SECRETS FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

Motion POULTRY IN

Butchers have the skills— and the secrets—for making the most of this truly versatile protein.

Behind the Meat Counter Tara Longo, owner of The Healthy Butcher in Toronto, knows the value of ethically raised chicken. “Start with a

will speak for itself,” she says. “Our chickens come in whole, then we can butcher them any way you like.”

Stock Options If you’ve ever tasted a quality ramen or pho chicken broth and wondered why it has such a rich, luxurious texture, it’s probably because of the chicken bones. Butchers usually have plenty of poultry backs and necks left over from the boneless skinless cuts they prepare, so request a pound or two to add to your next stockpot.

From the Ground Up Use ground leg meat in recipes that call for ground chicken, such as burgers and

and is richer in nutrients—such as iron, Crispy Cracklings Are there fans of crispy chicken skin in your family? Ask your butcher to save the skin when cutting up poultry. Toss the skin of four chicken thighs with a quarter teaspoon each of salt and pepper (or your favourite

two parchment paper–lined baking sheets, 375°F oven until browned and crispy, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate; serve in place of bacon on a Caesar salad. DID YOU KNOW? Even though poultry skin is high in fat, it contains important nutrients, such as iron, calcium and vitamin A.

Perfectly Poached A healthy and simple way to prep boneless skinless chicken breasts is to gently poach them in simmering lightly salted water (throw in a few smashed cloves of garlic, half an onion and a handful of peppercorns, too) just until cooked through; it’s faster and easier than roasting. Let cool, then slice the chicken and refrigerate in an airtight container for use throughout the week in wraps, salads, sandwiches and grain bowls.

Chicken 101: UNDERSTANDING THE CUTS When it comes to cooking chicken, it does matter which way you slice it.

BONELESS SKINLESS BREASTS are generally one of the most expensive cuts, but you can easily feed four people with two breasts. Thinly slice each breast and increase the veggies for a hearty and healthy supper.

WINGS baked in the oven can be just as satisfying as the deep-fried pub style. For crispy wings, dry them out uncovered in the fridge for at least an hour before baking.

BONE-IN SKIN-ON THIGHS are ideal for braises and stews. The skin prevents them from drying out and the bone produces a superior flavour.

WHOLE LEGS are among the most cost-efficient cuts and can often be found in large packages. For maximum crispiness and colour, dust them with cornstarch before baking.

TEST KITCHEN TERM

Spatchcock: To cut along the sides of the backbone and press on the breastbone to flatten. This method cuts down on cooking time while keeping the bird moist.

what’s RECIPES THE TEST KITCHEN PHOTOGRAPHY JIM NORTON FOOD STYLING CLAIRE STUBBS PROP STYLING RENÉE DREXLER/THE PROPS dinner? for

We’ve given classic family dinners a modern makeover, but they still deliver pure comfort in every bite.

TEST KITCHEN TIP

Cooking the pasta for longer will keep the noodles from soaking up the sauce, making for a creamier casserole.

TUNA CASSEROLE

MAKES 8 SERVINGS 450 g rigatoni 1 pkg (140 g) baby kale mix 2 tbsp unsalted butter half onion, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 3 cloves garlic, finely grated or pressed 2 tsp dried thyme 4 tbsp all-purpose flour 3¾ cups 2% milk ½ tsp each salt and pepper 2 cans (each 160 g) oil-packed tuna, drained 1 pkg (320 g) shredded Italian cheese blend (about 3 cups) 1 cup crushed potato chips

Spray 13- x 9-inch baking dish. In large saucepan of boiling water, cook pasta for 2 to 3 minutes longer than package directions. Reserving ½ cup of the cooking liquid, drain. Return pasta to saucepan; add kale. Let stand for 2 minutes; toss to combine. Set aside.

Meanwhile, in separate large saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat; sauté onion and celery, stirring frequently, until onion is softened, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and thyme; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.

pan, just until combined. Add milk, salt and pepper; cook, stirring constantly and scraping bottom of pan, until sauce is thick enough to coat back of spoon, 7 to 8 minutes.

Preheat broiler to high. Stir reserved cooking liquid, sauce, tuna and 2 cups of the cheese into pasta mixture. Scrape into prepared dish; sprinkle with remaining cheese. Broil until cheese is golden and bubbly, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Top with potato chips.

PER SERVING about 563 cal, 33 g pro, 22 g total fat (11 g sat. fat), 59 g carb (3 g dietary fibre, 8 g sugar), 52 mg chol, 839 mg sodium, 457 mg potassium. % RDI: 50% calcium, 26% iron, 38% vit A, 47% vit C, 78% folate.

