LCBO F&D - Early Summer 2021 by Lawrence Ambrocio

EARLY SUMMER 2021

The Early Summer Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

@tempocraftgin

tempocraftgin.com

@nutrlvodka

nutrlvodka.com

TOM GORE CHARDONNAY $17.95

WHAT EXACTLY ARE WE SUSTAINING BY MAKING OUR WINES SUSTAINABLY?

May 1 Vintage Release LCBO 458810 90pts, Carolyn Hammond, Toronto Star

Pale gold in color, our Chardonnay features notes of pear, grilled pineapple, brown spice, and caramel with a nice richness in the mouth and a creamy texture and finish.

To make a 90-point wine — and to make one you can drink on a Tuesday — that’s a real achievement. One you want to replicate year after year.

J. LOHR ESTATES RIVERSTONE CHARDONNAY, 2019

That’s only possible if you take

$19.95

care of the land and the people

LCBO 258699 Wine Enthusiast - 90pts, Best Buy

who farm it. Which is what Sustainability is all about.

A S ALIVE A S THE PL ACE THE Y’ RE GROWN .

@CaliforniaWinesCanada @California.Wines.Canada

Bold, concentrated flavors of dark fruits, blackberries and cassis, with notes of tobacco and leather. Its robust structure and firm tannins grip the taste buds, leaving a velvety finish.

dicovercaliforniawines.com sustainablewinegrowing.org

ADVERTISING FEATURE

KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNERS’ RESERVE CHARDONNAY $21.95 now $19.95 from June 21 to July 18 LCBO 369686 92pts & Editor’s Choice – Wine Enthusiast

JOSH CELLARS SAUVIGNON BLANC

OBSESSION SYMPHONY

$18.95 now $16.95

$15.90 now $13.90

from April 26 to May 23 LCBO 643114 93pts Double Gold Medal - 2020 San Francisco International Wine Competition

Tropical flavors such as pineapple, mango, papaya and citrus intertwine with aromas of vanilla and honey to create depth and balance throughout.

Succulent aromas of citrus blossom, honeydew melon, and key lime pie over layers of pear, crème brulée, and hints of ginger. The palate features flavors of lemon, kiwi and scents of green apple.

SLOW PRESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON

FAMILY CLASSIC CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

$18.95 LCBO 15760 91pts, Editors Choice, Wine Enthusiast

Bold, concentrated flavors of dark fruits, blackberries and cassis, with notes of tobacco and leather. Its robust structure and firm tannins grip the taste buds, leaving a velvety finish.

$17.00 now $15.00 from June 21 to July 18

from April 26 to May 23 LCBO 643114 91pts Gold Medal - 2021 San Francisco International Wine Competition

Captivating aromas of honeysuckle and ginger flower. Flavors of tropical white peaches, honeydew, lychee and and a hint of ginger and almond, finishing crisp and clean.

MER SOLEIL SLH CHARDONNAY 2019 $29.95 now $27.95 from May 24 to June 20

LCBO 269753

LCBO 958975

Citrus aromas of mango and star fruit with a hint of honeysuckle. Lychee and green apple flavors coat the crisp palate with a nice touch of vanilla bean.

A lively flaxen gold featuring scents of brown spice, toasted almonds and honeysuckle. On the palate is brown spice and citrus enveloped in a creamy texture and a vibrant finish.

Product of California

TRAVEL GUIDE 2021 / 22

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE • EMERGING REGIONS NIAGARA ESCARPMENT & AREA • NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE & AREA

Click to Plan Your Visit

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features 66 Patio Perfection

By Erin McLaughlin and Christopher St. Onge There’s no place like home! Turn your patio into the ultimate summer hangout with our tips for décor, drinks and nibbles. 74 Pretty, Please

By Michelle P. E. Hunt and Laura Panter Natural ingredients delight the eyes in a full spectrum of colourful, inventive cocktails. 80 Early Risers

By Victoria Walsh The year’s first fruits and vegetables are back and bursting with flavour. We celebrate their return with delectable recipes. 86 That’s the Spirit!

By Charlene Rooke Up the ante on your gin game with the latest flavours and styles—plus twists on classic cocktails.

ON THE COVER Butterfly Pea Lemonade, Hibiscus Collins, Cardamom Apricot Sour & Chamomile Cosmo, recipes begin on page 138. Photography by James Tse.

Early Risers

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments FOOD 43 101

103 FLAVOURS

FIRE IT UP! By Eric Vellend with Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

ALL SURF, NO TURF By Alison Kent

Barbecue tips, hacks and recipes that will make sure you stay monarch of the grill for another summer.

Coast to coast, Canada’s spectacular seafood is back in season: Treat it with the recipes it deserves.

43 Fire It Up!

121 TWISTS 53 ENTERTAINING

TAKE IT EASY By Marcella DiLonardo Gorgeous no-bake desserts take the stress out of entertaining— and the heat out of the kitchen.

SLICE OF LIFE By Suresh Doss Capture the character of Ontario’s cultural diversity with three great ways to up your sandwich game.

DRINK 35 BASICS

95 ORIGINS

MEET YOUR MATCH By Dick Snyder

CANADIAN CLASSIC By Jessica Huras

From crisp and light to opulently rich, exceptionally food-friendly Chardonnay has a wine for every palate.

Rediscover the iconic Caesar cocktail, from its beginnings to the latest twists on the classic.

59 MIX IT UP

111 SEASONAL

FLAVOURS TO SAVOUR By Christine Sismondo

TOPS IN HOPS By Lisa Jackson

Vive les différences! Our expert explores a range of unique flavoured vodkas and creates cool new cocktails.

This summer brings fresh beers in an array of innovative styles to shake up your usual roster of go-to brews.

95 In every issue

139

RECIPE INDEX

139

Source Resource

By Eric Vellend

140

ONTARIO MAKERS

The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

BESPOKE BLOOMS By Brenda Morrison

12 19

EDITOR’S NOTES INSIDE SCOOP

Handmade paper botanicals to DIY or buy.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Coming next issue Available June 30 Any way you slice it Cakes that can handle the heat. Freezer pleasers Chill out with icy cocktails. Everything’s peachy! Make the most of Ontario’s summer crop. Pink off the grill Whatever the burger, reach for rosé!

VP Marketing & Customer Intelligence Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort

Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant Everton Smith

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

Food Stylists Lindsay Guscott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291.

Prop Stylists Christine Hanlon, Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier

Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 28, Number 4.

Contributors Marcella DiLonardo, Lisa Fielding, Michelle P. E. Hunt, Jessica Huras, Lisa Jackson, Alison Kent, Erin McLaughlin, Brenda Morrison, Laura Panter, Christine Sismondo, Dick Snyder, Christopher St. Onge, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Publisher Wayne Leek

All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement.

Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink, 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988 Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

LCBO NOTES

From our President & CEO

raised over $13 million dollars for charitable organizations across Ontario. And just recently, we announced over $2 million dollars in fundraising for Women’s College Hospital to support equitable healthcare for women and marginalized groups. We simply cannot thank you, our valued customers and partners, enough. Meanwhile, we are always working hard to enhance the services we offer to our customers, whether you shop with us in store or online. Sooner or later we will start entertaining again and enjoying the summer with friends and family. There is plenty in this issue of Food & Drink to serve as inspiration when that time comes, with articles about transforming your patio into the ultimate social space, news of the latest trends in wine, beer, spirits and cocktails, and of course, since we are all cooking more than ever these days, tempting recipes of every description. Here’s to summer! PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Dear friends, Summer is almost here and as the temperatures rise, so do our hopes that life may be edging a little closer to normal. With good weather—and the vaccine rollout—we can all look forward to getting out of the house and enjoying more of what we love to do at this time of year. Even if we have to stay close to home, there is so much to do around our beautiful province, and so much support we are able to give to our local restaurants as well as to our Ontario farms and farm stands. And we can still travel the world at the LCBO, the source for the best wines, beers and spirits the planet has to offer. This continues to be a challenging time, and I am proud of the LCBO team’s continued commitment to safely maintaining our operations, which in turn support key public programs that benefit the community, including across education, infrastructure and healthcare. I am also delighted by the ongoing success of our Spirit of Sustainability platform. It has never been more important to stand up for our local businesses, especially our food and beverage industry, to drive diversity, inclusion and belonging, and to carry on our important fundraising and support work. Because of your generosity, last year we

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

SINGLE MALT, MEET SUMMER Introducing The Glenlivet Caribbean Reserve, selectively finished in rum barrels for a bold & tropical taste.

COMING SOON

EDITOR’S NOTES

After what felt like the longest winter ever—and a chilly spring—we can finally expand our living space by getting out onto our porches, decks and balconies. In this issue we dive into summer’s arrival with a range of seasonal drinks, food, décor and tips to help get maximum enjoyment out of this precious season. First off, you’ll need to spruce up your outdoor space. In “Patio Perfection,” starting on page 66, Erin McLaughlin and Christopher St. Onge cover every detail from basic décor and just-right accessories to smallbite nibbles paired with delicious drinks—as well as personal touches that will give your space enviable style. Even if it’s just for two, you can now rival the best patios in town. Next, if you haven’t already, dust off the grill and start making plans for cooking outdoors all summer long. Our Food Editor, Eric Vellend, with recipe developer Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic, has compiled a top-10 list of everything you need to know to hone your skills and stay on top of the latest grilling trends. Wine Can Chicken, anyone? Check out the list, starting on page 43. The backyard’s all ready, now it’s time for a drink—and simplicity is key at this time of year. Find your ideal Chardonnay style on page 35,

or your favourite new summer brew on page 111. Explore the range of innovative gins popping up on LCBO shelves with our Drinks Editor, Charlene Rooke, for a different G&T experience every day of the week, starting on page 86. And, on page 95, gear up for Canada Day by perfecting the art of the Caesar and creating your own signature version. Finally, be sure to take full advantage of the prized produce now showing up in our farmer’s markets: treasures like morels, garlic scapes and fiddleheads, not to mention fresh Canadian seafood, are all at their peak right now. Just like summer, their seasons are oh so short, but definitely worth seeking out. We’ve put a host of those ingredients to very good use in “Early Risers” and “All Surf, No Turf ” on pages 80 and 103. And for dessert? Don’t bother turning on the oven. Treat yourself to one of the no-bake goodies from our story on page 53— and savour it out on the patio you worked so hard to create. Cheers to a summer full of al fresco moments: we hope you enjoy the issue!

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

It’s time to soak up the sun!

Digital issues Have you downloaded the Food & Drink app yet? There you’ll find the current issue — and back issues — that you can read on any device. Search LCBO Food & Drink in your device’s App store.

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

LCBO

FOOD & DRINK

NEW AT THE LCBO Bask in a refreshing aromatic bouquet of tangy citrus, cucumber and rose petals

In-store and online LCBO # 19305 Please enjoy responsibly.

PRODUCT OF CANADA royalmountgin.com @royalmountgin

RAISE YOUR SPIRITS

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY ©2021 Crystal Head and the Crystal Head bottle design are registered trademarks of Globeﬁll Inc. Vodka made in Canada. 40% alc./vol. Canada Dry Premium is a trademark of Canada Dry Mott’s Inc.

Advertising Feature

Introducing the Summer Smash, crafted with perfectly balanced Canada Dry Premium™ Tonic Water and award-winning Crystal Head Vodka. Because a great cocktail starts with a great mix. SUMMER SMASH 2 - 3 oz. Canada Dry Premium™ Tonic Water 2 oz. Crystal Head Vodka 1/2 oz. lime juice 5 - 6 mint leaves 3 strawberries In a Boston Shaker, muddle the strawberries and mint leaves in the lime juice. Add Crystal Head Vodka, ice and shake vigorously. Double strain into glass over ice. Top off with Canada Dry Premium™ Tonic Water. Garnish with extra strawberry and mint leaves.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

WELCOME

SPRING with Ontario VQA Wines One of the most exciting things about the transition to springtime weather is the chance to explore new flavours with a delectable array of Ontario wines. Find something new or rediscover a favourite vintage — local wineries offer delicious options to suit a wide variety of seasonal meals. For barbecue fare, consider a robust Ontario red to complement the smoky tones and bolder flavours imparted by grilling. Bright local rosés, with their hint of fizz and crisp acidity, are excellent with savoury recipes, like a pasta, roasted cauliflower and lentil salad with a creamy curried yogurt dressing. Clean, balanced whites, carefully crafted at vineyards right here at home, offer a refreshing accompaniment to lighter seafood and chicken dishes. And, of course, sipping an aperitif while watching the scenery grow greener and feeling the sun on your shoulders is a thoroughly enjoyable rite of spring as well. Celebrate the season with a thoughtful selection of local wines. With so many choices,

34297

you’re sure to find the perfect one to suit you. Cheers to spring!

Cave Spring Riesling Dry VQA

Pelee Island Lola Pinot Grigio VQA

233635 l 750 mL Light & Crisp (D – 10 g/L)

10485 l 750 mL Light & Crisp (XD – 5 g/L)

Pleasantly acidic, this dry, medium-bodied white offers mint aromas and citrus flavours, ideal for spring vegetable dishes.

Crisp lemon-lime notes give way to green apple and pear flavours on the finish. Enjoy this fresh white with chicken or seafood dishes.

Wayne Gretzky Cabernet Merlot VQA 75689 l 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth (D – 6 g/L)

This bold, dry, foodfriendly red offers enticing aromas of cedar and chocolate. Pair it with grilled Ontario lamb or savoury kale salad.

Sandbanks Rosé VQA 244616 l 750 mL Easygoing & Fruity (D – 13 g/L)

Off-dry and fruity, with plenty of ripe berry and watermelon aromas, this lovely rosé pairs well with roast pork and spring vegetables.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by rob fiocca & vince noguchi

As summer quickly approaches, we’ve got everything you need to embrace the alfresco lifestyle: a patriotic frozen cocktail, crisp white wines and the best burger recipes in our archives. And be sure to check out food writer Dick Snyder’s crash course on local bison and content editor Victoria Walsh’s fun tour of some of Ontario’s best pick-your-own farms.

20 Gifts that sparkle 20 The Frozen Habitant 20 Taking pride 22 Who to follow 22 Best burgers 22 Less is more 24 Low and behold 24 Light fixture 24 Risin’ bison 26 Pick your own right now 26 Light whites 28 Join the club 28 Twist and sprout 30 Insta-summer

24 Light fixture

30 Drink pink 30 Taco Tuesday 32 New summer essentials

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

INSIDE SCOOP

Cocktail of the month

The Frozen Habitant

perfect presents

Gifts that sparkle When it comes to giving wine—whether it’s for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day or any alfresco occasion—it’s hard to go wrong with bubbles. Here are three bottles at three different price points to give this season.

For the bruncher

For the locavore

For the university graduate

De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé

Trius Brut VQA

Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne

LCBO 211466, $20.90

Made from Cabernet Franc, this delicate crémant rosé has red berry ﬂavours and a frothy mousse.

LCBO 284539, $29.95

From Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., Trius’s traditional-method sparkler delivers green apple notes, nutty complexity and bracing acidity.

LCBO 462432, $59.95

To kick oﬀ summer, we’ve taken a sixties-era cocktail and reimagined it as an icy blender drink. The Frozen Habitant (recipe page 127) whirls Canadian whisky, maple syrup, lemon juice and bitters into a polar vortex, yielding a smooth, refreshing libation that’s sweet, sour and smoky. Have this one at the ready for Victoria Day and for barbecues through to fall. Visit the Cocktail of the Month page at lcbo.com/fdcocktail to watch this drink being made.

Known for its iconic red label, this Champagne is relatively light in style, with a remarkably intense ﬂavour and a lip-smacking ﬁnish.

Taking pride Sour Puss, the maker of sweet, sour and colourful liqueurs, is a proud supporter of the rainbow during Toronto Pride. Not only does it sponsor drag brunches, host cocktail classes and partner with local inﬂuencers, but the brand also matches donations to LGBTQ2+ community non-proﬁts. Follow along on Instagram #SourPussPurrride. with #SourPussPurrride Sour Puss Raspberry Liquor (LCBO 518670, $20.95) Sour Puss Pineapple Coconut Liquor (LCBO 439620, $21.95) Sour Puss Apple Liquor (LCBO 518688, $20.95) Sour Puss Blue Liquor (LCBO 601518, $20.95)

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

W NE

MADE WITH real fruit juice and real good vibes. alc./vol.

130

CALORIES PER 355 M L

KEEP IT REAL @SWAYBEVERAGES Must be legal drinking age. Please drink responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Who to follow: @caribbeanpot The mouth-watering Instagram account of Hamilton, Ont.-based cookbook author and food personality Chris de la Rosa explores “the rich and diverse culinary culture of the Caribbean.” He’s even more popular on YouTube—with over 700,000 subscribers—where his channel CaribbeanPot oﬀers entertaining cooking demos, including 20-Minute Curried Chicken and the Best Stewed Oxtails.

WHAT’S NEW

Dig into our contributors’ favourite burgers!

As we head into summer, be sure to check out the ready-to-drink shelves at your local LCBO. From seltzers to smashes to vodka sodas, there are dozens of new options with less sugar, reduced alcohol and fewer calories. Here are four bevvies to look for.

Jack Daniel’s Georgian Bay Peach Half Smash No Sugar Cola LCBO 19136, 355 mL,

LCBO 19099, 355 mL,

$2.70

$3.00

Ace Hill Strawberry SoCIAL LITE Grapefruit Vodka Mango Lemonade LCBO 19115, 473 mL, Soda LCBO 19155, 355 mL,

$2.95

$2.75

Best burgers Can’t decide which Food & Drink burger recipe to make this weekend? To narrow things down, we asked some of our contributors to pick their all-time favourites. Jennifer MacKenzie chose her “over-the-top” Turducken Burgers—double-stuffed patties of turkey, chicken and smoked duck glazed in cherry barbecue sauce. Christopher St. Onge went with his Thai-inspired Lime Leaf Pork Burger with Chili-Garlic Jam and LimeGlazed Bacon. And I picked my Smash Burgers with Cheese, Pickles and Special Sauce. These juicy, fast-food-style burgers are cooked in a cast iron skillet, which can be heated on the grill to keep the party outdoors. Find the recipes at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

WHO TO FOLLOW IMAGES BY GERARD RICHARDSON

Less is more

INSIDE SCOOP TRENDSPOTTING

Risin’ bison Saved from extinction 150 years ago, bison are thriving again thanks to hundreds of mostly small family farms across Canada. Always a chef’s favourite, this nutritious and eco-friendly protein is showing up at more grocery stores and butcher shops. By Dick Snyder

Taste Bison is rich, nutty and earthy—like high-quality beef, but less fatty. Health It’s about 25 percent lower in fat and calories than beef, and high in vitamins and minerals.

TRENDSPOTTING

Low and behold The trend of lower-alcohol-by-volume (ABV) drinks has now entered the spirits section. Here are two options to lighten up your summer.

18.8 Vodka

Botica Low Alcohol Gin

LCBO 15282, $28.20

LCBO 13736, 500 mL, $26.95

Distilled in Niagara Falls, Ont., for nearby Brampton-based Fluid Assets, this local spirit has less than half the alcohol of traditional vodka. Try it in a vodka soda or Moscow Mule.

This small-batch Spanish gin has only 14.5% alcohol, about the same as red wine. It’s not the best gin for a Martini, but it’s excellent with tonic.

WHAT’S NEW

Light fixture

Sustainability Bison roam free on grasslands reclaimed from commercial grain production, and many farms are carbonnegative—meaning they sequester more carbon than they emit. Bison du Nord (bisondunord.com), a ranch near North Bay, Ont., follows guidelines for regenerative farming, which requires a 100-year sustainable stewardship plan. Look for bison meat that has been certiﬁed by A Greener World.

Cook Scott Vivian, chef-owner of Beast in Toronto, says bison is “one of our most popular whole-animal dinners.” He recommends pan-frying or grilling and, as with any quality steak, seasoning simply with salt and pepper. Since bison is so lean, Vivian doesn’t recommend cooking it past medium-rare. Buy Find it at select grocers and butchers, including Loblaws, Longo’s and Woodward Meat Purveyors (woodwardmeats.com). Ground bison is around $17 per pound, and strip steaks are $35 per pound. See the Canadian Bison Association (canadianbison.ca) for more details.

The most beloved brand of Irish cream has embraced its lighter side. Packaged in a bright white bottle, Baileys Deliciously Light (LCBO 19419, $30.45) has the same richness and ﬂavour as the original with 40 percent less sugar and fewer calories. Add a splash to your weekend iced coﬀee, or pour it over ice cream for an adult sundae.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP SEASONAL SIPS

DAY TRIPS

Pick your own right now Ontario has an abundance of farms where you can pick your own fresh goods. We’ve rounded up a few great spots that go above and beyond loading up on freshly picked pints to offer DIY bouquets, must-try house-made sweets and food trucks, plus entertaining events. Each visit is worth making a day of it, but please do confirm hours before you head out! By Victoria Walsh

Andrews Farm Market & Winery, Milton, andrewsscenicacres.com Go to load up on a haul of in-season options, like strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus. Stay for the walking trails, animal corral and playground, plus barbecue lunch and custom ice cream on weekends—request your favourite fruits, which are then pressed into ice cream or frozen yogurt (a combination of peach and raspberry is said to be life-changing). Mark your calendar for later in the summer so you can visit the Sunﬂower Kingdom for a stunning photo op and to pick some pretty peonies and dahlias.

