant gooseneck let me baby my beans to my neuroses’ content. It takes just seconds to pour fresh brew into Hay’s sleek insulating Sowden thermos. After a few sips I’m caffeinated and composed. —JENNA ADRIAN-DIAZ
Fellow Stagg EKG Electric Ket tle, $159; market.bonappetit.com
MARCH 2022 – 9
Family Meal
Have a taste of Ali Slagle’s forthcoming book, I Dream of Dinner, with juicy chicken-bacon burgers and more This salsa is great on any protein, salad, or grain, even tor tilla chips.
SCALLIONS ARE LIKE
a good friend—available, adaptable, and always a pleasure to see. In her debut cookbook, I Dream of Dinner (So You Don’t Have To), out April 12, recipe developer Ali Slagle shares low-effort, high-reward recipes that keep weeknight cooking from getting redundant by using different techniques for common ingredients like the humble scallion. In Slagle’s recipe for Roasted Roots With Green Salsa (page 12), scallions are roasted alongside carrots and sweet potatoes, adding smoky char and depth to a fresh chunky tomatillo salsa. — C H A L A T Y S O N T S H I T U N D U 10 – M A R C H 2 0 2 2
P H OTO G R A P H S BY I S A Z A PATA
Family Meal
Roasted Roots With Green Salsa Don’t ditch your carrot tops—they add earthiness to the bright salsa that adorns these tender carrots and sweet potatoes. If your carrots came without greens, add cilantro instead
4 S E RV I N G S
3 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 lb.), scrubbed, cut into ½"-thick wedges 8 small carrots with tops (about 1 lb.), tops reserved, scrubbed 5 scallions, roots trimmed 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1. Place a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 450°. Place sweet potatoes, carrots, and scallions on a baking sheet. Drizzle a little oil over, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Divide vegetables between 2 baking sheets if cramped and spread out into an even layer. Roast until tender and browned, 15–25 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, coarsely chop reserved carrot tops (you want about ½ cup) and place in a medium bowl. Add tomatillos, chiles, lime juice, and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Season salsa with salt and pepper and stir to combine (it will loosen as it sits). 3. Cut charred scallions into small pieces, add to salsa, and stir to combine. Divide sweet potatoes and carrots among plates and top with salsa and lots of cheese.
No tomatillos? Slagle suggests cucumbers, corn, or raw zucchini as a replacement.
12 – M A R C H 2 0 2 2
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 oz. tomatillos (about 5), husks removed, rinsed, coarsely chopped (about 2 cups) 1–2 green chiles (such as serrano or jalapeño), finely chopped ¼ cup fresh lime juice Cotija cheese, ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta), or feta (for serving)
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Family Meal
Weeknight Puttanesca Here pasta gets cooked directly in the tomato-rich broth for a delightfully salty stew, chock-full of capers, anchovies, and Kalamata olives
1. Cook garlic, 2 anchovies, and ⅓ cup oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium heat, stirring and smashing anchovies with a wooden spoon, until garlic starts to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes. Add olives, tomato paste, capers, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until tomato paste turns a shade darker, about 3 minutes. 2. Add 4 cups water to pot, increase temperature to high, and bring to a boil. Add pasta and spinach, tearing leaves into smaller pieces as you go. Stir to combine, then reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring often to keep pasta from sticking, until cooked through, 10–12 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 anchovies and 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium. Add panko and a pinch of red pepper flakes and salt and cook, stirring often and breaking anchovies apart, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. 4. Divide pasta among bowls and top with panko mixture.
14 – M A R C H 2 0 2 2
4 S E RV I N G S
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, divided ⅓ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped 6 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste
3 Tbsp. drained capers ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, plus more for panko 8 oz. small pasta (such as ditalini, orzo, or mini shells; about 1½ cups) 5 oz. baby spinach (about 4½ cups) ½ cup panko
The anchovy breadcrumbs are optional but highly recommended.
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Family Meal
Chicken-Bacon Smash Burgers Cooking these mouthwatering chicken burgers directly in bacon fat adds flavor and juiciness to the patty, while jalapeño and red onion bring a delightful kick of heat
MAKES 4
1 2 4 8
lb. ground chicken tsp. vegetable oil hamburger buns bacon slices (not thick-cut), halved crosswise, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced, divided
1 jalapeño, very thinly sliced, divided Ketchup (for serving)
1. Working the meat as little as possible, roll chicken into 4 meatballs (4 oz. each); press down slightly to make tops flat. 2. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Working in 2 batches, toast hamburger buns, cut sides down, until golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to plates. 3. Add half of the bacon to same skillet and cook until browned and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. Place 4 pieces on top of 2 of the bottom bun. 4. Season 2 meatballs generously with salt and pepper. Place them far apart in skillet. Using a spatula, smash meatballs down as thin as you can. Top each with about a quarter of the onion and the jalapeño; press into meat. Cook patties, untouched, until browned underneath, about 2 minutes. Flip over and cook until patties are cooked through and onion is golden, about 1 minute. Transfer patties to bottom buns with bacon. Repeat process with remaining bacon, chicken, onion, and jalapeño to make 2 more burgers. 5. Close up hamburgers and serve with ketchup alongside.
Smashing burger patties allows them to cook quickly and evenly.
16 – M A R C H 2 0 2 2
Family Meal
Swordfish With Asparagus and Beans This quick low-lift recipe is super flexible: Try it with whatever fatty fish (like mahi-mahi or salmon) and crunchy veggies (like green beans or snap peas) you have on hand
4 S E RV I N G S
Zest and juice of 2 lemons 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ cup plus 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 1"-thick swordfish or mahi-mahi steaks (about 1½ lb. total), patted dry, cut into 1" cubes
1 lb. asparagus, woody stems trimmed, cut into ½" pieces 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 2 15-oz. cans small white beans, (such as navy or Great Northern), rinsed ½ cup tender herbs (such as mint, dill, basil, and/or parsley), plus more for serving
1. Whisk lemon zest, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, and ½ cup oil in a small bowl to combine; season vinaigrette with salt and pepper.
3. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium. Cook fish, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and flesh flakes easily with a fork, 5–7 minutes. 4. Add fish and ½ cup herbs to bean mixture and stir once. Drizzle with more vinaigrette and season with more salt and pepper. Just before serving, scatter more herbs on top.
18 – M A R C H 2 0 2 2
Swordfish holds together when cooked quickly without dr ying out.
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. RECIPES EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM I DREAM OF DINNER (SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO) BY ALI SLAGLE. COPYRIGHT © 2022 BY ALEXANDRA SLAGLE. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER.
2. Season fish all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Add asparagus, garlic, beans, and ¼ cup water; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until asparagus is crisp-tender and beans are warmed through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl; stir in 2 Tbsp. vinaigrette. Reserve skillet.
Th e G e t a w a y
Desert Daze
Don’t sleep on Tucson, the cultural melting pot of the Southwest by JAC K I E T R A N
P H OTO G R A P H S BY C ASS I DY A R A I Z A A N D J AC K I E T R A N
Clockwise from lef t: Sonoran Desert views; mural by local artist Jessica Gonzales; La Indita’s chicken mole 20 – MARCH 2022
“
— Divia Thani
The World Made Local
The Get awa y
Tucson I’ve spent the past three decades savoring the city’s distinctive combination of aromas and flavors. First comes mesquite —the robust, earthy smoke from this native wood triggers memories of impromptu bonfires and family gatherings with grilled skirt steaks. Second, thin, lardy Sonoran flour tortillas, which make all other tortillas feel like dry, puffy flatbread. Then there are the roadside burritos: Never bursting with fillers, they showcase tender grilled or braised meats that you dress according to your taste. (For me that means just a spritz of lime, a pinch of onion and cilantro, and a touch of fiery chile de árbol salsa.) This mountain-ringed desert city is home to a diverse population of Native communities, immigrants, and college kids. Strolling downtown you might spot a day-tripper from Hermosillo slurping a bowl of miso ramen at a picnic table or a Vietnamese guy in a cowboy hat (me) sipping mezcal cocktails at a dimly lit bar. Whatever you’re seeking, you’ll probably find it here —and then some. AS A TUCSON NATIVE
THE ESSENTIALS
The Hot Spots
• Coctelería La Palma Mariscos y Mas
• 5 Points Market & Restaurant • Ruiz Hot Dogs Los Chipilones • The Citizen Hotel • La Indita • Sushi on Oracle • Barrio Charro • Mercado San Agustin • Noodleholics • El Taco Rustico • Tanque Verde Ranch • Tito & Pep • Tumerico When to Visit
Spring. The weather isn’t triple digits yet, so you can soak in the clear skies and blooming desert flowers. September also works beautifully with lush postmonsoon greenery. Where to Stay
The Downtown Clifton, a hotel with a notable in-house restaurant and bar, is walking distance to Tucson’s cocktail corridor on Scott Avenue. What to Bring Back
Tacos from Seis Kitchen at Mercado San Agustin 22 – MARCH 2022
Coctelería La Palma Mariscos y Mas Despite the fact that Tucson is in the desert, fresh Mexican seafood is readily accessible due to the city’s proximity to the Sea of Cortez. Order a platter of aguachile to embrace the natural sweetness of plump Mexican shrimp with serrano peppers, creamy avocado, and cooling cucumber in a limey salsa.
Monsoon Chocolate bars and bonbons, flour tortillas from Tortilleria Doña Esperanza
5 Points Market & Restaurant This neighborhood brunch spot serves breakfast (I’ll occasionally indulge in a 10 a.m. mezcal cocktail with my egg sandwich, just because I can) and irresistible daily baked goods such as rye sourdough sticky buns with a hazelnut, apple, and cardamom filling and brown sugar caramel. Even salads stand out thanks to super fresh produce from local vendors. Shop the market for products to take home, like prickly pear nectar from Arizona Cactus Ranch and mesquite chocolate chip cookie mix from AZ Baking Company. Ruiz Hot Dogs Los Chipilones Tucson’s beloved Sonoran hot dog is wrapped in bacon and topped with diced tomato, raw onion, grilled onion, pinto beans, mayo, mustard, and green salsa on a slightly sweet bun. With so many toppings, execution varies dramatically. While El Güero Canelo was the place that earned the James Beard
Th e G e t a w a y
Sizzling garlic noodles at Noodleholics
America’s Classics Award, Ruiz is my favorite thanks to its toasted (rather than steamed) bun and Goldilocks-perfect ratio of toppings. Bonus points for the blistered yellow pepper on the side. The Citizen Hotel This self-described wine hotel features complimentary daily tastings on the mezzanine, a collab with Sand-Reckoner Vineyards, which is based in Willcox (the heart of Arizona’s blossoming wine scene, where more than 20 wineries take advantage of the area’s ideal elevation, climate, and soil to grow 74 percent of the state’s grapes). The historic building, which once housed Tucson’s first newspaper press, features only 10 rooms, all named after wine varietals that thrive in the high Sonoran Desert Region. And yes, there are wine caddies in every bathtub. La Indita While Arizona has two of the largest Native American reservations in the country (the Navajo Nation and the Tohono
O’odham Nation), only a handful of eateries offer Native American cuisine. At La Indita matriarch María García shares recipes from her and her husband’s Tarascan and Tohono O’odham heritages. The velvety chicken mole sings with both fruitiness and bitterness from Chiapas cacao beans. The Tarascan taco features an unusual blend of spinach and nuts yet feels nostalgic at first bite. Beans and red chile beef top crispychewy fry bread for the massive Indian taco. Sushi on Oracle For years I stayed away from this restaurant because of the uninspired name—it’s a sushi restaurant on Oracle Road. Upon my first visit I realized how grave my mistake was. The lo-fi hip-hop, jazz covers of Ghibli soundtracks, and selection of Japanese craft beers immediately set it apart from anything I’d encountered. While master sushi chef Yoshinobu “Yoshi” Shiratori is the head honcho, I ended up a regular because of the
Shop and dine at Mercado San Agustin
DESERT DESTINATIONS Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum Don’t skip this combination zoo, botanical garden, aquarium, and natural history museum, where a mountain lion, a red-tailed hawk, and an ocelot live in their native settings. Sabino Canyon Hike the scenic trail to Seven Falls for a moderate trek, but take waterproof shoes for the waterfalls. Mission Garden Learn about the layered history of Sonoran agriculture at this fascinating living museum. Saguaro National Park Don’t hug the saguaros, but admire their abundance alongside the stunning mountain sunset view. Arizona Zipline Adventures Check out the landscape from above, then eat at Peppersauce Kitchen, where you can bring your own beer and build your own burger.
friendly Navajo sushi chef, Tommy Begay III. I tend to go during off-hours so I’m less of a distraction when I ask Tommy questions about what ingredients he’s been experimenting with, like housemade yuzu kosho and smoked salmon. There’s no avant-garde fusion here, though, just superb sushi in a chill environment that embraces both the old school and the new. Barrio Charro Nationally acclaimed Tucson legends Don Guerra and Carlotta Flores come together to pay homage to heirloom White Sonora wheat, one of the oldest varieties in America. Guerra’s fresh-baked bread (which draws lines around the block at his bakery) combines effortlessly with Flores’s Northern Mexican family recipes (her Tia Monica invented the chimichanga) in a powerhouse lineup of excellent sandwiches. If you don’t mind sending bread through an airport scanner, absolutely take a loaf home with you—they freeze quite well. MARCH 2022 – 23
Th e G e t a w a y
s a vo r t h e BAHAMAS
Let your culinary adventures begin with celebrity chef cuisine and authentic Bahamian flavors designed for every palate.
