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Find a full description of our services on our website. 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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Life on the Other Side …Visit Port Townsend, Washington MAY EVENTS May 2nd
May 9th
Art Wave & Chair Auction Farmers’ Market Opens PT Gallery Walk Outdoor Movie #1 (rain cancels); bring a chair! Opening Day –Ahoy PT Welcome boating visitors
Schedule subject to change
May 10th Mother’s Day Out May 11-17 Rhododendron Festival and Parade May 23 Memorial Day Weekend May 25st PT Summer Band May 31st Northwest Maritime Center Opens
JUNE EVENTS June 4th June 6th
June 10 June 13
Taste of Port Townsend Outdoor Movie #2 (rain cancels); bring a chair! Welcome Peninsula Neighbors Wednesday Farmers’ Market Opens Music on the Street
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD
A great time to discover
Contents Getting here, there when bridge is closed................
4
Port Townsend & Jefferson County - opportunities for good food, great music, outdoor fun....................
14
Olympic Peninsula lighthouses have shown the way since 1857 .......
24
Sequim: blue skies and fields of lavender ..........
34
Old Spruce Railroad, waterfalls and more on Olympic trails ................
40
Port Angeles - historic waterfront, plenty of art, food and recreation.......
44
Forks - vampire capital of the world ..................
48
West End: rediscover the outer edge...............
50
– On the cover –
North Beach in Port Townsend is a popular spot for dog owners. To get there, go north on San Juan Avenue in Port Townsend, follow the road to the left (49th Street), turn right on Kuhn Street and follow to end. Leader file photo Port Townsend Publishing Company Scott Wilson, Publisher Copyright 2009 226 Adams Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2900 Website: www.ptleader.com Special Section Editor: Fred Obee Production Lead: Marian Roh Published continuously since October 2, 1889
The grass is always greener on the other side of the hill – or the Hood Canal. But starting May 1, all the grass to the east of the Hood Canal Bridge is harder to get to. The bridge is being pulled apart and reassembled over a four- to six-week period. So now is the perfect time to discover your own backyard. The Olympic Peninsula attracts visitors from all over the world, every year, who are stunned at the variety of natural and handmade wonders that abound. The wild Pacific Ocean coastline. The temperate rain forests. The rushing rivers and endless trails into an instant wilderness. The beaches and spits. The string of lighthouses. The kayaking, boating and fishing. The
friendly and historic communities. The arts. The endless culture. The unforgettable people. The welcome and the smiles. Losing the bridge for a few weeks is not a limitation. It’s sheer opportunity – to explore the wonders here at home. This magazine is devoted to that opportunity. While it outlines how you can get to “the other side” if you need to, it also invites you to explore the wonders close to home. Clallam County residents can have their own getaway through a day or a weekend in Victorian Port Townsend, where restaurants, art galleries and movie theaters beat anything on “the other side.” Jefferson County
Getting here, there when bridge is closed Transit, water shuttles, driving around are options By Patrick J. Sullivan of The Leader Now’s the time to get serious about how you, your household and/or your business will deal with the Hood Canal Bridge closure coming May 1. The floating bridge across Hood Canal is the primary highway on and off the Olympic Peninsula, and it supports about 16,000 vehicles daily.
It closes at 12:01 a.m. on Friday, May 1 for up to six weeks. The result of the east-half replacement project will be a wider, safer bridge. Everything will be back to normal for summer travel. The Washington State Department of Transportation will have a free water shuttle between South Point
Info hotline
The toll-free number to call with questions regarding the Hood Canal Bridge closure – including the water shuttle, medical bus and special Port Townsend-Edmonds starlight ferry – is 877-595-4222.
4 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
residents can check out both the shops and the natural wonders that await on the western part of the Olympic Peninsula. Both counties host festivals and special events well worth the short trip. For example Port Townsend features its 74th annual Rhododendron Festival the weekend of May 13-17. It’s when the high school marching bands, the floats with gracious queens and local politicians take center stage. Never been? Now’s the time to check it out. A month or six weeks of bridge closure is barely enough time to take it all in. But now’s your chance. It’s time to “Discover Your Own Backyard.” – Scott Wilson, Publisher
(Jefferson County) and Lofall (Kitsap County), with secure park-and-ride lots at Shine Pit and Port Gamble. Transit organizations are mobilized to meet the needs of daily commuters and those making essential trips for medical or work-related needs. The good news: During the bridge closure, it’s possible to use public transit to get from Port Townsend to Seattle and back for only the cost of a one-way, walk-on ferry fare westbound to Bainbridge. The bad news: The free transit and water-shuttle service set up for the bridge closure is aimed at serving daily commuters and people with urgent medical appointments. It is not going to be convenient for people on Continued on page 6 •
Where’s that confounded bridge?
