FD - Fall 2021 by Lawrence Ambrocio

AUTUMN 2021

The Autumn Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF

Our heart, our soul, our passion lives here in Ontario. For almost 50 years, we’ve been learning and growing with our land, unlocking its secrets to craft world class wines. And the world is taking notice. Ontario VQA wines are winning prestigious awards and earning international acclaim. We’re on the cutting edge of the cool climate wine scene. It all starts right here. Using only 100% Ontario-grown grapes to make something truly unforgettable. Unmistakable. That means every bottle of VQA wine is something to be proud of. So raise a glass and join us in shaping the next generation of wine.

www.winecountryontario.ca

Please enjoy responsibly.

PAELLA TO POZOLE. PIZZA TO POUTINE. AND WINES FOR EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

California Wines. As alive as the place they’re grown.

Shawarma, schnitzel and stroganoff. Curry, couscous and cassoulet. Whether you like your food tangy or tart, ﬁery or fruity, creamy or crunchy, there’s a California wine that’s sure to make you happy as a clam. If you hate clams feel free to substitute your favourite mollusk. We’re easy.

@CaliforniaWinesCanada @California.Wines.Canada

discovercaliforniawines.com sustainablewinegrowing.org

THE PRISONER CABERNET SAUVIGNON $79.95 LCBO 20723 NEW LAUNCH SEPT 18TH SUSTAINABLE

LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY $29.95 now $27.95

MÉNAGE À TROIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON $17.95 now $15.95

from Oct 11 to Nov 7

from Sept 13 – Oct 10 LCBO 17747 2021 Green Medal Business SUSTAINABLE

LCBO 962886 92pts Anthony Dias Blue

TRIBUTE CABERNET SAUVIGNON $19.95 now $16.95 from Sept 13 – Oct 10 LCBO 20807 92pts The Tasting Panel 90pts Wine Enthusiast SUSTAINABLE

Aromas of black cherry and ripe plum are layered with vanilla and baking spice. Concentrated dark fruit ﬂavours culminate in a lush, full mouthfeel and a lengthy ﬁnish.

Aromas of meyer lemon, gala apple and subtle hints of oak are followed by ﬂavours of white stone fruit, yellow plum and honeydew melon.

SAND POINT CABERNET SAUVIGNON

JOSH CELLARS CHARDONNAY $18.95 now $16.95

$16.95

from Sept 13 – Oct 10

LCBO 11193

LCBO 561100

SUSTAINABLE

Full bodied, yet smooth and mellow with richness and depth. The aroma and ﬂavours are a pleasing blend of ripe raspberries and fresh dark cherries.

Juicy cherries, blackberries and whispers of dark chocolate culminate in this elegantly smooth, seductive dry Cabernet Sauvignon.

Aromas of tropical fruits and citrus married with suble oak notes. This wine is a great balance of bright citrus and honey with hints of juicy peach.

Aromas and ﬂavours of cassis, blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum give way to earthy notes, tea, vanilla bean and shaved dark chocolate.

CAYMUS-SUISUN GRAND DURIF PETITE SIRAH $69.95 LCBO 15425 93pts KWG NEW LAUNCH SEPT 4TH FROM THE WAGNER FAMILY

A hint of pomace, vanilla and ﬂoral potpourri adds freshness to the nose, while the wood on this wine cradles but never deﬁnes the fruit.

Look for this logo for wines crafted sustainably from 85% or more grapes from certiﬁed sustainable vineyards. Product of California

PIRITS TL S CO

M TI

2 021

NEW

TIO

ol Mixer of

Made using the finest naturally sourced ingredients including a blend of gingers from Nigeria, the Ivory Coast & Cochin; individually crafted to enhance the world’s finest spirits.

@fevertreecanada | #mixwiththebest Where to buy & cocktail ideas visit: fever-tree.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features

Spice It Up! 88 Spice It Up!

By Victoria Walsh Kick up the heat with a roster of seasonal cocktails aglow with warm, spicy flavours. 94 Wine and Dine

By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Classic techniques and delectable recipes—all you need to know about cooking with wine. 100 Afternoon Delights

By Lindsay Guscott Make the most of autumn’s last warm days with a casual alfresco lunch menu everyone will love. 108 A Guide to Cider

By Crystal & Tara Luxmore Cider has gone from niche to necessity—discover the many styles and how excellent they are with food. 116 Crushing on Garlic

By Eric Vellend Roasted or raw, recipes that celebrate the glorious versatility of the stinking rose.

ON THE COVER Squash Tart with Garlic Confit, Gruyère & Rosemary, recipe on page 174. Photography by James Tse.

FOOD & DRINK

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments

Market Share

FOOD 47 SEASONAL

141 QUICK & EASY

MARKET SHARE By Monda Rosenberg with Renée S. Suen & Victoria Walsh

READY, SET, CHILL! By Michael Elliott

A fabulous non-traditional Thanksgiving menu makes the most of local farmers’ markets.

Built to last, these simple make-ahead salads are go-to sides all week long. 155 BASICS

BATCH WORK By Jennifer MacKenzie

65 FLAVOURS

STEW AND IMPROVED By Eric Vellend Hearty vegetarian stews satisfy every appetite—no meat required!

How-to, tips, tools and recipes for preserving fresh fall fruits and vegetables.

79 TWISTS

THREE OF A KIND By Amy Rosen Top Niagara chefs share their favourite ways of cooking and serving a roast chicken.

DRINK 57 LOCAL

123 TRENDSETTERS

IN GOOD COMPANY By James Chatto

LEADERS OF THE PACK By Victoria Walsh

Ontario wineries are working harder than ever for the environment and the community.

Meet the inspiring women and men who set the trends and lead the way in Ontario’s hospitality industry. 135 101

71 GIFTING

GIVE AND TAKE By Charlene Rooke Discover great new products and old favourites to give (or try) all through the season.

Get the lowdown on Italy’s much-loved and surprisingly versatile bitters. 147 ORIGINS

WHISKY BUSINESS By Jessica Huras

135 In every issue

THAT’S AMARO! By Christine Sismondo

Hone your knowledge and mixology skills with three classic whisky cocktails.

EDITOR’S NOTES

25 INSIDE SCOOP

183 RECIPE INDEX 183 Source Resource

By Eric Vellend

184

The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.

A SPLASH OF WHISKY By Michelle Lucas Larving

the back page

Underappreciated in the kitchen, rye whisky enhances a banana pudding.

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Coming next issue Available November 10 Superstar desserts Fabulous festive showstoppers Deluxe mixology Add glamour to your Christmas cocktails Off to a dazzling start A host of delectable new appetizers Holiday roasts The best cuts and sides—plus ideas for leftovers

Chief Marketing and Digital Officer, LCBO Vanda Provato Editor Jody Dunn Art Directors Karen Lim Cathy Cicchini Drinks Editor Charlene Rooke Food Editor Eric Vellend Content Editors Suresh Doss Victoria Walsh Publication Coordinator Leslie Bolter Graphic Designers Dominique Patafio Pat Turbach Production Coordinator Judy Haverkort

Publication Assistant Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant Everton Smith

Many of the products featured in this issue are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.

Food Stylists Lindsay Guscott, Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge, Dara Sutin

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy, please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291.

Prop Stylists Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Shelly Shnier, Genevieve Wiseman

Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 29, Number 1.

Contributors James Chatto, Flannery Dean, Michael Elliott, Lisa Fielding, Lindsay Guscott, Jessica Huras, Michelle Lucas Larving, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Jennifer MacKenzie, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christine Sismondo, Michele Sponagle, Renée S. Suen, Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic Publisher Wayne Leek

All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement.

Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink, 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4 ISSN 1195-5988 Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores. Prices are subject to change without notice. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Advertising Sales Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services kirby@beachesmediaservices.com

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FOOD & DRINK

NEw MATCHA CREAM LIQUOR

THE DISTINCTIVE TASTE OF MATCHA WITH AN INDULGENT CREAM FINISH.

C FFEE Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. www.pmacanada.com

TEA?

From the makers of TIA MARIA COLD BREW COFFEE LIQUOR

LCBO NOTES

Dear friends, As summer eases into fall, we remain grateful for the ability to socialize safely again, going out with friends and family and entertaining more often at home. It is the time of year when the LCBO always pays special attention to Ontario—this year more than ever, as local businesses gather momentum after the trials of the last 18 months. A key part of the LCBO’s mandate is to have a positive impact on the province and our local producers, and this fall we are doing that in several different ways. First, I am excited to introduce our new fall campaign: For the Love of Local. This is an opportunity for all our neighbours—everyone from LCBO experts to local entrepreneurs, new Ontarians and people whose families have lived here for generations—to share their personal knowledge of the region they call home. We will be asking them to pick favourites from the array of 450 VQA wines the LCBO carries, while we also feature a different Ontario wine region each week on social media, highlighting its wineries and the great varietal wines each area produces. You can find out more, and check out our VQA product map, at LCBO.com. Meanwhile, we are continuing our partnership with the United Way with a fundraising campaign to support local communities through COVID-19. Last year, we raised over $2.5 million; this fall, thanks to your generosity, we are committed to strengthening our impact. Another new program we are launching is the Spirit of Inclusion

Initiative, specifically designed to create opportunities for diverse women to enter, advance and thrive in the beverage alcohol industry. For our first year, we are providing scholarships and bursaries to those registered in Niagara College’s various beverage alcohol programs, offering financial support for tuition, childcare and transportation costs, as well as support through a mentorship program. At Brock University, we are establishing a research scholar position to study industry diversity in Ontario and the barriers diverse women sometimes face in their careers. We are also providing mobility bursaries to assist students who are studying wine management at Brock complete a double degree through the university’s partnership with Burgundy School of Business in France. In years to come, we will be scaling up the Spirit of Inclusion Initiative to reach students and professionals across Ontario. All this happens because of the Good Partnerships between the LCBO and the province’s post-secondary institutions, charitable organizations and trade partners. To me, that underlines one of the lessons of the pandemic: that we are at our best when we pull together as a community and support every one of our neighbours. Wishing you a healthy and happy fall season.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

From our President & CEO

Coming soon to LCBO. Earn Aeroplan points for shopping at LCBO. Visit lcbo.com to learn more.

George Soleas President & CEO, LCBO

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FOOD & DRINK

PAIRS BEAUTIFULLY WITH FALL. Celebrate the tastes of the season with Black River Cheese. Crafted from the finest of local ingredients, for the finest of occasions. Exceptional on their own, and the cornerstone of inspired flavour pairings. Discover our pairing suggestions at blackrivercheese.com.

EDITOR’S NOTES

Fingers crossed that the socializing we enjoyed this summer will continue to pick up momentum as we head into fall. It still feels novel and exciting to get together again with friends and family, and I hope all our calendars are full every weekend—especially over Thanksgiving! If you’re looking for inspiration for your gatherings, this issue is full of ideas to make the most of every kind of occasion. First, though, we would be remiss if we didn’t raise a toast to those who have weathered the storm and stayed the course through the pandemic. In Leaders of the Pack, on page 123, we shine a spotlight on the men and women who continue to set the trends in Ontario’s hospitality and beverage industry—each one of them worthy of your attention. And on page 57 we focus on Ontario winemakers and all that they are doing for the environment and their communities. Autumn is tailor-made for savoury cocktails. Ranging from classic whisky cocktails (with some twists to freshen them up) on page 147 to a collection of deeply flavoured seasonal drinks with a spicy kick (page 88)—there are so many options you’ll be able to greet your guests with something new right up until Christmas. And if you’ve heard of Amaro, but aren’t exactly sure how to use it, Christine Sismondo

breaks the whole subject down on page 135 (spoiler alert—it’s great both before or after Thanksgiving dinner). Of course, autumn is also the season for fabulous local produce. Farmer’s markets are in their glory and we’ve designed a menu starting on page 47 that takes full advantage of what’s fresh right now. It’s a unique twist on the Thanksgiving feast—remember, we want to try new things—perfectly paired with all-local drinks. Speaking of local, don’t miss three Niagara chefs each sharing their own delicious version of roast chicken (page 79): what could be more perfect for your next Sunday dinner? And, in the spirit of back to school, we challenge you to master the art of cooking with wine on page 94. We’ve honed in on the techniques you need to know and what wines to cook with, then bundled that knowledge into delectable seasonal recipes to test your skills. As we all settle back into the routines of fall and embrace the cooler days and cozy evenings, we hope this issue of Food & Drink is something you turn to again and again when making new memories with your family and friends.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE

Cheers to a new season!

Did you know? You can access digital issues back to 2015 at lcbo.com/ foodandrink and get first access to new issue releases by signing up for mylcbo emails at mylcbo.com.

@lcbofoodanddrink

lcbofoodanddrink

LCBO

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FOOD & DRINK

30 YEARS AGO, A STAR WAS BORN Three decades ago, a pioneer burst onto the world’s wine stage. Since the very beginning, Trius Red quickly captured the attention of wine critics across the globe. With a Best Red Wine in the World win and 30 vintages later this Canadian icon continues to prove its star status has serious staying power.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

GO GREEN, GO LOCAL Ontario VQA wines have it all Fall is the ideal time to show your love for Ontario’s bounty of incredible wines grown in environmentally conscious and socially responsible ways. That love for local should start with Ontario VQA – wines made from 100% Ontario-grown grapes and crafted right in our own backyard. Thirteen VQA Ontario winemakers have levelled up their eco-friendly practices and been designated Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified. These wineries have committed to sustainable winemaking practices like conserving water and energy and reducing waste. They also protect the health and well-being of their communities by being good neighbours and pursuing socially responsible initiatives and employment practices. Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc VQA

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Old Vines VQA

Ontario VQA wineries, it’s a way of life rooted in respect for

Light & Crisp

home. Show your support for wines that go the extra mile by

391300 l 750 mL l $15.95

Full-bodied & Smooth 459966 l 750 mL l $19.95

bringing eco-friendly VQA wines home this fall that are desig-

A customer favourite thanks to its lime and gooseberry aromas and passion fruit and peach flavours.

Big and bold, this complex red features coffee, plum and spice notes. Perfect for steak night!

Sustainability isn’t just a method or a process for these

nated Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified.

37986

It’s wine you can feel good about. Cheers to Ontario VQA wines.

LOOK FOR THIS LOGO

Pelee Island Pinot Noir VQA

Cave Spring Dry Rosé

Light-bodied & Fruity 135939 l 750 mL l $14.95

Medium-bodied & Dry 295006 l 750 mL l $15.95

Soft cherry notes mingle with a touch of spice and dark chocolate in this elegant red.

This crisp salmon-pink rosé boasts strawberry and melon aromas and fresh citrusy flavours.

VQA

Strewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged VQA

Reif Estate Vidal Icewine VQA

Flat Rock Twisted VQA

A VINTAGES ESSENTIAL*

Aromatic & Flavourful

Lusciously Sweet 544791 l 200 mL l $24.95

1578 l 750 mL l $17.95

Full-bodied & Rich 522730 l 750 mL l $14.95

Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay come together in this zesty blend that’s ideal for sipping.

This buttery Chardonnay delivers apple and oak aromas and flavours of vanilla and fig.

Ontario icewine is internationally renowned. This vibrant example offers peach and honey flavours.

A VINTAGES ESSENTIAL*

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice. *Vintages Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials

Presented by Nespresso

THE RECYCLING SOLUTION

From plantation to cup, Nespresso brings you topquality, sustainably grown coffee. Now a remarkable program closes the circle of sustainability, recycling everything from capsules to coffee grounds.

ALUMINUM CAPSULES Why use pure aluminum for our capsules? Because it protects the freshness and taste of our coffee from roaster to cup more effectively than any other material,. Our aluminum capsules seal out oxygen, light and humidity, all of which can affect the quality of coffee. And there’s more. Aluminum is 100-percent and infinitely recyclable. With our system, nothing is wasted. Nothing is thrown away.

CARBON NEUTRALITY All this is part of a bigger picture. Some years ago, we set out to achieve an ambitious goal – to make sure that every cup of Nespresso coffee is truly carbon neutral by 2022. We began by reducing carbon emissions, first in our business operations and now in our supply chain and product life cycle, and by investing in proven offsetting projects such as planting trees in coffee plantations and surrounding landscapes. Now, thanks to you, our customers, helping us to recycle capsules and grounds, we’re very nearly there!

RECYCLING PROGRAM Nespresso has created a unique program to retrieve your used capsules. Here in Ontario, every purchase of Nespresso capsules includes a free red bag. Fill it with your used capsules, then simply seal it and drop it into a Canada Post mailbox. Postage is fully prepaid. We’ll take it from there.

INNOVATION

COFFEE GROUNDS: Once that red bag arrives at the recycling facility, the coffee grounds are carefully separated from the used capsules, thanks to a mechanical process Nespresso has pioneered, the first of its kind in Canada. The grounds are then turned into rich compost which is delivered free to Canadian farms. Adding this valuable organic material to the soil improves aeration and encourages micro-organisms that benefit healthy plant growth.

ALUMINUM RECYCLING: Meanwhile, every used Nespresso capsule collected through the Nespresso recycling program is recycled. One of the great virtues of aluminum is that it can be used and reused an infinite number of times. In fact, an estimated 75% of all the aluminum ever produced is still in circulation today. We’ve set up local partnerships all over the world, repurposing our capsules to make things like pens or bicycle frames – and, of course, more capsules.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

LOCAL WINES FOR YOUR THANKSGIVING TABLE Thanksgiving meals tend to rely heavily on the same old classics. But what if you changed things up this year, with contemporary recipes and just the right wine pairing from fantastic Ontario wineries? Consider, for example, Trius Red. Its bold fruity flavours are excellent with rare roast beef on crostini, sliders with slow-roasted pork shoulder or thin slices of blackened lamb. Pelee Island Lola Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA has spice, mint and herbal notes that sing with a luxe charcuterie board outfitted with nuts, gourmet crackers, cured meats and cheeses. Cozy sipping by the outdoor fireplace calls for the rounded berry and plum flavours of the versatile Open Cab 2 Merlot VQA. And the bright and zesty Sandbanks Riesling VQA works equally well with turkey as it does with savoury vegetarian fare like roasted cauliflower and chickpeas. Make your harvest celebration memorable with a selection of delicious Ontario VQA wines and casual recipes. It may even become a new tradition!

Pelee Island Lola Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA 618223 l 750 mL l $14.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 9 g/L)

35077

Dark, dry and lively, this Cabernet Franc is ideally suited to the region’s sunny growing season. Savour its robust flavours of cedar and dark berries.

Sandbanks Riesling VQA 139022 l 750 mL l $14.95 Aromatic & Flavourful (D – 16 g/L)

This classic mediumbodied white from an acclaimed winery has floral, quince, grapefruit and even petrol tones that lead to a fresh citrusy finish.

Trius Red VQA 303800 l 750 mL l $24.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (XD – 4 g/L)

Inspired by Bordeaux vintages, thispremium fruity red blend has enticing floral, black-currant, chocolate, toasted nut and cedar notes.

Open Cab 2 Merlot VQA 134957 l 750 mL l $12.95 Medium-bodied & Fruity (D – 11 g/L)

Enjoy candied cherry, raspberry and plum, plus a hint of chocolate and spice aromas, all paired with a slight minerality, in this dry Ontario red.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.

NAME A BOLDER

DUO

Inside scoop The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. By Eric Vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by maya visnyei

Autumn is in the air, and we’ve got the Thanksgiving tips you need, including a handy stuffing chart, turkey-friendly reds and new uses for leftover canned pumpkin. If you’re stocking your bar, check out brand-new Prosecco Rosato, pastry-flavoured beers and a few spooky bottles for Halloween.

26 Say “cheese” 26 Light fixtures 26 Curry up 28 Drink pink 28 Stock options 28 Drinks that go “boo!” 30 Joy and grain 30 Shape of you 32 Barrel strength

32 Weeknight wonders 32 Who to follow 34 Good stuff 34 Chuseok 36 Smooth operator

36 Orange crush 36 Dessert storm

Orange crush

38 What to do with all those apples

FOOD & DRINK

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INSIDE SCOOP

FAUX BETTER

Say “cheese” SEASONAL SIPS

Light fixtures As summer’s heat gives way to the coolness of fall, it’s time to make the transition from crisp whites to light reds. Bersano Costalunga Barbera d’Asti DOCG (LCBO 348680, $14.80) from Piedmont, Italy, shows off Barbera’s electric acidity—it’s the perfect pour on pizza night. On Thanksgiving, it’s hard to go wrong with Pinot Noir. New Zealand’s Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir Marlborough (LCBO 146548, $19.95) is a fine example, with raspberry flavours and a touch of spice. Tart, juicy and refreshing, Malivoire Gamay VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 591313, $19.95) is about as light as red wine gets. Gently chill it and serve with burgers.

THE TAKEAWAY

Curry up The bold spices and slow-cooked dishes of Indian cuisine make it an irresistible takeout option in fall. It’s more commonly paired with aromatic whites such as Gewürztraminer or off-dry Riesling, but if you’re a red wine drinker, try it with Featherstone Cabernet Franc VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 64618, $19.95). This complex Ontario red is especially good with anything charred in a tandoor oven, and its floral profile is terrific with vegetable dishes.

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SEE SOURCE RESOURCE; PORTRAIT BY DARIUS BASHAR

While the quality of plant-based cheese substitutes has grown by leaps and bounds, many of them don’t melt like the real thing. Enter VEGCHEESE, a Vaughn, Ont.based company founded by Lori Sroujian, which makes a lovely mozzarella proxy that’s perfect for pizza and hot panini. And if you’re vegan and crave poutine, the company also makes curds that soften while holding their shape. Its “cheeses” are all nut- and gluten-free, and can be ordered directly from vegcheese.com.

CERTAIN THINGS NEVER GET PUT AWAY.

Make any meal unforgettable with Le Creuset. Vancouver · Edmonton · Calgary · Winnipeg · Toronto · Montréal · Québec · Halifax

LeCreuset.ca

INSIDE SCOOP WHAT’S NEW

KITCHEN HACK

Drink pink

Stock options

For the longest time, the strict Prosecco DOC Consortium forbade its wineries from making a pink version of the beloved sparkler. Finally— ﬁnally!—Prosecco Rosato is now a thing, with Pinot Noir giving the wine its beautiful blush. For more information, including what’s available now at the LCBO, turn to page 84.

Homemade vegetable stock is an important building block of plant-based cooking, especially in fall. Here are three umami-rich additions to take it to the next level.

Casillero del Diablo Reserva Devil’s Collection Red LCBO 436956, $15.95

KOMBU NATION For every 4 cups (1 L) of water, soak a handsize piece of dried kombu for 30 minutes. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat and strain over the vegetables for your stock.

CAP IT Add a few dried shiitake mushrooms to the pot to create a deep, woodsy ﬂavour. Fish them out at the end, squeeze dry and save for soups or stir-fries.

Lake of Bays Pumpkin Ale LCBO 480012, 473 mL, $3.95

Notaboo E.T. 51 Premium Vodka LCBO 548362, $41.95

SEASONAL SIPS

Drinks that go “boo!” If you’re deciding what to pour on Halloween, here are three options to bring spooky spirit to your glass while adding to the haunted décor.

SCRAP GOLD When making fresh tomato sauce, save the skins and seeds, and freeze in small containers. They will add ﬂavour, colour and the gentlest hint of acidity to your stock.

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FOOD & DRINK

NEW

VELVET CREAM LIQUOR REF R ES HINGLY S M OOTH WITH TH E U NM IS TAKAB LE TA STE OF DIS AR ON NO

perfect over ice.

Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. www.pmacanada.com

INSIDE SCOOP WINE SCHOOL

Shape of you A short guide to five common wine bottle shapes. Bordeaux The most popular shape on the planet, this bottle is commonly used for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and signature blends. Some believe the broad shoulders are for trapping sediment from aged wines, but the bottle was most likely designed to differentiate it from Burgundy.

Burgundy The reason for this shape? It was easy to make back when bottles were hand-blown. It’s almost always used for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (Burgundy’s signature grapes), plus light-bodied reds such as Gamay and barrel-aged whites.

Alsace

Joy and grain A Toronto-based bakery is upcycling a by-product of the brewing industry with delicious results. To make beer, brewers first cook up a huge vat of watery porridge and then filter the liquid from the solids. The liquid is fermented into beer, and the solids are called “spent grains.” The dilemma is what to do with this by-product. Some of Ontario’s craft brewers ship their spent grains to farmers for animal feed and compost. Toronto’s Henderson Brewing, however, sends a portion to the bakery next door. Dihan Chandra (above), founder of The Spent Goods Company (spentgoods.ca), says they use Henderson’s leftover grains

as an ingredient in their popular beer bagels, pretzels and breads. “We help divert tonnes of product that would otherwise go to landfills. The grains retain high protein and fibre, so we upcycle them into our products for added flavour and texture.” Home cooks and brew pubs have also gotten creative, incorporating spent grains into granola, pizza dough and even dog biscuits. If you’re curious, ask your local brewery if they can spare a bag. Call ahead, and make sure to buy some beer too! – Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic

Sparkling The gently sloping shoulders, deep punt (the recess on the bottom) and heavy glass all contribute to the bottle’s strength, which is needed to resist the pressure of the gas trapped in the wine.

Dessert This slim bottle (200 or 375 mL) is for icewine and other dessert wines, since they are consumed in small pours after a meal.

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IMAGES BY SARAH WIGGINS

TRENDSPOTTING

Also known as Mosel, this svelte number is synonymous with Riesling, though you can find it holding other Alsatian varietals, including Gewürztraminer and Sylvaner. The sleek bottle was designed to fill the hulls of riverboats, which shipped them along the Rhine.

INSIDE SCOOP

Weeknight wonders If you filled your fridge with market veggies and need some weeknight inspiration, look no further than the Food & Drink recipe archive. There’s the quick, inexpensive Daikon Radish Stir-Fry with Shiitakes, Carrot & Slivered Pork, flavoured with ginger, garlic and soy. You can make fish and two sides on one sheet pan with the colourful Mustard-Crumb Salmon with Sweet & Sour Cabbage and Roast Potatoes. Finally, on Meatless Mondays, try our Simple Spicy Soba Noodle Soup, a ramen-style bowl that can be pulled off in less than 20 minutes.

TRENDSPOTTING

Barrel strength

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Find the recipes at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Who to follow: @everything delish Whether it’s on TikTok (where she has 1.5 million followers and counting!) or Instagram (a more modest 341 K), Toronto’s Jamie Milne is a social media sensation. The food and travel blogger focuses her talents on hyperspeed cooking demos of fun, easy, delicious recipes like One-Pot Spicy Vodka Pasta and French Onion Grilled Cheese. Give her a follow and watch the wow factor dazzle your dinner table.

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IMAGE BY JAMIE MILNE

If you like generously oaked red wine, then there is a new style that’s right up your alley. Some wineries—mostly in Australia and California—are partially aging select reds in barrels that once contained spirits. A portion of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Rum Barrels Merlot (LCBO 13734, $19.95) is aged in used rum casks, lending flavours of honey, vanilla and chocolate. Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO 22197, $20.95) is finished in Irish whiskey barrels, which gives it notes of caramel and olive.

INSIDE SCOOP DINNER’S READY

Good stuff Whether you bake it in a pan or inside the bird, stuffing is a key player on the Thanksgiving table. The recipe follows a basic formula: Bread, preferably stale, is cubed and left to dry on a tray; aromatic vegetables are diced and sautéed; handfuls of herbs are chopped; and then everything is mixed and moistened with poultry or vegetable stock. Using this chart as a guide, stuff your guests this Thanksgiving.

Veg

HerbS

extras

CLASSIC

Bread

Chuseok Held this year from September 20 to 22, Chuseok is one of the most important holidays in the Korean calendar. To learn more, we sat down with Michelle Lee (left), whose family runs Toronto’s popular Kimchi Korea House restaurant (kimchikoreahouse.ca). How would you best explain Chuseok to a non-Korean?

Onions, celery

Celery leaves, sage, parsley

None

CORNBREAD

White

It’s a three-day holiday starting on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar, when we celebrate the abundance of the year’s harvest and pay tribute to our ancestors. In North America, it’s sometimes referred to as “Korean Thanksgiving” because families travel long distances to gather, share a large feast and exchange presents. What are a few rituals of Chuseok?

Onions, garlic, fennel

Fennel fronds, thyme

Italian sausage

CHESTNUT

Cornbread

Visiting the graves of ancestors and paying tribute by tidying the gravesite and setting out fresh fruit as a ritual offering. Preparing and eating a large feast of Korean food—it should be a truly excessive number of dishes meant to reflect the abundant harvest. What is the most important food eaten during Chuseok?

Leeks, celery

Rosemary

Chestnuts, apples

GLUTENFREE

Sourdough

Songpyeon! They’re small rice dumplings filled with a sweet red bean or sesame seed filling and then steamed on top of pine needles. They are typically eaten on the eve of Chuseok.

Shallots, squash

Thyme, parsley

Pepitas, dried cranberries

BAKE EFFECT Baking stuffing outside the turkey allows the bird to cook quicker and more evenly. Bonus: You get some crispy bits!

Most Korean families in Canada likely don’t have a large extended family here, nor are their ancestors buried here, so Chuseok is generally celebrated on a smaller scale. For me, I focus on the food. Preparing and eating traditional Chuseok dishes helps me feel connected to family back in Korea, even if we can’t be physically together.

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FOOD & DRINK

PORTRAIT BY BETTY SHIN BINON

How do Chuseok celebrations diﬀer in Canada compared to Korea?

Gluten-free white

TRADITIONS

$3 OFF PER BOTTLE SEPTEMBER 13TH – OCTOBER 10TH

Bold Flavours, Strong Bonds

™

INSIDE SCOOP KITCHEN HACK

SHOULD I BUY?

Smooth operator

Orange crush

Leftover canned pumpkin is a common casualty of fall baking. So it doesn’t get forgotten in the back of your fridge, here are some ways to use up the silkysmooth purée.

Since hundreds of cocktails call for orange bitters, there are many brands to choose from. One stands out among the best, and it’s made in Niagara Falls, Ont. The brainchild of Andrew Gizzie, Stir Crazy orange bitters is well-balanced, with natural orange flavour and spicy complexity. (Since it comes with a dropper, use 10 drops for every dash.) In addition to drinks, try adding a few dashes to citrus cakes, salad dressings and even buttered popcorn. Stir Crazy Spirited Orange Bitters, 120 mL, $25, stir-crazy-bitters.myshopify.com

Pumpkin porridge Stir it into your morning oatmeal, and top with maple syrup, roasted pecans and cinnamon.

Your favourite cookie in beer form!

Autumn dip Whiz it with hummus in a food processor with a squeeze of lemon and pinch of allspice.

TRENDSPOTTING

Dessert storm Nice rice Fold it into risotto with plenty of Parm, and top with crushed amaretti cookies and fried sage.