Downey’s Strawberry & Apple Farm, Caledon, downeysfarm.com Kick off the season by picking your own luscious strawberries from this third-generation family farm—later, you’ll find raspberries and apples. Be sure to pop by the family’s neighbouring farm to check out their play area if you have littles. Pick up rotating offerings like rainbow fudge in celebration of pride, seasonal strawberry hard apple cider and flavoured sparkling water, and don’t miss their specialty doughnuts, made with ingredients like strawberry, blueberry and pumpkin. Downey’s is famous for their pumpkin doughnuts, producing them all year (and even starting the baking process at 4 a.m. in the peak of fall).

Brooks Farms, Mount Albert, brooksfarms.com Love bramble- or mixed-berry pie? We’ve got just the stop for you. A visit to Brooks means you can gather classic strawberries, plus berries that aren’t as commonly available for pick-your-own, like saskatoon berries, gooseberries, and red and black raspberries. Plus, currants and fresh peas are ripe for the plucking too. Be sure to grab some maple muﬃns (made with syrup from Brooks’s sugar bush) and have the house-smoked pulled pork at their food truck. Check in on their events throughout the season, as they often have local vendor markets and visiting food trucks, and hope to host a food truck festival in the future.

Stuck in a Pinot Grigio rut? There are plenty of interesting, affordable light whites to gently nudge you out of your comfort zone. From Austria, zesty Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner 13 (LCBO 375022, $13.95) delivers grapefruit flavour and Grüner’s patented white pepper spice. Lightly effervescent Casal Garcia Vinho Verde DO (LCBO 530261, $9.95) from Portugal is a juicy summer favourite—chill well and serve with grilled seafood. Finally, Spain’s remarkably consistent Marqués de Riscal Rueda DO (LCBO 36822, $14.20) is fresh, medium-bodied and a great introduction to the Verdejo grape.

Strawberry Creek Farms, Newmarket, strawberrycreekfarms.ca This is the perfect choice for a day of strawberry picking! If you want to add to your personally plucked pints, their market is an excellent one-stop shop for when you’re going away for the weekend. Find Ontario meats, local Sheldon Creek dairy, fresh cheese curds, butter tarts and pies. Look out for special treats that pop up, like iced coﬀee. I once had the pleasure of enjoying tasty poutine from their food truck while watching pumpkins being catapulted into the ﬁeld.

Check on upcoming farm events by visiting summerfunguide.ca/fun-farms-u-pick-markets.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

PICK YOUR OWN IMAGE BY ©ISTOCK.COM/ZORANM

Light whites

THIS SIP IS

BANANAS. GET RIPE ON IT, ONLY FOR A LIMITED TIME.

NEW RAINBLOW YOUR MIND 3 FLAVOURS ARE BETTER THAN 1

Enjoy responsibly. Must be legal drinking age. ® Palm Bay beverage co., Used under license.

INSIDE SCOOP TRENDSPOTTING

The Gorgeous Spice Company

Butcher Box

thegorgeousspiceco.com

butcherbox.ca

Offering 3-, 6- and 12-month memberships, this company delivers a unique small-batch spice blend plus one of the blend’s key spices every month. To teach and inspire, they also email you a recipe-packed ’zine, a chef’s podcast and a playlist, all geared to each month’s theme.

This Mississauga, Ont., company offers quality frozen meats raised in Ontario, including freerange chicken, grass-fed beef and centre-cut bacon. There is a lot of choice and flexibility, and boxes cater to everyone from a single condo dweller to a hungry family of five.

The Cheese Bar

General Assembly Pizza

thecheesebar.ca

gapizza.com

The popular Cheese Club from this Windsor, Ont., shop offers a few options, ranging from just cheese to a more substantial box of charcuterie and accoutrements. Every subscriber gets three cheeses per month, all from Canada, with a minimum of one pound of each.

Born out of the pandemic, the world’s first pizza subscription delivers frozen, vacuum-packed 10-inch pizzas all over central and southwestern Ontario. The pies are naturally leavened, come in 10 gourmet flavours and go from freezer to table in under seven minutes.

ASK AN EXPERT

Twist and sprout Sprouts and microgreens are healthy, tasty and grown right here in Ontario. To learn more about the verdant shoots, we talked to Steve Bacon, who runs Four Season Greens (fourseasongreens.com) with his wife, Sharon, in Muskoka. What are some of the advantages of growing sprouts in Ontario? If you want to grow food 12 months of the year, sprouts are the easiest to do. In one to two weeks, you get fresh, nutrient-dense food. You can get everything you need from sprouts. It’s why many herbivores can live off just grass. What is the difference between sprouts and microgreens? They’re basically the same—seeds grown to the first set of leaves, called cotyledons. Sprouts are grown in water, and you get the whole plant. With microgreens, the seeds are in soil, and you let them grow a little bit longer and then cut them above the soil.

Is it easy to grow sprouts at home? We have short video courses on our website showing a step-by-step for both sprouts and microgreens. It just takes a minute to water three times a day, and you’re in business. It’s very economical: 30 to 40 cents’ worth of seeds will give you one pound of sprouts.

Beyond sandwiches and salads, what are some interesting ways to use sprouts? A lot of people say, “I can’t eat those hairy little things!” So throw them in smoothies. Moms are always hiding things that way.

Any tips for the home grower? Alfalfa and clover are two of the easiest to grow. The key is to switch them from a jar to an open mesh basket after four days, which allows them to breathe and eliminates mushiness. Expose them to light in the kitchen or a north-facing window. And use cold water: Sprouts give off heat when they grow, and it cools them down.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

PORTRAITS BY COLIN WILKINSON; SPROUTS BY ©ISTOCK.COM/ANTIMARTINA

Join the club

With the boom in food subscriptions, you can now get everything from artisanal spices to heat-and-serve pizza delivered right to your front door every month, just like your favourite magazines. Here are four local outfits worth checking out.

INSIDE SCOOP TRENDSPOTTING DINNER’S READY

Instasummer Just because braising season is over doesn’t mean you have to put away the Instant Pot. The beloved appliance can save you time on dozens of summer favourites. For example, it makes quick work of beans and whole grains for a wide range of salads. The same goes for pork shoulder or other tough cuts of meat for lettuce wraps, tacos and saucy sandwiches. And when corn is in season, whip up a creamy chowder or Cajun shrimp boil. You can even use the Instant Pot for dessert, be it a peach cobbler or cherrytopped cheesecake.

Drink pink From wine to spirits, pink drinks are red hot. Here are three bottles to put a tint in your glass.

Gran Passione Rosato IGT Veneto

Absolut Juice Strawberry Edition

LCBO 13522, $15.95

LCBO 13188, $32.95

This medium-bodied Merlot-based rosé is wonderful on its own or in a spritzer with an orange twist.

Pour this pink vodka— made with real strawberry juice—in a highball glass with soda and ice, and garnish with a lime wedge.

Malfy Gin Con Rosa LCBO 636068, $41.45

Infused with rhubarb and pink grapefruit, this lovely Italian gin will take a Greyhound to the next level.

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdearlysummer21

Make your drinks blush this summer.

THE TAKE-AWAY

Taco Tuesday From its cheesy pupusas to its beefy burritos, Latin American cuisine is usually paired with colourful sodas or ice-cold cervezas. If wine is your drink of choice, try opening Flat Rock Riesling VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 43281, $17.95) on your next taco night. This zesty, local white has the complexity to match the bold ﬂavours— and a hint of sweetness that will temper any chili-ﬁred heat.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Summer Ready Lola Sparkling Rosé and Pinot Grigio are now available in individual 250 ml aluminum bottles. PORTABLE • RESEALABLE • RECYCLABLE Sip into summer with Lola.

Please Enjoy Responsibly.

INSIDE SCOOP

Impressive spreads

4 things

New summer essentials

From Canadian chef Chuck Hughes’s pantry to your backyard, My Kitchen Staples (three 375-mL jars, $19.99) features a tasty trio of mild spreads: Pepper, Eggplant and Antipasto. Besides topping burgers and hot dogs, try adding to pasta, omelettes and more. Available exclusively at select Hudson’s Bay stores and thebay.com.

These convenient boxes—and a handy bucket—are ready to gift, or to take backyard grilling from everyday to gourmet. By Brenda Morrison

Stock up, only available in the summer. Send as a gift or order online to give in person.

Famous burgers Cause for celebration! Burgers from Webers, the famous cottage-drive must-stop, are now available in the freezer section of most grocery stores, including Loblaws and Fortinos. Each reusable bucket contains 10 pre-made burgers ($14.99).

Spice route Gourmet condiments Classic condiments have been taken to a whole new level with Salt Spring Kitchen Co.’s Gourmet Burger Collection (three 125-mL jars, $25). Instantly upgrade an everyday burger with Candied Jalapeño Relish (a must try!), Spicy Tomato Savoury Spread and Charcuterie Mustard. For retailers, visit saltspringkitchen.com.

Crafted in small batches by The Muskoka Pantry, the Global Grillers Kit (six 2-oz tins, $45) oﬀers a tasty trip around the world with exotic spice blends, including Jamaican Jerk, Indian Spice and Smokey African. Available online at themuskokapantry.com.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

POINT RATING

CELEBRATING OUR HISTORY. CONTINUING THE LEGACY.

Since 1970, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has showcased Napa Valley’s amazing wines to the world. We carry our history forward with true passion and dedication to express the distinct character of our historic estate vineyards. We invite you to enjoy a glass of our Cabernet Sauvignon, always available at the LCBO as a Vintages Essential.

LCBO # 708982 PRICE: $ 89.95 NEW VINTAGES ESSENTIAL

BASICS

The myth that a white wine should be served in a smaller glass than a red is just that: a myth. A larger bowl and gently narrowing rim help amplify and focus the aromatics in any wine— and will help make your Chardonnay sing.

Meet your match Don’t like Chardonnay? Perhaps you just haven’t found the right one. Our style guide to this crisp white may change your mind, even if you’ve subscribed to the ABC movement. By Dick Snyder | photography by darren kemper

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Chardonnay is the second most planted white grape in the world. This fact alone should give you a sense of its importance among winemakers and wine lovers. Why is it so special? Well, Chardonnay is remarkably adaptable to growing regions, which means it can flourish in climates from South Africa’s ocean coast to Chile’s Andean hillsides and from the cooler reaches of Northern Italy to the desert climes of Sicily. It loves Burgundy’s golden slopes, the cool lakeside plains of Prince Edward County, Ont., and New Zealand’s ocean breezes. Winemakers love it because it can handle a variety of oak treatments, types of fermentation and viticulture (growing and harvesting) methods. What you need to know is that in all its iterations, Chardonnay is an incredibly food-friendly wine, as perfect for dinner for one as it is for a family meal or special toast (Champagne, after all, typically contains Chardonnay). For these reasons, it offers an incredible range of flavour profiles—so many variations, in fact, that there really is a Chardonnay for everyone. You may just not know it yet. Read on and get ready to excite your taste buds.

MEET YOUR MATCH

Round and flavourful STYLE These wines have more substance, flavour and texture than other styles. It all adds up to extra “oomph,” whether that’s tropical, savoury or silky. Their alcohol levels are slightly higher, and they have more body and aromatic complexity. LOOK FOR “Oak aging” on the label, which imparts sweet spice, vanilla and toasty flavours; “Aromatic & Flavourful” or “Medium-Bodied & Flavourful” on the LCBO shelf label. Expect flavours of ripe or baked apple, orange, fresh mushroom and sweet basil.

Ontario

Burgundy

California

Packed with personality and a wonderful perfume, this wine is made with a special clone of Chardonnay known for full flavour and a slightly herbal edge.

Delicious and the quintessential Chardonnay, this one has ripe apple, citrus, delicate herbal tones and a hint of vanilla spice. It’s complex and spicy enough for intricate dishes.

This Sonoma beauty delivers California sunshine in a ripe, fruity and beautifully balanced wine. It’s pretty, with enough heft to carry richer, more serious food matches.

Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

933077, $24.95

962886, $29.95

Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay Musqué VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

246579, $17.95

The savoury and citrus flavours of Firecracker Chicken Salad (recipe at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21) make fast friends with a round and expressive Chardonnay.

REGIONS Find great Ontario and Burgundy wines, plus those from Napa, Calif., and Washington. PAIRINGS These mediumbodied wines are great with global cuisines, matching well with spicy and savoury foods.

Winemakers use oak like cooks use seasonings on food. Even neutral (used) oak barrels add texture without detracting from a wine’s bright fruitiness.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

BEYOND M AT E R I A L

MEET YOUR MATCH

Fresh and fruity STYLE Fruity and perfumed, with a light body, low alcohol and crisp acidity—these are bright and lively wines. Like dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc? Try these. LOOK FOR “Unoaked” on the label; “Light & Crisp” or “Light & Fruity” on the LCBO shelf label. Flavours of apple, lemon, lime, peach and/or pear. Flinty or stony notes in these wines are often described as “mineral.” Warmer-region wines might have tropical flavours like pineapple or mango. REGIONS Find great examples from Ontario, Chile, New Zealand and Burgundy (especially Chablis). PAIRINGS Think aperitif— great for casual occasions and cocktail parties.

Salty snacks are perfect. Crushed Pea Crostini with Westphalian Ham soars. Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21.

Chile

Ontario

Burgundy

Pure fresh fruit with crisp apple and melon flavours, this wine is superb value and delicious with a variety of simple snacks.

It’s all about the fruit. Ripe and juicy, with no oak influence, just fresh and lively, and a good match for light dishes and cocktail treats.

Chablis is Chardonnay ground zero. This citrus-driven wine delivers tons of mouth-watering zest. Perfect for oysters and tasty, salty bites.

Inniskillin Unoaked Chardonnay VQA LCBO 66266, $14.45

Bouchard Père & Fils Petit Chablis LCBO 51466, $26.50

Cono Sur Chardonnay Organic LCBO 230565, $14.25

Lightly oaked wines might be added to the blend for their subtle spice and texture. But these wines are always lively, fresh and fruity.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

SUMMER’S HERE AND THE SIPPIN’ IS JUICY

@COWBELLBREWING | COWBELLBREWING.COM | PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

A classic match for a big, rich and oaky Chardonnay is this creamy and earthy Mushroom Risotto (recipe at lcbo.com/ fdearlysummer21).

MEET YOUR MATCH

Rich and complex STYLE These are usually a winery’s top tier, crafted from the best fruit sourced from prestigious vineyards, often with older vines. They’re concentrated, rich and full-bodied, with glorious texture often described as “supple” or “silky.” LOOK FOR Deep gold colour. On the label, look for “hand-picked,” “hand-sorted” and a mention of new French oak barrels. On the shelf label, seek “Medium-Bodied & Flavourful” or “Full-Bodied & Rich.” Flavours of ripe apple, citrus, guava, persimmon and mango, and spices like clove and vanilla. They’re buttery, textured and rich. REGIONS These wines are at home in Burgundy (especially Cote d’Or), Napa and Sonoma, Ontario, Australia and South Africa. PAIRINGS With big dishes like lobster or veal in cream or mushroom sauce.

Ontario

California

Burgundy

Superb value in a fullflavoured and remarkably deep Chardonnay. It’s a perfect match with richer dishes and creamy sauces, but also a delicious sipper.

This is Napa in a restrained and refined style: apple, lemon, elegant spice, and a long and supple finish. It’s classy, and irresistible in any setting.

A definitive Burgundian style with ripe apple, melon, citrus and sweet oak spice, it’s a voluptuous wine that perfectly demonstrates the beauty of quality French oak.

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay

Bouchard Père & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé LCBO 56580, $35.95

Speck Brothers Family Tree “The Goat Lady” Chardonnay VQA LCBO 16792, $16.95

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

Look for almond, hazelnut and other umami flavours, as these wines are generally designed for longevity, which comes with lengthy barrel aging.

84988, $25.95

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

101

WINE CAN CORNISH HENs WITH SUMAC & POMEGRANATE MOLASSES Recipe on page 131

Fire it up! Polish your grill, stock up on fuel and get ready for another epic season of roasting, sizzling and searing with these barbecue tips, hacks and recipes. By Eric Vellend with Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic photography by James Tse

WINE CAN CORNISH HENs WITH PARSLEY, HONEY & PECANS Recipe on page 132

1 WINE CAN CHICKEN

FOOD & DRINK

Beer can chicken has a brand new bag. With wine in a can so widely available, it was only natural to swap it for suds in the beloved poultry preparation. Red or white, the wine steams the bird from the inside, giving it a certain French flair. There is one caveat: Most wine comes in 250-millilitre cans, which are too small for the aver-

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

age chicken. They are, however, perfect for Cornish hens. Try Bodacious Pinot Grigio (LCBO 10426, 250 mL, $3.95) in Wine Can Cornish Hens with Parsley, Honey & Pecans or Lindeman’s Shiraz (LCBO 647719, 250 mL, $4.45) in Wine Can Cornish Hens with Sumac & Pomegranate Molasses.

What is a Cornish Hen? It is a specific breed of small chicken originating from England. They can be either male or female and typically weigh from 1 1/2 to 2 lbs (680 to 905 g), making them ideal for individual portions. Upcycle Hack If you don’t have a can of wine available for the recipe, use a small-format soda or tonic water can. Rinse it well and fill halfway with your choice of wine.

FIRE IT UP!

2 FIRE STARTER

Propane check Wondering if you have enough propane for dinner? Before you light up the ’cue, pour hot water down the side of the tank. Pat your hand down the tank: When it goes from warm to cold, you’ve found the level.

If you want to fire up charcoal without lighter fluid or expensive gadgets, there is an underappreciated method used among backyard chefs. Build a mound of charcoal (lump or briquettes), and burn four hot spots with a blowtorch. To get things moving along, a hair dryer (set to cool) will huff and puff and blow your fire into white-hot coals in no time.

CLEAN YOUR GRILL WITHOUT A BRUSH

Fish that won’t stick

If your grill brush has reached an unsightly state, you can clean your grate with two common household items. Make a ball of foil to rub over the hot grate with a pair of tongs. Or use the cut side of half an onion: The acidity and moisture act as natural cleaners, plus it flavours the grill.

Do you have trouble grilling fish without it sticking and falling apart? Here’s a simple trick: Make an aromatic bed of citrus slices and herb sprigs, and then place the fish on top, cover and grill. Winning combos include lemon and dill, and orange and rosemary.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

FIRE IT UP!

MISO PORK & JAPANESE EGGPLANT SKEWERS Recipe on page 131

THE ART OF THE SKEWER

Nothing says summer like food on a stick. Here’s how to take your kebab game to the next level.

Choose a protein that will produce tender skewers, such as beef and pork tenderloin, boneless chicken thigh and breast, shrimp, scallops and thicker, firmer fish such as salmon and halibut. Cut meat across the grain and into pieces of equal thickness so they cook evenly. Make sure vegetables with a high water content, such as zucchini and mushrooms, are firmly bookended on

the skewers by ingredients that will hold them in place.

Marinate your meat beforehand to add flavour and tenderize.

If using a sweet marinade, be sure to grill over a low heat and check often to prevent burning.

Use two skewers for foods that tend to shift, such as fish and shrimp. Run the skewers side by side through all the ingredients— this keeps everything uniform and in place.

Stick it to ’em! Here are your skewer options.

Get your global grill game on Many of the world’s delicious street foods are meat and vegetables on sticks—google “street food skewers” for a world of inspiration!

Bamboo skewers, while disposable, are biodegradable.

Metal skewers are solid and reusable, and last a lifetime.

Shaped like a small sword, a Middle Eastern kebab skewer is flat, which is great for encasing with seasoned ground meat. PRO TIP: To eliminate the 30-minute soaking time for bamboo skewers, place in a glass baking dish with enough water to cover. Microwave on high for 2 minutes and then drain, let cool and start skewering!

A little dip can’t hurt Depending on the type of skewer you make, think about having a side sauce to dip into. Tzatziki, hummus, raita, hot barbecue sauce, ajvar and aïoli all make great options.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

FIRE IT UP!

6 TURN YOUR GRILL INTO A PIZZA OVEN

To recreate charred and chewy restaurant pizza at home, a pizza stone or steel makes all the difference. Made of ceramic or steel, it absorbs and retains the intense heat of the grill, simulating the base of a commercial pizza oven. This essential tool will transform your backyard into a neighbourhood pizzeria and turn out perfect pies every time. You can find pizza stones and steels at most housewares stores—Lee Valley (leevalley.com) carries a set of four square stones, which can be placed together for one large pizza or spaced separately for individual pies.

