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BY SARI JORGE

In Thailand, grilled chicken (gai yang) is everywhere—at fancy restaurants, street-side stalls, and at dinner tables in each home. You’ll find a number of variations of this dish throughout the country, as you go from region to region. But what do all these versions have in common? Two ingredients: lemongrass and fish sauce. Without them, you can’t call your gai yang authentic.

Gai yang is made by marinating chicken then grilling it over hot charcoal until the skin is golden brown. It’s usually served with green papaya salad and Thai sticky rice.

Nearly every local dish gets me excited when I’m in Bangkok, but nothing makes my mouth water more than the smell of grilled chicken. I can’t help it—whether I’m walking around at the night market or sightseeing around the city, I stop by the stalls selling gai yang and have a quick meal to satisfy my craving.

So the next time you’re in Bangkok, don’t forget to try it!

About the columnist

For Sari Jorge, food has always been instrumental in bringing her family together. Thanks to a doting grandmother who made sure her grandchildren knew their way around the kitchen, she has been cooking since she was 10 years old. These days, she channels this same love for cooking into a thriving business, 25 Mushrooms Kitchen, where she teaches cooking classes for household helpers. Aside from food, Sari is passionate about playing squash, collecting paintings and antiques, and traveling.

GAI YANG (THAI-STYLE GRILLED CHICKEN)

Serves 6 Prep Time 30 minutes, plus marinating time Cooking Time 40 minutes

2 stalks lemongrass, pounded then chopped 4 cilantro roots, chopped 3 cloves garlic, pounded 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce (patis) 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 1 tablespoon lime juice 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/4 cup coconut milk 1 (1.5-kilo) whole chicken, butterflied

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE

21/2 tablesp oons lemon juice 2 tablespoons fish sauce (patis) 2 tablespoons palm sugar 1 teaspoon sugar 1 bird’s eye chili (siling labuyo), minced 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro (wansoy), divided 2 teaspoons toasted glutinous rice (malagkit), pounded (optional)

1 Pound together lemongrass, cilantro roots, and garlic. Transfer to a bowl. Add soy sauce, fish sauce, dark soy sauce, oyster sauce, lime juice, pepper, brown sugar, turmeric, and coconut milk; mix together. 2 Pour over chicken, making sure to get some under the skin. Marinate in the refrigerator, covered, overnight. 3 Make the dipping sauce: Mix together lemon juice, fish sauce, and sugars in a bowl. Pound chili, garlic, and 2 tablespoons cilantro to a paste; add to lemon juice mixture. Add rice, if using. Season to taste. Set aside. 4 Heat a charcoal grill or grill pan over medium heat. Grill chicken until golden and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Chop into smaller pieces and garnish with remaining cilantro. Serve with dipping sauce on the side.