INSIDE: RESTAURATEURS SHARE THEIR FAVORITES. Wednesday, January 22, 2020
Chad Lawhorn/Journal-World Photo Olivia Lawhorn/Special to the Journal-World
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15 quirky, freaky & fun food finds I
’m definitely not a restaurant critic, and I’ve found it is dangerous to be a food critic. (The things that can be done with a turkey baster when you tell the chef the bird is a bit dry ...) But writing about restaurants is one of my favorite tasks. One of the reasons why is because I almost always peruse the menu and find something that sounds delicious, unique or just plain weird. So, for the JournalWorld’s first attempt at a special section highlighting the area’s restaurant industry, I thought it would be fun to look back at some of those 2019 finds. But, before I do that, a word about this section.
About Crave
TOWN
TALK
Chad Lawhorn
clawhorn@ljworld.com
Lawrence seems to love restaurants. They’ve become a part of our identity, in some ways, and certainly a major part of our entertainment scene. With that in mind, we wanted to do something that gave readers a bit more of an extended look at Lawrence restaurant industry. In this section, you can see interviews with four restaurant owners or chefs. Hopefully, you’ll also take time to look at the ads and learn something about
Crave is a community newspaper section distributed every Wednesday to more than 40,000 households in Lawrence and
a handful of restaurants too. This is our first effort at creating a special section for area restaurants. As such, I would enjoy hearing from you about what you hope future sections may include. Reach out to me at clawhorn@ljworld.com Enough with the appetizers, though. Let’s get to the main dish. Here are 15 restaurant items that caught my eye in 2019:
The Big Pig and pork belly jam Lucia Beer Garden & Grill, 1016 Massachusetts St. As the parent of kids who raise 4-H hogs, I’ve had a pork belly put me in a jam before. (I still don’t know
surrounding communities. The content of Crave is focused on food, dining, community events and other features. Crave is delivered both
Olivia Lawhorn/ Special to the Journal-World
how that hog ended up behind the wheel of a demo derby car.) But I like the sound of Cheesy Street’s pork belly jam much better. The new grilled cheese restaurant inside Lucia Beer Garden & Grill serves pork belly jam as part of its Big Pig grilled cheese sandwich. In addition to the jam — which has some coffee, brown sugar, pork belly and other ingredients — the sandwich comes with ham, hickory smoked bacon, melted cheese and artisan sourdough.
S’mores doughnut Humble Donut Co., 4801 Bauer Farm Drive
A doughnut shop next
with the Lawrence Journal-World newspaper and as a stand-alone newspaper free of charge to select households throughout the area.
to my high school would have been more dangerous than even the Bunsen burner in the chemistry lab. But doughnuts have arrived virtually next door to Free State High School. Humble Donut Co. has opened inside Orange Leaf Frozen Yogurt, 4801 Bauer Farm Drive. The shop has a unique system that makes mini-doughnuts to order. A unique one on the menu is the s’mores doughnut. It has chocolate icing topped with graham cracker, chocolate chips and marshmallow drizzle. No campfire is used, but maybe a Bunsen burner?
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Manager says La Tropicana is full of family history By Kathy Hanks lll
khanks@ljworld.com Catalina Martin del Campo, manager of La Tropicana in North Lawrence, recently told the Journal-World more about her family’s tradition as restaurateurs and about trends in Latin cuisine. Kathy Hanks/Journal-World Photo La Tropicana, 434 Locust St., is open 11 FROM LEFT, LAURA MARTIN DEL CAMPO, SEVERINA MARTIN a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 DEL CAMPO AND CATALINA MARTIN DEL CAMPO are pictured p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday at La Tropicana. through Friday and Carne con chile in a skillet on low and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on served with Span- slow on the stovetop. It Saturdays. ish rice, refried beans has flavorful and tender What’s your fa- and warm flour tortillas. textures and colors with vorite item on It has a touch of spice fresh peppers and red your restaurant’s menu? with chunks of pork fried tomatoes.
A:
Q:
‘‘
Our mother, Severina, and late father, Jesse Sr., taught us how to cook their very own recipes.”
— Catalina Martin del Campo, manager of La Tropicana
If you like spicy (food), this is truly an authentic Mexican dish. How did you get into this profession? Our family business opened in 1967. I believe we are the oldest family-owned restaurant with original owners in the same location in Lawrence. Our mother, Severina, and late father, Jesse Sr., taught us how to cook their very own recipes. I, Catalina, being the youngest
Q: A:
daughter, started in the kitchen at the age of 10, cooking side-by-side with my parents. Laura (the secondoldest daughter) has been managing the kitchen for 30 years. Now she is adding her very own flair to dishes we serve today. What is the one trend in food that you are most excited about right now? That there is an explosion of mixing Latin recipes that combine old and new flavors
Q: A:
that bring a new taste to Latin cuisine Other than your own restaurant, what restaurant would you most like to eat at in Lawrence? Papa Kenos, 715 or 6 Mile Chop House and Tavern. How do you go about trying to balance the ideas of healthy eating and creating a really flavorful dish? We really don’t have that issue. We cook everything fresh daily. What’s your best advice for someone who is trying to become a better cook? Don’t be afraid to try new recipes and practice, practice, practice.
