7 minute read

WevisittheBrooklynboroughtofindthe hottest spots to eat, drink and play

RAYMONDPATRICK, PHOTOGRAPHY MELANIEHANSCHE WORDS MATTHEW WILLIAMS, JOHN VON PALMER AND STEPHEN PILE Brooklyn, NYC

WitharivalryakintotheendlessSydney-Melbournenarrative,NewYork’sBrooklyn hasemergedfromManhattan’sshadowtoequalpartspraiseandderisionfrombothits championsanditsdetractors(who’llneverleavetheirManhattanbubble).Fastgentrifying, dynamic,diverseandpainfullyhipinparts,Brooklynfeaturesathrivingfoodandartsscene, beautifulparksandpublicspaces,andshoppingasgoodasanythingovertheEastRiver. Fromthegorgeousbrownstone-linedstreetsofBrooklynHeightstothegrungygritof Williamsburg, it’s a borough whose brand has rightly become world-famous.

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SEE & SHOP

TO MARKET Nothing embodies Brooklyn’s food spirit quite like Smorgasburg, a weekly food and flea market that changes locations seasonally. This is where to get your fix of artisanal, local things from over 75 stalls, from the juicy roasted pork sandwich at Porchetta to the exemplary cheese toastie at Milk Truck Grilled Cheese and the addictive s’mores pie at Butter and Scotch. Many vendors test their concept here before opening successful bricks and mortar establishments. Don’t miss Dough’s doughnuts, the lobster rolls at Red Hook Lobster Pound, and the brisket at Mighty Quinn’s BBQ. Plus, find cool vintage stuff, design, clothing and homewares at the accompanying flea market. smorgasburg.com

URBAN RENEWAL The ever-evolving Brooklyn Bridge Park is one of the best urban planning projects restoring green space in the city. Spanning six piers, waterfront park, a carousel, theatre, beach, playgrounds and several sporting fields, it not only offers the best view of downtown Manhattan, but you can also see Lady Liberty waving at you in the distance. Walk or cycle a Citi Bike over the Brooklyn Bridge to get there or catch a quick ferry from Manhattan. Make sure you grab a cheeky ice-cream from Ample Hill’s Creamery at Pier 5 in summer. brooklynbridgepark.org

NEIGHBOURHOOD CHARM A short walk from the park is Brooklyn Heights, one of the city’s oldest and most affluent neighbourhoods. Its leafy streets and stately architecture make it charming and worth spending some time weaving through its streets past heritagelisted brownstones, wood frame houses, carriage houses and mansions. Don’t miss the Brooklyn Promenade near the water for unparalleled views of the city skyline. Other noteworthy areas in the vicinty are Forte Greene, Clinton Hill and Park Slope. Openingpage: TheBrooklynbridge: Thispage(toptobottom):TheSt.Ann’s WarehousetheatreinBrooklynBridgePark;GreenlightBookstoreinForte Greene;BoerumHillisknownforitsdiverserestaurantscene;fresh sugarcane juice from Burma Noodle Bar in Smorgasburg’s food market.

CHIC BOUTIQUES Not far from Brooklyn Heights are the neighbourhoods of Cobble Hill and Boerum Hill. Aside from sporting many excellent restaurants and cafes, they have a dynamic shopping scene along a stretch of Atlantic Avenue, especially for small, one-of-a-kind boutiques, as well as fashion powerhouses like Barneys, Rag & Bone and Steven Alan. The latter has a clothing store, optical and home shop that feature his own cool-casual designs as well as brands such as Acne Studios and A.P.C. stevenalan.com

QUIRKY COOL For unique homewares, art and antiques, visit Collier West. They have a well-chosen selection of prints, jewellery and home furnishings you’ll not see elsewhere. Especially notable is their collection of silkscreen prints on handmade Nepalese paper: the ‘Nest Study’ is particularly beautiful. Cross the street and pop in to Hunting with Jake for whimsical vintage finds, antique lights and well-made furnishings. collierwest.com; huntingwithjake.com

FOR THE SENSES Billing itself as a fragrance boutique and apothecary, Twisted Lily is a highly curated store featuring niche and indie brands of fragrances you’d likely never find on a department store floor. What you will find is emerging Brooklyn and New York perfume brands, such as Plant Brooklyn and Euphorium Brooklyn, and fun imported smells. The staff is delightful and it’s not hard to lose your afternoon picking out a new scent. twistedlily.com

Thispage(toptobottom):Brooklyn’s historicalsandstoneterraces,knownas brownstones,arenowcovetedhousing throughouttheboroughandother partsofNewYorkCity;TwistedLilysells boutiqueperfumesfrombothNewYork andabroad;thestorefrontofantique homewares store, Collier West.