Apple cobbler in the wood-fired oven at Tanque Verde Ranch
Mercado San Agustin Explore a wide collection of restaurants and shops in this open-air Spanish colonial-style courtyard or down the block in the market’s shipping-container annex. Seis Kitchen reaches beyond Sonora to a variety of Mexican regions; all dishes are made from scratch, including its Yucatán-inspired poc chuc, the only chicken taco I’ve ever loved. La Estrella Bakery bakes traditional pan dulce daily; grab a pumpkin empanada (available year-round!) to go and pair it with a superb cup of coffee from Presta Coffee Roasters down the hall. On Thursdays there’s a farmers market rich with local produce. Noodleholics This is my personal favorite restaurant in town; it has a noodle bowl for all of my moods: spicy Sichuan beef soup when I’m feeling feisty, vinegary dry Guilin rice noodles when I need to cool down, and sizzling garlic noodles when I can’t make up my mind. I’ll also occasionally indulge in a crispy half duck and sides of addictive chili oil dumplings, salt and pepper wings, and potent garlic cucumbers. No gimmicks here, just delectably slurpable Chinese food in a contemporary fast-casual environment. El Taco Rustico A few years ago I ventured for the first time to Tucson’s Tohono O’odham Swap Meet, a sort of outdoor flea market bursting with Mexican street food options. Then I went back again, for eight consecutive weekends. While I made it a point to try different food stands
each time, chef Juan Almanza’s open mesquite fire never failed to lure me in. The swap meet sadly closed at the start of the pandemic, but Almanza happened to sign the lease for a brick-and-mortar restaurant weeks before the closure. Try the slow-grilled carne asada; the costillas, aromatic with mesquitesinged beef; or the tripas, with their tender chew, addictive crunch, and house red salsa. Last but not least, the quesabirria—unctuous cuts of beef braised all night in an intensely fragrant chile broth, which comes full circle as the dipping jus for these crispy cheesy tacos. Tanque Verde Ranch If you want a quintessential Southwestern cowboy experience, this dude ranch provides it with unmatched polish. While it’s a popular spot for weddings and private dinners, you can also pop by for prickly pear margaritas in the saloon or join the outdoor Cowboy Cookout on Wednesday and Saturday nights for grilled meats and live country music. Stay the night if you want first dibs at riding a horse among the saguaros in the morning. Lodging ranges from cozy salas to luxurious haciendas with fireplaces and sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. Tito & Pep Whenever friends ask me where to take out-of-towners, I point them to this cozy neighborhood restaurant. While the menu features influences ranging from Japan to the Levant, the flavors are distinctly Tucson thanks to the mesquite-firecentric kitchen and hyper-local ingredients like quince from Mission Garden, a local living agricultural museum. Order all the small plates to share and definitely save room for the sublime passion fruit panna cotta. Tumerico I’m not a vegan or vegetarian, but I am a loyal customer at this excellent plant-based Latin restaurant. When I arrive, chef Wendy Garcia regularly greets me with a hug. Her warmth and vibrance come through in her fiery jackfruit al pastor tacos, red chili nopalitos, and huevos rancheros. The ever-changing blackboard menu has never disappointed me—and I’ve yet to find a better hangover cure in town.
a world of
WO N D E R awaits
the best journeys are measured in memories, not miles.
AtlantisBahamas.com/BA 8 7 7. 5 5 3 . 6 9 2 3
S h o p To u r
Uplifting Native Heritage Driven by a “Native first” philosophy, Tocabe Indigenous Marketplace co-owner Ben Jacobs, a member of Osage Nation, is putting the ingredients used at his Denver restaurants into many more hands i nter vie w by A L LYS O N R E E DY
Ramona Farms Heirloom Black Tepary Beans “These Sonorangrown beans are unlike any other. They have to simmer for up to six hours, but you can’t overcook them—they retain their bite and creaminess and are super nutrientpacked.” $10
Spirit Lake Maple Syrup “If you’re from a maple syrup area, you know what real maple syrup should taste like: caramelly toffee but not overly sweet. This is true traditional syrup. Once you have it, you don’t go back; you can taste the nature within it.” $12
Find more from Jacobs (lef t) and co-owner Matt Chandra at shoptocabe.com
“The Yocha Dehe tribe near Napa Valley grows incredible olives to make this earthy dark green oil. It’s not a precolonial ingredient, but we support all Native producers.” SÉKA HILLS EXTRA VIRGIN ARBEQUINA O L I V E O I L , $ 14 26 – MARCH 2022
“ This was our very first motto, and it’s a fan favorite for sure. ‘No reservations needed’ is a pun on restaurant reservations— and a political statement.” TOCABE N O R E S E R VAT I O N S T-SHIRT, $25
Sakari Cedar Smoked Salt “Spring Alaska Schreiner of the Valdez Native Tribe forages for the cedar leaves used to smoke this sea salt, which has the most amazing fragrance and taste. I use it at home as a smoky finishing salt.” $12 P H OTO G R A P H S BY PAU L M I L L E R
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A l l o n t h e Ta b l e
These cookies are perfect for nursing mothers—and just as delicious for ever yone else!
I thought I had to break myself to feed my baby. Then I found a gentler way B y J E S SA M I N E C H A N
28 – MARCH 2022
my first weeks of motherhood, but it’s too embarrassing to publish. I’m sitting on a folding chair at the top of the stairs in a narrow hallway. The TV tray in front of me holds a pile of Chinese food. I’m pouting, my body curled small with my arms crossed tight, posed like a kid in time-out. My parents, who’d come to Philadelphia to help with the baby, wanted me to follow the postpartum Chinese principles of confinement or “zuo yue zi,” which, according to my father, T H E R E ’S A P H O T O T H AT C A P T U R E S
P H OTO G R A P H S BY I S A Z A PATA
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES
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A l l o n t h e Ta b l e
During this period of rest, a new mother is fed special foods, such as rich chicken soup perfumed with ginger and wine or bone broths laced with plump red dates.
translates from Mandarin to “sitting still indoors for a month.” During this period of rest, a new mother is fed special foods, such as rich chicken soup perfumed with ginger and wine or bone broths laced with plump red dates. The meals aim to promote blood flow, restore qi, and most important for me, increase milk production. My C-section had left me bedridden, so I was stuck upstairs, eagerly awaiting the exquisite dishes my father prepared. But my appetite while nursing far outpaced my father’s cooking. I craved filling, starchy sweets, like chocolate babka from the local bakery. I felt so loved but so hungry. And despite my family’s efforts, confinement hadn’t solved my milk problem. In the hospital I’d learned that my C-section had slowed the natural process of lactation. As a result I wasn’t producing enough milk for my daughter to gain weight. Every two hours I nursed and pumped, praying my body would cooperate. My inadequate supply drew the attention of a parade of medical personnel—especially the lactation consultant who, along with a litany of corrections, matter-of-factly noted my baby’s shallow latch and how I wasn’t holding her properly. The consultant meant well, but I was crushed. Due to pregnancy-related carpal tunnel syndrome, my arms and hands felt electrified with pain, so even holding my baby was excruciating. Without the right latch, my daughter wouldn’t get enough nutrients from my milk. If she didn’t get enough nutrients, I’d have to supplement with formula. And if I didn’t agree to use formula, I might need to leave her at the hospital until she reached a healthy weight. I wanted to scream. But I was too anxious and sleep-deprived to do even that. 30 – MARCH 2022
Nothing had gone according to plan. I didn’t breathe through my contractions. I didn’t surrender to the pain. I didn’t have a natural birth. And now I couldn’t provide my baby with the milk she needed to thrive. I’d arrived at motherhood consumed with big-picture worries: whether I’d raise a confident daughter, what values I’d impart, if I’d have time to write. I hadn’t expected to fail so soon. Going home without her wasn’t an option. That night I cranked the breast pump to its highest setting, willing myself to ignore the pain. I didn’t care about hurting myself. If they needed me to try harder, I’d keep trying until I broke my body.
t
HE EFFORTLESS
breastfeeding journey is rare. According to a study by Pediatrics, only 8 percent of women nurse easily within the first days of motherhood. Yet no one at the hospital mentioned the commonness of my experience. Similarly, my parents—despite their good intentions—didn’t explain why confinement was beneficial or necessary. “Sitting the month” is an opportunity to convalesce after the trauma of birth, to be doted upon and protected. You aren’t supposed to feel trapped. On the flip side, new mothers in America are often characterized as tireless superwomen who “do it all.” While I understood this to be a fantasy too, I still wanted to be capable and independent. Already hemmed in by the rules of postsurgical recovery, I didn’t want any more limits. I yearned to make decisions for myself, to discover my own maternal instincts. Though I’d brought my daughter home, her weight was still being monitored, along with my milk supply. So I rotated through a flurry of homeopathic tricks. I drank mother’s milk tea until I reeked of fenugreek. I increased my calorie intake until I was consuming enough food for a family of five. When none of that worked, I did what anyone does in times of stress—I turned to the internet. I needed to find a different kind of stillness, on my own terms. Deep in mommy-blog-land, I discovered lactation cookies: chocolaty oatmeal biscuits made with magical milkstimulating brewer’s yeast. I’m prediabetic, so sweets of any kind are rare
delights. Luckily enough, my sister found a recipe that used low-sugar ingredients like figs and agave, plus sprouted quinoa, flaxseed meal, and coconut oil. She baked a couple of batches, shipped them over, and soon I had a stash to last for weeks. Each morning I hopped off the hamster wheel of newborn care long enough to eat a cookie. After changing diapers, nursing, and pumping in the afternoons, I ate another. The palm-size treats tasted nutty, rich, decadent. With this gentle ritual, I could savor a moment alone, just for myself, relishing the hope and pleasure it provided. Whether it was the cookies, pumping, or time, during my baby’s first month home, my milk increased. My daughter’s latch improved. She became plump. I stopped feeling guilty about supplementing with formula. My strength returned. I started taking walks. Eventually, the pain in my body subsided and I held my daughter easily. Perhaps the solution had been there all along, in the maternity ward or at the top of the stairs in my narrow hallway. Instead of doubling down when I felt pressure, I could stop pushing and let go. Accept rest as the gift that it was. Be gentle, by doing something as simple as eating cookies. I nursed my daughter for the last time on the evening of her first birthday. I dimmed the lights in her room and cradled her, feeling triumphant but knowing I’d miss this singular closeness. How strange and difficult and wondrous it had been to feed her from my body, to have her need me, to provide. Her breathing slowed. Her hands relaxed. As her velvety cheek pressed against me, she closed her eyes and drank.
Chan’s debut novel, ‘ The School for Good Mothers,’ is out now.
Lactation Cookies M A K E S 12
Loosely inspired by Chan’s cookies, these chewy, chocolaty marvels are delicious, whether you’re lactating or not. This recipe features three key ingredients: flaxseed meal, oats, and brewer’s yeast, all reputed to increase milk supply. Brewer’s yeast has a bitter edge but melds seamlessly into each bite thanks to cinnamon, chocolate, shredded coconut, and dried figs. ⅔ ¼ ¼ ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 1
cup (83 g) all-purpose flour cup (35 g) brewer’s yeast cup (26 g) flaxseed meal tsp. ground cinnamon tsp. baking soda tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt cup (1 stick) unsalted butter cup (100 g) granulated sugar cup (packed; 100 g) light brown sugar large egg
32 – MARCH 2022
tsp. vanilla extract cups (120 g) old-fashioned oats cup dried figs, chopped, or raisins cup sweetened or unsweetened shredded coconut 6 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped, divided 2 Tbsp. sliced almonds Flaky sea salt
1 1½ ½ ⅓
Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 325°. Whisk flour, brewer’s yeast, flaxseed meal, cinnamon, baking soda, and kosher salt in a medium bowl to combine. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in another medium bowl until combined and creamy, about 1 minute. Add egg and vanilla extract and beat until incorporated and smooth, about 30 seconds. Add dry ingredients and mix on low speed until just combined, about 15 seconds. Add oats,
figs, coconut, and 5 oz. chocolate and mix just until evenly distributed. Cover bowl and chill dough 30 minutes. Using a #16 cookie scoop (about ¼ cup), portion out cookies and divide between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing 3" apart. (Do not flatten; cookies will spread as they bake.) Press almonds and remaining 1 oz. chocolate into cookies, dividing evenly; sprinkle with sea salt. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until edges are firm and golden brown but centers are still soft, 18–22 minutes. Let cookies cool on baking sheets at least 15 minutes before eating. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made and portioned 3 months ahead; freeze on baking sheets until solid, then tightly wrap. Bake cookies about 2 minutes longer than in recipe. Cookies can be baked 1 week ahead; store airtight at room temperature.