Local brewers are increasingly looking to the pastry shop for inspiration, creating unique beers that can double as dessert. In Gravenhurst, Ont., the iconic marshmallow puff cookie is the muse for Sawdust City Viva la Stout (LCBO 17397, 473 mL, $4.35). Flavours of raspberry, graham cracker and vanilla combine with the natural cocoa character of stout for a truly memorable brew. In the Ottawa area, Whitewater Brewing and BeaverTails collaborated on the sweet, malty Whitewater Killaloe Sunrise (LCBO 22257, 473 mL, $3.95). This new amber ale is accented with brown sugar and cinnamon, which masterfully mimic the great Canadian pastry.

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FOOD & DRINK

INSIDE SCOOP 4 things

Sweet or savoury

What to do with all those apples

Sliced very thinly and slow-baked, these delicate apple chips are an irresistible—and healthy— snack. Whether you choose the sweetly spiced or savoury thyme-and-pepper version, they’re superb with nippy Ontario cheddar and a glass of local cider.

Ontario apples are the best in the world! Here are four great ways to enjoy the pick of the crop.

Crisp ice cream! A hint of cinnamon enhances the flavour of ripe, juicy apples in a bake-ahead crisp that then gets stirred into luscious homemade vanilla ice cream. A super-easy dessert that’s both homey and decadent.

The showstopper

Infusing whisky with apple and star anise pays double dividends—a fabulous and versatile liqueur that’s perfect for cocktails, and spirited fruit you can use in all sorts of sophisticated ways.

Find these recipes at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

Whisky apples

This scrumptious apple tarte tatin hides a savoury secret—turkey sausage and fresh sage leaves that transform it from a dessert into a main course. Make it the centrepiece for a brunch or lunchtime spread paired with an off-dry Riesling. Unforgettable!

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FOOD & DRINK

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Here’s to infusing Ontario with opportunity. Through Spirit of Sustainability, the LCBO is committed to enhancing industry diversity. That’s why we created the Spirit of Inclusion Initiative, a program designed to create opportunities for diverse women to enter, advance and thrive in the beverage alcohol industry. Together with our impact partners, the program will provide bursaries and scholarships, facilitate mentorship relationships, and identify paid co-op placements for diverse women who are looking to begin or advance their careers in the winery, brewery, and distillery fields.

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The LCBO is committed to advancing equitable representation for the good of Ontario.

$17 solution. Great-value wines. THIS IS VINTAGES

Biodynamic farming techniques combine with ideal soil and temperatures to create this exceptional-value wine. Bursting with ripe currants, blackberries and earth tones, it’s perfect for shiitake mushroom burgers. PIEDRA NEGRA ALTA COLECCIÓN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina 19287 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Firm 93 points (jamessuckling.com) 4 Organic product

The grapes for this sleek, intense blend were hand-picked and vinified separately. It’s floral, with juicy red fruit and food-friendly acidity. Superb with lamb stew. GORU GOLD MONASTRELL/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON/ SYRAH 2017 DOP Jumilla, Spain (Ego Bodegas) 13621 (XD) 750 mL $17.00 2 Full-bodied & Firm 93 points (winespectator.com)

Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.

35218

$17 SOLUTION. AVAILABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE SEPTEMBER 4, 2021.

Advertising Feature Hob Nob Pinot Noir 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 184069, $11.05 Ripe, juicy cherry is wreathed in smoky oak, flavours that linger delightfully in this mediumbodied, easydrinking Pinot Noir from the famous house of Georges DuBoeuf.

4BWPVS ǊF

South of France

Fat Bastard Syrah 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 563122, $14.80 Despite a big, complex nose of peppery pumpernickel, prunes and black olives, this dry Syrah is surprisingly light on its feet. Look for smoky cherries and fine tannins in the finish.

Delicious, accessible and fabulous value, the varietal wines of Pays d’Oc IGP pour sunshine into your glass CURVING AROUND the western Mediterranean from the Pyrenees to the Camargue, Languedoc-Roussillon is a land that’s in love with wine. The first vineyards were planted here 26 centuries ago but it was the generations of Cistercian monks in medieval times who did the hard work, meticulously noting down which grapes grew best in the countless different soils from the mountainsides to the sea. You could say that our wines are really the fruits of their labours. Today, 120,000 hectares of vineyards lie within the Pays d’Oc Protected Geographical Indication (IGP), a designation that guarantees quality and authenticity. With 58 different grape varieties to play with – all of which adore the sun-drenched South of France – winemakers here have the freedom to be remarkably creative. Their labels proudly name the varieties used, so you always know what to expect. And what might that be? Wines that are generous, sophisticated but unpretentious – a true expression of the relaxed Mediterranean joie de vivre. Whether red, white or rosé, the diversity of the wines of Pays d’Oc IGP is exceptional, but they all have one thing in common: a spectacular ratio of quality to affordability that adds even more to the pleasure they give.

J. P. Chenet Cabernet Syrah Organic 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 90472, $12.80 A best-selling love-match of two great red varieties dresses cherry and black currant in robes of swirling smoke, herbs and spices, liquorice and espresso. Try it with steak from the grill.

Laurent Miquel Pere Et Fils Chardonnay d’Oc 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 157909, $13.80 High-altitude vineyards let the Chardonnay grapes keep their vibrant tang and fresh pear and apple notes. Silky and mediumbodied, it’s a great match for fried chicken.

Marius Rouge 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 470096 $12.90 Rhône superstar Michel Chapoutier creates a muscular blend of Grenache and Syrah. Silky tannins and acidity give subtle structure to all the ripe, juicy fruit.

Philippe De Rothschild Merlot 2019 Pays d’Oc IGP LCBO 542332, 1500 mL, $23.15 The Rothschild Bordeaux roots are showing in the poised elegance of this seductive, fruit-forward red. The Pays d’Oc is the world’s leading producer of Merlot.

The vineyards of Languedoc-Roussillon touch the walls of the Roman citadel of Carcassonne and reach almost to the sea around the Gulf of Lions.

SEASONAL

SMOKED TROUT SALAD Recipe on page 182

Market share Tap into the abundance of the season and celebrate the goodness of farm-fresh ingredients with this unique Thanksgiving menu paired with local drinks. By Monda Rosenberg with Renée S. Suen & Victoria Walsh Photography by james tse

FOOD & DRINK

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Make shopping for Thanksgiving dinner this year as pleasurable as the feast. Armed with a list for our easy-to-make market-inspired meal, head to your local market and enjoy an open-air outing. With over 200 farmers’ markets in Ontario, there are lots to choose from. Besides the fun of the trip, you can be assured you are getting the freshest greens, the juiciest just-picked apples and pears, and even peak-of-season squash. Instead of a big bird, opt for our Turkey Tagine, bursting with autumn vegetables, which is much easier to pull off. We have a lot to be thankful for!

MARKET SHARE

ROASTED SQUASH & PARSNIP SOUP with STILTON TOASTS A bowl of this glorious autumn-hued soup is an impressive way to kick off any fall dinner. Parsnips are the secret ingredient in the best chicken soups, and they play a similar role here, lending nuanced flavour. 1 large butternut squash, about 2 1/2 lbs (1.13 kg) 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 3 parsnips, about 10 oz (285 g) total 4 cups (1 L) chicken broth (approx.), divided 1/2 tsp (2 mL) dried leaf thyme, crumbled 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt Stilton Toasts (recipe on p. 182)

1 Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). 2 Slice squash in quarters lengthwise. Place on a baking sheet. Scrape out and discard pulp and seeds. Rub cut surfaces with oil. Trim and peel parsnips. Slice in half lengthwise. Rub with oil. Tightly wrap in foil. Set beside squash. Roast for 1 hour. 3 Slice any dark brown areas from parsnips and discard. Place parsnips and 1/2 cup (125 mL) broth in food processor. Whirl until coarsely puréed. Remove skin and any dark areas from squash. Add squash, thyme, salt and another 1/2 cup (125 mL) broth to food processor. Pulse, then whirl until as smooth as you like. Whirl in as much remaining broth as container will hold. 4 Turn into a saucepan and stir in any remaining broth. If soup is thicker than you like, thin with more broth or water. Taste and add salt, if needed. Heat and serve with Stilton Toasts, either floating them on the soup or serving them on the side. Soup can be refrigerated for 3 days or frozen. Makes about 8 cups (2 L)

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FOOD & DRINK

MARKET SHARE

See TIPS on p. 182

TURKEY MARKET TAGINE My most lasting memory of the tagines I had in Morocco is their luxurious saffron-flavoured broth. In this tagine, the saffronspiked broth is a backdrop for peak-season market-fresh produce. The addition of turkey makes it a welcome departure from expected Thanksgiving fare. It’s best served over rice or couscous for soaking up all the precious broth. 3 small red onions 4 large carrots, peeled 1 large fennel bulb, about 1 lb (455 g) 2 lbs (905 g) skinless boneless turkey breast Olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) each cumin and sweet or smoked paprika, divided 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) salt, divided 1 cup (250 mL) chicken broth 1 tsp (5 mL) each ground coriander and cinnamon 1/2 tsp (2 mL) saffron threads

2 ripe pears, peeled 1 cup (250 mL) olives, such as Kalamata Cooked rice or couscous Freshly chopped mint or cilantro

1 Peel onions and trim root ends. Slice each onion through stem end into 6 wedges. Set aside. Slice carrots lengthwise in half or quarters, depending on their size, then into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. They should measure about 1 1/2 cups (375 mL). Turn into a big bowl. Trim fronds and thick stem end from fennel. Remove any tough outer layers. Slice fennel in half through stem end, then into 1/2-inch (1-cm) wedges. Cut wedges in half crosswise and separate layers. They should measure about 4 cups (1 L). Add to carrots. 2 Slice turkey into pieces, each about half the size of a chicken thigh. If any pieces are more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, slice in half or slash into the thick areas

and open up like a book. Brush pieces all over with oil and set on a plate. In a small bowl, stir 1 tsp (5 mL) each cumin and paprika with 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Sprinkle half over turkey. Brush to evenly distribute. Then turn turkey over and sprinkle with remaining mixture. Brush again. 3 Coat a large wide saucepan with oil. Set over medium heat. Fry turkey in batches, about 3 minutes a side, to lightly brown. Remove to a container, cover and refrigerate until vegetables have simmered 30 minutes. 4 Coat pan with more oil, if needed. Add onions and stir often over medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Pour in chicken broth. Scrape brown bits from bottom of pan. Increase heat to medium. Add carrots and fennel. In a small bowl, stir together remaining 1 tsp (5 mL) each cumin and paprika with coriander, cinnamon and remaining salt. Sprinkle over

vegetables while stirring. Cover, and when vegetables come to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5 Meanwhile, as soon as vegetables are simmering, sprinkle saffron into 1 cup (250 mL) hot, but not boiling, water and set aside to add to tagine later. 6 After vegetables have been simmering for 30 minutes, stir in turkey and collected juices. Cover and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until turkey is done, about 30 minutes. 7 Meanwhile, core pears and cut into chunks. When turkey is done, stir pears and olives into tagine. Pour in saffron water. Cover and simmer until pears are warm, about 5 minutes. Spoon over rice in individual bowls. Generously sprinkle with freshly chopped mint. Serves 6

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Our winemaking isn’t just about tradition.

The McManis Vineyards and Winery are Certified

It’s about looking ahead to make sure that

Sustainable, meeting the standards that safeguard

tomorrow’s vineyards are even better than

the quality of our environment, our community -

the ones we’re cultivating today.

and our wines. Now that’s a good pour.

Mindful. CER T IFIED SUS TAINABLE

•

V E G A N F R I E N D LY

A Vintages “Essential” always available at the LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. Represented in Ontario by The Vine. thevineagency.ca

FA M I LY V I N E YA R D S

Organic- and sustainabilityfocused markets

MARKET SHARE

Eating seasonally while supporting local doesn’t come any easier than visiting a farmers’ market, especially when you can meet the maker behind those delicious treats. These worth-the-drive markets are focused on organic foods or goods that are cultivated from sustainable agricultural practices.

Dufferin Grove Organic Farmers’ Market, Toronto (Open year-round, Thursdays)

Ottawa Organic Farmers’ Market (Open year-round, Saturdays)

Perth Farmers’ Market (Open May to October, Saturdays)

Welland Farmers’ Market (Open year-round, Saturdays) – Renée S. Suen

APPLE-CARROT CAKE WITH PUMPKIN SPICED ICING You don’t even need a mixer to make this super-moist loaf—a fork does the job nicely. Unlike most quick breads, this one is butter-based, which ups the flavour quotient. The spices in our easy icing dress it appropriately for Thanksgiving weekend, or slice it any time for the perfect autumn breakfast. 2 cups (500 mL) grated carrot 1 apple, preferably Royal Gala, peeled 2 1/2 cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) cinnamon 1 tsp (5 mL) nutmeg 1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) melted unsalted butter 3/4 cup (175 mL) milk

2 eggs 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla

PUMPKIN SPICED ICING 1 1/4 cups (310 mL) sifted icing sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) pumpkin pie spice 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature 1/2 tsp (2 mL) vanilla 1 block (250 g) regular cream cheese, room temperature

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 2 Oil or spray a 9 x 5-inch (2 L) metal loaf pan. Grate apple and measure out 3/4 cup (175 mL). When measuring carrot and apple, do not pack down. Squeeze measured apple using your hands to remove as much liquid as you can. 3 In a bowl, whisk flour with baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Make a well in the centre. In a large bowl,

whisk sugar with melted butter until mixed. Whisk in milk, then eggs and vanilla. Using a fork, stir in grated apple, then carrot until evenly distributed. Pour into dry ingredients and fold together just until no streaks of flour remain. Mixture will be very thick. Turn into prepared pan and spread out as evenly as possible. 4 Bake in centre of preheated oven for 65 to 70 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in centre comes out clean. Remove to a cooling rack. Run a thin-bladed knife around edges of cake. Leave in pan to cool for 20 minutes, then turn out of pan and place back on rack to cool completely. Store at room temperature, covered with a tea towel, and leave overnight before icing. For longer storage, place in a sealed container or freeze.

5 For the icing, in a bowl, whisk icing sugar with spice. Place butter in a separate bowl and beat with an electric mixer on low speed just until creamy. Add vanilla. Cut cream cheese into 4 pieces. Beat into butter using low speed, 1 piece at a time, just until incorporated (beating too much will cause thinning). Add about one-third of the icing sugar mixture and beat on low just until mixed in, scraping sides of bowl and beaters occasionally. Gradually beat in remaining icing sugar mixture just until smooth. If too thin, beat in a little more icing sugar. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour before spreading on cake. Add more natural goodness, if desired, with a scattering of crisp apple chips—sold in bags in the chip section of grocery stores. Serves 8

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It’s the alkaline water that makes King St. insanely smooth and delicious.

Coming this fall to your local LCBO!

Handcrafted Vodka by Kate Hudson Santa Barbara, California King St. was made to be shared with good friends and family. Please enjoy responsibly.

MARKET SHARE Thanksgiving-worthy picks from the latest VINTAGES release

WHAT TO SERVE

Just in time for Thanksgiving, the VINTAGES Ontario Release will be hot off the press on September 18 (find it online at lcbo.com/vintages). We’ve picked three bottles: two surefire turkey-dinner varietals, Pinot Noir and Riesling, plus an unexpected pre- or post-meal sipper.

Leaning Post Pinot Noir VQA 2019 VINTAGES 523183, $29.95

Classically earthy, with raspberry notes and bright acidity, it’s a perfect partner to turkey dinner. Serve Nippy Chedder Coins with drinks before dinner and send some home with guests. Recipe on page 182.

Roasted Squash & Parsnip Soup with Stilton Toasts The sweet, roasted and earthy flavours of the soup call for the rich malt sweetness, hop and smoky tones found in this beer. The carbonation cleanses the palate. Neustadt 10W30 Brown Ale LCBO 64642, 473 mL, $3.15

Smoked Trout Salad

Turkey Market Tagine

This local bubbly’s crisp apple-citrus flavours and toasty, mineral qualities combine with palaterefreshing bubbles and acidity to make it a seamless match for the salad.

Vibrant red fruit, melon and floral tones in this rosé allow the exotic and savoury elements in the tagine to shine. Serve chilled.

Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs Brut Sparkling VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 172643,

$17.95

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling VQA 2017

Apple-Carrot Cake with Pumpkin Spiced Icing A delightful combination of icewine and fine barrel-aged brandy, this is the perfect after-dinner sipper and a great complement to the cake. Served lightly chilled. Kittling Ridge Icewine & Brandy LCBO 558999, 375 mL, $19.95

VINTAGES 241182, $37.20

It’s dazzling and zesty, certified sustainable and a 2020 Ontario Wine Awards Wine of the Year—need we say more?

Rosewood Estate Winery Legacy Cyser Mead 2017 VINTAGES 521138, $19.95

Toast the beginning or end of the meal with cheese served alongside an incredibly versatile local mead.

213983, $29.95

SEPTEMBER’S COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

Ontario 75 Celebrate local craftsmanship and the return to cooler evenings with this spin on a classic.

Made of just gin, syrup, bubbly and lemon, the French 75 is simplicity at its best. It makes a fantastic vessel for showcasing the fragrance and flavours in local gin, honey and sparkling wine—and the outcome is our Ontario 75! Find the recipe on page 182 and visit the Cocktail of the Month page at lcbo.com/fdcocktail to watch this drink being made.

Discover what goes best with your favourite turkey-day dishes. You’ve got our serving suggestions for this market-inspired menu, but we know you may be cooking up some classics too. Keeping that in mind, we’ve made pairing those a snap with a primer that matches traditional dishes with tried-and-true sippers. No matter what your budget or beverage of choice is, we’ve got you covered with great picks. Find it at lcbo.com/foodanddrink, and you’ll be just a few clicks from checking this task off your list.

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FOOD & DRINK

COCKTAIL IMAGE BY DARREN KEMPER

Thanksgiving pairing guide

SPACE SAVING

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In good company By James Chatto | photography by maya visnyei

These local leaders of the wine world continue to put their stamp on shaping sustainable practices, innovation, giving back and how we enjoy what we sip. The past 18 months have shown us all how important it is to support our neighbours and pull together for our local communities. It’s something many Ontario wineries understood long before the pandemic, just as they have always appreciated the need to farm and make wine in an environmentally responsible way, even in the decades before “sustainability” became a buzzword. Such work is more vital than ever—and because some wineries are shy about blowing their own trumpets when it comes to supporting charities or good causes, we’d like to take this opportunity to mention what they are doing. And to give them a heartfelt thank you.

For the music

Emerging artists This fall, Jackson-Triggs is featuring six emerging Canadian musicians from different genres on special-edition labels of its Reserve Chardonnay VQA (LCBO 526251, $13.95) and Merlot VQA (LCBO 109959, $13.95). Explore their work, their stories and their musical journeys in greater detail at jacksontriggswinery.com.

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Last year, Jackson-Triggs matched every dollar raised at a dazzling live-streamed music event created by Canada’s Great Kitchen Party, benefiting MusiCounts. With their $20,000 donation, MusiCounts can now provide instruments for four schools across Canada and continue supporting music education for all. In collaboration with Canadian R&B artist Emanuel, JacksonTriggs has also made a $10,000 donation to Emanuel’s charity of choice, the Nia Centre for the Arts, which is currently building Canada’s first professional arts centre dedicated to Black art.

IN GOOD COMPANY

Sustainability is an idea everyone can get behind, but what exactly does it mean? Some years ago, a handful of Ontario wineries renowned for walking the walk where environmental responsibility was concerned decided a definition would be helpful—and, beyond that, a certification. Ontario Craft Wineries led the way, creating the Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified (SWO) program and drawing up stringent rules

and standards that had to be met. Last year, they joined the Grape Growers of Ontario to add a separate certification for vineyards. Environmental responsibility is at the heart of the initiative— conserving water, reducing waste and waste water, and implementing energy-efficiency programs, including sustainable power sources. But there are other equally important pillars. Certified wineries must produce

Look for the leaf “Membership is voluntary,” says Ed Madronich, president of Flat Rock Cellars and one of the SWO’s founding members, “but the bar is set pretty high. You have to do a lot to get that little green leaf logo on your wine bottles. It takes commitment, time, eﬀort and investment to qualify.”

VQA wines, which are always made from locally grown grapes, further reducing their carbon footprint. They must also be leaders in social responsibility and actively encourage positive relationships within their communities. In the future, additional charters will set high standards for responsible advertising, employment practices and diversity within the workplace.

Flat Rock Cellars

Clean credibility Each participating winery undergoes an independent third-party audit every year, something that has given the program huge credibility in the public eye. “For the winery itself, it’s a great way to see how you’re doing,” explains Madronich, “and where you can improve.”

Southbrook Vineyards

The number of SWO Certiﬁed wineries and vineyards continues to grow. For the latest list, visit ontariocraftwineries.ca— and look for the green leaf logo on VQA wine labels.

With its Friends First initiative, D’Ont Poke the Bear takes a stand against bullying. Every sale of its VQA wine and craft cider, including Baco Noir Cabernet VQA (LCBO 18412, 3 L, $44.95), raises funds for Kids Help Phone.

For the past nine years, Flat Rock Cellars has supported Feed Ontario, raising money for food banks across the province through sales of its Good Kharma wines, available only at the LCBO. This fall, look for Twisted White VQA (VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 1578, $17.95), a blend winery president Ed Madronich describes as “bridging the gap between people who are heavily involved in wine and the casual wine drinker.”

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn21

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SOUTHBROOK IMAGE COURTESY OF WINE MARKETING ASSOCIATION OF ONTARIO

Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified

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IN GOOD COMPANY

Pelee Island Winery Pelee Island is a remarkable place. Lapped by the waters of Lake Erie, it’s the southernmost inhabited part of Canada and home to flora and fauna found nowhere else in the country. The first Canadian estate winery was built here in the 1860s, and today Pelee Island Winery farms 750 acres of vineyards. It takes its stewardship of the land very seriously. As well as having SWO winery and vineyard certification, it meets 57% of its energy needs through solar energy. Meanwhile, the company benefits the community in a host of ways, supporting local causes from food banks to health to the arts.

VegeCert Is wine vegan? It depends on whether the fining agents used during winemaking include animal products, such as egg white, gelatin, isinglass or milk protein— not information you’ll find on a label. Pelee Island Winery uses none of the above and, just to be crystal clear, all its wines are certified as vegan through VegeCert—and that logo does appear on the bottle! Now vegan wine lovers can be certain of what they’re drinking.

Pelee Island wetland

Nature Conservancy The winery has often been involved in long-term projects of natural restoration, donating a tract of farmland that has now been rehabilitated as endangered Red Cedar Savannah Forest habitat. More recently, it has been working closely with Nature Conservancy of Canada to restore a massive 62-acre wetland on Pelee Island through sales of its core line of VQA wines. Look for Pelee Island’s Lighthouse Riesling VQA (LCBO 145417, $13.45) and Pelee Pink VQA (LCBO 529354, $12.95) on special display tables at LCBO stores this fall.

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn21

GOOD PARTNERS

Through its ongoing contributions to Hamilton Health Sciences Foundation’s Care4 program, Vineland Estates Winery benefits front-line health-care workers and overall public health. Look for Vineland’s Cabernet Franc VQA (LCBO 594127, $14.95).

In 2009, John Howard created Megalomaniac winery to raise funds for Kids’ Health Links Foundation; the work goes on through sales of such wines as Homegrown Riesling VQA (LCBO 183061, $14.95). Other proceeds go to Food Banks Canada.

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PELEE ISLAND IMAGE BY IAN VIRTUE

In memory of family member Michèle Bosc, sales of Château des Charmes Cuvée Michèle Aligoté VQA (LCBO 296848, $15.95) and Pinot Noir VQA (LCBO 454967, $16.95) benefit the Camp Kerry Society’s programs in support of the bereaved.

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F ROM OU R HOM E TO YOU R S . CELEBR ATING 60 YEARS OF FAMILY DINNERS .

Every gathering you have. Every story you tell. Every glass you pour. Thank you for including our family of award winning wines. For 60 years we have maintained our unwavering commitment to winemaking excellence. From our family to yours, our acclaimed locally-made VQA wines are the perfect pairing for any occasion.

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IN GOOD COMPANY

Andrew Peller

GOOD PARTNERS

A strong foundation Almost 20 years since No. 99 created it, the Wayne Gretzky Foundation continues to provide less-fortunate youth with opportunities to experience the sport of hockey. It also supports a number of charitable organizations, including food banks, hospices and United Way. This fall, the foundation enters a new four-year partnership with the Canadian Paralympic Committee as its official supplier of wine, spirits and beer. Gretzky himself is an honourary board member.

Clean power On the sustainability front, Andrew Peller Limited has partnered with Enviro Stewards on its ongoing carbon-reduction journey. Meanwhile, organic waste from the winery is sent to Bayview nursery in Niagara, where it is used in a bio-digestion process as a clean source of electricity.

Bayview Flowers

PUBLIC SPIRIT When the pandemic first struck Ontario in March 2020, Geoff Dillon of Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers in Beamsville sprang into action, distilling and distributing hand sanitizer, free of charge, to first responders all across the province. A number of wineries—including Andrew Peller Limited, Vineland Estates, Diamond Estates, Two Sisters, The Foreign Affair, Creekside Estate, Strewn, Quarry Ridge and Tawse— stepped in with help, donations and tens of thousands of bottles. “And the need is still there,” says Dillon. “We will continue to make and share sanitizer with first responders for as long as they need it, free of charge.”

Last year, among many other good deeds, Wayne Gretzky Estates donated 20,000 pairs of socks to shelters across the country. The brand’s Chardonnay VQA (LCBO 63826, $14.95) proves The Great One also knows from wine.

The G. Magnotta Foundation for Vector-Borne Diseases was created to fund research into Lyme disease in memory of Ontario wine industry icon Gabe Magnotta. Support its work with every purchase of Magnotta Pinot Grigio Venture Series VQA (LCBO 574533, $14.95).

A long-time patron of Canadian artists, 13th Street Winery has launched its new Expression PROJECT, raising funds through sales of its Expression series of wines, including a fine Cabernet Merlot VQA (VINTAGES 18880, $17.95, September 18 release). An annual financial award will be made to a student in OCAD U’s Sculpture/Installation program.

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BAYVIEW FLOWERS IMAGE BY JESSICA MARAGOUDAKIS

This year, Andrew Peller Limited celebrates its 60th anniversary, and we can all join the party by raising a glass of Peller Estates wine (its Family Series Chardonnay VQA— LCBO 582825, $11.95—is hard to beat). Meanwhile, the company and its many brands continue to fundraise for the community. Its sales team alone donated $20,000 to local food banks and hospitality foundations across Canada. Another ingenious win-win idea was purchasing $50,000 in gift cards from hospitality partners and donating them to hospitality workers who had lost their jobs due to the pandemic and front-line healthcare workers.

Quality Assured.

Our Quality Assurance experts at The LCBO Lab are committed to bringing Ontario only the best in quality and innovation. Ontarians can be confident that products found at the LCBO have been tested, tasted and verified because at The LCBO Lab, quality is always assured.

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Learn more at LCBO.com/TheLCBOLab

Pairing Ontario Cheese & Wine Elevate your next meal with these delicious Ontario pairings.

From Ontario Farm Families to Yours Two of Ontario’s most dedicated local food families collaborate on the Savour Ontario Harvest Menu.

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Families That Work Together, Grow Together THE DEN HAAN FAMILY OF SHELDON CREEK EEK DAIRY DAIR AIRY AND THE SPECK FAMILY OF HENRY OF PELHAM ELHAM AM WINERY ON WORK-LIFE, LEGACY Y AND ONTAR ONTARIO ARIO DAIRY AND WINE. You may never have met the den Haan or the Speck families, but you’ve almost certainly encountered the fruits of their labour. The den Haans own and operate Sheldon Creek Dairy in Alliston, Ontario where they produce a range of artisanal milk, flavoured milk, A2 milk and other small-batch dairy products like sour cream, yogurt, kefir and ghee using milk from their own small herd of dairy cows. Their legendary glass-bottled cream-top whole milk is so rich, it has to be stored on its side or the cream will seal the top of the bottle. In St. Catharines, Ontario, the Specks preside over Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, one of the largest Canadian independent wineries. It’s famous for its rich history and quality as well as for its pioneering role in advancing Niagara wine to world rankings with the cultivation and elevation of Baco Noir, a unique varietal that sets the region apart in the global wine market.

Meet the den Haan family SHELDON CREEK DAIRY | ALLISTON, ONTARIO

Emily—a natural with animals who famously could tell each of the cows apart by appearance and personality in grade school—is now responsible for the care of the family dairy cow herd. She shares the short version of the family history. “Our opa and oma had a milk run, delivering milk and cream to doorsteps in Holland. They moved to Canada after the war and were sponsored by a farm about a half-hour away from our farm now. They started Haanview Farms with a single cow from the sponsored farm who had a piece of glass in her foot and was headed for slaughter. They bought her, nursed her back to health and that cow, Maggie, is the matriarch for 75 per cent of our herd. If you come into our barn today, any of the cows whose names start with M can trace their line back to 1962, to that original cow.” Ever since Haanview Farms shipped its first batch of milk, their story is a history of collaboration, community activism and entrepreneurship. Always passionate about quality local food and ingredients, Bonnie and John made the decision to explore building an on-farm dairy. “This was a time when we had people coming to the farm asking for raw milk, which we could not sell, of course.” shares Bonnie. “It showed us, however, that if we could produce a natural product with the taste of raw milk, there was a market for it. In 2010 we started planning to build our own dairy and in 2012, we opened. “Mom had a corn stand at the end of the driveway, and people from the city would come up for ‘Bonnie’s Corn’,” explains Marianne, who manages product development and marketing at Sheldon Creek. “We knew that people would make the drive for something that was really good. In May 2012, we did our first batch of 300 litres. It was probably the scariest thing we’ve ever done. It took nine hours. In comparison, we could do 6,000 litres in nine hours now, maybe even more. It was peanuts.”

The den Haans are a multi-generational dairy farming family driven by a passion for quality, local food and an ingenuity that comes from a shared entrepreneurial spark. In fact, the vast majority of Ontario dairy farms are family owned and operated, producing quality local milk to some of the highest standards in the world, a vocation that can bring a myriad of joys and almost as many trials. Dairy farmer and matriarch Bonnie den Haan sums it up very well: “Things sometimes hit the rocks, but if you keep your cool, think about things long enough and ask the right people for help, things will work out.” Haanview Farms started in 1952, with Bonnie and John den Haan taking over from John’s parents in 1981 and opened Sheldon Creek Dairy in 2012. Today the farm and dairy are operated by Bonnie, John, their daughters Marianne and Emily and Marianne’s husband, Mike Edward. Over time, each family member gravitated to a role where their individual talents could help shape and grow the family business.

