BA - January 2015 by Lawrence Ambrocio

BON APPÉTIT • VOLUME 60 NUMBER 1

T H E N E W H E A LT H Y 2 0 1 5

Breakfast just got a whole lot more interesting. RECIPES BY ALISON ROMAN

Meet the cult of cold-press devotees at L.A.’s Moon Juice.

OH YEAH!

OUR BEAUTIFUL LUNCHEONETTE

P. 42

BAR CODE

What does a health food restaurant look like these days? The chic El Rey in New York City.

Packaged protein bricks are for bodybuilders and billionaires; these (delicious!) bars are for the rest of us. BY DAWN PERRY

Avocado toast was just the beginning. RECIPES BY DAWN PERRY

Totally tasty, sort of good for you: the nut- and seedpacked desserts you should make—now. RECIPES BY ALISON ROMAN

TOAST POINTS

Like the look of this picturesque Oahu beach? Just wait until you see the shave ice.

GENERATION JUICE

VEG IN

The textures! The colors! The flavors! These vegetable sides will take center stage. RECIPES BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

SWEET-ISH

SHELF LIFE

Pantry staples as hip as they are healthy. BY BELLE CUSHING

ALT-MAINS

Cali-cool, veg-forward, Mediterraneanspiced mains from wandering chef Sara Kramer.

TOAST THE COVER!

Our kind of math: toasted seeded bread + labneh + olive oil–toasted hazelnuts + salt and pepper + honey = Muesli Toast

4 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIN KUNKEL

ON THE COVER Photograph by Peden + Munk. Food styling by Rebecca Jurkevich. Prop styling by Kim Ficaro.

B O N A P P E T I T. C O M

STA RT E R S

T H E B A K I TC H E N

C O LU M N S

THE FOODIST

Trend Forecast 2015: Andrew Knowlton’s calling for a 100% chance of bacalao.

THE BA Q&A

THE NEW HEALTHY

Get right with our 5th annual Food Lover’s Cleanse. BY SARA DICKERMAN

Whisk-y business with fashionista Leandra Medine.

R.S.V.P.

Reader requests and editor favorites.

NAVIGATOR

Go for the beaches, stay for the loco moco: eating Oahu.

PREP SCHOOL

Sprouts, spice blends, and the fried egg our boss won’t stop talking about.

104

BACK OF THE NAPKIN

Talking shellfish trauma with director Tim Burton. BY ANDREW PARKS

IN EVERY ISSUE

THE DRINK

10 editor’s letter 102 recipe index 102 sourcebook

New year, new sommeliers.

OJ is OK, but a freshly made matcha smoothie is how we want to kick-start our day. P. 52

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KIM FICARO.

LOVE LETTER

THE TEST DRIVE

Putting the latest at-home juicers through their paces. BY JOANNA SCIARRINO

The best U.S. salts from coast to coast.

Briny back-pocket pasta, silky pan sauce, and more. BY ALISON ROMAN

Big Eyes star Krysten Ritter on her very special diet. BY ANDREW PARKS

THEY’RE EVERYWHERE

FAST, EASY, FRESH

“Seed bars: hemp, flax, chia, sunflower, and pepitas bound together with brown rice syrup, sometimes with figs or cranberries.”

—M.L.

Editor in Chief

ADAM RAPOPORT Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN Executive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE Digital Director STACEY C. RIVERA Managing Editor GREG FERRO Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC

Deputy Editor SCOTT DESIMON Restaurant & Drinks Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Associate Restaurant Editor JULIA KRAMER Assistant Editor JOANNA SCIARRINO Editorial Assistant BELLE CUSHING Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON Deputy Art Director MIKE LEY Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN Photo Director ALEX POLLACK Photo Editor JULIA DUQUETTE PORTER Associate Photo Editor RACHEL TOMLINSON Staff Photographer ALEX LAU Photo Assistant ELIZABETH JAIME OSCOFF Digital Food Editor DAWN PERRY Senior Food Editor ALISON ROMAN Associate Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE

“Much to my boss’s chagrin, nothing slakes my 3 p.m. hunger like a can of Bela sardines. A few crackers, and I’m golden ’til dinner.”

—A.S.

Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ Assistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY Copy Chief GREG ROBERTSON Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHY Assistant to the Editor in Chief AMIEL STANEK

Editor, Bonappetit.com RAPHAEL BRION Senior Web Editor CAREY POLIS Web Writer ROCHELLE BILOW Digital Art Director ALICIA BROOKS Senior Digital Project Manager KAITLYN WONG Web Developer DANYLO BERKO Associate Developer MELISSA FINKELSTEIN Contributors DITTE ISAGER, REBECCA JURKEVICH, DAVID LYNCH, MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, ANDY WARD; JACKIE OURMAN (TEST KITCHEN); RANDY HARTWELL, CARA CANNELLA (RESEARCH); COREY MARSEY, BEN VINA, SHELLEY WOLSON (TABLET); LILLI SHERMAN (PUBLIC RELATIONS) Executive Director, Public Relations & Events FREDERIKA BROOKFIELD Associate Director, Public Relations DAN ALDWORTH Artistic Director

ANNA WINTOUR

Vice President & Publisher

PAMELA DRUCKER MANN Associate Publisher, Integrated Marketing ERIC JOHNSON, Associate Publisher JENNIFER MCCORMICK PANAWEK, Head of Digital Strategy CRAIG KOSTELIC Advertising Directors JULIA HAWKINS, JORDANA PRANSKY Director of Finance & Business Operations SYLVIA W. CHAN

“Kind bars ADVERTISING NEW YORK or pumpkin seed Executive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICK Account Director STEFANIE BERGER crackers, courtesy Account Director, Beauty & Luxury JEANNIE LIVESAY of the one and only Account Director ELLEN BENNETT Hannah Micley.” Sales Development Director ANDREA CORBETT —B.L. Business Manager DAMON GONZALEZ Executive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSEN Business Coordinator STEPHANIE SONG Sales Assistants JEHOSHUA BROWN, ELIZABETH BUXTON, GISELLE CONTRERAS, BRIDGET LAPOINT, SUSIE STOKLOSA, HANNAH STRUMWASSER, ANDREA VOTH INTEGRATED MARKETING & CREATIVE SERVICES Executive Director, Integrated Marketing & Creative Development CAROLYN MONTROSE Executive Director, Integrated Marketing COURTNEY WARCO VERDIER Executive Director, Digital Sales and Marketing SCOTT LAINE Senior Integrated Marketing Director RACHEL DURST Integrated Marketing Directors CASEY MCCARTHY, EVA KARAGORIAS Associate Marketing Director HILLARY SMITH Associate Director, Integrated Marketing HAYLEY RUSSMAN Senior Managers, Integrated Marketing ALEX HOPSON, CAITLIN JENNINGS, TARA MELVIN Integrated Marketing Manager STEVEN MARINOS Marketing Coordinator KELLY QUACKENBUSH Design Director CARLOS QUINTERO Art Director AMI POURANA Special Events Director NIKKI REISS Senior Special Events Manager JAMIE RUDOLPH Senior Special Events Coordinator JENNIFER CASSEL Marketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY THE BON APPÉTIT CULINARY STUDIO Executive Chef MARY NOLAN BRANCH OFFICES Canada BOB DODD, DODD MEDIA Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Los Angeles CRISTINA THOMPSON, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z-MEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY

PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST

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S. I. NEWHOUSE, JR. CHARLES H. TOWNSEND ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR.

IT’S 3 P.M. WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO HEALTHY SNACK?

“Smashed avocado with plantain chips, a healthy nod to my Cuban heritage. Plus, avocados are always in season here in California.”

—C.T.

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editor’s letter Load up on the veg, like this crisp broccolini.

WATCH ADAM AND ANDREW KNOWLTON ON BRAVO’S BEST NEW RESTAURANT, WEDNESDAYS AT 10 P.M. (PREMIERES JANUARY 21).

Get the recipes for Adam’s meal at bonappetit.com /edletter

Restaurant portions no longer fly at home. Meet rib eye for two.

Here’s how I know I just turned 45: Come Friday evening, around 5:30, I’m not thinking about a drink at some Midtown post-work bar, or that party I just got wind of—I’m thinking about my kitchen island. Yes, I am now that guy. I can taste the well-chilled glass of Grüner I’ll pour myself, I can hear the Avett Brothers album I’m going to play, and I can feel the heft of the walnut cutting board I’ll pull from that narrow cabinet next to the range. Friday night is cooking night in the Rapoport-Shubuck household. No plans, no guests, no rush. Just Simone and me (and, well, Marlon, who’s in bed by 8—or at least he’d better be). There’s a bunch of quality ingredients piled on that island, a good but nottoo-pricey bottle of wine, and the time not just to enjoy a great meal, but to enjoy the act of cooking it. Of course, now that Simone and I are no longer in our twenties, we try to be a little more sensible about what’s for dinner. We still want something that feels special, but we don’t need all the empty calories and unnecessarily rich dishes (sorry, creamy polenta and pasta carbonara—it was a great run). Now when I stop by the market, I double down on seasonal vegetables. And when it comes to choosing a protein for the meal, I think quality instead of quantity; I’ll splurge on a dryaged rib eye or a bone-in Berkshire pork chop, sear it in a cast-iron skillet, and serve it sliced atop a medley of fresh herbs. Meat like this—well marbled and flavorful—goes a lot further. Simone and I will split about 12 to 14 ounces of meat, which is what a restaurant today might normally serve for one. For sides, I’m currently loving broccolini, quickly blanched in boiling salted water, then doused with fresh lemon juice, a splash of olive oil, salt, and some chile flakes. Bright and crisp. On the other side of the flavor spectrum, I’ll roast a tray of fennel wedges till beautifully caramelized. And then? Well, we talk and eat and appreciate that we’re exactly where we want to be—not at a party, but right at home. This is 45.

ADAM RAPOPORT EDITOR IN CHIEF

1 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPH BY JARREN VINK

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN. CUSTOM CUTTING BOARD FROM LIVEWIREFORM.COM, PRICE UPON REQUEST.

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHT

r. s.v.p. READERS SOUND OFF

Hangover Helpers Our Facebook readers shared their morning-after cures. Take note for New Year’s Day.

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I COULD EAT THE MONKEY BREAD AT SALT AIR IN L.A. EVERY DAY FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE. —DANIELLE WALSH, San Francisco

PECAN MONKEY BREAD 6 SERVINGS Infinitely better if made with an all-butter puff pastry; we like Dufour. CRÈME ANGLAISE

1 ½ 2 3

cup heavy cream vanilla bean, halved lengthwise large egg yolks Tbsp. granulated sugar

“Full English breakfast— kill or cure.”

bowl back into cream in saucepan. Cook over medium-low, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until sauce is thickened and coats spoon, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl; let cool. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving. MONKEY BREAD AND ASSEMBLY Preheat

MONKEY BREAD AND ASSEMBLY

Nonstick vegetable oil spray cup pecans cup granulated sugar tsp. ground cinnamon cup (packed) light brown sugar cup unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup golden raisins 1 package puff pastry, thawed All-purpose flour (for surface) ½ ½ ½ ½ ¼

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT : 1 jumbo 6-cup

muffin pan CRÈME ANGLAISE Place cream in a small saucepan and scrape in vanilla seeds. Heat over medium until just simmering, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Whisk yolks and granulated sugar in a medium bowl until pale and light, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk half of cream into yolk mixture. Then whisk mixture in 1 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

oven to 350°. Coat muffin cups with nonstick spray. Toast pecans on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop. Stir granulated sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl; set aside. Bring brown sugar, butter, and ½ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Pour syrup into muffin cups. Top with pecans and raisins. Gently roll out pastry on a lightly floured surface just to smooth. For a 14-oz. package, fold sheet in half. For a 17.3-oz. package, stack sheets. Cut pastry into an 8x6 grid to make 48 squares. Roll into balls; toss in cinnamon sugar. Fill muffin cups with balls; press lightly to compact. Bake until pastry is golden brown and puffed, 25–30 minutes. Let cool slightly, but unmold before caramel hardens. Serve monkey bread, caramel side up, on a pool of crème anglaise.

BEVERLEY W., Surrey, UK

“Pho + Water = Comeback.”

KYUNGSOO STEFAN K., Seoul, South Korea

“Taylor Ham, egg, and cheese on a hard roll.”

BARI LYN G.,

Morristown, NJ

“Any leftover pride from the previous night.”

CORIN G.,

Manchester, UK

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (MONKEY BREAD, OCTOPUS); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (HANGOVER, SMALL OCTOPUS). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

“Menudo, a cold beer, and two Tylenol.” IDA M., Whittier, CA

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com, or use the hashtag #bonapprsvp on Twitter or Instagram. Submissions become the property of Bon Appétit.

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, THE OPTIMIST IN ATLANTA HAS A CHARRED OCTOPUS DISH THAT IS PHENOMENAL. ANY GUIDANCE ON HOW TO RE-CREATE IT? —PHANZY PHAN, Atlanta

SPICY CHARRED OCTOPUS 6 SERVINGS Braising octopus might sound advanced, but it’s as easy as simmering a pot of beans. See sidebar at right for more encouragement. CHILI SAUCE

2 1 1 ½ 2 1 1

garlic cloves 1" piece ginger, peeled red Thai chile cup hot chili paste Tbsp. fish sauce Tbsp. fresh lime juice Tbsp. gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder) 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

INGREDIENT INFO: Gochugaru can

be found in Korean markets. OCTOPUS AND ASSEMBLY

6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling 1 medium onion, chopped 1 carrot, peeled, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 2 tsp. coriander seeds 2 tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika 1 750-ml bottle Cabernet Sauvignon ½ cup red wine vinegar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 5–6 lb. octopus, cleaned, head and beak removed 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 cup torn fresh tender herbs (such as basil, mint, and/or cilantro) 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt CHILI SAUCE Purée garlic, ginger,

chile, chili paste, fish sauce, lime juice, gochugaru, and vinegar in a blender until smooth. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.

OCTOPUS AND ASSEMBLY Heat 4 Tbsp.

oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Cook onion, carrot, and celery, stirring often, until softened, 8–10 minutes. Add coriander seeds and paprika and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add wine, vinegar, and 6 cups water; season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Add octopus to liquid, reduce heat, and partially cover pot. Simmer gently, turning octopus occasionally, until flesh is tender enough to cut with a spoon, 60–75 minutes. Transfer octopus to a platter with a slotted spoon; let cool. Rub off skin with paper towels. Separate tentacles and cut into equal lengths. Heat a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat. Toss octopus with 1 Tbsp. oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook, turning occasionally, until charred, 8–10 minutes. Brush with chili sauce (you may not use all of it) and cook, turning occasionally, until sauce is deeply caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and toss with butter to coat. Toss herbs, lime juice, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Swipe yogurt across plates and top with octopus, then herb salad; drizzle with more oil. DO AHEAD: Octopus can be braised 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Tentacle Tactics Before you tackle this eight-limbed creature, here’s a pep talk from The Optimist’s executive chef, Adam Evans.

SEA FOR YOURSELF “People think of octopus as a restaurant dish, and while it’s definitely popping up on a ton of menus these days, it’s easier to prepare at home than you’d think.”

FRESH ISN’T (NECESSARILY) BEST “Almost all octopus comes frozen, and frozen actually cooks up more tender than fresh.”

I learned my trick at Craft in New York City. The Italians swear by it: When slow-cooking in wine, put the actual wine cork in the braising liquid to cook along with the octopus. It’s one of those tricks that no one can explain, but your octopus will come out super tender.”