ILLUSTRATION BY HAZEL ZAVALA
A l l o n t h e Ta b l e
Photograph / Jennifer Chase
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We ’re I n t o I t
Countertop Ceramics and Fragrant Candles Executive editor Sonia Chopra shares her at-home obsessions
Give It a Rest Never thought I’d call a spoon rest elegant, but here we are. These carved sgraffito ceramics from D.C.–based Kuzeh bring order and beauty to my kitchen. $38; kuzehpottery.com
Spice Up Your Life I like a heavy hot sauce, and many here in the U.S. are a little too light or limey for me. This warming West Indian Curry sauce is what I want to eat on just about anything. $10; shaquandawillfeedyou.com
Let’s Toast! Everyone in my family owns this Panasonic FlashXpress toaster oven. It’s the best kitchen appliance out there. I use mine to roast veggies, reheat leftovers, and even bake cakes. $170; amazon.com
Accessorize the Table Hand-block-printed in Rajasthan, India, these colorful linen napkins are so pretty I keep ordering them as gifts—and then deciding to keep them for myself. $32; shopsundaymonday.com
Flower Power I am always looking for candles that freshen up my kitchen without making it smell fake. The light floral scent of this Gulab candle smells like rosewater: clean and not at all overpowering. $30; shopkishmish.com
Morning Ritual I’m from the South, so I try to support brands across the region; a favorite is East Fork in Asheville, NC. The mugs are perfect: I love them for their smooth heft and beautiful hues ranging from amaro to panna cotta. $38; eastfork.com
34 – MARCH 2022
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY DA M I E N C U Y P E R S
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY KUZEH POTTERY (SPOON REST); COURTESY PANASONIC (TOASTER OVEN); COURTESY KISHMISH (CANDLE); COURTESY SHAQUANDA’S HOT PEPPER SAUCE; COURTESY SUNDAY MONDAY (NAPKIN); COURTESY EAST FORK POTTERY (MUG)
See ever ything I’m cooking and eating on Instagram @soniachopra
Th e L i t t l e Th i n g s
Houston, We Have a Gorgeous New Restaurant From the purse stools to the exit signs, every detail at March caught our attention by ALEX BEGGS
S U D D E N LY,
June Rodil realized that the exit signs in March, a new fine dining restaurant in Houston, were ugly. Or maybe just that they could be beautiful. So she worked with the design team at Studio Robert McKinley to procure custom exit signs based on vintage ones (you know, when fonts were cooler). Then she got the new signs retrofitted to meet safety requirements—for that warm, up-to-code glow. When I dined there last year, I thought they were the prettiest exit signs I’d ever seen. Every detail at March has been so carefully considered that Rodil, a partner and master sommelier, laughs at herself when she tells me the lengths she went to find the perfect bathroom scent. But details matter! Especially when you’re trying to craft the most elegant, memorable meal in town, one that transports diners to the Mediterranean, even if they can see the strip mall and CBD store on Westheimer Road out the window. (The unobscured view is intentional.) I was stunned by the food, the service, and the Champagne buckets. I wanted to steal the water glasses and run away with the porthole of pink vermouth. But I didn’t! Instead, I asked Rodil to share their secrets.
The Tables—and Purse Stools Industrial designer Hayley Riccio, who’s married to March chef and partner Felipe Riccio, devised dining room tables with tops that unscrew like giant lazy Susans. Showercap-style white tablecloths fit on them snugly to create a clean, modern look without any drapery. And whaddya know, Rodil’s husband, Aaron, is an industrial designer too. He created the purse stools that give everyone a place to stash their phone…and maybe even forget about it for a few hours. P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O DY H O R TO N
The Trippy Tiles Appetizers are served on Portuguese Surrealejos tiles in the lounge. The playful tiles—some with a kaleidoscope of sardines, roosters, oranges, and eggplants—start the meal with a wink. Don’t take things too seriously here. Get the martini; it comes with a fried olive stuffed with duxelles. When you bite into it, the color resembles a pit.
The Lonely Maître d’ A saturated painting by Oliver Jeffers shows a maître d’ wearing an oldschool tux and holding a candle, adrift at sea. A metaphor for the restaurant industry during the pandemic? If you want it to be. In the lonely, uncertain months before March opened, Riccio spent so much time standing in front of the painting, deep in thought, that the staff joke that it’s “Felipe’s dad.”
The Exit Signs Aren’t they beautiful? And sooo up to code. The Champagne Buckets Rodil chases hand-painted enamel French Champagne buckets at curio shops and sites like eBay and 1stDibs. “We’re in a new building with new stuff all over,” she says. “We want to strike a balance with something older, which has a sense of timelessness.”
The Tapestry The showstopper is a woven tapestry by Buenos Aires artist Alexandra Kehayoglou that’s meant to feel like a place where Mediterranean landscape meets the lush bounty of Texas agriculture. (Much of the restaurant’s produce comes from a farm in nearby Bellville that’s owned by March partners Bailey and Peter McCarthy.) It covers the ceiling and extends down the far wall of the private dining room, encapsulating diners in green and coincidentally serving as a sound absorber. Go ahead, touch it!
The Sweet Scent of…the Bathroom Is that a sun-kissed Seville orange I smell? Rodil chooses fragrances that change biannually with the menu to reflect a different region of the Mediterranean, so far from Yucatán-based perfumer Coqui Coqui. The Andalusian menu was matched with the brand’s orange offering, and the Maghreb menu called for spicy tobacco. In February, March is exploring Occitania, paired with Coqui Coqui’s lavender and chamomile scent.
The Dancing Ladies Rodil hunts online for vintage Austrian Bimini glassware like these rare, delicate blown-glass vessels with figures of dancing ladies on the stems. The restaurant keeps track of which drinkware it serves guests so that the next time you visit, you’ll sip out of something different.
Questionable Etiquette
Is It Ever Okay…to Spend the Entire Baseball Game in Line for Nachos? Advice from professional stadium snacker Alex Beggs
Do sporting events have veggie dogs yet? I’d probably go to more of them if they did. —VEGGIE VARA
There are Beyond sausages, Impossible burgers, Chik’n nachos, and other meatless options (including a curious amount of vegan chili) at most stadiums now, but you have to research where to find them before you go because they aren’t at every concession stand the way “regular meat” is. This is small progress, but we’ll take it.
Why don ’t all American stadiums serve poutine at sporting events when it’s the best stadium food? For the same reason we’ll never get universal health care. We know it’s good for us, but we’re so far gone now it’d be embarrassing to start over. However, I’ll never give up hope!
What’s the move in terms of taking home that souvenir helmet after you eat all the nachos out of it? —SOUVENIR STACEY
As someone who has written extensively about the sanctity of souvenir helmet nachos, I can tell you what I do. Wipe the bowl out with dry napkins (water complicates things) and wash it more thoroughly when you get home. Like the Detroit Tigers, you’re just going to be happy with good enough for now. 38 – MARCH 2022
That sweet one-to-three-minute mark before halftime or between innings is the unofficial sneak-outfor-a-snack time. At a baseball game, if you see the manager come out to the mound to switch pitchers, bolt outta that seat and get thee to the concessions— you’ve got ~six minutes. I don’t enjoy sports. Can I use food runs as a time killer? —NOT-INTO-IT NICO
Depends on where you’re sitting. Aisle? Go blow your entire paycheck at Hungry Howie’s. But if your beautiful butt is going to be in my face more than five times this game, you risk the silent steaming fury of a stranger who’ll never, ever confront you. Just…think of others!
What’s appropriate to eat/ drink out of the Stanley Cup? —HOCKEY HENDRIK
The Cup is for liquids and snacks only. Require a utensil? Find another trophy. The thought of spoons scraping the silver-andnickel-alloy bowl makes me want to be preserved in the ice at Little Caesars Arena while the Red Wings skate over my bones. Yea: •Champagne/beer •Sprite Cherry would be nice •Bugles •Lucky Charms milk after you ate the cereal out of a different bowl •Bone broth Nay: •Any chunky soup •Collagen smoothie •Cocktails with ice, like a spritz •Oatmeal
Weirdest but best hot dog toppings? I need inspiration. —ZANY ZOOEY
An inside source told me they get nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños on their hot dogs, and at that moment the world’s possibilities opened up to me like never before. See also: crab dip and mac ’n’ cheese. Then there’s beer spilled by the person behind you, which adds unexpected yeasty barley notes and helps the dry bun go down easy.
Do you have bad manners? Find out by emailing your etiquette questions to staff.bonappetit@gmail.com.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY ZAK TEBBAL
—THOUGHTFUL THEO
—DEHYDRATED DOREEN
I think that the flavor of $15 bottled water is extra refreshing on a summer afternoon at the ballpark, but maybe that’s resentment I’m tasting. The answer varies, depending on what stadium you’re at, but if you see someone carrying a drink you want—Is that a frozen daiquiri in a two-foot plastic souvenir cup? Need!—ask them where they got it. Otherwise you’ll circle the park and never, ever find it. There’s a taco spot in Comerica Park in Detroit where I like to get a $17 margarita, but the only way to find it is to follow me; it’s over here somewhere....
—CANADIAN COREY
What is the ideal dining time during the game to avoid lines and also not offend people?
What are the best stadium drinks that aren’t beer?
INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET
Design advice for real life.
Renovation guides. Before-and-after inspiration. Material sources. Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest. @getclever
archdigest.com/clever
March may be the peak of cozy cooking season, but that doesn’t mean dinner has to be one slow, soft braise after another. High heat, a hot pan, and the right lineup of shortcut pantry staples are all you need to snap out of your winter kitchen rut and get big flavors on the table in a hurry
Recipes by Kendra Vaculin Photographs by Emma Fishman
SPICED CHICKEN AND DATES WITH ENDIVE P. 4 3
41
BAKED EGGS AND GREENS IN HARISSA TOMATO SAUCE
Baked Eggs and Greens in Harissa Tomato Sauce 4 S E RV I N G S
These baked eggs make as great a speedy weeknight dinner as they do brunch. The pan-crisped croutons soak up just enough sauce to create that perfect crispy-gone-soggy texture. Taste your harissa paste before using to check the heat level and adjust red pepper flake usage depending on how spicy you’d like your finished product.
into each well and season with salt and black pepper. Transfer skillet to oven and bake mixture until egg whites are set but yolks are still runny, 5–8 minutes. To serve, dollop yogurt on top of baked eggs, drizzle with more oil, and scatter parsley over.
Preheat oven to 425°. Place tomatoes in a medium bowl and crush with your hands into small pieces. Set aside. Place bread in a large bowl. Drizzle 2 Tbsp. oil over and season with salt and black pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium ovenproof high-sided skillet over medium-high. Transfer bread to skillet, arranging in an even layer; reserve bowl. Cook bread, undisturbed, until browned and crisp underneath, about 3 minutes. Continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until browned and crisp on all sides, about 3 minutes more. Return to reserved bowl. Pour remaining 1 Tbsp. oil into skillet. Add garlic, capers, and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring often, until starting to soften, about 1 minute. Add harissa paste and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic and capers are coated and pastes are dark red, about 1 minute. Add kale and reserved tomatoes; season with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring often, until kale is slightly wilted and sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir toasted bread into sauce, then make 4 wells in mixture. Crack an egg
Green Chile Shrimp Scampi With Spaghetti 4 S E RV I N G S
Spiced Chicken and Dates With Endive 4 S E RV I N G S
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes ½ small loaf country-style bread, torn into 2" pieces (about 3 cups) 5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for serving Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 3 Tbsp. capers ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 3 Tbsp. harissa paste 1 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste 1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped 4 large eggs 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt Coarsely chopped parsley (for serving)
To serve, arrange endive on a large platter. Spoon chicken mixture over and top with mint.
Part lettuce cup, part salad, here sweet and spicy ground chicken (cooked with red curry paste and dates) is paired with fresh and crunchy endive. ⅓ cup raw almonds 4 oz. Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped (about ½ cup) 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. ground chicken 4 scallions, white and dark green parts separated, thinly sliced on a diagonal 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 2 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. red curry paste 2 large or 3 medium endive, leaves separated ½ cup mint leaves, torn if large Preheat oven to 350°. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop. Place dates in a small bowl and pour in ½ cup hot water to cover; set aside. Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Arrange chicken in skillet in an even layer and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown underneath, about 5 minutes. Add white parts of scallions, ginger, garlic, red pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring constantly and breaking chicken apart with a wooden spoon, until combined and chicken is no longer pink, about 1 minute. Add curry paste and cook, stirring constantly, until chicken is evenly coated, about 1 minute. Add reserved dates and soaking water and cook, stirring often, until liquid is evaporated, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in almonds and dark green parts of scallions. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
This recipe uses the timetested trio of garlic, butter, and lemon to coat spaghetti and seafood in a glossy, flavorful sauce. Fresh jalapeño and canned roasted green chiles lend layers of bright vegetal heat. 10 oz. spaghetti Kosher salt 1 lb. shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails left on 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 jalapeño, seeds removed if desired, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 4-oz. cans diced green chiles Freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest, plus more for serving ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter Chopped parsley (for serving) Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ¼ cup pasta cooking liquid. When the pasta is nearly done, pat shrimp dry with paper towels; season with salt. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook shrimp until pink but still slightly undercooked, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a plate. Add remaining 2 Tbsp. oil to same skillet. Cook jalapeño and garlic, stirring often, until garlic starts to soften and turn golden, about 1 minute. Add green chiles and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add lemon juice and cook, stirring often, until combined and mixture is jammy, about 1 minute. Add pasta, shrimp, butter, reserved pasta cooking liquid, and 2 tsp. lemon zest and cook, stirring often, until butter is melted, sauce is combined, and pasta is coated and glossy, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; taste and season with more salt and pepper. To serve, divide pasta among shallow bowls and top with parsley and more lemon zest and pepper. 43
F L AV O R E X P R E S S
When we’re pressed for time, we lean on a handful of pantry and fridge-door staples that make a 30-minute meal taste like we’ve been cooking all day. Here are a few of our favorites: Thai Curry Paste Ingredients like lemongrass, makrut lime, and coriander root take time to source and prep, which is why a dollop of premixed jarred or canned paste is so clutch. It’s an easy way to add heady aroma and flavor by the spoonful. Harissa This North African spice paste delivers so much more than heat. Think subtle chile flavors—fruitiness, a delicate astringency—along with intriguing spice notes like caraway, coriander, and cumin. Soy Sauce A little bit of soy sauce— or tamari if you’re avoiding wheat—goes a long way. It subtly enhances other flavors while also providing a hit of savoriness and complexity, and plays nice with a wide range of cuisines when deployed judiciously. Pickled Peppers Store-bought vinegarpreserved peppers are our go-to for adding a one-two punch of bright acidity and gentle heat to richer dishes. And don’t throw out that pickling liquid! It’s perfect for waking up vinaigrettes and Bloody Marys.