GRILLED “PIZZA AL TONNO” WITH TOMATO & HERB SALAD Recipe on page 132

The right tools Pizza Perfection Make sure to have all your ingredients prepped and at the ready, just as a pizzaiolo would. This allows you to work quickly and not get pulled away from the task at hand. Avoid leaving toppings on the dough for too long, or it will get soggy and be tricky to transfer. And always keep a bowl of flour handy to lightly dust any surfaces the dough touches, such as your work surface, rolling pin or pizza peel. PRO TIP: Semolina flour makes sliding a pizza off the peel a breeze.

Rolling pin—to roll out the dough (though a wine bottle will do in a pinch). Pizza stone or steel— for a crisp crust. Pizza peel—a wood or metal spatula-like tool for transferring the pizza from counter to grill and back again. Pizza wheel—to make quick work of cutting a pizza.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

M e z z o c o r o n a ’s v i l l a g e, Tr e n t i n o . Drink Mezzacorona Responsibly

Captured in

MADE IN TRENTINO, ITALY

Mezzacorona wines transport you to Trentino with just one taste. Enjoy our crisp Pinot Grigio and flavorful Pinot Noir,

w w w. m e z z a c o r o n a . i t

both elegant expressions of this beautiful land. A U T H E N T I C.

SUSTAINABLE QUALITY.

S U S TA I N A B L E.

Trentino has been named “Wine Region of the Year 2020” by Wine Enthusiast.

I TA L I A N.

FIRE IT UP!

Plant-based proteins If you’ve got a vegan coming over for dinner, there are a number of easy-to-cook plant-based proteins to throw on the grill. Cut extra-firm tofu into chunks and thread onto skewers with veggies and a bold marinade. Pick up a package of Impossible Burger (Sobeys, 340 g, $11.99), a vegan faux mince for next-level veggie burgers. Or grill a hunk of seitan (a.k.a. wheat gluten), glaze with teriyaki sauce and slice it like a steak.

MISSING LINK

Hot dogs and other precooked sausages have a tendency to dry out on the grill. For moist, juicy links every time, give them a bath first. Bring a pot of water to a boil, add your dogs, cover

and remove from the heat. When they’re hot, drain and quickly grill to crisp and char the exterior. Once you’ve embraced this two-step method, there’s no going back.

GRILLING CORN

When it comes to grillfriendly wines, turn to Ontario. Here are my top three picks.

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut VQA

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling VQA

LCBO 217505, $32.95

LCBO 89029, $18.95

Delicious with fish, chicken and even lamb, this pink sparkler goes with just about everything.

This racy, off-dry Riesling is the perfect pour with pork, from slow-smoked ribs to spicy sausages.

Try with: Grilled “Pizza al Tonno” with Tomato & Herb Salad

Try with: Miso Pork & Japanese Eggplant Skewers

Malivoire Gamay VQA LCBO 591313, $19.95

This bright, fruity red is light enough to enjoy with grilled salmon, and it has enough heft to match a juicy cheeseburger. Try with: Wine Can Cornish Hens with Sumac & Pomegranate Molasses

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

GRILLED CORN BY MRZAZAZ/ADOBE STOCK

Boiling corn for a crowd can turn into a logistical nightmare. There is a better way. Soak ears of corn in their husks for two hours. Drain and grill over high heat, turning occasionally, until nicely charred, about 15 minutes. Place in a stockpot or clean cooler, drape with a kitchen towel and cover with a lid for up to two hours. The corn stays hot while you’re grilling the rest of dinner, and when it’s time to serve, just peel and eat!

Best BBQ wines

Sparkling Pink Grapefruit A delicious soda made with real juice including juice from hand-picked Florida pink grapefruits. Perfectly pairs with tequila for a classic paloma or vodka for a refreshingly light spritz.

30 CALORIES

NO ARTIFICIAL FLAVOURS OR COLOURS

SINGLE MALT, MEET SUMMER

DISCOVER THE MANY SIDES OF SINGLE MALT

Introducing the Glenlivet Caribbean Reserve, selectively finished in rum barrels for a bold & tropical taste.

ENTERTAINING

BY Marcella D i Lonardo | photography By darren kemper

Take it easy

Lemon Lavender Bars Recipe on page 138

Go ahead and leave your oven off. These no-bake desserts remove the stress— and the heat—from prepping a sweet finish to your meal.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

TAKE IT EASY

AVOCADO & KEY LIME PIE

The unexpected addition of avocado gives this raw key lime pie the creamiest filling. This dessert is both vegan and gluten-free, the crust is made with a blend of nuts and is naturally sweetened with Medjool dates. For the filling, be sure to use 100% pure Canadian maple syrup for best results.

CRUST 1 cup (250 mL) raw unsalted almonds 1 cup (250 mL) raw unsalted cashews 1⁄3 cup (80 mL) unsweetened ﬂaked coconut 12 Medjool dates, pitted 2 tbsp (30 mL) pure maple syrup 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract 1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) ﬁne salt

FILLING 2 ripe avocados 1 tsp (5 mL) key lime zest 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) fresh key lime juice 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) pure maple syrup 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) coconut oil, melted and cooled 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) coconut cream 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract Pinch ﬁne salt

Whipped coconut cream Sliced key limes Toasted coconut

2 Transfer to a 9-inch (23-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom. Press mixture into bottom and sides of pan to form an even crust. Refrigerate until ready to use, 30 minutes to overnight.

1 For the crust, to a food processor, add almonds, cashews, coconut, dates, maple syrup, vanilla and salt. Blend until mixture begins to clump together, about 2 minutes.

3 For the ﬁlling, to a food processor, add avocados, key lime zest and juice, maple syrup, coconut oil, coconut cream, vanilla and salt. Blend until silky smooth, about 4 minutes.

GARNISH

4 Pour filling over prepared crust and, using an offset spatula, smooth top. Refrigerate until filling has fully set, about 4 hours. 5 Garnish with whipped coconut cream, sliced key limes and a sprinkle of toasted coconut. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Serves 8 to 10

WHAT TO SERVE Delicately sweet, this wine has nutmeg and honey tones that augment the pie’s nutty crust. Fine bubbles reduce the dish’s richness while gently refreshing the palate. Batisiolo Bosc d’la Rei Moscato d’Asti DOCG LCBO 277194, $16.95

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

TAKE IT EASY STRAWBERRY & CHAMOMILE PARFAIT This dreamy dessert infuses the floral flavours of chamomile tea into a light and airy custard filling. It pairs beautifully with the orange-marinated strawberries and is a great make-ahead treat for your next small gathering. Garnish with mint, if you have it on hand, or for endless summer vibes, use fresh or dried edible flowers.

4 Cook over medium heat, continuously whisking, until mixture begins to thicken, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Pour custard through a ﬁne-mesh strainer and transfer to a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap (directly touching the custard to avoid a skin forming) and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.

5 Beat remaining 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream to stiﬀ peaks. Once custard has fully chilled, gently fold whipping cream into custard. 6 Evenly divide mixture among 4 serving glasses. Top with marinated strawberries, walnuts and garnish, if desired.

WHAT TO SERVE This fruit-forward Moscato’s delicately sweet and sparkling nature will stand up to the richness of the dessert. Jacob’s Creek Moscato Rosé Sparkling LCBO 445825, $13.95

Serves 4

MARINATED STRAWBERRIES 2 pints Ontario strawberries, hulled and quartered 2 tbsp (30 mL) icing sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) orange liqueur Zest of 1 orange 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh orange juice

CUSTARD 1 cup (250 mL) whole milk 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream, divided 3 chamomile tea bags 3 large egg yolks 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) cornstarch 1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) ﬁne salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) pure vanilla extract Chopped walnuts, for garnish

1 For the marinated strawberries, in a large mixing bowl, toss together strawberries, sugar, liqueur and orange zest and juice until combined. Refrigerate until ready to use (up to 24 hours in advance). 2 For the custard, in a saucepan over medium-low heat, add milk, 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream and tea bags. Bring mixture to a gentle simmer (do not boil) and remove from heat. Let stand for 10 minutes to allow tea to steep into milk. Discard tea bags. 3 In a small mixing bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt. Slowly pour in cream mixture while vigorously whisking. Once incorporated, pour mixture back into saucepan.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

@amarulacanada Amarula is a rare find. Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada | pmacanada.com | amarula.com

MIX IT UP summer bar additions

Flavours to savour Think vodka’s neutral? Not these days. This season’s fresh and wild new expressions will have you looking at this spirit in a new light. By Christine Sismondo photography by darren kemper

THE BARISTA Recipe on page 137

Espresso Shot There have been a lot of great coffee liqueurs, but Pravda Espresso Flavoured Vodka’s (LCBO 18171, $48.00) intense and authentic espresso aroma and taste practically transports you to a busy European coffee house. With its perfect balance of bittersweet flavours, it is exceptionally easy to mix with.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Give your next spicy beef chili or barbecue sauce a little smoke, richness and extra depth of flavour by adding a couple of ounces of espresso vodka. For a double hit of coffee goodness, it can also be mixed into almost any savoury pork or beef marinade.

Basically any dessert topping— whipped cream, dulce de leche or chocolate syrup—can be transformed with Pravda Espresso Flavoured Vodka. But our favour‑ ite use is swapping it for the bran‑ dy in a traditional indulgent Italian zabaglione for an extra‑special coffee‑tinged after‑dinner treat.

Making a great Black Russian just got a whole lot easier thanks to this robust and delicious espresso vodka—simply add ice. For the White Russian lover in your life, add a shot of milk or, for added richness, half‑and‑half cream.

FLAVOURS TO SAVOUR

The Power of Pink From sangria to classic cocktails, there’s no shortage of brilliant ways to use Svedka Rosé Vodka (LCBO 18174, $28.20), a novel blend of vodka and actual rosé wine. And in case you thought all-day rosé couldn’t make a comeback as the “it” drink for yet another year, this creative and elegant spirit proves pink’s got serious staying power.

EVER HAVE TO CHOOSE BETWEEN A GLASS OF CRISP ROSÉ AND A SMART VODKA COCKTAIL? DECISION FATIGUE IS A REAL THING, BUT THOSE DAYS ARE FINALLY OVER, THANKS TO A NEW PINK VODKA THAT CHANNELS THE SPIRIT OF EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE SUMMER WINE.

1 Spruce up your favourite strawberry cheesecake recipe by macerating the fruit in a couple of ounces of Svedka Rosé Vodka to make the jammy cake topper.

STOCKHOLM SPRITZ Recipe on page 137

Slurping back raw oysters is even more delicious with a spoonful of tart mignonette made with rice vinegar, finely diced shallots, cracked black pepper and a splash of pink vodka.

3 When it comes to cocktails, this pink spirit is ridiculously easy to play with. One of my favourite drinks is made by adding an ounce to a glass of sparkling wine and sprinkling a couple of drops of orange bitters overtop.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

40% LESS SUGAR AND CALORIES than Baileys Original*

NO Artificial Sweetener

Made with CREAM from Ireland

*Compared to Baileys Original Irish Cream per 74mL, 230 calories; 13 g sugar, 10 g fat PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

FLAVOURS TO SAVOUR

THE STORY OF VODKA’S NEW FLAVOURS DOESN’T END HERE. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR TWO FRESH ARRIVALS: 3 KILOS VODKA COCO GOLD (LCBO 18547, $44.95), WHICH IS A COCONUT SPIRIT, AND GREEN TEA-INFUSED GREEN OWL VODKA (LCBO 18550, $33.50).

Pickle Barrel We didn’t know how much the world needed a pickle spirit until we tried Sask Prairie Dill Pickle Vodka (LCBO 18177, $29.95), a light, restrained vodka with a hint of delicate anise. Given its layers of herbal flavours, this vodka has a distinctly Nordic feel, making it brilliant for both savoury cocktails and culinary applications.

1 Cure a fillet of salmon or Arctic char with the usual salt, pepper, sugar and dill recipe, but use Sask Prairie Dill Pickle Vodka instead of the gin or aquavit generally used to make gravlax.

2 The classic shrimp cocktail is back and, with it, seafood sauce, which can be updated with fresh horseradish, tomato sauce, lime juice and a teaspoon of dill pickle vodka.

3 PICKLED GIBSON Recipe on page 137

Dial up the brine in your Bloody Caesar with pickle vodka instead of plain. Don’t forget to add extra pickled beans—with Caesars, you might as well go big or, as they say, go home.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

taaaassstes eveeennnn beetteeerrrrr whennn you slowww dowwn and enjoyyyy it. Crisp and refreshing, NEW Wild Strawberry & Rhubarb Spiked Seltzer and NEW Peach Cider taste even better when you slow down and go #OarsUp

NOBOATSCIDER.COM

@NOBOATSONSUNDAY

@NOBOATSONSUNDAYCIDER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

80 Early Risers | 86 That’s the Spirit!

Here comes the sun! Who doesn’t feel it’s high time we moved the fun outdoors? Well, we can help you with that. Our experts share ideas for turning a patio or deck into the place you most want to be, a hospitable haven to delight friends and family with bar- and restaurant-quality drinks and snacks. And we celebrate the longedfor first local produce of the year with some inspired recipes, so you can stage alfresco dinners there too. The cold, grey months are behind us now; life is in colour again and so is our rainbow of stylish new cocktails, all tinted with nature’s own hues. Fresh colours are also aglow in the wonderful world of gin, with some exciting innovative flavours to help you get into the spirit of summer. The sunshine is with us again—and now there’s no turning back.

66 Patio Perfection | 74 Pretty, Please

Early Summer 2021

PATIO PERFECTION By Erin McLaughlin Recipes by Christopher St. Onge PHOTOGRAPHY BY james tse

The very best place to eat, drink and be merry this year is the outdoor space right at your door. Raise the bar with the latest décor touches, a Prosecco bar with plenty of sparkle and delectable hassle-free nibbles to make your own patio the ultimate “it” spot for summer. We’ve all been to that tiny outdoor bistro-pub that’s not on the map— that hidden gem that can only be discovered through word of mouth. Now imagine this is your own patio and you’re the host, chef and bartender. This summer, we’ll help you transform your outdoor space. We’ve created flavourful make-ahead recipes that can be mixed and matched depending on your mood, as well as easy batch cocktails that come together in minutes. Best of all, we’ve added décor tips and ideas to help you create an experience your guests will never forget.

Make it personal

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

What could make your party more memorable than having a personalized logo created for you—and having it appear on everything from customized Lucite stir sticks to paper coasters and ice? A custom logo may seem unnecessary, but it is that kind of detail that will elevate the quality of your event. But where to start? “A successful logo should be about storytelling,” says Lesli Ferguson, graphic designer and branding expert (lesliink.com). “Make sure anything you choose, from colours to fonts, tells a story that you can share with friends.” If creating a logo is too complex, adds Ferguson, “just use a wordmark or icon.” See Source Resource on p. 139 for where to order.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Halibut koftesi & dilled fava spread A pescatarian alternative to traditional Turkish köftesi, light and lemony fish “meatballs” are paired with a make-ahead dilled fava spread.

Recipe on page 129

Set the mood Creating a stylish space is easier than it sounds. Whether you have a large terrace or a diminutive balcony, you don’t need to buy an entire new outdoor set or hire a landscape designer—just focus on the basics. The key is mixing and matching, whether you’re using multiple colours or different décor styles.

Plants

FLORALS

candles

NAPKINS

No greenery in your backyard? No problem. Cluster potted tropical plants in an array of heights to add verdant appeal. Look for plants that will thrive outdoors all summer long, such as fiddle-leaf fig trees and dramatic elephant ear plants.

When it comes to arranging your flowers, “don’t be afraid—just go for it,” says floral designer Caitlin Bolton of Northern Blush Floral (northernblushfloral.ca) in Alliston, Ont. Bolton, who works with local Ontario flower growers to create unexpected combinations—such as mixing handdyed palm fans with delicate anemones and roses—encourages people to celebrate the unusual.

Flickering candlelight is an inexpensive way to add atmosphere to an outdoor patio. There’s no such thing as too many candles; mix and match different styles of candle holders. A simple scattering of tea lights in small jars on table surfaces also works wonders.

As tempting as it may be to use paper napkins, fabric cocktail napkins are a sustainable and elegant choice. Look for prewashed napkins in a linen and cotton blend— they can be screen-printed with a logo or any message you want, and the slightly rumpled look doesn’t require ironing.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Prosecco bar Nothing demonstrates thoughtfulness more than a Prosecco bar stocked with a range of sophisticated homemade mixers. Bright and cheerful flavours like cucumber, rhubarb and strawberry pair perfectly with sweetly versatile Prosecco. Guests can mix and match (don’t forget that strawberry is rhubarb’s favourite flavour sidekick!). Keep sparkling water on hand for guests to create mocktails as well.

TRY WITH…

Recipes on page 130

LCBO 277186, $15.95

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21 FOOD & DRINK EARLY SUMMER 2021

Martini Prosecco DOC LCBO 384651, $15.95

Astoria Prosecco LCBO 593855, $15.95

Zonin Prosecco Brut 1821 DOC

Lamb & spiced peanut sauce Fragrant flavours of cumin, allspice and smoked paprika add warmth to a simple peanut sauce, all the better served with just-off-the-grill seared lamb and thin slices of macerated cucumber.

Recipe on page 128

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

It’s in the details Investing in a few new pieces, from accessories to dining chairs, can help you curate a perfectly imperfect style.

BISTRO CHAIRS Today’s European-style metal bistro chairs easily impart sophistication to a space. The small scale and sculptural lines of Article’s Caya chair (article.com) makes it fit into any style of décor. Think of it as the little black dress of outdoor dining chairs.

String lights Outdoor spaces that have Edison-bulb string lights criss-crossed overhead have a magical quality. String lights are an inexpensive way to create ambience, but just remember that they won’t emit enough light to totally illuminate the space. Canadian Tire’s CANVAS Vintage Edison String Lights (canadiantire.ca) are rated for outdoor use.

TABLEWARE

Tropical white whisky punch Combined with the smoothness of coconut water, the flavours of passion fruit and lime are the perfect foils to unaged white whisky.

Recipe on page 128

TRY WITH… White Owl Whisky LCBO 194878, $39.95

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Think outside the box when you’re pulling together your space, and make creative choices when it comes to tableware. EQ3’s Dew Stone plates (eq3.com) are made from natural stone—no two will look alike.

THROW BLANKETS There’s something so thoughtful about having throw blankets folded neatly over the backs of chairs. On chilly nights, guests merely need to reach behind them for their ersatz wrap. Tonic Living’s Mira Throw (tonicliving.com) is a stylish, lightweight option.

Timing tips from the pros

Strawberry Pimm’s Cup

FIVE DAYS BEFORE

This classic British big-batch cocktail is reimagined with the extra sweetness of two brimming cups of sliced Ontario strawberries.

Hang your string lights to make sure they work properly. “You can put a dimmer on your Edison lights so your space doesn’t look like it’s lit up like the CNE,” says Lynne Knowlton of Knowlton & Co. (lynneknowlton.com), an outdoor microwedding venue in Durham, Ont. Look at the long-term forecast to determine whether you need a backup plan—or a rain date. “You should always have a plan B,” Knowlton advises.

Recipe on page 129

TRY WITH… Pimm’s No. 1 Cup LCBO 282277, $27.40

TWO DAYS AHEAD Put together your playlist. “Think about the mood you want ahead of time,” says Knowlton’s partner, Tristan Knowlton. “No one wants to play DJ at a party.” THE DAY OF THE PARTY If your outdoor space is lacking greenery, it’s time to put your plants outdoors—but bring them back inside at the end of the evening. “Unless you’re using hardy ferns or palms, remember that most tropical plants can’t handle cool nights,” says Caitlin Bolton of Northern Blush. NEVER FORGET THE ICE “No matter how much ice you think you need, double it” says Gord Hannah, head bartender of the Drake Hotel properties. “You never want to leave your own party for an ice run.”

Chalk it up to a great night

With just a few supplies, you can easily create a menu board for listing your “evening specials.”  One 3- x 4-foot piece of MDF  2 small paint rollers  Primer  Chalkboard paint  2 pieces of 1- x 3- x 36-inch wood, mitred at corners

 2 pieces of 1- x 3- x 48-inch wood, mitred at corners  Finishing nails  D-ring picture-hanging hardware

1 Paint 1 side of the MDF with 1 coat of primer and then apply 3 coats of chalkboard paint, ensuring each coat dries according to the instructions on the can. 2 Using 1- x 3-inch wood pieces, build a frame. Using finishing nails, attach frame to painted front of the MDF. 3 Attach 1 picture hanger to each side of the back of the frame, making sure they are level with each other.

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Summer crostini Perfect for vegetarians, a richly satisfying walnut and roasted pepper spread is topped with bright zucchini julienned tossed in a lemon chili dressing— and then layered on toasted sourdough.

Recipe on page 128

Little Gem hand salad Wedges of Little Gem lettuce topped with finely chopped egg and a herbaceous tuna dressing become whimsical “salads” meant to be eaten out of hand.