PATIENCE LEADS TO PROWESS “This slow braise is fail-proof and really impressive, too. Who’s ever been to a dinner party where the host says, ‘Hey, I’ve got charred octopus on the menu tonight’? That’s the point. This is a wow dish.”

UNCORK A SECRET “There are so many different theories about how to keep octopus tender and not rubbery or tough—beating it over a rock in Greece, or massaging it with salt and whacking it with a daikon radish in Japan—but JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 3

JAN

Y UAR

20 1 5

WHERE GREAT TASTE BEGINS

Grab a gyro! Specifically the chicken one from Souvla in San Francisco

THE YEAR IN PREVIEW

2015 What will we be eating, drinking, and carrying on about over the next 365 days? Restaurant and drinks editor Andrew Knowlton consults his crystal (high) ball

PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIN KUNKEL

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 5

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The

FOODIST

Before salt cod ends up in croquettes and on pizza, it must be soaked.

2015 TREND EDITION

You’ll Get Wrapped Up in Gyros

Done right, the gyro is a world-class sandwich: a poem of crispy spitroasted meat wrapped in a pillowy pita and bathed in bright, cooling tzatziki. And we’re finally nailing it in the U.S. The four takes from Souvla in San Francisco (see below) and the inspired pork-belly version at Publican Quality Meats in Chicago remind me why a carefully crafted gyro was my go-to lunch and dinner when I studied in Greece. Thanks to them, I now have full faith in America’s gyro-making prowess. 2

NITRO COFFEE WILL BLOW UP COLD BREW Just when you thought you’d figured out iced coffee, this latest take (pioneered in part by the obsessives at Stumptown) hits coffee counters. Pulled from a tap, nitro is cold brew infused with nitrogen to create a smoother, creamier drink. (Think Guinness with a different kind of buzz.) But before you guzzle three of them, be warned: They are caffeine bombs.

4 Big-Deal Chefs Will Feed You Tacos

When I used to ask chefs where they were dying to eat, it would be Barcelona or Copenhagen. Now the answer is invariably Mexico. Their discoveries are tomorrow’s dinners, which means lots of newfangled and classic tacos like these:

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3 Bacalao: the Catch of the Year Dried salt cod (bacalao) looks like a lastresort snack for those “beyond the wall” on Game of Thrones. But rehydrated, its subtle cod flavor and slightly chewy texture have chefs (and me) craving it. Already atop pizza (Bouli Bar, SF), on a sandwich (Wallflower, NYC), and in ravioli (BOKA, Chicago), there’s no telling what crazy-delicious ways bacalao will come to the table in 2015.

ENRIQUE OLVERA

SEAN BROCK

Cosme, NYC

Minero, Charleston

Tataki al pastor taco with pineapple and cilantro

Fried whiting taco with pickled green tomato tartare

PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIN KUNKEL (GYROS); DANNY KIM (NITRO, BACALAO, MARIJUANA, COCKTAIL)

Souvla’s gyro spread (top to bottom): chicken with pea shoots; lamb leg with harissa-spiked yogurt; pork shoulder; white sweet potato

It’s only a matter of time (and legislation) before marijuana starts making its way onto restaurant menus. Spaghetti with pot pesto, anyone? Nothing too strong, of course. Just enough to alter your state of mind—and taste buds. I mean, c’mon. Is it really any different than a bottle of Burgundy? 5

THE NEXT BIG HERB...IS HERB

Shake Shack Will Conquer the Planet The burger-andfries juggernaut has 56 global locations and more on the way. Hey, fast food isn’t going away, so why not make it better tasting and responsibly sourced?

The more sophisticated marijuana agriculture becomes, the more control growers will have over all kinds of nuances and flavor notes. Let’s think about it the way we think about wine or cheese—as a product that reflects the place where it came from—and see what we can do with this in edible terms.” —FRANK FALCINELLI, FRANKIES 457, BROOKLYN

RESTAURANT NAMES WILL FOLLOW THIS FORMULA

A gajillion new places to eat will open this year. Here’s how many of them will get their (weirdly similar) names.

YOUR NEW SECRET WEAPON? CRÈME DE PAMPLEMOUSSE

I’m betting that this grapefruit liqueur will be the next essential cocktail fix—making every drink it touches a little better. Its mildly sweet, immensely aromatic, and distinctly refreshing flavor will make it your pour of the year. Want to kick-start my prediction? Make a Mae Rose Cocktail tonight.

Combine 1 ½ oz. London dry gin (we like Tanqueray), 1 oz. dry vermouth (preferably Dolin), ½ oz. Campari, and ½ oz. grapefruit liqueur (such as Combier Crème de Pamplemousse Rose) in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Stir until shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a grapefruit twist. Makes 1

MAE ROSE COCKTAIL

YOUR SPIRIT ANIMAL or GRANDMA’S NAME or FAVORITE INGREDIENT What else to do with grapefruit liqueur? See Prep School, page 98.

LUXURY or PROVISIONS or LUNCHEONETTE OPTIONAL:

Add &, Co., or Sons

PAUL KAHAN

TRACI DES JARDINS

Dove’s Luncheonette, Chicago

Arguello, San Francisco

Brisket taco with green chile vinaigrette

Carne asada taco with onions, rajas, beans, and ranchera salsa

SEA OTTER & SONS LUXURY ANISE HYSSOP PROVISIONS ‘MA KNOWLTON’S LUNCHEONETTE JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 7

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FOODIST

On Tap? Third-Wave Beer Bars

2015 TREND EDITION

Bring bing bread home with Parachute’s recipe; go to bonappetit .com/bing

What comes after the brewpub? Stylish beer-nerd nirvanas featuring specialized glassware (no pint glasses!), sleek taps made of wood or chrome, and destinationworthy food. If Tørst in Brooklyn, Edmund’s Oast in Charleston, and Dusek’s in Chicago are any indication, these grown-up bars should be your new spot for a cold one.

The Scandi style at Brooklyn’s Tørst.

9 Everyone Will Be Craving Bing Bread

GOOD BARS WILL SAVE BAD COCKTAILS

Each year there’s one dish that spreads like wildfire across menus. In 2015, I’m hoping it’s Chinese bing bread, a.k.a. shaobing, a flaky flatbread often eaten at breakfast. At Parachute in Chicago, it’s made with baked potato, stuffed with bacon and scallion, and served with sour cream butter. Chefs, please start copying!

YOU’LL LAP UP TONGUE

Squid. Sweetbreads. Sunchokes. Uni. Remember those ingredients you never thought you’d like but now dig? Well, add one more to that list: beef tongue. Perhaps you’ve already had it tucked inside a tortilla or grilled, sliced thin, and served with freshly grated horseradish. Unlike a lot of other daredevil foods eaten for street cred, tongue is delicious. Heck, it’s a muscle, just like filet mignon. And get this: It tastes better. Now, I’m not asking you to cook it (please don’t google!); I’m asking you to try it...you’ll like it!

13 Kolache Triumph Over Cronuts

Grasshopper at Pépé Le Moko in Portland, OR

In 2015 I’m going to be drinking more Long Island Iced Teas, White Russians, and other ’70s throwbacks. What bartenders did for classic cocktails (better ingredients, better technique), they’ll do for these muchmaligned drinks. Don’t laugh when the cool kids start sipping Amaretto Sours.

The one baked good I’ll stand in line for? Kolache. Based on fruit-filled pastries from Central Europe, these filled dough pockets are a Texas-by-way-of-theCzech-Republic tradition. Whenever I’m in Houston, I grab a few stuffed with things like jalapeño, cheese, and sausage. The kolache craze is spreading as spots like St. Philip in Austin and Kings Kolache in Brooklyn push the envelope with fillings like black beans, corn, and chorizo. If you need me, I’ll be in line. Smoked beef with cheddar and candied jalapeño is one of 20 varieties at Brooklyn Kolache Co.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: DANNY KIM (BING BREAD, KOLACHE); ALEX LAU (TØRST); STUART MULLENBERG (GRASSHOPPER). ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

The

The BA Q&A Do you make resolutions? “Yes. Last year I gave up wine and stuck with it. I also cut out gluten, dairy, and fish.” Wow. Why? “I was getting sick a lot and couldn’t figure out why. I act and run a production company—two very full-time jobs. Everyone’s response to that is always, ‘Do less.’ Well, I need to feel amazing all the time so I can do more. So I cut all those things out and I haven’t been sick since.”

QUESTIONS FOR

Krysten Ritter The star of the film Big Eyes has given up wine, dairy, gluten, and fish. But try a fad diet? Not a chance

You gave everything up at once? “Yep. I was scared because I wasn’t sure what was left to eat. But it’s been fun getting out of my box. The only time it totally sucks is at the airport. The first time I flew, I forgot to bring food from home and had to eat a bag of apricots. It was awful.”

“There are great gluten-free pastas now— especially fresh ones—that totally compete with regular pasta. Pizza is the one thing I haven’t figured out. Gluten-free, dairy-free pizza just isn’t the same. The crust is either too sweet or the texture is weird and gross. Pho is another favorite.”

Living in L.A., you must juice. “Somebody was making fun of the juice culture being out of control in Los Angeles, and I was like, ‘What does that even mean? So we’re healthy!’ I’ve been into it for a long time.”

Any favorite flavor combinations? “All greens. I don’t have a sweet tooth, so I stay away from anything with too much apple or agave. I’m more into kale, spinach, parsley, cucumber, and celery. That’s my jam.”

You grew up on a farm in Pennsylvania. What was that like? “There were cattle and chickens, vegetables—it was a 100-acre fifth-generation family-run farm. Just adorable, the kind you draw in kindergarten with the barn and the tractor.”

What’s a dish you miss from your New York modeling days? “The vegan ‘eggs’ Benedict at Champs in Brooklyn. It’s gangbusters. I actually miss living there so much. There’s cool kids everywhere, cool food, no stupid paparazzi.”

Have you ever done a fad diet? “No. I’m not good at deprivation.”

Are you a dietary outlier in your family? “I am, but they’re coming around. Getting them to eat kale was mind-blowing. For a while, everything in their fridge or cupboard was from a commercial.” —INTERVIEW BY ANDREW PARKS

What’s the juice Krysten is sipping? See “Generation Juice,” page 74.

For video of Krysten dishing on her secret blender soup, go to bonappetit.com/celebs

THE VITALS Age 33 Hometown Shickshinny, PA Most memorable food prop Antacids and oatmeal on Breaking Bad Her big break Being discovered in a shopping mall at age 15 Her dog’s big break A PETA commercial PHOTOGRAPH BY JUCO

PROP STYLING BY NICK FAIELLA. MAKEUP BY JAMIE GREENBERG FOR MARK COSMETICS AT THE WALL GROUP. HAIR BY PAMELA NEAL FOR EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS USING AVEDA. WARDROBE STYLING BY JIMI URQUIAGA. DRESS BY GUCCI. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

What would you tell someone who wants to eat better without feeling deprived?

They’re Everywhere

From Sea to Salty Sea

Maldon isn’t the only sea salt in the world, you know. Some of the best flakes are now found on our very own watery shores

AMAGANSETT SEA SALT CO.

J.Q. DICKINSON SALT-WORKS

MAINE SEA SALT CO.

Sourced from Atlantic waters off Long Island, NY, this salt hits the palate like Pop Rocks and tastes like a sea breeze. amagansett seasalt.com

Two siblings glean these shimmery crystals from an ancient ocean underneath the Appalachian Mountains in West Virginia. jqdsalt.com

Sprinkle fudge with a few of these pebble-like clusters made from the seawater of Buck’s Harbor; they’re coarse enough to maintain their crunch. maineseasalt.com

NORTH FORK SEA SALT CO.

SAN JUAN ISLAND SEA SALT

JACOBSEN SALT CO.

These damp flakes taste like swallowing a mouthful of East Coast seawater—in a good way. Crumble some onto fish. northfork seasaltco.com

These dense rocks are formed through solar evaporation (rather than boiling) in greenhouses in Washington. sanjuanisland seasalt.com

If anyone can be called a salt icon, it’s Oregonian Ben Jacobsen, whose near-translucent flakes are beloved by chefs. jacobsensalt.com 7

ADMIRALTY SALT COMPANY These flecks are hand-harvested from the cold currents of the Strait of Juan de Fuca off Whidbey Island, WA. admiraltysalt.com

by JULIA KRAMER 2

BULLS BAY SALTWORKS

Consider these massive diamonds— from Bulls Bay near Charleston, SC— the Papa Bear of the sea salt family. bullsbaysalt works.com

7 5

THE UNITED STATES OF SALT

2 1 3 8

“We exclusively use Jacobsen for finishing dishes. Don’t use it to season pasta water or blanch vegetables—that would be ridiculous.” —Chef Chris Cosentino, Cockscomb, SF 2 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM

FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

Love Letter MATCHA MADE IN HEAVEN

To make frothy, delicious matcha magic, you gotta put some muscle into it. Fashion star and green tea convert Leandra Medine explains

bamboo tea whisk. If I had a dog named Toto, this is when I’d tell him we weren’t drinking Tazo anymore. At the time, I knew almost nothing about matcha, the powdered form of green tea, and even less about how it is prepared and consumed. Still, this struck me as an invitation to drink interactively, and in spite of my laughable inability to so much as prepare a glass of water, I was willing to try. With a small serving spoon,

I dropped a ration of the powder into the bowl, filled it with hot water, and began the task of mixing the two. Until that point in my life, I had used two whisks: metal and electric. Now I was presented with an archaic tool that seemed to be a totem of tea drinking: Do it right or don’t do it at all. I whisked faster and more assiduously as the narrow, bendy prongs bounced up and down, creating an inviting layer of foam. I deemed the tea ready for drinking

when I realized that my arm was exhausted. It’s now been nine months since the ultrahealthy matcha and I first fell in love. In that time, I have attempted to take our relationship to the next level— mastering matcha smoothies, matcha yogurt, matcha cupcakes, and matcha meatloaf (a mistake), much to the fascination of those around me. The way I see it, in nine months you can effectively do two things: have a baby or get to know your matcha really, really well.

Three steps to steamy, foamy, greenmustachioed perfection: 1 Place ¼ tsp. matcha into a small bowl and use whisk to gently break up clumps. 2 Slowly pour ⅓ cup of notquite-boiling water into the center of the bowl. (You can also use milk or your alt-milk of choice.) 3 Whisk briskly in an upand-down motion (like writing the letters M and W) until the tea is bright green and frothy, 15–20 seconds.

Ceremonial Grade Matcha Green Tea Set, $59; panatea green.com

Leandra Medine is the founder of man repeller .com, a humorous website about serious fashion.

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P H OTO G R A P H BY T U U K K A KO S K I

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

No Whisk, No Reward

On a frigid morning last February, a small black bag was left at my New York City doorstep by a friend. In it were three items devoid of instructions: a small container holding a generous dose of jade-green powder; a clear bowl, which I surmised was for drinking from; and a little white ceramic stand that looked like a lemon squeezer, on which rested what appeared to be a multipronged brush for dolls with crimped hair. This, it turned out, was a

JUSTIN VANN, 30

LEE CAMPBELL, 43

DANA FRANK, 36

Public Services bar, Houston Gets great wine into unexpected places

Roman’s and Reynard, Brooklyn Sells natural wine she believes in

Ava Gene’s, Portland, OR Makes Aglianico feel as familiar as Cabernet

ON INDUSTRY EGO:

ON THE OLD GUARD:

New Year, New Somms

ON HIS BAR’S NAME (AND MISSION):

“You see product placements for Corona in Fast & Furious 6, but no one’s saying, ‘Drink more Gamay.’ We’re that public service announcement.”