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GREEN CHILE SHRIMP SCAMPI W I T H S PAG H E T T I P. 4 3
Mustardy Sausage and Halloumi Stir-Fry 4 S E RV I N G S
Crisped sausage and cheese, lightly charred cabbage, and a savory mustard glaze come together for major beer hall vibes. Because so many of the ingredients are salty, you don’t need to season the vegetables while cooking. Some brown bread on the side for serving is extra credit, but a big showering of dill at the end is nonnegotiable.
2 8 1
12 1 SKILLET CHEESESTEAK WITH BROCCOLI RABE
Skillet Cheesesteak With Broccoli Rabe 4 S E RV I N G S
Is there a better way to eat steak than under a melty layer of pepper Jack with lemony broccoli rabe and pickled peppers? The steak is rare when you shingle it over the vegetables, but don’t worry; after a few minutes under the broiler, it will be perfectly cooked. 1 lb. boneless New York strip steak, patted dry Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 bunch broccoli rabe (about 1 lb.), cut into 1"–2" pieces ⅓ cup thinly sliced drained Peppadew peppers in brine 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 3 oz. pepper Jack, coarsely grated 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Season steak all over with salt and pepper, then rub with 1 Tbsp. oil. Heat a dry large skillet, preferably cast iron, 46
over medium-high. Cook steak, turning every minute or so and propping up on its fat cap to brown, until rare (an instantread thermometer inserted into center should register 115°–120°), 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add more oil to fat remaining in pan to make 2 Tbsp. fat total (leave the crispy bits!). Reduce heat to medium; cook garlic, stirring often, until golden, about 1 minute. Add broccoli rabe, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing occasionally, until slightly wilted and crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add ¼ cup water and cook, stirring often, until liquid is cooked off and broccoli rabe is tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in pickled peppers and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Heat broiler. Slice steak ¼"–½" thick; shingle over vegetables in the center of skillet. Drizzle any juices on plate over vegetables. Scatter cheese over steak; broil until cheese is melted and browned in spots, about 3 minutes. Drizzle lemon juice over vegetables just before serving.
Tbsp. Dijon mustard Tbsp. whole grain mustard Tbsp. soy sauce Tbsp. Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more oz. Halloumi cheese, torn into 1" pieces lb. green cabbage (about ½ medium head), cut into 2"-thick wedges oz. kielbasa sausage or cooked bratwurst, sliced ¼" thick medium red onion, cut into 1" pieces Chopped dill (for serving)
Whisk Dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, soy sauce, and vinegar in a small bowl; set mustard sauce aside Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Arrange Halloumi in skillet in a single layer; cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Arrange cabbage, cut side down, in same pan and cook, undisturbed, until starting to char in spots underneath, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into 1"–2" pieces. Cook sausage in same pan, turning occasionally, until browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowl with Halloumi, leaving as much fat in pan as possible. Add more oil to fat remaining in pan to make 1 Tbsp. fat total. Cook onion, undisturbed, until well browned around edges, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes more. Return cabbage to pan and add reserved mustard sauce. Cook, tossing often, until combined and cabbage is coated, about 1 minute. Remove pan from heat; stir in Halloumi and sausage. Top with dill just before serving.
FOOD STYLING BY KENDRA VACULIN
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M U S TA R DY SAU SAG E A N D HALLOUMI STIR-FRY
THE METHOD (AND THE MADNESS) B E H I N D O U R FAV O R I T E COMMUNAL MEAL
W T H T P T H
T E X T BY E LYS E INAMINE
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R E C I P E S BY ERIC SZE PHOTOGRAPHS BY J E N N Y H U A N G
YO U C A N N OT F E E L L U K E WA R M A B O U T H O T POT BEC AUSE HOT POT DOES N OT FEEL L U K E WA R M A B O U T Y O U .
Commonly found in East and Southeast Asian cooking, hot pot is centered around a vessel of roiling broth, into which diners plunk meats, seafood, vegetables, and starches. It’s a dining experience that calls for your attention and participation as you toss in handfuls of chrysanthemum greens and blocks of fish tofu. It demands that you be hospitable as beef slices reach peak medium-rare or thin rounds of potatoes soften to the perfect texture—a signal for you to swiftly ferry 50
them over to your fellow diners’ bowls. “Everyone is part of the journey with you,” says Eric Sze, chef-owner of 886 and Wenwen in New York City. “That’s why I love hot pot so much.” When he was growing up in Taiwan, Sze was surrounded by many different types of hot pot restaurants. But he was stunned to find virtually none in his college town of Ithaca, New York. A homesick student, he decided to whip up a hot pot spread himself for his then girlfriend (now wife) with whatever meats he could find in the nearest grocery store’s freezer section along with Napa cabbage, lettuce, enoki mushrooms, and vermicelli. Immediately, he was hooked. He started ordering hot pot at restaurants wherever he traveled and perfecting his own game at home. If you’ve made hot pot once, he explains, it becomes something you know; from there, you can riff. “Every time, I pick up new things, like I’m going to try adding taro, or beef top blade instead of just short rib—or Van Leeuwen mac ’n’ cheese ice cream,” Sze explains with a chuckle. “People on Instagram gave me a hard time for that last one, but that’s innovation.” That’s the beauty of hot pot: It’s a choose-your-own adventure once you’ve learned the basics. And if you haven’t? Well, you’ve come to the right place. Taking our lead from Sze, we’re sharing broths that’ll be the foundation of your meal, the perfect variety (and prep) of fixings to dip into those broths, gear that guarantees the smoothest hot pot experience, and our honestly very chill rules for turning all these elements into the dynamic, delicious feast we love. By the end of it, you won’t be lukewarm—you’ll be a hot pot obsessive too. Welcome to our hot pot primer.
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HERBAL MUSHROOM BROTH M A K E S A B O U T 2 ½ Q U A RT S
This comforting herbal hot pot base happens to be vegan and gets plenty of umami from mushrooms and alliums. If you like things spicy, you can add some heat by including 4 tablespoons Pixian chili bean paste and 15 dried chao tian jiao or dried chiles de árbol, fried for 2 minutes before the onions are added. 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. assorted mushrooms (such as shiitake, king oyster, and/or portobello), thinly sliced 2 large onions, cut into 2" pieces 5 large shallots, thinly sliced 1 head of garlic, cloves separated, peeled 2 bunches scallions, coarsely chopped, plus more cut into 3" pieces for serving ½ large head of Napa cabbage, sliced crosswise ½" thick 2 large leeks, cut into 2" pieces 1 3" piece ginger, scrubbed, cut into 1" pieces ½ cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine), michiu, or dry sake 1 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms (about 8 large) ½ oz. white rock sugar or 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 3 pitted dried jujubes (Chinese red dates), plus more for serving ⅛ oz. dried sliced dang gui (angelica root), plus more for serving 2 Tbsp. dried goji berries, plus more for serving 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over high. Cook fresh mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until browned, 5–8 minutes. Add onions, shallots, garlic, and chopped scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened and lightly browned, 12–15 minutes. Add cabbage, leeks, ginger, and wine; cook, stirring, until cabbage is softened, 5–8 minutes. Add dried shiitakes, rock sugar, 3 jujubes, ⅛ oz. dang gui, and 2 Tbsp. goji berries. Pour in 10 cups cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover pot and cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a gentle boil, 1 hour. Scoop out solids from broth with a fine-mesh sieve, pressing with a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Pick out mushrooms and set aside in a small bowl for serving; discard remaining solids. Stir 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt into broth; taste and season with more salt if needed. Top with more jujubes, dang gui, goji berries, and scallions. D O A H E A D : Broth (without toppings) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months. 52
MALA BEEF BROTH M A K E S A B O U T 2 ½ Q U A RT S
Spicy, tingly mala broth is on the menu at most hot pot restaurants. From toasting the spices to frying the chili bean paste and aromatics to gently boiling the broth, each step in this homemade version requires a small investment of time and love, but comes with a huge payoff. 3 lb. 2"–3" sections mixed beef soup bones (such as neck, marrow, and/or oxtail) 4 star anise pods 2 Tbsp. Sichuan peppercorns 15 dried chao tian jiao chiles or dried chiles de árbol, plus more for serving 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 4 Tbsp. Pixian chili bean paste 2 large onions, cut into 2" pieces 3 large shallots, quartered 1 bunch scallions, cut into 3" pieces 1 head of garlic, cloves separated, peeled 1 3" piece ginger, scrubbed, cut into 1" pieces ½ cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine), michiu, or dry sake 1 oz. white rock sugar or 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar 6 Tbsp. soy sauce (preferably Kimlan) 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Place beef bones in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot; pour in cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook 20 minutes. Drain bones in a colander (blanching the bones and discarding the liquid yields a clearer, tastier final broth). Rinse and wipe out pot; set aside. Toast star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, and 15 dried chiles in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant and peppercorns are beginning to crackle, about 2 minutes. Transfer spices to a plate and let cool. Heat oil in reserved pot over high. Cook bean paste, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly darkened in color, about 2 minutes. Add onions, shallots, scallions, garlic, and ginger. Cook, still stirring, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Pour in wine; cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until combined, about 30 seconds. Return bones to pot; add toasted spices, rock sugar, and soy sauce. Pour in 13 cups cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover pot and cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a gentle boil, 4 hours. Using a fine-mesh sieve, scoop out solids from broth. Pick out any meat and set aside in a small bowl for serving if desired; discard remaining solids. Stir 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt into broth; taste and season with more salt if needed. Top with more dried chiles. D O A H E A D : Broth (without topping) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months. 53
Let’s Talk Gear Before you begin laying out your aesthetically pleasing hot pot spread, you need the right equipment. Here’s a nice, hopefully jaw-unclenching disclaimer: There is only one piece of gear we’d say is a must-buy for hot pot. The rest of our recommendations are purely optional, though we’re sharing them here because they’ve made our hot-pot-making lives easier—and we imagine they’ll do the same for you.
ELECTRIC BURNER If you invest in one piece of equipment, it should be the burner—because hot pot is all about the experience of cooking whatever you want at the table, as you eat. You’ll typically come across two types of hot pot burners: butane and electric. Sze is Team Electric. “It cooks more evenly, plus you won’t run out of electricity like butane,” Sze says. This Cuisinart Countertop Single Burner is quick to heat up, pretty powerful, and easy to clean. $60; cuisinart.com
All About That Broth “Broths are the building blocks of your hot pot,” Sze says. For this primer, he shared two recipes: a Mala Beef Broth inspired by Taiwanese beef noodle soup and a vegan Herbal Mushroom Broth. They’re meant to be served side by side in a divided pot for two different but complementary experiences. “You want a spicy broth— verging on too spicy—that you can’t stop eating, and another that is milder and refreshing,” he explains. “You can switch between the two and that makes your palate dance.” We suggest making both broths, but you’re still good with just one.