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD
Getting there... • Continued from page miles between the Shine Pit vacation, for shoppers and for Park-and-Ride, just south of business deliveries. State Route 104, and the South Point water-shuttle dock. Both park-and-ride lots and both Q: How does the water water shuttle docks will be shuttle system work? ADA-compliant. A: The 149-passenger waThere will be a tent, porter-shuttle service starts daily table toilets and trash receptawith a 4:30 a.m. departure cles at water-shuttle landings from South Point and conand the park-and-rides. tinues every half hour, with a final Lofall departure at 10 Q: Can I go directly to a p.m. and final South Point departure at 10:30 p.m. Three water shuttle terminal? boats may be used during the A: No. For safety reasons, peak commuter time. no bicycles or private vehicles At Lofall, transportaof any kind are allowed direct tion is provided to the Port access to the water-shuttle Gamble Park-and-Ride (on docks. the waterfront), to Kingston, Law enforcement personnel Bainbridge Island via Poulsbo, will be on hand to enforce the and the transfer station at safety rules. Kitsap Mall in Silverdale, Plan ahead, be patient, and where passengers can pay a use a park-and-ride. Buses fare to continue to Bremerton, travel between the park-andif desired. ride and the South Point dock Jefferson Transit will at regular intervals; the trip transport passengers five takes 20 minutes.
There are lots of options for public transportation on the Olympic Peninsula during the bridge closure, but it will pay for people to find out what’s available ahead of time. Leader file photo
Q: What about Jefferson Transit’s direct route to South Point? A: Transit-dependent riders are the main focus of Jefferson Transit’s modified No. 7 Poulsbo route, which
goes from Port Townsend through Port Hadlock and Port Ludlow directly to the South Point dock. Consult the Jefferson Transit schedule posted at www.JeffConnections.com. Continued on page •
Getting ready for the SR 104 Hood Canal Bridge closure What you can do to help r 1MBO BIFBE BOE HFU SFBEZ OPX r 3FTDIFEVMF ZPVS USJQT JG QPTTJCMF r "MMPX FYUSB UJNF GPS ZPVS USJQ r 1BZ BUUFOUJPO UP XIBU T IBQQFOJOH JO GSPOU PG ZPV while driving r 6TF TMPX WFIJDMF UVSOPVUT JG ZPV SF IPMEJOH VQ USBGĂ D r "WPJE CMPDLJOH ESJWFXBZT BOE TJEF TUSFFUT JG USBGĂ D EPFT get congested r #F QBUJFOU m XF SF BMM JO UIJT UPHFUIFS
Conclusion of the work and a look to the future The new Hood Canal Bridge will feature a wider roadway and state-of-the-art draw span components, but what does that mean for you?
r 3FEVDFE $POHFTUJPO m 8JEFS MBOFT BOE TBGFUZ TIPVMEFST will help keep the 15,000-20,000 vehicles that cross the bridge daily moving. r 3FMJBCMF 4ZTUFNT m 6QHSBEFE NFDIBOJDBM FMFDUSJDBM and hydraulic systems will translate into more reliable bridge openings. r 'VUVSF m 4USBUFHJD QMBOOJOH BOE PO UIF )PPE $BOBM Bridge design means that WSDOT will be able to increase capacity by two lanes without having to close the bridge. The new bridge is expected to last 75 years. Getting ready now will help the closure go well. Building a better bridge for the community is the result of all this hard work. Thank you for your patience.
r *NQSPWFE 4BGFUZ m 8JEFS TIPVMEFST XJMM DSFBUF NPSF SPPN for both motorists and bicyclists, improving safety for both as they cross the bridge.
www.HoodCanalBridge.com
2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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914 Water Street Port Townsend Ph 360-385-3630 Fx 360-385-3788 www.williams-gallery.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD
2
3
4
Port 5 Townsend 6
South Point Lofall
1
SeaTac
Lighthouse tour, page 2 1. Destruction Island 2. Cape Flattery 3. Ediz Hook 4. New Dungeness 5. Point Wilson 6. Marrowstone Point
Terrain Map courtesy of the Washington State Department of Ecology
Getting there... • Continued from page 6
Q: Is there a “medical bus” for patients?
A: Yes. Olympic Bus Lines takes patients from Port Angeles, Sequim and Port Townsend to Seattle-area hospitals via the Port Townsend-Keystone and Clinton-Mukilteo ferries. Additional bus service picks patients up at the Lofall Dock for transport to Kitsap County. This program is intended for people with scheduled, life-sustaining treatments such
as kidney dialysis or cancer treatments, not regular medical check-up appointments. Reservations are required. The service is fare-free, and the WSDOT reservation phone number is 877-595-4222. Passengers with low mobility are recommended to travel with a companion or caregiver to assist them during the trip.
Q: What about getting bicycles on a shuttle? A: In Jefferson County,
Port Townsend to Bellingham ........................... 70 mi. Brinnon ................................. 34 mi. Forks ................................... 102 mi. Kalaloch .............................. 137 mi. Mt. Vernon ............................ 48 mi. Port Angeles.......................... 46 mi. Olympia ................................ 92 mi. Sequim.................................. 35 mi. Regular ferry service Special ferry May 1 bicyclists must wait at the Gateway Visitor Center near the intersection of SR 104 and
8 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Not having the Hood Canal Bridge for a few weeks starting May 1 means it will take a little effort and planning to get on and off the Olympic Peninsula. But the trip here is always worthwhile.
SR 19 for bus pickup and transportation to the South Point dock. No bicyclists are allowed to ride directly to the Shine Pit Park-and-Ride or to the South Point dock. Most Jefferson Transit buses can carry two or three bikes, and policy allows two bikes inside the bus if Continued on page 10 •
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Where passion for home and garden meets creativity & design.