Good-bye haughty bow-tied sommeliers of yore. The new wave of young women and men is just as smart about wine—and won’t make you feel clueless for not knowing a Verdicchio from a Vermentino

BEST ADVICE: Can’t describe what you want? Vann feels your anxiety. Just be honest about where you’re coming from. He’ll walk you through it nice and slow—with some movie analogies to help you along.

HE’S DRINKING: Luyt Clos Ouvert Carmenère “La Grande Vie Dure” 2013, $24. The least “Chilean” Chilean red (think wild berries, sweet herbs, rioting taste buds).

26 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

by BELLE CUSHING

“I’m in this for the people and for the relationships, not because I wanted to be ‘No. 1 sommelier’— because I don’t.” BEST ADVICE: Like buttery Chardonnay? Own it, says Campbell. She might not sell that exact wine, but it gives her a starting point to find something you’ll love.

SHE’S DRINKING: Marie & Vincent Tricot “Les Petites Fleurs” 2013, $25. How does no one know about wines from Auvergne yet?

“Mad props to the somms before me, but my generation came up drinking very different styles of wine.” BEST ADVICE: Every wine on a list should be awesome whether it costs $30 or $300, says Frank. Set a viable price range you’re willing to spend from the start! It’s not a faux pas. Sommeliers will appreciate the honesty.

SHE’S DRINKING: Le Piane Maggiorina 2012, $21. Pricey Barolo’s not the only great thing Piedmont’s got going, as this Nebbiolo blend proves.

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF JUSTIN VANN; ALEX LAU (CAMPBELL); COURTESY OF DANA FRANK. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (GREEN BOTTLES).

The Drink

BA > R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS

W E ´R E I N TO A N CH OV I E S

easy fast, fresh easy, fresh Confession: I used to be anchovyaverse. But once I discovered the versatility of those funky fillets, my pantry has never been without

them. They don’t add fishiness, just a bright, briny umami that boosts everything from white bean stews to vinaigrettes. If you still need convincing, try the pasta on page 31. It’ll make you regret all those anchovy-less years. — ALISON ROMAN

Themaiden lane.com stocks some wonderful anchovies.

TEXT AND RECIPES BY ALISON ROMAN PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

WHY WE... BAC O N W R A P > A s the b a c o n c o o ks, the fa t renders, basting the tenderloin with flavor and ensuring it stay s ju ic y (a l l

whil e c o o k ing p er fec tl y itsel f ). To keep the bacon in place, wrap the slices around the tenderloin, tucking ends underneath e a c h o t h e r.

Cheater’s Porchetta Sometimes it’s okay to cut corners: Here we make the classic Italian dish with bacon and skip the multiday air-drying process. It's not traditional, but it sure is delicious

Weeknight Porchetta ACTIVE 10 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 4 SERVINGS 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped; plus 2 heads, halved crosswise 1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh rosemary, plus 4 sprigs 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, coarsely chopped 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Freshly ground black pepper 1 1 ½-lb. pork tenderloin 4 slices bacon Preheat oven to 425°. Toss chopped garlic, chopped rosemary, fennel seeds, salt, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl; season with pepper. Rub garlic mixture all over tenderloin (if you have time to do this in the morning, great; refrigerate pork until dinner). Scatter rosemary sprigs in a large baking dish and set tenderloin on top. Wrap bacon slices around tenderloin, tucking ends underneath so bacon stays put. Nestle halved heads of garlic around tenderloin and drizzle everything with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of tenderloin registers 145° for medium, 40–45 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest at least 10 minutes before slicing. Calories 300 - Fat 15 g - Fiber 1 g

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICOLE FRANZEN

B U Y E R’S G U I D E W H AT Y O U N E E D TO K N OW A B O U T ANCHOVIES

1 Spring for the pricier jar or tin: You’ll notice a difference. (Cheaper brands often have more of the metallic taste that gives anchovies a bad rep.)

Little Fish, Big Impact Why is it that in the dead of winter, everything seems to need a little help? Anchovy butter delivers bold flavor to this back-pocket pasta

Pasta with Anchovy Butter and Broccoli Rabe ACTIVE 25 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN 4 SERVINGS 1 3.5–oz. jar oil-packed anchovies, drained, chopped 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 bunch broccoli rabe 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 12 oz. campanelle or penne 3 oz. Pecorino or Parmesan, finely grated, plus shaved for serving

2 Anchovies are salty enough as is, so go for the ones packed in oil, not salt. 3 Some great brands: Rustichella d’Abruzzo, Merro, and Conservas Ortiz.

Mash anchovies into butter in a medium bowl; season with salt (if needed; taste first) and pepper. Tear broccoli rabe leaves into 2" pieces; set aside. Thinly slice stems ¼" thick. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Add garlic and broccoli rabe stems and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until stems are tender, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid. Add pasta, reserved broccoli rabe leaves, ¼ cup pasta liquid, and 3 Tbsp. anchovy butter to skillet (save remaining butter for another use). Cook, tossing occasionally and adding more pasta liquid as needed, until leaves are wilted and sauce coats pasta, about 4 minutes. Toss in grated Pecorino; season with salt and pepper. Serve pasta topped with shaved Pecorino. Calories 530 - Fat 18 g - Fiber 3 g

A Better Butter Want to let those little guys take center stage? Enter anchovy butter. Unapologetically packed with anchovy essence, it’s all you need to wake up a loaf of crusty bread or a simple bowl of pasta. The recipe at left makes extra, so try using the rest to sauté radishes or turnips, swirl it into creamy soups before serving, or rub it onto a chicken before roasting. Alison Roman, senior food editor

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

WHY WE... SKIP NONSTICK > We always use stainless steel for pan sauces. To get those browned bits, you need food to, well, stick.

INGREDIENT COMBOS W E LOV E 1 G arl ic + t hy me + c hic ken b rot h ( p i c t u re d ) 2 Shal l ot + t a r ra g o n + white wine 3 O nion + ro s e m a r y + red wine

Get Saucy A seared piece of meat might sound boring. But when it’s drizzled with a silky reduction? Always exciting. These are the keys to pulling off a pro-grade pan sauce STEP 1 S E A R T H E M E AT

Our favorites include pork chops and hanger steak, but most quickcooking meats will work. Heat 1–2 Tbsp. neutral oil, such as grapeseed or vegetable, in a large stainless-steel

skillet over mediumhigh until almost smoking. A hot pan means a good sear, which is crucial to creating that crust. And avoid nonstick at all costs: You'll need those browned bits as the flavor base of your pan sauce. Cook until

3 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

the meat is deeply browned and cooked through, then let rest. STEP 2 ADD THE A RO M AT I C S

Pour off any fat from the skillet, while keeping all those bits you worked so hard for. No need to wipe out the skillet—a little fat is a good thing. Turn the heat down to medium and add aromatics (think one chopped shallot, a couple cloves of garlic)

and a teaspoon or so of spices (such as yellow mustard seeds or crushed black peppercorns). Cook, stirring to keep things moving, until the vegetables are softened and the spices have bloomed, about 4 minutes. STEP 3 D EG L A Z E !

Now’s the time to add liquid. We love using red or white wine for the acidity it lends, but broth is another great option

if you don’t already have a bottle open. You don’t need to add much; about ½ cup will do for a sauce to serve 4. While you’re at it, throw in a few sprigs of thyme or rosemary, maybe a little lemon zest if you’ve got lemons lying around. Then simmer, using a wooden spoon to scrape up anything stuck to the pan (also known as fond), until the liquid is thickened and

reduced by about half, 5 or so minutes. STEP 4 B R I N G BAC K T H E FAT

When the liquid is reduced, remove from the heat and swirl in a knob of butter. This makes the sauce smooth, creamy, and restaurant-worthy. Season it with salt and pepper, and, if you’d like, a squeeze of lemon juice. Slice the meat and drizzle the pan sauce over or serve it alongside.

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

“Building the broth while the chicken poaches with herbs and spices makes this a real ‘two birds, one stone’ kind of soup.”

Hit Refresh Maybe you’re coming down with a cold, or you hit one too many holiday parties. This comforting but complex-tasting soup is just what the doctor ordered

Brothy Poached Chicken with Mushrooms and Fresh Chile ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 40 MIN 4 SERVINGS 1 ½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 3 large) 1 head garlic, halved crosswise 2 bay leaves 4 whole allspice 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more

8 oz. maitake or shiitake mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces 1 fresh red chile (such as Fresno), thinly sliced 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped 1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar 1 Tbsp. soy sauce Freshly ground black pepper Sliced scallions and cilantro sprigs (for serving) Place chicken, garlic, bay leaves, allspice, and 1 ½ tsp. salt in a medium pot. Cover with 6 cups water and bring to a bare simmer over high heat. Immediately reduce heat to medium-low, cover pot, and cook 8 minutes. Remove chicken from liquid and let cool slightly, then

shred into bite-size pieces. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot; discard solids. Add mushrooms, chile, ginger, vinegar, and soy sauce to stock. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth tastes rich and flavorful, 8–10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then add shredded chicken and simmer just until meat is warmed through. Divide soup among bowls and serve topped with scallions and cilantro. DO AHEAD: Chicken can be poached 2 days ahead. Let chicken and broth cool separately. Wrap up chicken and transfer broth to an airtight container; chill. Calories 330 - Fat 6 g - Fiber 3 g

CANVAS RED-RIMMED PORCELAIN BOWL, COMINGSOONNEWYORK.COM

Alison Roman

CITRUS SUCCESS A FEW TIPS FOR ROAST I N G CITRUS

1 Stick to different types of lemons and oranges; grapefruit and limes are too bitter. 2 You want pieces that are thin but thick enough to

retain some chewy texture: ⅛" thick is the sweet spot. 3 The slices near the edge of the pan will roast more quickly than the ones in the center,

so peek in the oven often and remove pieces as they brown.

FOR COMPLETE NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS S T O R Y, G O T O BONAPPETIT .C O M / R E C I P E S

Roast Your...Fruit? Baking citrus at a high heat caramelizes the sugars and adds depth. It’s just the thing to bring intrigue to salads and more (see Prep School, page 99, for ideas)

Roasted Citrus and Avocado Salad

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

ACTIVE 25 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN 4 SERVINGS 1 blood or Valencia orange, sliced ⅛" thick, seeds removed 1 Meyer or regular lemon, sliced ⅛" thick, seeds removed 4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. fresh Meyer or regular lemon juice 1 bunch watercress or arugula, thick stems trimmed ½ cup fresh mint leaves 1 avocado, cut into wedges Preheat oven to 425°. Toss orange and lemon slices with 1 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper. Roast citrus, tossing occasionally, until lightly charred in spots and starting to caramelize, 10–15 minutes. This makes the citrus flavor more complex. Let cool. Meanwhile, combine onion and lemon juice in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper and let sit 5 minutes (onion will soften a bit and get slightly sweeter and less harsh). Add roasted citrus to bowl with onion along with arugula and mint. Drizzle remaining 3 Tbsp. oil over; season with salt and pepper and toss everything to combine and coat. Add avocado and very gently toss until lightly dressed (you don’t want to crush the avocado). Calories 260 - Fat 22 g - Fiber 6 g

JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 3 5

W E R AT E D JUICERS ON A S S E M B LY, E X T R ACT I O N Q U A L I T Y, EASE, AND C L E A N U P.

THE TEST DRIVE

juice up You don’t have to spend half your paycheck on that kale-ginger concoction. We put at-home juicers through the BA Test Kitchen gauntlet to find the best

An extra-wide tube swallows whole fruits and veg without clogging.

by Joanna Sciarrino

At 9.5" wide and deep, it doesn’t hog the counter.

The Winner BREVILLE JUICE F O U N TA I N C O M PAC T

Tops for value and space, this relatively small machine is unassuming yet powerful. It’s intuitive to use—great for morning grogginess— and its built-in pulp container means one less thing to wash. It blazed through whole carrots and bunches of kale as well as larger models, and we loved the foamcatching filtered juice pitcher (not shown). A rubberized bottom that stabilizes the machine while it runs is a nice plus.

Got carrot pulp? Mix a little into baked goods for more fiber.

For the recipe for this carrot, ginger, and lime blend from Moon Juice, go to bonappetit .com/juice

One simple speed keeps things easy.

THE RUNNERS UP

Batch Master

The Slow-Mo Pro

B R E V I L L E J U I C E F O U N TA I N P L U S

H U R O M S LOW J U I C E R

Breville clearly knows juicers; this model was our second favorite. Its higher-capacity juice and pulp containers are key if you’re a big-batch juicer, and having two speeds lets you spin everything from apricots to fennel. And it’s not that much more expensive than our winner. $150; brevilleusa.com

Masticating juicers (a.k.a. cold-press or slow juicers) tend to be pricier and bulkier—and yes, slower—but for juice bar regulars, they’re a worthy investment. This one’s extremely powerful, and its extraction process preserves more of the nutrients lost in standard juicers. $300; williams-sonoma.com

3 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T U U K K A KO S K I

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KATE JORDAN.

$10 0 ; b rev i l l e u s a .com

THE NEW H E A LT H Y

JOIN IN! HEAD OV E R TO BONAPPETIT .COM/CLEANSE TO G E T S TA R T E D

food lover’s cleanse The key to getting the most out of our 5th annual recharge? A plan. Here’s how to make it as doable as it is delicious by S a ra Dicke r m an

At some point each December, as I pop another cube of holiday-party Jarlsberg in my mouth, I start to crave a different kind of eating: food that makes me feel good. That’s when I gear up for the Food Lover’s Cleanse, the plan I designed with nutritionist Marissa Lippert and the BA Test Kitchen. The cleanse is a two-week healthy cooking program that encourages you to begin the year with enticing whole-food meals. It kicks off on bonappetit.com on January 2 (we’ll share all the recipes just after Christmas). After leading the cleanse for four years, I know it’s a commitment—I’m cooking quinoa and peeling parsnips right there with you (see my diary on the site!). Luckily, I’ve come up with a handful of strategies to make the cleanse more about loving food and less about the labor. 3 8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

B eet S oup w i t h C a r away. Tu rn t he page for the rec ip e .

P H OTO G R A P H S BY T U U K K A KO S K I

THE NEW H E A LT H Y

S A N I T Y S T R AT E GY: F I N D A B U D DY More than once, my friend Curtis has rescued me from the brink of cleanse fatigue by cooking the dinner for the evening. I do it for him a few times too. Not only does it cut back on the total number of nights spent washing dishes, it also reminds me that healthy eating works best when it’s done in good company.

1 Cook in Big Batches The cleanse includes simple doahead work—a good strategy anytime. Cook beets once and you’re halfway to soups, salads, and more.

Big Batch of Oven-Steamed Beets ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN Toss 4 lb. scrubbed red beets (halved if large) with 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a 13x9" baking dish; season with salt and pepper. Add herb of choice (a handful of thyme, a rosemary sprig, and/or 2 bay leaves) and ¼ cup water. Cover tightly with foil (you want steam to build up) and steam beets in a 425° oven until a knife slips easily through flesh, 60–75 minutes. Let cool in covered pan (to help loosen the skins). Rub off skins with paper towels. DO AHEAD: Beets can be steamed 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

ACTIVE 45 MIN - TOTAL 45 MIN 4 SERVINGS Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook 1 Tbsp. caraway seeds, stirring, until they start to pop and dance around in pan, about 1 minute. Quickly add 1 chopped medium onion, 1 thinly sliced leek (white and pale-green parts only), and a splash of water to keep seeds from burning; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft, 5–7 minutes. Add ½ batch chopped OvenSteamed Beets (see recipe) and 2 ½ cups water to pan; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors come together, 15–20 minutes. Let mixture cool slightly, then purée in a blender in 2 batches, adding ½ cup buttermilk to each batch. Gently heat soup, adding water to adjust consistency if needed. Serve drizzled with buttermilk and topped with dill sprigs and cracked pepper. Calories 220 - Fat 9 g - Fiber 8 g 4 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

2 Shop Big The day before the cleanse starts, I head to the grocery store. I pick a store with a big selection— great produce, seafood, Asian condiments, and bulk bins—to minimize stops. I buy most of the first week’s ingredients (except highly perishable items like shellfish) and all the pantry goods I’ll need.

