Food

WHYNOT TRY…?

Buying guide

Ripe tomatoes feel firm but yield to slight pressure. Don’t squeeze too hard; they bruise easily. Store at room temperature for about 2 days.

Rainbow bright

Some of the common heirloom varieties you’ll find in the market (also shown here) include: Brandywines, which are similar to beefsteaks; Sungolds, which are like cherry tomatoes but sweeter; and tart, firm Green Zebras—try frying ’em!

Written by Heath Goldman Recipes by Robin Bashinsky Photographs by Greg DuPree Food Stylingby Chelsea Zimmer

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES

Meet the ugly ducklings of the tomato family: oddly shaped, splotchy, and split, but also spectacular. Heirlooms are rare—and, yes, pricey—varieties grownfor pure-summer flavor, not pictureperfect looks.These recipes let their inner beauty shine.

1

Rosemarylamb with tomato-yogurt sauce

Combine 2 Tbsp. each OLIVEOIL, chopped ROSEMARY, and chopped GARLIC; rub on 2 (8-rib) RACKS OFLAMB. Grill, covered, over medium-high until a thermometer registers 140°F, 20 to 30 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. each SEASALT and PEPPER. Slice the ribs. Combine 1 cup PLAIN YOGURT and ½ cup chopped HEIRLOOM TOMATOES; serve the lamb topped with more chopped TOMATOES. SERVES 4

2

Tomato and cantaloupe shrub

Combine 2 cups each halved HEIRLOOM

CHERRYTOMATOES and chopped CANTALOUPE, 12 oz. (1½ cups) GIN, ½ cup torn

BASIL LEAVES, ¼ cup CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR, and 2 Tbsp. HONEY in a bowl. Chill 8 hours. Pour ⅔ cup CLUB SODA into each of 6 glasses filled with ice; top with ⅓ cup of the chilled gin mixture plus some of the tomato, cantaloupe, and basil.

SERVES 6

3

Charred tomatoes and peppers

Heat a cast-iron skillet over high until hot; add 2 Tbsp. OLIVE OIL. Add 8 oz. SHISHITO PEPPERS; cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add 1½ cups halved

HEIRLOOM CHERRY TOMATOES, ¼ cup PINE NUTS, and 1 tsp. KOSHERSALT. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are charred, 5 minutes.

Serve with TOASTED BREAD. SERVES 4

4

Tomato-watermelon granita

Process 6 cups chopped WATERMELON,

2cups chopped HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, ¾cup water, ½ cup HONEY, 2 Tbsp. APPLE

CIDER VINEGAR, and ½ tsp. KOSHER SALT in a blender until smooth. Pour into a 2-qt. freezer-safe dish. Freeze 6 hours, stirring the mixture thoroughly with a fork every hour to incorporate the ice crystals. Serve garnished with BASIL LEAVES. SERVES 6

5

Southern tomato sandwich

Combine ½ cup MAYONNAISE, 1 Tbsp.

FRESH LEMON JUICE, 1 finely chopped GARLIC CLOVE, and 1 tsp. BLACK PEPPER. Spread on 1 side of 4 (½-inch-thick) slices of WHITEBREAD and top evenly with 4 large, sliced HEIRLOOM TOMATOES. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. KOSHERSALT and cover with 4 bread slices. SERVES 4

6

Green gazpacho

Process 4 cups roughly chopped GREEN ZEBRATOMATOES, 1 cup peeled, chopped

CUCUMBER, ¼ cup OLIVE OIL, 2 tsp. RED WINE VINEGAR, 1 tsp. KOSHERSALT, ¼ tsp. CAYENNE PEPPER, and 2 slices WHITE BREAD in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in 1 pt. halved HEIRLOOM CHERRYTOMATOES and another 1 cup finely chopped cucumber. Chill 1 hour. Serve in 4 bowls with a dollop of SOUR CREAM on top. SERVES 4

KITCHENSKILLS

Things Cooks Know

Simplifying strategies, techniques, and tips— from the Real Simple test kitchen toyours

SAVE FOR LATER

Cool your shrub to room temperature and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

What’s a shrub?

Yes, it’s a short plant that grows in your backyard. But it’s also a concentrated syrup made by cooking vinegar, fruit, and sugar. In Colonial times, using vinegar and sugar was a way to preserve fresh fruit. Today shrubs have made a comeback on cocktail menus. The syrup is often combined with alcohol, club soda, and ice. Turn to page 190 for an easy Tomato and Cantaloupe Shrub recipe.

GENIUS TIP REMOVING FISH PINBONES

Most fillets from the freezer aisle or the fish counter come deboned. But sometimes a few pesky, minuscule bones— called pinbones—remain. They can be tough to find,so use this quick

Written by

Heath Goldman

Illustrations by

Melinda Josie

trick:Place a mixing bowl upside down on the counter and drape the fillet, skin-side down, over it. The curved surface will make the pinbones stick up. Grab them and pull them out with tweezers or needle-nose pliers.

In general, delicate pastas pair with light sauces and thicker pastas pair with heavier ones.

ODDPASTA SHAPES

There’s a whole world beyond penne that’s worth exploring. Get to know our six favorite picks.