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 9
Getting there... • Continued from page
passenger load allows. Each water shuttle has room for five bikes, so larger groups of riders cannot expect to make the same boat.
medical transportation, not to accommodate late-night trips back from Seattle events.
Q: I need to get to SeaTac Airport, but how?
A: Public transit connections via the water shuttle can get you to the airport. But it should be with “carry on” luggage only – no large A: Service animals and suitcases. Soft-sided bags small animals in approved work best when riding a bus pet carriers (sorry, but your or ferry, where aisles must puppy can’t travel aboard in your purse or in your lap) are be kept clear. People can also hire a taxi allowed on the water shuttle, ($220 one way from Port the transit buses and the Townsend) or charter air serpark-and-ride shuttle buses. All other pets are prohibited. vice from Jefferson County International Airport directly People need to be able to to Sea-Tac ($95 each way). handle their pet carriers Kenmore Air offers seawithout assistance because there are no personnel desig- plane connections from Port nated to help passengers load Hadlock and Port Ludlow to Lake Union ($79 each way). and unload. Olympic Bus Lines of Port Angeles goes to Sea-Tac ($49 Q: What luggage can I one way).
Q: Can I take my pet on the bus and/or the water shuttle?
take on the buses and/or the water shuttle?
A: Luggage/baggage will be restricted to one small under-seat bag and another small bag that can be held on a lap. There is not sufficient room on buses or water shuttles for larger items, and there are no personnel designated to help passengers load or unload larger baggage.
Q: When do I need to get back to Lofall make the last boat?
A: If you are using public transit, you will need to depart Seattle no later than the 8:10 p.m. ferry to Bainbridge to make the transit connections to be on the 10 p.m. boat from Lofall to South Point. WSDOT is providing the water shuttle primarily for commuters and essential
Q: What about “driving around” to Sea-Tac or even Seattle?
A: It currently takes about two hours to drive across the Hood Canal Bridge from Port Townsend to Sea-Tac. WSDOT estimates that with the bridge closed, for a Port Townsend resident to get to Seattle it will take two hours, 37 minutes using the water shuttle, and three hours driving around using U.S. Highway 101 to Interstate 5 at Olympia. Keep in mind that Highway 101 along Hood Canal is a slow, winding road with many speedlimit restrictions. About 3,000 vehicles use this route daily – expect that to at least double during the bridge closure. There will be additional law enforcement patrols along 101.
A number of public transit organizations are coordinating schedules to help people get around during the Hood Canal Bridge closure. Leader file photo
starting April 20. An Issaquah-class ferry can carry six 82-foot-long tractor-trailers with room for A: The regular vehicle fer- 80 other vehicles (by reserry between Port Townsend vation) and 1,200 passengers. and Keystone is in service. In Priority goes to commercial addition, during the bridge vehicles. Fares are based on closure there will be one the peak-season, cross-sound evening round-trip “freight rates matching the Kingstonferry” from Port Townsend Edmonds rates. to Edmonds on five days each week: Sundays through (At our publication Thursdays. deadline, there is still It departs Edmonds at discussion about a possible 8:40 p.m. and departs Port passenger ferry connecting Townsend at 10:30 p.m. Port Townsend, Kingston Crossing time is estimated to and Seattle. Check www. be one hour and 45 minutes. JeffConnections.com or www. Reservations are available ptleader.com for updates.)
Q: What about a Port Townsend-Edmonds vehicle ferry?
10 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Getting ready for the SR 104 Hood Canal Bridge closure
How to get around during the SR 104 Hood Canal Bridge closure
When the clock strikes midnight on April 30 and May 1 begins, if you live or work on the Olympic Peninsula you will see more than the dawning of a new day – you’ll be seeing the start of something that will change your life for a few weeks. At 12:01 a.m. May 1, 2009 the Hood Canal Bridge will close, affecting everything from business deliveries and commuters’ schedules to medical appointments and travel to school events. The six-week closure, which will allow WSDOT to replace the bridge’s aging east half and east and west trusses, will bring challenges. But, as with every challenge, there is opportunity. Whether it’s rediscovering the beauty that surrounds you on the Olympic Peninsula, visiting that corner store you’ve always been meaning to duck into or simply to trying out transit or carpooling, the closure will provide you the chance – and more importantly the incentive – to reconnect with your community.
Transportation options The May-June the closure will be challenging, but the Olympic Peninsula is still open for business. We encourage you to get ready now by reviewing your transportation options to determine your best route. “Get around� options include: r " GBSF GSFF passenger-only water shuttle between Jefferson and Kitsap counties with fare-free transit connections, and nearby park and rides r " 4VOEBZ UISPVHI 5IVSTEBZ SFTFSWBUJPO CBTFE car ferry between Port Townsend and Edmonds to assist freight haulers and drivers r " GSFF SFTFSWBUJPO CBTFE medical bus service that will transport people to and from the Olympic Peninsula, Kitsap County and Seattle r Driving around on US 101 and SR 3, with signage at key locations r Ridesharing r 5SBWFMJOH WJB private boats, charter buses and local airline flights r 5FMFXPSLJOH
www.HoodCanalBridge.com
1-877-595-4222
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 11
Getting ready for the SR 104 Hood Canal Bridge closure How to use the Transportation Options Map Helping you get around on alternate routes is a priority for WSDOT. WSDOT is providing travelers a number of options when the bridge closes May 1.