W H AT T O TA K E - Sho pping list (we of fer one onl ine) - To te bags - An o pe n walle t The final tally may make you faint if you’re used to shopping small, but don’t forget: You’re stocking up for two weeks!

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KATE JORDAN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

Beet Soup with Caraway

S A N I T Y S T R AT E GY: B E F L E X I B L E The cleanse offers plenty of structure about what to eat each day. It’s intended to make things easy not burdensome. We curb refined sugars and starches and turn up the volume on vegetables, whole grains, and foods rich in healthy fats. Within that framework, you should feel free to play around. If your boyfriend ate the last of the walnuts, throw in sesame seeds. If you draw the line at sardines, substitute a nice chunk of tuna or salmon. The cleanse is a wonderful experience, whether or not you follow it to a T.

3 Make Over Your Leftovers Since you’ll be cooking delicious food every night, we figure your efforts should stretch to more than one meal. Most lunches in the plan are salads built on some of the leftovers from the previous night’s dinner. To keep things interesting, I depend on these three elements:

A. TEXTURE Add more than one exciting textural element to your second-timearound ingredients, like toasted nuts or chewy dried fruits. A salad is twice as good when there’s something fun to bite into.

B . F L AV O R Keep a bold homemade vinaigrette on hand to give your midday salads lushness and depth (and have one less thing to do on the spot). I like to keep two or three jars in the fridge for variety.

C. FRESHNESS You want something to wake up your revisited food. That can be as simple as a squeeze of lemon, a sprinkle of minced dried apricots, or a handful of tender herbs (parsley, chives, celery leaves—whatever).

Lean Hard on the Condiments The point is to enjoy vegetables, whole grains, and other healthy foods, so this program relies on condiments for a quick boost. This year, I’m loving gochujang, the Korean chile paste that gives foods a sweet and earthy heat (see right). A couple of others to stock: Furikake, a Japanese seasoning, adds richness to even the simplest stir-fry (I’ll give you a recipe, but you can purchase it too), and whole grain mustard makes any vinaigrette pop.

GOT C O N TA I N E R S ? Sin c e lun ch e s in c o rp o rate l e f tove rs , yo u’re going to n e e d p l e nt y of c o nt ain e rs . I sto c k up o n s t a c ka b l e o n e s in different sizes an d m ake sure I have zip -top b a g s ( l arg e an d small ) to store wa s h e d s al a d greens and herbs.

A tub of g o c hu jan g will bring life to vir tuous foods— dur ing t he cl e anse and b eyond.

Gochujang-and-SesameRoasted Winter Squash ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 40 MIN 4 SERVINGS Whisk 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds, 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, 1 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste), and 2 tsp. soy sauce in a large bowl. Slice 1 seeded peeled butternut squash ¼" thick; toss in sesame seed mixture. Divide squash between 2 rimmed baking sheets, arranging in a single layer. Roast in a 425° oven, rotating sheets once, until tender and browned on some edges, 25–30 minutes. Serve topped with sliced scallions and flaky sea salt. Calories 190 - Fat 9 g - Fiber 8 g

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 41

> ISLAND GUIDE / oahu

navigator

GET BA’S TA K E O N MORE OF OUR TO P FO O D C I T I E S AT BONAPPETIT .C O M / T R AV E L

surf, sun, and shave ice

Oahu, Hawaii’s most populous island, offers more than beaches: It’s also home to a burgeoning food scene defined by local ingredients and traditional one-of-a-kind treats

This i s winter ? It is if you’re hanging out on Oahu’s legend a r y North Shore.

Re p o r t i n g by Re id Nakasone, D aw n Pe r r y, and Asia na Po nciano PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL

N AV I G AT O R > oahu

S AY H E L L O L I K E A L O C A L

The shaka is the high five of Hawaii. It can mean hello, good-bye, or thanks. But unless you’re a surfer or a native, use it sparingly (and keep it loose and casual).

From left: Shave ice at Shimazu Store in Honolulu; Diamond Head rising over Waikiki Beach; Romy’s Kahuku Prawns & Shrimp shack on the North Shore.

Known as “the Gathering Place” among the islands, Oahu boasts the best of what Hawaii has to offer: pristine beaches, priceless views, and a mix of old- and new-school eats. Native Hawaiian, Asian, and good ol’ American comfort food have come together to create unique, laid-back riffs on island-style soul food.

You’ll find a core group of young and creative chefs, dedicated farmers, and local artisans passionate about preserving Hawaii’s very particular culture—and pushing it to the next level. That adage “the best food you’ll have in Hawaii is on the airplane” no longer holds true. Oahu is the place to get your ono kine grindz (“good eats,” in local speak) on. So relax, come hungry, and lotion up. You’ve just landed in paradise.

Lunch after a morning on the North Shore means one thing: garlicky, buttery peel-andeat shrimp served from a number of trucks. Giovanni’s (right), Mackey’s, and Romy’s are our favorites. Grab extra napkins.

> MAKE IT A COOKING VACATION Don’t neglect your rental’s kitchen—stock it with island staples by hitting these vendors at the stunning Kapiolani Community College farmers’ market, open Tuesdays and Saturdays.

H A WA I I F I S H C O .

Want to make tuna poke or grill mahimahi steak? The sustainably sourced seafood at this vendor is the island’s best.

2 POKE

1 S H AV E I C E Defined

Taro fields at Kāko’o ’Ōiwi farm in Kaneohe

Think of shave ice (never shaved) as a sno-cone that you’re allowed to have past the age of six. Eat it as you would ice cream at the Dairy Queen: standing in the parking lot. Customize with abandon: flavored syrups, condensed milk, or adzuki beans. Get It Here

Waiola Store, Shimazu Store, or, for a modern take, MW Restaurant.

It’s rice, a hamburger patty, an egg, and gravy piled high. It is to Hawaii what poutine is to Canada: a gutbusting, kitchensink, beigecolored dish best enjoyed late night or the morning after a few too many.

the mu

DRINK HERE

Kahuku Superette, where the fish is always fresh.

Defined

Get It Here

3 LOCO MOCO

There might be a farm-to-table movement happening on the island, but c’mon, you shouldn’t miss these standbys.

Defined

A simple dish of raw fish, kukui nut, and sea salt, often served over rice, it’s sold everywhere from liquor stores to supermarkets. While it may be ubiquitous, poke is only as good as the quality of fish used.

Get Schooled on Hawaiian Classics

th e vi

Get It Here

Anywhere and everywhere.

MUSUBI Defined

The most famous version of this Japanese-style rice ball (a.k.a. onigiri) is topped with Spam. Yes, Spam. (Hawaii consumes the most per capita in the U.S.) Typically, the Spam is seared, placed atop rice, and wrapped in nori.

LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB

o n K e ’e h i L a g o o n For a tiki bar time warp complete with rum punches and coconut shrimp, go on Thursday evenings when legendary blind pianist Ron Miyashiro takes the stage. SUNRISE POOL BAR

at The Modern Even locals venture into touristy Waikiki for the postcard-worthy views at this chic poolside bar. Despite its name, the bar is best during sunset for happy hour.

Get It Here

7-Eleven or, for a major upgrade, Mana Bu’s.

Introduced by Portuguese workers, the malasada doughnut is a local obsession. Kamehameha Bakery’s taro-root version is tops. Warning: They open at 2 a.m. and often sell out.

ONO POPS

F R A N K I E’S N U RS E RY

Ideal for an après-beach snack, these handmade paletas come in flavors like Pickled Green Mango and Kalamansi Coriander.

Oh, the exotic fruits you’ll see! Stock up on rambutans, matisia, and other produce you’re not quite sure how to pronounce.

H A WA I I B E E K E E P E R S ’ A S S O C I AT I O N

H A N A L E I TA R O & J U I C E C O .

Honeys offered vary, but the cream-colored variety from kiawe mesquite trees is a standout.

Poi, a paste made from cooked taro root, is eaten with almost anything. This farm is Hawaii’s best producer.

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 4 5

N AV I G AT O R > oahu

C H A N N E L YO U R I N N E R K E L LY S L AT E R

Everybody in Hawaii surfs. No, really—everyone. You should too. Steve at Sea & Board Sports Hawaii will have you fighting for waves in no time.

Honolulu Hot List Hit the beach, get a spa treatment, go for a hike, but if you’re not visiting the capital for a meal or two, you’re not getting the most out of your vacation. M W R E S TA U R A N T

Dish: Mochicrusted opakapaka

KAIMUKI SUPERETTE

D i s h : H e’e (octopus) roll

Sister restaurant to Town, this new kid on the block has become the neighborhood fave for fresh salads and sandwiches using locally sourced ingredients.

> SOUVENIRS Try harder than macadamia nuts at the airport. Show friends you care with these omiyage (gifts).

3 2

KO KO H E A D C A F E

D i s h : Ko k o M o c o

Dish: Pho French dip banh mi

What was first a tasting-menu-only pop-up and then a popular farmers’ market stall is now a brick-and-mortar. All hail the Le family’s take on Vietnamese food.

For addresses of the restaurants and other spots in this story, see Sourcebook on page 102.

ADOBOLOCO H OT SAU C E

H A WA I I A N C H I P C O M PA N Y

These beanto-bar sweets are from cacao grown locally in Kailua.

The spicy, smoky Hamajang version is made with the oh-sohot ghost pepper.

Light-as-air taro chips come lightly salted or in bold flavors like zesty garlic.

Ask any islander and she’ll happily reveal her ultimate Hawaiian plate lunch. In the no-frills island classic, eaten day or night, you’ll find zero vegetables but always two scoops of rice (1), macaroni salad or slaw (2),

With toppings from Parmesan to seasonal tebichi (braised pig’s feet), Agu spins the classic bowl of Japanese noodles.

MANOA C H O C O L AT E

Anatomy of a Hawaiian Plate Lunch

AGU

Dish: Any ramen

Chef Lee Anne Wong’s brunch-only spot updates comfort food dishes, including rib-sticking loco moco using local grassfed beef, mushroom gravy, and tempurafried kimchi.

THE PIG & T H E L A DY

Going for a hike on Diamond Head? (Yes, you are.) Takeout from Kaimuki Superette is the pro move.

Wade Ueoka and Michelle Karr-Ueoka revitalize Hawaiian cuisine with a fresh take on traditional flavor combos.

and meat. Customization is key, and at the best places, you can mix and match two or more entrées. At the legendary Rainbow Drive-In, the “mix plate” includes a combination of BBQ beef (3), boneless chicken (4), and mahimahi (5). For added flavor, douse with chile pepper water or add a scoop of chili or gravy. Then loosen your belt and dig in.

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

No matter what your preference— resort, condo, or Airbnb—skip touristy Waikiki and stay in the mellow Kailua or Haleiwa areas of the island.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON

“Local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always” has been Town’s mantra since opening in 2005. Chef Ed Kenney’s unpretentious food matches the casual atmosphere.

Opah fish belly with Meyer lemon and seaweed salsa verde at Town

Koko Head Cafe

TOWN

Dish: Gnocchi with sunchokes, capers, and lemon

P RO M OT I O N

Photograph by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott (cover). Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Amazon, Kindle, Kindle Fire, and the Amazon Kindle logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. NOOK Color and NOOK Tablet are trademarks of Barnes & Noble, Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc.

SERVED TWO WAYS

Now you can subscribe to the print edition of Bon Appétit and enjoy the digital edition every month on your tablet for free. Go to bonappetit.com/getba Already a magazine subscriber? For tablet access, download the Bon Appétit app and enter your subscription number from the mailing label.

The tablet edition is available on the iPad®, Kindle Fire, Nook Tablet™, Zinio, Kobo, Next Issue, and via Google Play™.

BREAKFAST HAS BECOME LEAP-OUTOF-BED EXCITING. FROM NEW-SCHOOL PORRIDGE TO SAVORY PANCAKES, THERE HAVE NEVER BEEN SO MANY DELICIOUS WAYS TO RISE AND SHINE By ALISON ROMAN

5-GRAIN PORRIDGE WITH BEE POLLEN, APPLES, AND COCONUT P. 56

KEY TECHNIQUE

Make mornings easy on yourself: Cook a big batch of hot grains on Sunday and have at it all week long. Gently reheat any amount in a small saucepan with your choice of milk (or water); add toppings just before serving.

Watch our porridge primer at bonappetit.com /newhealthy

“ Just like anything,

a breakfast bowl has to be balanced. You want diversity in flavor and textures. Add nuts or granola for crunch, or goji berries for chew.”

— JARED VAN CAMP, OWEN + ALCHEMY, CHICAGO

LENTILS WITH CUCUMBERS, CHARD, AND POACHED EGG P. 59

CHICKPEA PANCAKES WITH LEEKS, SQUASH, AND YOGURT P. 59

THE GREENEST SMOOTHIE P. 56

KEY TECHNIQUE

For smoothies, we use frozen fruit, not ice: The flavors stay concentrated and the smoothie gets frosty. Anytime you’ve got ripe bananas, peel two or three and freeze in a zip-top bag.

The Greenest Smoothie MAKES 2

A vegan’s delight, with a gentle bonus buzz from the matcha.

DO AHEAD: Porridge can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. ASSEMBLY Heat coconut oil in a

1 banana, frozen, cut into 1" pieces 1 cup frozen pineapple pieces 1 cup fresh parsley, spinach, or kale leaves 1 cup unsweetened almond milk 2 Tbsp. almond butter 2 Tbsp. flaxseed oil 1 tsp. agave syrup (nectar) 1 tsp. matcha (green tea powder) ½ tsp. finely grated peeled ginger

medium skillet over medium-high. Cook coconut flakes, stirring often, until toasted, 2 minutes; transfer to a plate. Add apple, cinnamon, and 2 Tbsp. honey to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until apples are browned in spots and tender, about 3 minutes. Serve porridge topped with apples, coconut, sea salt, bee pollen, and a drizzle of honey, if you like.

occasionally, until whites are golden brown and crisp at the edges and set around the yolk (which should be runny), about 2 minutes. Add red pepper flakes to oil and remove pan from heat. Meanwhile, heat tortillas over a gas burner until just warmed and slightly charred in spots (or warm in the oven or a toaster oven). Mound sprouts on tortillas and top with fried eggs. Spoon chile oil from skillet around and drizzle with hot sauce. Crumble feta over, and serve with avocado slices, lime wedges, and more hot sauce.

INGREDIENT INFO: Matcha is available

at Japanese markets and online.

Chile-and-Olive-Oil-Fried Egg with Avocado and Sprouts

Purée banana, pineapple, parsley, almond milk, almond butter, flaxseed oil, agave, matcha, and ginger in a blender. Sweeten with more agave, if desired.

2 SERVINGS To learn how to make

Smoked Salmon Breakfast Salad with Crispbread

the perfect (seriously) olive oil–fried egg, see Prep School on page 97.