After their first successful production, the family at first celebrated, and quickly realized they had to sell the milk. They started small and local, and when a Toronto newspaper wrote a story about their milk, city customers made the drive all summer to pick up their milk. The family knew they needed to find retailers in the city to get through the winter, so Marianne would make her sales visits when she visited her then-boyfriend (and now husband) Mike, who lived in Toronto. “At first, store owners didn’t see the point in adding another milk to their dairy shelves, but then they tasted it,” says Bonnie. “Tasting the milk really sold it. They loved the chocolate milk, of course, but the reaction to the white milk was just as enthusiastic.” Marianne attributes some of the success of their business to growing consumer interest in locally grown, raised and produced food. “In 2012, people started to really grab hold of the idea of “local”. A lot of the retailers we approached were independent, family-owned businesses who were serving customers looking for unique, local products. At the time, there weren’t a lot of dairy products offered in glass bottles, so our milk stood out. Our white and chocolate milk were selling well, but what really launched us the first year was our Holiday

Eggnog. We wanted to make an eggnog that even eggnog “haters” loved. We didn’t want it to be thick — more like a sweetened milk. Other than Dad, none of us really liked eggnog. We sat around the kitchen table, and kept making batches and tasting them, adjusting the sweetness and spice. When we all finally loved it, we put it out there and it was featured in a lot of media articles. It became the centrepiece of dinner tables over the holidays and a kind of conversation piece or a host gift. That really helped spread the word about Sheldon Creek Dairy. People who had always despised eggnog were converted, and now they want more from the source.” Flavoured milks have grown into one of the most unique and popular aspects of the dairy’s business, and have moved beyond eggnog to creative flavours like Pumpkin Spice, Salted Caramel and now Banana. Their popular Neapolitan flavour was actually born out of a production calamity. When Bonnie and John went on a short vacation to visit another dairy in Alberta, the girls were left in charge of the farm and dairy. Some of the natural strawberry flavouring was accidentally mixed into the chocolate milk on the production line — a mistake that was uncovered at a 4H meeting Emily was hosting. The hybrid milk flavour was actually delicious and tasted just like Neapolitan ice cream. Not wanting to waste the product or upset their parents, Marianne and Emily jumped into action. When Bonnie and John were asked about their “new product” while on their dairy tour, they were puzzled. Later, they discovered Sheldon Creek Dairy had launched a new flavour, “Neapolitan Milk” on social media. It sold out and has become a regular offering at the dairy. While it’s no surprise that children rave about their flavoured milks, the den Haans also develop their flavour profiles with professional and home mixologists in mind. “Our creamsicle milk is amazing with vodka”, Marianne says. “When we’re developing a new flavour, we always think about how it might be elevated in a cocktail or mocktail. Already our customers are sharing plans to add Irish cream liqueur to our new S’mores flavour. Some of their ideas are incredible.” Family gatherings are joyful, loud affairs and usually take place at Bonnie’s house. The heart of the house has always been the kitchen island, and when Bonnie and John built their “retirement house”, they designed their new island twice the size. Marianne admits that it’s hard to separate work from life in a family-owned business. “At our gatherings, we eat and drink and talk about the industry. I feel a little bad for those who have joined our family. My husband Mike does not come from a farming family, but he’s learned an incredible amount at those dinners. When we come together we exchange our collective knowledge about various aspects of the industry.” Emily acknowledges that family celebrations still revolve around farm realities, but insists that these are some of her favourite parts of holidays and gatherings. “We’d always head out to the barn to do our chores before enjoying our day and each others’ company. We still celebrate the same way.” Bonnie and John’s greatest source of pride has been “watching the kids make the business their own. Emily just changed all the feed rations in the barn, and Marianne just developed clotted cream. We’ve built up the farm and have been through a lot.” “There’s no greater joy than driving down the road and looking at what you have and thinking about where it has come from and all the stories that intertwined to get it to where it is today.” says Marianne. “Seeing that hard work and love and watching it come to fruition; it’s prosperous because there was no alternative. All of the opportunities and the future – there’s something so exciting about that. If my opa and oma were still here and they saw what the farm is now, they’d be shocked, but they’d be so proud.”

Meet the Speck family HENRY OF PELHAM WINERY | ST. CATHARINES, ONTARIO

The Speck brothers helm Henry of Pelham, one of Ontario’s oldest and most respected family estate wineries. They are stewards of a legacy that reaches back to 1794 when great-great-great grandfather Nicholas Smith was deeded the land where the winery stands today. In 1842, in jest, his son Henry signed the name “Henry of Pelham” to the liquor licence for a tavern he’d built on the land, a tongue-in-cheek reference to a previous British prime minister. That hint of irreverence, mischief and fun are family traits that have clearly endured through the generations. Paul, the eldest brother, runs business operations, while middle brother Matt is the viticulturist, and Daniel, the youngest, heads sales and marketing. While all three brothers grew up working in the vines, in adulthood they found their natural place to flourish within the family business. They actively collaborate on all aspects of the winery operation while respecting each others’ individual strengths and expertise. When it comes to gatherings, Speck family affairs are admittedly a little raucous. “We’ll often have friends—stragglers without families—join us for our holiday gatherings and they often remark that it’s “loud”.” says Matt. “Because the three of us studied philosophy, the conversation ranges from business, to politics, to literature to family stuff. There’s a lot of business and politics in the discussion,” says Paul. “We’re a family of talkers,” Daniel elaborates. In a clear parallel with the den Haan family’s experience, the Specks acknowledge that there is little separation between work and home, and that family gatherings are often the setting for conversations that lead to business and innovation. “ It’s always business,” says Paul. “We could get into a sidebar about launching a new brand while we’re tasting a wine; and then someone will sketch it out on a napkin. That’s what makes it unique, but it’s not for everyone. Most people like to leave work behind when they go home. We’re the opposite. Last Thanksgiving, over dinner, we started talking about this little building on the property we can’t use for the business because it’s too small. That turned into the restoration of a 200 year old barn. It went from, “Where do we store our stuff?” to a full-blown heritage building restoration project over dinner. It’s going to be beautiful when we’re done with it.” Matt shares that the building is a swing beam barn built in the 1830s by Henry’s brother, John N. “We have both their tombstones behind the winery, actually. In the late 1800s, it was converted from a swing beam barn into a dairy barn. It had been raised and has this beautiful stone foundation where the dairy cows would have been, with hay storage above. It’s in amazing condition. As we’re no longer dairy farmers and

we grow grapes, it makes sense to preserve it. There were vineyards on this property going back 150 years, but there were also dairy cows, sheep, and grain.” Not surprisingly, wine is often the centrepiece at Speck family get-togethers. “Gatherings always break into a massive wine tasting,” says Daniel. “I think wine would be a central part of our gatherings even if we weren’t in the wine business–we love it. For example, Paul will bring in a bottle of wine, and then Matt will say, “Oh, I’ve got something interesting to pair with that.” All of a sudden there are five bottles of wine, cheese and food on the table and it’s a full-on pairing session.” If I have a special bottle of wine, I tend to build a meal around that. Normally, you’d pair the wine with the food, but if you have a cool, special wine, you build around that.” Paul agrees, “Wine is a kind of a condiment, in a sense.” The Specks generally favour the classics for holiday dinners, possibly excepting a seafood boil one year that met with mixed reception. “We tend to go with local turkey for Thanksgiving”, says Paul. “In Niagara, we’re blessed with incredible local fruits, vegetables, wines, cheeses and other ingredients from farmers. It’s interesting to take traditional foods and put a unique spin on them – work off the agenda, so to speak.” The wines paired with the Savour Ontario Harvest Menu are the perfect example of pushing the boundaries of familiar foods and flavours. “The Baco is a medium body wine and kind of works with turkey in much the same way as a cranberry sauce.” says Daniel, and Paul agrees. “Normally, most people would pair Pinot Noir or Chardonnay with turkey off the top. But the wines we’ve chosen typify our dinners in that they’re slightly different. Rosé is awesome because you can drink it on its own or even with a salad. Pinot Grigio is one of those wines that’s very approachable, quaffable and crowd pleasing. It goes with pretty much any food. Baco Noir is distinctive and something we’re quite well known for. It’s what you would consider a heritage brand or grape variety. It was developed in France, but it’s become famous in Niagara through Henry of Pelham. It’s very distinctive, but it can act in a traditional way.” Like most agricultural families, the Specks take a long view of their business, looking beyond to generations to come. “The character of our wines comes from our family farm and the original extended family farm we’re piecing back together,” says Matt. We now have 300 contiguous acres of the original farmland. We want to maintain that flavour profile and the quality of our wines and the soil is integral to that.”

From Ontario Farm Families to Yours:

Savour Ontario Harvest Menu This wonderful fall Harvest menu was inspired by favourite family dishes and Ontario flavours enjoyed by the den Haan and Speck families. The creamy cauliflower soup is a variation on Bonnie den Haan’s legendary recipe shared with families and friends over many tables over the years. The turkey, stuffing and gravy were reimagined recipes from a vintage magazine the Speck brothers’ grandmother passed to their mother nearly 70 years ago. The three brothers still use the copies their mother gave them today, the original having nearly fallen apart from love and use.

“Niagara is and always will be a small region in the global wine business.” Paul allows. “Here we are 30+ years later in a highly competitive business and we’re still family owned by three brothers. Our wines are sold across Canada and in 21 countries around the world. In our small way, I’m proud of the fact that we’re spreading the Canadian culture through wine and food around the world, and that we’re doing it independently. Canada does have a food culture worth celebrating, and wine and cheese are a part of that.” Daniel agrees. “We’ve been doing this a long time now, and we’re part of that new generation of wineries in Ontario. Wine has been made here for 200 years, but we’ve played a significant part in defining the wine flavour of the Niagara region and have elevated a specific grape variety with our emblematic Baco Noir. Not every winery can “own” a grape variety.” “And, as I look at the agricultural side of what we do, you can drive by our vines and see blocks that are 30 or 50 years old.” adds Matt. “As the vines mature, as makers of wine, we appreciate their maturity as they age into more defined flavours. The local wine community is also evolving, gaining confidence and maturing, and we’re proud to be part of that agricultural and food community.

Scan the QR code to access the free Savour Ontario Harvest menu recipes or visit savourontario.ca/harvest.

Ontario Cheese Course Featuring Ontario Gouda, fresh Mozzarella, Cheddar, Brie and Burrata, this local cheese course is the perfect way to enjoy some of Ontario’s finest cheese varieties paired with Ontario wines.

Double Scalloped Potatoes with Aged Ontario Gouda Ontario sweet and yellow potatoes topped with the richness of local aged Gouda deliver the flavours of fall.

Herb & Wine Smoked Turkey with Henry’s Gravy The combination of Ontario butter, herbs, spices and wine in this to-die-for brine help create a flavourful and juicy young turkey, finished with a luscious white wine gravy.

Apple Crumble Tarts with Maple-Whipped Ontario Cream Every bite of these tarts is a reminder of the bounty of our province, and the perfect finish to an autumn gathering.

Sheldon Creek’s Farmhouse Cauliflower Soup This creamy rustic soup sets the stage for a meal that guests will talk about for years.

Pelham’s Famous Dressing This classic dressing is enriched with Ontario butter, milk and fresh herbs that will dress up any turkey, any time.

Ontario Burrata Ontario Aged Cheddar

Ontario Brie Ontario Fresh Mozzarella

Ontario Cheese Henry of Pelham Wines Ontario Fresh Mozzarella or Ontario Burrata

Ontario Gouda or Ontario Aged Cheddar

Ontario Gouda

Ontario Brie

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir

Henry of Pelham Pinot Grigio

Ontario fresh mozzarella or burrata perfectly complements this refreshing rosé with rose petal aromas and a vibrant cherry flavour with a hint of cranberry.

This deep, dark flagship red is the perfect match for Ontario-crafted cheeses of bold character and rich or smoked flavours.

The buttery smoothness of a fresh, young Ontario Brie brings out the delightful white cranberry and melon flavours in this refreshing wine.

Henry of Pelham Rosé

Look for Savour Ontario cheese and wine pairings and chef-created recipes on select bottles of Henry of Pelham wine at your local LCBO!* * Available while quantities last.

Connect with Ontario’s local food scene and the culinary artisans, producers, restaurants and chefs who deliver the bounty of Ontario to tables across the province. Sign up for FREE locally elevated and chef crafted recipes and inspiration at:

savourontario.ca

FLAVOURS

Stew and improved You won’t miss the meat with these tasty, hearty stews that are sure to tackle your hunger. Having vegetables at the forefront makes them nutritious, delicious and satisfying. By Eric Vellend photography by james tse

MUSHROOM BOURGUIGNON Recipe on page 181

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STEW AND IMPROVED

VEGAN GREEN CURRY WITH TOFU & CASHEWS Fragrant and comforting, this verdant Thai-style curry requires a fair bit of advanced prep, but it comes together in minutes. Thai Kitchen brand curry paste is specified as it’s relatively mild and easy to find. Keep in mind that other brands may contain fish sauce and vary in heat level, so adjust accordingly.

1 In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add garlic. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add curry paste. Cook for 30 seconds. Add vegetable stock, coconut milk, soy

sauce, sugar and salt. Raise heat to high. When it comes to a boil, add broccoli, zucchini, beans and tofu. When it returns to a boil, partially cover and reduce heat to maintain a brisk simmer. Cook, gently stirring twice, until vegetables are al dente, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat. 2 Place cilantro in a food processor or mini food chopper. Pulse

until finely chopped. Add 1 cup (250 mL) of hot cooking liquid. Run machine until cilantro is very finely chopped and liquid is light green. Return mixture to curry and gently stir in along with lime juice. Taste for salt. 3 Using a rasp, lightly grate a little lime zest overtop. Sprinkle with cashews and basil. Serve with steamed rice. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Fragrant exotic fruit and spice tones marry with the textures and dominant flavours of the curry. The wine’s hint of sweetness will moderate any heat. Pelee Island Lola Gewürztraminer VQA LCBO 618231, $13.95

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SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

1 tbsp (15 mL) raw coconut oil 2 large shallots, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp (30 mL) Thai Kitchen green curry paste 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) vegetable stock 1 (400 mL) can full-fat coconut milk 1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) packed light brown sugar Salt to taste 3 cups (750 mL) broccoli florets 1 medium zucchini, about 8 oz (225 g), trimmed, halved lengthwise and sliced on bias 1/3 inch (8 mm) thick 6 oz (170 g) green beans, trimmed and halved 1 (1-lb) block extra-firm tofu, drained, dried and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes 1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed cilantro leaves 2 tsp (10 mL) lime juice 1 lime, washed Roasted cashews and basil leaves for garnish Steamed jasmine rice for serving

MADE. BY. DISTILLERS.

STEW AND IMPROVED ALPINE VEGETABLE STEW A hearty spin on Switzerland’s soupe de chalet, this stew features fall vegetables in a rich, creamy sauce fortified with mountain cheese. Fontina Val d’Aosta is a raw cow’s milk cheese from Northern Italy that can be found at eataly.ca. More common Gruyère is a fine substitute. 1/2 small head Savoy cabbage 2 large leeks 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter 1 large onion, about 7 oz (200 g), finely chopped 1 stalk celery, finely chopped 3 cups (750 mL) vegetable stock 1 lb (455 g) small potatoes, preferably fingerlings, halved Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 lb (455 g) turnips, about 2 large, peeled and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks 3/4 cup (175 mL) heavy cream, preferably organic Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 2 cups grated Italian fontina, about 1/2 lb (225 g) 1 tbsp (15 mL) cornstarch Finely sliced chives and cracked pepper for garnish

1 Remove dark outer leaves of cabbage and save for another use. Cut remaining cabbage into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces, removing and discarding thick ribs when possible. You should have about 6 cups (1.5 L). Set aside. 2 Trim and discard dark green tops of leeks, or save for vegetable stock. Cut leeks in half lengthwise and rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Slice 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. Place in a large bowl of water. Swirl with fingertips and let dirt fall to bottom. Carefully lift leeks out and place in a bowl. You should have about 5 cups (1.25 L). Set aside.

3 In a large pot, heat butter over medium heat. Add onion and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring, for another 5 minutes. (Reduce heat if it starts to brown.) Add vegetable stock, potatoes, cabbage, salt and pepper. Raise heat to high. When it comes to a boil, cover and reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring twice, for 5 minutes. Add turnips and leeks. Raise heat to high. When it returns to a boil,

cover and reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, another 10 minutes. Remove cover and gently stir in cream and nutmeg. When it starts to simmer again, remove pot from heat. 4 In a medium bowl, toss cheese with cornstarch. Add cheese in 3 batches, stirring gently until melted. Serve hot, sprinkled with chives and cracked pepper. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Aligoté produces crisp, dry whites with high acidity. This local example is the perfect accompaniment to the soup, balancing the richness of the cheese and cream. Château des Charmes Aligoté VQA LCBO 296848, $15.95

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Thank You Mother Nature. NEW at the LCBO.

For the uniqueness of our Sicilian land and the exceptional wines we bring to the table. Enjoy responsibly: www.cusumano.it

GIFTING

Give and take Whether you’re gifting a token of appreciation, toasting a birthday or holiday, or giving yourself a well-earned reward, these gift-worthy drinks make any autumn moment a celebration.

Since it’s the thought that counts, show loved ones you’re thinking about them with a gift that gives fall vibes. Tailor a bottle to a fun occasion, like Thanksgiving or Halloween. Toast the season with indulgent flavours that complement harvest feasts. Or splurge on little luxuries—like “any time” bubbly or innovative twists on your old favourites—for yourself and your family. With our insider LCBO gifting tips, it’s never been simpler to pay it forward.

By Charlene Rooke | photography by darren kemper

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GIVE AND TAKE

Autumn occasions It’s the season of back-to-school and the return to routine—but also one spiced with fun. Spooky, kooky Halloween-themed bottles, abundant Thanksgiving offerings and celebratory harvest toasts are seasonal drinks that will be received with gratitude.

Blackwell Fine Jamaican Rum 007 Limited Edition LCBO 20780, $62.30

If your Halloween alter ego is a slick spy, sip this rare extra-aged rum from the current owner of the former Jamaican estate of Ian Fleming (James Bond’s creator). It comes with a top-secret augmented reality experience via a QR code on the bottle.

Honest Lot Wines Sauvignon Blanc: LCBO 21441, $12.95 Cabernet Sauvignon: LCBO 21442, $12.95 At Thanksgiving, it’s a blessing to find goodquality table wines at reasonable prices. This duo, a bright, dry white and a rich, satisfying red, offers great value and is versatile enough to serve with every course.

Muskoka Harvest Ale LCBO 518274, 473 mL, $3.65

This bold, unfiltered ale uses all-Ontario grain, yeast and hops for authentically local flavour. Its toasty and stone-fruit flavours—and creamy texture—pair well with cranberry-sauced turkey burgers.

Dead Man’s Fingers Spiced Rum LCBO 19825, $29.95

Beyond the creepy branding and bottle, this rum stands out among the Halloween treats for its sophisticated flavours of saffron and sherry, along with tropical fruit, baking spices and toffee. Mix it with ginger ale or cold-brew coffee.

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GIVE AND TAKE

The flavours of fall From pumpkin spice to apple pie, autumn is a time of warming tastes. Capture the season’s essence in these innovative new bottles, which complement fall food flavours beautifully.

Insider tips on making lcbo.com your personal shopping assistant.

Online exclusives Find them under Collections on the main menu of lcbo.com: Ever-changing perks could include a free hat, shirt or scarf with a spirits purchase, or a wine-and-gift-card combo for a “perfect night in” present.

Steinhart Rhubarb Gin LCBO 19408, 500 mL, $37.95

This Nova Scotia distillery’s apothecary-style bottle hides a golden, spicy gin with tart rhubarb and bright evergreen-tinged juniper. Enjoy it in a fall Martini or as a highball with soda water.

What’s new

Baileys Apple Pie

LCBO 22034, $32.45

With tastes of baked apple and warm spice, this new flavour of the beloved cream liqueur puts the à la mode on seasonal fall flavours. Use it to make a luxe chai latte, or double down on decadence and pour it over ice cream.

Looking for something new? Keep your eye on the New Arrivals tab on the home page and be among the first to taste the world’s best drinks as they come to Ontario.

Bags, boxes and cards At in-store checkouts or on lcbo.com, you’ll find autumnthemed bottle boxes, gift cards and bags. Online, under the Gifts tab, you’ll also discover curated ideas for local and seasonal presents for every budget.

The Wanted Zin Old Vines Zinfandel IGT LCBO 416487, $14.80

Click and collect

Known for its deep, spicy notes, Zinfandel is a stellar fall food wine. The mocha and dried fruit notes on the finish of this old-vines bottling pair well with roasted lamb or Mexican mole. Look for the new 1.5 L bottle (LCBO 19696, $24.95) in stores this fall.

Compañero Elixir Orange LCBO 19997, $71.40

This sweet Trinidadian rum, infused with orange, coconut and warm spice, is a cozy fall reminder of sundrenched flavours. Enjoy a pour over ice after dinner, especially with chocolate desserts.

Locate your recipient’s neighbourhood store on lcbo.com, browse for a Same-Day Pickup product (minimum purchase is $50) and during checkout, tick the boxes for someone else to pick it up, and to add a gift message and (price-free) receipt. When it’s ready, an email will instruct your giftee to reap the reward, at their convenience!

Curbside pickup It’s quick, contactless and convenient. On lcbo.com, choose your store and Same-Day Pickup. You’ll receive an email when your order is ready. Just pull into a designated parking spot, call or text the given number—and pop the door or trunk!

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NEW

THE FIRST HARD SELTZER WITH

R 4 3 m 7

SUPERFRUIT ACEROLA CHERRY. NOW AVAILABLE

OR I E AL

RB CA S

130 PER

3 mL

GIVE AND TAKE

Treat yourself (or someone else) It’s the time of year for harvesting rewards after seasons of striving: Elevate the everyday to exceptional with something notable to toast with, or gift anyone with an “any time” prezzie just for being special.

The Audacity of Thomas G. Bright Orange Wine VQA

Plantation Xaymaca Special Dry Rum LCBO 19824, $37.95

Rum aficionados revere the “high-hogo” Jamaican style, which has an intense rum-funk nose of overripe tropical fruit, vegetal and fresh earth notes. Stir it over ice with 1/2 oz each of fresh lime juice and simple or maple syrup.

LCBO 16878, $16.95

Heard of orange wines but haven’t yet dipped a taste bud in the trend? Grape-skin contact during fermentation gives this dry wine a coppery hue, with rich floral, citrus and spice notes that go great with ham.

Romeo and Juliet Prosecco Romeo Prosecco: LCBO 21434, $14.95 Juliet Prosecco Rosé: LCBO 20979, $14.95

Inject some romance into every day with Italian Prosecco as dreamy as the starcrossed lovers. Romeo is a classic bright pale Prosecco; Juliet is an on-trend rosé Prosecco, an entirely new type of wine born in Italy in 2020 that uses Pinot Nero grapes (the Italian name for Pinot Noir) for a delicate pink blush and berry notes. Pair them with prosciutto and crisp bread sticks.

Madison Park Breakfast Gin LCBO 19416, $49.95

A Montreal small-batch distillery brews blossomscented tea-infused gin that makes eye-opening brunch cocktails. Add 1/2 oz to a Mimosa or Bellini before you top it with bubbly.

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Harrow, Ontario – where our winery is located – was once known as Hopetown, a settlement surveyed in 1824. The name embraces the promise of new beginnings and an enduring pursuit for happiness and a bright future.

SAVE $2.00 Reg. $13.95 | Now $11.95 FROM SEPT. 13TH – OCT. 10TH, 2021

TWISTS

CHRISTINA’S GO-TO LEMON-&-BUTTERROASTED CHICKEN Recipe on page 172

Chef Christine Mast, formerly at Two Sisters Vineyards twosistersvineyards.com

Three of a kind A trio of acclaimed Niagara chefs gets creative with whole chicken, giving it a modern spin as a hero ingredient for anytime meals. By Amy Rosen | photography by james tse

The wines of Ontario’s bucolic Niagara region reflect the perfect simplicity of the area, in much the same way that perfectly roasting a chicken brings out the best in the bird. We asked three winery chefs for their homiest roast chicken recipes—best enjoyed, naturally, at home with a nice bottle of wine.

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“A good roast chicken is everything,” says chef Christine Mast, who left Kitchen 76, the restaurant at Two Sisters, early this year. She loves how warm and comforting it is. It never disappoints, and you’ll have leftovers for days. “Soups, sandwiches—it’s a big at-home meal for me.” Chef Mast understands some people find roasting a chicken intimidating but says a little bit of knowledge goes a long way. “Roasting it whole retains the juices and helps marry all the flavours.” Letting it rest is also key. And don’t be afraid of fat, from both the butter and the skin. “Fat helps build flavour, retain juiciness and mellow acidity. It just evens everything out and makes it super delicious.”

For a butter-basted bird, go with an equally buttery barrelaged Chardonnay. Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 573147, $19.95

THREE OF A KIND

RICKY’S WEEKEND ROAST CHICKEN WITH ADOBO PAN SAUCE Recipe on page 172

If chicken is served with a robust sauce, then a peppery Syrah is the right choice. Creekside Syrah VQA LCBO 66654, $15.95

Chef Ricky Casipe at Westcott Vineyards Busy chef couple Ricky Casipe and Olivia Simpson, of Ricky + Olivia at Westcott Vineyards, often make this recipe at home because it uses pantry items and is quick to prepare. “Growing up in a Filipino household, adobo was something we ate all the

time,” says Casipe. “There are as many variations of this dish as there are regions in the Philippines, but in the Casipe household, it consists of vinegar, soy sauce, bay leaf, garlic and peppercorns.” The result is tangy, floral, savoury—and utterly delicious. Casipe says

he learned the unique roasting technique from his days as head chef at a Texas barbecue restaurant, where he would cook 100 whole chickens a week. “This method exposes more skin to direct heat,” he says, “and cooks both the dark and white meat evenly.”

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PORTRAIT BY BRILYNN FERGUSON

westcottvineyards.com

Introducing

Coteaux Bourguignons from

The most affordable Burgundy wine available at the LCBO.

2 off

from September 13 – October 10 LCBO# 20652 | $14.95

THREE OF A KIND

DANIEL’S PASTURE-RAISED ROAST CHICKEN Recipe on page 170

Co-Chef Daniel Hadida at Pearl Morissette pearlmorissette.com

“There’s almost a meditative quality to roasting a chicken,” says chef Daniel Hadida of one of his favourite meals. He says it’s a dish that’s implicitly made to be shared. “There’s a celebration about it: the prep work, the anticipation while drying it so it’ll be crispy-skinned.” Then, as you prepare your side dishes as it’s roasting away, there’s that nostalgic aroma. “You’re aware of it through all of your senses,” he says. “It’s almost like putting on some jazz your parents used to listen to; it’s playing in the background.”

PORTRAIT BY JOHN CULLEN

Whether it’s from Burgundy or Ontario, cool-climate Pinot Noir is a fail-safe red with roast chicken. Hidden Bench Estate Organic Pinot Noir VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 274753, $34.95

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K O O L NEW n no one gets you like your siblings. Whether they build you up or knock you dow e, or two. ju can’t agree, hash it out over a glass of win When you just

$2 OFF. NOW...

LCBO# 126151

SEPT 13– OCT 10

LCBO# 126144

iblingrivarl wine.ca

ro Wine

ADVERTISING FEATURE

PROSECCO ROSÉ IS HERE —AND WE’RE TICKLED PINK Be among the first to toast two hot trends — sparkling and rosé wine — together: Italy’s brand-new export, Prosecco Rosé, is available now at the LCBO! Prosecco Rosé standards, freshly created in 2020, evolve Italy’s beloved bubbly into a must-have modern wine, ideal for aperitivo toasts and pairing with pizza or antipasti. The secret to its perfect blush is a gentle 60-day second fermentation with up to 15 per cent of premium red Pinot Noir grapes added to Prosecco’s Glera grape base. Prosecco Rosé DOC is consistently superb. Always dry, with soft and lasting bubbles, it adds a food-friendly hint of berry to Prosecco’s apple and citrus notes. Look for these wines in the sparkling wine section at LCBO.com or in-store — or in the chilled section, for impromptu dining and toasting!

Bottega Prosecco Rosé DOC Spumante Brut LCBO l 20995 l $17.95 Medium-bodied & Flavourful (D – 11 g/L)

34876

The scent of wild strawberries and just a hint of fresh rose petal layer atop peach-blossom aromas and citrus and tree-fruit flavours. Pour this fresh, vivid wine alongside Caprese salad, vegetable risotto or sushi.

La Marca Prosecco Rosé DOC

Juliet Prosecco Rosé DOC

Ruffino Prosecco Rosé DOC

LCBO l 20799 l $19.95 Medium-bodied & Flavourful (D – 16 g/L)

LCBO l 20979 l $14.95 Medium-bodied & Flavourful (D – 13 g/L)

LCBO l 20896 l $16.95 Medium-bodied & Flavourful (D – 17 g/L)

The signature blue label promises La Marca’s honeysuckle and lemon-zest nose and apple-pear palate; this rosé’s strawberry and cherry notes pair well with Thai noodles or curry, or desserts like berry tarts or macarons.

This full-bodied wine opens with a floralbouquet aroma and tastes of ripe peach, berry and passion fruit, with a crisp and clean finish. Its perfect companions are a crisp plate of fritto misto or a seafood salad.

Full of fruity strawberry and tree-fruit notes, yet still citrus-crisp and lightly spicy on the finish, this intensely coloured rosé is stunning with seafood crudo, ceviche or sushi, and with roasted or grilled chicken.

Name-check it: The DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) quality mark is on the back of the bottle neck.

Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

108 A Guide to Cider | 116 Crushing on Garlic

Is autumn your favourite season? With days still warm enough to stay outside but cool evenings that encourage cozying up? And a glorious harvest of fresh local produce to enjoy? Amid all the fruit and vegetables, don’t forget the mighty garlic: Join us as we celebrate its versatility. And nothing beats Ontario apples, except maybe Ontario cider— we discover the province’s finest. Share our delectable recipes for a casual fall lunch—alfresco, if you like—or spice up your cocktail repertoire when it’s time to turn up the heat. And in honour of the new harvest in wine country, we offer a primer on cooking with wine. Autumn is here, and it’s time to get busy again.

88 Spice It Up! | 94 Wine and Dine | 100 Afternoon Delights

Autumn 2021

Feeling extra spicy? Offer the option of garnishing with whole Thai chilies.