The water shuttle will run between 4 a.m. and 11 p.m. The park and ride lots will be open from 3 a.m. until midnight. The lots are fenced, lighted and will have security guards on hand 24/7. Transit schedules can be found at www.HoodCanalBridge.com
This map includes route information on the water shuttle and transit connections on the Kitsap and Olympic peninsulas, WSF runs and medical buses. You can also use an interactive map at www. HoodCanalBridge.com to find the exact times and route options for your trip or call 1-877-595-4222 to get trip planning assistance from one of our live operators. Traffic along the alternate routes will increase. Highway improvements made during the past few years, plus a remotely-controlled signal at SR 3/SR 16 in Gorst, on-site flaggers at the US 101/SR 16 intersection in Hoodsport, and WSDOT maintenance and WSP patrols, will help keep traffic moving.
www.HoodCanalBridge.com
12 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
1-877-595-4222
Getting ready for the SR 104 Hood Canal Bridge closure What is the fastest, most reliable route?
Getting you to your doctor
The water shuttle will save you both time and money by providing direct, fare-free access across the Hood Canal. The charts below show estimated travel times with and without the water shuttle.
Fixed route, reservation-only medical buses will transport individuals who receive ongoing medical treatment and do not require constant monitoring or care from Lofall to identified medical destinations in Bremerton, Poulsbo and Silverdale, and from Port Townsend to Keystone and then to Seattle hospitals.
Estimated drive times/mileage with water shuttle Poulsbo/ Kingston
Bremerton/ Pt Orchard
Seattle (via Bainbridge ferry)
Sequim/ Pt. Angeles
1 h 50m 46 miles
2 h 10m 65 miles
2 h 53m 67 miles
Port Townsend
1 h 34m 31 miles
1 h 54m 50 miles
2 h 37m 52 miles
Port Ludlow
1 h 13m 16 miles
1 h 33m 35 miles
2 h 16m 37 miles
Estimated drive times/mileage without water shuttle Poulsbo/ Kingston
Bremerton/ Pt Orchard
Seattle (via US 101 & I-5
Sequim/ Pt. Angeles
3 h 7m 142 miles
2 h 26m 108 miles
3 h 17m 168 miles
Port Townsend
2 h 53m 132 miles
2 h 12m 97 miles
3 h 4m 158 miles
Port Ludlow
2 h 48m 130 miles
2 h 21m 102 miles
2 h 59m 156 miles
Call 1-877-595-4222 to reserve your spot on the Port Angeles/Sequim/Port Townsend/Seattle route or the Lofall/ Kitsap County route. Medical facilities throughout Kitsap County will be served in communities including: r 1PVMTCP r #BJOCSJEHF *TMBOE r 4JMWFSEBMF r #SFNFSUPO Seattle area hospitals served by the medical bus include: r 4XFEJTI .FEJDBM $FOUFS r 7JSHJOJB .BTPO .FEJDBM $FOUFS r 6OJWFSTJUZ PG 8BTIJOHUPO .FEJDBM $FOUFS r )BSCPSWJFX .FEJDBM $FOUFS r 7FUFSBOT "GGBJST )PTQJUBM r $IJMESFO T )PTQJUBM BOE 3FHJPOBM .FEJDBM $FOUFS
Giving freight haulers some extra pull How do I stay in the know? Know before you go by checking‌ 1) www.HoodCanalBridge.com 2) www.HoodCanal.blogspot.com 3) 1-877-595-4222 – includes live operators who will provide trip planning assistance 4) Interactive on-line map 5) “Crossing Hood Canalâ€? on-line video 6) E-mail updates 7) Traffic cameras Stay informed on the road r $BMM r $BMM r 5VOF JOUP )JHIXBZ "EWJTPSZ 3BEJPT r (FU UFYU NFTTBHF VQEBUFT r 7JFX TJHOT BMPOH UIF IJHIXBZ
An estimated 1,700 trucks cross the State Route 104 Hood Canal Bridge daily, representing a large portion of the commercial traffic traveling to and from the Olympic Peninsula. Travel options during the closure include: 1) Driving around via US 101 2) Catching the Port Townsend to Keystone ferry 3) Catching the Port Townsend to Edmonds twilight ferry which includes: r 0OF SPVOE USJQ TBJMJOH QFS FWFOJOH 4VOEBZ UISPVHI Thursday with a crossing time of approximately one hour and 45 minutes. r 7FTTFM EFQBSUT &ENPOET Q N r 7FTTFM EFQBSUT 1PSU 5PXOTFOE Q N Reservations will be taken for travel on this route, with priority given to commercial vehicles. Travelers can begin making reservations in mid-April by calling 1-877-595-4222. Additional information on fares and vessel capacity is available at www.HoodCanalBridge.com. Check your route before you go To learn more about everything from freight hauling restrictions, preferred travel times and how to check your route before you go visit the Trucking Information page at www.HoodCanalBridge.com.