4 SERVINGS Everything good about a lox and bagel sandwich (minus the bagel).

5-Grain Porridge with Bee Pollen, Apples, and Coconut 4 SERVINGS If you don’t have each and every grain listed, don’t stress. Use what you’ve got—just bump up the quantity. PORRIDGE

½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ ½

cup brown rice cup quinoa cup amaranth cup millet cup wheat bran tsp. kosher salt ASSEMBLY

1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil ¼ cup unsweetened coconut flakes 1 large sweet-tart apple (such as Pink Lady), cut into ¼" pieces ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon 2 Tbsp. honey, plus more Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) and bee pollen (for serving) INGREDIENT INFO: Bee pollen is available at health food stores, some grocery stores, and online. PORRIDGE Bring brown rice, quinoa, amaranth, millet, wheat bran, salt, and 6 cups water to a boil in a medium pot. Reduce heat, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until cereal is the consistency of porridge (softer and thicker than the usual bowl of oatmeal) and water is absorbed, 40–50 minutes. 56 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

1 cup sprouts (such as sunflower, radish, or alfalfa) 1 tsp. fresh lime juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 large eggs Crushed red pepper flakes 2 sprouted grain tortillas or flatbreads Hot sauce (for serving) 1 oz. feta Avocado slices and lime wedges (for serving) Toss sprouts with lime juice in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. When oil is hot, crack both eggs into skillet and season with salt and pepper. Oil should be bubbling around eggs from the start. Cook, rotating skillet

2 baby beets or radishes, thinly sliced 8 thin slices red onion (optional) 6 cups mesclun 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 Tbsp. chopped capers Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 3 oz. smoked salmon or gravlax ¾ cup Neufchâtel or cream cheese 4 Wasa crispbread or toasted pumpernickel slices 1 lemon, cut into wedges Toss beets, onion (if using), mesclun, lemon juice, oil, and capers in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add salmon and gently toss to combine. Mound salad alongside crispbread spread with Neufchâtel and serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over.

PUT AN EGG ON IT!

Kale: Sautéed with garlic and flecked with fresh chiles

We love fried eggs so much at BA that the above headline is almost a mantra. They can turn anything— not just the usual suspects!—into a stellar breakfast. Try one on...

Kimchi: Stirred into brown rice Pumpernickel: With a slice of cheddar and a mess of fresh herbs Mushrooms: Roasted with olive oil and a few sprigs of thyme

Caponata: With a thick piece of toast Steel-cut oats: Mixed with soy sauce and scallions Paratha ﬂatbread: Strewn with Peppadew peppers Mashed plantains: Tossed with queso blanco and pickled red onions

CHILE-ANDOLIVEOIL-FRIED EGG WITH AVOCADO AND SPROUTS

RIFF ON IT

This dish is 100 percent customizable. Don’t have tortillas? Use toast. No sprouts? Chop up some crisp romaine. Out of avocado? Smash chickpeas or black beans. And why not swap in some cheddar for the feta?

“ I’ve always loved

salad for breakfast. It just feels like a great way to start the day: It’s food you can eat and walk away not weighted down.” — GERARDO GONZALEZ, EL REY, NYC

RIFF ON IT

SMOKED SALMON BREAKFAST SALAD WITH CRISPBREAD P. 56

Any smoked or cured fish will work in this salad. If using fish with a more assertive flavor, like peppered mackerel, amp up the greens by adding a dab of grainy mustard before tossing.

Chickpea Pancakes with Leeks, Squash, and Yogurt

Lentils with Cucumbers, Chard, and Poached Egg

4 SERVINGS Weekday pancakes sound like a stretch? Make the batter Sunday evening and start the week strong.

4 SERVINGS Calling all savory breakfast people: This beans-and-greens egg bowl is for you.

ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS

6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 medium leek, white and pale-green parts only, chopped ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup grated peeled squash (such as butternut or kabocha) 1 large egg ¾ cup chickpea flour ¼ tsp. baking powder ½ cup plain yogurt ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high. Add leek, season with kosher salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until leek is softened and starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add squash and season again. Cook, stirring often, until squash is cooked through and softened, about 4 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a plate and let cool. Wipe out skillet and reserve. Meanwhile, whisk egg, chickpea flour, baking powder, 1 Tbsp. oil, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ½ cup water in a medium bowl; season with pepper and let sit 5 minutes for flour to hydrate. Stir vegetables into batter just to coat. Heat 1 ½ Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium-high. Add batter by the ¼-cupful to make 4 pancakes, gently flattening to about ¼" thick. Batter should spread easily—if it doesn’t, thin with a little water. Cook until bottoms are lightly browned and bubbles form on top, about 4 minutes. Use a spatula to carefully flip pancakes over and cook until browned and cooked through, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a plate and tent with a sheet of foil to keep warm. Repeat with another 1 ½ Tbsp. oil and remaining batter. Serve pancakes topped with yogurt, parsley, sea salt, and pepper. DO AHEAD: Leek and squash can be cooked 2 days ahead; cover and chill. Batter can be made 1 day ahead; cover and chill.

1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar 4 large eggs 2 cups cooked black lentils, green lentils, or chickpeas (from about 1 cup uncooked) 2 scallions, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh dill, plus small sprigs for serving 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 small cucumbers, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. za’atar, plus more for serving 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 large bunch Swiss chard, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn into 2" pieces 1 garlic clove, finely grated (optional) INGREDIENT INFO: Za’atar is available

at Middle Eastern markets and specialty foods stores, or online. Bring about 2" water to a boil in a large saucepan; reduce heat so water is at a gentle simmer and add vinegar, which helps the whites coagulate. Crack an egg into a small bowl, then gently slide it into water. Repeat with remaining eggs, waiting until whites are starting to set before adding the next one (about 30 seconds apart). After about 3 minutes, whites should be set and yolks still runny. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to paper towels as they are done. Combine lentils, scallions, dill, lemon zest, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Toss cucumbers with 1 Tbsp. za’atar and remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium. Add Swiss chard by the handful, tossing and letting it cook down a bit before adding more, and cook until tender; season with salt and pepper. Stir in garlic, if using, and set aside. Divide lentils among bowls and top each with some chard, cucumbers, a few dill sprigs, and a poached egg. Sprinkle with more za’atar.

WAKING UP BREAKFAST Jessica Koslow, champion of breakfast at Sqirl in L.A., on keeping your morning routine anything but:

What’s your breakfast philosophy? “I think about breakfast like I think about dinner; it deserves the same attention. Take two extra seconds to toast whole seeds and spices—like cumin as a base for shakshuka—to really solidify the flavor. A successful dish has a balance of salt, acid, and a little bit of texture.”

How has breakfast changed? “Places have been doing amazing, creative brunch for years, but now we’re all recognizing, Wow, that can happen every day.”

What do you eat in the morning? “Sweet porridge with hazelnuts and jam or a very simple open-faced toast on rugbrød [Danish rye bread] with avocado or smoked whitefish.”

What’s with all the savory options on your menu? “I love savory breakfast. Keep your mind open to repurposing dinner food. If you cook squash, use that purée on toast. Shishito peppers, carrots, parsnips—any roasted vegetables can be seared the next morning for a savory hash. And don’t be afraid of salad for breakfast. I like greens in the morning.”

What ingredients do you always keep on hand? “Organic eggs, leeks, chives, fresh herbs, good salt. Brown rice is a staple, used in everything from porridge to a rice bowl, or fried until crisp for breakfast salad. Also, good butter and olive oil.”

WHAT DOES TODAY’S NEW HEALTHY RESTAURANT LOOK LIKE? CHECK OUT NEW YORK’S EL REY. THE STYLISH SPOT IS A BA FAVORITE—AND A TOTAL TRENDSETTER

For a video visit to El Rey, go to bonappetit.com /newhealthy

Lexie Smith, baker

This is where the magic happens: a microscopic kitchen that churns out a breakfast-andlunch-mash-up menu.

The supercute space has a California vibe with white walls, clean lines, and a little bit of neon.

Owner Nicholas Morgenstern (left, with Hazel) and head chef Gerardo Gonzalez.

Their avocado “Del Sur” with chimichurri combines three El Rey (and BA) favorites: egg, avocado, and green sauce.

Handwritten menu? Check. Houseplants? Yup, got those, too.

Customers order at the counter whether they’re getting to-go coffee or staying for lunch. The 15 communal seats ensure that you meet your neighbors.

Toast Points

Recipes by DAWN PERRY

THE RISE OF “TOAST” AS A FOOD GROUP MAY SOUND SILLY, BUT TRUST US: THERE’S NO BETTER (OR EASIER) WAY TO SHOW OFF SERIOUSLY FRESH, VIBRANT INGREDIENTS. IF YOU ASK US, IT’S THE BEST THING SINCE, WELL, YOU KNOW…

Toasted seeded bread + Neufchâtel cheese + sliced ripe figs + honey + olive oil + flaky sea salt

Sweet and Salty Figs

THE ELEMENTS OF TOAST How is “Toast” different from, well, toast? Here’s how:

The Bread: Slabs of chewy, open-crumbed breads like sourdough or miche are ideal for hearty toppings (think ricotta, kale, and ‘shrooms), while thin slices of dense, dark, grainy loaves (like those indestructible “health” breads) work best with highimpact, low-profile adornments like radish slivers and trout roe.

Pickled Peppers and Boquerónes toasted crusty bread + piquillo peppers + Sherry vinegar + boquerónes + chopped parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and olive oil

The Fatty Base: Starch demands fat! Whether it’s a schmear of earthy nut butter, a dollop of thick yogurt, or a hearty drizzle of olive oil, all great toast requires a base layer of something rich and satisfying. Without it, it’s just…dry toast.

Trout Roe and Turnips toasted dark rye + softened cream cheese + trout roe + thinly sliced baby white turnips or radishes + snipped chives

The Toppings: The rules? There are none. You can go elegant and spare (slices of cucumber, delicate ribbons of smoked fish) or pile a whole herby bean salad up on that thing. If the ingredients work together and the bread can handle them, that’s really all you need.

The Other Toppings: Whether it’s for textural or visual oomph, another drizzle, crumble, or sprinkle of something is a pro move—a bit of honey, some sliced cornichons for bite… and a schmancy finishing salt is always a good idea for savory and sweet toasts alike. —Amiel Stanek

Bresaola and Cheddar toasted pumpernickel + whole grain mustard + sliced sharp cheddar + bresaola + slivered cornichons + salt and pepper

Your New Avocado Toast toasted sourdough + tahini + smashed avocado + sliced cucumber + lime juice + olive oil + salt and pepper + crushed red pepper flakes

Ricotta, Kale, and Mushroom toasted crusty bread + ricotta + sautéed mushrooms and kale with garlic and chile + white wine vinegar + salt and pepper

Peppered Butter and Pears toasted whole grain + softened butter seasoned with salt and pepper + sliced pear + bee pollen + more salt and pepper

Behold all the marvelous ways we make toast at bonappetit.com /newhealthy

WHAT REALLY EXCITES US THESE DAYS ON MENUS? VEGETABLES. THEY OFFER TASTINESS, TEXTURE, AND COUNTLESS PREPARATION POSSIBILITIES. THERE’S ALWAYS ROOM ON OUR TABLE FOR ONE MORE DISH Recipes by CLAIRE SAFFITZ

”TANDOORI” CARROTS WITH VADOUVAN SPICE AND YOGURT P. 73

“ Garnish vegetables

with fried quinoa or toasted nuts to provide additional texture, as well as ﬂavor. ” —CASSIE PIUMA, SARMA, SOMERVILLE, MA

RED RICE SALAD WITH PECANS, FENNEL, AND HERBS P. 73

For a video on the best ways to veg out, go to bonappetit.com /newhealthy

CRUNCHY TURNIP, APPLE, AND BRUSSELS SPROUT SLAW P. 73

RIFF ON IT

Any sweet and crunchy winter veg works great here: Experiment with kohlrabi, rutabaga, or golden beets instead of turnips.

BEETS WITH GOAT CHEESE, NIGELLA SEEDS, AND PISTACHIOS P. 73

Take your cues Pucker Up from Jeremy Fox, “It’s amazing what executive chef a squeeze of lemon of veg-centric to finish a dish can Rustic Canyon in do. It zaps your taste Santa Monica buds to attention, (hey, he inspired the and makes whatever “tandoori” carrot vegetable you’re recipe on p. 73), and seasoning taste more your vegetable sides like itself—it just will steal the show. makes it taste right.”

Mix Your Methods “I love using different parts of the plant in different preparations. We do a salad using puréed, dehydrated, and roasted beets. It’s thinking about vegetable cooking in a nose-to-tail way.”

Eat the Rich “Vegetables don’t need to be ‘health food’; there should be plenty of fat on the plate for full flavor. I use beef or pork fat—or a little bit of cured meat or fish— to add complexity to my veggie dishes.”

ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS

TREAT YOUR VEGETABLES

KEY TECHNIQUE

Sure, you can roast your beets, but we love peeling them, then steaming until tender before mashing. Season the water with vinegar and spices (or use a white wine like Riesling) for a flavor boost.

ROASTED AND CHARRED BROCCOLI WITH PEANUTS

“Tandoori” Carrots with Vadouvan Spice and Yogurt 4 SERVINGS What’s vadouvan, you ask? It’s just one of our new favorite exotic spice blends; turn to Prep School on page 98 to read more about it.

2 Tbsp. vadouvan 2 garlic cloves, finely grated, divided ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt, divided 5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 lb. small carrots, tops trimmed, scrubbed ¼ tsp. ground turmeric 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Very coarsely chopped cilantro leaves with tender stems and lemon wedges (for serving) Preheat oven to 425°. Mix vadouvan, half of garlic, ¼ cup yogurt, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Add carrots and toss to coat. Roast on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer, turning occasionally, until tender and lightly charred in spots, 25–30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat turmeric and remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a small skillet over medium-low, swirling skillet, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Whisk lemon juice, remaining garlic, and remaining ¼ cup yogurt in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Place carrots (along with crunchy bits on baking sheet) on a platter. Drizzle with yogurt mixture and turmeric oil and top with cilantro. Serve with lemon wedges.

Meanwhile, toss fennel and onion with 2 Tbsp. lime juice in a large bowl and let sit, tossing occasionally, until lime juice is almost entirely absorbed, 10–15 minutes. Coarsely chop ⅓ cup pecans; finely chop remaining nuts. Cook in olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-low until golden brown, 5–10 minutes. Let cool. Add rice and pecans to fennel mixture along with remaining 1 Tbsp. lime juice and toss to combine. Gently fold in cilantro; season with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled with pistachio oil, if desired. DO AHEAD: Rice salad (without cilantro) can be chilled up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Crunchy Turnip, Apple, and Brussels Sprout Slaw 4 SERVINGS This slaw reimagines brussels sprouts as an adorable mini salad green. Core them with a paring knife and the leaves will pop right off.

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 small white turnips, peeled, cut into matchsticks 1 medium sweet-tart apple (such as Pink Lady), cut into matchsticks 4 oz. brussels sprouts, leaves separated 1 tsp. poppy seeds, plus more Whisk lemon juice, oil, and ginger in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add turnips, apple, brussels sprouts, and 1 tsp. poppy seeds and toss to coat. Serve slaw topped with more poppy seeds.

Red Rice Salad with Pecans, Fennel, and Herbs 4 SERVINGS Red rice is a short-grain, nutty-tasting type; you can use short-grain brown rice in its place.

1 1 ¼ 3 ⅔ ¼ ½

cup red rice small fennel bulb, very thinly sliced medium red onion, thinly sliced Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided cup pecans, divided cup olive oil cup cilantro leaves and finely chopped tender stems Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Toasted pistachio oil or almond oil (for serving; optional)

Cook rice according to package directions. Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet; let cool.

Beets with Goat Cheese, Nigella Seeds, and Pistachios 4 SERVINGS Steaming is back! The vinegar-and-spice-infused liquid flavors the beets as they cook.

