Tomatito

Tomatito Holy Smokes Dish RESTAURANTS

Co-owner Dani Aliaga and head chef Carlos Franco.

AN EXPLOSION OF FLAVOR

At Tomatito, chef Willy Trullas Moreno does away with geography to focus on flavor.

REVIEW BY SASHA LIM UY MARIPOSA

Anyone who knows Willy Trullas Moreno’s story will be impressed. The jubilant chef makes frequent visits to Manila, and when you get the chance to see him, you’ll know immediately that he’s in charge. Not so much because he’s wearing the most flamboyant jacket in the kitchen (he has nearly every print known to man), but because his energy steals the show every time. Abroad, chef Willy had the difficult task of converting the Chinese—sticklers for tradition—into Spanish-food lovers. Now he owns several successful restaurants in

Shanghai and Hong Kong.

But you’ll never know all this if he doesn’t approach you during your meal at Tomatito to make sure everything is okay and then eventually engage you in conversation. What you do know, however, is the food in front of you: a beautiful roll of salmon over a puffed up piece of pastry—you get the familiar flavor of fish, a light sweetness from the drizzling of honey then, suddenly, an explosion of heat.

There’s more than just Spanish food here. The tiradito, Peru’s take on ceviche, is bright and intense, designed to be eaten with the tangy sauce for maximum impact.

The mini hamburgers, though cooked Latinstyle according to the menu, are still pretty

American in terms of appeal. And the seared foie gras on toast? There’s no need to explain where that dish came from. Carlos Franco, the Lou Diamond Phillips-lookalike head chef of Tomatito, is from Mexico and he brings the flavors of his homeland to the restaurant. His croquettes, packed with Manchego cheese and chorizo, detonate into crunchy, spicy, cheesy goodness in your mouth.

You might not have known that chef Willy started serving his Spanish food with chopsticks, but you do know that he’s all about merging flavors, textures, and influences—all for the sake of coming up with something remarkable.

Tomatito is all about the details. From the indented trays that carry the cheese-stuffed air baguettes wrapped with paper-thin tenderloin steak, to chef Carlos’s playful dessert with Lego-shaped chocolate, to the flamenco fans that adorn the wallpaper, each element adds a richness to the entire dining experience. And as for the whimsical walls? Well, that’s just chef Willy being fun (the interiors were designed by his brother Max).

You don’t need to meet the fun-loving chef to understand what Tomatito is all about. This bright red, energetic spot with the loud flavors and vibrant profiles is all him.

Ceviche de Atun

IN A NUTSHELL

TOMATITO G/F BGC Corporate Center, 11th Avenue Corner 30th Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City (tel. no. 805-7840)

MUST-TRIES Salmon TNT (P595), Croquetas don Julio (P375), Tiradito de Pescado Blanco (P295), Filete con Airbag (P295), Paella Valenciana (P795), Las Locuras de Carlos (P695)

THUMBS UP Can’t decide what to order? Go for the chef’s recommended set menu for P1,200 per person.