NAME WHAT IT IS HOWTO EAT IT

DITALINI NI

G GEMEL ELLI

PACCHERI

Short, small tubes. Translated from the Italian, ditalini means “little thimbles.” In soups, like minestrone, because it cooks quickly.

Gemelli is the word for “twins.” Each piece looks like two thick strands twisted together.

A large, tubular pasta. The root word, pacca, means “slap”—the sound the pasta makes when tossed with sauce. With oil-based sauces that can drizzle down the strands.

With tomato and oil-based sauces, which coat the smooth sides in a slick layer.

CAMPANELLE

LUMACONI

REGINETTE

A cone-shaped pasta with ruffled edges. Campanelle means “bells.” With creamy sauces. The thick ruffles stand up to a heavier topping.

Lumaca is the word for “snail.” Lumaconi (essentially meaning “large snails”) have one side pinched close.

A long, ruffly pasta named for the Italian princess Mafalda of Savoy. Reginette (“little queens”) are also called mafaldine. With hearty sauces filled with vegetables. The pasta’s hollows scoop them up.

Tossed with wilted greens or bacon. The shapes complement each other.

BIG BATCH

Sheet-tray pizzas

ACTIVE TIME 30MINUTES TOTAL TIME 1 HOUR MAKES 2 (8-SLICE) PIZZAS

Recipe by Heath Goldman Photograph by Christopher Testani Food Stylingby Chris Lanier

½cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1½lb. hot Italian sausage, casings removed 2lb. frozen pizza dough, atroom temperature 12oz. fresh mozzarella, sliced 2cups marinara sauce 1small fennel bulb, thinlysliced 2serranopeppers, thinlysliced 4oz. freshly grated

Parmesan 1Tbsp. black pepper

HOW TOFREEZE ANDREHEAT

Tightly wrap each sheet tray with 2 layersofplastic wrapandalayeroffoil. Freeze for up to 1 month. Bake the pizzas directly from the freezer accordingto therecipe,adding8to 10 minutes to the cooking time.

NEW COLUMN!

Every month, we’ll serve up a dinner recipe that makes a lot—to serve a crowd or freeze for later.

PREHEAT the oven to 450°F. Heat ¼ cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the sausage and break into small pieces. Cook, undisturbed, until browned, 8 minutes. Remove from heat. MEANWHILE, line two 8-by13-inch baking sheets with parchment. Stretch 1 ball of the dough until it reaches the edges of a baking sheet. Brush with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Dimple the dough with your fingers. Repeat with the second ball. Bake both crusts for 5 to 7 minutes, until puffy and dry on top. Remove the crusts from the oven. Increase oven temperature to 500°F. Cool the crusts completely. DIVIDE the mozzarella between the 2 pizzas and dollop each with the marinara. Divide the sausage between the pizzas, along with the fennel, serrano peppers, Parmesan, and black pepper. If freezing for later, follow the instructions at left. BAKE on the bottom rack until the crust is brown and the top is bubbly, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and slice each pizza into 8 pieces.

re al simp l e ROAD TEST

ROAD TEST

MEAL KITS

They’re cropping up everywhere—but whichreally deliver? Real Simple staffers ordered and cooked from 15 national servicesto find out.

Written by Heath Goldman Photographs by Ralph Smith

ROAD TEST

HOW ’BOUTA DRINK? Greenblender Smoothies Convenient for family breakfast on the go, this subscription delivers five weekly smoothie recipes that go beyond bananastrawberry. (Think Matcha Apple Pie.) Also included: supercute straws. All you need to do is add ice. TO BUY: Smoothies start at $4 a serving, green blender.com.

BEST FOR BEGINNERS Blue Apron Recipes from many of the services tended to be long and complicated, but Blue Apron consistently provided streamlined, unfussy instructions that explained cooking techniques, like exactly how to zest a lemon. The website also gives you the option to order kitchen tools you might not own. TOBUY: Meals start at $9 a serving, blueapron.com.

FASTEST TO PREPARE FreshRealm Ingredients come in a mini refrigerator (FedEx picks it up from your door the next day) and are fully prepped—no chopping, grating, or peeling. Love Real Simple recipes? Our food staff helps develop the lineup. TOBUY: Meals start at $5.25 a serving, freshrealm.co.

Illustrations by Holly Wales

MOST CUSTOMIZABLE Plated Testers praised the minimal ingredients and the easy instructions for the regular weekly meals. But you can also upgrade with add-ons, like specialty seafood, meat (herbed lamb chops), and dessert (flourless chocolate cake). TOBUY: Meals start at $12 a serving, plated.com.

BEST ORGANIC Green Chef Most national services focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, but this one also delivers certified organic. Each meal takes about 30 minutes and includes a premade sauce (like romesco or honey buffalo) that jumpstarts flavor. TOBUY: Meals start at $10.50 a serving, greenchef.com.

MOST ECLECTIC PeachDish This Atlanta-based company delivers southerninspired meals from prominent chefs (Steven Satterfield, Virginia Willis). Yes, there are grits—but also bright Baby Beets with Sweet Potato Greens and Tomato–Vidalia Onion Pie. TO BUY: Meals start at $11.25 a serving, peachdish.com.

WORRIED ABOUT THEENVIRONMENT?

Much of the plastic used by these winning kits (and, of course, the cardboard) can be recycled. Check your local regulations for details.