2 Tbsp. chopped raw pistachios ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar ¾ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika, divided Kosher salt 1 lb. beets, scrubbed, peeled, cut into ½" pieces 4 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled, divided Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. nigella seeds Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Olive oil (for serving)

INGREDIENT INFO: Nigella seeds are available at Indian markets or online.

Toast pistachios in a dry small skillet over medium-high heat, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes; let cool. Combine ¼ cup vinegar, ½ tsp. paprika, and a pinch of kosher salt in a large saucepan and add water so mixture comes 1" up sides of pan. Fit with a steamer basket and bring liquid to a simmer over medium. Add beets, cover pan, and steam until tender, 30–40 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool slightly. While beets are still warm, add 2 oz. goat cheese, remaining 1 Tbsp. vinegar, and remaining ¼ tsp. paprika; season with kosher salt and pepper. Coarsely smash beets with a fork or potato masher, leaving some bigger pieces. Serve topped with nigella seeds, pistachios, sea salt, and remaining goat cheese and drizzled with oil.

Roasted and Charred Broccoli with Peanuts 4 SERVINGS Believe it or not, we came up with a new way to chop broccoli. Turn to Prep School on page 99 to make the cut.

1 bunch broccoli (about 1 ½ lb.), ends trimmed, stems peeled 3 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar ¼ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped ½ tsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast, plus more 4 scallions, thinly sliced Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Preheat oven to 450°. Slice broccoli stems on a diagonal ¼" thick. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, toss with oil, and season with kosher salt and pepper. Gather up loose pieces of left-behind florets and finely chop. Roast stems until browned around edges, 15–20 minutes. Add vinegar; toss to coat. Meanwhile, heat a dry medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Add florets. Season with kosher salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, until bright green and lightly charred in spots, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low; add peanuts and sugar. Cook, stirring, until nuts are golden brown. Stir in 2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast; season again. Serve broccoli stems and florets topped with scallions, sea salt, and more yeast. JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 73

It tastes like dessert and has so many nutrients.

14+

BRIDGET DONAHUE Goodness Greens

SATSUKI MITCHELL Banana Walnut Shake

LEE ROY KUNZ Walnut Mucuna Merry Milk

JAESUNG LEE Cilantro Celery Punch

OUR JUICING OBSESSION (YOU KNOW, THE ONE THAT HAS US DREAMING OF VERDANT TONICS AND NUTTY “SHAKES”) GOES BEYOND A DAILY HABIT. IT’S A FULL-ON LIFESTYLE—AND WE’RE NOT ALONE. JUST CHECK OUT THE SATURDAY SCENE AT AMANDA CHANTAL BACON’S MOON JUICE IN VENICE, CA 1+

MICHELLE MURPHY Cucumber, Pineapple & Jalapeño

= juices per week

AMINÉ RAMER Silver Strawberry Moon Milk

CHRISTOPHER DOLINAR Turmeric’s Gold

My whole world changed when I started drinking raw, organic juice.

40+

AMANDA CHANTAL BACON Canyon Greens

10+

ALANA MARIE Cucumber, Pineapple & Jalapeño

I love to cook elaborate meals with meats and pastas, so juice balances it out!

SARAH CARR Gingered Lemon

74 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

NIKEYA GREEN Deep Chocolate Moon Milk

14+

MICHAËL DIMITRI Green Shake

I don’t need that triple espresso at 4 p.m. if I start the day off with a fresh juice!

KATIE WHITE Gingered Lemon

ALIXANDRA KOS Gracious Greens

JODI RAPPAPORT Goodness Greens

RACHAEL KRUK Walnut Mucuna Merry Milk

LAUREN ECKSTROM Probiotic Mango Lassi

STEVE WERNDORF Goodness Greens

THOMAS BRODAHL Green Shake

Juice is a pure infusion of life force and vitamin goodness right into this holy bod.

RAHIM HODGE Date Shake

BRETAGNE NOHRA Gracious Greens

Yum.

JACOB MAYMUDES Goodness Greens

JOSHUA WANDER Date Shake

KAT SILVERSTON Carrot, Lime & Coconut

Juice makes me feel super alive.

I’m gravitating toward the yam for the high mineral content. And it’s like the holidays in a bottle!

DANIELLE KING Silver Strawberry Moon Milk

20+ MICAH SOHL Spiced Yam

ELIZABETH RIPPS Goodness Greens

KEVIN JOSEPH Ginger, Cayenne & Oil of Oregano

WHY SHELL OUT $5 WHEN YOU CAN MAKE ENERGY BARS AT HOME? PACKED WITH TONS OF FLAVOR AND PUNCH, THESE D.I.Y. SUPER SNACKS WILL POWER YOU THROUGH YOUR MOST HECTIC DAYS By DAWN PERRY 1

1. Seedy CherryQuinoa Bars

2. Crunchy CashewSesame Bars

Coat 8x8" baking pan with nonstick vegetable oil spray; line with parchment, leaving overhang on all sides. Toast 1 cup chopped almonds, ½ cup rinsed raw quinoa, ¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds, and ¼ cup raw sunflower seeds on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350° oven, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Let cool. Reduce oven temperature to 200°. Process 1 cup dried tart cherries, 2 Tbsp. brown rice syrup, ¾ tsp. kosher salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in toasted almond mixture. Press firmly into prepared pan and bake until no longer sticky, 20–25 minutes. Let cool, then cut into bars. Makes 12

Coat 8x8" baking pan with nonstick vegetable oil spray; line with parchment, leaving overhang on all sides. Toast 1 ½ cups cashews, 6 Tbsp. raw sesame seeds, and 5 Tbsp. flaxseed in separate areas on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350° oven, stirring occasionally (but not mixing), until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Let cool. Set aside 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds and 1 Tbsp. flaxseed. Process cashews and remaining seeds with ¼ cup wheat bran, ¾ tsp. kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. ground cardamom in a food processor until mostly finely chopped. Place in a medium bowl. Bring ½ cup pure maple syrup and 1 Tbsp. coconut oil to a boil in a small saucepan; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Pour over cashew mixture and stir to coat. Press mixture firmly into prepared pan with wet hands (it will be sticky). Top with reserved seeds; press to adhere. Bake until golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Let cool, then cut into bars. Makes 12

Press your bars like a pro. See Prep School, page 98.

3. Chocolate Coconut Date Bars Coat 8x8" baking pan with nonstick vegetable oil spray; line with parchment, leaving overhang on all sides. Process 2 cups pitted Medjool dates, ¾ cup raw cacao powder, ¾ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, ¼ cup cacao nibs, 2 Tbsp. agave syrup,

1 tsp. kosher salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a food processor until smooth (you may need to stop and scrape down sides a few times). Press mixture firmly into prepared pan. Scatter ¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut over top; press to adhere. Cut into bars. Makes 12

ALL AWESOME ENERGY BARS FOLLOW THIS FORMULA: BINDER Bonus: your sweet hit! Try: For chewy bars, process dried fruits like figs, prunes, or apricots. For crunchy, use liquid sweeteners like barley malt syrup, agave, or mild honey Store bars airtight at room temperature up to 2 weeks.

BODY Nutrient-rich building blocks that lend structure Try: Ground nuts, toasted oats, unsweetened shredded coconut, wheat germ and bran +

CRUNCH Textural elements that conveniently contain good fats and protein to keep you satisfied

Try: Seeds, chopped nuts, toasted small grains, cacao nibs For a video on making energy bars at home, go to bonappetit.com /newhealthy

HEALTHY DESSERTS? OKAY, HOW ABOUT KINDA HEALTHY? NUTS, SEEDS, WHOLE GRAIN FLOURS, AND GOOD FATS (CALLING COCONUT OIL!) BRING MORE THAN CRAVEABILITY TO THESE NEW TREATS Recipes by ALISON ROMAN

CINNAMONDATE BUNS P. 83

KEY TECHNIQUE

Simmering dates in water to make our alt-sweetener breaks them down completely—no blender required! Just make sure to stir the pot frequently toward the end to prevent scorching.

“ When it comes

to sweets, fats are not the enemy; sugar is. We work hard to use unprocessed sweeteners like maple syrup, raw brown sugar, and fruits. ”

RIFF ON IT

—GENEVIEVE LYNCH, MULBERRY & VINE, NYC

Sprinkle any number of awesome chopped crunchy things on top of your meringues: cocoa nibs, sunflower seeds, hazelnuts, toasted coconut flakes...

HAZELNUT BUTTER AND COFFEE MERINGUES P. 83

CHOCOLATE-RYE CRUMB CAKE P. 82

ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS

SWEET TRUTH

For Sarah Ellsworth, pastry chef at Seattle’s the London Plane, dessert should be sweet—just not too sweet. Here, her tips on how to have your (chocolate-rye) cake and eat it, too.

Make the Cut “Mix white flour with whole grain ones like buckwheat for a tender texture and earthiness. Buckwheat goes great with rum, summer strawberries, or chocolate whenever!”

Swap Sweeteners “Non-sugars bring flavor, not just ‘sweet.’ Throw chopped-up dates in cookies, or steam and purée them into a paste for cake batter. Or, lighten coffee cake with honey or maple syrup.”

Stir-In Crazy “Nuts, dried fruit, and cacao nibs all add texture and flavor. That built-in nutrition boost? Just a bonus. Nuts are great for crunch, and cacao nibs offer a nice bitterness in meringues.”

Bottom Line “Cook with more flavorful ingredients and you won’t need as much sugar. Use citrus zest in baking, even dried flowers or teas. Earl Grey ground into flour makes for lovely tea-infused cookies.”

OAT AND PISTACHIO SANDIES P. 83

Chocolate-Rye Crumb Cake 8 SERVINGS

Because it contains more essential oils, whole grain rye flour can spoil quickly. Store the unused portion in the fridge or freezer. CRUMBLE

⅓ ¼ ¼ 3 2

cup granulated sugar cup all-purpose flour cup rye flour Tbsp. cacao nibs Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¼ cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces CAKE AND ASSEMBLY

Nonstick vegetable oil spray ¾ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup rye flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tsp. baking powder 8 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

¾ tsp. baking soda ¾ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup granulated sugar ⅓ cup (packed) light brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 tsp. vanilla extract ¾ cup buttermilk ¼ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt CRUMBLE Whisk granulated sugar,

all-purpose flour, rye flour, cacao nibs, cocoa powder, and salt in a medium bowl until blended. Work in butter with your fingers to form large clumps—there should be no dry spots. Cover and chill. DO AHEAD: Crumble can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. CAKE AND ASSEMBLY Preheat oven to 350°. Coat a 9"-diameter cake pan with nonstick spray and line with a parchment

round. Whisk all-purpose flour, rye flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in a medium bowl until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl and add eggs and vanilla; mix until blended, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low and add half of dry ingredients followed by buttermilk, mixing well after each addition. Repeat with remaining dry ingredients and yogurt (this is a stiffer batter). Scrape into prepared pan. Scatter crumble over. Bake, rotating once, until cake starts to pull away from sides of pan and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 60–70 minutes. Let cake cool in pan on a wire rack before turning out. DO AHEAD: Cake can be made 3 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

Cinnamon-Date Buns MAKES 16

Yes, the dough is buttery, but replacing the brown sugar with puréed dates is a nutritional game-changer. DATE FILLING

16 Medjool dates, pitted (about 8 oz.) ¼ tsp. kosher salt ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest 1 tsp. ground cinnamon DOUGH AND ASSEMBLY

⅓ cup whole milk 4 Tbsp. honey, divided 1 envelope active dry yeast (about 2 ¼ tsp.) 2 large egg yolks 2 large eggs ⅓ cup buttermilk 1 cup spelt flour 1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature, plus melted butter for bowl and brushing ¼ cup sugar 1 tsp. ground cinnamon DATE FILLING Bring dates, salt, and 1 ½ cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring and mashing occasionally, until dates are falling apart and water is evaporated (it should be a thick paste), 10–15 minutes. Let cool, then stir in butter, orange zest, and cinnamon. DO AHEAD: Date filling can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before using. DOUGH AND ASSEMBLY Preheat oven to 375°. Heat milk and 1 Tbsp. honey in a small saucepan until lukewarm. Combine milk mixture and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. As soon as yeast is foamy, about 5 minutes, add egg yolks, 1 egg, buttermilk, spelt flour, salt, 2 cups all-purpose flour, and remaining 3 Tbsp. honey; mix on medium speed until dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic, 5–8 minutes. With motor running, add ½ cup roomtemperature butter, 1 piece at a time, waiting until each piece is incorporated before adding the next. Mix 1 minute, then increase speed to medium-high and mix until dough is soft and supple, 6–8 minutes. (No stand mixer? Whisk ingredients into yeast mixture in a large

bowl, then knead dough on a clean surface. Mix in butter with a sturdy wooden spoon, then knead briefly to make sure butter is well incorporated.) Place dough in a buttered medium bowl. Brush with melted butter; cover with plastic wrap. Let dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, 1–1 ½ hours (2–2 ½ hours if dough was made ahead and chilled). Divide dough in half. Roll out 1 piece on a lightly floured surface to a 15x5" rectangle. Evenly spread with half of date filling and cut into 8 triangles. Starting with a pointy end, roll up dough (like a reverse crescent roll). Place, seam side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, date filling, and another baking sheet. Cover buns with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm spot until almost doubled in size, 30–40 minutes. Mix sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Whisk remaining egg and 1 tsp. water in another small bowl and brush over buns. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar; bake until golden brown, 20–25 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving. DO AHEAD: Dough (before rise) can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.

Oat and Pistachio Sandies MAKES ABOUT 30 For a delicate—not brittle—crunch, don’t overbake. It’s okay if the center of the cookie is still pale.

1 1 1 ¾ ½ 1

cup all-purpose flour cup old-fashioned oats cup raw pistachios tsp. kosher salt tsp. baking soda cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature ⅓ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup powdered sugar Pulse flour, oats, pistachios, salt, and baking soda in a food processor to combine (small pieces of oats and pistachio should still be visible). Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat butter, granulated sugar, and powdered sugar in a medium bowl to create air pockets in butter, about 5 minutes; mixture will look light and fluffy. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients, mixing just until blended. Divide dough between 2 sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper and shape into about 1 ½"-diameter logs. Chill until firm, at least 1 hour.

(The colder your dough, the easier it will be to cut into even slices.) Place racks in lower and upper thirds of oven; preheat to 350°. Using a serrated knife, slice logs into ¼"-thick rounds and place on parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about ½" apart. Bake, rotating baking sheets once, until cookies are golden brown around the edges, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to wire racks; let cool. DO AHEAD: Keep dough chilled up to 5 days, or freeze up to 1 month.

Hazelnut Butter and Coffee Meringues MAKES ABOUT 24 For a high-contrast swirl, go easy when folding in the nut butter. A stroke or two with the spatula is enough.

1 cup skin-on hazelnuts ¼ tsp. kosher salt 4 large egg whites Pinch of cream of tartar ½ cup granulated sugar ¾ cup powdered sugar 2 Tbsp. coffee beans, chopped Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Remove nuts and reduce oven temperature to 200°. Bundle nuts in a kitchen towel and rub vigorously to remove skins. Spread out and let cool. Blend hazelnuts and salt in a food processor until a smooth, creamy nut butter forms (it should be pretty fluid; keep processing if still stiff); set aside. Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy, about 1 minute. With motor running, gradually add granulated sugar and beat until medium peaks form, about 5 minutes. Gradually add powdered sugar and continue to beat until stiff, glossy peaks form, 8–10 minutes. Transfer meringue to a large bowl and gently fold in half of reserved hazelnut butter, leaving plenty of streaks. Add remaining hazelnut butter and fold once just to barely blend. Mixture should be marbled with thick ribbons of nut butter. Spoon heaping spoonfuls of meringue onto parchment-lined baking sheets (meringues will flatten slightly as they bake, so make them tall) and top with coffee beans. Bake until dry, 2–2 ½ hours. Turn off heat and let cool in oven. DO AHEAD: Meringues can be made 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 8 3

RYE FLOUR Blend all-purpose flour with earthy, whole grain rye flour for baked goods with body.