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Spice it up! SPICY PUMPKIN LEMONADE & WHISKEY

Spicy pepper and sweet, earthy pumpkin blend rich fall flavours into classic summertime lemonade and whiskey. Recipe on page 167

Add a fiery kick to cocktails by incorporating warming ingredients, from cinnamon and peppers to horseradish and ginger. When someone says they like it spicy, fresh peppers that measure high on the embarrassing face-making scale come to mind. Don’t sweat too much about the mouth burn from ghost or Scotch bonnet peppers, because you can also find sensory kick in all kinds of ingredients, from humble horseradish and ginger to overlooked pantry staples like cinnamon. Consider peppercorns, which are beloved for their hints of heat but actually work really well in drinks when balanced with sweet fruit. Read on for ideas for how to mix your love for spice into old standard recipes to make some dynamite fall sippers.

TRY WITH… Maker’s Mark Kentucky Bourbon LCBO 103747, $42.95

By Victoria Walsh | PHOTOGRAPHY BY rob fiocca

A simple mix of sugar and crushed pink peppercorns transforms sangria into a sophisticated cocktail.

PLUM & PEPPERCORN SANGRIA

Sangria is the ultimate experimental cocktail. Get creative by whipping up a batch spiced with pepper’s robust, hot flavour, offset by the addition of luscious fall fruit. Recipe on page 167

TRY WITH… St-Rémy VSOP Brandy LCBO 298729, 200 mL, $9.95

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Make a statement by garnishing with a red olive or a pickled purple pearl onion.

Horseradish Martini

Taking inspiration from a savoury Martini twist, the Gibson, this timeless classic has a bit of bite (it’s “in-the-nose” spicy, like wasabi) with the addition of fresh horseradish. Recipe on page 167

TRY WITH… Heretic Spirits Gin #1 LCBO 14353, $39.95

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Create drama by cutting your lime twist with precision and fastening it to the glass with a cocktail clothespin.

beet ginger mule

Incorporate sweet in-season beets into a homemade ginger beer for the ultimate zingy cocktail mixer. Recipe on page 166

TRY WITH… Tito’s Handmade Vodka LCBO 597559, $34.30

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Go big with the garnishes by adding a fragrant sage leaf or Luxardo cocktail cherry to this drink.

CINNAMONSCENTED BLACK MANHATTAN

With its woodsy aroma and sweet yet warming spicy bitterness, cinnamon adds a whole new dimension to a lesser-known amaroinfused old-guard cocktail, the Black Manhattan. Recipe on page 166

TRY WITH… Forty Creek Copper Pot Reserve Whisky LCBO 285254, $32.50

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WIN E Do more with your favourite varietals by unleashing the complexity of their flavours in your cooking. Braise, poach, deglaze or marinate these dishes that put wine front and centre.

AN D By Tonia Wilson-Vuksanovic | photography by james Tse

DIN E The use of wine in cooking is not a new concept: The Romans were using it in food preparation long before contemporary chefs began creating elegant and sophisticated dishes. In ancient regions where grapes traditionally grew, wine would have been consumed as a beverage but also used as part of a cook’s arsenal of ingredients to flavour, sweeten or preserve food items. Using wine in food preparation has come a long way since then. We can thank French chefs for refining techniques of cooking with wine and for archiving those recipes in cookbooks. While other cultures also have culinary histories that include wine, it’s the classic French methods that have persisted. Master these four time-honoured techniques—poaching, braising, marinating and deglazing—to gain a versatile foundation in cooking with wine. And don’t forget dessert!

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POACHING WITH WINE Poaching simmers delicate foods, such as fish, eggs or poultry, in a flavoursome liquid that slowly conducts heat through the proteins. Acidified with wine, citrus juice or vinegar, the poaching liquid helps cook the proteins but also enhances the flavour in much the same way that salt does. The key to a tasty final dish is ensuring your poaching liquid is well-seasoned, with enough punch to make sure you’re infusing flavour, not blandness, into the food: Always taste your poaching liquid before cooking. Poached items are frequently served with sauce to give additional flavour— think eggs Benedict with hollandaise or the classic Provençal poached seafood dish bouillabaisse with a garlicky red pepper rouille. The item being poached should be fully submerged so it cooks evenly, and never bring the liquid above a simmer while cooking.

Value-priced boxed wine is a great way to always have wine on hand for cooking, and it can last up to six weeks.

Wines for poaching Most white wine grapes have flavours that marry very well with all sorts of foods, which make them perfect poaching liquids. Some white grape varieties to try include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Albariño, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Verdicchio.

Calmel & Joseph Villa Blanche Chardonnay LCBO 375071, $15.30

This is a great go-to for poaching fish, as it has notes of melon and pear with an added touch of butteriness from the oak.

Salmon Poached in White Wine with Tangerine & Bay Leaf Recipe on page 179

The Wolftrap Viognier Chenin Blanc Grenache Blanc LCBO 292532, $14.00

This South African blend offers double the flavour to the pan: notes of pear and citrus, spice and a touch of honey.

WHITE WINE IS USUALLY BEST FOR POACHING, TO AVOID DISCOLOURING FOOD, THOUGH SOME UNIQUE POACHING RECIPES (SUCH AS WINEPOACHED PEARS) CALL SPECIFICALLY FOR RED WINE.

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BRAISING WITH WINE Braising allows you to take a modest cut of meat (like lamb, beef and pork shoulder and chops; beef and lamb shanks; chicken thighs; beef brisket and various types of stewing meat) and turn it into something extraordinary. In its simplest form, braising sears meat in butter or oil to create a dark golden crust— this is where a lot of the flavour comes from. This browning process, called the Maillard reaction, is a chemical process that occurs when proteins and sugars are exposed to heat. Wine and stock (or water) are then added, and everything simmers on the stovetop or in the oven; the slow braise breaks down protein strands, and the wine’s acidity acts as a tenderizer for tough tissue and balances unctuous sauces, which are rich in meat gelatin and fat. It takes patience, but the reward is a dish full of complex flavour, as aromatics, spices and other ingredients release their flavours. Err on the side of too-long rather than tooshort cooking times: Fall-off-the-bone is always better than chewy!

Not just for meat

Braising works wonders on vegetables and legumes as well. Slowly simmering beans and lentils or mushrooms and eggplant in a flavourful wine-based liquid makes them creamy and savoury.

Wines for braising Most of the alcohol in wine cooks off in the braising process. Choose boldly flavoured red wines for the biggest flavour hit and complexity: They leave rich and delicious notes of berries, stone fruits and herbs. Strewn Rogue’s Lot Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon VQA LCBO 65342, $14.95

This Bordeaux blend has loads of dark berry fruit and a touch of herbaceous character, making it a great partner for the braised lamb. Red House Wine Co. Cabernet Shiraz VQA LCBO 219030, $13.95

Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are two of the wine world’s boldest red grapes, providing lots of deep fruit flavour to the dish.

Lamb Shoulder Chops with Rosehip, Fig & Green Olives Recipe on page 179

Root 1 Carmenere Colchagua LCBO 350546, $14.20

Dark plum and spice help add great flavour to the lamb, and a hint of bright acidity keeps things balanced.

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Wines for deglazing When deglazing with red wine, be sure to choose ones with lower tannins, as their bitterness is concentrated as the wine reduces. Pinot Noir, Gamay and Merlot are good choices.

THE MORE CARAMELIZATION YOU PRODUCE IN THE PAN, THE MORE FLAVOUR YOU WILL HAVE IN YOUR SAUCE. DON’T MOVE THE MEAT AROUND TOO MUCH WHILE SEARING, OR IT WON’T GET A CHANCE TO CARAMELIZE.

Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir VQA LCBO 13904, $17.95

Complementary flavours of red berries and spice, along with subtle tannins, make this wine an ideal candidate for deglazing.

Angels Gate Gamay Noir VQA LCBO 107714, $14.95

The red plum and earthy flavours of this Gamay almost mirror those in the recipe, making it perfectly suited for this dish.

Inniskillin Dry Riesling VQA LCBO 83790, $14.45

If you’d prefer to use a white for this recipe, Riesling adds lots of complementary citrus notes, while its acidity tempers the sweetness of the plums.

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Pork Tenderloin with Okonomiyaki Recipes on page 180

DEGLAZING WITH WINE Deglazing the pan with wine is the easiest way to make a sauce. These sauces start with pan-searing poultry, pork, beef, lamb or vegetarian options like eggplant or tempeh to brown them, as in the braising technique. Then wine is added to loosen the caramelized browned bits in the pan (these are huge flavour sources, so don’t let them go to waste). The liquid in the pan concentrates as it reduces over heat, creating a lot of flavour with little work. Bonus: Deglazing also helps clean the pan! Deglazing works best for proteins like chicken breasts, beef fillets and pork chops that are thick enough to brown before becoming overcooked. Don’t rush the process—charring the meat will create acrid flavour in your pan sauce. Use a generous amount of oil to help with browning, as you can always pour off any excess before deglazing. To lengthen and give pan sauces more depth of flavour, add stock, water, jam or jelly, cream, chilled butter or sour cream.

BE CAREFUL WITH SALTY INGREDIENTS SUCH AS MISO OR SOY SAUCE, AS THEY CAN BE ABSORBED QUICKLY BY THIN FISH FILLETS OR CHICKEN CUTLETS, RENDERING THEM TOO SALTY. A SQUIRT OF LEMON HELPS BALANCE FLAVOURS.

Tempeh & Mushroom Stroganoff Recipe on page 180

Wines for marinating When choosing wines for marinating, consider what other ingredients will be in the completed dish and choose something complementary. If the dish is beef with mushrooms, opt for something earthy; if it is fish with herbs, choose one with lemon notes—all the while making sure the wine’s acid is high so it will tenderize. Look for LCBO style descriptors like “crisp” and “tart.” Reif Estate Riesling VQA LCBO 111799, $13.95

Riesling’s typically high acidity makes it great for marinating. This one has subtle notes of dried fruit and pine nut, which work well with the tempeh’s nutty character. Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde LCBO 89995, $12.80

The wines of Portugal’s Vinho Verde region are known for their bright acidity and minerality—perfect for adding some complexity to this stroganoff. Château Saint-Germain Bordeaux Supérieur AOC LCBO 152587, $16.80

This French red has the right amount of acid to marinate the tempeh. It also adds some depth of colour to the final sauce.

Marinades are a great way to use up leftover wine that’s slightly past its drinking prime. Keep leftover wine in the refrigerator or even the freezer (freeze in an ice cube tray) until ready to use.

MARINATING WITH WINE One of the main benefits of marinating with wine is infusing flavour into whatever you’re preparing. The acidity works as a tenderizer to break down meat tissue and soften proteins, creating a more succulent product. Marinades typically consist of an acid (wine, citrus juice or vinegar and oil), in addition to whatever complementary flavours you like (such as herbs, spices, maple syrup, soy sauce or sesame oil). A handful of herbs, a splash of wine and some olive oil give you an all-purpose marinade that’s great for beef, pork and poultry. One thing to consider when making a marinade is what colour of wine to use. For darker meats like beef and lamb, red wine complements their flavour. However, white wine is the way to go with lighter-coloured proteins like fish, poultry and tofu, as well as vegetables.

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PREPARING DESSERTS WITH WINE It’s not only dry wines that are great for food preparation; sweet varieties are an easy way to add some sophistication to your desserts. Icewines and late-harvest wines made from white grapes are great for dishes that incorporate eggs, such as custards and cheesecakes, while those from red grapes are perfect for berry desserts. Fortified wines such as port and banyuls are suited to coffee and chocolate delicacies. Create the easiest dessert of all by simply dousing fresh peach or apricot slices with some sweet bubbly, like a Moscato d’Asti.

Choosing wines for cooking The most important consideration when choosing a wine for cooking is that it should be good enough that you’d also like to drink it. Most recipes don’t call for an entire bottle of wine, so the remainder should be something you look forward to enjoying!

Small-format wines (cans or 375-mL bottles) are a great alternative to using full bottles when cooking.

kitchen hack

Outset Sparkling Wine VQA LCBO 14791, 250 mL, $4.80

The smaller format makes this wine perfect for preparing desserts, as you don’t need to open an entire bottle. Use it to macerate seasonal fruits, and then incorporate it into a sabayon to pour overtop.

Pillitteri Late Harvest Vidal VQA

Kittling Ridge Kingsgate Reserve Apera

VINTAGES 488668, 375 mL, $15.80

LCBO 90860, $9.55

Add an ounce of this lush, tropical Niagara specialty to the pineapple in pineapple upside-down cake before cooking, and enjoy as a pairing alongside.

This fortified wine offers up delicious dried fruit and nut aromas that can be incorporated into a classic bread pudding recipe by adding a splash to the egg mixture that soaks the bread—or simply pour it over vanilla ice cream.

Choosing wines for pairing A good rule of thumb when pairing wine with your dish is to pick a variety of the same colour (white or red) that has similar characteristics, such as dominant notes of citrus, stone fruit, red berries or herbs. Another essential factor is the wine’s weight, or body (look for the style descriptor on lcbo.com product pages or the shelf tag in stores). Lighter dishes should pair with light-bodied wines, and heavier dishes work best with medium- or full-bodied wines, regardless of colour.

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Wine can be reduced in a small saucepan until it’s a thick and concentrated syrup; keep it refrigerated for a couple of months, and use it to glaze grilled meat or add a quick hit of flavour to dressings or sauces.

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn21

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AFTERNOON DELIGHTS Savour the last warm days of the year with a casual alfresco lunch that captures all the things we love about fall in every bite. By Lindsay Guscott | PHOTOGRAPHY BY james tse

With a nod to classic Italian delis, this casual lunch menu was designed to celebrate Ontario’s harvest season and all the produce it has to offer. We’ll start things off with a refreshingly light soup before moving on to two autumnal salads, one roasted and one raw. Next up, there are two colossal sandwiches to choose from or, if you’re feeding a crowd, make them both to satisfy the vegetarians and meat eaters in your life. To round it all out, we’ll end with a nut brittle that will satisfy your sweet tooth without weighing you down.

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Divide and conquer Make dressings, toppings and spreads the day before for easier assembly.

Wrap it up Wrap sandwiches in parchment paper and then plastic wrap for trouble-free transport. When it comes time to serve, cut through both layers rather than unwrapping (this will keep ingredients in place and help you create tidy, compact slices).

Make it ahead Cook the soup the day before and the brittle up to a week in advance.

Celery & Tarragon Soup Recipe on page 178

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Roasted Cauliflower & Oven-Dried Grapes Recipe on page 178

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Raw Rapini Salad Recipe on page 177

Italian Cold Cut Sando Recipe on page 177

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The Veggie Muffuletta Recipe on page 177

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Pine Nut & Rosemary Brittle Recipe on page 178

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WHAT TO SERVE Celery & Tarragon Soup This craft brew’s rich, malty texture, herbal hops and pleasant spice tones work wonderfully with the soup’s flavours and consistency. The carbonation refreshes the palate. Beau’s Country Vibes Amber Lagered Ale LCBO 19269, 473 mL, $3.45

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Italian Cold Cut Sando

Raw Rapini Salad

The Veggie Muffuletta

Pine Nut & Rosemary Brittle

Riesling’s perfectly balanced sweetness enhances the flavours of cauliflower and grapes. The crisp acidity counters the texture and the richness of the nuts and anchovies.

This foodfriendly red offers earthy red fruit and dried herb notes, and enough structure to complement and contrast the flavours and ingredients in the sando.

Cherry, spice and herb flavours harmonize with the greens, while the wine’s structure matches the intensity of the rapini and garlic, and the sharpness of the cheese.

Pilsner’s palatecleansing carbonation, crisp hops and malt flavours offer a refreshing match to the chili spice and richness of the olives, vegetables and cheese.

For an easy match, serve the orange liqueur from the recipe. Enjoy it in a snifter or on the rocks, or add it to coffee.

Fielding Riesling VQA LCBO 146761, $16.95

Ruffino Chianti LCBO 1743, $15.30

Roasted Cauliflower & Semi-Dried Grapes

Folonari Valpolicella Classico LCBO 828, $14.80

Ace Hill Pilsner LCBO 461822, 473 mL, $3.25

Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge LCBO 1784, $50.10

Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn21

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A guide to cider

What’s your style? Classically dry, pleasingly sweet or the out-of-the-ordinary new twists coming to market? No matter how you love to sip, cider has gone from niche to necessity with broad appeal. Here’s your essential guide to what’s new and how to pair it with food and even use it in cocktails. Ontario’s cidermakers are getting more creative than ever before. Our province grows the most apples in the country, so producers are able to source truckloads of fresh juice from farmers and then make their cider in places you’d never expect. You’ll find traditionalists making cider in terroir-driven organic orchards and vineyards, while others are fermenting juice in the basement of a downtown restaurant, a corner of a brewery or a sprawling barrelhouse dedicated to cider. No matter where they make it, the flavour comes down to one thing: the juice. The perfect blend of apples, from sharp to bitter to sweet, gives the cider its body, tannins and balanced flavours. Ontario boasts all of these thanks to our Great Lakes—their cooling effects protect apple harvests and nurture intense, vibrant fruit. By Crystal & Tara Luxmore PHOTOGRAPHY BY rob fiocca

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Ask a pommelier We asked Thunder Bay, Ont., native Jeannie Dubois, who is Canada’s first Certified Pommelier, to share some cider-tasting tips.

Sniff Ciders are becoming a lot more complex, so tasting it looks a lot like tasting wine. Focus on aromatics to start, and look beyond apples for notes from other fruits and botanicals.

Taste Apples range in character from sharp to sweet, so slow down and look for drying tannins and acidity, as well as sweetness. When tasting more than one cider in a session, move from driest to sweetest.

Bubbles Effervescence is very broad in cider— you can find every style from still to sparkling.

Go-to Pairing Indian curries: The sweet, tangy and spicy flavours bounce off the cider, and you’ll often find fruity notes in curries that harmonize with the apple.

HOW TO SPOT LOCAL To check if the cider you love uses 100% Ontario juice, look for the Ontario Craft Cider Association trademark on the can.

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Turkey & Apple Curry

Brewery ciders

Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

A handful of Ontario craft brew eries are also making cider, adding a naturally glutenfree beverage to their graincentric lineups. Some, like Collective Arts and Thornbury, have their own cider maker on staff, while others, such as Lost Craft, leave it to the brew ing team to create the recipe. Collective Arts Circling the Sun Applecherry Cider LCBO 13681, 473 mL, $3.75

Pouring a warm pink, it has flavours of Fuji apple and bright cherry that are balanced by zingy citrus acidity. This sparkling, semidry cider would be a great addition at the Thanksgiving table. Lost Craft Dry Rosé LCBO 20111, 473 mL, $3.50

Repurpose Thanksgiving turkey into a delicious, fruity curry that harmonizes with cider’s sweet and tart apple essence.

A blend of Ontario apples with a splash of Maréchal Foch red wine, this dry cider is perfect with a salad topped with dried cranberries. Thornbury Honeycrisp Apple Cider LCBO 15176, 473 mL, $3.45

Thornbury’s friendly cidery and brewery serve classic German style lagers alongside playful ciders flavoured with regional fruits and spices. Honeycrisp is a smooth, fullbodied sipper with a sweet nectar kiss.

Hybrid Hype

Ontario makers are blending the best of both worlds to create cider-based cocktails, wine hybrids and kombuchas mixed with cider. This past summer, LCBO stores stocked Pommies Mimosa, a mix of OJ and cider, and Pombucha, a citrusy refresher from Toronto-based smallbatch alchemist Drinklab, and we think this blend trend is just beginning. Look for more arriving next summer.

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Barrelhouse ciders Most Ontario ciders are made in barrelhouses, where makers buy fresh apple juices from farmers and then blend and ferment them inside their production facility. Some houses age in wood using the naturally occurring yeast in the juice, while others blend fruit purées and spices into freshly fermented cider to create culinary-inspired bevvies. Ernest Apple Strudel

Pommies Cider

LCBO 128009, 473 mL, $3.65

LCBO 453118, 473 mL, $3.40

All of the elements of a strudel are in this bubbly concoction: Nutmeg and cinnamon lead to apple pie notes, finishing with vanilla and pastry. Sip with pecan or fruit pie.

Made with six varieties of Ontario apples, this sparkling straw-hued tipple is like drinking a crisp, juicy Ida Red with a sweet Golden Delicious centre and a tart, clean finish.

Cider styles around the world

For the best dessert pairings, choose sweet, sparkling ciders like Ernest Apple Strudel.

Ontario’s ciders are influenced by Old World styles, from San Sebastián, Spain, to Cornwall, England. Here’s what you’ll taste.

England English cider styles range from cloudy scrumpies to commercial golden ciders like Strongbow. Try Hex Press (LCBO 13701, 473 mL, $3.55), an English-inspired tipple made with Ontario apples.

Spain

Pecan Pie Bars Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Funky and very sour, sidra is an unusual treasure from Spain’s Asturias and Basque regions. Try a tamer version with Kupela Bizia (LCBO 15161, 750 mL, $7.50), a French-Spanish hybrid.

France

Two barrelhouses on our radar Niagara Cider Founded in 2019, this cidery came out of the gate strong, winning a gold medal for its No. 1 Apple Cider (LCBO 11562, 473 mL, $3.70) at North America’s most prestigious cider awards, the Great Lakes International Cider and Perry Competition.

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Revel This tiny cidery has made a big name for itself thanks to its dedication to working only with wild Ontario yeasts and its knack for creating subtle, swoon-worthy flavours. Order direct from Revel online.

Dripping with rich apple character and complexity, Normandy cider is worth hunting down. Look for these rarities in the Vintages section or the cider aisle with these key words: “Cidre Normandie.”

New World Most New World ciders (apart from those from orchard-based producers) are made with dessert apples rather than heritage varieties and are often punched up with different fruits, herbs or spices.

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Stewards of the land From breezy orchards on the shores of Lake Huron to sunny, bountiful groves in Prince Edward County, Ontario’s farm cideries are hard-working family-run operations that plant and pick the fruit they put into each glass. This gives producers the opportunity to plant heirloom and cider apples, making beverages that showcase a unique taste of place.

Bubbly, dry farmhousestyle ciders cut through earthy, creamy vegetable pot pies.

Many farm-based cideries are certified organic, most partner with beekeeping collectives to foster productive hives and all hand-pick every apple off the tree or ground, making the most of every harvest.

Lost Orchard Project Mark and Courtney Skinner of Windswept Cider are on a mission to save the “lost orchards” around Meaford, Ont. Their Lost Orchard Cider, available in LCBO stores this past summer, is made by picking apples from wild heirloom orchards that would otherwise be left to decompose.

Spirit Tree This picturesque Caledon, Ont., cidery is one of the greenest beverage producers in the country. Its straw-bale construction requires half the energy of a traditional home to heat and cool (all done by renewable geothermal energy), and wildflowers and long grass grow between the apple trees, making for bumblebee-friendly orchards.

Roasted Butternut Squash & Mushroom Pie with Cheddar Pastry Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Spy Cider House Golden Eye Cider

Duntroon Cyder House Standing Rock

Geothermal Goodness

LCBO 11674, 473 mL, $3.50

LCBO 572594, 473 mL, $3.50

Wet stone, tea leaf and peach aromas lead to a zingy stone-fruit sip in this dry, mineral-driven cider from a geothermalpowered certified organic farm.

Jasmine and stone fruit mark the nose of this expertly produced cider from Duntroon Cyder on their farm just south of Collingwood, Ont.

Spy’s farm and ciderhouse in the Blue Mountains, Ont., are certified organic. Plus, the facility is heated by geothermal power, which draws out natural heat stored deep in the earth, keeping the tanks at a chilly -1°C, making for a clean, crisp cider.

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LOST ORCHARD IMAGE BY JESSICA CRANDLEMIRE @LIGHTANDSHADOWPHOTO; SPIRIT TREE BY JULIE BROADBENT PHOTOGRAPHY; GEOTHERMAL GOODNESS COURTESY OF SPY CIDER HOUSE AND DISTILLERY

Farm ciders

Dotted with pomegranate seeds, this highball is made for toasting.

Easy mixers Ontario ciders balance sweetness and acidity on a sparkling body, making them the perfect base for easy cocktails. Experiment at home with these combos.

Bitter-sweet Add a botanical, lightly bitter hit with gin, then amp up the sweet, floral note with elderflower liqueur.

spice is nice Add an ounce of spiced rum to a sweet cider and serve cold over ice with a squeeze of lime, or heat up with a cinnamon stick and star anise.

Pom Cider Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Go Low Cut the booze by mixing equal parts cider and kombucha for a tart sparkler, ginger beer for a spicy kick or cucumber tonic water for a light refresher.

Flavour town Apples harmonize with everything from florals to berries to warming spices in these thoughtful combinations.

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Chai

Hops

Rosé

Infused with a medley of baking spices, Liberty Village Chai Spice (LCBO 19970, 473 mL, $3.50) is also lovely when gently heated on the stovetop and served with a cinnamon stick.

Somersby Hops n’ Apples (LCBO 19961, 473 mL, $3.20) is very gently hopped with candy apple and green tea aromas. It’s a sweet cider with loads of apple flavour and a sparkling, creamy body.

Rosé ciders are taking off thanks to their pink hue and berry kiss. Niagara Rose Gold (LCBO 16150, 473 mL, $3.95) is a stunning take on the style made with strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. Its racy acidity keeps this semisweet sparkler refreshing.

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Botanical Reinhardt’s Strawberry Hibiscus (LCBO 15162, 473 mL, $3.55) marries strawberry candy with tart green apple acidity and a hibiscus tea finale.

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Vineyard ciders Situated in Ontario’s bountiful fruit belts, winemakers were naturally among the first to make craft ciders because they’re experts at working with fresh fruit juice. A handful of wineries grow their own apples, but most buy a custom blend of juice from Ontario growers and ferment it in their facilities.

Tawse Cider LCBO 569350, 473 mL,

$3.25

This semi-dry sipper, made at Tawse’s spectacular winery at the base of the Niagara Escarpment, showcases dessert apple and zingy lemon.

Whether sweet or dry, sparkling cider is the ultimate foil for buttery popcorn.

Shiny Apple Rosé LCBO 515098, 473 mL,

$3.85

Made at Small Talk Vineyards in Niagaraon-the-Lake, Ont., Shiny Rosé blends Pinot Noir with cider. Berry and plum aromas with light tannins make this cider a Pinot lover’s dream.

Ardiel Cider House Victoria Pear Cider LCBO 648410, 473 mL,

$3.45

Cracked Pepper & Honey Butter Popcorn Find the recipe at lcbo.com/fdautumn21

Founded by a fourthgeneration apple farmer, Georgian Hills Vineyards makes cider and wine in Ontario’s Blue Mountains. This elegant, blush-hued perry has refined aromas of strawberry, geranium and Bosc pear.

Cider School

Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute hosts a week-long intensive or 15-week online course in Cider and Perry Production. Developed by the grandfather of cidermaking, Peter Mitchell, this course is the first stop for many of the country’s professional cidermakers.

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Urban restaurant ciders Located in Toronto’s east end, Brickworks Ciderhouse is the first urban cidery and restaurant in Ontario. A tiny cidery housed in the basement acts as a laboratory, where cidermakers experiment by blending everything from pomace to fresh mint into their ciders. The most popular get scaled up, and the best end up on LCBO shelves. Brickworks Ciderhouse Blossomed Oak

Brickworks Ciderhouse Raspberry Peach

LCBO 19979, 473 mL, $4.25

LCBO 19966, 473 mL, $3.50

This semi-sweet cider gets its velvety vanilla flavours from French and American oak. Pair it with buttery cheeses, a coconut-milk-based curry or a soup like laksa or tom kha gai.

This cider was such a hit in the Brickworks mixed pack that it’s now being released in a single can. Tart raspberry mixes with sweet peach and light hibiscus florals in this ruby red beauty.

Ciderhouse Salad Recipe on page 166

Snack attack Cider and snacks are a match made in heaven. Virtually any cider will taste divine with a cheese and charcuterie plate with thinly sliced apples, figs or nuts as accoutrements. If that sounds like too much work, try these instant snack pairings for every type of cider.

Dry Choose a snack that’s not overbearing, like flatbread and hummus, to protect the delicate flavours of a dry, unflavoured cider.

Semi-Dry Pair any salted roasted nuts with your favourite semi-dry cider for a home-run combination. Don’t be afraid to go for a flavoured variety—anything from spiced candied nuts to tamari almonds will work.

Semi-sweet Freeze some grapes and pop them in your mouth for juicy bursts of sweetness alongside a semisweet cider, especially one that’s blended with berries or cherries.

Sweet Contrast sweet ciders with salty, spicy snacks like barbecue corn chips, spicy Doritos or Cheddar Jalapeño Cheetos.

Every dish on the Brickworks menu was designed to pair with cider. This recipe is inspired by their dreamy Ciderhouse Salad. Shop the issue at lcbo.com/ fdautumn21

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CRUSH

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ING It’s a culinary workhorse that can change its flavour profile so easily. Roasted, it’s creamy and sweet. Used raw, it’s pungent and bold. Explore garlic’s versatility to the max in these delicious dishes.

BY ERIC VELLEND PHOTOGRAPHY BY james tse

An essential pantry staple and indispensable flavour booster, garlic is rarely thought of as a seasonal ingredient. However, when it’s lovingly grown and expertly cured (that is, dried), new-season garlic is something to be celebrated. This fall, when fat, fragrant heads of local garlic are in great abundance, dig into our collection of recipes in which the stinking rose takes top billing. There’s everything from a quick weeknight pasta with end-of-season tomatoes to a comforting casserole (pictured left), a garlicky mash-up of cassoulet and baked beans. Once a few of these dishes are in your repertoire, you’ll look forward to garlic season every year.

Cassoulet-Style Baked Beans with Bacon & Garlic Recipe on page 176

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If your garden yields more tomatoes than you can possibly eat, this pasta is for you. Just toss spaghetti in a no-cook sauce of tomatoes, garlic, basil and olive oil. Top with tangy goat cheese, and you’re done!

Spaghetti with Garlicky Raw Tomato Sauce & Goat Cheese Recipe on page 176

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Slow-Roasted Chicken with Four Heads of Garlic Four heads of garlic are roasted alongside plump chicken legs until the cloves are soft and sweet. Crusty bread is the perfect vehicle for the creamy garlic and punchy pan juices.

Recipe on page 174

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The Best Garlic Bread Recipe on page 176

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A staple of red-sauce joints since the ’50s, garlic bread is ready for a comeback. This version features garlic two ways—roasted, for its caramel sweetness, and raw, for its bite. Soft, crunchy, buttery and cheesy, this is the best garlic bread you’ve ever had.

Squash Tart with Garlic Confit, Gruyère & Rosemary

The real star of this autumnal tart is oil-preserved garlic confit. It’s dead simple to make and great to have on hand to flavour dressings, steamed broccoli or mashed potatoes.

Recipe on page 174

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TRENDSETTERS

Clockwise from the top: planning image for the exterior of Three Fires; an appetizer that Billy Alexander has been working on for the menu, Three Fires Chef Billy Alexander (left) and industry colleague Dan Peltier (right).