Recipe on page 130

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Pretty, please

Forget synthetic additives. These elegant cocktails come in the natural hues Mother Nature meant them to have. Pretty to look at and refreshing to sip, they are worthy additions to your must-try roster of drinks. BY MICHELLE P. E. HUNT & LAURA PANTER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY james tse | illustrations by emilie simpson

As mixologists, we are always searching for new and interesting ingredients to mix into cocktails. As it turns out, there is no better place to look than right outside our own front door. Flowers, leaves and pods are often packed with unique flavours and eye-catching colours and, combined with the right ingredients, make for winning results. Here, we’ve worked with the bounty nature has given us to build cocktails that look—and taste—incredible. They also show our appreciation for naturally sourced, better-for-you beverages that celebrate the rebirth of spring. Butterfly pea flower, chamomile SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

blossoms, hibiscus leaves and cardamom pods each lend a unique flavour to these takes on some classics, from a Sour to a Collins to a Cosmo to a simple lemonade. So get rid of those artificial ingredients, sodas and added sugars, and let nature do the work for you!

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Butterfly pea lemonade Recipe on page 138

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Chamomile cosmo Recipe on page 138

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Hibiscus collins Recipe on page 138

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Cardamom apricot sour Recipe on page 139

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

The appearance of the first fruit and vegetable crops of the year are welcome harbingers of warmer temperatures, longer days and alfresco dinners. It’s hard not to be inspired by the earthy goodness of in-season produce bursting with flavour. BY victoria walsh | PHOTOGRAPHY BY rob fiocca

EARLY New-style RHUBARB crisp Recipe on page 136 80

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

G A R L I C S C A P E & lardon carbonara Recipe on page 135

RISERS FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FRESH M A N G O - ginger crispy beef Recipe on page 134

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

FIDDLEHEAD & prosciutto pinwheels Recipe on page 136

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

Grilled RADISH & shrimp tacos Recipe on page 135

EARLY SUMMER 2021

FOOD & DRINK

BLOOM Creamy chicken galette with R A M P S & morels Recipe on page 134

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 2021

THAT’S Go ahead and mix it up. Canada’s love affair with gin reaches new heights with the coveted spirit swapping into classic cocktails and the arrival of innovative styles and flavours.

THE By Charlene Rooke | PHOTOGRAPHY BY darren kemper

SPIRIT! Gin has received an extreme makeover in recent years. First, the juniper-dominant spirit was rediscovered by a generation of modern bartenders hearkening back to the early days of cocktails, when it was an essential staple of classic drinks—from the spiritforward Martini and Negroni to the elegant French 75 and Aviation. And let’s not forget highballs like the gin and tonic, and Tom Collins. Today, gin comes in colours, flavours and styles never dreamed of by old-timey gin joint barkeeps, and from countries all over the world, far from its Dutch and British roots. With World Gin Day on June 12, there has never been a better time to be-gin experimenting.

In Spain, G&Ts come in balloon glasses, garnished with dried spices, fresh herbs and fruits.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Gin-novation Get a look (and taste) of what’s new in the world of gin, including a crop of fresh flavours and ultra- local spirits.

Heart of Gold Inspired by northern tundra, Ungava Gin (LCBO 374231, $37.95) gets its golden colour and herbaceousness from uniquely Canadian botanicals, including wild rosehip and cloudberry.

Orange Crush The intensely bittersweet oranges of southern Spain and the vintage recipes of founder Charles Tanqueray inspired lightly sweet Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla (LCBO 573956, $31.25).

Berry Nice Infused with blueberries from its home in B.C., Tempo Arandano Blueberry Gin (LCBO 18268, $37.95) has notes of creamy vanilla and a twist of citrus.

Pink or Swim Kissed with Isle of Wight rock samphire (a plant also known as “mermaid’s kiss”) and strawberry, Mermaid Pink Gin (LCBO 14755, $84.95) supports marine sustainability with plastic-free packaging.

The Unicorn

A spectrum of colours All gin is clear after distillation, but infusing it with various plant, flower and herb botanicals can give it vibrant flavours and hues.

Can’t choose a gin hue? Empress 1908 Gin (LCBO 557470, $49.95) harnesses the magical properties of butterfly pea flower, turning fuchsia with the addition of tonic or citrus juice.

Ontario grain-to-glass gin Foraging, fermenting and flavouring in our own backyards inspires spirits like spruce- and cedar-rich Hidden Temple Gin (LCBO 633206, $54.95) from Nickel 9 Distillery in Toronto’s Junction ’hood and woodsy Valley of Mother of God Gin (LCBO 13397, $59.95), which contains 20 hand-foraged botanicals. Beattie’s Farm Crafted Potato Gin (LCBO 645622, $37.95) gets its rich texture from Alliston, Ont., tubers, while Black’s Gin (LCBO 17389, $40.95) is distilled from Red Fife wheat, a variety developed in Peterborough, Ont., two centuries ago . And Niagara’s Tawse Gin (LCBO 14023, $34.95) is distilled from—you guessed it—local grapes.

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdearlysummer21

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

FLEXING FLAVOURS These spirits take the traditional juniper, citrus and botanical flavours for unexpected twists and turns. Bouquet of botanicals

Made in the English countryside, Silent Pool Gin (LCBO 18859, $57.95) is infused with rose, linden, bergamot and elderflower, among dozens of other aromatics. Citrus twist

From the U.K. company that revved up the flavoured-gin revolution, Whitley Neill Pink Grapefruit Gin (LCBO 16099, $44.95) gets juiced with Iberian pink grapefruit from Spain, plus a hint of chamomile.

Super sonic: Pair gin with soda and just a dash of tonic so the flavours shine through.

Drink P&Ps this summer: Mix 1 oz pink gin and 3 oz Prosecco in a flute or poured tall over ice.

Veggie vibes

Hendrick’s Lunar Gin (LCBO 16094, $59.95) is rich with night-blooming flower essences and warm cookie spices; it gives a G&T garnished with cucumber and ground pepper a huge citrus boost. Mouth-watering

Dubbing itself the “anti-pink gin,” Romeo’s Gin X Pink (18265, $39.95) from Quebec adds rosy watermelon to its normal mix of cucumber, dill, lavender and almond.

Global gin-eration The LCBO’s Gin Shop regularly curates unique bottlings from around the globe: Explore it at lcbo.com for new and featured offerings.

UNEXPECTED ORIGINS Gin is all over the map right now—take a spirited journey.

London Dry gin can come from anywhere—“dry” means it’s not sweetened, and classically it’s a juniper- and citrusforward style.

European vacation

Island gins

Late bloomers

Grape-distilled Cantarelle Gin de Provence (LCBO 18263, 700 mL, $54.95) is perfect for lovers of the region’s signature whiff of wild herbs and botanicals, called garrigue. For a taste of Italy, Bottega Gin Bacûr (LCBO 11278, 700 mL, $44.95) has zesty lemon and sage.

Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin (LCBO 635508, $54.40) is named for the “gunpowder” green tea in its botanical blend (plus, overproof “navy-strength” gin was originally tested with real gunpowder!). Scapegrace Classic New Zealand Premium Dry Gin (LCBO 18387, $49.95) scoops global awards for its crisp flavours, enhanced by the glacial water it’s made with.

Globe-trotting Akori Cherry Blossom Gin (LCBO 18269, 700 mL, $56.95) is born in Spain but made from distilled rice spirit and inspired by Japan. Roku Gin (LCBO 636209, $49.95) has Japanese sakura, yuzu, green tea and sansho pepper botanicals.

Gin-spiration from the whisky world Think of Scottish spirits, and whisky comes to mind. But Scotland is a gin powerhouse.

Organic gardening The base spirit and all the botanical flavourings in Generous Gin Organic (LCBO 18271, 700 mL, $65.95) from France—traditional juniper, lemon and coriander, plus red pepper, mandarin orange and combava—are organic.

Sustainable sip Montreal upcycling company Loop Mission has partnered with Quebec’s Distillerie Mariana and snack-food company Yum Yum to make potato-distilled Loop Lime and Ginger Gin (LCBO 18420, $38.95).

Hand-foraged botanical The Botanist Islay Dry Gin (LCBO 358192, $52.95) comes from famous single malt Scotch distillery Bruichladdich. Hendrick’s Gin (LCBO 637504, $52.95) hails from the lowland region’s Girvan distillery, which also makes whisky that goes into blended Scotches. Kelp-infused Isle of Harris Gin (LCBO 16100, $89) from Scotland’s Outer Hebrides is a hop away from Skye, the island home of Talisker single malt; and Seven Crofts Handcrafted Dry Gin (LCBO 18706, 700 mL, $59.95) comes from a town in the distillery-dense Highlands. Watch the Gin Shop at lcbo.com for seasonal releases like Nikka Coffey Gin (LCBO 14726, 700 mL, $68.65) from Japan’s famous whisky brand.

Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdearlysummer21

Use a gin-tasting wheel (try vinepair.com or ginfoundry.com) to help identify flavours.

All flavour, no alcohol Use these local zero-alcohol bottlings in mixed drinks as you would any gin. Sobrii 0-Gin (sobrii.ca) is traditionally made at a Stratford, Ont., small-batch distillery and then de-alcoholized. Along with classic gin and other spirits, Ontario’s H2 Craft Spirits (h2craftspirits.com) makes three varieties of Spiritliss nonalcoholic gin: Taste it in their Spiritliss Hibiscus Non-Alcoholic Gin & Tonic (LCBO 17435, 355 mL, $3.50).

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

In the mix Drinks incorporating gin are some of the most famous and beloved in the cocktail canon. But why stop there? Gin is surprisingly versatile.

The toast of London Sipsmith London Dry Gin (LCBO 391177, $45) is the rare gin that’s actually made in London: It became the first new distillery to open there in 200-plus years when it debuted in 2013. Style: Bright citrus and mellow juniper nose, plus meadowy floral notes. Use in: A G&T, Vesper, highball—it’s eminently versatile.

Plymouth rocks Made at Black Friars, England’s oldest working gin distillery, Plymouth English Gin (LCBO 277004, $45.50) comes from the place Cape Cod’s Plymouth Rock was named for, when the Mayflower landed there in 1620. Style: Round and smooth. Use in: Martinis and citrusy gin cocktails, like the French 75.

Get the vapours Bombay Sapphire London Dry Gin’s (LCBO 316844, $30.95) botanicals are vapour-infused for subtle and elegant aromatics. The English distillery is accredited by global authority BREEAM for its sustainable design and practices. Style: Delicately flavoured, with light juniper. Use in: A Negroni, where its botanicals won’t dominate.

Riff on the classics If you like Moscow Mules, climb onto a Gin Mule made with Whitley Neill Rhubarb & Ginger (LCBO 11868, $44.80) and ginger ale. Make an Old Fashioned into a Gin Refashioned by using barrelaged Willibald Farm Distillery Gin (LCBO 540302, $45.95) from Ayr, Ont. Craft a pretty, exotic Daiquiri using Collective Arts Rhubarb & Hibiscus Gin (LCBO 113456, $48.75) in place of rum, or a Red Snapper, which is a Bloody Mary with gin in place of vodka. Reinvent the Mar-Gin-Rita using a bold citrus gin, like Tanqueray Rangpur (LCBO 358184, $33.45).

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Fun fact: Bitter tonic water was created as medicine containing quinine (to fight malaria in tropical regions) that went down smoother with gin.

THE SPECIALISTS If you’re a fanatic for a particular cocktail, use the ultimate gin for that drink.

Give Martinis exquisite aromatics with shiso or yuzu essences from The Japanese Bitters (available at cocktail emporium.com).

The aviator

It’s no surprise that the Portland, Ore.-based founders of Aviation Gin (LCBO 129940, $39.95) created the light juniper spirit (often dubbed a New Western Dry-style gin) specifically to shine in the Aviation cocktail. While violetinfused liqueur traditionally adds light aromatics and a celestial tint, the drink is equally lovely without it. Martini magic

Using a slightly overproof spirit such as Boodles Gin (LCBO 397539, $29.95), which is 45.2 percent alcohol by volume (instead of the typical 40 percent), means a shaken or stirred Martini is still vibrantly flavourful after it’s properly diluted. Cup runneth over

The gin-based aperitif Pimm’s No. 1 Cup (LCBO 282277, $27.40) is so famous it spawned its own cocktail, the Pimm’s Cup: Find the recipe on the back label. Find recipes for gin cocktails at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21.

100% NATU RAL FL AVOU RS

ZERO SUGAR

83 KCAL SERVE *

NEW

REFRESHINGLY BAL ANCED TASTE *SERVING OF 50 ML BEEFEATER® BOTANICS AND 150 ML LIGHT TONIC.

ORIGINS

cocktails 101

Canadian classic How did the Caesar cocktail become a Canadian icon? Its humble beginnings may surprise you, as will modern twists on the classic, sure to boost its legendary status. By Jessica Huras photography by rob fiocca

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

In 1969, bartender Walter Chell of the Calgary Inn (now the Westin Calgary) was tasked with developing a cocktail to commemorate the opening of the inn’s new Italian restaurant. Chell used his favourite Italian dish, spaghetti alle vongole, as the inspiration for a cocktail that featured savoury clam and tomato flavours. Although cocktails made with vodka, tomato juice and clam juice had been documented as far back as the 1950s, Chell’s concoction, dubbed the Caesar, was the first to gain widespread popularity. The drink’s success was thanks in part to the DuffyMott Company, which released its now well-known tomato and clam juice cocktail, Mott’s Clamato, shortly after Chell created the Caesar. Easy access to the Caesar’s key ingredient allowed restaurants and home bartenders across the country to recreate the much-loved drink, cementing its place in Canadian cocktail culture. It’s a beloved accompaniment to hearty weekend brunches and annual Canada Day celebrations (its red colour is even a fitting match for our flag), but Canadians enjoy Caesars just about any time. It’s estimated that we drink more than 400 million Caesars each year. In spite of its success, the Caesar remains a uniquely Canadian drink that’s not widely known outside the Great White North.

CANADIAN CLASSIC The Caesar was officially recognized as Canada’s national cocktail by Parliament in 2009. National Caesar Day is celebrated on the Thursday before Victoria Day.

The Caesar: A basic recipe Lime wedge for rimming glass Rim spice of choice Ice cubes 1 1/2 oz vodka 1/2 oz lime juice (about 1/2 a lime) 3 dashes Worcestershire sauce 2 dashes hot sauce 1 pinch each salt and freshly ground pepper 4 oz clam‑tomato juice or Caesar mix Garnishes of choice

The clam-tomato juice mixture is the key difference between a Caesar and a Bloody Mary, another popular brunch cocktail made with plain tomato juice.

Wet rim of a tall glass with lime wedge and then coat with your spice of choice. Add ice to glass. Add vodka, lime juice, Worcestershire and hot sauces, salt and pepper. Top with mix and stir briefly. Finish with pickled veggies, bacon strip, jumbo prawns or other creative skewers and garnishes. Makes 1 drink

Can do! Whether you’re seeking a no-fuss drink pairing for brunch or a convenient can to pack for a cottage trip, these new ready-todrink Caesars deliver the cocktail’s signature spicy flavour with no mixing required.

Walter Craft Caesar classic LCBO 19103, 473 mL, $3.75

From the brand known for its smallbatch Caesar mix, this sippable can delivers well-balanced, classic flavour.

Matt & Steve’s Caesar Hot & Spicy

Mott’s Clamato Caesar Sriracha

LCBO 19096, 473 mL, $3.25

A bold blend of seven spices makes this can a perfect option for those who like a Caesar with a punch.

A shot of Extreme Bean brine gives this can a boost of tart tang, while a pinch of cayenne adds a spicy kick.

LCBO 19097, 458 mL, $2.95

Life Raft Caesar LCBO 19154, 355 mL, $2.75

With low sodium and a triple-distilled vodka base, this can is a better-for-you choice that doesn’t compromise on big flavour.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Feed Your Ravenous Soul

A heretic is someone who thinks differently from the crowd. They explore. They experience. They create. That essence permeates every last drop of our award-winning Gin #1 and Vodka #1. Try Heretic Spirits today and please enjoy responsibly!

Discover us at hereticspirits.com and at your local LCBO. Crafted in Collingwood!

CANADIAN CLASSIC

Which vodka to use? Although vodka is a subtle part of a Caesar’s flavour, experimenting with different types allows you to create nuanced variations in your drink’s taste profile. Absolut Lime Vodka LCBO 493999, $29.25

Bring out the Caesar’s citrusy notes with this lime-flavoured vodka. Chopin Potato Vodka LCBO 521963, $50.70

Potato-based vodkas have a fuller body than their wheat-based counterparts, helping them to stand out more prominently from the Caesar’s other strong flavours. Tito’s Handmade Vodka LCBO 597559, $34.95

With a smooth finish and hints of citrus, Tito’s is an affordable go-to for those who enjoy a classic Caesar taste profile. Dillon’s Vodka LCBO 638130, $35.95

This Canadian-made vodka’s notes of white pepper and spice will enhance your Caesar’s savoury flavours.

Mix it up! One of the many reasons Canadians love the Caesar is its versatility. You can tweak almost every element of the basic recipe, right down to the spirit base.

gin

beer

The botanical flavours of gin can add pleasant layers of complexity to your Caesar. Opt for a citrus-forward gin like Romeo’s (LCBO 635466, $39.95) or Tanqueray (LCBO 2691, $30.45) to bring a zesty, refreshing element to your drink. Take a cue from the Red Snapper, a cocktail cousin of the Caesar, and add a little lemon juice to further enhance the citrus notes.

Use beer to play with a Caesar’s similarity to a Michelada, a Mexican drink made with lime, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and, often, tomato juice. A pilsner or lager, such as Mexican Corona Extra (LCBO 191874, 473 mL, $3.20), works best. You’ll want to use about twice as much beer as you would a spirit base like vodka.

tequila Tequila is a good option if you like your Caesar to have big, bold flavour. Try a blanco tequila like Espolòn Tequila Blanco (LCBO 324848, $40.95). It intensifies the Caesar’s spicy, vegetal notes with its complementary flavours, while also adding a smoky depth to your cocktail.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Gin from Italy

Made with Sicilian Pink Grapefruit

CANADIAN CLASSIC

Tajin: a Mexican seasoning made with chili powder, salt and dehydrated lime

How to rim your glass Pour some rim spice onto a plate or into a shallow bowl. Moisten your glass’s rim by sliding a wedge of lime around its full circumference. Dip the rim into the pile of spice, pressing down as if the glass rim has ink on it and you’re trying to stamp a circle into the spice. You can also lightly twist the glass to pick up more spice. Play with different spice rims for variety.

Classic: celery salt mixed with freshly ground black pepper

Montreal steak spice: a blend that usually includes garlic, coriander, black pepper, cayenne pepper flakes, dill seed and salt

Get garnishing Caesars are known for their anything-goes garnishes, with restaurants across Canada finishing their cocktails with accoutrements from cheeseburgers to whole lobster tails. The possibilities are endless, but here are a few ideas to get you started. (Hint: You can also combine all three!)

Anything pickled There’s something magical about pairing the salty flavours of pickled veggies with a Caesar’s rich clam-tomato base. Try finishing your drink with pickled onions, green beans, asparagus, peppers or anything else that will add that briny kick.

100

Jumbo prawns Shrimp cocktail is a popular appetizer for good reason. The same combination of freshness and acidity that makes shrimp go beautifully with a tomato-based cocktail sauce also makes jumbo prawns a natural match for the clam-tomato juice in a Caesar.

Bacon Pair the beloved brunch cocktail with foods you might find on your morning plate, such as bacon—peameal, candied or crispy strips all work well—or play up the breakfast theme further by adding a boiled egg skewer.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

THE GIN

CRAFTED WITH

ARCTIC

BOTANICALS

THE ARCTIC

AS WILD AS

$17 solution. Great-value wines. THIS IS VINTAGES

This wine is loaded with Lodi freshness and aromatics, with concentrated dark fruit and spice. It exemplifies California’s reputation for quality Cabernet. Enjoy it with grilled beef ribs. NOBLE VINES 337 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 Lodi, California 483321 (D) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Firm 90 points (Wine Enthusiast)

A stylish Tempranillo-based blend that reflects classic Rioja energy and elegance. It shows ripe dark berry, spice and a plush mouthfeel. Perfect for smoky barbecued fare. HACIENDA LÓPEZ DE HARO CRIANZA 2017 DOCa Rioja, Spain 377481 (D) 750 mL $17.00 2 Medium-bodied & Fruity 90 points (Wine Enthusiast)

Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

34574

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE MAY 1, 2021.

FLAVOURS

KOREAN-STYLE GRILLED CHEESE LOBSTER Recipe on page 127

The claws of North Atlantic lobster differ in size for good reason—the smaller “pincher” is used to tear the flesh of prey while the larger, more powerful “crusher claw” is rather self-explanatory.

All surf, no turf From B.C. spot prawns to the first east coast lobsters of the year, Canadian seafood is now in season and at the peak of deliciousness. By Alison Kent | Photography by rob fiocca

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Whether it’s the Atlantic or the Pacific, our oceans are, well, an ocean away from us Ontarians, and until recently, some shellfish was perceived as a rarity on the dinner table here. Lucky for us, the freshest seafood is now more readily available through speedy and efficient distribution channels than ever before. Here are four preparations for Canada’s finest offerings from the sea.