www.HoodCanalBridge.com
1-877-595-4222
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 13
Port Townsend & Jefferson County
Opportunities abound for good food, great music, outdoor fun By Melanie Lockhart of The Leader
mountains, historic buildings and various trails and bluffs, it’s a wonderful area Whoever says there is for photographers – amateur nothing to do in Jefferson and professional – to capture County is seriously mistaken. beauty on camera. Where else can you find While you’re in the area, the breathtaking beauty of stop at any of the local parks, the mountains and beaches, such as H.J. Carroll in Chibackdoor trails for hiking macum and Chetzemoka in and biking, hidden outlets for Port Townsend, for a picnic fishing, a spectacular worklunch. ing waterfront in multiple towns, Victorian-style homes, Parks and camping amazing food around every This is the perfect area corner, quaint little shops for taking advantage of the both uptown and downtown, outdoors. and hundreds of events Port Townsend and Jefthroughout the year? ferson County are home to a Now that the sun is shinnumber of outstanding camping more often and we’re ground facilities, with most feeling glimmers of warmth, offering other recreational Port Townsend and Jefferson activities as well. With MeCounty are springing into the morial Day weekend – one of liveliest part of the year, with the biggest camping weekplenty of places to go, things ends of the year – occurto see and activities to do. ring during the Hood Canal And with landmarks such Bridge closure, why not stay as Manresa Castle and the on the Olympic Peninsula for Bell Tower, as well as plenty a change? Holiday weekends of gorgeous views of water, aren’t required, of course.
Jefferson County has miles of beaches, including this strip that runs from Point Hudson past Chetzemoka Park to the Point Wilson Lighthouse. Photo by Melanie Lockhart
If camping isn’t your style, visit any of the parks during a day trip. There’s the popular Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, with views of Mount Baker to the northeast and the San Juan Islands to the northwest. North Beach is a wonderful place to walk, check out the colorful seashells and listen to the waves crash ashore. It’s also
one of the most beautiful places to observe a sunset. Don’t forget your flashlight, especially for the kids. The fort’s bunkers are not only a piece of history but also a semi-scary place for exploring within their concrete walls. There is also the Port Townsend Marine Science Center, with a variety of
Continued on page 16 •
At Fort Flagler, kite flying is a common sport. The location also lends itself to picnics and water activities. Photo by Melanie Lockhart
14 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Restaurant Fine Dining with Northwest Cuisine
Isle of Marrowstone Country Club carrys on the tradition of “Never a good walk spoiled!”
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• Waterfront Dining, Northwest Cuisine • Spectacular Views of Townsend Bay • State of the Art Meeting & Conference Facilities • A World Class, Three Story Art Gallery • Open Daily, Serving Lunch and Dinner • Reservations Recommended New Guestrooms & Suites p Nemo’s Restaurant p The Art Mine Gallery p Vitality Day Spa p 160-Slip Marina 310 Hadlock Bay Road, Port Hadlock, Washington 360.385.7030 www.innatporthadlock.com • www.theartmine.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 15
Port Townsend & Jefferson County
Museums, parks abound... • Continued from page 14
aquatic life, and Point Wilson Lighthouse on the tip of the Quimper Peninsula. There are plenty of trails – none too difficult – available for day hikes or walking the dog. You can also hike to the upper bunkers and gain a panoramic view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Admiralty Inlet. The Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum offers a historical perspective on the days when Fort Worden guarded the nautical entrance into Puget Sound. There are 80 campsites for RV and tents – 50 near the beach and 30 in the forest – with quick access to many trails. Call 360-344-4431 for reservations. Fort Flagler State Park, located eight miles northeast of Port Hadlock on the northern tip of Marrowstone
Island, is another prime camping and recreation spot. There is a five-mile hiking and biking trail as well as boat ramps and docks for water activities. During the correct seasons and with the right licenses, saltwater fishing, crabbing and clamming are available. It’s a popular site for birdwatchers as well. There are 116 campsites – 20 are open through April and all sites open May 1. Tent camping is permitted. Among other campgrounds in the area are Old Fort Townsend State Park (Port Townsend), Point Hudson (Port Townsend, no tents), Jefferson County Fairgrounds (Port Townsend), Dosewallips State Park (Hood Canal), Lower and Upper Oak Bay (Port Hadlock), Lake Leland (Quilcene), Chimacum (behind the Tri-
Crabbing season doesn’t open until June, but there are always plenty of pots in the water once it’s permitted. Photo by Melanie Lockhart
Area Community Center) and Quilcene (behind the Quilcene Community Center). Visit www.parks.wa.gov for more information on state parks. Find other Jefferson County park and campground listings at www. countyrec.com.
Fine dining
Good food is not lacking in Jefferson County. The bigger question is, where to start? There are abundant opportunities for Asian cuisine: Joy Luck Chinese food It’s easy to bike along the roadway around the campsites at Fort Flagler in both Port Hadlock (81 State Park. You can multi-task with ice cream from the gift shop as well. Chimacum Road) and Port Photo by Melanie Lockhart Townsend (630 Water St.), Thai food at Khu Larb Thai 16 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
(225 Adams St., PT), Japanese at Ichikawa (1208 Water St., PT) and Asian noodles at Hanazono (225 Taylor St., PT), to name just a few. Jefferson County is also home to some of the best pizza, including Waterfront Pizza in PT (951 Water St.), Ferino’s Pizzeria in Port Hadlock (846 Nesses Corner Road), Pizza Factory in PT (1102 Water St.) and Cucina Pizza in Port Ludlow (52 Village Way). Great family restaurants include the Chimacum Café (9253 Rhody Drive), Highway Twenty Roadhouse in PT (2152 Sims Way) and the Bayview in PT (1539 Water St.). Continued on page 18 •
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 17
Port Townsend & Jefferson County
Fine dining... • Continued from page 16
For some of the besthidden dining in the area, tr y Ajax Café in Por t Hadlock (21 N. Water St.), Fins Coastal Cuisine in PT (upstairs at 1019 Water St.), Olympic Timber House Restaurant in Quilcene (295534 Highway 101), Geoduck Tavern in Brinnon (307103 Hwy. 101) and Harbormaster Restaurant in Por t Ludlow (55 Heron Road). Let’s not forget the pubs: Sirens in PT (upstairs at 823 Water St.), Whistling Oyster Bar in Quilcene (294903 Hwy. 101), Por t Townsend Brewing Co. (330 C 10th St.), Water Street Brewing and Ale House (639 Water St., PT),
Choices for your dining pleasure run the gamut, from fine dining venues to a corn dog and curly fries at festivals and fairs. Leader file photo
Hilltop Tavern (2510 Sims Way, PT) and Valley Tavern in Por t Hadlock (on Chimacum Road across from QFC). It’s impossible to list all the places to eat and drink.
