Molto delizioso! There’s no other way to describe Va Bene Pasta Deli. It’s very, very good! REVIEW BY SASHA LIM UY
PHOTOGRAPHY: TOTO LABRADOR. PICTORIAL DIRECTION: REGINE RAFAEL.
C
hef Massimo Veronesi works in the spirit of tradition. His pastas are handmade, and his style casual and welcoming—in a way only Italians could be. This is nothing new, of course. Veronesi used to head Mi Piace at The Peninsula Manila before converting his pasta pickup place into a full-service restaurant. In 2011, Va Bene developed a cult following almost instantly despite its size. Its charm largely stemmed from its status as an open secret, a gem in the most unlikely of places—a gas station. Now the chef is faced with a bigger challenge: Va Bene’s second space sits in a shiny new mall. Thankfully, despite the new, modern location, the restaurant still has that same charm, the homey Italian ambience, with the waitstaff periodically checking if guests are having a good time. Indeed, a trip to any of the two Va Bene branches is like a visit to the Veronesi home (the number on their website even connects you directly to Carolyn, his wife) where the pasta is always amazing and even an old pairing (like melon and prosciutto) is always exciting. The Pappardelle, with lamb shank braised for 12 hours and Italian sausage, is still wonderful—wide ribbons are tossed with more than an ample amount of meat, perked up by olives and tomatoes. The Potato Gnocchi is still pillowy and rich, but balanced and beautiful. For those days when the usual Black Ink Tagliolini needs to be put on hold, the Lobster and Prawns Cappellacci is an impressive alternative. A type of ravioli, the cappellacci is also infused with squid ink, hugging whole pieces of shrimp and swimming in a tasty lobster bisque sauce; more shrimps are sprinkled all over the plate. The fourth time the server asked me about the food, I could only nod—in a way only good tiramisu can render the most talkative people quiet. I was relishing the cool, creamy mascarpone as it danced with crunchy biscuits and deep coffee notes. The chef’s skills have been tested—and proven in the kitchen, wherever the kitchen may be. Clearly, in this bigger playground, his talents have grown.
Lobster and Prawns Cappellacci
in a nutshell VA BENE Cinema Level, Central Square, Bonifacio High Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City; mobile no.: 0917-7225789 MUST-TRIES Parma Ham (P490), Pappardelle (P460), Lobster and Prawns Cappellacci (P590), Potato Gnocchi (P410), 12-hour Braised Veal Cheeks (P890), Traditional Italian Tiramisu (P280)
Tiramisu
THUMBS UP Va Bene’s lineup of menu specials constantly evolves, but you can bet all the dishes are worth a try—you just might miss them when they’re gone.
WWW.YUMMY.PH Ć MARCH 2015
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