I F YO U N E E D A SHORTCUT, STORE-BOUGHT BROTH IS FINE
DIVIDED POT The reason for this is simple: “You can have two broths at once, buddy! It makes life more exciting,” says Sze. Jessie YuChen, the food editor of this story, highly recommends a stainless-steel pot with a clear lid, so you can see when the broths are boiling and ready for ingredients. In a pinch, use any lidded short-sided stock pot or Dutch oven you have. $50; amazon.com
WIRE SKIMMERS This nifty tool is great for keeping track of the ingredients you’re cooking. Sze uses it like a fishing net. “You can put your meat or manila clam in the skimmer and take it out once you see it’s at the temp you want it,” he says. No skimmer? Just use chopsticks. $9; amazon.com
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Hot pot is what you want it to be, so there is zero judgment if you don’t have the time or energy to make your own broth. These store bought bases come in powder and sauce forms; for either option, just add it to water or stock and bring to a simmer. Here are the ones we reach for in a pinch:
Fly by Jing Fire Hot Pot Base If nose-clearing, tongue-tingling spice is your thing, this Sichuanpeppercorn-infused sauce is for you. “It’s really pepper-centric, and you can taste the quality of the red chile peppers,” Sze says. $20 for two bases; flybyjing.com Haidilao Hot Pot Seasoning “It tastes like Chinese medicine, herbal and clean,” Sze explains. Which, for the record, is a high compliment. $5; cocoislandmart.com Little Sheep Mushroom Soup Base This makes a ridiculously umamirich broth that’s great with a vegforward hot pot spread; it imbues Napa cabbage and ’shrooms with savory-sweet flavor. $10; walmart.com
Time for the Fun Stuff
SEAFOOD
Repeat after us: The key to hot pot lies in the variety of the spread. You want a rich and salty moment to linger on your taste buds, a fatty and chewy moment for body, a fresh and crunchy moment to reset your palate, and a starchy moment to bring it all together and finish out the meal. The way Sze ensures his hot pot hits all those notes is by following a flexible categorization of inclusions: seafood, meat, leafy veg, hardy veg, mushrooms, accessories, and starch. Here he breaks down each category, along with his tips for prepping and cooking. M A N I L A C L A M S As they open up, they add a distinct saltiness to the broth. T H E P R E P Scrub clean and purge in water for 30 minutes before cooking. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E “I babysit them,” Sze admits, putting one clam in at a time and watching until it opens, from 30 seconds to around 5 minutes.
T H I S I S A LO T OF I NGR E DI E NT S , S O A WORD OF ADVICE: START BY PI CK I NG O N E I T E M F R OM E AC H CAT E G O R Y, S Z E S AYS . S I N C E I T ’ S A L L R AW INGREDIENTS, L E F TOVE RS CA N BE RE PU RP OS ED I NTO O TH E R DI S H E S .
S H R I M P Because who doesn’t like shrimp?! THE PREP
Sze goes with tiger shrimp, peeling, salting for 15 minutes, and then rinsing. This ensures a slightly bouncy texture. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E About a minute 55
ACCESSORIES FRIED BEAN CURD ROLLS
Like Fruit Roll-Ups but toasty and soybeany. T H E P R E P You’re off the hook for this one! Find frozen or chilled at Asian supermarkets. THE COOKING TIME
5 seconds, or “as long as it takes to unravel,” Sze says. F I S H TO F U Fish meat is whipped until aerated and then fried, turning it squishy and snappy. TH E PR E P Look for these golden yellow squares in the freezer of any Asian grocery store. THE COOKING TIME
3 minutes or so. F I S H B A L L S These chewy orbs are often fried (the golden ones) or filled with roe (the Smurfs’-hat-shaped ones!). T H E P R E P Buy them frozen. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E 3–5 minutes, or until the fish ball floats (this indicates it’s cooked through). F R OZ E N TO F U Freezing B E E F B A L L “How it’s made
is pretty poetic,” Sze muses. “Beef is pounded until the fibers break down. This turns it into a paste, which is shaped into balls. It’s bouncy, meaty, and fun to eat.” T H E P R E P Buy them precooked and frozen. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E They just need to be warmed through in the broth, about 3 minutes.
MUSHROOMS
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forces the water in tofu to expand. When it thaws, the tofu retains that expanded structure. “It takes on an extra spongy texture, which sucks up more broth,” Sze explains. T H E P R E P Take any kind of tofu and cut it into blocks. Freeze it fully, thaw it, and freeze it again before serving at hot pot. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E About 10 minutes.
S H I I TA K E They have a hearty
K I N G OYS T E R “ For when
texture and infuse umami into the broth as they cook. T H E P R E P Pop them in whole. “It just looks better,” Sze says. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E At least 10 minutes but even as long as 30 minutes.
you’re greased out from the meat, or if you’re vegetarian,” Sze declares. T H E P R E P Cut into 1" chunks or ¼" slices. THE COOKING TIME
About 6 minutes for chunks or 2–3 minutes for slices.
LEAFY VEGETABLES N A PA C A B B AG E
An absolute flavor sponge. T H E P R E P Separate the leaves and cut vertically into three long slices. THE COOKING TIME
10 minutes, until soft and bursting with brothy flavor. C H RYSA N T H E M U M G R E E N S Their herbal
flavor helps palate fatigue. T H E P R E P Rinse. THE COOKING TIME
No more than 3–4 minutes— you want freshness. Y U C H OY A perfect mix of crunchy and chewy. T H E P R E P Chop off the roots and cut stalks into thirds. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E 30 seconds, for the stalkier portions, to maintain the texture, and a few seconds for the leafier parts.
HARDY VEGETABLES M O U N TA I N YA M For
a juicy, sandy texture similar to a Korean pear. T H E P R E P Peel and cut into 3” sticks, like a steak fry. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E No more than 3 minutes.
C E LT U C E One of Sze’s all-time favorite veggies. T H E P R E P Peel off the tough, fibrous skin, then cut into chunks or slice into wafer-thin rounds. THE COOKING TIME
5 minutes for chunks or 5 seconds for rounds. LOT U S R O OT
For a much-needed burst of crunch. T H E P R E P Peel and cut into ½”-thick rounds. THE COOKING TIME
5–10 minutes. TA R O Creamy starch
ENOKI OR BEECH
Bundles of bouncy joy. T H E P R E P Chop off the roots and pull into small clumps. THE COOKING TIME
10 minutes or so.
is unbeatable. T H E P R E P Peel and cut into ½" slices or 1½" chunks. Soak the taro in water first to wash off excess starch, which can thicken the broth too much. THE COOKING TIME
About 1 minute for slices or 10 minutes for chunks.
KABOCHA SQUASH
Winter’s finest! Cut into thick wedges and keep the skin on—it’s edible and keeps the squash intact. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E 10 minutes, until it’s velvety but not falling apart THE PREP
M E AT
BEEF SHORT RIBS Sze’s cut of choice
(it’s pure nostalgia). Freeze 30 minutes to firm up, then trim off the silver skin and cut against the grain in slices or cubes. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E About 15 seconds for slices and up to 30 minutes for cubes, perfect for forgetful eaters. THE PREP
P R E S L I C E D FAT T Y B E E F Usually brisket or chuck, which can be found in the refrigerated or freezer sections of most Asian supermarkets. T H E P R E P Thaw, if frozen. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E 8 seconds, ideally, but up to a minute, depending on your preference —cook it the way you like your steak.
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L E G O F L A M B A study in textures! THE PREP
Get the calf muscle (more uniform in terms of fat, connective tissue, and lean parts), ask your butcher to remove the bone,and slice thinly. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E Around 90 seconds for tender, more-cooked-through meat, though Sze likes his rare (he dips for 15 seconds).
P R E S L I C E D P O R K B E L LY Also found in the refrigerated or freezer sections of most Asian supermarkets; it should be about an eighth-inch thick. T H E P R E P Thaw, if frozen. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E Since it’s got a lot of fat, it can hang in the broth for a while (10 minutes!).
STA R C H You’re already eating a ton of food—but to round out your meal, “Why not add a bowl of vermicelli?” Sze asks. It’s the best way to fully enjoy the broths because noodles will pick up the flavor that’s been building all dinner long.
G L A S S N O O D L E S This is Sze’s standard addition: “It’s not too heavy, soaks up the flavor best among other noodles, and cooks really fast.” T H E P R E P Get the mung bean version; compared to other noodles, they have less starch, which can burn in the pot. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E Follow package instructions.
How to Put It All Together You’ve made it. Welcome to heaven’s gate, the magical moments before your hot pot extravaganza begins. You’ve got some amazing tasting (and smelling) broths at the table, surrounded by plates and bowls of all the ingredients you’re in the mood for. Now it’s time to cook—here’s how to do it.
1. Bring the broths to a boil. Then, lower the temperature to a simmer, and you’re ready to dunk. 2. Start by adding whatever takes the longest to cook (hardy veg, mushrooms) or will impart more flavor (like meats, which will make a meat broth even meatier). A word to the wise: Be prepared when adding flavor sponges (tofu, Napa cabbage) to spicy broths since they’ll absorb heat and can become overwhelming to eat. 3. Once your long-cook ingredients are in, it’s a free-for-all. Cook your other inclusions at your own pace. Some hot
I N S TA N T R A M E N For the people
with a well-stocked pantry. Use the noodles; save the flavor packets for something else. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E As little or as long as you’d like.
FOOD STYLING BY TYNA HOANG. PROP STYLING BY NICOLE LOUIE.
THE PREP
R I C E To make congee, so you don’t
waste a bit of that precious broth. T H E P R E P Remove any lingering ingredients before adding in leftover cooked rice. T H E C O O K I N G T I M E 10 minutes, stirring often.
pot enthusiasts might propose that you start with meat, then veg, then starch. But, Sze says, “the whole point of hot pot is to experience different flavors and textures throughout your meal, and to have strict rules defeats the purpose.” Instead, he pays close attention to each item he adds to ensure perfect cooking. 4. And remember: Feed your friends. “There is absolute accountability at the hot pot table,” Sze explains. If you see short ribs hit the perfect temperature or taro about to crumble, scoop it up and drop it off at a dining companion’s bowl. “This kind of etiquette is part of the communal experience of eating hot pot.”
FOR ALL THE HOT POT HEADS OUT THERE, THE CONDIMENTS Sze believes the broth is the only seasoning you need. But if you live to dip and drizzle, mix these sauces to taste, and dunk your cooked items before taking a bite. Black Vinegar
Sacha Sauce
Sesame Paste
For a hit of acid, Sze likes this inky vinegar. He opts for Eastlake Shanxi (more savory) or Fly by Jing (slightly sweeter).
Frequently available at hot pot restaurants, this aromatic paste can be seafood-based or vegetarian. Sze’s default brand is Bull Head BBQ Sauce from Taiwan. $12; umamicart.com
Thin it out with soy sauce, black vinegar, and water for a sauce with balance. Wangzhihe is a fave, but tahini works in a pinch. $13; amazon.com
$5; cocoisland mart.com. $20; flybyjing.com
Scallions, Cilantro, and Garlic Mince these bad boys and sprinkle them into your condiments for brightness that cuts through heavy flavors.
A FINAL WORD: “Be adventurous,” Sze says. “If you have them in your fridge, put in some
sausages. If it’s springtime, add fiddlehead ferns. This spread reflects my preference for hot pot; it’s not the universally accepted way to do it. Whatever you like, try it. Hot pot is a blank canvas, and you can go in so many different directions.” In other words, you got this. 59
In the year’s dreariest month, you’ve got to make your own sun. Even better if it takes the form of puckery curd bars, joyfully bouncy mochi cake, crispy mini knafeh full of gooey cheese, and more desserts that outshine the usual bake sale offerings
Recipes by Christina Chaey, Rachel Gurjar, Zaynab Issa, Mehreen Karim, Shilpa Uskokovic, and Kendra Vaculin Photographs by Emma Fishman
BEAUTIFUL 60
Mini Knafeh With Rose and Pistachio P. 69 Texture seekers and corner-piece hoarders, these are for you. When baked in a muffin tin rather than the more traditional partysize round, every serving of this beloved Middle Eastern dessert contains more crispy-crunchy, ghee-soaked pastry. But never fear: There’s still plenty of stretchy cheese in the middle of each one.
Coconut-Mango-Lime Barfi MAKES ABOUT 22
The world of barfi is vast and varied; we love this mango version because it’s bright and tart. We went for triangles, but it can also be sliced into bars or diamonds or simply rolled into truffles. ½ cup sweetened condensed milk ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. canned or frozen mango purée ½ tsp. finely grated lime zest, plus more for serving 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 4 cups (320 g) unsweetened shredded coconut, plus more for serving Line an 8x8" baking pan with parchment paper, leaving generous overhang on 2 sides. Using a rubber spatula or whisk, mix condensed milk, mango purée, lime juice, salt, and ½ tsp. lime zest in a large bowl until smooth and combined. Add 4 cups (320 g) coconut and mix until all of the coconut is coated. Scrape coconut mixture into prepared pan and spread evenly all the way to the edges and corners, then use the spatula to flatten. Sprinkle with more lime zest and shredded coconut, then chill in freezer 45 minutes to let set. Cut into triangles with a large knife to serve. DO AHEAD: Barfi can be made 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Preserved-Lemon Tea Cake M A K E S O N E 8 ½ X 4 ½ " LO A F
Punchy preserved lemons aren’t just for salad dressings and braises—they also rein in the sweetness and add unique depth to lemon loaf cake. Olive oil reinforces the fruity savoriness and works with the sour cream to keep this cake plush and moist for days. ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for parchment 1 preserved lemon (about 55 g) 1½ cups (188 g) all purpose flour 2 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. ground turmeric 3 large eggs 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (225 g) granulated sugar ½ cup sour cream 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 62
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¾ cup (83 g) powdered sugar 1 Tbsp. whole milk Flaky sea salt Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Line an 8½x4½" loaf pan, preferably metal, with parchment paper, leaving generous overhang on the long sides, and brush with oil. Cut preserved lemon into quarters; remove any seeds. Transfer to a small food processor and process to form a paste (you can also do this with a mortar and pestle or simply chop and smash with your knife). Whisk flour, baking powder, and turmeric in a medium bowl to combine. Beat eggs, granulated sugar, and C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 6 5
Coconut-Mango-Lime Barfi One bowl, no-bake, and makeahead-friendly, this South Asian dessert checks all the boxes. And beyond the practical matters, it’s got tang, fruitiness, and a soft chew too. Using canned or frozen mango purée ensures a consistent level of sugar and moisture and means you don’t have to wait for rock-hard fruit to ripen—or mango season to come.