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A: Q: A:
Q: A:
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Nagoya owners focused on healthy Japanese fare By Kathy Hanks
‘‘
Japanese food is based on fish. We have to make more varieties, but fish is healthy.”
lll
khanks@ljworld.com Michelle Yu, who owns Nagoya Japanese Cuisine with her husband, Vincent, spoke to the Journal-World about the restaurant’s efforts to offer healthy Japanese options. Nagoya, 711 W. 23rd St., is open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Fridays; noon to 10 p.m. on Saturdays; and noon to 9 p.m. on Sundays, according to its Facebook page. The restaurant is closed on Mondays. What is your favorite item on your restaurant’s menu? The Avocado Bomb is Kathy Hanks/Journal-World Photo the customers’ favorite. But, my personal favorite MICHELLE YU HOLDS A PLATTER OF YUZU SALMON at Nagoya Japanese is yuzu salmon, which is sushi Cuisine. Behind her is her husband, Vincent Yu. salmon with a spicy Japanese sauce made from green or yelMy husband, Vincent We have three kids and his low yuzu zest. How did you get into the Yu, and I have been parents. profession? here 3 1/2 years. We have to Vincent is the chef and I am make a living for our family. the server; we have always
Q: A:
A:
Q:
—Michelle Yu, co-owner of Nagoya Japanese Cuisine
looked for work as a chef and server. This space was open and we thought, “Let’s do this.” What is the one trend in food you are most excited about right now? That is a difficult question. We have added a ramen bowl. We are trying to make the food healthy and move away from greasy. Japanese food is based on fish. We have to make more varieties, but fish is healthy. The presentation is everything. Other than your own restaurant, what restaurant would you most like to eat at in Lawrence? I like to go to Encore Cafe and Zen Zero and Korean food at O Cafe.
Q: A:
Q:
A:
How do you go about tryQ: ing to balance the ideas of healthy eating and creating a
really flavorful dish? Our goal is to have healthy and flavorful dishes. What’s your best advice for someone who is trying to become a better cook? Have a dedicated heart. Vincent prepares his dishes with his heart. He will always have me taste each new dish before he brings it out. A chef with a dedicated heart knows what the customer likes and needs. I can always create something they are specifically asking for. Every customer is special at Nagoya. Good food is important, but so is good service.
A: Q: A:
Terrebonne owner loves Lawrence’s varied restaurant scene By Kathy Hanks lll
khanks@ljworld.com Greg Renck, owner of Terrebonne Cafe, recently sat down with the Journal-World to talk about po’boys, the local restaurant scene and — maybe — putting salad on the menu. Terrebonne, 805 Vermont St., is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. What’s your favorite item on your restaurant’s menu? I always look forward to Saturday when we serve a roast beef po’boy. It’s made with smoked brisket and it’s a bit on the sloppy side, but delicious. As far as everyday items, the jambalaya is what I usually recommend to firsttimers. It’s a little soupier than most, has great flavor and comes with a couple of hush puppies. How did you get into this profession? I started working at a Little Caesars
Q: A:
Q: A:
‘‘
How do you go Q: about trying to balance the ideas of healthy
Our desserts are sweet, our servings are large and our signature item is typically deepfried and served on a white roll.”
A:
— Greg Renck, owner of Terrebonne Cafe
while at KU, spent time in the kitchens of a few local restaurants — Becerro’s, Molly McGee’s, The Merc Deli, Free State, WheatFields, The Mirth Cafe. Then I decided to take it seriously somewhere along the line and was fortunate enough to find the tiniest restaurant in town when I decided to take the plunge into ownership. What is the one trend in food that you are most excited about right now? I love the amount of variety and uniqueness among local restaurants and food service these days. I feel like
Q:
A:
eating and creating a really flavorful dish? OK, I’ll just be honest: I really don’t try. Our desserts are sweet, our servings are large and our signature item is typically deep-fried and served on a white roll. One thing I’m considering for 2020 is serving an actual salad for the first time, but until then your healthiest option is to save half of your sandwich for later and maybe take a nice walk after lunch. What’s your best advice for someone who is trying to become a better cook? Get a job in a kitchen! You’ll learn and practice knife skills, get comfortable with a lot of tools and equipment and get exposure to new ingredients and flavors. You’ll also enjoy the monotony of making the same thing hundreds of times, the thrill of hot oil splatters and fingertip cuts and the joy of saying “behind you” a few dozen times a day.