Leaders of the pack Shining the spotlight on 30+ locals who are turning big ideas into reality. By Victoria Walsh

Indigenous cuisine takes centre stage

Billy Alexander

IMAGES COURTESY OF CALDWELL FIRST NATION

Executive chef and culinary advisor, Caldwell First Nation When it comes to talent and innovation, Ontario’s cup runneth over with places and people setting trends and making a difference in the realm of drinks and food. Even through unprecedented times, these extraordinary individuals and companies have continued to build, raising the bar for what’s possible. Whether focusing on social justice or sustainability or creative retail innovations, each deserves recognition for their influential achievements. This list, as nominated by our Food & Drink editors, is by no means complete (there’s just too much homegrown brilliance to celebrate!), but we hope you’ll be as inspired as we are!

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Caldwell First Nation opens restaurant and the first Indigenous-owned winery in Eastern Canada. “Call Indigenous cuisine a trend if you want,” says Billy Alexander, executive chef and culinary advisor for Caldwell First Nation, in Leamington, Ont. “But if Indigenous cuisine is a trend, it’s the oldest food trend in North America,” he quips. “We have been here for a minimum of 14,000 years and living this way for that and longer.” From charcuterie to seasonal eating to sustainable approaches to growing and harvesting food, some of the most popular food trends of the past two decades are foundational to Indigenous cooking. “Our culture has shaped many cultures’ ideas of food,” agrees Alexander. Ontarians can make that connection for themselves

sometime this fall when he and Caldwell First Nation open Three Fires: an Indigenous Culinary Experience along the north shore of Lake Erie (now known as Leamington, Ont.). The restaurant and event space, which overlooks Sturgeon Creek, aims to be a showcase for Indigenous cuisine and hospitality. And it’s being done on a grand scale: Three Fires can accommodate over 600 guests. (The opening is contingent upon construction restrictions due to COVID-19 being eased.) The menu offerings will be seasonally inspired and make use of local ingredients. There will be game, but Alexander wants to dispel the myth that Indigenous food is entirely carnivorous, so there’ll be veg-

etarian and vegan offerings, too. He also plans to incorporate traditional medicines into food, adding sweetgrass to preserves and sauces. Serendipity saw Three Fires gain a vineyard. After Caldwell First Nation won its land claim in 2020, they discovered two and a half acres of vines, and upon assessing the viability of the plot for wine cultivation, planted more grapes. The organic Indigenous- owned winery will be the first in Eastern Canada. For Alexander, the vineyard adds a future-facing element to the overall experience of Indigenous cuisine and hospitality he hopes to create: “We will do it in a way that speaks to who we are.”

— Flannery Dean

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LEADERS OF THE PACK Sustainability Champions Thinking outside the box, these people and places are getting creative when it comes to recycling, and reducing waste and their carbon footprint.

B is for Beau’s, beer—and B Corps Tim and Steve Beauchesne, Co-founders, Beau’s Brewing Co. Certified B Corporations globally meet strict standards for caring for the environment, their employees and the community. Beau’s became the first Canadian brewery to qualify in 2014— and still inspires others to follow their lead. The brewery treats its waste water, sends its spent goods to be used at local farms and runs on renewable energy. In 2016, father and son founders Tim and Steve Beauchesne sold the brewery to the employees. Taste the benefits in Beau’s Local Organic pale ale (LCBO 19358, 473 mL, $3.95), Canada’s only certified carbon-neutral and organic beer.

Ramage recommends sustainontario.com to find resources available near you.

zero-waste bar star

Kelsey Ramage Owner, Dolly Trolley Drinks, and co-founder, The Trash Collective

Cream of The Crop Omid McDonald, Founder and CEO, Dairy Distillery A sugary liquid called milk permeate was considered a waste product, but Omid McDonald saw its potential. With the University of Ottawa, he perfected a process to distill it into Vodkow (LCBO 11573, $33.05), a clean, crisp vodka with a smooth finish. It’s also the base for Vodkow Cream (LCBO 18224, $29.95), “the only lactose-free cream liqueur in North America,” McDonald proudly declares.

Collaboration celebration Look for the limited-edition Almonte Friendship Series at the LCBO this holiday season. It features Vodkow cream liqueurs made with local Equator Coffee, Hummingbird Chocolate and Fulton’s Maple Syrup. — Charlene Rooke

As the head barkeep at one of London’s best drinking holes five years ago, Canadian Kelsey Ramage witnessed how much waste—from produce to plastic straws— the bar industry created and took note of its non-sustainable practices. She and partner Iain Griffiths created innovative products and solutions (like a citrus “stock” made from once-juiced hulls) served at global pop-up events that were so popular, they started a sustainability-focused hospitality company, The Trash Collective.

Ramage came back to Canada to open a highly anticipated bar, Supernova Ballroom, in Toronto in 2019; when it closed in early 2020, she pivoted to creating bottled cocktails under the Dolly Trolley Drinks brand. “Now, sustainability just seems like a normal part of how I make drinks,” she says. Not only bartenders and imbibers but drinks producers have followed her lead: She’s been a Global Sustainability Ambassador for spirits company Pernod Ricard, encouraging conversations

around everything from earth-friendly distilling practices to recyclable packaging. Ramage’s future plans include reopening Supernova Ballroom and creating training opportunities for bartenders, including those from under-represented and minority groups. Her advice to help keep your consumer footprint small, “Whether it’s finding a fresh produce box to order online or choosing a local bookstore for a cocktail book you want, shop at local places.”

— Charlene Rooke

More people to follow: @spentgoods @southbrookvineyards @cowbellbrewing 124

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PORTRAIT BY 1PROJECT; COCKTAIL BY SUECH AND BECK

The International Bartender of the Year at the 2020 Spirited Awards, sustainability pioneer Kelsey Ramage is helping raise the bar for her industry.

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LEADERS OF THE PACK Change-Makers Making the food and beverage space better, safer, more thoughtful and equitable.

Inspiring initiatives

Ren Navarro Educator and owner, Beer. Diversity. Ren Navarro is expanding the horizons of brew culture. When asked what kicked off the idea for her com pany, Ren Navarro recalls the moment she realized that she and her friends, who she describes as “the United Nations of beer drinkers,” weren’t really represented anywhere in the industry she’d been a part of for nearly a decade. In 2018, Navarro decided to do something about that blind spot and cre ated her consulting com pany, Beer. Diversity. Her services are twofold, one part providing consulta tion and education with restaurants to discuss di versification of products offered, and the second part, arguably the most important, talking about diversity in a bigger way. Hosting for companies

big and small, Navarro’s sessions are conversa tional and often include a tasting and plenty of open discussion. Since the pandem ic, these sessions are hosted online, which lets people attend from the comfort of their own home. Demand for her talks has only increased during the pandemic as social justice issues and the Black Lives Matter movement have become more prominent in the mainstream. Initially she found there were often fears around the word diversity, because it seemed so big and daunt ing to people, but now she’s noticing “people are tripping over themselves to include more BIPOC,

Suzanne Barr Chef, author and activist Suzanne Barr works directly with the hospitality industry to address racism and structural inequalities within the food system. Look for her upcoming memoir with recipes, Homecoming, as well as her line of Afro-Caribbean-influenced healthy snacks, both set to debut next spring. @suzanne_barr_food

Community Fridges Toronto When the pandemic increased food insecurity, this volunteer-run, donation-based food-sharing network, Community Fridges Toronto launched. As per their slogan, “Take what you need, leave what you can,” the organization allows restaurants and people to donate food that’s then accessed by those in need across a network of fridges in Toronto. @cf___to

Feed the Frontlines TO Started by Adair Roberts, this donationbased organization hits a good-deed grand slam. Local restaurants prepare delicious meals for health-care workers, social services staff and people experiencing food insecurity. Consequently, Feed the Frontlines TO nourishes the community, employs people who’ve lost their jobs and supports those facing the pandemic head-on. @feedthefrontlinesTO

Mohamad Fakih Paramount Fine Foods CEO and founder Mohamad Fakih is a philanthropist and community leader. His respected achievements include rallying to support a Toronto-based Syrian restaurant after it received racist threats, helping to orchestrate gratitude meals for health-care workers and being heavily involved in the recent Sadaqa Project, which helped deliver 10,000 meals to people in need from all backgrounds during the holy time of Ramadan. @ceo_mohamad.paramount

More people to follow: @joshnamaharaj, @katferries, @dandelioninitiative, @gladdaybookshop 126

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PORTRAIT BY MONA MOUSA

Taking Beer Forward

more LGBTQ+, more peo ple with disabilities and people of whatever age or backgrounds. We are all in the same boat—it’s just different sections of the boat.” Necessary conversa tions about representation and inclusivity are not just pertinent to beer culture, Navarro says. “The com pany name has become a misnomer. It was called Beer. Diversity. because that’s what I knew. You take out the name ‘beer’ and put in your indus try, and this is legit the same problem [across industries].” To encourage greater mentorship and leadership opportunities for younger racialized and margin alized people, Navarro has also started Do Better, Be Better, a hospitality centric company. In addi tion to her podcast, Ren Likes to Talk, she has an app (Beer. Diversity.) that’s rooted in her inclusion work. “It’s basically me in your pocket,” she says. Like her companies, she uses it as a forum for speaking on a wide range of topics re lated to diversity. The app will also feature experts on various subjects and allow subscribers to reach out to do what Navarro does best: “open up a conversation.”

Learn about the people and organizations who are making a difference in the food world in Ontario.

Please enjoy responsibly

LEADERS OF THE PACK Drinks with Heart Makers and shakers finding ways to give back to their communities Community Builders Created by chef Randy Feltis, this sweet liqueur (LCBO 11292, 375 mL, $17.95) is made with honey-bee-pollinated flowers, herbs, spices and roots. Committed to building a sustainable local environment for pollinators, Feltis works with community apiaries contributing to the success of nearby hives. For approximately every 1 1⁄2 oz of elixir sold, 1 honeybee is introduced to Barrie-area hives.

Sleeping Giant Brewing Company Within a month of the pandemic announcement, Sleeping Giant set up an inhouse daycare for its employees. It has since moved the daycare across the street and oﬀers services to not only its employees but also the larger community. Co-founder and CEO Andrea Mulligan hopes this will inspire other businesses (and we do too!). Show your support by trying their tasty Sleeping Giant Northern Logger (LCBO 445734, 473 mL, $3.15).

Flat Rock Good Kharma Chardonnay VQA 2020 This is a great-value, palatepleasing wine available at the LCBO (VINTAGES 356873, $16.95), but beyond the LCBO, Wine Country Ontario offers a Box Full of Good Kharma, which includes this Chardonnay, plus local delicacies, such as Pinot Noir vinegar, local honey and kettle chips. $30 from each box purchased buys a Feed Ontario Emergency Food Box.

The Bartenders Benevolent Fund The Bartenders Benevolent Fund has helped hundreds of Canadian hospitality workers during the pandemic. In just over a year and could be for precariously The BBF, which relies a half, the Bartenders employed hospitality on large donations from Benevolent Fund (BBF) workers like his friend. big spirits brands, as has evolved from a “There’s no sick pay, no well as community and Toronto-based nonbenefits, nothing” for individual donations, profit helping local hospitality workers, he offers four main financial bartenders and servers says. “If you don’t work, supports to hospitality into a national support you don’t make money.” workers. “The emergency system for the many For Gray, the panrelief fund is our core supthousands of hospitaldemic underlined how port,” says Gray, “but we ity workers struggling vulnerable hospitality also offer a mental health to pay their bills due to workers are when disasfund and a tax return COVID-19 restrictions. ter strikes. In March 2020, fund to pay for people to The fund started in and after getting a large do their taxes.” 2013 to help a friend who donation from a spirits The BBF also encourhad broken his neck in brand, the non-profit exages greater diversity in an accident and couldn’t panded from a Torontothe industry through work as a result, says Jon based industry aid to a initiatives like its BIPOC Gray, the fund’s director national support. Since scholarship for entry-level and co-founder. Working then, it has distributed workers. In the future, the as a bartender at the more than $720,000 to BBF wants to “ramp up” time, Gray understood approximately 1,300 those offerings. Says Gray: how catastrophic an un- workers, with $305,000 “We want to use the platexpected bit of bad luck of the money going to form COVID-19 has given Ontarians alone. us to create more equity in our national landscape.”

— Flannery Dean

Supporting the cocktail industry Along with donating to the Bartenders Benevolent Fund, Moët Hennessy Canada has worked with some of Canada’s top mixologists to put together a limitededition cocktail magazine, Coming Together, with sales proceeds going to its recipe contributors. Learn more about the project and get delicious recipes by ordering a copy at mhcomingtogether.com.

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BOOK IMAGE COURTESY OF MOËT HENNESSY IN CANADA

Honey Bee Elixir

LEADERS OF THE PACK

Retail revolutionaries These innovators know what we are looking for before we do. Only a decade ago, an elegant cocktail-mixing glass, weighted shaker tins or the cocktail bitters, tinctures and syrups pro bartenders use were out of reach for most Canadians. Retail pioneers like online store The Crafty Bartender and Toronto’s Cocktail Emporium boutiques changed all that. Here’s how, in their own words.

Co-founders, TheCraftyBartender.com “Ten years ago, we were living in Toronto and couldn’t get the bar tools or ingredients we saw in cocktail books. Our local bar was The Harbord Room, and once we started importing items, it caught on by word of mouth. We’d get invited to events where we’d set up a little table and sell stuff to bartenders. Stores started reaching out to carry the products. “In the past few years, we’re focusing on Canadian brands—there are so many making great bitters, syrups and other ingredients. Our clientele includes industry, home cocktail enthusiasts, and now virtual event coordinators and cocktail companies. People who have never owned a shaker are creating elaborate cocktails at home! “For us, e-commerce has always been the way to go. But we love when people phone, because we can ask them, ‘What do you drink?’ or say, ‘You should really try this!’” — Charlene Rooke

Kristen Voisey Founder, Cocktail Emporium (three Toronto locations) “When we opened our first store in 2011 on Queen Street West, it was the beginning of the Toronto cocktail culture boom. Now our customers are anyone from the beginner home bartender to some of the best pro bartenders in the world—we have everyone’s budget and level. “I love being able to introduce new, exciting products to the Canadian market, including our own Potion House line.

We are always adding unique glassware designs and fun ingredients. We have also had great success with our cocktail gift sets for both corporate groups and individuals. “We have so many different unique bars here and passionate bartenders. I think Toronto can stand up to New York, London and Paris these days in the — Charlene Rooke cocktail arena.”

More people to follow: @forbeswildfoods @scoutcanning @kitchenhub 130

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COCKTAIL EMPORIUM SHOP IMAGE BY KAILEE MANDEL; LIFESTYLE IMAGE BY KRISTY BOYCE; PORTRAIT OF KENNEDY AND DONNA PIRE BY JESSICA BLAINE SMITH

Kennedy and Donna Pire

TRAILBLAZERS

Barrelling forward

Inspiring Ontario with cutting-edge products and services.

Sign us up! When dine-in and after-work drinks were lost to COVID-19 restrictions, these purveyors found creative ways to deliver the goods. Bespoke mocktails at home Toronto-based cocktail queens Evelyn Chick and Amanda Chen always wanted to start a cocktail subscription service. COVID-19 restrictions just played the role of “catalyst,” says Chick. Their Stay at Home Cocktail Club delivers three seasonally inspired mocktail recipes (making nine drinks total)— and the ingredients to make them—to homes across Canada for just $45 a month. Should you want to level up, the recipes come with spirits suggestions you can add to the mix from your home bar. stayathomecocktailclub.com

Artisanal pizza, any time General Assembly Pizza has upped the frozen pie game with its pizza subscription service, which launched in September 2020. The Toronto-based artisanal pizza maker now allows pie fans to order anywhere from four to ten of its 10-inch naturally leavened pizzas (delivered frozen) for as low as $39 per month. The pizzas, which are ready to eat in under 10 minutes, are available for delivery in select postal codes in Southwestern Ontario. gapizza.com/products/ subscription

For that handmade ramen experience Guelph-area handmade noodle haven Crafty Ramen caters to the cravings of the authentic noodle bar fan. Its fresh ramen subscription service lets you choose from a selection of slurp-worthy options, from spicy negi (vegan) to Kaizen warrior pork (broth and fresh ingredients are included in the order). Co-founders Jared and Miki Ferrell attended the Yamato School of Ramen together, so you’re guaranteed an authentic experience. Kits start at $32. Crafty Ramen delivers throughout Southwestern Ontario.

More than 20 years ago, a hike inspired Hamilton physician Jim Hedges: Could Canada’s white oaks make wine- and whisky-aging barrels as distinctive as Europe’s? With McMaster University’s Dr. Mike Risk, he set to experimenting. Many vintages of fine Canadian oak-aged wines and spirits, like Forty Creek’s Confederation Oak Reserve Whisky (LCBO 195651, $69.95), have since proved him right. Today, a renaissance is underway. Artisans such as Pete Bradford and Damien Matthews have revived the art of barrelmaking and repair in Ontario wine country in the past decade. At County Cooperage in Carp, Joe Thomson is prepping to make his first new barrels and open a tasting room that could feature wine, spirits and even maple syrup or hot sauce aged in them. “A Canadianmade barrel just adds to the story, especially if people can visit the cooperage and see where it’s made,” he says. At Spring Mill Distillery in Guelph, coopering apprentice Quinn Sleeman is repairing and maintaining whisky-aging barrels, hoping one day to make his own. Having already studied in Scotland and Missouri, “I plan on travelling to Spain and France to learn more,” Sleeman says. — Charlene Rooke

craftyramen.com

— Flannery Dean

More people to follow: @bartenderatlas @coupeandmixer @liqculture 132

Great wine and whisky require great barrels, and a handful of Ontarians are reviving the craft of making them in our own backyard—even from Canadian oak.

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STAY AT HOME COCKTAIL CLUB BY EVELYN CHIC; GENERAL ASSEMBLY PIZZA BY VINCE NOGUCHI; CRAFTY RAMEN BY JONATHON BARRABALL AT DILETTANTE HOSPITALITY; COUNTY COOPERAGE BY PAULSANDERSONPHOTOGRAPHY

LEADERS OF THE PACK

NEW GINGER

FLAVOURED GIN

EXCEPTIONALLY SMOOTH UNGAVA SIGNATURE

WITH A HINT OF SPICE

UNIQUELY CANADIAN GIN

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That’s Amaro! Straight up, on the rocks, with a twist or in a cocktail, there’s no wrong way to drink amaro. Get to know one of the world’s most versatile spirits with this guide to Italian bitters. By Christine Sismondo | photography by darren kemper

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In many Italian households, the best way to cap off a special dinner is with a glass of amaro, served neat. Amaro, which means “bitter” in Italian, was originally invented as a health tonic for stomach aches, which is how after-dinner digestivo culture got its start. Since many are still being made according to the original recipe, some taste slightly medicinal— but in a good way. Because most amaro is made from family recipes that involve umpteen different herbs and spices, they don’t really need a lot of help in the flavour department. But that doesn’t stop bartenders, many of whom are obsessed with amaro, from trying to put their own spin on these bitter spirits by showcasing them in new cocktails.

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THAT’S AMARO!

Cocktail hour Whether it’s the main ingredient or a potent modifier that can transform a drink with a small splash, amaro has become such a cocktail essential that it’s widely known as a “bartender’s secret weapon.”

Paperino

Capo Americano

Monte Mula

Amaro Montenegro

Caffo Vecchio Amaro del Capo

Amaro Lucano

LCBO 601484, $27.70

LCBO 16081, $31.20

LCBO 285163, $25.15

Since it’s low in alcohol and cocktail-friendly, this amaro from Bologna, Italy, can be used instead of a lot of higher-proof spirits to make a lighter low-ABV drink.

The world-famous herbs from the southern Italian region of Calabria—expertly blended and bottled up. Serve chilled to savour the mint, chamomile and licorice.

Made according to a secret recipe dating back to 1894, this is one of the more complex blends currently being made. Perfect for both mixing and straight sipping.

Less is More

Did you know?

Much like the Scoville scale for spice, there is also a measure for bitterness—International Bitterness Units (IBU). And while all amaro is bitter, there’s a wide range, from the ones with a gentle sting to those that tip the IBU scale right over.

Amaro shines in simple cocktails with dry, straightforward ingredients. And since it’s so versatile, you can often swap in a different brand and find the recipe still works. Find these recipes on page 165.

PAIRING AMARO Though they may taste bitter, all amaro recipes contain sugar to tone down the sharpness, so steer clear of mixing it with liqueurs, simple syrup and other sweet ingredients.

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tonic water

lemon

Adding bitter tonic to amaro sounds wrong but tastes so right.

Citrus, especially lemon, punches back some of the boldest bitter notes in amaro.

mint

Cream

Fresh mint can help bring Although amaro can be a bully out a herbal amaro’s in a drink, cream magically hidden fragrant notes. mellows out its sharp edges.

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SAVE $1 NOW $10.95 (September 13 - October 10)

SmartPoints® value per 5 oz (148 mL) serving

THAT’S AMARO!

After dinner

AMARO BY THE NUMBERS In Italy, there are too many brands of amaro to count. But here are some numbers we know for sure.

Purists will usually opt to drink straight amaro as their dessert, but with its layers of flavour and underlying laid-back sweetness, amaro is a great base for dessert cocktails and spiked coffee.

1845

CREMA CORRETTO This simple drink is inspired by Italian café corretto, which literally means “fixing” coffee by adding a splash of liquor to it.

The year Fernet-Branca, one of the oldest on the market, was invented by a Milanese herbalist looking for a cure for cholera.

2 oz Amaro Amara d’Arancia Rossa 1 oz whipping cream 3/4 oz espresso 2 chocolate sticks, like Pocky, for garnish

1 Shake amaro, cream and espresso over ice for 45 seconds. Strain into an ice-filled rocks glass and garnish with chocolate sticks.

The number of botanicals in Amaro Montenegro’s secret formula, perfected over a century ago.

Makes 1 drink

Did you know? Although many have never heard of a fernet other than Branca, “fernet” actually refers to an entire style of amaro—the bitterest kind. Fernet-Branca is the most famous of these, thanks to a global cult following, especially in Argentina, where fernet and Coke is the nation’s favourite cocktail.

The number of basic styles of amaro, ranging from light to intensely bitter.

Digestivo trifecta No two amaros are the same, but this is a particularly diverse selection. What they all have in common is that they’ll hit the spot after a special celebratory meal.

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Fernet-Branca

Poli Vaca Mora Amaro

LCBO 220145, 500 mL, $23.75

LCBO 662726, 700 mL, $41.60

Amaro Amara d’Arancia Rossa LCBO 10752, $45.95

Earthy, bold and intensely bitter, Fernet-Branca is definitely not for everyone. It has its loyal fans, though— to the point where some bars in the United States even have it on tap.

One of the best straight-sipping amaros we’ve tried, this Northern Italian expression is exceptionally dry and has a fresh and minty flavour profile.

Made with Sicilian blood oranges, this light and aromatic spirit is brilliant over ice. Alternatively, give an old cocktail new life by swapping it in for orange liqueur.

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Ancient symbol of alcohol / Ancien symbole des alcools

By Michael Elliott | Photography by darren kemper

Ready, set, chill!

QUICK & EASY

Keep the fridge stocked with these marinated salads that make healthy eating during the week a snap, and cut down on mealtime work. It’s hard to eat healthily sometimes, but having your fridge full of ready-to-go salads certainly helps. These simple veggie sides, somewhere between a salad and a pickle, come together quickly and last a good week in the fridge. You can double any of the recipes, although cooking times may be increased.

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BEET & HORSERADISH SALAD Recipe on page 165

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Caraway Cabbage Slaw Inspired by an old Winnipeg family recipe but with a bit less sugar, this salad is best after a week or so. It is the perfect side for a burger and crispy fries. 1⁄2 medium cabbage 1⁄4 large onion 2 medium carrots, peeled 1⁄3 cup (80 mL) white vinegar 1 1⁄2 tsp (7 mL) yellow mustard 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) caraway seeds or 1 tsp (5 mL) dill seeds 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) neutral oil, such as canola

1 Thinly slice the cabbage and onion. Grate the carrot and place vegetables in a bowl. 2 In a small saucepan, bring the vinegar, mustard, caraway seeds, sugar and salt to a boil. 3 Pour the hot vinegar mixture over the vegetables and mix well; add the oil. 4 Let cool, then pack tightly into a covered container. Keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, mixing occasionally. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Sweet strawberry and melon notes in this rosé provide a pleasant contrast and complement to the lightly pungent and sweet flavours in the slaw. Girls’ Night Out Rosé VQA LCBO 89862, $13.95

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The character of Sangiovese and the fascination of Cabernet Sauvignon together yield an intense wine, with scents of sour black cherry and subtle hints of vanilla and spice.

SAVE $500 From September 13th to October 10th

AVAILABLE IN THE VINTAGES SECTION

+225086 | $27.95

Please drink responsibly

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. 1308/2013

READY, SET, CHILL! TURKISH-STYLE GREEN BEANS An easy make-ahead recipe, these beans are good right off the stove but even better after they sit for a few hours. They’re great with rice and grilled fish. 1 large onion, sliced 1⁄2 inch (1 cm) thick 1 lb (455 g) green beans, trimmed 1 medium lemon, divided 1 large tomato, sliced 1⁄2 inch (1 cm) thick 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) olive oil 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) salt 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) crumbled feta (optional) 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) roughly chopped dill (optional)

1 Place the onion at the bottom of a heavy saucepan with a well-ﬁtting lid. Layer the green beans on top of onion. Slice 1⁄2 of the lemon into 3 or 4 rounds and layer on top of beans. Top with a layer of tomato slices and olive oil. 2 Season with salt and place a piece of parchment paper slightly larger than the pot directly onto the tomato slices. 3 Cover and cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to low and cook until the beans are tender, 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the type and age of beans. Let cool, squeeze juice from remaining lemon half on top. Mix well. 4 Serve immediately or transfer to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 1 week. 5 Let come to room temperature before serving. Garnish with feta and dill, if desired. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE This Sauvignon Blanc’s palate-refreshing acidity and flavours of herbs, green fruit and citrus will heighten the bean, tomato and herbal elements in the salad. Creekside Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 620724, $15.95

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

FROM KENTUCKY, WITH LOVE LCBO Director’s Cut 3.0 is back by popular demand. Scoop up your bottle of Maker’s Mark Private Selection—with Ontario-exclusive flavours of salted caramel, brown sugar, and dark fruit—before it sells out. Again.

EXCLUSIVE 3.0 Jane Bowie, Master of Maturation and Director of Innovation at Maker’s Mark, explains the distillery’s passion for its Private Selection Program.

Maker’s Mark has been doing one thing well for 70 years— why change the model? We wanted do something special for our friends and customers, where they can describe their perfect expression of Maker’s and we build a barrel, age it, and bottle it for them. Now, people can curate with us and explore new taste profiles, whether it’s a sushi restaurant in Japan or the LCBO in Ontario. Why is Private Selection more relevant than ever in 2021? Let’s face it: Whisky’s fun, and we absolutely need that now. We eat and drink for fellowship; it’s a way to come together over a dram. After three years, has the demand for LCBO Director’s Cut been a surprise? The LCBO team comes in with the flavour preferences of its consumers top of mind, and they should be very proud of the thought that goes into this whisky. To know there are so many people in Ontario excited to taste it makes us appreciate our little distillery even more.

“We embarked on a journey that blended art and science, and involved various flavours influenced by five wood staves with over 1,000 possibilities! The result is a beautifully unique liquid exclusive to Ontario.” - LCBO Spirits Team IN-STORES FALL 2021

ORIGINS

Whisky business We get you ready for fireside sipping with a guide to mastering three classic whisky cocktails. By Jessica Huras photography by Maya Visnyei

When it comes to crafting the perfect whisky cocktail, less is more. A few carefully chosen ingredients can enhance this complex spirit, bringing out its deeper dimensions without overpowering its nuanced flavours. This simplicity is the cornerstone of the most classic whisky cocktails: the Sour, the Manhattan and the Old Fashioned. Requiring just a handful of bar cart basics, these tried-andtrue cocktails are easy enough for beginner mixologists to tackle while also giving seasoned whisky enthusiasts a new way to appreciate their usual on-the-rocks drams.

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WHISKY BUSINESS

The Sour This timeless cocktail offers a refreshing balance of sweet and tart. History

The origins of sour cocktails like the Whisky Sour can be traced back to the 18th century. Spirits were the preferred drink of sailors because, unlike beer, they would not spoil during long sea voyages. To combat scurvy, sailors often added lemons or limes to their drinks, along with sugar to improve the taste of the concoction. Sound like a familiar mix?

While not essential, egg white smooths out the Sour’s tart flavour profile and adds a lovely frothy texture to your drink.

TWIST Top your Sour with about 1 oz red wine to make a variation known as a New York Sour. Pour the red wine into your glass slowly, over the back of a spoon, to help it float on top of the drink, creating an eye-catching colour gradient.

Recommendations For bourbon, try Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey (LCBO 547729, $49.95), which balances the Sour’s tangy characteristics with its sweet peach and toffee flavours. For rye, Lot No. 40 Single Copper Pot Still Canadian Whisky (LCBO 382861, $39.95) is a local option with a spicy finish that enhances the Sour’s citrus notes.

No shaker? No problem. Use a Mason jar or any other sturdy vessel with a lid that seals.

Basic recipe

2 oz bourbon or rye whisky

3⁄4 oz fresh lemon juice

1⁄2 to 3⁄4 oz simple syrup, to taste

1⁄2 oz egg white (optional)

Orange wheel or lemon peel for garnish

Add bourbon, lemon juice, simple syrup and egg white, if using, to a cocktail shaker. Cover and dry-shake for 30 seconds without ice (skip this step if you’re not using egg white). Add ice, cover and shake vigorously until outside of shaker feels cold. Strain into a chilled glass filled with ice. Garnish with orange wheel. Makes 1 drink.

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CANADIAN CLUB 44 YO ISSUE NO. 4 – THE WHISKY SIXES TM

FROM THE LIQUID BARRELED IN 1977 WE WILL BE BRINGING YOU ISSUE NO. 4…

THE WHISKY SIXES. WITH THIS 4TH RELEASE, WE PAY HOMAGE TO THE NOTORIOUS ROADSTERS USED BY BOOTLEGGERS TO SMUGGLE WHISKY ACROSS THE DETROIT RIVER DURING THE WINTER MONTHS, AS WELL AS CELEBRATE CANADIAN CLUB, THE UNOFFICIAL WHISKY OF PROHIBITION AND A TRUE ORIGINAL FOR OVER 160 YEARS.