Preserved-Lemon Tea Cake To make the lemon-iest lemon cake, work smarter not harder. Instead of upping the amount of fresh fruit, seek out a more intense initial product. Preserved lemons, when puréed into paste and incorporated into an olive-oil-based batter, bring a powerful citrus flavor and subtle brininess that zest and juice alone could never achieve. (And before you worry, no, the final cake does not taste salty.)
Passion Fruit Bars Like lemon bars on holiday in the tropics! The rich curd of this two-layer confection is flavored with passion fruit juice, meaning there’s no need to seek out whole fruit or purée. The secret ingredient—okay, it’s cream of tartar—provides a sour counterpoint that keeps these from being cloyingly sweet, and the buttery vanilla shortbread offers just enough heft to anchor the curd while still keeping the bars melt-in-your-mouth tender.
remaining ½ cup oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until smooth and incorporated, about 1 minute. Add sour cream and mix to combine. Add preserved-lemon paste, lemon zest, and lemon juice and mix to combine. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients, and mix until just combined, about 15 seconds. (Batter can also be mixed together in a large bowl with a whisk.) Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Bake cake until top is golden brown and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50–60 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake cool 15 minutes. Run a knife around sides of pan to loosen and, using parchment paper overhang, lift cake out of pan and onto rack. Peel away parchment paper and discard. Let cake cool completely. Meanwhile, whisk powdered sugar and milk in a medium bowl until smooth. Transfer cake to a platter or large plate. Using a rubber spatula to help guide glaze, spoon glaze over cake, letting it drip down the sides (you should have a fairly thick coating). Sprinkle sea salt over glaze and let cake sit until glaze is set, about 30 minutes. D O A H E A D : Cake can be made 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Passion Fruit Bars M A K E S 16
Cooking the passion fruit and lemon curd first on the stovetop allows it to set more quickly when baked on top of the shortbread base, while staying soft yet sliceable. This recipe requires only fruit juice, but if you can find the fresh fruit, buy it—we love it spooned over each bar as an optional garnish that offers pops of crunch to counter the silky curd below. S H O RT B R E A D
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled 1 tsp. vanilla extract C U R D A N D ASS E M B LY
¼ cup (31 g) all-purpose flour ¾ tsp. cream of tartar ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt
4 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 1¼ cups passion fruit juice (preferably Ceres or Goya Passion Fruit Cocktail) 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter Fresh passion fruit or powdered sugar (for serving; optional) Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°. Line an 8x8" baking pan, preferably metal, with overlapping sheets of parchment paper, leaving generous overhang on all sides. Whisk flour, granulated sugar, and salt in a large bowl to combine. Add butter and vanilla and mix with a rubber spatula until butter is evenly distributed. The dough should stick together in clumps while still remaining crumbly. Transfer dough to prepared pan (you may find it easier to form into a ball first instead of working with clumps—entirely up to you) and press into pan in an even layer, working it all the way to the sides and corners. Bake shortbread until top and edges are golden brown, 13–17 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool.
Transfer pan to a wire rack and let bar cool, about 1 hour. Cover pan tightly with plastic wrap and chill at least 3 hours before serving. Just before serving, slice passion fruit bars into 2" squares and top with spoonfuls of fresh passion fruit or dust with powdered sugar with a fine-mesh sieve if desired. D O A H E A D : Bars can be baked 3 days ahead. Keep chilled.
S H O RT B R E A D
While the shortbread is cooling, whisk flour, cream of tartar, and salt in a small bowl to combine. Vigorously whisk eggs, egg yolks, passion fruit juice, lemon juice, and granulated sugar in a large saucepan just to combine. Add dry ingredients and whisk to incorporate. Set saucepan over medium heat and cook curd, whisking constantly and making sure to get into the corners of the pan, until it begins to release steam and thicken, 9–12 minutes. Immediately remove pan from heat, add butter, and whisk until smooth. Pour curd through a fine-mesh sieve onto shortbread crust, using a rubber spatula to scrape off any curd that clings to the bottom of sieve. Spread curd into an even layer, working it all the way to the sides and corners. Using a 12x12" sheet of foil, make a tent to cover baking dish loosely. Bake 12 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325° and remove foil from pan. Continue to bake bar until sides of curd are set but center still jiggles slightly when pan is gently shaken, 8–10 minutes more.
Guava-Grapefruit Possets 4 S E RV I N G S
Possets rely on a little culinary science for their near-magical ease and luscious custardy texture. The acidity in citrus juice works to gently thicken and set cream into a rich and velvety pudding. Reducing the cream helps remove excess moisture for perfectly set possets—spoonable and just barely bound. P O SS E T S
2 cups heavy cream ½ cup (100 g) sugar 1 Tbsp. (packed) finely grated grapefruit zest ¼ cup fresh grapefruit juice ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ tsp. kosher salt
C U R D A N D A S S E M B LY
J E L LY A N D ASS E M B LY
4 oz. guava paste (preferably Goya or La Fe), cut into small pieces 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice Flaky sea salt Bring cream, sugar, and grapefruit zest to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium-high, whisking occasionally, and cook (still whisking from time to time) until sugar is dissolved and cream is reduced by about a quarter (mixture should be just shy of 2 cups), 8–10 minutes. Remove pan from heat; immediately add grapefruit juice, lemon juice, and salt; whisk vigorously just until combined. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass or a small bowl or other container with a spout. Pour into 4 glasses, dividing evenly (about ½ cup each) and chill until set, at least 3 hours. D O A H E A D : Possets can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. POSSE TS
C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 6 6
65
Cook guava paste and ¼ cup water in small saucepan over medium, whisking vigorously, until paste is melted and mixture is smooth, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and add lemon juice, whisking well. Spoon jelly over set possets (about 1½ Tbsp. per portion) and smooth surface with a spoon. Chill until jelly is cool, 10–15 minutes. Just before serving, sprinkle tops of possets with salt. D O A H E A D : Possets with jelly (but without sea salt) can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled. J E L LY A N D ASS E M B LY
BAKE THE COVER
Chocolate-Matcha Butter Mochi Cake MAKES ONE 8"- OR 9"-DIAME TER CAKE
The mochiko, or sweet rice flour, is what gives the cake its unique squishy texture, and the earthy matcha and bittersweet chocolate make this the not-too-sweet dessert of our dreams. Ceremonial-grade matcha is worth the splurge here—it has the most vibrant color. Take the time to sift the matcha to ensure there aren’t any dry bits in the final cake. 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled, plus roomtemperature butter for pan 1½ cups (227 g) mochiko (sweet rice flour; such as Koda Farms or Bob’s Red Mill Sweet White Rice Flour) 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 Tbsp. matcha, sifted, plus more for serving 2 large eggs 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1⅓ cups heavy cream, divided 4 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Generously butter an 8"- or 9"-diameter cake pan. Whisk mochiko, baking powder, salt, and 2 Tbsp. matcha in a large bowl just to combine. Vigorously whisk eggs and melted butter in a medium bowl until pale and emulsified, about 30 seconds. Add sweetened condensed milk, vanilla, and 1 cup cream and whisk until mixture is 66
smooth. Scrape into dry ingredients and whisk vigorously until smooth and very thick. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth surface. Bake cake until it starts to pull away from sides of pan, top and edges are golden, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35–45 minutes (cake in the smaller pan will take longer to bake than one in the larger pan). Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake cool 5 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack; let cool completely. Place chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Bring remaining ⅓ cup cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Immediately pour over chocolate; let sit 15 seconds. Stir until ganache is smooth. C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 69
Guava-Grapefruit Possets P. 65 Wobble, quiver, jiggle, tremble— this spoonable comfort has moves, and it’s stupid-simple to make too. Simmer cream with sugar, add citrus juice, then wait for chemistry to kick in. With no distracting eggs, cornstarch, or gelatin, you get pure dairy richness primed to showcase the flavors of your choice—in this case, zingy grapefruit and sharp but floral guava.
Chocolate-Matcha Butter Mochi Cake This dessert could grace a pastry shop window, but its elegance masks its ease (just as the shiny chocolate glaze covers up the bouncy-cushiony-chewy middle). In the spirit of the Hawai’ian butter mochi that inspired the recipe, it requires minimal equipment and comes together in the time it takes the oven to heat up.
Raspberry-Tahini Thumbprint Cookies These jam-bellied cookies don’t rely on tahini alone for their nuttiness—they also have a touch of almond extract to boost the natural sesame flavor, plus bursts of toasty seeds. To keep these as chewy and tender as possible, pull them from the oven while they’re still soft—they’ll firm up as they cool on the baking sheets.
Evenly pour ganache over top of cake. Using a small offset spatula or spoon, spread ganache to edges of cake (drips down the sides are encouraged!). Let sit until ganache is set, about 2 hours. (If you are in a hurry, you can chill cake until glaze is set, about 30 minutes.) Just before serving, dust top of cake with more matcha with a fine-mesh sieve. D O A H E A D : Cake and glaze can be made 2 days ahead. Store cake tightly wrapped in several layers of plastic at room temperature. Let glaze cool, then chill in an airtight container. Gently reheat glaze in the microwave or a double boiler over a pan of simmering water (do not let bowl touch water) until just melted before using.
Raspberry-Tahini Thumbprint Cookies MAKES ABOUT 30
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH.
You can use any flavor jam to make these crisp-but-chewy cookies, but raspberry plays particularly nicely with nutty tahini. The combination of black and white sesame seeds makes for the most stunning appearance, but no one will complain if you choose only one. 1½ cups (188 g) all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 large egg ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar ½ cup (packed; 100 g) light brown sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ tsp. almond extract (optional) ½ cup well-mixed tahini ¼ cup black sesame seeds ¼ cup white sesame seeds ⅔ cup raspberry jam Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 375°. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl to combine. Beat egg, granulated sugar, brown sugar, butter, and almond extract (if using) in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add tahini and beat, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, until combined. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing until completely combined after
each addition. (Dough will be soft at this point.) Cover bowl and chill dough 30 minutes. Mix black and white sesame seeds in a shallow bowl or dish. Working one at a time, scoop out dough by the tablespoonful and roll into balls. Roll each ball in sesame seeds to coat and divide between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 2" apart. Bake cookies until slightly puffed and spread, 6–8 minutes. Remove from oven and press handle of a whisk or wooden spoon about halfway down into the center of each cookie to create a small well (the cookies will be too hot to use your thumb). Dollop about ½ tsp. jam into indentation in each cookie. Return cookies to oven, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back, and bake until golden around edges and jam is beginning to set, 6–8 minutes. Let cookies cool on baking sheets before eating. (They will be soft right out of the oven but will firm up as they cool.) DO AHEAD: Cookies can baked 1 day ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Mini Knafeh With Rose and Pistachio MAKES 24
Knafeh is usually made in a large round tray and filled with a mix of Arabic cheeses, but in this version individual desserts are formed in muffin pans and stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella. Food coloring provides the iconic bright orange appearance, but if you skip it, you’ll still get a subtle golden hue. For an anytime treat, freeze the shaped knafeh (disposable pans work great for this) and bake them from frozen, adding 3–5 minutes to the cook time. 12 oz. whole-milk mozzarella, grated on the large holes of a box grater 6 oz. whole-milk fresh ricotta 1 cup ghee or clarified butter, melted ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt Orange food coloring or red and yellow food coloring, preferably oil-based or powder (optional) 1 lb. fresh or frozen, thawed kataifi (shredded phyllo pastry) 1 cup (200 g) sugar 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. rose water or orange-flower water (optional)
¼ cup raw pistachios, finely chopped or crushed ¼ cup dried rose petals (optional) Disposable foodgrade gloves (optional) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°. Mix mozzarella and ricotta in a medium bowl to combine; set aside. Place ghee and salt in a small bowl. Add food coloring, if using, to achieve your desired hue (medium orange is a good aim; the color will intensify when the knafeh are baked) and mix vigorously to combine (water-based food coloring won’t completely dissolve into the ghee and that’s okay). Using a sharp knife, cut kataifi into 1" pieces and place in a large bowl. Tear strands apart with your hands to separate. Using gloves if desired (the food coloring can stain your hands), pour ghee mixture over kataifi and toss and rub strands until completely coated in ghee. (If using water-based food coloring, it may take some extra time to fully disperse it.) Working one at a time, scoop about ¼ cup kataifi mixture into each cup of 2 standard 12-cup muffin pans. Using your hands, pack into cups and create a well for cheese mixture (it should look similar to a bird’s nest). Place a heaping 1 Tbsp. cheese mixture into each well, doing your best to keep cheese centered and away from sides of pan. Divide remaining kataifi mixture among muffin cups (about a packed 1 Tbsp. each) and press down on it with your palm or a spoon to pack. Kataifi mixture should be level or almost level with top of pan and cheese mixture should be barely visible. Bake until crisp, 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, bring sugar, lemon juice, rose water (if using), and ¾ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat; set syrup aside. Remove knafeh from oven. Place an inverted baking sheet over a muffin pan and carefully flip over to unmold knafeh. Repeat with second muffin pan and another baking sheet. To serve, spoon 1–2 Tbsp. reserved syrup over each warm knafeh; top with pistachios and dried rose petals (if using). D O A H E A D : Knafeh can be formed 3 months ahead. Tightly wrap muffin pans in plastic and freeze. 69
P OW E R P OT L I K K E R
THE OF
With Carla Hall
S M O K E D PA P R I K A AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO P OTLIKKER P. 76
COUNTRY HAM POTLIKKER P. 75
• Explore the versatility of this dynamic Southern staple with six innovative recipes from the author of Carla Hall’s Soul Food
text by ANTAR A SINHA photographs by EMMA FISHMAN
FENNEL POTLIKKER P. 79
PORTRAIT BY SCOTT SUCHMAN
Potlikker (or pot liquor) is simple enough to describe—it’s the brothy liquid gold left behind after boiling greens and beans—and its roots in Southern culinary traditions and heritage run deep. For Nashville-born chef Carla Hall, potlikker is more than a delicious by-product of braising; it’s a cultural bridge between preconceived notions of soul food and what the cuisine represents today.