Pick up a Por t Townsend and East Jef ferson County Menu Guide at the PT Visitor Center – or the local phone book – for proof of our abundance of fine dining experiences.
Rhody Festival
One of Port Townsend’s best-known events of the year is the Rhododendron Festival. This year marks 74 years, and as always, there is Continued on page 20 •
Port Townsend’s Rhododendron Festival is a highlight of the spring, and features a Grand Parade and other events, like this popular bed race. This year the festival runs from May 11 to 17. Photo by Barney Burke 18 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Flights to Seattle/SeaTac
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95
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per person each way
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MEET/BEAT prices at Costco, Central Market, Safeway, QFC, etc.
Port Townsend’s “Air Taxi” Service
Personalized Service 7 Days a Week 7 am-7 pm Call Steve at 360-531-1727
(See store for details and ordering.)
Wine & Bubblies • Beer & Ale 1010 Water Street • Port Townsend Open 7 Days a Week 360/385-7673 1-888-MAX-WINE www.PTwineSeller.com
The Goodwin Aviation Co. at Jefferson County International Airport
THE KITCHEN & MORE STORE
Bauer Pottery: Simple yet beautiful stoneware from the past.
THE Kitsch*n Glam Life Happens, Look Fabulous
Ahava Travel Essentials: Just the right size!
GREEN EYESHADE
720 Water Street, Port Townsend Open 9:30-6 Saturday-Thursday • 9:30-8 Fridays 360-385-3838 • Toll Free 888-785-3838 • www.thegreeneyeshade.com
•
Victorian Unique Underground Cafe & Candy Shop 360-385-6959
Tools, books, workshops & gifts to inspire your inner writer.
The Writers’ Workshoppe
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Great sh one locatioops n!
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WATER ST. PORT TOWNSEND
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Gallery & Bead Studio
360 385-6131 • open daily • www.wynwoods.com
Diva Yarn
Fine Fibers • Knitting • Crocheting • Spinning • Books 360
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Embellishments
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clothing, accessories & gifts
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Boma is Seattle-based and each piece of jewelry is guaranteed for life
Historic James & Hastings Building 1889
Open Daily, In the Lobby
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 19
Port Townsend & Jefferson County
county events April 10-May 2 • “Birnham Woods” at Key City Public Theatre in Port Townsend, keycitypublictheatre.org. April 11 • Ninth Annual Children’s Festival of Art at Fort Worden State Park, northwindarts.org. April 11-12 • Playwrighting Workshops in Port Townsend, keycitypublictheatre.org. April 18 • 16th Annual Maritime Swap Meet at Point Hudson, www.woodenboat.org. April 23-26 • Back Porch Blues Summit sponsored by Centrum at Fort Worden State Park, www.centrum.org/blues. April 24-26 • Port Townsend Bead Market in downtown Port Townsend, www.zizbead.com/porttownsend.htm.
Continued on page 22 •
Neil Harrington checks out the produce at the Port Townsend Farmers Market. Photo by Allison Arthur
Festivals fill streets... • Continued from page 18
plenty to do during the third week in May. On May 14, the much-anticipated carnival opens. It’s most popular with the kids, but all ages are welcome. Three days of parades begin with the Pet Parade at 4:30 p.m. Thursday, May 14. It’s a time for furry loved ones to dress up their humans and glam up themselves so they can strut their stuff down Lawrence Street. The parade starts at Van Buren and Lawrence. The Kiddies Parade – probably the cutest of all parades – starts in the same place at 3:30 p.m. Friday, May 15. Kids of all ages and
in all categories compete for ribbons and spots in Saturday’s Grand Parade. The Grand Parade begins at 1 p.m. uptown on Lawrence Street, turns down Monroe Street and loops downtown to Water Street. “Wild Rhodies” is the theme for this year’s Rhody Fest.