103

ALL SURF, NO TURF

GREEK-STYLE SPOT PRAWN COCKTAIL Wild-caught Pacific spot prawns step in for the usual shrimp in this very special twist on shrimp cocktail that’s sure to make a big impact at the table. Tirokafteri is a Greek feta dip that’s rich, creamy and fiery. Here, the heat is dialled back a bit by using relatively mild, tangy pickled pepperoncini peppers to balance the delicate, sweettasting prawns. Serve as an appetizer or mezze with toasted pita or sliced baguette. 8 oz (225 g) Greek feta, chopped or coarsely crumbled 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp (30 mL) drained, stemmed and chopped pickled pepperoncini (about 3) 4 tsp (20 mL) red wine vinegar 1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 lb (455 g) shell-on spot prawn tails 2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed baby arugula or arugula microgreens 2 tbsp (30 mL) drained capers 1 lemon

1 In a food processor, blend feta, garlic, pepperoncini, vinegar and pepper. With motor running, pour in olive oil, blending until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 3 days. 2 In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook prawns until bright pink and tails curl, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and transfer prawns to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Let stand for 5 minutes. Drain well; peel prawns, keeping shell on tips of tails, if desired. If not serving immediately, cover and refrigerate prawns for up to 1 day.

104

Spot prawns are one of the most anticipated seasonal foods in B.C. They are available live during harvest season starting in May and for a relatively brief six to eight weeks. Thankfully, they can also be found frozen year-round.

3 To serve, divide feta dip among plates, using back of spoon to spread to a thin round. Top with prawns; sprinkle with arugula and capers. Freshly grate some lemon zest on top, then cut lemon into wedges to serve on the side for squeezing.

WHAT TO SERVE Albariño is a classic pairing for seafood. This wine’s fruit will balance the dish’s sharpness, while the crisp acidity cuts the richness of the feta dip. Paco & Lola Albariño VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 350041,

Serves 6

$20.95

For the health of our oceans’ fish and seafood populations, seek out a responsible fishmonger or seafood purveyor, and choose Ocean Wise-approved and Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)-certified whenever possible to ensure sustainable seafood and fish is available for many years to come. Visit seafood.ocean.org and msc.org to learn more.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

An estate-grown wine has its own special

All of our McManis wines are estate grown

character. It’s a true statement about the way

in several preferred appellations, allowing each

the vines transform soil, water, and sunlight

varietal its full expression. Raise a glass, and find out exactly where we’re coming from.

into something uniquely of that place.

Authentic. E S T AT E G R O W N

•

A P P E L L AT I O N S P E C I F I C

A Vintages “Essential” always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

FA M I LY V I N E YA R D S

ALL SURF, NO TURF In Eastern Canada’s Atlantic waters, cultured mussels are suspended from raft lines and grown and harvested using aquatic farming methods. Never touching the ocean bottom means next to zero opportunity for picking up any unwanted grit or sand.

BEER & BACON MUSSELS WITH TOASTED GARLIC CRUMBS Crunchy, garlicky bread crumbs are a complementary texture contrast to these plump steamed mussels. Serve by the bowlful with a side of crispy fries and grainy mustard-mayo for a spin on moules frites or a simple salad with lemony vinaigrette. 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 3⁄4 cup (175 mL) fresh bread crumbs (see TIP) 1 clove garlic, minced 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped fresh parsley 3 lbs (1.36 kg) mussels 6 thick slices bacon (or 8 regular slices), thinly sliced 1 large leek (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced

106

1 can (473 mL) beer, such as pale ale or lager Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 plum tomatoes, chopped

3 Cook bacon in a large heavybottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, until just about crisp. Stir in leek; cook until softened, about 3 minutes.

1 Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat; add bread crumbs and cook, stirring, until slightly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in garlic; continue cooking until bread crumbs are toasted and golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Stir in parsley. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

4 Add beer; season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add mussels and tomatoes; cover tightly and steam, shaking pot once or twice, until mussels open, 4 to 6 minutes.

2 Rinse and scrub mussels in cold water, pulling oﬀ any beards (those stringy bits protruding from shells), if need be. Discard any mussels that do not close when tapped.

5 Spoon mussels and cooking juices into serving bowl(s), discarding any unopened mussels. Sprinkle with bread crumbs. Serves 4

TIP To make fresh bread crumbs, tear up day-old bread and whirl in a food processor until in coarse crumbs. Freeze any extras, or make a double batch of toasted crumbs and sprinkle on pasta dishes, soups and casseroles.

WHAT TO SERVE This English ale’s malty sweetness will tone down the dish’s salty, garlicky and peppery elements. Its carbonation and hoppy notes cleanse the palate. Great Lakes Pompous Ass English Ale LCBO 408054, 473 mL, $2.75

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

1 e2

e v Sa

M ay 24 –

Please enjoy responsibly

C BO eL

At th

Savour the summer we’ve all been waiting for.

ALL SURF, NO TURF

CITRUS BUTTER CRAB WITH RICOTTA GNUDI

With its distinctive rich, sweet flavour, red king crab is the most prized of the king crab species.

Wild-caught king crab from northern Pacific waters and Dungeness crab are both good options in this recipe. When purchasing frozen king crab in the shell, 1 1⁄4 lbs (565 g) should yield around 12 oz (340 g) meat. Gnudi differs from gnocchi in that it is made with ricotta cheese rather than potato. Ricotta lends a sweeter note, while the texture is a tad more tender and “pillowy.” Gnudi is quicker to pull together and takes less effort, too.

GNUDI 2 large eggs 1 tub (475 g) whole-milk ricotta 1⁄3 cup (80 mL) grated Parmesan, plus more to taste 1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) ground nutmeg 1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) salt, plus more to taste 1 1⁄4 cups (310 mL) all-purpose ﬂour, plus more for rolling and cutting 1⁄3 cup (80 mL) unsalted butter 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) dry vermouth (or reserved gnudi cooking liquid) 2 tsp (10 mL) orange zest 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) fresh orange juice 4 tsp (20 mL) fresh lemon juice 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) lightly crushed fennel seed 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) hot pepper ﬂakes (optional) 12 oz (340 g) thawed shelled jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over for shell bits 4 cups (1 L) lightly packed spinach leaves Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 In a large bowl, beat eggs; stir in ricotta, Parmesan, nutmeg and salt until smooth. Stir in ﬂour just until combined. Turn dough

108

out onto lightly floured surface and divide into quarters. With floured hands, roll into ropes about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces to make about 100 total, tossing with additional flour as needed to keep gnudi from sticking. Roll into balls or, to make sauce-hugging grooves, gently press each piece over the back of flour-dusted fork tines while rolling slightly. Place gnudi on a floured tray and be ready to cook them right away. See TIP. 2 In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook half the gnudi until tender but firm and floating, 3 to 5 minutes. Use slotted spoon to transfer gnudi to lightly oiled tray. Repeat to cook remaining gnudi. Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) cooking water.

and sprinkle with more Parmesan, if desired. Serves 6 3 Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it starts to foam, 3 to 4 minutes. Add shallots and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) reserved cooking liquid, vermouth, orange zest and juice, lemon juice, fennel seed and hot pepper ﬂakes, if using. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Add gnudi, stirring to coat. Cook until a lightly thickened sauce forms, adding a bit more cooking water if needed until loose and creamy, 1 to 2 minutes. 4 Stir in crab and spinach; cook until crab is warmed through and spinach is just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon into pasta bowls

TIP Cooked gnudi can be cooled, tossed in a touch of oil and refrigerated, covered, up to 2 days in advance. Or freeze on a wax paper-lined tray before transferring to a resealable bag. To reheat, boil for 1 minute (2 minutes for frozen) before draining and tossing with sauce.

WHAT TO SERVE Prosecco’s eﬀervescence will slice through the dish’s creaminess. Its tropical fruit tones soften the assertive Parmesan ﬂavours and spice. Santa Margherita Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 687582, $19.95

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

DISTILLED AND AGED IN THE HEART OF JAMAICA CR A F T E D W I T H J O Y

SEASONAL

Tops in hops This summer’s slate of innovative new beers provides plenty of ways to shake up your usual roster of go-to brews. Pair with a spicy and savoury dish, like Jerk Chicken Pizza with Pineapple Salsa (recipe at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21).

By Lisa Jackson photography by vince noguchi

Trends on tap

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

From innovative IPAs to hoppy ales to Old World styles, beer sommeliers Lexi Pham and Ren Navarro share insights into the beer world this summer. For experts Navarro and Pham, the pint glass is half full. Despite the past year’s challenges, both are enthused about what’s on tap this summer, starting with some daring new tastes. “The IPAs are bolder,” says Navarro. “Experimental hops are giving bigger, punchier flavours— grapefruit and citrus—but like they’re on steroids.” Old-style ales—grisette, lambic, gose, Weisse and others—are also making a comeback. Many consumers are gravitating to lower alcohol percentages and smaller can sizes. “I see low-ABV [alcohol by volume], low-cal and low-carb beers being the summer trend,” says Pham. “Breweries are starting to make 355-millilitre cans, and that size will be popular.” It’s just the tip of the iceberg, with more styles to explore this summer. “2021 is the year we’re turning to beer for liquid joy,” says Navarro.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Hot hybrids New combinations—like fruit-infused ales, hop water and spiked seltzers—are trending, perfect for cutting the heat on sweltering summer days. Expect an uptick in wine-beers too. “A lot of breweries are popping up near wineries and working together,” says Pham.

The Exchange Twig & Berries Botanical Ale LCBO 19724, 330 mL, $5.95

Aged in gin barrels, this sour ale has a light, fruity flavour with notes of juniper berry and citrus peel.

111

TOPS IN HOPS

What we’re drinking this summer Craft brewers are playing with unique styles and ingredients, leading to exciting taste twists. Add these new beers to your tasting flight.

Craft lager

Hop City El LIMERO Ginger Lime Lager LCBO 20138, 473 mL, $3.20

Zesty lime meets fresh ginger in this light lager that uses Citra hops. Innovative IPA

Collective Arts Good Monster DIPA LCBO 20118, 473 mL, $4.25

A classic dating back to 1844, this saison goes great with mussels, asparagus or grilled Mediterranean chicken skewers (recipe at lcbo.com/fdearlysummer21).

Expect notes of tropical mango, passion fruit, juicy peach and citrus fruits in this New England-style double dry-hopped ale. Low-carb/low-calorie

Sleeman Clear 2.0 Peach LCBO 20091, 473 mL, $2.75

A golden light beer with fruity, herbal tones and aromas of peach, citrus, sweet malt, and delicate hops. Best served ice-cold.

Resurrecting old-style ales There’s a lot to love about old-world ales— lambic, Weisse, gose, saison and other styles that were invented before modern brewing equipment. For Kevin Freer, head brewer at Block Three Brewing in St. Jacobs, Ont., the adventurous flavours make these ancient ales so special. Bored with “cranking out IPA,” he says he’s been experimenting with the “golden oldies” at the brewery. “Most continental European classic styles are fairly dry and effervescent,” says Freer. “Some can have an acidic component, while others are sweeter, with more yeast characteristics.” Historically, brewing techniques varied across time and place, gifting each style with “little quirks,” he says. Some German brewers used decoction mashing—removing a portion

Gose

Saison

Kellerbier

Henderson’s Radicle Salted Lime Gose

Saison Dupont

Hacker-Pschorr Kellerbier

LCBO 19607, 473 mL, $3.85

A classic European style, it was first brewed in Germany. Expect a bright, tart flavour with notes of floral coriander and fresh lime zest.

112

of the mash, boiling it and returning it to the mix—whereas lambic brewers often used a turbid mashing method—a labour-intensive process that takes the mash through multiple temperature rests—to produce a cloudy, starchy wort (the liquid extracted from the mashing process). “It’s the brewers’ ingenuity at the time to work with what they had that gave rise to these styles and their differences,” says Freer. Freer uses a mixture of German and North American malts to create Hollinger Helles (LCBO 16539, 473 mL, $3.50)—a floral, hay-like lager inspired by the classic south German beers you might find at Oktoberfest. PS: Freer says it “goes great with shareable snacks like nachos.”

LCBO 551697, 330 mL, $2.95

A dry, bitter copperblonde beer, it has aromas of fine hops.

LCBO 16936, 500 mL, $2.50

A zesty, fruity Bavarian lager with notes of caramel, honey and plum that add a subtle sweetness. Great for an ice cream beer float.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

TOPS IN HOPS

What is a sour? Tart and often fruity, the sour style (one of the oldest beers in history) is going gangbusters. Today’s sours are primarily fermented with wild bacteria and yeast, which blesses the brew with lively, complex flavours ranging from mouth-puckeringly bitter to leathery and spicy to light and fruity to barnyard funky.

Sweet on sours Sour beer is typically lower in alcohol, and the acidic earthiness pairs perfectly with all sorts of flavours and dishes, making it a refreshing choice for hot days.

Prince Eddy’s Brewing Co. Chiller Instinct Dry Hopped Sour + Black River Cheese 5-Year Aged Cheddar

Side Launch aloha Sour + Copperpot Nuts Beer Nut Collection Tray

Crack the can (LCBO 19507, 473 mL, $4) and inhale a lovely scent of lemon, rose and fresh-cut grass. Lightly soured and dry hopped, it offers zingy, tart flavours with citrusy, fruity and pleasant hop undertones. Pair with a tangy cheese from Prince Edward County, like Black River 5-Year Aged Cheddar (blackrivercheese.com).

This sour (LCBO 20864, 473 mL, $3.95) surprises with an intense tart punch followed by a smooth vanilla and almond finish, with hints of clove and cinnamon. Enjoy with savoury pecans, almonds, peanuts and hazelnuts from a Copperpot Nuts Beer Nut Collection Tray (copperpotnuts.com).

Cowbell Brewing co. Sea Salt Grapefruit Sour + Thornloe Charlton Goat Cheese A bright, citrusy wheat ale (LCBO 19616, 473 mL, $3.85), it’s brewed with grapefruit juice and zest, ground coriander and Canadian sea salt. Enjoy with creamy medium- bodied goat cheese like Thornloe Charlton (thornloecheese.ca).

114

Bench Brewing Berry Fields Sour Ale + Little VG’s Mild Pepperettes Ruby red in colour, this sour ale (LCBO 19677, 473 mL, $3.65) sucker-punches with fruity flavours and aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, strawberry and other red fruits. Great with Little VG’s Mild Pepperettes. (vgfarmtocity.ca).

How to drink sours The angular body of a Teku glass captures aromas and facilitates swirling, while the long stem prevents your hands from warming the beer. Liquid rolls off the thin, outwardcurving lip, making for easy drinking. Shop the Issue at lcbo.com/ fdearlysummer21

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

PINK GIN & SODA WITH RASPBERRY & BITTER ORANGE

REAL INGREDIENTS. MIXOLOGIST INSPIRED.

Collective Arts fuses the creativity of craft beverages with the inspired talents of artists from around the world. We feature limited-edition works of art on our cans and bottles, and we work to make sure the liquid on the inside is as diverse and creative as the artists we profile.

#artplusdistilling

Scan the code to find

@collectivebrew

at an LCBO near you.

collectiveartsbrewing.com

LCBO #19114

TOPS IN HOPS

Ontario cottagecountry beers From the Kawarthas to Lake of the Woods, Ontario’s cottage country regions are sprouting microbreweries, fuelled by a growing appetite for craft beer. There’s even a Cottage Country Beer Trail across Haliburton, Muskoka, Parry Sound and Hastings Highlands. “Our brewery has grown substantially in 25 years,” says Todd Lewin, president of Muskoka Brewery, “from an 8,000-squarefoot facility in downtown Bracebridge to our current 80,000-square-foot facility.” Every sip offers an escape to cottage country, and part of the fun is decoding products’ branding references to local landmarks and heritage. Homegrown ingredients, like honey, fruit and wood, make cameos in some brews. Quirky witticisms often appear on labels, such as the Manitoulin Brewing Company’s Haw Eaters’ Brew (LCBO 10896, 355 mL, $2.70)—based on a nickname for people born on Manitoulin Island.

Dock beers These lively libations will be a hit at the cottage this summer.

Session

Blonde

Sour

Clear Lake Brewing co. Session Ale

Muskoka Chance of Flowers dry hopped kolsch with Hibiscus

Trestle Brewing Company No Service Series Mango Dry Hopped Sour

LCBO 19019, 473 mL, $3.95

LCBO 19718, 473 mL, $3.50

This hot pink drink starts with a sour sucker punch, followed by a flowery finale. Expect a touch of crisp bitterness.

Light, fruity and flavourpacked, this sour brings a bone-dry mouth feel with a tart taste and aromas of mango.

LCBO 573832, 473 mL, $2.95

This golden ale is lower in alcohol and strikes a balance in its malt and hop flavours, finishing clean.

For easy weekend packing, mix in these brews to make your own assorted six-pack of cottage-style beers.

Sawdust City Binary System IIPA LCBO 19758, 473 mL, $4.75

Cottage-style hoppy hour

Boshkung Brewing Co. Life Session Lager

Manitoulin Brewing Company Ten Mile Point Pilsner

LCBO 19498, 473 mL, $2.95

LCBO 19727, 473 mL, $3.10

Great with grilled vegetables.

Add these two new IPAs, fresh from the Cottage Country Beer Trail, to your “must-try” list.

Sawdust City Gnarnia Lil’ IPA LCBO 19262, 473 mL, $3.95

Built upon the simple malt body of a Hazy IPA, it’s then dry-hopped with tons of Mosaic and Citra hops, creating big flavours of juicy citrus and tropical fruit.

116

Lake of Bays Don’t Look Down Double IPA LCBO 19503, 473 mL, $4.00

Packed with sweet berry goodness, this smooth and soft ale finishes with subtle earthy, hoppy notes.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

YOUR ORDINARY JUST NEEDS A LITTLE ‘EXTRA.’ ARTFULLY CRAFTED

* MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

TOPS IN HOPS

Radler roundup

Barbecuing + beer go together

Fizzy and light, these refreshing radlers will cut the heat on a sizzling summer day.

Mill Street Kombucha Radler Dragon Fruit & Lime LCBO 20664, 473 mL, $3.65

Tinted pink from the organic dragon fruit, expect fruity, sweet hay, and citrus aromas with a tart twist from the lime and kombucha. Available late May.

Lost Craft Fresh Cucumber Mint Radler LCBO 20228, 473 mL, $3.35

A refreshing summer patio sipper, it’s made with allnatural flavours, blending a lager with cucumber- mint seltzer. Sugar-free and low-calorie!

Stiegl Raspberry Radler LCBO 20889, 500 mL, $3.25

A blend of Stiegl Goldbräu and Raspberry Fruit Soda creates this lively, bright pink beer. Delightfully sweet and bubbly, it’s a thirstquencher to pack in the cooler for a hot day. Available in June.

Named among North America’s top 10 barbecue experts, Maddie and Kiki have fed thousands of hungry fans across Canada and spread “barbecue cheer” on stage, television and their YouTube channel. Here’s why these grilling gurus love beer as a barbecuing ingredient. Boosts taste: “Beer adds depth of flavour to barbecue sauces. Used in brines and marinades, it helps break down the meat fibres, making it tender and flavourful.” Moistens: “Beer can help keep low-and-slowcooking meats juicy while adding flavour as a mop or spritz.” Balances: “It contributes to the perfectly balanced umami flavour of sweet, salty, sour and bitter.” Perfect for plant-based grilling: “We love marinating tofu and tempeh overnight in a rich, dark stout.”

Cook’s best friend beers Up your grilling game with Maddie and Kiki’s favourite beer and barbecue combos.

Steaming seafood Belgian Moon Honey Daze + grilled mussels “The toasted grain and sweet hops bring out the sweetness of the mussels and make a flavourful broth to dunk crusty bread in.” LCBO 19886, 473 mL, $2.90

118

Making sauces

Braising liquid

Perth Brewery O’Canada Maple Ale + smoked brisket

Mill Street Original Organic Lager + braised rabbit over charcoal

“The maple flavour and the beefiness of smoked brisket make an unforgettable taste combination.” LCBO 19643, 473 mL, $3.15

“For braised rabbit, beer brings out the flavours after being touched with a hint of charcoal smoke.” LCBO 247627, 473 mL, $3.35

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

NEW

THE FIRST HARD SELTZER WITH

SUPERFRUIT L

R 4 3 m 7

ACEROLA CHERRY. AVAILABLE AT LCBO APRIL 2021

OR I E AL

RB CA S

130 PER

3 mL

34585

Shop our Wine Discovery Boxes

Our experts have mixed and matched some of their favourite wines in our Wine Discovery Boxes. Available online only, these curated collections make it easy to sample a variety of exceptional wines – and they make great gifts too. Shop lcbo.com/discoveryboxes

TWISTS

Milk Bread Recipe on page 130

Nakamura Bakery 3160 STEELES AVE. E. #9, MARKHAM, ONT. BAKERYNAKAMURA.COM

The sky is the limit: Try sandwiching milk bread with creamy scrambled eggs or using strong cheddar for grilled cheese toast.