about soul food, they think of heavy dishes like gravies, macaroni and cheese, and candied yams,” Hall says. “I want to highlight potlikker as a cultural connection to soul food.” An ingredient whose use sheds a light on the complex racialized history of Southern cooking, potlikker was once valued only by diligent enslaved Africans who saved the nourishing broth for their families after cooking greens. Eventually, potlikker became so popular that in 1931 an Atlanta newspaper editor stirred a nearly monthlong public debate involving the governor of Louisiana and whether cornbread should be dunked or crumbled into it. “Potlikker was so much a part of growing up,” Hall says. “Most people don’t analyze what they’re eating as a child.” Now, in her cooking, writing, and eating, “I intellectualize it.” Here Hall shares her personal approach to making potlikker as an intentional first step to imbuing “ WHEN PEOPLE THINK
a number of knockout dishes with layers of flavor. Think of these delicious aromatic-packed potlikkers as ultra-concentrated broths, each one becoming a base ingredient for two different hearty comfort recipes. A bright Fennel Potlikker (p. 79) finds its home in a lemony vegetable bowl with barley and in velvety shrimp and grits. A take on the classic Country Ham Potlikker (p. 75) becomes the base of a luscious gravy for smothered pork chops and a zippy vinaigrette for a sweet and savory apple and bean salad. A rich Smoked Paprika and Sun-Dried Tomato Potlikker (p. 76) buoys brothy orecchiette with savory-sweet turnips and braises hearty chicken thighs. Through these recipes Hall celebrates the origins of potlikker as an ingredient born of thrift, nutrition, and necessity. “I want [people] to see that it’s accessible,” Hall says. “Once you make the potlikker, everything else is easy.”
73
SMOTHERED PORK CHOPS IN POTLIKKER G R AV Y
COUNTRY HAM POTLIKKER
Country ham is dry-cured and often smoked, resulting in a very concentrated flavor. Smoked ham hocks will give similar intensity to this savory broth.
BEAN AND VEGETABLE SAL AD WITH POTLIKKER VINAIGRETTE
1 C O U N T RY H A M P OT L I K K E R 1 1½-oz. piece country ham or one 12-oz. smoked ham hock 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt
Bean and Vegetable Salad With Potlikker Vinaigrette 6 S E RV I N G S
This salad has it all: sweet, savory, spicy, salty! The Country Ham Potlikker provides an umami-rich base for a spicy vinaigrette. ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup chilled Country Ham Potlikker (see recipe above) 1 tsp. yellow mustard 1 15-oz. can cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed, divided ⅓ cup vegetable oil 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper 2 medium delicata squash, halved, seeds removed and reserved, sliced crosswise ½" thick 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper 1 large sweet-tart apple (such as Honeycrisp), cored, quartered, sliced ¼" thick 1 large fennel bulb, quartered, thinly sliced 1 15-oz. can kidney beans, rinsed ¼ cup chopped parsley Blend vinegar, potlikker, mustard, and ¼ cup cannellini beans in a blender until smooth. With the motor running, stream in vegetable oil; blend until emulsified. Season vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 400°. Divide sliced squash between 2 rimmed baking sheets; drizzle 2 Tbsp. olive oil over.
Bring ham, garlic, red pepper flakes, salt, and 1 quart water to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer, skimming foam from surface as needed, 1 hour. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Pick out ham and reserve for another use; discard remaining solids.
Potlikker can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool. Transfer to an airtight container and chill, or freeze up to 3 months. Makes about 2½ cups
Sprinkle with 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with pepper. Roast 15 minutes. Meanwhile, rinse squash seeds and pat dry. Toss seeds with cayenne and remaining 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a small bowl; season with salt. Sprinkle seeds over squash. Continue to roast until squash is golden brown and tender, 13–15 minutes more. Combine squash and seeds, apple, fennel, kidney beans, and remaining cannellini beans in a large bowl. Toss with ½ cup vinaigrette. Taste and add more vinaigrette if needed. Add parsley, season with salt, and toss again. Transfer salad to a platter; serve any remaining vinaigrette alongside.
Smothered Pork Chops in Potlikker Gravy 4 S E RV I N G S
These pork chops, simmered in Country Ham Potlikker and brightened with herbs, are Hall’s homage to Sunday suppers at her grandmother’s house. 1½ cups (or more) Country Ham Potlikker (see recipe above) 2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar 2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. ground allspice 1 tsp. mild-flavored (light) molasses ⅓ cup all-purpose flour 4 1"–1½"-thick bone-in pork chops Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ⅓ cup vegetable oil 2 medium onions, thinly sliced
DO AHEAD:
6–8 1 1 1½
garlic cloves, finely chopped Tbsp. finely chopped marjoram Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary tsp. finely chopped thyme, plus leaves for serving
Whisk together potlikker, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, allspice, molasses, and 1 cup water in a medium bowl; set potlikker mixture aside. Place flour in a shallow bowl. Pat pork chops dry; season with salt and pepper. Dredge chops in flour, shaking off excess, and transfer to a platter. Set remaining flour in bowl aside. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Working in 2 batches, cook pork chops until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side; transfer to a plate. Reduce heat to medium. Add onions and garlic; cook, stirring, until onions are softened, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Sprinkle reserved flour evenly over; cook, stirring often and scraping up any browned bits, until onions are beginning to brown, 6–8 minutes. Add reserved potlikker mixture; whisk until incorporated and lump-free. Bring to a boil, then add marjoram, rosemary, and 1½ tsp. thyme. Reduce heat to medium-low; return pork chops and any accumulated juices to pot. Cover and simmer until pork chops are tender, 70– 80 minutes. If gravy looks too thick, thin with more potlikker or water. Taste gravy and season with more salt as needed. Transfer pork chops to a platter; top with thyme leaves. 75
2 S M O K E D PA P R I K A A N D S U N - D R I E D TO M ATO P OT L I K K E R ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 cup garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ¼ cup smoked paprika ¼ cup sun-dried tomato paste 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper
Braised Chicken Thighs With Olives and Herbs 4 S E RV I N G S
Braised chicken is a great go-to dish for any night of the week, and it’s easy to vary the ingredients according to the season. At the tail end of winter, olives, lemon zest, and fresh herbs give a hint of warmer days ahead. 4–6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 6 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup canned diced tomatoes 1 cup Smoked Paprika and Sun-Dried Tomato Potlikker (see recipe above) 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ⅓ cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved ¼ cup coarsely chopped oregano ¼ cup coarsely chopped parsley 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Arrange chicken, skin side down, in skillet and cook, undisturbed, until skin is crisp and golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Turn chicken over and cook on other side until golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate, leaving fat behind. Add onions and garlic to skillet. Cook, stirring often, until onions are translucent and beginning to brown at the edges, 76
Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Cook onions and garlic, stirring often, until onions are translucent, 6–8 minutes. Add red pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add paprika and tomato paste; cook, stirring, until tomato paste is a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Stir in vinegar, salt, and 5 cups water; season with pepper. Increase heat
to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until flavors have melded, 30–35 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof bowl; discard solids. D O A H E A D : Potlikker can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool. Transfer to an airtight container and chill, or freeze up to 3 months. Makes about 1 quart
6–8 minutes. Reduce heat to mediumlow and stir in tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is jammy, 5–7 minutes. Stir in potlikker and red pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a simmer. Return chicken to skillet, arranging skin side up. Cover skillet and simmer until chicken is tender and cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of thighs should register 165°), 15–17 minutes. Uncover skillet; scatter olives, oregano, parsley, and lemon zest over chicken.
Brothy Pasta With Miso-Butter Turnips 6 S E RV I N G S
Turnips and their greens don’t get enough love in Hall’s opinion. Feel free to sub a dusting of smoked paprika for the spiced tomato dust. 2 Tbsp. freeze-dried tomato flakes or tomato powder ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more 2 bunches hakurei turnips (about 1½ lb. total), trimmed, greens reserved, cut into wedges 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. white miso 1 lb. orecchiette 1 quart Smoked Paprika and Sun-Dried Tomato Potlikker (see recipe above; add water if short)
Freshly ground black pepper Microgreens (optional) and shaved Pecorino Romano (for serving) S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
A spice mill or
mortar and pestle Grind tomato flakes, red pepper flakes, and ¼ tsp. salt in spice mill or with mortar and pestle to a fine powder. Transfer spiced tomato dust to an airtight container; set aside. Combine turnips, butter, sugar, and miso in a medium high-sided skillet. Pour in water to cover turnips halfway (about 1½ cups). Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve miso. Reduce heat to mediumlow; simmer, uncovered, until turnips are tender and liquid is reduced by half, 7–9 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente. Drain pasta, reserving 2 cups pasta cooking liquid. Meanwhile, bring potlikker to a boil in another large pot. Add turnip greens; cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in pasta; reduce heat and cook, thinning with reserved pasta cooking liquid as needed to keep the sauce slightly brothy, until pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, ladle pasta and greens into shallow bowls; top with reserved turnips and their sauce. Sprinkle reserved spiced tomato dust over; top with microgreens (if using) and Pecorino Romano.
This plant-based potlikker pulls tons of umami from a handful of pantry staples. Whole sun-dried tomatoes will work just fine; simply drain them (if needed) and finely chop before adding.
BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH OLIVES AND HERBS
SMOKED PA P R I K A A N D SUN-DRIED TOMATO POTLIKKER
B R OT H Y PA S TA WITH MISOBUTTER TURNIPS 77
LEMONY SPRING VEGETABLE AND BARLEY BOWL
SHRIMP AND GRITS WITH FENNEL POTLIKKER
Fennel is rarely used in broths because its anise flavor is so strong. Here Hall doubles down on those licorice notes by adding Pernod, an anise-based liqueur that’s a natural pairing with seafood and vegetables.
FENNEL POTLIKKER
3 F E N N E L P OT L I K K E R 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 large fennel bulb, cut into 8 wedges 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 Tbsp. Pernod ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Shrimp and Grits With Fennel Potlikker 4 S E RV I N G S
FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH.
Grits are rinsed, then mixed with the herbaceous Fennel Potlikker and cold water and boiled until soft, ensuring maximum creaminess without any dairy and bringing a new, unexpected depth to this spin on a classic. 2½ cups (or more) Fennel Potlikker (see recipe above), divided 1 cup stone-ground or regular yellow grits, rinsed, drained 1 bay leaf 3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided, plus more 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails on 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup finely chopped fennel stems 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 plum tomatoes, cored, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fennel fronds Combine 2 cups potlikker and 2 cups cold water in a medium saucepan; whisk in grits. Set pan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; add bay leaf and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, whisking often, until grits are thick and creamy, 40–45 minutes if using stone-ground grits or
Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Add onion, fennel, celery, and salt; cook, stirring often, until vegetables are translucent, about 4 minutes. Add Pernod and red pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until Pernod is evaporated, about 1 minute. Pour in 5 cups water and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to
20–25 minutes if using regular grits. Stir in 1 tsp. pepper and season with salt. Remove and discard bay leaf. Cover pan and keep grits warm over very low heat, whisking occasionally. Sprinkle shrimp with remaining 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and remaining 1 tsp. pepper. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Working in batches, add shrimp to skillet and cook until just opaque, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer shrimp to a plate. Reduce heat to medium. Add fennel stems to skillet; cook, stirring often, until starting to brown and soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and remaining ½ cup potlikker. Bring to a simmer and cook until tomatoes have begun to fall apart, about 5 minutes. Return shrimp to skillet and cook until opaque throughout, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper; remove skillet from heat. If grits have stiffened, loosen with a little more potlikker or water before dividing among bowls. Top with shrimp and sauce. Scatter fennel fronds over.