Farmers market
Beginning May 2, the Port Townsend Farmers Market is back in business, and for three months, it’s semiweekly. This year 60 vendors will gather every Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Beginning June 10, a second market is staged every
Wednesday from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. You can find anything from vegetables and plants to aprons and doll clothes. It’s Port Townsend’s only free fair where you can enjoy local produce and local handmade crafts every single week. New this year, every other Saturday market features a unique recipe, such as dishes made with shellfish, goat cheese, Asian greens or raspberries. Learn how to cook the food, taste some samples, and take home the recipes. The market is located on Tyler Street between Lawrence and Polk, with the community center and its lawn and playground right next door. This year credit cards are accepted for the first time; acceptance of food stamps and
20 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Continued on page 22 •
April 25 • Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at Chimacum High School Auditorium, www.porttownsendorcheatra.org. April 25-26 • Ninth Annual JeffCo EXPO at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in PT, www.jeffcofairgrounds.com/expo.htm. April 26 • 17th Annual Rhody Bike Tour sponsored by Port Townsend Bicycle Association, www.ptbikes.org. May 2 • Port Townsend Farmers Market opening day in Uptown Port Townsend, continuing each Saturday through mid-November, www.ptfarmersmarket.org. May 2 • Gallery Walk in downtown Port Townsend. May 2 • PT Shorts: “Letters of the Century” read at City Hall Council Chambers, keycitypublictheatre.org. May 2-3 • JeffCo HomeShow at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, sponsored by Jefferson County Home Builders Association, www.jeffcohomeshow.com. May 7 • Comedy Night at Key City Public Theatre in Port Townsend, keycitypublictheatre.org May 9 • Opening Day on Port Townsend Bay, sail-by celebration of boating season, www.woodenboat.org.
Continued on page 22 •
Flower Shop Floral Designs & Unique Gifts – We Deliver –
Since 1947
Port Townsend’s BIG SCREEN Movie Theatre
THE
1031 Lawrence St., Uptown
360-385-5289
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1120 Lawrence Street Port Townsend (360) 385-3883 www.porttownsendmovies.com Family owned since 1984
Cafe, Bistro & Patisserie
BEST BREAKFAST LUNCH & BRUNCH IN PT! eat like a locavore! 1029 Lawrence St., Uptown • 385-4886 thanks for 6 years of local support!
LANZA’S RISTORANTE
1020 Lawrence St.
Tues-Sat at 5 pm
(360)379-1900
Offering the highest quality Vitamins • Herbs • Homeopathics Skincare Products Locally Made Lotions & Soaps
940 Lawrence St.
385-3290 • Open Daily • 1002 Lawrence St.
360-385-0500
www.uptownnutrition.com
You haven,t experienced Port Townsend Lawrence & until you,ve been UPTOWN. Tyler Streets NEW TO TOWN?!
go where the locals go!
1016 Lawrence St. 360-385-1530
Cost-effective business solutions. The original sustainable NW shop with expertise and service you value. Mon.-Fri. 8:30-5:30 631 Tyler St.
Design • Print • Copy • Mailing
360-385-1256
Kimberly’s Hair and Nails 379-5150 607B Tyler Street www.kimberlyshair.com
Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery
Bread • Pastry • Chocolate Opening soon at 5th & Washington in Sequim! Open 7 Days 8 am-4 p.m. • 617 Tyler Street • 360.385.1199
Kelly Barlow, LMP
Massage Face & Body Treatments 360.385.0393 www.labelladayspa.net
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 21
Port Townsend & Jefferson County
Markets are open...
• Continued from page 20 May 9-10 • Rhododendron Arts and Crafts Fair in downtown PT, sponsored by PT Arts Guild, 360-379-3813.
• Continued from page 20
May 10 • Sea Dogs’ Regatta, www. woodenboat.org.
WIC checks began last year. Afterward, don’t forget to browse the shops uptown. For more information, visit ptfarmersmarket.org. Our county offers other market opportunities as well. The Port Ludlow Friday Market begins May 8 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the Port Ludlow Village Center and continues each Friday through September. On Sundays from May 3 through October, the Chimacum Farmers’ Market draws local vendors to the Chimacum Grange on Rhody Drive from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Visit www.chimacum.org.
May 11-17 • 74th Annual Rhododendron Festival, “Wild Rhodies,” features Pet Parade, Bed Races, Kiddies Parade, Fish Fry, Grand Parade, Flower Show and Rhody Run, www.rhodyfestival.org. May 23-24 • Brinnon ShrimpFest in downtown Brinnon celebrates Hood Canal seafood, sponsored by Emerald Towns Alliance, www.emeraldtowns. org/shrimpfest.htm. May 2 • Gallery Walk in downtown Port Townsend. June 6 • PT Shorts at Pope Marine Park Building, keycitypublictheatre.org. June 6-7 • 26th Classic Mariners’ Regatta, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, www.woodenboat.org.
On the water
Cue “duh” moment – our county is literally surrounded by water, making available plenty of maritime activities. There are regattas scheduled from May through September, and sailing races on Port Townsend Bay multiple times a week. You can watch from the waterfront, or if you know a skipper or can bribe one, you can participate. Fishing, crabbing and clamming opportunities abound. You can water-ski, tube, wakeboard or parasail at multiple locations, and it’s not hard to find a kayak rental. Better yet, take a deep breath and jump in (where permitted). Just make sure you have a way to warm up afterward. After all, it’s not Hawaii, though it’s still pretty close to the Pacific Ocean, right?
county events
June 10 • Wednesday Farmers Market opening day in Uptown Port Townsend, continuing each Wednesday into September, www.ptfarmersmarket. org. June 20 • Secret Garden Tour sponsored by Jefferson County Master Gardeners, http://mg.jefferson.wsu.edu. June 26 • Free Fridays at the Fort opening day, continuing each Friday through August at Fort Worden Commons, www.trumba.com/calendars/centrum. June 26-27 • Borromeo String Quartet sponsored by Centrum at Fort Worden State Park, www.trumba.com/calendars/centrum. June 27-28 • 26th Olympic Music Festival opening weekend, continuing each weekend through Labor Day at the Dairy Barn near Quilcene, www.olympicmusicfestival.org.