Clockwisefromfarleft:TheWythe Hotelbuildingwasoriginallybuilt in1901andisnowa70-roomhotel; cocktailsatBoerumHill’sClover ClubBar;Reynardrestaurant; oneoftheguestroomsatthe WytheHotel;fiveofNuHotel’s roomsaredecoratedwithafeature wallpaintedbyalocalBrooklyn artist;FifthAvenueinParkSlope, apopularresidentialandshopping neighbourhoodinBrooklyn; the Henry NormanHotel.

STAY & RELAX

STREET SMART The Nu Hotel makes an excellent case for not judging a book by its cover. A beige exterior belies a very modern, edgy interior with cool Brooklyn street art and touches of whimsy in each of the loft-like rooms (the urban suite features a hammock). It’s really all about the location though; it’s super close to Cobble Hill, Downtown Brooklyn and Brooklyn Heights, so plenty to see, shop, eat and do in the vicinity. nuhotelbrooklyn.com

HIP HOTEL The Wythe is the coolest boutique hotel in Brooklyn for the following reasons: a chic industrial design aesthetic, its location on the Williamsburg waterfront, and killer views of the Manhattan skyline. Highly acclaimed restaurateur Andrew Tarlow runs the excellent French bistro, Reynard, downstairs and The Ides bar on the top floor offers one of the best views of the city, bar none. wythehotel.com

QUIET ACHIEVER Tucked away in the lovely, leafy neighbourhood of Greenpoint, the northernmost part of Brooklyn, the Henry Norman is a small boutique hotel in a converted warehouse. The huge rooms are light and airy and adorned with vibrant artworks, and some have their own private terraces. It definitely has that small, friendly neighbourhood vibe, while still being close to the bustle of Greenpoint and neighbouring Williamsburg. henrynormanhotel.com

EAT & DRINK

ON SONG Some of the most exciting food in Brooklyn right now – elegant, thoughtful, on point and totally delicious – is being cooked at The Finch, a Clinton Hill local serving refined bistro fare that’s sophisticated, but not overworked. A simple and relaxed exposed brick and whitewashed dining room in a brownstone is the backdrop for a menu made up of a section of small plates great for sharing, but order your own main – you won’t want to share the cavatelli pasta with nettle sauce, chanterelle mushrooms, charry Brussels and a smoked egg yolk. thefinchnyc.com

SWEET AS Sometimes, it’s all about the small touches. Like baking your own bread, making your own tortillas, using the herbs from the feature green wall in the cocktails, and sourcing veg from the chef’s dad’s farm in upstate New York. That’s exactly the shtick at Meadowsweet, a bright, breezy, green space that offers good cooking, good-looking food and damn-fine cocktails. Go for brunch, go for lunch, go for booze. meadowsweetnyc.com

EAT YOUR VEG The hottest buzzword in the city right now is ‘vegetable-forward’ – menus showcasing the humble veg as the hero. Semilla is by no means vegetarian, but celebrates vegetables in all their tasty glory with protein playing the part of sidekick. An intimate space with communal-ish counter dining, these guys are knocking it out of the park with elegant, clever, pretty food in a tasting-menu format. semillabk.com

SLICE OF THE ACTION New York has long been synonymous with pizza, and some of the city’s best, most lauded slices happen to be in Brooklyn. Try the blistered, woodfired goodness of Roberta’s Neapolitan-style pies in Bushwick (robertaspizza.com); the huge chewy-yet-crispy rounds at Lucali (lucali.com) in Carroll Gardens (a Jay-Z and Beyoncé favourite); or the new-school toppings and thin crusts of Emily’s (pizzalovesemily.com), a cosy pizzeria in Clinton Hill.

four-cheese pizza with honey and black pepper

1 teaspoon sea salt flakes 1 teaspoon dried yeast 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil 1 cup (250ml) lukewarm water 2¹⁄³ cup (350g) 00 flour+, plus extra for dusting ¼ cup (60g) mascarpone 200g fior di latte++, sliced 120g fontina, sliced ¹⁄³ cup (25g) finely grated pecorino 1 tablespoon honey cracked black pepper, for sprinkling

Place the salt, yeast, oil and water in a bowl and mix to combine. Set aside in a warm place for 5 minutes or until bubbles appear on the surface. Place the flour in the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook attached. Add the yeast mixture and beat for 6 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a lightly greased large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

Preheat oven to 240°C (475°F). Place 2 x 30cm round pizza trays in the oven for 5–10 minutes. Divide the dough into 2 balls and roll out each on a lightly floured sheet of non-stick baking paper to a 30cm round. Top each pizza with the mascarpone, fior di latte, fontina and pecorino. Remove the hot trays from the oven and slide the pizzas onto the trays. Cook for 12–15 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Drizzle with the honey and sprinkle with pepper to serve. Makes 2. + 00 flour is a superfine flour that makes for soft and stretchy dough. It’s available from the baking aisle of most supermarkets. ++ Fior di latte is a soft mozzarella from cheese shops and delicatessens.

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