NAKAMURA BAKERY IMAGE BY DARREN KEMPER

Slice of life For some Canadians, the humble sandwich is a meaningful—and tasty—expression of culture and family traditions. By Suresh Doss | photography by vince noguchi

If we had to pick one great summer dish, it might be the universal sandwich. Whether you’re creating a quick meal with ingredients from the pantry or looking for fresh inspiration for that epic picnic spread, here are three great ways to change up your summer sandwich game.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Nakamura is the Greater Toronto Area’s ﬁrst bakery solely focused on Japanese breads and pastry. The family-run operation opened in 1993 in the J-Town complex, a network of buildings dedicated to Japanese-focused retail. Long before milk bread became trendy, Nakamura garnered a loyal following for its breads and buns (they sell out daily), which the owners say are great as a treat on their own or with a generous slathering of fruit jam. The bakery’s milk buns also freeze very well if you’re looking to stock up. While you’re here, Nakamura is also known for its freshly baked French butter cakes, known as madeleines. Try the lemon- or matcha-ﬂavoured ones.

What is milk bread? This soft, feathery type of bread has become a recent sensation with chefs across Ontario, who are inspired by versions found in Chinese and Japanese cooking. Made by incorporating a slurry of ﬂour and milk, the bread has a unique pillowy texture with a slight hint of creaminess.

121

SLICE OF LIFE Tostones have become popular for their versatility: Try them open-faced with a variety of toppings, or tucked together to create a sandwich bun for meat or vegetarian fillings.

What is a tostone? Celebrated with national pride in Caribbean and Latin American nations, tostones are plantains cut into thin discs and fried twice. While the history of the tostone is often disputed, the round fritters are instantly recognizable throughout Central and South America. They’re served in a variety of ways: as a snack alongside dips or with rice and beans. Restaurants have recently started featuring them as sandwiches, using the gluten-free fried plantain as a bun. The crunchy surface and almost potato-like centre give a nice contrast to saucy sandwiches.

TOSTONES Tostones are incredibly easy to make and require few ingredients. The key is to source good plantains, according to Anna Canzona, owner of Atomic10. Plantains come in a variety of colours— yellow ones and those that have dark spots tend to be sweeter. Look for green plantains, which have a very starchy potato-like texture, as these are best for making tostones. In addition to sandwiches, tostones are also great on their own with a pinch of salt or served with mojo sauce, freshly made guacamole or salsa. Try swapping them for tortilla chips in nachos.

1 Pat plantain with paper towel to remove excess moisture. 2 Pour oil into a medium-size skillet and heat over mediumhigh heat. Fry plantain until bright yellow, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from oil and set on a paper-

122

towel-lined plate to cool. 3 Using a tortilla press or bottom of a plate, press plantain chunks one at a time to flatten. 4 Reheat oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry plantain until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from pan and place on a cooling rack. Season with salt. Makes about 9 tostones

Atomic 10 145 LAUDER AVE., TORONTO | ATOMIC10.CA Owners Anna Canzona and Victor Reinosa are taking the traditional tostone to new heights at their restaurant, Atomic10, where the goal is to show the versatility of the twice-fried plantain. The restaurateurs draw from their travels, pulling in flavours and ingredients from Latin America to Asia to create a menu of sandwiches that are unique in the city. Think fried chicken tostone with a sweet chili sauce, or the popular carne asada tostone with grilled beef and fried eggs.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

ATOMIC10 IMAGE BY DARREN KEMPER

1 green plantain, peeled and cut in 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks 3/4 cup (175 mL) canola oil Salt to taste

NEW

SLICE OF LIFE You can use simits in a variety of ways, from making a BLT sandwich to creating a picnic platter and accompanying it with spreads and dips.

What is a simit? The simit’s history dates back to the Ottoman Empire, and it is still regarded as one of the most popular forms of street food in Istanbul. It’s made by rolling dough in molasses and then generously coating it with sesame seeds before baking. While it may look like the bagel you’re used to, these bread rings tend to have a slightly chewier texture (reminiscent of Montreal-style bagels), with a hint of malty sweetness that’s complemented with nuttiness from the sesame seeds.

MUHAMMARA (Red Pepper Paste) Traditionally made with peppers, walnuts and spices, this vibrant dip comes in many forms throughout countries in the Levant. It is traditionally presented in a meze platter, but at Simit & Chai Co., muhammara is served as a spread for simit. Also try complementing the pepper paste with sliced avocado or cucumber.

787 KING ST. W., TORONTO | SIMITANDCHAI.CO

1 Preheat oven to broil.

Turkish olive tapenade Recipe on page 131

Toronto was introduced to the most ancient form of the bagel at this tiny spot on King West. What you can expect when you walk into Simit & Chai Co. is a taste of the traditional Turkish café. You’ll find an assortment of sweet pastries and a menu of teas, with the main draw being, of course, the Turkish bagel. A husband and wife team bakes two types of bagels: the chewy simit and a softer-style acma. Both can be enjoyed on their own (with tea, naturally) or as a sandwich in savoury (cream cheese and olives) and sweet (Nutella) forms. You can also pick up a few to take home to serve with homemade spreads.

124

2 Place red pepper on a baking sheet on upper rack of oven. Char skin of pepper on all sides, rotating pepper every few minutes, about 10 minutes. 3 Place red pepper in a bowl and cover with plastic. Once cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin and seeds.

4 Reduce oven temperature to 350°F (177°C). 5 Place walnuts on a baking sheet and toast, shaking pan halfway through, until golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. 6 Add toasted walnuts, red pepper flesh, bread crumbs, 4 tbsp (60 mL) olive oil, pomegranate molasses, red pepper flakes and lemon juice to a blender. Pulse until smooth paste forms. Add more olive oil if necessary to achieve paste-like consistency. 7 Season with salt. Add more pepper flakes if you prefer it spicier. Makes about 1 cup (250 mL)

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

SIMIT & CHAI CO. IMAGE BY DARREN KEMPER

Simit & Chai Co.

1 red pepper 1 cup (250 mL) walnuts 5 tbsp (75 mL) dried bread crumbs 4 to 6 tbsp (60 to 90 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) pomegranate molasses 2 tsp (10 mL) red pepper flakes (preferably Aleppo pepper), plus more to taste 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice Salt to taste

CC & GINGER

1.5oz CANADIAN CLUB, GINGER ALE & LIME

CC APPLE & SODA

1oz CANADIAN CLUB APPLE, CLUB SODA & LEMON

Recipes With wine, beer and spirit pairings by the LCBO’s Knowledge Resources Group.

Inside scoop

All surf, no turf

from page 20

from page 103

KOREAN-STYLE GRILLED CHEESE LOBSTER No, it’s not a grilled cheese sandwich with lobster—though that’s also delightful. This split and broiled lobster is based on a prized South Korean street food that’s found in Myeongdong, a vibrant Seoul shopping district teeming with outdoor vendors. Serve it hot and bubbly with pickled vegetables, kimchi potato salad or ginger-lime slaw on the side.

THE FROZEN HABITANT A classic Canadian cocktail that dates back to the 1960s, a Habitant is a Whisky Sour sweetened with maple syrup and spiced with Angostura bitters. Here it hits the blender with ice for a frozen summer treat. 4 oz Canadian whisky 2 oz pure maple syrup 2 oz strained fresh lemon juice 6 dashes Angostura bitters 2 cups (500 mL) ice cubes Compostable or paper straws 1 Stir together whisky, maple syrup, lemon

juice and bitters in an airtight container. Cover and freeze at least 6 hours and up to 2 days. (It will not solidify because of the alcohol. You just want it very cold.) 2 Place 2 lowball glasses in freezer just until

chilled. 3 Pour drink mixture into blender and add ice. Blend until smooth. Divide among chilled glasses. Serve with straws.

Makes 2 drink

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

2 lobsters, 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) each (see TIP 1) 2 tbsp (30 mL) sea salt 1/3 cup (80 mL) gochujang (Korean fermented red chili pepper paste) 3 tbsp (45 mL) dry sherry or mirin 2 tbsp (30 mL) rice vinegar 4 tsp (20 mL) honey 2 tsp (10 mL) toasted sesame oil 3 tbsp (45 mL) sliced chives or green onions, divided 1 1/4 cups (310 mL) shredded mozzarella

4 Cut body of each lobster in half lengthwise. Remove meat and cut into bite-size pieces; add to claw meat. Chop and add red coral (roe) to bowl, if present. Use a small spoon to scrape inside of shells clean, discarding green tomalley (see TIP 2) and sand sac behind eyes. Arrange shells cut side up in lightly greased metal 13 x 9-inch (3.5-L) baking pan. 5 Set oven rack in middle position; preheat broiler. 6 Stir together gochujang, sherry, vinegar, honey and oil. If very thick, thin out to sauce consistency by stirring in a spoonful or two of water. 7 Toss 1/4 cup (60 mL) gochujang mixture and half of the chives with lobster meat until coated. Divide evenly among reserved shells; spoon or brush remaining gochujang mixture evenly overtop. Cover lobster meat with cheese. 8 Broil until cheese is melted and golden, and lobster is heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining chives. Serves 4

1 Fill a large deep pot with enough water to cover lobsters; add salt and bring to full rolling boil over high heat.

TIP 1 Ask your fishmonger or market seafood

2 Plunge each lobster headfirst into water as quickly as possible. Immediately cover and return to a boil. Reduce heat to a lively simmer and cook until bright red, about 10 minutes. Transfer to bowl of ice water to stop the cooking; let stand until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes.

TIP 2 While tomalley is considered a delicacy by some, Health Canada recommends adults restrict their consumption due to natural toxins sometimes found in this organ.

3 Twist off claws at joint at body and separate claw and arm parts. Crack arm (or use kitchen shears to cut); scoop out meat and transfer to a bowl. Break off small part of claw and remove meat; add to bowl. Crack large part of claw and pull out meat, discarding strips of cartilage from each claw. Chop meat into bitesize pieces and add to bowl. Discard shells.

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

department to precook lobsters for you, if you prefer.

WHAT TO SERVE This food-friendly Chardonnay has tangy-sweet apple fruit and enough weight and balanced acidity to stand up to the spicy and savoury dish. Fielding Unoaked Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 164491, $15.95

127

Patio perfection from page 66

SUMMER CROSTINI I’ve been a little taken with nuts lately, and this one is as much about walnuts as it is about bright, summery flavours. Nuts are a nobrainer during the cooler (or downright cold) months, but their rich (a.k.a. fatty) mouth feel is even better when it’s butting up against acid and freshness. Truth be told, this one can do double duty as dinner—it’s that satisfying.

TIP You’ll need about 2 medium peppers to measure 1 cup (250 mL) chopped roasted peppers. Broil, 1 inch (2.5 cm) from element, turning from time to time, until darkly browned all over. If you prefer, you can use a hot outdoor grill, again turning until darkly browned. Remove peppers to a heatproof bowl, cover and let stand for 30 minutes. Peel (the skins should slip off easily), stem and seed before roughly chopping. Jarred peppers are often quite vinegary, but if that’s all you have time for, go for it—beware though you may not need any additional vinegar. Taste first and season with white wine vinegar only if necessary.

WALNUT & PEPPER SPREAD 1 cup (250 mL) walnut pieces 1 cup (250 mL) roughly chopped roasted orange or yellow pepper (see TIP) 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) white wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) honey Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 medium zucchini 4 1-inch (2.5-cm) thick slices sourdough, halved, if large 2 cloves garlic, peeled 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil, plus extra for garnishing 2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated lemon zest 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice Pinch chili flakes Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Grated Parmesan for garnish

1 For the walnut spread, preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). Arrange walnuts on a small baking sheet and toast for 6 minutes. Let cool, then add to a blender along with roasted pepper, oil, vinegar and honey. Process until smooth; season with salt and pepper to taste. Scrape into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days (return to room temperature before use). 2 When ready to serve, julienne zucchini using a mandoline (or coarsely grate on a box grater). Add to a small bowl and set aside. 3 Darkly toast sourdough using your preferred method. Rub 1 side of each slice with garlic. Spread generously with walnut spread. 4 Toss zucchini with oil, lemon zest and juice, and chili flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide between toasts and garnish each with an extra drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of Parmesan. Serves 8

128

WHAT TO SERVE This versatile wine is off-dry and fruity, with nutty notes, making it the ideal companion for this appetizer. Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc

1 For the peanut sauce, remove 1/2 cup (125 mL) liquid from can of chickpeas, as well as 1/2 cup (125 mL) chickpeas. Add both to a blender (reserve remaining chickpeas and liquid for another use), along with peanut butter, olive oil, vinegar and garlic. Purée. Add cumin, allspice and paprika. Pulse to combine, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Scrape into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days (return to room temperature before use). 2 Preheat grill to high heat. 3 Add cucumbers to a colander set in the sink. Toss with 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt and sugar. Let stand while cooking lamb. 4 Cut lamb into 2 equal-size pieces. Season generously with salt and pepper. Grill for 6 minutes per side for medium, rotating occasionally to form an even crust. Remove to a plate and tent with foil. Let rest for 10 minutes.

LCBO 253229, $17.05

LAMB & SPICED PEANUT SAUCE Boneless lamb neck is cheap, chewy and seriously good. Ask your butcher to bone the two flanks of meat on either side of the neck and to trim as much of the fat as possible. If all you’ve got is the grocery store, use lamb chops. Thawed, previously frozen, imported lamb racks (just cut them into individual chops before grilling) are a good sub. Grill chops for 1 minute a side over a searing hot grill. There’s enough sauce here for leftovers. Use in place of hummus to dress your favourite sandwich. SPICED PEANUT SAUCE 1 can (398 mL) chickpeas 1/2 cup (125 mL) well-stirred natural peanut butter 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 2 cloves garlic 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin 1/2 tsp (2 mL) each ground allspice and smoked paprika Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 mini cucumbers, very thinly sliced 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt, plus more to taste 1/2 tsp (2 mL) sugar 1 boneless lamb neck, about 1 1/4 lbs (565 g) Freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) red wine vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) toasted sesame seeds

5 When ready to serve, tip cucumbers into a small bowl and toss with vinegar; check seasoning and add more salt if necessary. Spoon about half of the peanut sauce over bottom of a platter (reserve the rest for another use). Carve lamb against the grain into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick slices. Arrange over sauce and arrange cucumbers over and around lamb. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve hot. Serves 8

WHAT TO SERVE Cabernet and Merlot are perfect together with lamb. This fruit-forward red is an ideal pairing to stand up to the salty and spicy rich peanut sauce. Peller Estates Family Series Cabernet Merlot VQA LCBO 58628, $12.95

TROPICAL WHITE WHISKY PUNCH In a large pitcher, combine 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) white whisky, 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) coconut water, 1/2 cup (125 mL) each simple syrup and passion fruit juice, and 1/4 cup (60 mL) lime juice. Stir to combine. Cut 8 passion fruits in half, scoop out pulp and seeds, and add to pitcher. Discard skins. Chill punch thoroughly and serve alongside ice, rocks glasses and lime wedges to garnish. Serves 8

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

STRAWBERRY PIMM’S CUP Add 2 cups (500 mL) hulled sliced strawberries and 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar to a large pitcher or punch bowl. Stir and let stand for 15 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) Pimm’s No. 1 Cup, 3 cups (750 mL) sparkling lemonade, 2 cups (500 mL) ice and 1/2 cup (125 mL) packed fresh mint leaves. Gently stir and serve alongside glasses. Serves 8

HALIBUT KOFTESI & DILLED FAVA SPREAD Koftesi is the word for meatballs in Turkey, and in Istanbul, a city literally surrounded by water, it’s a thing to serve fish in forms usually reserved for meat. So here’s mine—meatballs, but fishballs. Be careful not to overprocess the fish. You want small chunks of fish that barely stick together when forming the balls. Serve them with torn flatbread: It’s a known fact that food scooped up between layers of soft bread held between your fingers tastes better than anything eaten with a fork. DILLED FAVA SPREAD 1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil 6 cloves garlic, divided 2 cups (500 mL) shelled, cooked and skinned fava beans (see TIP) 1/4 cup (60 mL) roughly chopped fresh dill 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice

1 For the fava spread, heat olive oil in a small pot over low heat. Add 5 cloves garlic and cook, turning from time to time, until golden all over, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool completely. 2 Add oil, cooked garlic and remaining clove raw garlic to a food processor, along with fava beans, dill, lemon juice and cumin. Process until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread can be made up to 3 days ahead, topped with a thin layer of olive oil, covered and refrigerated until ready to serve 3 For the koftesi, bring the water to a boil in a small pot. Immediately add bulgur, 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Stir to combine, cover, remove from heat and let stand for 30 minutes. Remove lid and let cool completely. 4 Add bulgur mixture to a food processor along with garlic, green onions, cilantro and lemon zest. Pulse until onions and cilantro are finely chopped. Add cinnamon, coriander, a generous grinding of black pepper, fish and remaining 3/4 tsp (4 mL) salt. Pulse, scraping down sides as necessary, until fish is chopped (and not a paste) and mixture just begins to clump together. Using wet hands and 2 tbsp (30 mL) mixture, roll into a ball. Repeat with remaining mixture to create 16 balls. 5 Coat bottom of a large nonstick frying pan with oil and set over medium heat. Fry koftesi, turning from time to time, until lightly golden and opaque in centre, 10 to 12 minutes. 6 Cover the bottom of a large platter with fava spread and top with warm koftesi. Garnish with dill and/or cilantro and a few lemon wedges.

1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cumin Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Serves 8

HALIBUT KOFTESI

TIP You’ll need about 5 lbs (2.2 kg) fresh fava

1/2 cup (125 mL) water 1/4 cup (60 mL) bulgur 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil, plus extra for frying 1 1/4 tsp (6 mL) salt, divided 2 cloves garlic, finely grated 4 green onions, white and light green parts only, roughly chopped 1/2 cup (125 mL) packed fresh cilantro leaves and stems

beans in their pods to yield 2 cups (500 mL) shelled and peeled beans. If you prefer to use frozen beans, they are usually sold shelled but not peeled. You can use them this way, as the skin that surrounds each bean is edible, but if you prefer a gorgeous bright green spread, remove the army-green skin from each bean after cooking briefly in boiling water. 1 lb (455 g) frozen, shelled fava beans will yield 2 cups (500 mL) peeled.

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 3/4 tsp (4 mL) ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground coriander seed Freshly ground black pepper 1 lb (455 g) halibut fillet, roughly chopped Fresh dill and/or cilantro for garnish Lemon wedges for garnish

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

WHAT TO SERVE Citrus and herbal flavours in the wine harmonize with the ingredients in this recipe. The crisp acidity will provide balance on the palate. Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 430546, $14.95

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

129

LITTLE GEM HAND SALAD

PROSECCO BAR

Slice of life

This salad owes a debt to Wildair, a cuttingedge New York wine bar with some of that city’s most exciting plates. The dressing here is tuna salad in liquid form, takes a minute or so to make in a blender, and is topped with chopped egg and plenty of summery herbs— in other words, it’s a tuna salad, only way better looking. There’s enough dressing to save some for tomorrow’s grilled or raw veg.

Making your pals feel welcome is the first step in a successful get-together. As much as you’d like to tell them what to drink, it’s better to give them a choice—but not so much choice that you’re running and ducking and striving to please. Herewith, the answer. Twenty minutes of work on your end, a few seconds on theirs, and everyone’s happy.

from page 121

DRESSING 1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise 2 cans (80 g each) tuna in olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) drained capers 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 3 anchovy fillets Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup (60 mL) each roughly chopped fresh dill, tarragon and parsley

2 bottles chilled Prosecco 1 recipe Cucumber Limeade 1 recipe Rhubarb Lemonade 1 recipe Strawberry Purée

1 Fill a large bucket with ice. Nestle in Prosecco, Cucumber Limeade, Rhubarb Lemonade and Strawberry Purée. Arrange flutes alongside and encourage your guests to add 2 oz of their chosen mixer to a glass before topping up with Prosecco. Makes 12 drinks

2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped 8 heads Little Gem lettuce Olive oil for drizzling 1/2 a lemon Salt

1 For the dressing, combine mayonnaise, entire contents of cans of tuna, capers, lemon juice and anchovies in a blender. Process until very smooth. Season with pepper. Scrape into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. 2 When ready to serve, combine dill, tarragon, parsley and eggs in a small bowl. Cut lettuce in half lengthwise. Drizzle cut side of each with a small bit of olive oil and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice overtop. Season each with a little salt. Working with 1 lettuce half at a time, spoon a generous amount of dressing over cut surface, spreading to edge, then sprinkle herb and egg mixture over dressing. Repeat with remaining lettuce, arrange on a platter and serve.

CUCUMBER LIMEADE Combine 2 chopped mini cucumbers and 1/3 cup (80 mL) sugar in a cocktail shaker. Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Add 1/4 cup (60 mL) lime juice. Stir, then fine-strain into a small pitcher, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) water, cover and refrigerate until chilled. Limeade will keep for 2 days. Makes 2 cups (500 mL)

RHUBARB LEMONADE Add 1 cup (250 mL) chopped rhubarb (about 1 stalk) and 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar to a cocktail shaker. Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Add 2 tbsp (30 mL) runny honey and 3 tbsp (45 mL) lemon juice. Stir until honey is dissolved, then fine-strain into a small pitcher, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) water, cover and refrigerate until chilled. Lemonade will keep for 2 days.