ALT-FLOURS, SUPER BERRIES, MYSTERIOUS POWDERS AND FLAKES: CHEFS ARE RESCUING GOOD-FORYOU PROVISIONS FROM THE HEALTH FOOD STORE AND ELEVATING THEM TO PANTRY MUST-HAVES By BELLE CUSHING

CACAO NIBS These roast-y bits of the cacao bean add crunch in cookies, deliver a deep choco note to smoothies, and can garnish ice cream as well as salad.

GOLDEN BERRIES This dried South American fruit is low in sugar and high in vitamin A, with a sweet-tart burst perfect for snacking or salads.

COCONUT FLAKES Toast in a dry pan and sprinkle on everything from yogurt to grains to dessert. Choose fresh-smelling, unsweetened flakes.

NUTRITIONAL YEAST FLAXSEED OIL Full of omega-3 fatty acids (the good stuff), a drizzle of this lends a light, seed-y note to vinaigrettes. Store in the fridge to keep fresh.

Mix into dressings, sprinkle on popcorn, grains, or nuts— think of this as hippie Parmesan.

RED BHUTAN RICE Grown for thousands of years, this heirloom variety cooks up quickly (20 minutes!) into tender, nutty grains packed with potassium.

“ Spirulina is

galactic: funky, savory, and loaded with protein. I love adding it to an avocado shake.”

SPIRULINA Eat your veggies! Especially the aquatic ones. This blue-green algae is a weird and wonderful (and vitamin-rich) extra in smoothies or bars.

—FERNANDO ACIAR, FEEL FOOD, NYC

SUMAC This vibrant spice will brighten any veg with its deep lemony tang.

HEMP SEED Top salads or grains with this mildly grassy seed and enjoy the protein that comes with the crunch.

BEE POLLEN

TURMERIC This peppery powder gives its golden hue (and anti-inflammatory powers) to anything from yogurt to bread. Seek out the root fresh, and use like ginger.

With a meltin-your-mouth sweetness and just about every nutritional benefit you can think of, pollen is a powerful topper for smoothies and desserts.

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 8 5

TIME TO RETHINK YOUR ENTREE. WE’RE TALKING MEAT IN A CAMEO, VEGGIES AND GRAINS AS CO-STARS, AND THE BRIGHT FLAVORS OF THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN TAKING THE LEAD. SARA KRAMER, CHEF AT L.A.’S MADCAPRA, SHOWS US HOW IT’S DONE

-s

CHICKPEAS AND CHARD WITH POACHED EGGS P. 90

“ Try serving

no more than four ounces of meat or fish per person. Instead, add substance with nuts, legumes, and yogurt.” —SARA KRAMER

GUTTER

MACKEREL WITH CAULIFLOWER “COUSCOUS” AND TAHINI P. 90

KEY TECHNIQUE

Searing the sweet potatoes in a pan after they’ve been roasted is crucial: It adds caramelized depth to this simple recipe.

SEARED SWEET POTATOES WITH SAUSAGE AND RADICCHIO P. 90

Seared Sweet Potatoes with Sausage and Radicchio 4 SERVINGS

These days, it goes without saying that if you’re a vegetarian, you can simply leave out the sausage. SWEET POTATOES AND NUTS

1 garlic clove, finely grated 3 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. olive oil 2 large or 4 small sweet potatoes, preferably garnet, scrubbed Kosher salt ¼ cup pecans, chopped SAUSAGE AND ASSEMBLY

1 head Treviso radicchio, leaves separated and torn into pieces 2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. olive oil 8 oz. merguez sausage, casings removed ½ tsp. Aleppo pepper or ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses 1 tsp. Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar Kosher salt ⅓ cup plain sheep’s-milk or Greek yogurt ¼ cup fresh mint leaves INGREDIENT INFO: Pomegranate molasses is available at Middle Eastern markets and some supermarkets or online.

5 minutes. Stir in Aleppo pepper. Transfer meat to a plate with a slotted spoon and pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat from skillet. Reduce heat to medium. Combine pomegranate molasses, vinegar, and ¼ cup water in skillet, stirring to combine and scraping pan to loosen browned bits. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes, then drizzle over radicchio. Add reserved sausage and toss to coat; season with salt. Mix yogurt and remaining 1 tsp. oil in a small bowl, thinning with a little water to make pourable; season with salt. Divide yogurt among plates and top with sweet potatoes. Arrange sausage mixture over, along with any pan juices. Top with pecans and mint.

Mackerel with Cauliflower “Couscous” and Tahini 4 SERVINGS Use one 2-pound mackerel if you can’t find smaller ones, or substitute arctic char or trout. TAHINI SAUCE

1 ¼ 2 2

garlic clove, finely grated cup tahini Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt CAULIFLOWER AND SEEDS

SWEET POTATOES AND NUTS Preheat oven to 400°. Mix garlic and 3 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl. Prick sweet potatoes all over with a fork and rub with half of garlic oil; set remaining garlic oil aside. Season with salt and roast on a rimmed baking sheet, turning once, until flesh is soft and yielding, 45–55 minutes. Remove from oven; reduce heat to 350°. Toss pecans and remaining ½ tsp. oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt. Toast, tossing once, until slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let sweet potatoes cool slightly, then cut in half lengthwise. Brush cut sides with reserved garlic oil. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium. Cook sweet potatoes, cut side down, pressing lightly with a spatula, until browned and charred in spots, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and reserve skillet.

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 small head cauliflower, cored, cut into large florets 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. raw pumpkin seeds 2 tsp. sesame seeds 1 tsp. nigella seeds MACKEREL AND ASSEMBLY

2 whole small Spanish mackerel (about 1 lb. each), cleaned 1 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt 1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed 1 bunch thyme ½ cup pomegranate seeds ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems

SAUSAGE AND ASSEMBLY Place radicchio

INGREDIENT INFO: Nigella seeds are available at Indian markets or online.

in a large bowl. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium-high. Cook sausage, breaking up with a spoon, until browned and cooked through, about

TAHINI SAUCE Stir garlic, tahini, lemon juice, oil, and ¼ cup water in a small bowl; season with salt.

9 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

CAULIFLOWER AND SEEDS Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy skillet over mediumhigh. Working in batches if needed, cook cauliflower, tossing occasionally, until florets are browned in spots but still crunchy, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool. Reserve skillet. Working in 2 batches, pulse cauliflower in a food processor until the size of rice grains. Transfer back to bowl, toss with lemon juice, and season with salt. Cook pumpkin seeds and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium heat, stirring, until seeds are golden brown, about 1 minute. Season with salt. Toss in a small bowl with sesame and nigella seeds. MACKEREL AND ASSEMBLY Heat broiler.

Place fish on a rimmed baking sheet and rub with oil; season all over with salt. Stuff cavity with lemon and thyme. Broil, turning once, until cooked through, 10–12 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes. Spoon cauliflower onto plates; drizzle with tahini sauce. Top with seed mixture and pomegranate seeds. Remove fillets from fish and place, skin side up, on top. Add cilantro and a sprinkle of salt.

Chickpeas and Chard with Poached Eggs 4 SERVINGS You can cook the chickpeas a day or two in advance; pick up at the step where you sauté the onion and garlic.

2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup olive oil ½ lemon 1 small onion, halved, plus 2 medium onions, chopped 6 garlic cloves, smashed, divided 2 bay leaves 1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight, drained 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more 1 Fresno chile, finely chopped 1 tsp. baharat 2 large bunches Swiss chard, ribs and stems removed and thinly sliced, leaves torn into 1" pieces 3 Tbsp. dried barberries or dried unsweetened cranberries 8 large eggs Labneh (Lebanese strained yogurt; for serving) 1 Tbsp. fresh marjoram leaves Freshly cracked black pepper INGREDIENT INFO: The spice mix baharat and dried barberries are available at Middle Eastern markets or online. »

FREEKEH PAELLA WITH CLAMS AND ALMOND AIOLI P. 93

RIFF ON IT

Try it with farro, which is great for a weeknight dinner because it cooks even faster than freekeh.

WHAT’S IN KRAMER’S KITCHEN

Trendy chiles? Check. Exotic seeds? You bet. Ancient grains? Heck, yeah. Here’s what chef Sara Kramer reaches for every day to bring the bright, complex flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean to her cooking.

Nigella Seeds “These don’t have anything to do with Ms. Lawson. The angular black seeds add a distinct flavor reminiscent of cumin and caraway with a bitter edge. Veggies and flatbreads both love them.”

Aleppo Pepper “This pepper has never been hotter (wink wink). Used mostly as a crushed chile, it brings warmth to everything it’s sprinkled on—or into. Use like chile flakes to both flavor and finish a dish.”

Barberries “Refreshingly notat-all sweet. Toss these tart, dried Iranian fruits liberally into grains, stews, and salads for a bright, fruity punch. Sub dried cranberries if you can’t find them, but do try.”

Freekeh “A gloriously green grain. Smoky, nutty, and earthy; you might be tempted to refer to it as the bacon of the grain world. Use it and you won’t miss the meat found in traditional rice-based paellas.”

PORK CHOPS WITH CARROTS AND TOASTED BUCKWHEAT

ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS. FOR THE NEW HEALTHY 2015 RESTAURANT DETAILS AND PRODUCT INFO, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Add lemon and halved onion, cut side down, and 2 garlic cloves and cook, turning garlic occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add bay leaves and chickpeas; add water to cover by 1". Bring to a boil and skim surface. Reduce heat, cover, and gently simmer 30 minutes. Stir in 2 tsp. salt and continue to simmer until chickpeas are tender, 10–20 minutes. Remove from heat; discard lemon, onion, and bay leaves. Meanwhile, heat remaining ¼ cup oil in a large straight-sided skillet over medium. Add chopped onion, chile, baharat, and remaining 4 garlic cloves; season with salt. Cook, stirring often, until onions are translucent, 8–10 minutes. Add Swiss chard ribs and stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5–8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chickpeas to skillet. Add cooking liquid to cover; bring to a simmer. Gradually add chard leaves, stirring until slightly wilted before adding more. Add barberries; cook until leaves are wilted, 5–8 minutes. With mixture at a gentle simmer, use a spoon to make 8 indentations. Crack an egg into each and simmer until whites are almost entirely opaque, about 10 minutes. Cover pan and cook just until whites are set but yolks are still runny, about 2 minutes. Season eggs with salt. Spoon chickpeas and chard into bowls, top with eggs, labneh, and marjoram, and season with pepper.

Pork Chops with Carrots and Toasted Buckwheat 4 SERVINGS Chef Kramer cooks the chops medium-rare so they stay juicy; you can also use rib chops.

1 orange 1 ½ lb. carrots, scrubbed, halved lengthwise, cut into 2" pieces 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more Kosher salt 2 tsp. fresh lime juice, plus more ¾ cup pearled buckwheat groats 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 1"-thick bone-in pork shoulder chops (about 8–10 oz. each) 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided ¼ cup dill sprigs Aleppo or Urfa pepper or crushed red pepper flakes Cut all peel and white pith from orange; discard. Working over a small bowl, cut

along sides of membranes to release segments; squeeze in juice as well. Preheat oven to 450°. Toss carrots, garlic, and 2 Tbsp. olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt. Roast, tossing once, until tender and browned, 15–20 minutes. While carrots are still hot, add orange segments and juice and 2 tsp. lime juice and toss to coat. Set aside. Meanwhile, cook buckwheat in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender but not falling apart, 10–15 minutes. Drain; rinse under cold water. Spread out on a baking sheet and let dry (key for achieving browned and crisped grains when cooked again). Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy skillet over high. Season pork with salt and cook until browned but still pink in the center, about 4 minutes per side. Add 1 Tbsp. butter and spoon over chops, turning once, until medium-rare, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile, add cooled buckwheat and remaining 2 Tbsp. butter to skillet; season with salt. Cook, tossing often, until grains are toasted and some are crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Slice pork; toss dill into buckwheat. Serve buckwheat and carrots with slices of pork, drizzled with lime juice and olive oil and sprinkled with Aleppo pepper.

Freekeh Paella with Clams and Almond Aioli 4 SERVINGS Fair to say we're pretty much obsessed with this nut-based (egg-free!) aioli. Try it with walnuts, too. ALMOND AIOLI

½ 1 ¼ 2

cup slivered almonds small garlic clove, finely grated cup olive oil Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt PAELLA

2 onions, cut into large pieces 2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into large pieces 8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 medium-hot chile (such as a Hungarian wax pepper), stem removed 2 oz. dried chorizo, casing removed, coarsely chopped 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 bay leaf Kosher salt 2 cups freekeh

2 Tbsp. tomato paste 12 littleneck clams, scrubbed 4 hot pickled peppers from a jar, thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley Lemon wedges (for serving) ALMOND AIOLI Preheat oven to 350°. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Let cool. Pulse almonds and garlic in a food processor or blender until finely ground. With motor running, gradually stream in oil, lemon juice, then ¼ cup water; process, adding water as needed, until aioli is light, smooth, and consistency of mayonnaise; season with salt. Cover; chill. DO AHEAD: Aioli can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. PAELLA Pulse onions in a food processor until finely chopped; transfer to a large bowl. Repeat, separately, with carrots, garlic, and chile, adding to bowl with onions as you go. Pulse chorizo in food processor until finely ground. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium and cook chorizo, stirring often, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to a plate. Add vegetables and bay leaf to skillet; season with salt. Cook, stirring often, until moisture is evaporated and vegetables have started to brown, 12–15 minutes; this is your flavor base. Add freekeh and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until darkened in color, about 2 minutes. Stir in chorizo and 4 ½ cups water; season with salt. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook, adding more water if liquid evaporates too quickly, until grains are al dente and almost all liquid is absorbed, 45–50 minutes. Nestle clams in freekeh and cover skillet. Cook until clams open, 7–10 minutes; discard any that don’t open, along with bay leaf. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until clam juices evaporate and freekeh is tender, about 5 minutes. Top with pickled peppers and parsley; serve with aioli and lemon wedges.

Sara Kramer cooked at some of our favorite restaurants in New York, most recently Brooklyn’s Glasserie, where she was opening chef and partner before moving to the West Coast. MADCAPRA, her vegetable-forward falafel spot, opens in L.A. in early 2015. JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 93

prep school TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN

Extremely important: very (very) brown, lacy, and crispy edges all around.

A glossy, bright yellow, definitely still runny yolk.

Note the relatively even, circular shape of the puffed, bubbly white.

N A I L E D I T: T H E O L I V E O I L– F R I E D EG G

FROM P. 56 BA’s editor in chief, Adam Rapoport, and I are both obsessed with frying eggs in olive oil, for crisp—almost crunchy—edges, bubbly whites, and perfectly runny yolks. But we can’t agree on how to do it. I’m here to set the record straight. It starts with the right prep: First, set your burner to medium-high until the skillet is very hot. Second, this isn’t a deep fry, so one or two tablespoons of olive oil will do. And last, always season your egg (salt, pepper) as soon as you crack it into the skillet. With any luck, yours will come out like the (perfect!) example above. —ALISON ROMAN

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 97

PREP SCHOOL A.