Q: A: Kathy Hanks/Journal-World Photo
GREG RENCK IS PICTURED at Terrebonne Cafe. there’s a lot of genuine enthusiasm among cooks, servers and bartenders, and diners who really embrace local businesses. Other than your own restaurant, what restaurant would
Q:
you most like to eat at in Lawrence? There are more wonderful options in town than ever before. I love The Roost and Ladybird for breakfast or lunch. Everything I’ve
A:
ever had at Nagoya has been fantastic and beautiful. I love the Mass St. Fish House when I want to be a little fancy. And the tacos at Crimson & Brews will forever be my favorite bar food.
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Bigg’s owner talks ribs, carrying on a restaurant tradition By Kathy Hanks lll
khanks@ljworld.com Doug Holiday, owner of Bigg’s BBQ, talked with the JournalWorld recently about ribs and carrying on a family tradition of restaurant ownership. Bigg’s BBQ, 2429 Iowa St., is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sundays. your favorite item Q: What’s on your restaurant’s menu? All our ribs are my favorA: ite. We don’t cook them in a sauce. We just use a dry rub and then smoke them. How did you get into the profession? I have always been in the business. I began as a busboy at 13 in Colorado Springs
Q: A:
‘‘
All our ribs are my favorite. We don’t cook them in a sauce. We just use a dry rub and then smoke them.”
— Doug Holiday, owner of Bigg’s BBQ
and have never gotten out of the business. My grandparents Jim and Virginia Large were in the restaurant business. In 1955, they turned a bookstore at 507 W. 14th St. into the Wagon Wheel Cafe, better known as the Wheel. I came to KU to go to school, and in 2000 I opened the Hereford House. Then in 2004, we opened Bigg’s BBQ. Bigg’s is a tribute to my grandfather. Then in 2012, we opened Burgers by Bigg’s. What is one trend in food that you are most excited about right now?
Q:
The trend right now is a A: lot of delivery. But we have been doing delivery since we
opened in 2004. We are ahead of the game. Other than your own restaurant, what restaurant would you most like to eat at in Lawrence? I like to eat at (Morningstar) Pizza or Johnny’s at Sixth and Wakarusa. I always eat local. How do you go about trying to balance the ideas of healthy eating and creating a really flavorful dish? We have some very healthy options such as grilled salmon, steamed vegetables and salads. What’s your best advice for someone who is trying to become a better cook? Have a lot of patience. There is a lot of trial and error with things that work or don’t work.
Q: A: Q: A: Q: A:
Kathy Hanks/Journal-World Photo
DOUG HOLIDAY IS PICTURED at Bigg’s BBQ.
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L awrence J ournal -W orld me mashed potatoes are the key to his breakfast burritos. A layer of the potatoes helps hold the cheese, eggs and other ingredients together. “Everybody thinks it’s goofy until they try it,” he said.
Finds CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1CRA
Thunderbird Burger Lawrence Beer Company West, 4811 Bob Billings Parkway
Quail egg kabobs Ondori, 1008 Massachusetts St.
Lawrence Beer Company opened a new restaurant at 4811 Bob Billings Parkway to complement its large brewpub in East Lawrence. The west side location is smaller and has a menu that is more handheld. I would like to hold this one in one hand and the steering wheel of a ’55-T-Bird in the other, although I’d better get plastic seat covers to prevent the mess. Maybe I’ll just focus on the sandwich. The Thunderbird Burger has a house-ground chicken patty, cherry pepper mayonnaise and mustard slaw, among other ingredients.
Ondori opened as a noodle shop that also planned to serve some Chinese street food in early 2019. The restaurant at 1008 Massachusetts St. has changed its menu a bit since I last talked to the owners. It looks like kabobs are now a big part of the offerings, including quail egg kabobs. I don’t know how it works either, and I’ve got five empty egg cartons to prove that it doesn’t replicate well with chicken eggs.
No fryer needed Twisted Fresh, 4931 W. Sixth St.
Gourmet bean dip Ta Co., 801 Massachusetts St.
Chad Lawhorn/Journal-World Photo
Ta Co. owner Jay Draskovich, of Drasko’s Food Truck and Catering, told me the restaurant’s seven-layer bean dip is a pretty good example of what the restaurant is aiming for — fun and approachable but a bit gourmet. It uses homemade refried beans, plus black olives, guacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo and other ingredients.
Mia Pizza (coming soon) Hy-Vee, 3504 Clinton Parkway You have one less Hy-Vee store to go to in Lawrence, but the remaining location at Kasold and Clinton Parkway is going to have some new restaurant offerings. Look for a Mia Pizza to locate in the store this year. Think thin-crust pizza that is made right in front of you like at a Subway counter. An extensive toppings bar lets you come up with a lot of creations. There also has been talk of a hibachi grill going into the store. I’ll keep an ear open for more on that.