Serves 8 Makes 2 cups (500 mL)

WHAT TO SERVE Steam Whistle pilsner is refreshingly crisp, with lively hops and floral tones. It’s the perfect choice to match the salad—and cleanse the palate.

STRAWBERRY PURÉE Combine 1 lb (455 g) hulled and roughly chopped strawberries, 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar and 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice in a blender and purée. Fine-strain into a small pitcher to remove seeds, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Steam Whistle Premium Pilsner LCBO 492009, 473 mL, $3.35

130

Makes 2 cups (500 mL)

MILK BREAD Milk bread has become a foodie favourite for a variety of reasons. It has a pleasing soft texture and a hint of sweetness that complements whatever it’s paired with. This bread can easily be made at home and frozen for a few weeks, ready to be used for anything from eggy breakfast sandwiches to fried chicken “sandos.” This recipe is from chef Chris Jang of Momofuku in Toronto. 4 1/2 cups (1.125 L) all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for kneading 3/4 cup (175 mL) water Softened unsalted butter, for greasing bowl and pans 1/4 cup (60 mL) Red Fife flour 1/4 cup (60 mL) sugar 4 tsp (20 mL) milk powder 1 3/4 tsp (9 mL) salt 1 package (8 g) quick-rise yeast 1 cup (250 mL) whole milk, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter, melted

1 In a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk 1/4 cup (60 mL) all-purpose flour and water. Cook, whisking continuously, until a smooth, glue-like paste forms, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. 2 Lightly butter a large mixing bowl and generously butter two 9 x 5-inch (23 x 12-cm) loaf pans. 3 In bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add remaining 4 1/4 cups (1.06 L) all-purpose flour, Red Fife flour, sugar, milk powder, salt and yeast. Stir to combine. Add milk, egg and flour paste. Mix on low speed, scraping down bowl if necessary, until fully incorporated, about 5 minutes. 4 Add melted butter and increase speed to medium-low. Mix until dough is shiny and elastic, 10 to 12 minutes. Form dough into ball and place in greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in warm area until doubled in volume, about 1 hour. 5 Transfer dough to floured work surface. Gently knead for 3 minutes, sprinkling with flour if sticky. Divide dough in half, then divide each half into thirds. Shape each piece into a ball, then squish into an oval. Place 3 ovals evenly in each prepared pan. Cover loosely

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

with plastic wrap. Place in warm area until dough doubles in volume, about 45 minutes. 6 While dough is rising, preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 7 Bake on centre rack until golden brown and baked through, about 30 minutes. (An instant read thermometer inserted in centres should register at least 190°F/88°C.) Remove from oven. Let cool for 15 minutes, then carefully transfer loaves to cooling rack. Let cool for another 30 minutes before slicing. Makes 2 loaves

WINE CAN CORNISH HENs WITH SUMAC & POMEGRANATE MOLASSES These sweetandsourflavoured hens get their tang from the pomegranate molasses (it may also be called pomegranate glaze or reduction and is similar to balsamic glaze but more tart). To find pomegranate molasses at a store near you, visit redcrown.ca. 3 tbsp (45 mL) pomegranate molasses 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) sumac

MISO PORK & JAPANESE EGGPLANT SKEWERS

1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt

TURKISH OLIVE TAPENADE Another popular condiment and pantry staple in Turkish cuisine is a chunky olive paste made with garlic and vinegar. It’s rich and tangy, and great as a spread for simit. Tapenade can also be used for seasoning fish. 2 cups (500 mL) pitted green or black olives 1 tbsp (15 mL) capers, drained 2 tsp (10 mL) good-quality extra virgin olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) red or white wine vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) dried thyme 1 clove garlic

1 Place olives, capers, oil, vinegar, thyme and garlic in a blender. Purée, scraping down sides and bottom of blender as necessary, until granular paste forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Tapenade can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks in the fridge. Makes 1 1/4 cups (310 mL)

Fire it up! from page 43

SIMPLE CUCUMBER SALAD This is the quickest salad you’re likely to make! It is the perfect side dish with Middle Eastern foods, and any leftovers are great on a sandwich. 1 medium English cucumber, thinly sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) minced red onion 1 tbsp (15 mL) white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) sugar 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt

2 cans (each 250 mL) red wine 2 Cornish hens, 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) each (remember to remove neck from cavity)

1 In a medium bowl, stir together molasses, olive oil, sumac, salt and 1 tbsp (15 mL) red wine from each can. Add hens and coat well with marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 2 Empty out each can of wine to half full, reserving extra for sipping or another recipe. 3 Preheat grill to high heat with lid closed. 4 Meanwhile, carefully scrunch 1 large piece of foil around bottom half of each can (without covering the base of can). This will act as a support for cans and hens. 5 Carefully work 1 can into cavity of each hen as far as it will go. Place both in a solid bottomed ovenproof pan, such as a cast iron pan or heavy skillet. Reserve marinade. 6 Carefully place pan to one side of grill and close lid. Turn down heat on the side with hens to low and cook with the indirect high heat of the other side of grill for 15 minutes. If the grill has a temperature gauge it should read around 400°F (204°C). 7 Lift lid and rotate pan to cook hens evenly. Baste with remaining marinade. 8 Close lid and cook until hens are browned and have some slight charring, and internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C), about 10 minutes more. Be sure to keep a close eye on progress, as the sweetness in the molasses can cause burning.

1 In a medium bowl, stir together cucumber, onion, vinegar, sugar and salt, separating cu cumber slices to combine ingredients well. Re frigerate until ready to use (up to 1 day ahead).

9 Let rest for 5 minutes before carefully sliding hens off cans. Serve whole with Simple Cucumber Salad (recipe this page).

Serves 2

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

These skewers have a delicate flavour that is deliciously enhanced by grilled green onions. It is sure to become a summertime favourite. Serve with rice or Asianstyle bing bread. 1 tbsp (15 mL) white miso paste 2 tbsp (30 mL) hot water 1 tbsp (15 mL) orange juice 1 lb (455 g) pork tenderloin, diagonally sliced in 1 1/2-inch (4-cm) pieces 1 large Japanese eggplant 4 green onions, or more if needed, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces 1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce

1 In a medium bowl, stir together miso, hot water and orange juice, breaking up miso with a fork. The heat of the water helps dissolve the miso. 2 Add pork and stir to coat each piece well. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours and up to 24 hours. 3 Slice eggplant crosswise into 3/4inch (2cm) medallions. (Don’t slice them too thin, as they will break once skewered.) 4 Divide pork and eggplant into 4 equal portions. 5 Using 4 long metal skewers (or 8 small), start by threading 1 piece of pork, then fold green onion accordionstyle and thread onto skewer, then skewer 1 eggplant medallion. Repeat until all ingredients are threaded onto skewers. 6 Preheat oiled grill to high with lid closed. 7 In a small bowl, stir together sesame oil, vegetable oil and soy sauce. Baste skewers on both sides with oil mixture, making sure to brush eggplant first and then using all the oil to brush the rest. 8 Grill skewers on 1 side until lightly charred, about 4 minutes. Flip and grill second side for additional 4 minutes. Makes 4 large skewers or 8 small

131

WINE CAN CORNISH HENs WITH PARSLEY, HONEY & PECANS Here we are riffing on the ever-popular beer can chicken and elevating it with Cornish hens and some white wine. The wine steams the birds from the inside, keeping them moist and flavourful. 3/4 cup (175 mL) coarsely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley 1/4 cup (60 mL) pecans (pieces or whole) 2 tbsp (30 mL) honey 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 cans (each 250 mL) white wine 2 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt Black pepper to taste 2 Cornish hens, 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) each (remember to remove neck from cavity)

1 In a small food processor or blender, add parsley, pecans, honey, olive oil, 1 tbsp (15 mL) white wine from each can, shallots, salt and pepper. Process until smooth. Empty out each can of wine to half full, reserving extra for sipping or another recipe. 2 Place marinade in a medium bowl, add hens and coat well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 3 Preheat grill to high heat with lid closed. 4 Meanwhile, carefully scrunch 1 large piece of foil around bottom half of each can (without covering base of can). This will act as a support for cans and hens. 5 Carefully work 1 can into cavity of each hen as far as it will go. Place both in a solidbottomed ovenproof pan, such as a cast iron pan or heavy skillet. Reserve marinade. 6 Carefully place pan to one side of grill and close lid. Turn down heat on the side with hens to low and cook with the indirect high heat of the other side of grill for 15 minutes. If the grill has a temperature gauge it should read around 400°F (204°C). 7 Lift lid and rotate pan to cook hens evenly. Baste with remaining marinade.

WHITE BEAN SALAD This easy salad is lovely with the Cornish hens and on its own makes for a terrific lunch. Add some tuna or grilled chicken to make it even more substantial. 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) white wine vinegar Salt to taste 1 can (540 mL) white beans, rinsed and drained 1 cup (250 mL) cherry tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1 cup (250 mL) arugula

1 In a medium bowl, stir together olive oil, vinegar and salt. Add beans, tomatoes and arugula, and lightly toss. This salad can be made and refrigerated up to 3 days ahead, but add arugula just before serving.

2 Meanwhile, divide dough in half. On a floured surface, roll each piece into a 12-inch (30-cm) circle. (No need for a perfect circle— the bigger concern is to make sure it isn’t sticking. Knead in a bit of flour if it is.) 3 When pizza stone is fully heated, place 1 dough circle on lightly floured pizza peel. Top pizza with half of tomato sauce, mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, tuna, red onions, capers and oregano. Season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. 4 Slide pizza onto heated pizza stone and close lid. 5 Cook until cheese has melted and turned deep golden, and base of dough is crisp, about 8 minutes. Top pizza with half the fresh herbs and drizzle with 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil. 6 Repeat process with second dough circle. Makes two 12-inch (30-cm) pizzas

Serves 2

HOMEMADE PIZZA DOUGH GRILLED “PIZZA AL TONNO” WITH TOMATO & HERB SALAD

Don’t overthink pizza dough. It is easy to make and gives a real sense of accomplishment!

What makes this pizza great is the freshtasting sauce, top-notch tuna and refreshing herb salad that lends a touch of brightness. This recipe can easily be doubled for four pizzas.

1 1/4 cups (310 mL) warm water (approx.), divided 1 package (8 g) traditional dry yeast 1/2 tsp (2 mL) sugar 3 cups (750 mL) all-purpose flour (approx.) 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 1 tsp (5 mL) salt

Pizza stone or steel 1 ball (750 g) store-bought pizza dough or Homemade Pizza Dough (recipe follows) Flour for dusting 1 cup (250 mL) fresh tomato sauce (look for something made by your local Italian grocer), divided 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) grated mozzarella, divided 1/2 cup (125 mL) finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, divided 1 can (160 g) good-quality solid tuna in oil, divided 1/2 cup (125 mL) thinly sliced red onions, divided 2 tbsp (30 mL) drained capers, divided 1 tbsp (15 mL) coarsely chopped fresh oregano, divided Salt to taste

1 In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir together 1/4 cup (60 mL) warm water, yeast and sugar. Let stand until mixture foams up, about 15 minutes. 2 Add flour, olive oil, salt and 1 cup (250 mL) warm water. Using dough hook on low speed, begin to mix ingredients. As ingredients pull together, increase speed slightly until ball forms. If dough seems dry, add warm water 1 tbsp (15 mL) at a time; if it is too wet, add 1 tbsp (15 mL) flour at a time. Mix until dough comes off sides of bowl and forms a ball. 3 Remove dough and knead on a floured surface until no longer sticky but soft and pliable, about 3 minutes.

8 Close lid and cook until hens are golden and have an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C), about 10 minutes more.

Red pepper flakes to taste 2 cups (500 mL) fresh mixed herbs (a great mix for this pizza is 2 parts arugula to 1 part each basil and flat leaf parsley), divided

4 Place dough back into bowl and cover with a clean tea towel. Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.

9 Let rest for 5 minutes before carefully sliding hens off cans. Serve whole with White Bean Salad (recipe follows).

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, divided

5 Remove dough, form into ball, cut in half and use immediately or wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 48 hours.

Serves 2

132

1 Place pizza stone on half of grill, close lid and preheat grill to at least 500°F (260°C), about 20 minutes.

Makes 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) pizza dough

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Early risers from page 80

MANGO-GINGER CRISPY BEEF In Canada, you can usually get mangoes all year round. Featuring mango in this spring-ingredient roundup may be unexpected, but it’s a time when different varieties of these delicious imports are in season where they’re grown. At this time of year, look for Mexican Ataulfo mangoes. They add soft, luscious texture and sweet flavour to this riff on a classic takeout favourite, but really, any type of mango will do. 2 large or 3 small mangoes 1/4 cup (60 mL) lightly packed brown sugar 1/4 cup (60 mL) soy sauce 1/4 cup (60 mL) rice wine vinegar 1 lb (455 g) sirloin tip steak 1/4 cup (60 mL) cornstarch 4 cups (1 L) plus 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil, divided 2-inch (5-cm) long piece of fresh ginger, peeled, cut into matchsticks 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 red pepper, cut in thin strips 1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil 3 green onions, green parts only, thinly sliced 1/4 cup (60 mL) coarsely chopped cashews (optional)

1 Slice off each mango “cheek” around the seed (often referred to as the “pit”) and thinly slice. Carefully pressing knife as close as possible to peel, slice away flesh. Discard peel. Cut any remaining flesh away from seed. (It’s okay if pieces are uneven.) 2 In a medium bowl, whisk sugar, soy sauce and vinegar. Set aside. 3 Cut steak into thin strips. Add to a large bowl or shallow plate. Sprinkle with cornstarch. Toss to evenly coat. 4 Partially fill a deep-fryer or large, deep pot with 4 cups (1 L) oil. Heat to 375°F (191°C). Deepfry beef in 2 batches until crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate. 5 Add remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil to a wok or large, deep frying pan set over medium-high heat. Stir-fry ginger and garlic until softened slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add red pepper. Stir-fry until softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Pour in reserved sauce. Cook until slightly reduced and glazy, about 5 minutes. Stir in sesame oil. Add beef. Stir to evenly coat. Add mango. Stir to lightly coat. Garnish with green onions and cashews, if desired. Delicious served over steamed white rice. Makes 2 to 3 servings

134

WHAT TO SERVE Gewürztraminer is fruit-forward and exceptionally versatile. Its weight stands up to the beef’s richness, while its exotic fruitiness embraces the ginger and mango. Pelee Island Lola Gewürztraminer VQA LCBO 618231, $13.95

CREAMY CHICKEN GALETTE WITH RAMPS & MORELS Ramps (a.k.a wild leeks) are a springtime treasure—popping up only for a short time each year—and should be treated as such. They grow wild, so be sure to purchase them from a forager who knows their stuff (and how to leave the root behind so they can grow back again the following year). Their mild leek-andscallion flavour shines through in this chickenpot-pie-meets-pizza recipe. Want to take advantage of even more foraged delights? Add morel mushrooms to the mix. Feel free to use leftover or precooked chicken breasts; simply shred cooked chicken into bite-sized pieces and proceed with step 3. 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 tsp (5 mL) olive or vegetable oil Pinch each salt and pepper

BÉCHAMEL 1 cup (250 mL) homogenized milk 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter

2 Rub chicken with oil, salt and pepper. Set on a small rimmed baking sheet. Bake in centre of preheated oven until cooked through, 12 to 14 minutes. Let cool completely. Shred into bite-sized pieces. 3 Meanwhile, prepare béchamel. Heat milk in a small saucepan set over medium heat until warm. In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, melt butter until bubbling. When bubbling, stir in flour. Slowly whisk in warm milk. Continue whisking until smooth and thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg and pepper. Let cool completely. 4 If using unrolled pastry, roll into a rough 12-inch (30-cm) circle on a lightly floured surface. Place on a large rimmed baking sheet (lined with parchment for easy cleanup). Spread béchamel over pastry in a rough circle, leaving approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) of edge uncovered. If using pre-rolled pastry with a rectangular shape, simply follow the same instructions for spreading béchamel; any extra overhang will be folded when assembling. Top béchamel with chicken. Scatter with mozzarella. 5 In a medium bowl, add ramps and morels (if using). Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Fold edge of pastry up over border of filling, overlapping as needed. Brush pastry with egg. 6 Bake galette in centre of preheated oven for 15 minutes. Remove from oven. Scatter ramps and morels overtop. Continue baking until puffed and beginning to golden, about 10 minutes more. Remove from oven. Squeeze lemon overtop and/or sprinkle with chili flakes, if desired. Cut into wedges.

2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour 1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt 2 generous pinches nutmeg, about 1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) Generous grinding freshly ground black pepper 1 sheet (425 g) pre-rolled puff pastry or 1/2 a 397 g block puff pastry (unrolled) 250 g ball fresh mozzarella, drained and torn in chunks, or 1 cup (250 mL) freshly grated block mozzarella 6 ramps (wild leeks), about 1 small bunch, thoroughly washed and trimmed, coarsely chopped

Serves 4 to 6

TIP Gently brush any dirt from mushrooms. Cut in half lengthwise. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add a generous amount of kosher salt, stirring to dissolve. Add mushrooms. Let stand for 15 minutes, occasionally stirring gently. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mushrooms to a strainer. Morels have a tendency to carry undesirable travellers; if there are any, the salt will draw them out. Repeat the salt water rinsing process until nothing lingers at the bottom of the bowl. Drain well and pat dry.

8 morel mushrooms, optional (see TIP) 1/2 tsp (2 mL) olive or vegetable oil Pinch salt 1 egg, beaten with a little water 1/4 lemon (optional) Chili flakes for garnish (optional)

WHAT TO SERVE This rosé is a customer favourite. Its acidity and red fruit will counter the crust and sauce, as well as the ramps’ savoury notes. Malivoire Ladybug Rosé VQA

1 Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C).

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 559088, $16.95

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

GARLIC SCAPE & LARDON CARBONARA Elevate traditional carbonara by cutting bacon into French-style lardon strips, and boost the flavour with robust garlic scapes—the flowering stem of hardneck garlic. Delicately garlicky and slightly sweet, scapes bring loads of fresh spring flavour to pleasingly rich carbonara. For even more seasonal oomph, toss a cup of fresh or frozen peas into the boiling pasta just before draining. 3/4 lb (340 g) thick-cut bacon 6 garlic scapes, thickly sliced

and glossy. Serve immediately in pasta bowls, sprinkled with more cheese and black pepper, and reserved cooked garlic scapes.

GREEN SAUCE

Makes 4 servings

2 tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil Pinch salt, preferably kosher

WHAT TO SERVE

12 corn tortillas

Gavi is a great pairing for pasta carbonara. This wine’s acidity and fruity tones provide a foil to the bacon and Parmigiano-Reggiano’s density and saltiness.

1/2 cup (125 mL) crumbled queso, such as cotija or feta

Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi DOCG

1 For the radishes, scrub radishes. Toss with olive oil and salt. Set aside.

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 250696, $19.95

1 cup (250 mL) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more to taste 1 lemon (optional) 1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 1 lb (455 g) spaghetti

3 Prepare green sauce. Finely chop green onions and cilantro. Place in a bowl. Stir in olive oil, then lime juice. Season with salt and set aside.

1 Bring a large pasta pot of water to a boil.

4 Season boiling water with salt so it’s salty like the sea. Cook pasta until almost al dente. (To do this, reduce the package’s suggested cooking time by about 2 minutes.) Carefully scoop out 1 cup (250 mL) pasta water and set aside. Drain pasta well. 5 Add pasta to pan with garlic scapes. Add a splash of pasta water and a squeeze of lemon juice, if you like. Using tongs, toss to coat, or stir to mix. Pour in egg mixture while tossing or stirring. Add bacon. Stir in a little more pasta water just until pasta is evenly coated

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

1/4 cup (60 mL) crema or sour cream

2 For the shrimp, if shrimp need defrosting, place in a strainer and run cold water overtop until defrosted. Pinch tails, then remove and discard. Pat dry with paper towels and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with paprika, cumin, oregano and salt. Stir to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

2 large egg yolks

3 In a medium bowl, whisk eggs with cheese, 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon zest, if you like, and pepper.

1/2 cup (125 mL) packed fresh cilantro leaves 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice

3 large whole eggs

2 Cut bacon into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick strips. Add to a large, deep skillet or frying pan set over medium heat. Cook until crisp, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove to paper towels. Carefully pour off fat into a separate container (discard or refrigerate and save for another use), leaving about 1 tbsp (15 mL) or a thin coating in pan. Add garlic scapes. Cook, stirring often, until softened slightly, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Remove 2 tbsp (30 mL) cooked garlic scapes and set aside for garnish.