WHISKY BUSINESS

The Manhattan Elegant and richly flavoured, the Manhattan is a drink made for savouring. History

True to its namesake, the Manhattan is believed to have been invented in New York City. It may have been developed at the Manhattan Club in the 1870s, while other accounts tie it to a bar on Broadway near Houston Street. The earliest written mention of the drink appeared in 1882.

TWISTS Try replacing the vermouth with Averna Amaro (LCBO 570002, $27.10) for a pleasantly bitter twist. Or swap out the vermouth for 1/2 oz amaro and 1/2 oz cold brew coffee for a richer flavour profile. This variation, the Coffee Manhattan, is the LCBO’s October Cocktail of the Month; visit lcbo.com/fdcocktail to watch this drink being made.

A cherry is a traditional garnish for a Manhattan. Luxardo Italian cherries offer a more mellow alternative to the candied sweetness of maraschino cherries.

Be sure to stir your Manhattan rather than shaking it. While both techniques effectively mix the ingredients, shaking also changes the texture of the drink and creates a cloudy appearance. This is the ideal effect for some cocktails, but not the Manhattan, which is meant to have a clean, crystal-clear aesthetic.

Recommendations Opt for bourbon, such as Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey (LCBO 54866, $41.45), when you’re in the mood for something sweet. Choose a rye whisky, such as Rittenhouse Straight Rye Whisky 100 Bottled in Bond (LCBO 230813, $49.95), for a drier, more savoury cocktail.

Basic recipe

2 oz bourbon or rye whisky

1 oz sweet vermouth

2 or 3 dashes Angostura bitters

Luxardo Italian cherries for garnish

Add bourbon, vermouth and bitters to a mixing glass filled with ice. Stir until well-chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe or serving glass. Garnish with cherries. Makes 1 drink.

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WHISKY BUSINESS

The Old Fashioned Silky smooth and spirit-forward, this grande dame of cocktails may have a long history, but it never goes out of style. TWIST Try the Brandy Old Fashioned, a twist popular in Wisconsin that sees the whisky replaced with brandy. The sugar cube is typically muddled with orange slices and a cherry, and the cocktail is finished with a glug of lemon-lime soda.

History

Many bars claim to have invented the Old Fashioned, most notably Louisville’s Pendennis Club, which may have been the first to serve it, in the 1880s, according to some accounts.

Recommendations Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon (LCBO 266072, $54.40) offers flavourful notes of wood spice, stone fruit and dill that cut through the ice dilution and stand up to the sweetness of the sugar. Maker’s Mark 46 (LCBO 225565, $56.95) also delivers the big, full-bodied taste this simple cocktail calls for.

Angostura bitters are the standard in an Old Fashioned, but you can experiment with other types of aromatic bitters or try Dillon’s Orange Bitters (LCBO 463398, 100 mL, $14.95) for a citrusy kick.

Large ice cubes do more than give your cocktail a stylish appearance. Their larger surface area melts slower than smaller cubes or crushed ice, preserving your drink’s strong flavour.

Basic recipe

1 sugar cube or 1/2 tsp (2 mL) sugar

3 dashes Angostura bitters

2 oz bourbon or rye whiskey

Orange peel for garnish

Add sugar and bitters to a rocks glass. Muddle and stir until sugar is nearly dissolved. Add bourbon and stir. Fill glass with a single large ice cube and gently stir until chilled. Express oil of orange peel over glass before dropping in. Makes 1 drink.

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HARVEST FRUIT FUSION: INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

¼ sweet red apple, thinly sliced ¼ green apple, thinly sliced 2 lemon wheels 2-3 cinnamon sticks 2-3 dashes pumpkin spice 1 scoop ice 1 oz premium maple syrup 1 sprig rosemary 1.5 pints Strongbow Original Dry

1. Fill your carafe or pitcher ¼ of the way with the apple, lemon, syrup and spice 2. Add the scoop of ice 3. Pour Strongbow over the ingredients and give it a stir with a long bar spoon 4. Serve the carafe alongside glassware garnished with an apple wheel and cinnamon stick 5. Enjoy responsibly

*fruit is seasonal – swap for a better choice when necessary!

The Passion of italy in Every Bottle Available at select grocers across Ontario

BASICS

Batch work Enjoy the robust flavours of the fall season all year round by preserving fruits and vegetables at their peak of freshness. It’s easier than you might think! By Jennifer MacKenzie photography by rob fiocca

TOMATO, CORN & PEPPER SALSA Recipe on page 168

Whether you grow your own vegetables or buy up baskets of produce from local farms, preserving the harvest bounty with home canning is a smart and delicious way to stock your pantry for the long, cold winter ahead—and use up your fresh haul. If you’ve never attempted it before, the process can be

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intimidating (everyone has heard the warnings of canning gone bad!) and does take some effort, but with our 101 lesson, you’ll gain the confidence to venture into home canning and avoid disaster. For the how-to and equipment primer, we’re reprising “Preserving Summer” by

Eshun Mott from our Summer 2010 issue (thank you, Eshun!), plus adding our tips, planning advice and food safety basics. Once you’ve got a handle on the techniques, we’ve got four new preserve recipes—both sweet and savoury—in manageable batch sizes so you can wield your new-found skills.

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BATCH WORK

The basics The basic premise of preserving, otherwise known as “canning,” is that raw or cooked fruits and vegetables are packed into jars with appropriate liquids. They’re then heated to kill off bacteria, which would cause spoilage, and to create a partial vacuum, which produces a tight seal and allows us to keep food for a long time without it becoming contaminated. But that is only the beginning. Acidic foods, such as many fruits, are easily preserved in a boiling water canner, because their acidity inactivates enzymes and potentially poisonous bacteria. Low-acid fruits and vegetables may be pickled or cooked into sauces and chutneys with added acid to achieve the necessary safe acid level, or else they must be preserved at the high heat you can only achieve in a specialized pot called a pressure canner. All this is to say that as a beginner, you are best off following a current, tested recipe and doing some how-to reading. We’re giving you the basics here. When you’re ready to dive in, seek out a recently published canning cookbook (no more than 15 years old) or reputable online sources (those that talk about science and food safety!) for more in-depth info.

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Shop hardware and large grocery stores for supplies; stock up early in the season.

The gear: equipment and tools Along with standard equipment like a large, wide heavy-bottomed pot, measuring cups (dry and wet), measuring spoons, wooden spoons and spatulas, there are a few pieces of specialized gear that will set you up for canning success.

Canning Pot and Rack

Tools

This is a very large, inexpensive pot with a wire insert designed to keep canning jars from sitting directly on the bottom of the pot. The insert also has two handles to allow you to lift a whole batch of jars in and out of the pot with ease. Alternatively, you can use a pot tall enough to hold your canning jars with 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water above them and a round metal cake cooling rack that fits into the bottom of the pot.

Canning companies like Bernardin sell tool kits that contain a ladle, wide canning funnel, jar lifter (like a specialized pair of tongs), headspace gauge and magnetic lid lifter. Again, while it is certainly possible to can without these tools, they are specifically designed to help make the process easier and will likely increase your enjoyment.

Canning Jars with Two-Piece Metal Lids Preserves are often photographed in a wide variety of lovely jars, and you may find older recipes that use wax as a sealant, but we’ve learned a lot of science over the years, and food safety is a real concern. Use proper canning jars, called Mason jars. The jars and ring parts of the lids may be used over and over, but the flat top discs with the rubber seals can only be used once. Also pay attention to the size of jars your recipes require, as it is linked to the correct processing time.

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BASICS Herb-Pickled Mushrooms Recipe on page 170

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BATCH WORK

Food safety Follow a current, tested recipe. Foods must have the correct acid level for safe preserving and the right pectin level for the proper texture of sweet spreads. Some very old recipes are no longer considered safe. Measure accurately and don’t substitute ingredients. You can sub spices and herbs, but don’t adjust salt. Never adjust the vinegar; you can use a different vine gar of the same or stronger concentration.

SHERRY APPLE GINGER WALNUT CONSERVE Recipe on page 168

Keep Clean Preserves must always be put into hot sterilized jars. Wash them in the dish washer on the sanitize cycle (timing it so they’re hot when ready to fill) or fill your canning pot with water, add clean jars (tilting them to fill with water) and place upright on rack. Bring water to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. Turn heat to low, and leave jars in the canning pot to keep hot until it’s time to fill them. Sterilize all tools and equipment in the dishwasher on the sanitize cycle or in a bleach solution of 1 tsp (5 mL) bleach for each 3 cups (750 mL) water. Rinse well.

If in doubt, throw it out! Never eat preserves that have bulging lids, broken or rusted seals, mould or bad odours, or are bubbling. It does feel wasteful, but food poisoning is not worth the risk.

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Planning your canning A little planning goes a long way toward successful canning (for example, don’t start at 8 p.m. unless you want to pull an all-nighter!).

Purchasing

Planning logistics

Prep your space

Equipment

Calculate ingre dient amounts for recipes (plus a little extra), order ahead from farm ers or markets (for larger amounts) and check your jar and lid supply.

Schedule time to do your can ning the day you buy the pro duce or the next day (or, in the case of things that may need to ripen further, such as toma toes, buy ahead but be ready when they are). You want to preserve the ingredients when they’re at their peak.

Clear off counters to have lots of room to work, clear a spot to let your jars cool for 24 hours and clear space in your pantry for your finished preserves.

Always sterilize an extra jar or two, and extra lids, in case the recipe makes a little more than it states.

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Irish Whiskey Beef Stew

What makes this recipe crave-worthy? It’s the chunks of tender beef and harvest veggies in a hearty sauce spiked with Irish Whiskey. Did we mention the beef? Prep time: 15 minutes | Cook time: 2 hours, 15 minutes | Total time: 2-1/2 hours | Serves: 4– 6 servings Recipe development and photography by EatInEatOut Magazine – eatineatout.ca Ingredients

Instructions

• 2-1/2 lb/1.3 kg Beef Blade Steak or Blade Pot Roast • 3/4 tsp EACH salt and black pepper • 3 tbsp olive oil, divided • 1 large sweet onion, diced • 4 strips bacon, diced • 3 cloves garlic, minced • 4 carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch pieces • 3 large celery stalks, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces • 3 tbsp all-purpose flour • 1 can (500 mL) stout beer (like Guinness) • 1/2 cup Irish Whiskey • 1-1/2 cups beef broth • 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 3 tbsp tomato paste • 1/2 tsp dried thyme • 2 bay leaves

1. Preheat oven to 325ºF. Cut meat into bite-sized cubes. Pat dry and season with salt and pepper. 2. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a heavy Dutch oven or stock pot over medium-high heat. Brown beef, in batches for 8 to 10 minutes, turning until browned on all sides. Transfer beef to a bowl. 3. Lower heat to medium and add remaining oil. Add onions and cook for 2 minutes. Add bacon and cook until bacon is browned and onions are soft and golden. Add garlic, cook for one minute. Add carrot and celery. Sprinkle ﬂour over top, and stir for 1 minute until thoroughly moistened. 4. Gradually stir in stout, whiskey, broth, Worcestershire, tomato paste and bay leaves; stir up any browned bits at the bottom of the pot. Return beef and any accumulated juices to the pot (note: liquid level should just cover the beef and vegetables). 5. Cover and cook in the preheated oven for 2 hours, until beef is fork-tender. Skim off any fat on the surface, if desired. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Remove bay leaves. Serve with mashed potatoes.

You know what you love, and you know why you love it. It’s the REAL satisfaction and REAL nourishment that BEEF delivers.

Scan for more crave-worthy recipes.

Get more of what you crave at thinkbeef.ca/real A Canada Beef initiative.

BATCH WORK

GENERAL TIPS FOR SUCCESS A few more pointers to get you canning like a pro!

Only fill as many jars as your canning pot will hold at one time. Never fill jars and then let them cool before processing in the canner. Only use the freshest, highest quality ingredients. Any produce with spots of decay can spoil an entire batch of preserves (even if you cut the spots away). Don’t double a recipe. The cooking time and amount of evaporation will change in larger batches

Cumin Lime Carrot Jam Recipe on page 169

and will affect texture. If you want to make more, do separate single batches. When making sweet spreads like jams, jellies and conserves, don’t alter the type or amount of sugar, or you risk jams that won’t set. Many pickles, salsas, chutneys and sauces benefit from standing at least a few days or even a week or two after canning for the best flavour. Be patient before opening, if you can!

Storage Once you have those beautiful jars filled, sealed and cooled, take care to store them properly to preserve the quality.

Remove the ring portion of the lids, wash and let air-dry; store to use next time.

Rinse jars and wipe dry. Don’t put the rings back on the jars; they aren’t needed (the lids are vacuum-sealed on) and any moisture trapped under the rings can cause rusting and the seals to loosen.

Label each jar (use a marker or removable piece of tape on the lid) with the contents and made-on date.

Store for up to one year in a dry place, away from any temperature fluctuations (cool is best) and in the dark. A cold cellar is usually too moist.

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LOVE YOUR PURCHASE? LET OTHERS KNOW!

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Visit LCBO.COM or our mobile app to Rate & Review your purchases. You can also view other shoppers’ ratings and discover popular products and brands to help expand your taste experiences. Share your favourites!

BATCH WORK 02

How-to 01

Always begin by sterilizing your canning jars (see “Keep Clean” on page 158). Thirty to 45 minutes before you’re ready to fill jars, add enough water to the canning pot to cover filled jars by 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) when the rack is lowered. Bring water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and keep the lid on the pot to reduce evaporation.

ing time, preventing a vacuum and possibly resulting in spoilage. Any partially filled jars should be cooled and refrigerated right away, then eaten first.

For pickles and chunky sauces, insert a bubble remover tool, narrow spatula or chopstick into jar to gently remove any bubbles. Once bubbles are released, you may need to add more sauce or liquid to correct the headspace.

Wipe the rim and threads of each jar clean, then top with disc part of lid, using a magnetic lid wand, if you have one. Place metal ring on jar and twist until it is only fingertip tight. If the ring is too tight, it may interfere with air escaping and result in a poor seal or cracked jar.

About 15 minutes before filling jars, place the flat disc parts of the lids in a small pot and cover well with water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat to soften sealing compound. Cover pot, turn off heat and keep lids in warm water until ready to seal jars. Unused lids may be dried off and stored for another time. Fill canning jars, leaving the amount of headspace (the space between the top of your preserves and the rim of the jar) specified in the recipe. Use a ruler or headspace gauge—yes, it’s that important! If you fill jars too full, preserves may seep out and interfere with a good seal. Leaving too much headspace may leave more air in the jar than can be forced out during the process-

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Return the water in your canning pot to a boil over high heat. Place filled jars upright on rack, making sure they are covered with 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water (add boiling water as necessary, pouring between jars, not on them). Cover pot with lid and return water to a boil. Start timer for processing

when the water in the pot has come back to a boil. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a boil without letting jars bump around in the pot.

Carefully remove jars from canning pot, without tilting, and set on a cutting board or dishtowel to cool. You should hear slight pings as lids pop down to seal. Let stand without moving for 24 hours. After jars have cooled, check to make sure lids are concave and do not move when you press down on the centre. Any jars that have not properly sealed themselves can be kept in the refrigerator and used within a few weeks.

Tip If you have hard water, scrunch up a piece of foil and float it in the canning pot along with the jars. The foil attracts the minerals so they don’t cling to your jars.

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A Celebration of 150 years of perfection PRICE IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. WHILE SUPPLIES LAST. MUST BE LEGAL DRINKING AGE.

1.0g SUGAR PER 3/4 CUP (188mL) SERVING

Recipes With wine, beer and spirit pairings by the LCBO’s Knowledge Resources Group.

Ready, set, chill! from page 141

3 Pour the dressing over the beets and mix. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week, mixing occasionally. 4 Serve directly or dress with the Greek yogurt, walnuts and parsley, if desired. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE

1 lb (455 g) beets, about 4 medium 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) whole grain mustard 1 tbsp (15 mL) drained prepared horseradish 3 tbsp (45 mL) cider vinegar 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) sugar Salt to taste 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped shallots 1/4 cup (60 mL) Greek yogurt (optional) 2 tbsp (30 mL) crushed toasted walnuts (optional) 2 tbsp (30 mL) roughly chopped flat leaf parsley (optional)

1 Cook the beets in boiling salted water until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Cool and peel. Cut into small wedges. 2 In a small bowl, mix the mustard, horseradish, vinegar, sugar, salt and shallots.

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This twist on a classic Americano cocktail calls for Fever-Tree tonic because it has less sugar than other brands—and amaro is sweet enough. 1 1/2 oz Caffo Vecchio Amaro del Capo 1 1/2 oz sweet red vermouth 1 1/2 oz Fever-Tree tonic water 1 lemon wedge

Crémant de Limoux is a great-value classic sparkling wine. Its citrus, earth, apple and nut tones will enhance the dominant ingredients in this salad.

1 Fill a rocks glass with ice. Add amaro and vermouth, and stir. Top with tonic water and squeeze in a splash of fresh lemon juice.

Grande Cuvée 1531 de Aimery Crémant de Limoux

Makes 1 drink

BEET & HORSERADISH SALAD Whole grain mustard and horseradish add kick to these marinated beets. They’re great right from the fridge and go really well with schnitzel and mashed potatoes. To toast walnuts, place them on a baking sheet in a preheated 350°F (177°C) oven for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

CAPO AMERICANO

LCBO 428086, $18.80

MONTE MULA

That’s Amaro! from page 135

PAPERINO Named after the first model of the Vespa scooter, this sour takes inspiration from the Sidecar cocktail. 1 1/2 oz Amaro Lucano 1/2 oz brandy 1 oz lemon juice 1 egg white 1 lemon twist for garnish

This lively drink belongs to the Mule or Buck family of cocktails, which plays with some combination of ginger, fruit and spirits. It’s bright, fresh and comparatively low in alcohol. 2 oz Amaro Montenegro 1 oz fresh lime juice 6 mint leaves 1 cup (250 mL) crushed ice for finished drink 3 oz ginger beer 1 mint sprig for garnish

1 Put ice cubes in a shaker and add amaro, lime juice and mint leaves. Shake well.

1 Add all ingredients, except garnish, to an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake vigorously for 60 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with lemon twist.

2 Fill a highball glass with crushed ice. Strain drink into glass and add ginger beer. Garnish with mint sprig.

Makes 1 drink

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A guide to cider from page 108

2 For the salad, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add quinoa and cook until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and spread out on a baking pan to cool. 3 Place bacon in a medium nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until well-browned and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towel. Drain off most of the fat and save for another use. Return pan to burner and raise heat to medium-high. Cook lemon halves, cut-sides down, until nicely caramelized, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a small plate to cool.

CIDERHOUSE SALAD This hearty salad was created by chef Kai Chan, director of culinary at FAB Restaurant Concepts, which manages the Brickworks Ciderhouse restaurant. “We wanted a salad that could be refreshing for Toronto summers but hold its own during our cold winters,” he says. To toast the pecans, bake on a small tray in a 350°F (177°C) oven until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. POPPYSEED DRESSING 1/2 cup (125 mL) white vinegar 1/3 cup (80 mL) sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) finely grated onion or shallot 1 tsp (5 mL) dry mustard powder 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 cup (250 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) poppy seeds 3/4 cup (175 mL) red quinoa 6 oz (170 g) bacon, chopped 1 small lemon, halved crosswise, visible seeds poked out 4 1/2 cups (1.125 L) thinly sliced Tuscan kale (thick stems removed) Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2/3 cup (150 mL) diced cooked beets 1/2 cup (125 mL) diced Royal Gala apple 1/3 cup (80 mL) dried cranberries 1/4 cup (60 mL) pecan halves, toasted 1/2 cup (125 mL) crumbled goat cheese

1 For the dressing, combine vinegar, sugar, onion, dry mustard and salt in a blender. Blend for 20 seconds. With the motor on high, add oil in a slow, steady stream to form an emulsified dressing. Transfer to a 2-cup (500-mL) Mason jar. Stir in poppy seeds. (Dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 2 weeks.) Shake well before using.

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4 In a large mixing bowl, combine kale, quinoa and enough poppy seed dressing to nicely coat. Season with salt and pepper. Mix and transfer to a serving platter. Top with beets, apple, cranberries, bacon, pecans and goat cheese. Garnish with charred lemon halves. Serves 4 to 6

BEET GINGER MULE Zesty from the ginger and earthy from the beet, this version of a classic Moscow Mule is unforgettably vibrant. 2 oz vodka 1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 5 to 6 oz Beet Ginger Beer (recipe follows) Splash carbonated water (optional) 1 lime peel or wedge for garnish

1 Pour vodka and lime juice into a crushedice-filled mule or large rocks glass. Top with Beet Ginger Beer. Stir to mix. Taste and add carbonated water, if you like. Garnish rim of glass with lime peel. Makes 1 cocktail (see TIP)

BEET GINGER BEER Feel free to use this recipe in place of the usual ginger beer in other cocktails as well.

Spice it up! from page 88

CINNAMON-SCENTED BLACK MANHATTAN A Black Manhattan uses amaro in place of vermouth for a pleasingly herbaceous and bitter twist. Spiking the drink with more cinnamon than feels instinctual adds big, bold and beautiful flavour. For an alternative garnish that complements the flavours in the amaro, use a fragrant sage leaf in place of the cinnamon stick. 2 oz Canadian rye whisky 1 oz amaro, preferably Averna 5 dashes Angostura bitters 1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) ground cinnamon Long strip orange peel for garnish (optional) Cinnamon stick for garnish (optional)

1 Pour whisky, amaro, bitters and ground cinnamon into a mixing glass partially filled with ice. Stir until chilled. Strain into a cocktail glass. Pull orange peel (if using) over glass, releasing oils into cocktail. Gently pinch, peel side out, misting oils over surface of drink. Rub peel around outside rim of glass, then add to drink, along with cinnamon stick, if you like. Makes 1 cocktail

1/2 cup (125 mL) freshly grated ginger, about 2 large pieces 1 large beet, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed yellow brown sugar 3 cups (750 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) carbonated water

1 Place ginger, beet and sugar in a large saucepan. Pour water overtop. Stir to mix. Set over medium-high heat. When mixture is boiling around the edges (this will take about 7 minutes), reduce heat to medium-low. Gently simmer, stirring occasionally and adjusting heat as needed, for 10 minutes more. Remove from heat. Let stand for 1 hour. 2 Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher. If making ahead, mixture will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for up to 4 days. Just before serving, top with carbonated water. Stir to mix. Once carbonated water has been added, ginger beer will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 12 hours. Makes 3 1/2 cups (875 mL) Beet Ginger Beer for approximately 6 Mules

TIP Make a 6-serving batch by pouring Beet Ginger Beer into a very large pitcher or punch bowl. Stir in 12 oz vodka and 6 oz freshly squeezed lime juice. Taste and add more carbonated water, if you like.

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PLUM & PEPPERCORN SANGRIA

HORSERADISH MARTINI

A traditional sangria gets its fresh flavour from macerated fruit. Take that style of preparation a step further and play up the notes in the wine by using sweet plums and spicy black pepper.

Give this quintessential cocktail-hour drink a hot and peppery twist with the addition of fresh horseradish. The savoury kick makes it the perfect match for oysters, or you can even serve it with an old-school roast beef dinner.

1 orange 1 cup (250 mL) chopped plums, about 2 large or 3 small 1 bottle (750 mL) red wine, preferably Spanish, such as Tempranillo 1/2 cup (125 mL) Peppercorn-Infused Brandy (recipe follows), see TIP 1 can (355 mL) club soda, chilled Plum slices for garnish Rosemary sprigs for garnish (optional) Pinches freshly ground black pepper

1 Pull 3 long strips of peel from orange and add to a large pitcher along with plums and wine. Set orange aside. Cover pitcher and let stand, allowing flavours to infuse for 4 to 8 hours. Squeeze 1/2 cup (125 mL) juice from orange. Add to wine mixture, along with brandy. When ready to serve, top with club soda. Stir to mix. Serve in ice-filled glasses garnished with plum slices, rosemary sprig (if desired) and a sprinkling of pepper. Makes 6 cups (1.5 L) for 8 servings

SPICY PUMPKIN LEMONADE & WHISKEY For a seasonal spin, spice up the classic lemonade-and-whiskey combo with a hit of heat and a swirl of pumpkin. Choose your pepper wisely. If you love heat, then reach for your favourite hot pepper, such as ghost or Scotch bonnet. If you’re trying to please everyone, use jalapeño or habanero. Just taste to ensure your hot peppers have heat—on occasion, a jalapeño can veer into green pepper territory. When handling very hot peppers, be sure to wear gloves and don’t touch your eyes or allow any cooking steam to reach them. When you’ve finished preparation, carefully wash your kitchen equipment and surfaces, and your fingers (even if you wore gloves).

1 Pour gin and vermouth into a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until chilled, approximately 50 swirls or 45 seconds. Strain through a julep strainer into a chilled Martini or coupe glass. Pull lemon peel over glass, releasing oils into cocktail. Gently pinch, peel side out, misting oils over surface of drink. Rub peel around outside rim of glass, then add to glass. Garnish with olive or caper berry, if you like, or go for a Gibson-style cocktail by garnishing with pickled pearl onion.

1 very spicy pepper or 1 to 2 jalapeños 1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar 1 cup (250 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice (4 to 5 lemons) 1/2 cup (125 mL) pumpkin purée 2 cups (500 mL) cold water 12 oz bourbon whiskey or Canadian rye whisky 6 lemon wheels or Thai chilies (optional) Pinches freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

TIP No time to infuse? Use the same recipe

TIP If you would prefer to skip the peppercorn infusion, simply rim the glass with a mix of sugar and crushed pink peppercorns.

PEPPERCORN-INFUSED BRANDY When added to cocktails, the subtle spiciness of peppercorns infused into brandy offers complexity. 2 tbsp (30 mL) whole black or toasted Szechuan peppercorns, or a mix (see TIP) 1/2 cup (125 mL) brandy

1 Using the bottom of a small pot, crush peppercorns until cracked. Place in a jar. Pour brandy overtop. Seal and shake. Let stand, shaking occasionally, until brandy is infused with spicy peppercorn flavour. This will take anywhere from 1 to 7 days. When peppercorn brandy is infused to your liking, fine-strain into a measuring cup. Rinse jar and pour strained brandy back in. Infusion will keep well for at least 2 weeks. Makes 1/2 cup (125 mL) infused brandy

TIP Mildly spicy Szechuan peppercorns are native to China. Look for them at Asian markets and gourmet food stores. Bring out their aroma and flavour by toasting in a dry pan set over medium heat until fragrant.

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2 1/2 oz Horseradish-Infused Gin (recipe follows), see TIP 1/4 to 1/2 oz dry vermouth Long strip lemon peel Olive, caper berry or pickled pearl onion for garnish (optional)

1 Carefully slice pepper. Add to a small pot along with sugar and 1 cup (250 mL) water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Gently heat until sugar dissolves, 3 to 5 minutes. Let stand, allowing pepper to infuse until very spicy, 15 to 45 minutes. Pour into a large pitcher. Whisk in lemon juice and pumpkin purée. Add cold water. Stir in whiskey until mixed. The pumpkin will separate, so be sure to stir well just before serving. Pour into 6 crushed-ice-filled Collins glasses. Garnish each cocktail with a lemon wheel (or chili) and a sprinkling of nutmeg, if you like. Serve each glass with a straw for sipping and stirring. Makes 5 2/3 cups (1.4 L) for 6 servings

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Makes 1 cocktail

with regular gin and garnish with a ribbon of fresh horseradish pulled using a vegetable peeler.

HORSERADISH-INFUSED GIN The shorter infusion time yields a peppy result. Go a little longer, and you’ll find more of the rounded-out flavours of the horseradish, but be prepared for a Martini with a lot of eye-watering kick. Using this recipe for a Caesar or Bloody Mary? Take the infusion time up to 8 hours. 2 x 2-inch (5 x 5-cm) piece fresh horseradish 2 cups (500 mL) gin

1 Peel horseradish. Thinly slice, then cut into matchstick-size pieces. You should have about 1/2 cup (125 mL) matchsticks. Place in a large resealable jar. Pour gin overtop. Shake. Let stand until flavours infuse, 2 to 4 hours, according to your liking. Makes 1 3/4 cups (425 mL) infused gin for approximately 6 Martinis

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Batch work from page 155

water to blanch for about 30 seconds or until skins start to split. Use a slotted spoon to lift tomatoes from boiling water and immediately add to cold water. Let soak and cool while blanching remaining tomatoes in batches (this will loosen the skins). 3 Trim out cores from tomatoes, and slip off skins and discard. Chop tomatoes. Using a 1-cup (250-mL) dry measuring cup, measure 10 cups (2.5 L) total, using the tomatoes and any juices collected on the cutting board. Reserve any extra for another use.

TOMATO, CORN & PEPPER SALSA Once you’ve tried your own homemade salsa, you won’t go back to store-bought—and you’ll be counting down to the next tomato season when you run out. It does take some effort to prep all of the vegetables, but it will pay off on the first taste! Choose the amount and type of hot peppers based on your desired heat level: 1/2 cup (125 mL) of milder peppers for a mild salsa, 3/4 cup (175 mL) of the hottest peppers for salsa with a good kick, or somewhere in between. Hot peppers vary in heat level, even when they’re the same variety, so it can be tricky to give your salsa the perfect heat. It’s better to err on the milder side than to make it too hot. If it’s not spicy enough, after opening a jar (not before canning), stir in hot pepper sauce to taste. 5 1/2 lbs (2.495 kg) Roma tomatoes 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) chopped onions 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) chopped sweet red peppers 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) chopped poblano or cubanelle peppers 1/2 to 3/4 cup (125 to 175 mL) finely chopped hot peppers (jalapeño, cayenne or hot banana) 2 tbsp (30 mL) minced garlic 2 tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) pickling salt or other salt with no additives 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) ground cumin 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) cider vinegar (5% acid) 4 cobs corn, shucked (approx.) 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

1 Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Fill a sink or large bowl with very cold water (floating an ice pack in the water helps keep it cold). 2 Score a small slit in bottom of each tomato with a paring knife. Working in batches of 3 to 5 tomatoes at a time, plunge into the boiling

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4 Combine tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, poblano peppers, hot peppers, garlic, sugar, salt, cumin and vinegar in a large wide pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and boil for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat as necessary to just maintain a boil, and stir more frequently as the salsa thickens to prevent scorching.

TIP Avoid the temptation to boil salsa down too thick, as it will dry out and won’t be properly preserved. It should mound on a spoon but still have a fluid, chunky texture. It will thicken slightly upon cooling.