BEEF TACOS WITH AVOCADO CREMA

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Spicy Avocado Crema

1 avocado, pitted ½ cup sour cream ¼ cup packed chopped cilantro 2 tbsp lime juice 2 tbsp pickled jalapeño peppers pinch salt 2 tsp olive oil half large onion, chopped 450 g lean ground beef 4 tsp chili powder 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp each smoked paprika and garlic powder ½ tsp salt 2 tbsp each ketchup and water 8 6-inch flour tortillas

Toppings (optional)

quartered cherry tomatoes shredded cheddar cheese matchsticked radishes chopped green onions

Spicy Avocado Crema In food processor, purée together avocado, sour cream, cilantro, lime juice, jalapeño peppers and salt until smooth.

TEST KITCHEN TIP

No food processor? Mash the avocado in a bowl using a fork and stir in the remaining crema ingredients for a thicker sauce.

In large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat; sauté onion, stirring often, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add beef; cook, breaking up with spoon, until browned but not cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add chili powder, cumin, paprika, garlic powder and salt; cook, stirring, until beef is no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Stir in ketchup and water until heated through and mixture is thickened, about 1 minute.

Spoon beef mixture over tortillas; garnish with toppings (if using) and serve with Spicy Avocado Crema.

PER SERVING about 567 cal, 30 g pro, 32 g total fat (10 g sat. fat), 42 g carb (5 g dietary fibre, 4 g sugar), 77 mg chol, 948 mg sodium, 807 mg potassium. % RDI: 8% calcium, 37% iron, 17% vit A, 20% vit C, 50% folate.

TEST KITCHEN TIP

Leftover cranberry sauce makes a great substitute for the jam or jelly.

MONTE CRISTOS

MAKES 2 SERVINGS 2 large eggs ¼ cup 2% milk 4 slices egg bread (such as challah or brioche) 1 tbsp grainy Dijon mustard 2 square slices Swiss cheese, halved 4 slices Black Forest ham 1 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp black currant jam or sweet red pepper jelly, stirred

Line baking sheet with parchment paper. In shallow bowl, whisk eggs with milk.

Place 2 slices of the bread on large cutting board; spread each with mustard. Layer each with 1 slice of the cheese and 2 slices of the ham. Top with remaining cheese; sandwich with remaining bread. Dip each sandwich into egg mixture, soaking for 15 seconds per side; return to cutting board.

Preheat oven to 400°F. In large nonstick skillet, melt butter over mediumhigh heat; cook sandwiches, turning once, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to prepared pan; bake until sandwiches are warmed through and cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.

Cut in half; serve with jam for dipping.

PER SERVING about 599 cal, 33 g pro, 24 g total fat (11 g sat. fat), 61 g carb (2 g dietary fibre, 15 g sugar), 261 mg chol, 2,126 mg sodium, 590 mg potassium. % RDI: 36% calcium, 28% iron, 16% vit A, 3% vit C, 43% folate.

TOMATO SOUP WITH CHEESE CRISPS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 small onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely grated or pressed 2 tsp ground turmeric ¼ tsp each salt and pepper 2 cups sodium-reduced chicken broth 1 can (796 ml) plum tomatoes 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 tbsp liquid honey ¼ cup sour cream 1 tbsp thinly sliced fresh chives

Cheese Crisps

½ cup shredded cheddar cheese 2 tsp sliced fresh chives

In Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat; sauté onion and celery, stirring often, until softened and beginning to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add garlic, turmeric, salt and pepper; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Stir in broth, tomatoes, tomato paste and honey; cover and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Cheese Crisps Preheat oven to 400°F. Line large baking sheet with parchment paper. Wrap rolling pin with paper towel.

While soup is simmering, spoon cheddar by heaping 1 tsp onto prepared pan. Bake just until melted, about 2 minutes; remove from oven and sprinkle with chives. Continue to bake until cheese is crisp and beginning to brown around edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Working quickly, carefully transfer hot crisps onto prepared rolling pin; let cool completely.

In blender, purée soup, working in batches if necessary, until smooth. Divide among serving bowls; swirl in sour cream and sprinkle with chives. Serve with Cheese Crisps.

PER SERVING about 225 cal, 9 g pro, 13 g total fat (8 g sat. fat), 21 g carb (3 g dietary fibre, 13 g sugar), 35 mg chol, 822 mg sodium, 661 mg potassium. % RDI: 20% calcium, 21% iron, 16% vit A, 55% vit C, 12% folate.

TEST KITCHEN TIP

If you want to brighten the soup’s flavour, add red wine vinegar, a teaspoon at a time, before serving.