S P I C E M A R K ET

FROM P. 73 Using the right spice blend can mean the difference between an authentictasting dish and one that’s just... fine. Find these mixtures at kalustyans.com. —CLAIRE SAFFITZ

TEST KITCHEN TALK

Carla Lalli Music, food director

A. Za’atar: The classic Mideast mix includes sesame seeds, oregano or thyme, and sumac. Sprinkle on fish and chicken, or stir into yogurt for a quick dip.

B. Ras-el-hanout: Cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, and coriander define this North African mix. Rub on lamb before roasting or grilling, or use to perfume rice pilaf and couscous. C. Dukka: This Egyptian ground spice-and-nut blend includes hazelnuts, cumin, caraway, sesame, coriander, and mint. Dust crudités, grilled flatbreads, or grilled or roasted vegetables.

D. Vadouvan: This French-Indian spice formula includes onion, shallots, and garlic added to a currylike mix. Use as you would a standard curry powder. E. Baharat: A blend of black pepper, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and cardamom. Season beef or lamb or stir into soups.

PAMPLEMOUSSE CROSSING FROM P. 17

FULL-CUP PRESS

FROM P. 76 The key to energy bars that hold their shape? A proper pressing. Fold overhanging parchment over the bar mixture and use a flat-bottomed measuring cup to firmly pack the mixture into the pan. Uncover, check for divots, and press again to create an even top. —DAWN PERRY 98 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

Picture this: you, sipping a Mae Rose Cocktail, relishing its citrusy-sweet glory. Next to you, the rest of the bottle of Crème de Pamplemousse Rose liqueur, full of potential. Now try four more ways to put our fave new mixer to use. —BELLE CUSHING

1. Snazz up a simple grapefruitjuice-and-seltzer highball. 2. Spritz it with a splash of soda and sparkling wine. 3. Swap it in for orange liqueur for a riff on a Margarita or Pegu Club. 4. Use instead of curaçao for a grapefruit-leaning Mai Tai.

From Whole Foods to my local health food store, I love a bulk bin section. It’s usually stocked with the same brands that you’ll find on the shelves (Red Star, Lundberg, Bob’s Red Mill…) but cheaper. That alone is a dealmaker. My kids weigh what we need in exchange for a scoop of “yogurt-colored” pretzels or malted milk balls. With the rest of the haul, I make rice and nut milks (additive-free!) and big batches of granola, and I always have a pot of beans going on the weekend. Now my cabinets look like a mini bulk bin department themselves, just the way I like it.

Blood orange

J’APPROVE!

A BA TEST KITCHEN PICK FROM P. 64 Mestemacher’s dark, seedy loaves rule for three reasons: 1. Whole grains— rye, oat, barley— deliver huge flavor that stands up to any ingredient. Key to a strong toast game.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JARREN VINK. FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRUCE HUTCHISON (ENERGY BAR, BROCCOLI); DENISE NESTOR (PORTRAIT); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (BREAD).

Navel orange

TA RT ‘ N ’ R O A ST Y

FROM P. 35 Roasting thinly sliced citrus caramelizes the sugars and neutralizes the bitterness, resulting in slightly chewy sweet-and-sour pieces of concentrated sunshine. Here are some great ways to use it all winter long. —A.R.

ROCK THE BROC

FROM P. 73 Broccoli stems are an oft-overlooked delicacy. I roast them in long, diagonal slices with just a few florets attached for soaking up dressing or sauce. Here’s how to make the cut. —C.S. 1. Trim the woody end of the stem, then position your knife there, at a 45-degree angle. 2. Cut ¼"-thick slices on the diagonal, working your way up the stem to the florets. Some slices will have leaves attached. You want these!

3. Any remaining florets can be sliced and roasted alongside the stems, or saved for another use.

Build a salad around it. It pairs especially well with rich avocado or creamy labneh. Finely chop and combine with minced shallots and herbs; cover with olive oil for a citrusy salsa verde. Dice and toss into roasted broccoli or carrots for a quick side. Use to garnish winter cocktails such as hot toddies or mulled wine.

2. You just feel healthier eating something called Fitness Bread (a favorite variety). 3. A year-long shelf life means you never worry about it going stale. Also, it’s available in 70 countries. Perfect if you find yourself in, say, Azerbaijan in need of a fix. —SCOTT DESIMON

SPROUT I T O U T LO U D !

FROM P. 56 Sprouts may remind you of trips to the food co-op with your “artistic” aunt, but visit any farmers’ market, and you’ll quickly see that the raw, nutritional powerhouses pictured above have become, well, cool (touché, Aunt Pat). —A.R. A. Buckwheat: Not all will have an

awesome pink hue, but they’ll have an earthy flavor nonetheless, perfect for finishing your next bowl of whole grain goodness.

B. Alfalfa: Neutral taste, high crunch factor, it’s the classic sprout. Swap in for lettuce in chopped salads. C. Radish: Sturdy and spicy tops with a petite stem. Look for the ones with reddish bottoms for style points. Toss into salads or on tacos, or scatter over rice. D. Arugula: This is the tiniest, most delicate arugula in all the land. Use as you would alfalfa for the same crunch with more kick. E. Sunflower: Nutty taste with dense, ultra-crunchy texture. These can hold their own, lightly dressed, with a miso vinaigrette. JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 99

recipe index JANUARY 2015

sourcebook SHOPPING LIST THE BA Q&A p. 20

GUCCI DRESS $3,700; matchesfashion.com

NEW HEALTHY 2015 pp. 50–93

P. 53 BOWLS $13 each; Fishs Eddy; 212-420-9020 P. 58 TENUGUI “SHIBORI” CLOTH $13;

tortoisegeneralstore.com

P. 76 TILES $12 each; importsfrommarrakesh.com

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 12–13

BOLLYWOOD THEATER 2039 N.E. Alberta

St., Portland, OR; 971-200-4711; bollywoodtheaterpdx.com THE OPTIMIST 914 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta; 404-477-6260; theoptimistrestaurant.com PÊCHE 800 Magazine St., New Orleans; 504-522-1744; pecherestaurant.com SALT AIR 1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA; 310-396-9333; saltairvenice.com THE FOODIST pp. 15–18

ARGUELLO 50 Moraga Ave., San Francisco;

BREAKFAST 5-Grain Porridge with Bee Pollen, Apples, and Coconut p. 56 Chickpea Pancakes with Leeks, Squash, and Yogurt p. 59 Chile-and-OliveOil-Fried Egg with Avocado and Sprouts p. 56 Lentils with Cucumbers, Chard, and Poached Egg p. 59

Peppered Butter and Pears p. 65 Pickled Peppers and Boquerónes p. 64 Ricotta, Kale, and Mushroom p. 65 Sweet and Salty Figs p. 63 Trout Roe and Turnips p. 64 Your New Avocado Toast p. 65

SALADS

Smoked Salmon Breakfast Salad with Crispbread p. 56

Crunchy Turnip, Apple, and Brussels Sprout Slaw p. 73

BEVERAGES

Red Rice Salad with Pecans, Fennel, and Herbs p. 73

The Greenest Smoothie p. 56 Mae Rose Cocktail p. 17

SOUPS, SANDWICHES Beet Soup with Caraway p. 40 Bresaola and Cheddar p. 64 Brothy Poached Chicken with Mushrooms and Fresh Chile p. 34

Roasted Citrus and Avocado Salad p. 35

MEAT

Pork Chops with Carrots and Toasted Buckwheat p. 93

Gochujang-andSesame-Roasted Winter Squash p. 41

Seared Sweet Potatoes with Sausage and Radicchio p. 90

Red Rice Salad with Pecans, Fennel, and Herbs p. 73

Weeknight Porchetta p. 30

Roasted and Charred Broccoli with Peanuts p. 73

POULTRY

Brothy Poached Chicken with Mushrooms and Fresh Chile p. 34 PASTA Pasta with Anchovy Butter and Broccoli Rabe p. 31 VEGETARIAN

Chickpeas and Chard with Poached Eggs p. 90

SEAFOOD

VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Freekeh Paella with Clams and Almond Aioli p. 93

Beets with Goat Cheese, Nigella Seeds, and Pistachios p. 73

Mackerel with Cauliflower “Couscous” and Tahini p. 90

Big Batch of OvenSteamed Beets p. 40

MAIN COURSES

Spicy Charred Octopus p. 13

1 0 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

Crunchy Turnip, Apple, and Brussels Sprout Slaw p. 73

“Tandoori” Carrots with Vadouvan Spice and Yogurt p. 73

STUMPTOWN COFFEE ROASTERS

ENERGY BARS

stumptowncoffee.com for locations TØRST 615 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-389-6034; torstnyc.com WALLFLOWER 235 W. 12th St., NYC; wallflowernyc.com

Chocolate Coconut Date Bars p. 77

CHAMPS FAMILY BAKERY 176 Ainslie St., Brooklyn,

Crunchy CashewSesame Bars p. 76 Seedy Cherry-Quinoa Bars p. 76

DESSERTS Chocolate-Rye Crumb Cake p. 82 Cinnamon-Date Buns p. 83 Hazelnut Butter and Coffee Meringues p. 83 Oat and Pistachio Sandies p. 83 Pecan Monkey Bread p. 12

THE BA Q&A p. 20

NY; 718-599-2743; champsdiner.com THE DRINK p. 26

AVA GENE’S 3377 S.E. Division St., Portland, OR;

971-229-0571; avagenes.com

PUBLIC SERVICES WINE & WHISKY 202 Travis St., Suite 100, Houston; 713-516-8897; publicservicesbar.com REYNARD 80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-460-8004; reynardnyc.com ROMAN’S 243 Dekalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-622-5300; romansnyc.com

NAVIGATOR: OAHU pp. 42–46

AGU 925 Isenberg St., Honolulu;

808-492-1637; aguramen.com FRANKIE’S NURSERY 41-999 Mahiku Pl., Waimanalo; 808-259-8737; frankiesnursery.com GIOVANNI’S 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku; 808-293-1839; giovannisshrimptruck.com HANALEI TARO & JUICE CO. 5-5070 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kauai; 808-826-1059; hanaleitaro.com HAWAII BEEKEEPERS’ ASSOCIATION

hawaiibeekeepers.org for information

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

We’ll have what they’re having (at NYC’s El Rey).

415-561-3650; arguellosf.com BOKA 1729 N. Halsted St., Chicago; 312-337-6070; bokachicago.com BOULI BAR 1 Ferry Building, Suite 35, San Francisco; 415-399-1177; bouletteslarder.com BROOKLYN KOLACHE CO. 520 Dekalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-398-1111; brooklynkolacheco.com COSME 35 E. 21st St., NYC; 212-913-9659; cosmenyc.com DOVE’S LUNCHEONETTE 1545 N. Damen Ave., Chicago; 773-645-4060; doveschicago.com DUSEK’S 1227 W. 18th St., Chicago; 312-526-3851; dusekschicago.com EDMUND’S OAST 1081 Morrison Dr., Charleston; 843-727-1145; edmundsoast.com FRANKIES 457 457 Court St., Brooklyn, NY; 718-403-0033; frankiesspuntino.com KINGS KOLACHE kingskolacheny.com for locations MINERO 155 East Bay St., Charleston; 843-789-2241; minerorestaurant.com PARACHUTE 3500 N. Elston Ave., Chicago; 773-654-1460; parachuterestaurant.com PÉPÉ LE MOKO 407 S.W. Tenth Ave., Portland, OR; 503-546-8537; pepelemokopdx.com PUBLICAN QUALITY MEATS 825 W. Fulton Market, Chicago; 312-445-8977; publicanqualitymeats.com SHAKE SHACK shakeshack.com for locations SOUVLA 517 Hayes St., San Francisco; 415-400-5458; souvlasf.com ST. PHILIP PIZZA PARLOR + BAKE SHOP 4715 S. Lamar Blvd., Austin; 512-358-7445; stpaustin.com

HAWAIIAN CHIP COMPANY hawaiianchipcompany.com for locations KAHUKU SUPERETTE 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku; 808-293-9878 KAIMUKI SUPERETTE 3458 Waialae Ave., Honolulu; 808-734-7800;

kaimukisuperette.com KAMEHAMEHA BAKERY 1284 Kalani St., Honolulu; 808-845-5831 KOKO HEAD CAFE 1145C Twelfth Ave., Honolulu; 808-732-8920; kokoheadcafe.com LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB 50 Sand Island Access Rd., Honolulu; 808-848-2800; lamarianasailingclub.com MACKEY’S SWEET SHRIMP TRUCK 66-632 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa; 808-780-1071; mackeysshrimptruck.com MANA BU’S 1618 S. King St., Honolulu; 808-358-0287; hawaiimusubi.com MW RESTAURANT 1538 Kapiolani Blvd., Suite 106, Honolulu; 808-955-6505; mwrestaurant.com THE PIG & THE LADY 83 N. King St., Honolulu; 808-585-8255; thepigandthelady.com ROMY’S KAHUKU PRAWNS & SHRIMP 56-781 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku; 808-232-2202; romyskahukuprawns.org SEA & BOARD SPORTS HAWAII 66-485 Kilioe Place, Haleiwa; 808-352-9755; sbshawaii.us SHIMAZU STORE 330 N. School St., Honolulu; 808-371-8899 SUNRISE POOL BAR AT THE MODERN HONOLULU 1775 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu; 855-970-4161; themodernhonolulu.com/honolulu-resort-pool TOWN 3435 Waialae Ave., Honolulu; 808-735-5900; townkaimuki.com WAIOLA SHAVE ICE 2135 Waiola St., Honolulu; 808-949-2269; waiolashaveice.com OH YEAH! pp. 52–59

EL REY 100 Stanton St., NYC; 212-260-3950; elreynyc.com OWEN + ALCHEMY 2355 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago; 773-227-3444;

owenandalchemy.com SQIRL 720 N. Virgil Ave., Suite 4, Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com VEG IN pp. 66–73

DIMES 143 Division St., NYC; 212-240-9410; dimesnyc.com RUSTIC CANYON 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, CA; 310-393-7050;

rusticcanyonwinebar.com SARMA 249 Pearl St., Somerville, MA; 617-764-4464; sarmarestaurant.com GENERATION JUICE pp. 74–75

MOON JUICE 507 Rose Ave., Venice, CA; 310-399-2929;

moonjuiceshop.com SWEET-ISH pp. 78–83

THE LONDON PLANE 300 Occidental Ave. S., Seattle; 206-624-1374;

thelondonplaneseattle.com MULBERRY & VINE 73 Warren St., NYC; 212-791-6300; mulberryandvine.com ALT-MAINS pp. 86–93

MADCAPRA Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles;

madcapra.com

BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2015 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 60, NO. 1. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614, call 800-765-9419, or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please e-mail reprints@condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614 or call 800-765-9419. BON APPÉTIT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPÉTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

back of the napkin

TWO FOR ONE

“When I first came to Britain in 1987, I ordered a ham and cheese sandwich. They gave me two sandwiches: one ham and one cheese.”

Tim Burton From the face-smacking shrimp cocktails in Beetlejuice (1988) to the river of chocolate doom that ran through Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005), food has often played a devious role in director Tim Burton’s fantastical films. Lesser known was the crudely drawn title character in 1979’s Stalk of the Celery Monster, an animated short that Burton, whose Big Eyes is in theaters now, made when he was still a student at CalArts. All of which begs the question: Was Hollywood’s reigning Goth once afraid of food? Turns out, the answer is yes: “Shrimp, crabs, and lobsters,” Burton says. “Perhaps I was traumatized by the film Attack of the Crab Monsters as a child.” (See the napkin.) As for his own cooking, it’s not nearly as freaky— or adventurous—as his movies. The one dish he’s known for among friends and family: hot dogs.

Illustrated in London on October 27, 2014

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM

PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

—ANDREW PARKS