WHAT TO SERVE A combination of balanced sweetness, crisp acidity and tangy apple flavours will tame the heat and spice of this salsa and refresh the palate. Thornbury Village Craft Apple Cider LCBO 333583, 473 mL, $3.45

5 Meanwhile, bring a canning pot of water to a boil, and prepare jars and two-piece canning lids. 6 Cook corn in a pot of boiling water for about 5 minutes or until tender-crisp. Drain and let cool. Cut kernels from cobs into a bowl using a serrated knife. Measure 2 cups (500 mL) corn, reserving any extra for another use. 7 After the salsa has boiled for 45 minutes, stir in corn and boil for 20 to 30 minutes longer, stirring often, until volume has reduced by about one-third and salsa is slightly thickened (see TIP). It will continue to thicken slightly upon cooling. Stir in cilantro, if using. Remove from heat and place pot on a heatproof surface. 8 Ladle hot salsa into hot jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) headspace. Remove any air bubbles and add more salsa to adjust headspace, as necessary. Wipe rims and threads of jars. Place lid discs on jars, then screw on metal rings, just until fingertip tight. 9 Immerse jars in canning pot, making sure water is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) above the top of lids. Cover pot and return to a boil over high heat. Process for 20 minutes. Turn off heat and let jars stand in water for 5 minutes. Lift jars out of water and place on a towellined heatproof surface. Let cool and stand for at least 24 hours. 10 Check to ensure lids are sealed. Refrigerate any jars that are not sealed. Remove rings, wipe jars and store for up to 1 year. Once opened, refrigerate and use within 1 month. Makes about five 2-cup (500-mL) jars

SHERRY APPLE GINGER WALNUT CONSERVE Conserve is a chunky, softly set sweet preserve, typically accented with nuts and a splash of liquor. Here, classic flavours—apples, ginger and walnuts, and a bit of sherry—meld together beautifully in this easy-to-make preserve. The flavours bloom even more upon standing, so do wait a few days before popping open a jar to enjoy (if you can resist). Choose cooking apples that hold their shape and flavour, such as Cortland, Ida Red, Honey Crisp, Crispin (Mutsu) or Northern Spy. Serve this conserve with cheese and charcuterie, on scones or as a sweet condiment with meat and poultry. 31/4 cups (810 mL) granulated sugar, divided 1 package (57 g) regular pectin crystals 6 cups (1.5 L) diced peeled cooking apples, about 4 large or 2 lbs 2 oz (960 g) 1 tbsp (15 mL) minced ginger 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup (125 mL) water 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped walnuts, toasted (see TIP) 2 tbsp (30 mL) sherry (cream or dry)

1 Combine 1/4 cup (60 mL) of the sugar and the pectin in a small bowl. Set aside.

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2 Combine remaining 3 cups (750 mL) sugar, apples, ginger and lemon juice in a large pot. Stir well, cover and let stand for 30 minutes, until juices are released from apples.

4 Heat a large pot over medium heat until warmed. Add cumin seeds and toast, shaking pot constantly, for about 30 seconds or until fragrant.

3 Meanwhile, bring a canning pot of water to a boil, and prepare jars and two-piece canning lids.

5 Add 1 cup (250 mL) water, then lime zest, lime juice, carrots and salt to pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and boil gently for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until carrots are just tender-crisp.

4 Stir 1/2 cup (125 mL) water into apple mixture. Gradually sprinkle in pectin mixture, stirring to combine. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes or just until apples are tender and starting to turn translucent. 5 Increase heat to high and bring to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down, stirring constantly. Boil hard, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Immediately remove from heat and place pot on a heatproof surface. 6 Skim off any foam with a large shallow spoon. Stir in walnuts and sherry. Let stand, stirring often, for 5 minutes (this helps prevent pieces from floating in the jars). 7 Ladle hot conserve into hot jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) headspace. Remove any air bubbles and add more conserve to adjust headspace, as necessary. Wipe rims and threads of jars. Place lid discs on jars, then screw on metal rings, just until fingertip tight. 8 Immerse jars in canning pot, making sure water is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) above the top of lids. Cover pot and return to a boil over high heat. Process for 10 minutes. Turn off heat and let jars stand in water for 5 minutes. Lift jars out of water and place on a towel-lined heatproof surface. Let cool and stand for at least 24 hours. 9 Check to ensure lids are sealed. Refrigerate any jars that are not sealed. Remove rings, wipe jars and store for up to 1 year. Once opened, refrigerate and use within 1 month. Makes about five 1-cup (250-mL) jars

TIP To toast chopped walnuts, spread on a baking sheet or pie plate and bake in 350°F (177°C) oven for about 5 minutes or until golden and fragrant. Immediately transfer to a bowl and let cool.

WHAT TO SERVE This cream sherry has nutty, sweet spice and dried fruit tones that highlight the flavours and textures in the conserve. Use it in the recipe to enhance the match. Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry LCBO 215483, $16.80

FOOD & DRINK

AUTUMN 2021

CUMIN LIME CARROT JAM Carrots are abundant in autumn and very economical. They’re a perfect ingredient for trying your hand at jam making, even if it’s your first time, and for making preserves for gift giving. Use a food processor with the coarse shredding blade to make quick work of preparing the carrots. Or use the coarse side of a box grater and call it your workout for the day. The cumin may be a bit of a surprise in jam, but once you taste this sweet spread with a savoury twist, you’ll agree it’s a welcome one, especially in combination with the carrots and lime! You can reduce the amount to 1/2 tsp (2 mL) for a mild cumin flavour or leave it out completely for a solely sweet jam. This jam uses powdered pectin to allow for a short cooking time and a fresh flavour. It is a soft set, which makes it a versatile condiment for serving with cheeses, on a charcuterie board, as a sweet and savoury spread on toast, or as an accent to Middle Eastern meals or curries. 4 large limes (approx.), see TIP 6 cups (1.5 L) granulated sugar, divided

6 Gradually sprinkle in pectin mixture, stirring to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often. Increase heat to high and gradually pour in remaining sugar, stirring constantly. Return to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down, stirring frequently. Boil hard, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Immediately remove from heat and place pot on a heatproof surface. 7 Skim off any foam with a large shallow spoon. Let stand, stirring often, for 5 minutes (this helps prevent pieces from floating in the jars). 8 Ladle hot jam into hot jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) headspace. Remove any air bubbles and add more jam to adjust headspace, as necessary. Wipe rims and threads of jars. Place lid discs on jars, then screw on metal rings, just until fingertip tight. 9 Immerse jars in canning pot, making sure water is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) above the top of lids. Cover pot and return to a boil over high heat. Process for 10 minutes. Turn off heat and let jars stand in water for 5 minutes. Lift jars out of water and place on a towel-lined heatproof surface. Let cool and stand for at least 24 hours.

1 package (57 g) regular pectin crystals 1 tsp (5 mL) cumin seeds 1 cup (250 mL) water 4 cups (1 L) shredded carrots, about 8 carrots or 11/2 lbs (680 g) 1/2 tsp (2 mL) pickling salt or other salt with no additives

1 Bring a canning pot of water to a boil, and prepare jars and two-piece canning lids. 2 Scrub limes with a vegetable brush under running water. Using a vegetable peeler, peel off lime zest, avoiding bitter white pith as much as possible (a thin layer is fine). Stack strips in batches and cut crosswise into thin shreds. Measure 1/4 cup (60 mL) packed zest. Squeeze limes and measure 1/2 cup (125 mL) juice. Reserve any remaining zest and juice for another use. 3 Combine 1/4 cup (60 mL) of the sugar and the pectin in a small bowl. Set aside.

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10 Check to ensure lids are sealed. Refrigerate any jars that are not sealed. Remove rings, wipe jars and store for up to 1 year. Once opened, refrigerate and use within 1 month. Makes six 1-cup (250-mL) jars

TIP Choose dark green limes with firm, thick skins for this recipe. A Y-shaped vegetable peeler with a sharp blade is the best tool to remove the strips of zest without cutting into the bitter white pith.

WHAT TO SERVE Select Late Harvest Vidal’s rich, sweet palate and concentrated flavours of citrus zest, dried fruit and spice will provide a perfect harmony for this jam. Henry of Pelham Special Select Late Harvest Vidal VQA LCBO 395228, 375 mL, $19.95

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transfer them to the towel-lined baking sheet in a single layer. Let cool and drain. 5 Cut the 2 whole garlic cloves in half lengthwise. Place all 5 garlic pieces in a medium saucepan. Strip leaves from 1 thyme sprig and add leaves to saucepan, discarding stem. Set remaining thyme sprigs aside.

HERB-PICKLED MUSHROOMS Fresh mushrooms are available year-round but still make a terrific ingredient for preserving. This is a simple and quick-to-make pickle for a first foray into home canning. These tangy pickles are a perfect way to capture the flavour of those fresh herbs at the end of the season. Try pickled mushrooms on pizza, added to pasta or on top of salads (use the pickling liquid to make the dressing), and serve them with cured meats and sharp cheeses. You can also turn them into marinated mushrooms by combining with oil before serving: Open the jar, combine with 1/4 cup (60 mL) cold-pressed oil in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, then serve. 2 lbs (905 g) mushrooms (white and/or cremini) 8 3/4 cups (2.175 L) water, divided 1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh lemon juice 2 1/2 cloves garlic 6 sprigs thyme 2 tsp (10 mL) pickling salt or other salt with no additives 1 tsp (5 mL) whole black peppercorns 1 3/4 cups (425 mL) white wine vinegar (6% acid) 5 small sprigs rosemary

6 Add salt, peppercorns, vinegar and remaining 3/4 cup (175 mL) water to saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve salt. Boil for 1 minute. Reduce heat to low to keep warm. 7 Fill hot jars with mushrooms, dividing equally. There should be at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) headspace between top of mushrooms and rim of jar. Leave a few mushrooms out if jars are too full, as you need room for pickling liquid. Slide 1 thyme sprig and 1 rosemary sprig into the side of each jar. Using small tongs, transfer 1 garlic piece from the saucepan to each jar. 8 Ladle hot pickling liquid over mushrooms in jars, dividing peppercorns as equally as possible among jars, leaving 1/2 inch (1 cm) headspace. Remove any air bubbles and add more liquid to adjust headspace, as necessary (there may be a little liquid left over; discard or use for a vinaigrette). Wipe rims and threads of jars. Place lid discs on jars, then screw on metal rings, just until fingertip tight. 9 Immerse jars in canning pot, making sure water is 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) above the top of lids. Cover pot and return to a boil over high heat. Process for 20 minutes. Turn off heat and let jars stand in water for 5 minutes. Lift jars out of water and place on a towellined heatproof surface. Let cool and stand for at least 24 hours.

1 Bring a canning pot of water to a boil, and prepare jars and two-piece canning lids.

10 Check to ensure lids are sealed. Refrigerate any jars that are not sealed. Remove rings, wipe jars and store for up to 1 year. Once opened, refrigerate and use within 1 month.

2 Line a large baking sheet with a lint-free towel.

Makes five 1-cup (250-mL) jars

3 Trim mushroom stems to about 1/4 inch (5 mm). Cut mushrooms into quarters (or halves, if they are on the smaller side). If mushroom caps are 1 1/4 inches (3 cm) in diameter or less, you can leave them whole. 4 Combine 8 cups (2 L) water and lemon juice in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add mushrooms, reduce heat and boil gently, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until mushrooms are tender. Use a slotted spoon to drain mushrooms and

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WHAT TO SERVE Mushrooms and Pinot Noir are a classic match. This local example’s red berry fruit, light earth and herbal tones will resonate with the pickled dish. Hidden Bench Estate Organic Pinot Noir VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 274753, $34.95

Three of a kind from page 79

DANIEL’S PASTURE-RAISED ROAST CHICKEN For chef Daniel Hadida, it’s all about the quality of the bird. “There’s a literal definition of ‘pasture-raised,’ meaning the predominant diet is open pasture-foraged.” He knows his farmer by name, and at home, he suggests we do the same with our butcher. His first step during prep is removing the wishbone. “The reason you take it out is because it helps in carving later,” he says. “You want to use every piece of its meat and the bones.” 3 1/2- to 4-lb (1.585- to 1.81-kg) pasture-raised chicken (see TIP) Sea salt Juice of half a small lemon Coarse sea salt for serving

1 Remove the wishbone from the chicken by pushing the tip of a knife through the neck cavity and running it up each side of the bone. Then hook your finger behind the bone and twist it out. This will help with easier carving after roasting. 2 Dry chicken in the fridge on a roasting rack set over a plate for 24 hours. This will concentrate flavour and encourage better skin crisping. 3 Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C). 4 Bring air-dried chicken out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before roasting. Truss the legs with kitchen string and pull them back from the body. Make sure any torn skin is covering the meat. 5 Season liberally inside and out with salt. Set on a roasting rack in a shallow pan so air can circulate around the chicken. Roast until an instant read thermometer inserted into inner thigh near breast without touching bone reaches 165°F (74°C), about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Rest for 20 to 30 minutes. 6 Place chicken on cutting board and remove rack from pan. Carve chicken and put the pieces back into pan, skin-side up. Turn on broiler and broil for 1 minute, just to get the skin crispy again after resting. 7 For a sauce, simply squeeze the lemon juice into the pan drippings, then drizzle over the meat. Sprinkle with a touch of coarse sea salt and serve. Serves 4

TIP Pasture-raised chicken is important because it infers slow growing and high nutrient density due to the nature of wild forage. Hadida prefers heritage breeds, such as Chantecler and Rhode Island Red, which don’t have huge meat-to-size ratios. You can find them at a local farm, farmers’ market or trusted butcher.

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FOOD & DRINK

2 15

3 16 1 4

12 15 14

5 5

6 7

1. 2. 3. 4.

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5. 6. 7. 8.

Fuet Chorizo Sarta Mild/Hot Snacking Fuet Snacking Chorizo

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12. Señora de Fuentes DOP Manchego Cheese 12 months cured 13. Sheep Cheese with Oregano & Honey 9 months cured 14. Sheep Cheese with Red Wine 9 months cured

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15. Goat Cheese DOP Camerano 90 days cured 16. Blended Cheese 6 months cured

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17. La Sierra Serrano Ham 16 months cured

6 Set the roasting pan with the backbone on the stovetop over medium heat and add peppercorns, bay leaves and garlic. Sauté for 1 minute, then deglaze pan with 1/4 cup (60 mL) of water, soy sauce and apple cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

RICKY’S WEEKEND ROAST CHICKEN WITH ADOBO PAN SAUCE

7 In a small bowl, create a slurry with cornstarch and remaining water, stirring until smooth. Stir cornstarch slurry into pan sauce and allow to thicken for another 2 minutes. Strain through a sieve and serve adobo pan sauce with the rested roast chicken. Serves 4

If you’ve never tried adobo before, now’s your big chance. The sauce couldn’t be easier and packs such an amazing flavour punch that it’ll instantly become your new favourite gravy. Halving a chicken is easy if you have poultry shears; otherwise, ask your butcher to do it for you. 3 1/2- to 4-lb (1.585- to 1.81-kg) whole air-chilled chicken 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tsp (5 mL) whole peppercorns 2 bay leaves 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1/2 cup (125 mL) water, divided 2 tbsp (30 mL) soy sauce 2 tbsp (30 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) cornstarch

1 Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). 2 On a cutting board, place chicken breastside down with legs facing you. Using poultry shears, cut through each side of the backbone from cavity end to neck. Remove backbone and set aside. Flatten chicken with your hand and cut chicken in half along the breastbone. Pat dry with paper towel, making sure skin is thoroughly dry. 3 Rub oil evenly over chicken skin and season with salt and pepper. Place chicken halves, skin-side up, as well as the backbone, in a roasting pan. Roast until an instant read thermometer inserted into inner thigh near breast without touching bone reaches 145°F (63°C), about 30 minutes. Remove from oven. 4 Set oven to low broil. Broil chicken on middle rack until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. The broiling and resting period will bring the internal temperature to 165°F (74°C). 5 Remove roasting pan from oven. Remove chicken halves from pan. Set aside and let rest while making the sauce.

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3 medium shallots, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise 2 tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). 2 Bring the chicken out of the fridge and allow to sit on the counter at room temperature while prepping the rest of the recipe. This will help you rub the butter onto the chicken without clumping later. 3 In a small bowl, combine butter with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of thyme, oregano, lemon zest, 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt, 1/4 tsp (1 mL) black pepper and the grated garlic. Stir to combine. 4 Toss fennel, potatoes, shallots, remaining garlic and 1 tbsp (15 mL) of thyme with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil, 1/4 tsp (1 mL) black pepper and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Toss together and place in the bottom of a heavy-bottomed roasting pan.

CHRISTINA’S GO-TO LEMON-&BUTTER-ROASTED CHICKEN “I like using fennel because I love how it breaks down and caramelizes with the potatoes,” says chef Christina Mast. In the fall her thoughts turn to turnips and carrots, but this recipe is so versatile, she says to just open your crisper drawer and use what you’ve got. But don’t forget to squeeze the roasted lemons into the pan juices: “That pop of acidity is a huge part of this.” If you can’t find Diamond Crystal salt, substitute half the amount of table or fine sea salt. 3 1/2- to 4-lb (1.585- to 1.81-kg) organic chicken 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh thyme leaves, divided Big pinch dried oregano 1 lemon, zested, then halved 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided 1/2 tsp (2 mL) black pepper, divided 5 garlic cloves, 2 grated on a rasp, 3 smashed and peeled 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced into 1/2-inch (1-cm) wedges 1 lb (455 g) baby yellow-fleshed potatoes, cut in half

5 Gently lift the chicken skin from the meat of the breasts by placing your fingers between the skin and meat. Move around and separate the membrane that attaches the skin from the breasts, as well as around the thighs and drumsticks. Then take three-quarters of the butter mixture and spread generously between the skin and the meat. 6 Season the outside of the chicken with the remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil and 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Stuff lemon halves into the chicken cavity, then tie the legs together with kitchen string. Spread remaining butter mixture all over the skin, especially the breast. 7 Place chicken on prepared potatoes and fennel, and roast in the oven for about 1 hour. Then remove roasting pan from oven and turn up heat to 375°F (191°C). 8 Tilt the pan and gently baste the chicken with the juices. Move around potatoes, shallots and fennel to ensure even browning. Return pan to oven. Roast until an instant read thermometer inserted into inner thigh near breast without touching bone reaches 165°F (74°C), another 30 to 40 minutes. (Rotate pan a few times to ensure even crisping and browning.) Rest for 20 minutes. (Note: If using a convection oven, roast 40 to 50 minutes at 350°F/177°C, then 25 to 30 minutes at 375°F/191°C.) 9 Squeeze all the juice from the roasted lemon into the pan, then spoon the roasting liquid over everything. Carve chicken and serve with roasted fennel and potatoes. Serves 4

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Crushing on garlic

a 2-cup (500-mL) glass jar. Pour in enough garlic oil to cover, saving rest for another use. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

from page 116

Slow-Roasted Chicken With Four Heads Of Garlic Chicken thighs and drummies are slowly roasted with butter, sage and whole heads of garlic, yielding a rich pan sauce tempered by the briny bite of capers. The garlic becomes unbelievably creamy, and the chicken is crisp and succulent. This method for cooking chicken was developed by Andy Baraghani at Bon Appétit.

Squash Tart With Garlic Confit, Gruyère & Rosemary

4 large chicken thighs, about 2 lbs (905 g) total 4 large chicken drumsticks, about 1 lb (455 g) total Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 4 heads garlic 3 bay leaves 12 large sage leaves 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter, melted 1/3 cup (80 mL) dry white wine 3 tbsp (45 mL) capers, rinsed Crusty bread for serving

This French-style pizza is a triumph of caramelized onions, sweet squash, funky Gruyère and melty garlic confit, all on a flaky puff pastry crust. Garlic confit is delicious in mashed potatoes or as a sandwich condiment, plus it yields a lot of garlic oil, which can be used for everything from dressings to roasted vegetables.

1 Preheat oven to 325°F (163°C).

6 small sprigs thyme

2 Place chicken in a large heavy-duty baking dish. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Arrange skin-side up. With a sharp serrated knife, cut a layer off top of garlic heads, just enough to expose tops of cloves. Add, cutsides down, to dish with chicken. (It’s okay if it’s snug.) Tuck bay and sage leaves between and under chicken. Brush everything with melted butter. Pour wine into pan.

GARLIC CONFIT 2 cups (500 mL) peeled garlic cloves (6 to 8 heads) 1 small bay leaf 1 cup (250 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 cup (250 mL) canola oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil 2 lbs (905 g) onions, thinly sliced Water as needed 1 tsp (5 mL) balsamic vinegar Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

3 Bake chicken on middle rack. After 30 minutes, baste chicken and garlic. After another 30 minutes, baste again and add capers. Continue cooking until chicken is browned and almost falling off the bone, another 30 minutes (or 1 1/2 hours in total). Let stand for 10 minutes. Serve in middle of table with crusty bread for mopping up juices and spreading garlic. Serves 4

3-lb (1.36-kg) butternut squash Oil from garlic confit

2 Heat 2 tbsp (25 mL) canola oil in a large frying pan (not nonstick) over high heat. Add onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring regularly, until brown layer has formed on bottom of pan, 4 to 5 minutes. Deglaze pan with splash of water, stirring up brown bits with wooden spoon. Repeat process 2 more times, or until onions are soft, sweet and brown. Stir in vinegar and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to plate to cool. (Onions will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 5 days.) 3 Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C). 4 Cut neck from bulbous base of squash, saving base for another use. Peel squash neck. Cut in half lengthwise. Slice each half into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick half-moons and place on a large parchment-paper-lined baking tray. (You only need enough to cover 1 baking tray, so save the rest for another use.) Brush both sides lightly with garlic oil and season with salt. Bake on middle rack until just tender, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven. 5 Dust work surface with flour. Roll puff pastry into roughly a 10 x 15-inch (25 x 38-cm) rectangle. Transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking tray. With the tip of a paring knife, score a 3/4-inch (2-cm) border. Brush border with beaten egg. Spread a thin layer of onions within border, saving rest for another use. Sprinkle cheese over onions and top with squash. Arrange garlic confit on top. Toss rosemary and pumpkin seeds with a few drops of garlic oil and sprinkle over tart.

Flour for dusting

12 cloves garlic confit, drained

6 Bake on bottom rack until puffed and brown, about 20 minutes. Cool at least 20 minutes before serving. If top is a bit oily, blot with paper towel. Serve warm or at room temperature.

2 tbsp (30 mL) rosemary leaves

Serves 6

1 pkg (400 g to 500 g) frozen puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, lightly beaten 7 oz (200 g) Gruyère, coarsely grated

1 tbsp (15 mL) hulled pumpkin seeds

WHAT TO SERVE Ripe berry fruit, spice and savoury herbal notes will highlight the sweet roasted garlic and sage flavours. Ripe tannins and balanced acidity refresh your palate. Villa Antinori Toscana IGT LCBO 53876, $25.00

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1 For the garlic confit, place garlic, thyme and bay leaf in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan so that the garlic fits snugly in 1 layer. Add oil. Place over medium heat. When oil starts bubbling, reduce heat to lowest setting. Simmer garlic until barely coloured and very soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely. Very gently spoon garlic into

WHAT TO SERVE This Rhône red presents ripe red berry, thyme and rosemary tones, along with enough weight to match the tart’s flavours and textures. Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 363457, $16.95

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FOOD & DRINK

SAVOUR YOUR STAY INN KINGSTON Please your palate at two of Kingston’s stylish, urban boutique inns this fall. Sip seasonal cocktails and select varietals during the Secret Garden’s sweet and savoury Afternoon Tea. Or indulge in the Frontenac Club’s upscale lounge before the sommelier guides you through an exploration of unique wines and spirits. Treat yourself to an unforgettable getaway in Kingston – enjoy tasting menus paired with wonderful wine, sumptuous snacks and luxurious suites.

Book your stay at thesecretgardeninn.com // frontenacclub.com

The Best Garlic Bread Crusty on the outside, soft in the middle and drenched in verdant butter, this garlic bread has no equal. It makes a little more garlic butter than you need, but you can use it to top broiled fish or baked potatoes. To save energy, throw the garlic in when you’re already using the oven for something else. 2 heads garlic Extra virgin olive oil 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, softened 1/4 tsp (1 mL) finely grated garlic 1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped flat leaf parsley Salt to taste 1 white baguette, cut in half horizontally Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano for serving

1 Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). 2 Cut a layer off top of garlic heads, just enough to expose tops of cloves. Place in a square of foil. Brush tops generously with oil. Wrap tightly and place on a small baking pan. Bake on middle rack until very soft, about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, carefully open foil and cool completely. 3 Squeeze garlic out of papery husks and place in food processor with butter, grated garlic, parsley and salt. Pulse, stopping to scrape down bowl several times, until smooth. Transfer to airtight container. Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using. 4 Preheat oven to 450°F (232°C). 5 Place baguette halves, cut-sides up, on parchment-paper-lined baking tray. Spread generously with garlic butter, laying it on thick and going right to edges. Save rest for another use. 6 Bake on middle rack until golden brown at edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle very lightly with cheese. Cut into pieces and serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8

WHAT TO SERVE A sparkling wine elevates any dish. Its mineral, citrus and apple flavours, cleansing acidity and bubbles are the perfect foil to this garlic bread’s cheesy, salty nature. Jackson-Triggs Sparkling Reserve VQA LCBO 217679, $15.95

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Cassoulet-Style Baked Beans With Bacon & Garlic

WHAT TO SERVE

This dish combines the steadying comfort of baked beans with the flavours and crust of cassoulet. Since the bacon and canned beans are well-seasoned, it is vital to use stock with no added salt. You could serve it with a sharply dressed green salad and baguette toasts for spreading the soft garlic.

The smoky, dark fruit, spice and herb notes in this rich and finely structured wine are a great match for the weight and flavours of this dish.

1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped 1/2 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) unsliced smoked bacon, rind removed 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped thyme 2 tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste 3 cups (750 mL) unsalted chicken stock 3 cans (each 540 mL) white kidney beans, drained, thoroughly rinsed Freshly ground pepper to taste 1 head garlic, roots scraped off 1 cup (250 mL) panko bread crumbs 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped flat leaf parsley 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter, melted Pinch salt

Spaghetti With Garlicky Raw Tomato Sauce & Goat Cheese

1 In a food processor, pulse onion, celery and carrot until finely chopped but not mushy. Set aside. 2 Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). 3 Cut bacon into 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick slices approximately 3 inches (8 cm) long. Working in batches, cook bacon in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat until nicely browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a baking sheet. 4 Reduce heat to medium. If there is an excess of fat in the pan, remove enough to leave 2 tbsp (30 mL). Add onion mixture to pan. Cook, stirring, until tender, 12 to 14 minutes. Add garlic cloves and thyme. Cook for 2 minutes. Add tomato paste. Cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl. 5 Return pan to heat and add stock. Raise heat to high. When it comes to a boil, turn heat off. 6 Add beans to bowl with onion mixture and pepper. Mix thoroughly. To a 3-inch (8-cm) deep 16-cup (4 L) baking dish, add a single layer of beans. Place garlic head in middle and arrange bacon around it. Cover bacon with remaining beans. Carefully pour in hot stock. Cover dish with foil and place on baking sheet. Bake on middle rack for 1 1/2 hours. 7 Remove foil. Bake for 20 minutes. In a mixing bowl, mix panko, parsley, butter and salt. Sprinkle over beans. Bake until golden brown, another 20 minutes. Let rest 15 minutes before serving. Serves 6

7 Deadly Zins Old Vine Zinfandel VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 59311, $24.95

Punchy with garlic and fragrant with basil, this simple pasta dish is a great way to use up an excess of late-summer tomatoes. Be sure to use über-ripe best-quality tomatoes so they end up soft and succulent when tossed with the noodles. This dish also works well at room temp as a pasta salad. 2 lbs (905 g) very ripe tomatoes, cored 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 2 cloves garlic, grated on a rasp 3 sprigs basil, leaves removed, large leaves torn Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 lb (455 g) dried spaghetti, preferably Italian 6 oz (170 g) goat cheese Dried chili flakes for serving

1 Halve tomatoes crosswise. Scoop out seeds into a sieve placed over a medium bowl. Stir and press seeds with back of a spoon to extract juice. Discard seeds or save for vegetable stock. Chop tomatoes into 3/4-inch (2-cm) pieces and add to juice. Stir in olive oil, garlic and basil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. 2 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook spaghetti according to instructions on package. Drain and return to pot. Pour sauce over pasta and mix until well-combined. Taste for salt and pepper. 3 Divide among 4 shallow bowls, making sure to get at the tomatoes and sauce at the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with goat cheese and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with chili flakes. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE Cabernet Franc combines raspberry and herbal tones with enough grip to match the tomato and basil ingredients, and tame the sharp cheese and garlic flavours. Trius Cabernet Franc VQA LCBO 587964, $16.95

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Afternoon delights from page 100

The Veggie Muffuletta Without a doubt, the olive salad in this sandwich is the star of the show. Castelvetrano olives can be hard to find (partly because they also go by the name Nocellara del Belice), but they’re worth seeking out, as their texture and flavour is unlike any other olive. For the bread, we used a 10-inch (25-cm) round focaccia, but the more widely available ACE Bakery loaf will also do the trick.

4 Add 1/4 cup (60 mL) oil to skillet. Working in batches, fry eggplant in a single layer, turning halfway through, until golden brown and very tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining oil and eggplant. Sprinkle with remaining lemon juice, then season with salt. 5 To assemble sandwich, spread olive salad on bottom half of focaccia. Top with cheese, then eggplant, red pepper and zucchini. Spread lemon cream cheese on top half of bread, then close sandwich. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to firm up, then cut into 4 to 6 pieces. Serves 4 to 6

OLIVE SALAD 1 1/4 cups (310 mL) pitted and chopped Castelvetrano or Cerignola olives 1/3 cup (80 mL) finely chopped red onion 1 garlic clove, minced 1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped parsley 2 tbsp (30 mL) capers, chopped 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) chopped Calabrian chilies 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar

LEMON CREAM CHEESE 3/4 cup (175 mL) spreadable cream cheese 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon zest 1 garlic clove, minced 9 tbsp (135 mL) olive oil, divided 1 zucchini, sliced into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick rounds 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice, divided Kosher salt 1 small eggplant, sliced into 1/4-inch (5-mm) thick rounds 1 loaf focaccia, cut in half horizontally 6 oz (170 g) sliced mozzarella 2 large roasted red peppers, torn in half and patted dry

1 For olive salad, combine olives, onion, garlic, parsley, capers, chilies, oil and vinegar in a small bowl. 2 For lemon cream cheese, in another bowl, stir together cream cheese, lemon zest and garlic. Set aside. 3 Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil, then arrange zucchini in an even layer. Cook until golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate, then sprinkle with half the lemon juice and season with salt.