Lemony Spring Vegetable and Barley Bowl 4 S E RV I N G S
This one-pot dish is the essence of spring, bursting with tender green vegetables and bright flavors throughout. A note on barley: Pearl barley cooks in less time and is creamier,
medium-low and cook 45 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof bowl; discard solids. D O A H E A D : Potlikker can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool. Transfer to an airtight container and chill, or freeze up to 3 months. Makes about 3 cups
similar to arborio rice, while whole grain hulled barley is chewier and more nutritious (and is cooked in more liquid), comparable to whole farro. 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1" pieces 1 cup pearl barley 3 cups Fennel Potlikker (see recipe above; add water if short) 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 cup fresh or frozen green peas 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest ½ cup mint leaves Heat oil in a medium pot over medium. Cook asparagus, stirring often, until softened and bright green, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high and add barley to pot. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add potlikker and 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover pot, and simmer until barley is tender and doubled in size and liquid is absorbed, 25–30 minutes. Uncover pot and stir in peas. Cook until peas are tender and bright green, about 4 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and reserved asparagus; season with salt and pepper. Divide barley among bowls. Top with lemon zest and mint. 79
YOU DESERVE TO FEEL GOOD.
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S T E P-BYSTEPS
TIPS & TRICKS
Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)
Hot for Soup From the broth to the doodads on top, here’s how to make the most out of soup season
Chicken soup for the…you know. Get this recipe at bonappetit.com /chicken-soup
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN
by CAROLINE L ANGE
P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N
Basically
2
1
Soup’s Rule of 3
STOCK CAN BE SIMPLE Many wonderful stocks are built around a roster of ingredients, from bones and dried seafood to spices, veg scraps, and cheese rinds (see p. 48 for inspiration). But the pot needn’t always be a full house! This simple, speedy, and versatile version is made with just two vegetables (both alliums, of course) and is ready in under an hour.
If you’re just learning to cook, soup is a great place to start. And while there are infinite ways to succeed (and ample opportunities to experiment), these three elements will help ensure a delicious outcome: •Broth If a building is only as strong as its foundation, a soup is only as good as its broth. Begin with something that tastes great on its own, homemade or store-bought, and you’re well on your way. •Base Whether you’re starting
with a classic combo— sofrito, mirepoix, the Cajun trinity of onion, green bell pepper, and celery—or just a mishmash of vegetables from your fridge, these aromatics will infuse the whole pot. Sweat them slowly and gently for sweetness, or brown them deeply for a toastier, more savory backbone. •Time Many soups need
time—sometimes hours!—for the liquid to reduce and the flavors to meld. Don’t rush it. Even better, cook today and eat tomorrow.
3 Let the Oven Do the Hard Work
The harder the sear, the deeper the flavor
H E R E ’S H O W : Quarter 2 onions and halve 2 heads of garlic crosswise.
Heat a slick of olive oil in a large pot over medium, then add your alliums.
Cook, turning as needed, until lightly charred, 8–10 minutes.
Add 8 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer until golden, 30–40 minutes.
Strain, salt generously, and then proceed toward soup.
For a hands-off approach that concentrates flavor, consider the oven. Bake a halved winter squash, then discard the seeds, scoop out the flesh, and blend with broth. Or, for the tomatoiest tomato soup possible, start by roasting canned whole tomatoes until jammy in order to intensify their umami underpinnings. If you’re tired of babysitting dried beans, bring them to a simmer on the stove, then cover the pot and stick it in a 300° oven: The gentle all-around heat will cook them to tender perfection. And for the most savory meat stock, begin by browning the bones (and the veg too!) in the oven.
6 Improve on the Canned Stuff Canned = convenience. But a few twists and turns can make canned soup downright delightful. •Brown sausage or bacon, then add a can of lentil soup. •Sizzle red curry paste in oil, then stir in a can of tomato soup. Toss in a few shrimp at the end and serve with rice noodles. •Stir a pile of chopped tender herbs like cilantro and dill into any soup you please. •Soften a little garlic with crushed red pepper flakes in butter or olive oil before pouring in the minestrone. •Throw in a handful of fresh or frozen peas or chopped greens for color and oomph. •Simmer tomato-based soups with a hunk of Parmesan rind.
4
T H E T O P P I N G S A R E T H E B E S T PA R T To take soup from starter to supper, from snack to substance, have fun with what goes on top.
Crispy fried garlic chips or shallot rings
A pile of lime dressed shredded cabbage
A soft-cooked egg, broken open
Swirls of pesto or brown butter Pan-crisped cubes of Halloumi or paneer
7 Make It Creamy— Without Cream
T RY T H E S E: Cheese -topped toasts, cut into soldiers
•Wake up any canned soup with a splash of fresh citrus juice or vinegar.
Tadka with ghee, dried red chiles, cumin seeds, and asafetida
5 Freeze With Defrosting in Mind A freezer full of soup is an insurance policy against frantic what’sfor -dinners—unless the soup is a solid 8-cup berg that threatens to never thaw. There’s an easy solution: Freeze your soup in convenient quick-melting premeasured portions. Silicone Souper Cubes are like giant ice cube trays, with sizes that range from 2 tablespoons (great for tomato paste or grated ginger) to 2 cups (soups and broths of all kinds). Souper Cubes 2-Cup Freezing Tray With Lid, $20; amazon.com
A spoonful of salted plain yogurt The last crumbs from the bottom of the chip bag
It’s possible to replicate the silky richness of cream without drizzling in dairy—and to add even more flavor along the way. Blend in a big spoonful of nut or seed butter (peanut, almond, cashew, tahini), cooked beans, or a scoop of hummus. Or incorporate a peeled, boiled potato, cubes of crustless bread, or steamed or roasted cauliflower. If you’re not excited by puréed soup but you still crave creaminess, cook rice or barley in the stock for a porridge-like consistency, thicken it with a chickpea flour slurry, or mix in coconut milk or coconut cream for heat-cutting sweetness (see No. 8). MARCH 2022 – 83
Basically
9
ANY SOUP CAN BE EGG DROP SOUP From Chinese American egg drop to Roman stracciatella, some of the world’s great soups are finished with egg for added substance, richness, and flavor.
Start with any brothy soup. For each cup of broth, beat 1 egg with about 1 tsp. oil and 1 tsp. water in a spouted measuring cup. Now pick your path: For gossamer strands, beat in 1 tsp. vinegar, bring the soup to a boil, and pour in the egg while stirring slowly but decisively. For bigger egg pieces, skip the vinegar, remove soup from the heat, and pour a circle of egg around the pot’s edge. When it sets, push eggs to the center to make a soft blanket.
We’re indebted to chef Lucas Sin of Nice Day for his egg drop tips
8 If You’ve Got Coconut Milk and Vegetables, You’ve Got Soup The fridge is looking empty and dinnertime approaches. Good news: With a can of coconut milk and a pound of vegetables, soup’s on the horizon. •Sauté aromatics (onion, celery, carrots, ginger, lemongrass, garlic, shallots, leeks, a fresh chile), spices (cumin, coriander, turmeric, black pepper), and woody herbs (thyme and rosemary) in oil or butter. •Add any flavorful bases (like tomato paste, harissa, curry paste, sambal), then sizzle them in the fat.
•Pour in coconut milk, refill that can with broth (or water), add to the pot, and bring to a simmer. •Cook until your vegetables are tender, then blend to your desired texture, season to taste, and top with anything from No. 4! 84 – MARCH 2022
10 Soupify Your Leftovers With the addition of broth, nearly any vexing leftover can become soup. A bit of broth can turn cooked beans—plus olive oil, canned tomatoes, and a handful of ditalini— into pasta e fagioli. It can transform caramelized onions into imitation French onion soup (add cheesy toast), and it can reshape cooked grains, sautéed greens, and roast chicken into a makeshift pot of comforting chicken and rice. Hey, with a little broth, even last night’s pasta with meatballs can emerge as tonight’s tomato soup with noodles.
FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS
•Add about 1 lb. vegetables, fresh or frozen—corn, peas, leafy greens, cubed squash, a couple cans of tomatoes— and stir to coat.
recipe index
BAKE THE COVER
Chocolate-Matcha Butter Mochi Cake p. 66 SALAD
Bean and Vegetable Salad With Potlikker Vinaigrette p. 75 MAIN COURSES SEAFOOD
Green Chile Shrimp Scampi With Spaghetti p. 43 Shrimp and Grits With Fennel Potlikker p. 79
Swordfish With Asparagus and Beans p. 18 MEAT
Mustardy Sausage and Halloumi StirFry p. 46 Skillet Cheesesteak With Broccoli Rabe p. 46 Smothered Pork Chops in Potlikker Gravy p. 75 PASTA
Brothy Pasta With Miso-Butter Turnips p. 76
Green Chile Shrimp Scampi With Spaghetti p. 43 Weeknight Puttanesca p. 14 POULTRY
Braised Chicken Thighs With Olives and Herbs p. 76 Chicken-Bacon Smash Burgers p. 16 Spiced Chicken and Dates With Endive p. 43
VEGE TARIAN
Baked Eggs and Greens in Harissa Tomato Sauce p. 43 Brothy Pasta With Miso-Butter Turnips p. 76 Lemony Spring Vegetable and Barley Bowl p. 79 Roasted Roots With Green Salsa p. 12 VEGETABLE, SIDE DISH
Roasted Roots With Green Salsa p. 12
MISCELLANEOUS
Country Ham Potlikker p. 75 Fennel Potlikker p. 79 Herbal Mushroom Broth p. 52 Mala Beef Broth p. 53 Smoked Paprika and Sun-Dried Tomato Potlikker p. 76 DESSERTS
Chocolate-Matcha Butter Mochi Cake p. 66
Coconut-MangoLime Barfi p. 62 Guava-Grapefruit Possets p. 65 Lactation Cookies p. 32 Mini Knafeh With Rose and Pistachio p. 69 Passion Fruit Bars p. 65 Preserved-Lemon Tea Cake p. 62 Raspberry-Tahini Thumbprint Cookies p. 69
bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2022 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 67, no. 2. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Jackie Marks, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email BNAcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@ condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.
86 – MARCH 2022
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY STEPHANIE YEH.
The best Southern comfort dishes start with potlikker. P. 70
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APRIL TRAVEL ISSUE FOR STORIES AND RECIPES FROM CALIFORNIA’S COACHELLA VALLEY, PARIS, ITALY’S PIEDMONT REGION, MEXICO CITY, AND BEYOND
Julian Fellowes’s Dream Dinner Party Over coronation chicken and crepes Suzette, the creator of TV’s The Gilded Age would listen to how his esteemed guests overcame the naysayers
Want to channel Fellowes’s English heritage st yle? Tr y Wedgwood’s turquoise -trimmed Florentine Dinner Plates ($115 each, amazon.com)
D I N N E R PA R T I E S were never dull in Downton Abbey, Julian Fellowes’s breakout upstairs-downstairs drama. And they surely are not in his latest show, The Gilded Age, or his new film, Downton Abbey: A New Era, either. Here the author, screenwriter, director, baron, and member of the U.K.’s House of Lords reveals who he’d have at his own fantasy fête. — D AW N D AV I S
You have two period pieces out now which focus on New York and English society. Which group of characters would you prefer to party with?
New York would have been more fun. At the time, the ways of the English were all quite settled and seemingly lowenergy. But in New York, Mrs. Astor had forged this new society, mixing the old families and the old money with the new arrivals who came with 88 – MARCH 2022
great fortunes and built their palaces up and down Fifth Avenue. Their parties, with people like Alva Vanderbilt and Jay Gould, would have been pretty good fun. If you could invite any three people—dead or alive—who would they be and why?
Apart from my wife, of course, I’d have to invite Marilyn Monroe. The thing about movie stars is in order to be emotionally moving, they must convey a sense of needing the viewer’s help. Marilyn had that more than anyone. You wanted to get her safely through the story. I’d also invite Ella Fitzgerald, my all-time favorite singer. There was mastery in the way she took possession of a song. I’d also like to learn what it was like to be a Black woman who was a huge star at a time of ubiquitous racist persecution. Like the time she was traveling to Australia for one of her greatest tours, and she and her
companions were thrown off the plane. The third guest would be novelist Anthony Trollope. I’m president of the Trollope Society, and while many look down on him, as if he were writing soap operas instead of proper dramas, I believe he had a much more modern take on people. His heroines were never all good—they’re not Dickens’s sainted angels wearing white—and his villains were never all bad. Like Thomas Barrow from Downton Abbey, a perfect villain. Where do you host?
In my dining room in Dorset, with its long table and Gothic chairs. We’d use the china with the family crest and turquoise trim, and the room would be lit with silver candlesticks. What do you serve?
We’d start with ice-chilled vichyssoise, followed by coronation chicken, a cold dish with a sauce made out
of cream, mayonnaise, apricot jam, onions, and curry. It was invented for the present queen’s coronation and is absolutely delicious. For dessert, crepes Suzette with Cointreau in it, served with a glass of Beaumes-de-Venise. What’s the opening conversation starter?
These guests and I have been up against people who didn’t believe in us. Producer Darryl Zanuck and others didn’t think Monroe was really an actress. Ella Fitzgerald was rejected by the establishment. I’ve had my material dismissed by many. You have to find your own faith in yourself. When I meet young people who are in a similar situation, I say to them, “Stay away from those who don’t believe in you. Later on, when your career has fallen into place, you can pick them up again. But in the beginning, there is a limit to how much negativity you can withstand.”
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY L AU R E N TA M A K I
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