4 green onions, green parts only

4 Preheat barbecue to medium-high heat. Place a large piece of foil over grill.

GRILLED RADISH & SHRIMP TACOS Radishes are a classic in tacos, so why not make them the star? Simply oil and grill, then cut in half (rather than shaving or shredding them). This cooking method allows the radishes to still be crunchy while mellowing their sharp flavour. They make the perfect partners for sweet and delicate shrimp. Complete the meal by serving alongside coleslaw (or another crunchy salad) and a zesty Margarita or cold beer. RADISHES

5 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Stack tortillas and wrap in foil. Heat until warm, about 12 minutes. Remove from oven and wrap foil package in a dishtowel to keep tortillas warm. 6 Carefully tumble radishes overtop 1 side of foil. Grill until tender but still firm, about 8 minutes. Add shrimp to other side of foil. Grill until pink, about 2 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. 7 Immediately serve radishes and shrimp family-style alongside green sauce, tortillas, queso and crema.

2 bunches large radishes 1 tbsp (15 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Makes 4 servings

1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt or generous pinch table salt

SHRIMP 3/4 lb (340 g) large black tiger shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 tbsp (15 mL) smoked paprika 1 tbsp (15 mL) ground cumin 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried oregano 1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt or generous pinch table salt

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

WHAT TO SERVE This amber ale is a great match. Its grain, nut and caramel flavours will complement the dish’s earthy notes, and the carbonation refreshes the palate. Hockley Amber Ale LCBO 355065, 473 mL, $2.85

135

4 Serve warm poached rhubarb sprinkled with crisp topping and dolloped with whipped cream. Makes 6 servings

TIP Leftover rhubarb poaching liquid will keep well, covered and refrigerated in an airtight container, for at least 1 week. It’s delicious used in place of simple syrup in cocktails or drizzled over yogurt, porridge or desserts.

NEW-STYLE RHUBARB CRISP Don’t ruin spring’s calling-card ingredient with a baked crisp! Hear me out: After chopping and baking rhubarb stalks, you’re usually left with a pale purée. This stovetop method requires a bit more babysitting, but it comes together in less than half an hour (including prep and cook time). Poaching long pieces of rhubarb allows them to keep their shape and deliciously sour edge. Here, perfectly sweet-tart poached rhubarb is sprinkled with a toasted rustic crisp topping and dolloped with whipped cream. 8 large or 12 medium rhubarb stalks, about 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) 4 cups (1 L) water 5 long strips lemon peel (about 1 small lemon) 3 cups (750 mL) sugar 2 1/2 cups (625 mL) quick oats 1/2 cup (125 mL) lightly packed brown sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped walnuts 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cardamom 1/2 cup (125 mL) butter Whipped cream for garnish

1 Cut rhubarb into 4-inch (10-cm) long pieces. Pour water into a large pot. Add lemon peel. Bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in sugar until dissolved. 2 Using a slotted spoon, carefully add rhubarb pieces. Adjust heat as needed so liquid is barely simmering. Poach in liquid until tender but not falling apart, about 8 minutes. Use slotted spoon to carefully remove rhubarb to plates. See TIP. 3 Stir oats with brown sugar, flour, walnuts and cardamom. In a large skillet or frying pan, melt butter over medium-high heat until foamy. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until butter begins to separate and deep golden specks appear, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately stir in oat mixture until evenly coated. Reduce heat to medium. Continue to cook until toasted and ingredients begin to stick together, about 5 minutes. Topping will be crumbly.

136

WHAT TO SERVE Such a delightfully tart dessert begs for the perfect pairing. Look no further than this cider. Its tangy-sweet apple notes resonate with the dish’s flavours. D’Ont Poke the Bear Berry Cider LCBO 15174, 473 mL, $3.40

1 Trim ends and remove brown papery bits from fiddleheads. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Soak fiddleheads to release dirt and debris. Scoop out and remove any papery bits. Carefully remove fiddleheads, leaving settled dirt on bottom of bowl. Repeat process, rinsing and refilling bowl with fresh cold water until very clean. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels. 2 Bring large pan partially filled with water to a boil. Add fiddleheads. Cook just until fork-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Immediately plunge into a bowl of ice water. Let cool completely, then drain well. Pat very dry. 3 In a large, wide frying pan set over medium heat, cook prosciutto until crisp and edges begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and continue cooking until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove to a plate. Tear into 32 pieces. 4 Finely grate 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon zest. Set aside. Squeeze 2 tbsp (30 mL) juice from lemon. Place mascarpone in a medium bowl. Stir in lemon juice. 5 Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). 6 Slice baguette into 32 thin slices. Arrange on a large rimmed baking sheet. Toast until lightly golden and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from oven. Using about 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil, brush 1 side of each toast with oil. Rub with garlic. Place, oil side down, on a serving tray.

FIDDLEHEAD & PROSCIUTTO PINWHEELS Curled and almost like filigree, fiddlehead ferns are a sight for sore eyes when you catch that first glance at the farmers’ market. Let them take centre stage by simply serving over toast. There are a few steps for this appetizer, but it’s simple to prepare. You won’t regret taking the time, as the mascarpone and crisp prosciutto create a perfect contrast for the fiddleheads’ grassy, vegetal flavour. When fiddleheads aren’t available, a bunch of asparagus makes a fine substitute. 32 fiddleheads, 3 to 4 oz (85 to 115 g) 6 slices prosciutto 1 lemon 1 cup (250 mL) mascarpone 1 baguette 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 garlic clove, halved, root removed 1 shallot or 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced Salt and pepper

7 Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil to frying pan. (It’s fine if it’s unwashed from cooking prosciutto.) Heat to medium heat and add shallot. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add fiddleheads. Cook, stirring frequently, until warmed through, about 3 minutes. 8 Meanwhile, spread toasts with mascarpone mixture. Divide prosciutto among topped toasts. To each, add a fiddlehead (preferably still warm, but don’t fret if they’re room temperature). Sprinkle with reserved lemon zest, salt and pepper. Prepared toasts will keep well at room temperature for about 2 hours. Makes 32 toasts

WHAT TO SERVE A local Pinot Noir that’s fruity with an earthy beetroot note finds harmony with this appetizer. Its palate-cleansing acidity completes the match. Flat Rock Pinot Noir VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 1545, $22.95

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Flavours to savour

PICKLED GIBSON

from page 59

This sleek and sophisticated cocktail is surprisingly savoury, thanks to the fennel-forward pickle vodka. The celery bitters, available at The Crafty Bartender (thecraftybartender.com), in this cocktail help soften the intense anise taste of this vodka, but a few drops of cold-pressed celery juice will do the job as well.

STOCKHOLM SPRITZ Fresh, lively and easy to make, this cocktail is also slightly more mellow than most vodka drinks, since Svedka is a low-alcohol-by-volume spirit. Because they’re intense and spicy, Kinsip’s Chili Espresso Bitters, available at The Crafty Bartender (thecraftybartender.com), really help to brighten up and balance out this cocktail but, in a pinch, you can use standard Angostura bitters instead.

1 1/2 oz Sask Prairie Dill Pickle Vodka 3/4 oz Tio Pepe Fino Sherry (or manzanilla sherry)

15 dashes Bittered Sling Cascade Celery Bitters Fresh dill sprig or fennel greens, for garnish Pickled onion, for garnish

1 Stir vodka, sherry and bitters in an icefilled mixing glass for 45 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with dill sprig and pickled onion. Makes 1 drink

1 1/2 oz Svedka Rosé Vodka 1/2 oz Grand Marnier

NEW

1 1/2 oz fresh pink grapefruit juice

TO THE

2 oz Fever-Tree Indian Tonic Water 5 drops Kinsip Chili Espresso Bitters Grapefruit twist for garnish

1 Add vodka, Grand Marnier and grapefruit juice to an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake for 45 seconds. Strain into a wineglass over ice and add tonic water and bitters. Garnish with grapefruit twist.

MEXICO’S BEST KEPT SECRET

LCBO

Makes 1 drink

THE BARISTA Inspired by Italian aperitivo culture, this drink is a perfect summer afternoon cooler— a zesty iced coffee cocktail to top off an alfresco lunch.

Produced at our family distillery in the historic town of Tequila, since 1959. Every drop a celebration of passion and heritage. VISIT OUR FAMILIA AT

tequileño.com

2 fresh mint sprigs, divided 1 1/2 oz Pravda Espresso Flavoured Vodka 1 1/2 oz Aperol 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 1 cup (250 mL) cubed ice 2 cups (500 mL) crushed ice Lemon wedge for garnish

1 Put leaves from 1 mint sprig in the base of a cocktail shaker and gently crush with a muddler or wooden spoon. Add vodka, Aperol, lemon juice and cubed ice, and shake for 45 seconds. 2 Overfill a large rocks glass with crushed ice and strain drink into glass. Garnish with lemon wedge and remaining mint sprig.

Scan to Discover our Reposado Gran Reserva

Makes 1 drink

92 Please discover responsibly.

POINTS

®™ Trademark of Jorge Salles Cuervo y Sucesores, S.A. de C.V.

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

137

Take it easy from page 53

LEMON LAVENDER BARS A classic lemon bar with an unexpected twist, this dessert features a no-bake crust and a stovetop lemon curd filling. The addition of homemade lavender sugar gives a subtle floral hint to elevate the citrus flavours and help you embrace the early summer season. It’s a wonderful treat to serve this time of year! CRUST

5 Cut into even squares, wiping knife with wet paper or tea towel between each cut. Dust with icing sugar and garnish with lemon peel curls (or any extra zest). Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. Makes 16 bars

WHAT TO SERVE Lemon and berries are complementary flavours. This cider’s pleasant sweetness and raspberry, blueberry and honey notes provide a great match to a citrus dessert.

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) graham cracker crumbs 1/4 cup (60 mL) oat flour 1/3 cup (80 mL) sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, melted Pinch salt

Brickworks Ciderhouse Rosé Cider

FILLING

Pretty, please

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) culinary lavender Zest of 2 lemons 1/4 cup (60 mL) water 3/4 cup (175 mL) fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup (60 mL) cornstarch 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cold, cubed 6 large egg yolks, at room temperature Icing sugar for dusting Lemon peel curls for garnish

1 For the crust, place graham cracker crumbs, oat flour, sugar, butter and salt in a large mixing bowl. Stir until well blended. Transfer to an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking dish lined with parchment paper. Pat down into a firm, even crust. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes or overnight. 2 For the filling, place sugar, lavender and lemon zest in a food processer. Pulse until lavender is finely blended into sugar, about 1 minute. 3 Transfer sugar mixture to a large saucepan. Add water, lemon juice and cornstarch. Whisk to combine. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking often, until mixture is hot and giving off steam, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in butter until emulsified. 4 Place egg yolks in a large bowl. Whisk to combine. Slowly whisk lemon mixture into yolks to temper. Return mixture to saucepan and continue cooking, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens like a loose mayo, about 20 minutes. Pour filling over prepared crust. Place on cooling rack and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours.

138

LCBO 625236, 473 mL, $3.50

BUTTERFLY PEA LEMONADE Butterfly pea flowers are native to Southeast Asia and are a deep blue colour. When brewed as a tea, they are caffeine-free and have very little flavour. Remarkably, when the pH level of the tea is altered by adding acid such as citrus, it changes from blue to purple, making it a wonderful addition to cocktails. Our simple lemonade can be served with or without alcohol and is sure to impress at your next gathering! Find dried butterfly pea flowers at cocktailemporium.com. 1 Fill a wine goblet with ice. Add 1 1/2 oz bianco vermouth and 5 oz lemonade. Top with 1 oz Butterfly Pea Flower Tea (recipe follows). Garnish with a lemon wheel. Makes 1 drink

from page 74

HIBISCUS COLLINS Hibiscus tea is made with a combination of dried flowers, leaves and pods, and is usually a deep red colour when steeped. It is said to have many beneficial health qualities. The taste is floral but sour, which makes it the perfect cocktail candidate. We take advantage of the great colour and flavour with this gin Collins, which is the perfect accompaniment for your first barbecue of the season.

BUTTERFLY PEA FLOWER tea To a small saucepan, add 1 cup (250 mL) water and 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried butterfly pea flowers. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add peel of 1 orange. Let cool, remove solids and refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 weeks. Makes enough for 8 cocktails

1 Steep 2 hibiscus tea bags (or substitute with a citrus and hibiscus blend, such as Celestial Seasonings Yellow Zinger) in half the amount of boiling water as instructed. Let cool with tea bags in water to make very strong tea. 2 Fill a tall glass with ice. Add 1 1/2 oz gin, 2 oz cooled hibiscus tea, 1/2 oz lemon juice and 1/2 oz simple syrup (recipe follows). Top with 2 to 3 oz sparkling water and stir gently to mix. Garnish with a basil sprig, if desired. Makes 1 drink

SIMPLE SYRUP

CHAMOMILE COSMO We have championed the use of chamomile tea in cocktails for many years. The honey and apple flavour is mild and delicate, so it needs to be treated with a deft hand to avoid overwhelming the subtle taste. This variation on a Cosmo swaps tea for cranberry, and honey for orange liqueur, creating a wonderful and sophisticated cocktail.

Bring 1 cup (250 mL) water to a boil and stir in 1 cup (250 mL) sugar until dissolved. Pour into jar and let cool. If storing, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

1 To a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1 1/2 oz vodka, 2 oz Chilled Chamomile Tea (recipe next page), 1/2 oz lime juice and 1/4 oz Honey Syrup (recipe next page). Stir until icecold and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with fresh dill.

Makes 1 1/2 cups (375 mL)

Makes 1 drink

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

CHILLED CHAMOMILE TEA To a small saucepan, add 2 cups (500 mL) water and 1/2 cup (125 mL) dried chamomile flowers (or 4 chamomile tea bags). Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let cool completely. Remove solids and refrigerate tea, covered, for up to 2 weeks. Makes enough for 8 cocktails

HONEY SYRUP In a heatproof container, combine 1/4 cup (60 mL) runny honey and 2 tbsp (30 mL) boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Let cool and refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 weeks.

Recipe Index The following is a listing of the recipes contained in this issue. For recipes from previous issues, visit lcbo.com/foodanddrink. APPETIZERS & SALADS Fiddlehead & Prosciutto Pinwheels Greek-Style Spot Prawn Cocktail Halibut Koftesi & Dilled Fava Spread Lamb & Spiced Peanut Sauce Little Gem Hand Salad Simple Cucumber Salad Summer Crostini White Bean Salad

136 104 129 128 130 131 128 132

MAIN COURSES Makes enough for 8 cocktails

CARDAMOM APRICOT SOUR Cardamom is a highly fragrant pod that is used widely in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine (it’s a key ingredient in garam masala). Because you can get flavour from both the shell and the seeds, we use the whole pods when we make our Cardamom-Ginger Syrup. For an added burst of flavour, we also crush up some of the seeds to sprinkle on top of this delicious Sour. 1 To a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1 1/2 oz Canadian whisky, 3 oz apricot juice or nectar, 1/2 oz lime juice, 1/2 oz CardamomGinger Syrup (recipe follows) and 1/2 oz egg whites. Shake sharply and strain into a cocktail glass. Add pinch of crushed cardamom seeds (see TIP). Makes 1 drink

TIP Break open several cardamom pods (they crack easily, much like sunflower seeds) and remove the seeds. Crush with a pestle.

Cardamom-Ginger Syrup To a saucepan, add 1 cup (250 mL) water, 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) cardamom pods, lightly crushed, and 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh ginger. Bring to a boil. Add 1 cup (250 mL) sugar and stir to dissolve. Remove from heat and let cool. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks. Remove cardamom and ginger after 4 to 5 days. Makes enough for 16 cocktails

FOOD & DRINK

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

Beer & Bacon Mussels with Toasted Garlic Crumbs Citrus Butter Crab with Ricotta Gnudi Creamy Chicken Galette with Ramps & Morels Garlic Scape & Lardon Carbonara Grilled “Pizza al Tonno” with Tomato & Herb Salad Grilled Radish & Shrimp Tacos Korean-Style Grilled Cheese Lobster Mango-Ginger Crispy Beef Miso Pork & Japanese Eggplant Skewers Wine Can Cornish Hens with Parsley, Honey & Pecans Wine Can Cornish Hens with Sumac & Pomegranate Molasses

SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM

Avocado & Key Lime Pie Homemade Pizza Dough Lemon Lavender Bars Milk Bread Muhammara (Red Pepper Paste) New-Style Rhubarb Crisp Strawberry & Chamomile Parfait Tostones Turkish Olive Tapenade

54 132 138 130 124 136 56 122 131

106 108 134 135 132 135 127 134 131 132 131

COCKTAILS & MIXERS The Barista Butterfly Pea Flower Tea Butterfly Pea Lemonade The Caesar Cardamom Apricot Sour Cardamom-Ginger Syrup Chamomile Cosmo Chilled Chamomile Tea Cucumber Limeade The Frozen Habitant Hibiscus Collins Honey Syrup Pickled Gibson Prosecco Bar Rhubarb Lemonade Simple Syrup Stockholm Spritz Strawberry Purée Tropical White Whisky Punch Strawberry Pimm’s Cup

DESSERTS, BAKED GOODS & CONDIMENTS

137 138 138 96 139 139 138 139 130 127 138 139 137 130 130 138 137 130 128 129

Source Resource Items photographed, but not listed, are from personal collections. PATIO PERFECTION Pages 66 & 67 Bamboo day bed and hanging chair, from Casa Chic Home, shopcasachic.ca Page 66 Throw cushions, from The Pillow Shoppe, thepillowshoppe.ca Page 67 MAKE IT PERSONAL Custom napkins, from Linen is Love, etsy.com/shop/linenislove. Custom paper coasters, from Print Fast, printfast.ca. Custom ice stamp, from Stamptitude, stamptitude.com.

PRETTY, PLEASE Page 76 Camille long stem wine glass, from Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.ca. Page 77 RIMS martini glass, from Cocktail Emporium, cocktailemporium.com. Page 79 Copeland cocktail glass, from CB2, cb2.ca.

TOPS IN HOPS Pages 111 to 118 All glassware, from Cocktail Emporium.

139

ONTARIO MAKERS

Bespoke blooms Stunning handmade paper flowers to order online or DIY kits to make your own at home. By Brenda Morrison | photography by vince noguchi

BOUQ Paper Flowers

THE ART OF FLOWER MAKING

Based in King City, Ont., artist and entrepreneur Catherine Oxley specializes in handmade paper botanicals. Her spectacular flowers can be seen in magazine features and retail advertising, and have avid fans and collectors around the world. While an individual paper flower (from $50) is a decidedly decadent indulgence, it’s a sustainable alternative to fresh-cut flowers, especially off-season, and exotic imported ones. It’s also a unique way to have a long-lasting replica of a cherished bloom from a special bouquet.

Oxley’s paper flowers are so lifelike and crafted with such fine detail that they often require a double take for one to realize they aren’t real. Using premium Italian and German crepe paper, her intricate process for making a flower involves various techniques to hand-cut and colour each delicate petal. She then meticulously shapes them with ruffles and curls, and finally layers the petals into a realistic blossom with striking foliage.

140

FROM THE STUDIO

MAKE YOUR OWN

Her online selection continues to grow, with favourites like dahlias, peonies, roses and orchids. Choose a single made-to-order stem—pop a showstopper in a bud vase or protect it under a glass cloche—or splurge with a magnificent bouquet. Custom commissions allow you to specify the colour, size and style for blooms that match anything from a bridal gown to wallpaper.

An instant hit with people looking for new hobbies or splendid gifts, BOUQ Studio Boxes (from $75) were recently launched. These eco-friendly paper flower kits contain the very same materials and tools Oxley uses, along with access to detailed video tutorials to guide you through each step of the process.

Paper flowers are a hot trend for weddings and are a traditional gift for first anniversaries.

Take your pick of ready-made flowers and make-your-own kits at bouqpaperflowers.com.

EARLY SUMMER 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

Energize your taste buds. Introducing the all-new TUCSON.

Discover the all-new TUCSON. Completely redesigned, the dynamic lines and bold grille hint to the capability you will find behind the wheel with available HTRAC™ All-Wheel Drive. The interior is equally exceptional in both its style and functionality, featuring standard Apple CarPlay™∆ and Android Auto™◊ to keep you connected and an impressive available 10.25" touch-screen with a navigation system to guide your way. Plus, for the first-time ever, the all-new TUCSON offers both hybrid and plug-in hybrid powertrain options. The all-new TUCSON has arrived. Test drive one today.

hyundaicanada.com

™/®The Hyundai name, logos, product names, feature names, images and slogans are trademarks owned or licensed by Hyundai Auto Canada Corp. All other trademarks and trade names are those of their respective owners. Apple CarPlay™ may not be available on all devices and may not be available in all countries or regions. Visit www.apple.com for further details and any applicable limitations. Apple and Apple CarPlay are trademarks of Apple Inc.. Android Auto™ may not be available on all devices and may not be available in all countries or regions. Visit www.android.com for further details and any applicable limitations. Android and Android Auto are trademarks of Google Inc.. Pre-production model shown, may not be exactly as shown. Vehicle is shown with optional accessories. Equipment shown is not included. ∆ ◊