FOOD & DRINK

AUTUMN 2021

Raw Rapini Salad Who knew you could use rapini as a salad green? Like mustard greens, they pack a sharp punch, so it’s best to season them aggressively and pair them with a milder green. If you don’t like the idea of discarding the rapini stems, give them a quick chop and toss them into your next pasta dish. 1 to 2 lemons 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil 1/2 cup (125 mL) finely grated pecorino, plus more for garnish 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 bunch rapini 8 cups (2 L) loosely packed baby kale or mixed greens 1/2 red finger chili, thinly sliced

1 Cut 2 slices from centre of 1 lemon. Discard seeds, then very finely chop slices (including skin and pith). You should have about 2 tbsp (30 mL). Transfer to a small bowl. Squeeze 1/4 cup (60 mL) of juice from remaining lemons into the bowl. Whisk in olive oil, pecorino, garlic, sugar and salt. Season to taste with black pepper.

Italian Cold Cut Sando This is the type of classic cold cut sandwich you’ll find in most Italian bakeries. We’ve opted for a ciabatta here, but you can use any large, soft but sturdy white loaf. A note on capicola: It’s best to purchase it directly from the deli counter along with the rest of your meats. The pre-sliced packaged stuff tends to be firmer and saltier. If your deli doesn’t have capicola, opt for prosciutto cotto instead. 1/2 cup (125 mL) mayonnaise 1 tbsp (15 mL) pepperoncini brine 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 tsp (5 mL) dried oregano 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar 1 large ciabatta loaf, cut in half horizontally 7 oz (200 g) sliced mortadella 7 oz (200 g) sliced spicy soppressata or spicy Genoa salami 7 oz (200 g) sliced capicola or prosciutto cotto 7 oz (200 g) sliced provolone 2 tomatoes, sliced, about 10 1/2 oz (300 g) 1/2 cup (125 mL) thinly sliced white onion 1/2 cup (125 mL) sliced pepperoncini peppers 1/2 cup (125 mL) loosely packed basil 6 cups (1.5 L) loosely packed arugula

1 Stir together mayonnaise, pepperoncini brine, garlic and oregano in a small bowl. 2 Whisk olive oil with red wine vinegar in another small bowl.

2 Trim leaves and florets from rapini stems. Discard stems. Tear any large leaves in half and cut any large florets lengthwise in half. Transfer to a large bowl. Add kale and chili. Drizzle in enough dressing to coat leaves (you may not need it all), then toss together. Transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with more pecorino.

3 To assemble, spread mayonnaise mixture on both halves of bread. Top bottom half with mortadella, soppressata, capicola, provolone and tomatoes. Top with onion, pepperoncini, basil and arugula. Drizzle red wine vinaigrette overtop. Close sandwich, then cut into 4 to 6 pieces.

Serves 4 to 6

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177

Roasted Cauliflower & oven-Dried Grapes

Pine Nut & Rosemary Brittle Pine nuts are an expensive ingredient, so it only makes sense to showcase them in whatever recipe you choose. Rosemary is an unexpected addition, but its presence is subtler than you might think. Rather than overpowering, it enhances the flavour of the pine nuts and cuts through the sweetness. Serve with an afterdinner coffee or a simple vanilla affogato. 1 sprig rosemary 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) pine nuts 1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar 1/4 cup (60 mL) light corn syrup 1 tsp (5 mL) orange liqueur, such as Cointreau or triple sec (optional) 1/2 tsp (2 mL) baking soda 1/2 tsp (2 mL) kosher salt

1 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat. 2 Strip leaves from rosemary sprig and finely chop 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL). Set aside (see TIP). Reserve sprig. 3 Melt butter with reserved rosemary sprig in a small pot over medium heat. Stir in pine nuts. Cook, stirring constantly, until butter has browned and pine nuts are golden, about 4 minutes. Immediately transfer to a small bowl and discard rosemary sprig. 4 Stir together sugar, corn syrup and 2 tbsp (30 mL) water in a medium pot. Brush away any sugar granules from the side of the pot with a wet pastry brush. Set pot over mediumhigh heat and bring to a boil. Cook, swirling occasionally, until sugar mixture turns light amber and an instant read thermometer registers 360°F (182°C), about 15 minutes. 5 Lower heat to medium-low, then, 1 at a time, stir in pine nut mixture, liqueur (if using), baking soda and salt. Continue stirring until mixture is uniform and several shades lighter in colour. Pour onto prepared baking sheet. Spread evenly with a heat-resistant spatula, then immediately sprinkle with chopped rosemary. Cool completely, then break into pieces. Brittle can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Use parchment or waxed paper to divide layers and prevent sticking. Serves 4 to 6

TIP Rosemary oxidizes quickly after chopping, so if you want to keep its vibrant green colour, prep it after your sugar mixture comes to a boil.

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Celery & Tarragon Soup We kept this simple Italian-inspired soup on the light side so you can comfortably serve it before a multi-course meal, but don’t skip the topping! The dates may seem a bit strange until you realize it’s essentially a grown-up version of ants on a log. 1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil 12 stalks celery, cut into 1/2-inch (1-cm) pieces, about 7 cups (1.75 L) 3 leeks, white and pale green parts only, chopped, about 3 cups (750 mL) 8 garlic cloves, chopped 1/2 tsp (2 mL) kosher salt 1 large yellow-flesh potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch (1-cm) pieces, about 2 cups (500 mL) 3-inch (8-cm) Parmesan rind 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable broth 1 cup (250 mL) packed parsley leaves, chopped 1/4 cup (60 mL) tarragon leaves, chopped

ALMOND & DATE TOPPNG 1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil 1/3 cup (80 mL) toasted and finely chopped almonds 1/4 cup (60 mL) grated Parmesan 2 Medjool dates, pitted and finely chopped Celery leaves for garnish

1 Heat a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add oil, then celery, leeks, garlic and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have softened and leeks are translucent, about 15 minutes. 2 Stir in potato, Parmesan rind and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Continue cooking until potato is very soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in parsley and tarragon, then remove from heat. 3 Meanwhile, to make topping, combine oil, almonds, Parmesan and dates in a small bowl.

Preheating your baking sheet cooks the cauliflower faster, letting it retain more of its raw crunch, an essential element when serving at room temperature (we don’t want to feel like we’re eating last night’s leftovers). The semi-dried grapes are a revelation. The technique may seem like a hassle, but it requires very little labour and the result is well worth the effort, as they keep more of their grapey flavour than the store-bought variety (a.k.a. raisins). That said, if you’re tight on time, you can easily swap them out for 1/2 cup (250 mL) golden raisins. 1 large head cauliflower 1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil, divided 1/2 tsp (2 mL) kosher salt 1/2 small shallot, finely chopped, about 2 tbsp (30 mL) 1/4 cup (60 mL) red wine vinegar 2 small garlic cloves 2 anchovy fillets 2 tbsp (30 mL) capers, chopped 1 tsp (5 mL) honey 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped parsley 1 cup (250 mL) Oven-Dried Grapes (recipe follows) 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped toasted pistachios

1 Position rack in bottom of oven. Put a large baking sheet in to preheat. Set oven to 475°F (246°C). 2 Coarsely grate 1 cup (250 mL) of cauliflower. Set aside. Cut remaining cauliflower into bitesized pieces. Transfer to a large bowl and toss with 1/4 cup (60 mL) oil and the salt. Carefully arrange cauliflower in a single layer on preheated baking sheet. Roast in oven until bottoms are deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Flip cauliflower and continue to cook until bottom is browned, about 5 minutes more. 3 Meanwhile, combine shallot and vinegar in the same large bowl you used to toss the cauliflower. Set aside. Finely chop garlic and anchovies, then, using the side of your knife, mash into a paste. Add paste to bowl with shallots. Stir in capers, honey and Dijon.

4 Working in batches, transfer soup to a blender and purée until smooth. Return to pot. Warm over medium heat, about 2 minutes. To serve, scatter with topping and garnish with celery leaves.

4 Add roasted cauliflower to bowl with dressing and let cool to room temperature. Stir in grated cauliflower, parsley and Oven-Dried Grapes. Transfer to a serving platter, then drizzle with remaining 1/4 cup (60 mL) oil. Sprinkle with pistachios.

Serves 6

Serves 4 to 6

AUTUMN 2021

FOOD & DRINK

OVEN-DRIED GRAPES Arrange rack in centre of oven. Preheat to 400°F (204°C). Separate grapes from stem of 1 large bunch seedless grapes. Toss with 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat. Transfer to oven, then immediately lower temperature to 225°F (107°C). Cook, stirring occasionally, until shrivelled and semi-dried, about 4 hours. (Exact timing will depend on the size of your grapes and your oven’s performance.)

Wine and dine

3 Carefully slide salmon fillets into poaching liquid—salmon should be fully immersed. If needed, add enough water to just cover fish. 4 Replace lid and simmer until salmon is cooked through, about 10 minutes, depending on thickness. 5 Meanwhile, stir reserved zest mixture with mayonnaise and season generously with black pepper to taste.

2 Make rosehip tea using 2 cups (500 mL) boiling water and loose-leaf tea. Let steep for 10 minutes.

Serves 4

3 In a large ovenproof skillet, heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil over medium-high heat. Season lamb to taste with salt. Add to skillet and cook until well-browned, about 10 minutes on each side, to build flavour.

WHAT TO SERVE

This salmon dish is lovely served warm with orzo and buttered spinach but is also wonderful when chilled and added to a salad the next day. If you can’t find tangerines, mandarins will work well. 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

1 Preheat oven to 325°F (163°C).

6 When salmon is cooked through, gently remove to a plate, drizzle with mayonnaise mixture and top with microgreens.

from page 94

Salmon Poached In White Wine With Tangerine & Bay Leaf

2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped garlic 2 tsp (10 mL) tomato paste 1 cup (250 mL) dry red wine 1/2 cup (125 mL) whole pitted green olives (stuffed manzanillas will work) 4 dried figs, quartered 5 cardamom pods, tied into small piece of cheesecloth (optional)

Wines made with Spain’s Albariño grape can be beautifully crisp and sometimes almost austere, but this citrus-and-herb salmon dish demands something lusher that still has bright and dry acidity. Try a floral and fruity version like this bottling, produced by an innovative growing co-operative. Paco & Lola Albariño VINTAGES 350041, $20.80

1/2 cup (125 mL) thinly sliced green onions 1 1/2-inch (4-cm) piece fresh ginger, sliced as thinly as possible

4 Remove lamb and set aside; discard oil. Heat remaining oil over medium-high heat and add onion and pepper flakes; cook for 5 minutes. Add garlic and tomato paste. Cook for another 5 minutes or until onion is tender. 5 Add red wine, olives, figs, cardamom, strained tea and lamb back into skillet. If needed, add enough water to come halfway up lamb; it does not need to be fully immersed. 6 Bring to a boil over high heat, cover and place in preheated oven.

2 fresh bay leaves 2 tangerines, zested on a rasp

7 Cook for 2 hours or until lamb is very tender, checking occasionally to make sure liquid hasn’t fully reduced. If needed, add 1 cup (250 mL) water and finish cooking.

1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 4 salmon fillets, each 6 oz (170 g), skin removed 1/4 cup (60 mL) mayonnaise Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup (250 mL) microgreens, divided

1 In a large deep-sided skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add green onions, ginger and bay leaves. Cook for 7 minutes or until onions and ginger are softened. 2 Place 1 tsp (5 mL) tangerine zest in a small bowl. Slice tangerines in half. Juice 1 half into the small bowl with zest, and set aside. Juice remaining halves into pan once onions and ginger are cooked. Place 4 tangerine halves, along with remaining zest, into pan. Add white wine, salt and 1 cup (250 mL) water. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Allow liquid to simmer for 10 minutes to allow flavours to be released.

FOOD & DRINK

AUTUMN 2021

Lamb Shoulder Chops With Rosehip, Fig & Green Olives The flavours in this dish are Middle Eastern in nature and lend themselves very well to lamb. The final result is both comforting and quite sophisticated, and is great served with a simple backdrop of couscous. 1/4 cup (60 mL) loose-leaf rosehip tea or 1 rosehip tea bag 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil, divided 2 lbs (905 g) lamb shoulder chops Salt to taste 2 cups (500 mL) coarsely chopped white onion 1/4 tsp (1 mL) red pepper flakes

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8 When lamb is ready, remove cardamom. Check sauce consistency: If sauce is too thin, reduce over medium heat to thicken. If it is too thick, add enough water to loosen and warm through before serving. Serves 4

WHAT TO SERVE In South Africa, local lamb and wines made with the country’s native Pinotage grape are a natural pairing. Rich with tart berry flavour and a wisp of smoke, Pinotage wines often have tones of herbs and spice that will be glorious with this unctuous lamb dish. The Grinder Pinotage LCBO 572107, $14.80

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TIP Tempeh, you say? This vegan protein is an excellent meat substitute for carnivores. Like tofu, it’s made from soy, but tempeh uses whole beans pressed into blocks. It has a nutty, satisfying flavour and readily soaks up marinades.

2 Discard oil and add plums, ginger and wine to pan. Stir over low heat while scraping up browned bits from pan. Add 1/2 cup (125 mL) water and oyster sauce, and simmer over low heat until plums have softened and sauce has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. 3 Slice pork into 1/2-inch (1-cm) slices and serve with Okonomiyaki, plums and sauce.

WHAT TO SERVE Tempeh & Mushroom Stroganoff You’ll never worry about whether this dish has meat in it or not, as it’s full of satisfying umami flavour and richness. 1/2 lb (225 g) plain tempeh (see TIP) 12 oz (340 g) portobello mushrooms, divided 3 whole cloves garlic, peeled 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh thyme 2 tbsp (30 mL) tamari or soy sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce 1/2 cup (125 mL) dry white wine 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter 2 cups (500 mL) finely chopped onions 2 tsp (10 mL) tomato paste 2 cups (500 mL) mushroom broth 1 tbsp (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1/2 cup (125 mL) full-fat sour cream 1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped flat leaf parsley Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1/2 lb (225 g) dried egg noodles, cooked to package instructions in well-salted water

1 In a food processor, pulse tempeh, 8 oz (225 g) mushrooms, garlic and thyme until crumbled. Place in a medium bowl and stir together with tamari, Worcestershire and wine. Let marinate for 20 minutes. 2 In a large skillet, heat butter over mediumhigh heat. Cook onions until tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Thinly slice remaining mushrooms. 3 Add tempeh mixture, sliced mushrooms and tomato paste to skillet. Cook over mediumhigh heat until mushrooms are softened and tempeh is browned, about 5 minutes. 4 Stir in broth and mustard, and reduce over medium-high heat for 5 minutes or until thickened slightly. Lower heat and stir in sour cream and parsley to combine. Reduce over low if needed to thicken. 5 Check for seasoning and serve over egg noodles. Serves 4

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The typical notes of a savoury Pinot Noir (think mushroom and nut scents) could wonderfully complement this stroganoff, but you don’t want to overwhelm the tempeh’s delicate texture with a red. A sparkling Pinot Noir, like this Chilean bottling with a suitably earthy note, makes our vegetarian dish festive and special. Cono Sur Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé LCBO 365205, $14.80

Serves 4

OKONOMIYAKI Okonomiyaki are Japanese stuffed pancakes that are normally made with cabbage but can have many other additions. Okonomi translates to “to your liking” and yaki means “cooked”—this simple version is a great accompaniment to the pork. 3 cups (750 mL) finely shredded Savoy cabbage, thick ribs trimmed away 1 cup (250 mL) finely chopped green onions 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped pickled ginger 3/4 cup (175 mL) panko bread crumbs 3 large eggs, lightly beaten Salt to taste 1/4 cup (60 mL) vegetable or canola oil, divided

1 In a large bowl, mix together cabbage, green onions, pickled ginger, panko, eggs and salt. Let sit for 20 minutes to soften slightly.

Pork Tenderloin With Okonomiyaki This pretty recipe creatively uses some of fall’s plentiful bounty of red plums and cabbage to make an elegant Japanese-inspired dish. Prepare the okonomiyaki first and keep warm until the pork tenderloin is ready. 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) whole pork tenderloin Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable or canola oil 2 large red plums, halved and pitted, and each cut into 10 equal slices 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped pickled ginger 1/2 cup (125 mL) red wine 2 tbsp (30 mL) oyster sauce Okonomiyaki (recipe follows)

1 Season pork to taste with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat and sear pork on 1 side for 5 minutes. Continue to sear on all 4 sides until evenly browned all over, about 15 minutes. Lower heat to medium and cook until meat thermometer inserted into thickest part reads 150°F (66°C). Set pork aside on plate, tent with foil and let rest.

2 Stir again just before cooking. 3 In a large skillet, heat half of the oil over medium-low heat and, using a large spoon, divide mixture into 4 separate piles in the skillet. Using a spatula, flatten piles and form into circles, trying to keep them separate. 4 Cover with lid and cook on medium for 5 minutes or until lightly browned. 5 Gently turn over, add remaining oil and continue cooking, covered, for another 5 minutes. Remove lid and continue to further brown each side if needed. 6 Serve warm. Makes 4

WHAT TO SERVE This dish will be redolent of plum aromas, and an Ontario VQA Gamay wine often has these rich cooked stone-fruit notes as well. The dish’s concentrated gingery and sweet flavours need a robust wine match: This medium-plus-bodied Gamay, dry but richly textured, is a winning pairing. Cave Spring Gamay VQA LCBO 228569, $16.80

AUTUMN 2021

FOOD & DRINK

A splash of whisky from page 184

STICKY BANANA PUDDING WITH WHISKY TOFFEE SAUCE When choosing bananas for this decadent dessert, err on the side of not-quite-ripe for the ones that top the pudding—it’ll make browning them a breeze. For the batter, use bananas that are as overripe as possible to provide the most depth and intensity of flavour. 2 tbsp + 3/4 cup (30 mL + 175 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided 2 just-ripe bananas, peeled and sliced lengthwise in half 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour 1 1/4 tsp (6 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 2 overripe bananas, peeled 3/4 cup (175 mL) lightly packed dark demerara sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) pure fancy molasses 2 eggs 1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) vanilla extract

bananas into batter, cut-sides up, so they are flush with top of batter. Cover tightly with 2 layers of foil and set into a ro ing pan or casserole dish large enough to hold it. 5 Transfer to centre rack of oven, then fill roasting pan with boiling water to come halfway up sides of pudding, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. Cover roasting pan with lid or foil. Bake until pudding is springy to the touch, 1 hour and 10 minutes. Very carefully remove lid or foil from roasting pan (steam will rise up) and remove pudding from water. Transfer to a cooling rack; remove foil. 6 For the sauce, combine sugar with cream, whisky, honey and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a full boil over high heat, then reduce to medium-high and continue cooking, whisking occasionally, to slightly thicken, about 6 minutes. Pour half of toffee sauce overtop of pudding, using back of a spoon to push to all edges, ensuring it is evenly absorbed. Let stand to cool slightly, 10 minutes. Serve with remaining toffee sauce, rewarming if needed. Serves 6 to 8

SAUCE 1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed dark demerara sugar 3/4 cup (175 mL) 35% cream 1/4 cup (60 mL) rye whisky 2 tbsp (30 mL) honey 1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C). Generously butter a 9 x 13-inch (3.8 L) baking dish. Boil a kettle of water. 2 For the pudding, melt 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter in a large frying pan set over medium-high heat. Add just-ripe bananas, cut-side down, and cook until lightly browned on 1 side, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to let cool. 3 In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt. In a medium bowl, mash overripe bananas with a stiff whisk, then continue working mixture, whisking until as smooth and uniform as possible. 4 Using a stand mixer, beat remaining 3/4 cup (175 mL) butter with sugar and molasses on medium speed until light, about 1 minute. Add eggs, 1 at a time, until almost combined, scraping down sides when needed. Add vanilla extract. Add flour mixture to butter mixture in 2 parts, alternating with mashed banana. Scrape batter into prepared pan; smooth top. Layer will be thin. Carefully press browned

FOOD & DRINK

AUTUMN 2021

Stew and improved from page 65

MUSHROOM BOURGUIGNON The iconic beef stew becomes plant-based with a trio of fungi and tempeh, a protein-rich cake of fermented soybeans originally from Indonesia. If you can’t find hon shimeji mushrooms, substitute an equal amount of oyster mushrooms pulled into strips. To make this dish vegan, simply swap in more olive oil for the butter. 2 cups (500 mL) vegetable or mushroom stock 1/2 oz (15 g) dried porcini mushrooms 2 lbs (905 g) small to medium cremini mushrooms 1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp (60 mL plus 15 mL) olive oil, divided Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter 8 large shallots, about 3/4 lb (340 g), peeled and halved through root ends 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped thyme 1 tbsp (15 mL) tomato paste 2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour 1 cup (250 mL) dry fruity red wine

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1 (150 g) package hon shimeji mushrooms, trimmed, separated 1 large carrot, about 8 oz (225 g), peeled and sliced 1/3 inch (8 mm) thick 1 bay leaf 1 (250 g) package plain tempeh, cubed Chopped parsley for garnish Mashed potatoes or buttered egg noodles for serving

1 In a small saucepan, heat stock until hot. Remove from heat and stir in porcini. Soak for 20 minutes. Remove porcini and squeeze dry. Place in sieve and rinse. Drain, dry, coarsely chop and set aside. Slowly pour soaking liquid into a bowl, leaving any sediment behind. Set aside. 2 Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3 In a large mixing bowl, toss cremini mushrooms with 1/4 cup (60 mL) oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to prepared sheet. Bake on bottom rack of oven until browned and tender, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven. 4 In a large heavy-duty pot, heat remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add shallots, cut-sides down. Cook until deeply browned, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and flip shallots. Cook for 2 minutes. Add garlic and thyme. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Sprinkle in flour. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add wine and porcini soaking liquid, stirring up any brown bits. Raise heat to high. When it comes to a boil, add porcini, roasted cremini mushrooms, hon shimeji, carrot and bay leaf. When it returns to a boil, partially cover and reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until carrots and shallots are soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in tempeh. Cook until it just heats through, about 2 minutes. Taste sauce for salt. 5 Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with noodles or mashed potatoes. Serves 4 to 6

WHAT TO SERVE This locally produced vegan-friendly red’s red berry flavours, and earth and herb tones provide a classic match for this mushroom-based stew. Cave Spring Pinot Noir VQA LCBO 417642, $19.95

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Market share

TIP

from page 47

Scatter any of the following into flour when you add salt and cayenne. 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh sage leaves 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh rosemary sprigs 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried chili flakes 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped dried cranberries

SMOKED TROUT SALAD Fortunately, farm-raised fresh and smoked trout are sold at many markets now. We’ve made it the star of this starter salad. Since capers and chopped onions are smoked fish’s best friends, we’ve incorporated them right into the salad. 1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) cider vinegar or white balsamic vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) honey Generous pinch salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) drained capers 3 thin slices Spanish or red onion 10 cups (2.5 L) mixed salad greens 6 oz (170 g) smoked trout

1 In a bowl, whisk oil with vinegar, Dijon, honey and salt. Add capers. Cut onion slices in half or quarters. Separate and stir into dressing. You can use right away, but best to let sit for a few hours. Refrigerate if leaving more than a day. 2 Just before serving, combine greens in a large bowl. Add dressing and toss. Place on individual salad plates and arrange pieces of trout on top or flake overtop. Serves 6

TURKEY MARKET TAGINE TIPS

If you prefer chicken over turkey, use about 2 lbs (905 g) skinless boneless chicken breasts, cut into 3 pieces each, or skinless boneless thighs, cut in half.

For a heartier version, pick up 4 sausages, such as Oktoberfest, at the market. Slice into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. Begin tagine by browning sausages in the oiled pan. Remove and brown turkey. Refrigerate sausages with browned turkey until vegetables have simmered 30 minutes. Then add sausage, turkey and collected juices to vegetable mixture.

To make ahead, prepare tagine to the end of step 6. Pour in the saffron water, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Reheat, covered and stirring often, until it comes to a boil. Then stir in pears and olives and heat through.

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WHAT TO SERVE NIPPY CHEDDAR COINS These appealing appetizers can be pulled from the cookie jar any time you want a flavour-forward nibble to serve with a glass of wine. They also make excellent hostess or take-away gifts. Lucky guests! 1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard, room temperature 1 cup (250 mL) packed grated extra-old white cheddar, about 3 oz (85 g) 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 1/4 tsp (1 mL) cayenne (optional)

1 Cut butter into 4 pieces and place in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Spoon Dijon on butter. Pulse until mixed. Sprinkle cheese over butter. Pulse until mixed in, scraping down sides when needed. Add flour. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne, if using (and other add-ins if desired; see TIP). Pulse until mixture becomes crumbly. Scrape down side, then whirl until a ball starts to form. Turn onto a lightly floured work surface and, using floured hands, form into 2 balls. 2 Place 1 ball on a sheet of waxed paper. Form into a 1 1/2 x 6 1/2-inch (4 x 16 cm) log. Running your finger over the log will help smooth it out. Roll up in waxed paper, then twist ends to seal. Repeat with remaining ball. Best to store in a firm-sided container. Refrigerate at least until cold or up to 4 weeks. Can also be sealed in plastic bags and frozen. 3 To bake, preheat oven to 375°F (191°C). 4 Remove a log from fridge. Slice into 1/4-inch (5 mm) thick rounds. Place at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake, 1 sheet at a time, until edges start to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Watch carefully near the end to avoid burning. Remove to a rack to cool. Repeat with remaining log. Store cooled cookies in a sealed container at room temperature or in refrigerator for up to a month. Makes about 45 coins

When served chilled, the soft, juicy red fruit flavours, attractive pepper notes and balanced acidity provide a refreshing match to these small bites. Malivoire Gamay VQA VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 591313, $19.95

STILTON TOASTS Cut eight 1/3-inch (8-mm) thick slices from a baguette. Toast on a baking sheet in a 450°F (232°C) oven until light golden. Crumble enough Stilton or creamy blue cheese to measure 3/4 cup (175 mL). Place in a bowl and add 2 tbsp (30 mL) melted butter. Mash with a fork (mixture will not be smooth). Place a scant tablespoon (15 mL) on each toast. Use a fork to spread over slices, right to edges. Place on a baking sheet. Just before serving, place under broiler, watching closely, until cheese just starts to melt, about 2 minutes.

ONTARIO 75 Locavores rejoice! This twist on a classic offers the perfect opportunity to show off homegrown ingredients such as craft gin, wild honey and sparkling wine. 1 oz local gin 1/2 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 oz Honey Syrup (recipe follows) 3 to 4 oz local sparkling wine Lemon twist for garnish Lavender or thyme sprig for garnish

1 Pour gin, lemon juice and Honey Syrup into an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Shake until chilled. Using a julep strainer, pour into a Champagne flute or coupe. Top with sparkling wine. Rub edge of glass with lemon twist. Garnish with lavender sprig and lemon twist. Makes 1 cocktail

HONEY SYRUP To create honey syrup, mix equal parts honey (preferably a local floral one) and water in a small bowl or container.

AUTUMN 2021

FOOD & DRINK

Recipe Index The following is a listing of the recipes contained in this issue. For recipes from previous issues, visit lcbo.com/foodanddrink

CONDIMENTS & SIDES

SOUPS & SALADS 165

The Best Garlic Bread

176

Caraway Cabbage Slaw

142

Cumin Lime Carrot Jam

169

Celery & Tarragon Soup

178

Herb-Pickled Mushrooms

170

Ciderhouse Salad

166

Okonomiyaki

180

Raw Rapini Salad

177

Oven-Dried Grapes

179

Roasted Squash & Parsnip Soup with Stilton Toasts

Smoked Trout Salad

182

Beet & Horseradish Salad

MAIN COURSES

Roasted Cauliflower & Oven-Dried Grapes 178 Sherry Apple Ginger Walnut Conserve

168

Stilton Toasts

182

Tomato, Corn & Pepper Salsa

168

Turkish-Style Green Beans

144

Alpine Vegetable Stew

DESSERTS & BAKED GOODS

Cassoulet-Style Baked Beans with Bacon & Garlic

176

Apple-Carrot Cake with Pumpkin Spiced Icing

Christina’s Go-To Lemon-&-ButterRoasted Chicken

172

Nippy Cheddar Coins

182

Pine Nut & Rosemary Brittle

178

Daniel’s Pasture-Raised Roast Chicken

170 177

Sticky Banana Pudding with Whisky Toffee Sauce

181

Italian Cold Cut Sando Lamb Shoulder Chops with Rosehip, Fig & Green Olives

179

COCKTAILS & MIXERS

Mushroom Bourguignon

181

Beet Ginger Beer

166

Beet Ginger Mule

166

Pork Tenderloin with Okonomiyaki

180

Capo Americano

165

Ricky’s Weekend Roast Chicken with Adobo Pan Sauce

172

Cinnamon-Scented Black Manhattan

166

Salmon Poached in White Wine with Tangerine & Bay Leaf

179

Crema Corretto

138

Honey Syrup

182

Horseradish-Infused Gin

167

Slow-Roasted Chicken with Four Heads of Garlic

174

Spaghetti with Garlicky Raw Tomato Sauce & Goat Cheese

176

Squash Tart with Garlic Confit, Gruyère & Rosemary

174

Tempeh & Mushroom Stroganoff

180

Items photographed, but not listed, are from personal collections.

167

The Manhattan

150

INSIDE SCOOP

Monte Mula

165

The Old Fashioned

152

Page 26 LIGHT FIXTURES Candlesticks, from Cylinder Studio, cylinderceramics.com.

Ontario 75

182

Paperino

165

Peppercorn-Infused Brandy

167

Vegan Green Curry with Tofu & Cashews

Plum & Peppercorn Sangria

167

The Sour

148

The Veggie Muffuletta

177

Spicy Pumpkin Lemonade & Whiskey

167

AUTUMN 2021

Source Resource

Horseradish Martini

Turkey Market Tagine

FOOD & DRINK

STEW AND IMPROVED Page 66 Handmade black cooking pot, from Oak & Oasis, etsy.com/shop/OakandOasis.

183

THE BACK PAGE

A splash of whisky

This sauce can pull double duty as a topping for ice cream.

Spiked with spicy rye whisky, sumptuous toffee sauce cloaks banana pudding like your favourite fall sweater. By Michelle Lucas Larving photography by darren kemper

Sticky Banana Pudding with Whisky Toffee Sauce Recipe on page 181 An indulgent toffee sauce pays homage to the classic butterscotch flavour we love—with the great Canadian addition of rye whisky. It’s poured directly over a rich banana pudding straight from the oven, where it’s been steamed to yield a soft and tender crumb suited to soaking up the superb sauce.

WHAT WE USED Underappreciated in the pastry kitchen, rye whisky adds flavours of baking spices, vanilla and toffee to complement this dessert. We used Dillon’s Rye Whisky (LCBO 14915, $49.95), made from 100 percent Ontario rye and aged for four years in three types of oak barrels.

184

Timing is everything, as this dessert is best served immediately.

AUTUMN 202 1

FOOD & DRINK

A taste of the future. Introducing the first-ever IONIQ 5.

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