Southern

Southern comforts

Fireside by Kettle.

REVIEW BY RYAN FERNANDEZ

I’ll come clean this time: Having never tried Kettle in Shangri-La mall, my mind and palate were blank slates when I visited its younger sibling, Fireside. While I avoided looking it up on blogs, some friends eagerly jumped the gun. “The buttermilk fried chicken is to die for!” gushed one. “Meat. It’s all about the meat…” trailed off another. In an industry that’s tapping almost every possible cuisine, Fireside tickles our brains with the things we intrinsically love: simple but hearty fare, hefty portions for sharing, and savory meats.

Chef Chiloy Santos fl uently translates these to the hearty food of the American South. This he pulls off with menacing uppercuts of barbecued meats, gratuitous slaw, and heaps of cornbread enough to render your knees wobbly. There’s the 50/50 Meatloaf made with Angus beef and bacon. It comes branded with grill marks and effortlessly pulls apart in soft congealed chunks, making it a softer, more tender specimen. You will quickly taste the pork fat—and that’s a good thing! Hickory barbecue sauce is served on the side.

There’s also the stellar buttermilk fried chicken fi ngers, the centerpiece to any Fireside visit. This ode to the famous Dinosaur Bar-B-Que in upstate New York comes in a pile of meaty strips brined for a day. It’s then breaded with a mix of crushed Ritz crackers and Cajun spice—a blend which often includes paprika, thyme, oregano, and cayenne pepper. The result is impressive: The meat is tender and crisp, leaving a spicy tingle with every mouthful. Gobble it up with the cornbread doughnuts—the balls of dough are pure bliss when drenched in maple syrup.

There’s no shortage of protein options, but two dishes stand out. The fi rst is a succulent Double Cut Pork Chop brined in honey cider, and served with roasted vegetables and sweet apples. The second is the Fireside House Burger, Chiloy’s answer to the comfort food pyramid. A half-pound Angus patty is smothered with pepper Jack and cheddar, then stacked high with fried onion and zucchini strings. Russian dressing is dabbed on for a kick of horseradish and spices.

It’s easy to like the chef’s creations. Many are gussied up versions of lunchbox favorites or greasy-spoon specials. As long as the chicken is crisp and the meat is charred in all the right places, Fireside will always be a second home to visit for satisfying comfort food.

Fireside House Burger Buttermilk Fried Chicken Fingers

in a nutshell

FIRESIDE BY KETTLE

3/F Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, Mandaluyong City; tel. no.: 532-1807

MUST-TRIES Buttermilk Fried Chicken Fingers (P489), 50/50 Meatloaf (P389), Fireside House Burger (P449), Double Cut Pork Chop (P519), Homemade S’mores (P139)

THUMBS UP There’s more reason to celebrate! Host a party at their private room at the back.