Korean rice bowls The Bap Stop food truck
Bap is Korean for cooked rice, and a new food truck called the Bap Stop aims to serve a lot of it in Lawrence. As the weather warms, Emily Henry plans to have the food truck open regularly in the parking lot of Scholle Chiropractic near 19th and Massachusetts. Rice bowls will be a big part of the menu. In addition
AMONG THE MORE OFFBEAT OFFERINGS AT DOWNTOWN LAWRENCE’S ONDORI are a variety of kabobs, including this one that features quail eggs. to veggie version, look for one featuring rib-eye and another featuring pork belly.
Burritos and fries Pancho’s Mexican Food, 1618 W. 23rd St.
I will have fries with that — I’m talking about with my burrito, of course. It is a thing at Pancho’s Mexican Food, 1618 W. 23rd St. The fastfood Mexican restaurant has french fries all over its menu, but particularly inside its burritos. Look for the Mar y Tierra, which features shrimp, steak, rice, guacamole and fries.
Breakfast pizza Casey’s General Store, 1703 W. Sixth St.
If you have read the column at all this year, you know I’ve done everything but rent a blimp to try to get Casey’s and its breakfast pizza in Lawrence. In August, Casey’s opened its first store in Lawrence at 1703 W. Sixth St. Yes, a second is still planned just west of 31st and Iowa. And, yes, I’ve eaten the breakfast pizza a few times — a layer of scrambled eggs with cheese sauce instead of tomato and toppings like bacon and sausage. Soon, I’ll be doing a good impersonation of a blimp.
Sweet tamales Mama’s Tamale Shop, 602 W. Ninth St.
has all sorts of homemade tamales, tacos and empanadas, but particularly unique are sweet tamales. Instead of red or green sauces, they are topped with items like whipped cream, cherry sweet milk, cinnamon sugar and caramel. The menu includes: sweet pineapple, which includes dark and golden raisins; coconut and almond; cinnamon and pecan; and a chocolate berry variety featuring both cranberries and raspberries.
Down South in Hell Sandwich RPG, 724 Massachusetts St. My cheating ways on board game night have led some to say I’m heading to Hades. Now, it looks like I have a sandwich for the trip, and also a restaurant where I can play board games. Lawrence’s RPG — short for “Restaurant, Pub and Games” — has more than 1,000 board
games at its location at 724 Massachusetts St. It also has the Down South in Hell Sandwich on its menu. It features smoked pulled pork, fried chicken breast, bacon gravy, a fried egg, pickled jalapeño, Texas toast and a shot of hot sauce.
C3PO
Black Stag Brewery, 623 Massachusetts St. No, a chef isn’t serving up the popular Star Wars character on a platter. That would be infeasible. The cook time would be insane. Rather, C3PO is one of the beer offerings at Black Stag Brewery. The name is a play on some of the flavors in the beer — chocolate, cherry and chipotle — while the P stands for the porter style of beer. Co-owner Kathryn Myers told me the brew definitely has a chipotle aftertaste and pairs well with steak. Someone else told me to drink it while wearing a Darth Vader mask, but I think that was someone who just doesn’t like my face.
Thai P.B.B. Dempsey’s Burger Pub, 623 Vermont St. Yes, you’ve stumbled into the acronym portion of the tour. Dempsey’s Burger Pub isn’t new, but does have new owners. Brothers Tom and Pete Sorrentino bought the restaurant at 623 Vermont St. from longtime owner Steve Gaudreau. The brothers gave the restaurant a remodel and refresh but kept the menu pretty much the same. The Thai P.B.B. burger is one of the more popular with Thai peanut sauce, pineapple chutney cilantro, bacon and Sriracha aioli.
Twisted Fresh, 4931 W. Sixth St., takes pride in not having a deep fat fryer anywhere in its restaurant. Restaurant founder and owner Alan Rust said the idea behind Twisted Fresh is just to serve a “healthier version of everything.” Wraps and bowls are a big part of the menu, but so too are fish tacos. The restaurant has a mahi mahi taco that features a Cajun version of the fish, along with pico de gallo and a honey Sriracha aioli. Let’s end with that one because less deep fat fried food sounds like a good resolution for 2020. Well, at least for you. I have professional obligations, you know. Here’s looking forward to a fun food year in 2020. — This is an excerpt from Chad Lawhorn’s Town Talk column, which appears on LJWorld.com.
Mashed potato burritos PoorBoy Burrito Co., 1900 Massachusetts St. You don’t have to convince me to add mashed potatoes to a dish. Nate Keller, owner of PoorBoy Burrito Co., 1900 Massachusetts St., told
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