Sometimes it’s just in the air. Couples young and old can share moments of romance along the many beaches – or just about anywhere. Photo by Allison Arthur
22 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
June 28-July 5 • Festival of American Fiddle Tunes, sponsored by Centrum at Fort Worden State Park, www.centrum.org/fiddle.
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 23
Discover: Lighthouse Tour
Olympic Peninsula lighthouses have shown the way since 1857 Lighthouse tour goes from Destruction Island to Marrowstone Point By Scott Wilson of The Leader
Marrowstone Island’s Marrowstone Point Lighthouse - 1912
The first lighthouse, a lens on a lantern pole, was built in 1888. A fog bell and a simple home were added in 1896. In 1902 the light was placed on a
concrete foundation. The construction of what is now Fort Flagler took place shortly after the first keeper took up residence at the lighthouse. The fort was completed in 1907. In 1912 the existing building was constructed. In 1918 a new foghorn was established on a square cement buildPoint Wilson’s 1914 lighthouse is eight-sided to resist stiff winds. Its location on Point Wilson is in peril due to strong currents and high tides that are washing away the sands. Photo by Barney Burke
ing and the light was later mounted on its top, where it remains today. The light was automated in 1962. The station remains intact. The keeper’s building houses the Marrowstone Marine Field Station. It is located in Fort Flagler State Park, on Marrowstone Island. Marrowstone was
See lighthouse locations on the Olympic Peninsula map, page 8.
Marrowstone Point’s 1912 lighthouse replaced a lens on a lantern pole built in 1888. The station is now the home of the Marrowstone Marine Field Station. Photo by Scott Wilson
1. Destruction Island 2. Cape Flattery 3. Ediz Hook 4. New Dungeness 5. Point Wilson 6. Marrowstone Point
the name that Capt. George Vancouver brought to the area in 1792. To find it: Take State Route 19 to Nesses Corner Road (Port Hadlock); drive through Port Hadlock and through the four-way stop. Take a left on State Route 116 (Flagler Road); cross to Marrowstone Island, then left to Fort Flagler. The lighthouse is at the northernmost tip of the fort.
Port Townsend’s Point Wilson Lighthouse - 1914
The waters off Point Wilson are often treacherous as currents and tides collide, and winds are often stiff. The first warning signal
Continued on page 28 •
24 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
1 PACIFIC TRADITIONS
2 ANCESTRAL SPIRITS GALLERY
DAILY 10-6 • 637 WATER ST. 360-385-4770
DAILY • 701 WATER ST. 360-385-0078
Local & nationally recognized native artists of distinction.
“An exquisite art gallery” – National Geographic Traveler
www.PacificTraditions.com
www.ancestralspirits.com
TOWNSEND 3 PORT 4 EARTHENWORKS GALLERY
DAILY • 715 WATER ST. 360-379-8110
F-M 11-5:30 • 702 WATER ST. 360-385-0328
Fine art and jewelry from the hearts, hands and studios of local artists.
Fine American Arts and Crafts for the discriminating collector
www.porttownsendgallery.com
www.earthenworksgallery.com
GROVER GEMS 5 FOREST 6 MAX GALLERY GALLERY
DAILY 9:30-6 • 807 WASHINGTON ST. 360-379-1713
F-M 11-6 • 820 WATER ST. (UPSTAIRS) 360-385-3037
Highly figured Northwest woods, handcrafted by local artists.
Colorful paintings, prints, children’s books, puzzles & games.
www.forestgems.com
www.maxgrover.com
7 VAGABOND ARTS
ON 8 ARTISANS TAYLOR
DAILY 11-7ISH • 234 TAYLOR ST. 360-385-9545
DAILY 10:30-6 • 236 TAYLOR ST. 360-379-1029
An Eclectic Collective: Hand-made, hand-dyed velvets and silks, original jewelry, art glass & handwovens.
Exhibitions of contemporary art around a core of fine jewelry.
9 WILLIAM’S GALLERY
10 WYNWOODS GALLERY &
For the naturally sophisticated, a gallery of fine arts and crafts.
DAILY 10-7 940 WATER ST. 360-385-6131 Fine contemporary handcrafted jewelry, beads & treasures. www.wynwoods.com
DAILY • 914 WATER ST. 360-385-3630
www.williams-gallery.com
11 GALLERY 9 DAILY 10-6 • 1012 WATER ST. 360-379-8881 Olympic Peninsula cooperative of artists and craftspersons. www.gallery-9.com
www.artisansontaylor.com
BEAD STUDIO
12 NORTHWIND ARTS CENTER TH-M 12-5 • 2409 JEFFERSON ST. 360-379-1086
Juried and invitational shows. www.northwindarts.org
13 THE ART MINE
DAILY INN AT PORT HADLOCK, 310 HADLOCK BAY RD. 360-379-8555 3-story contemporary art gallery. www.theartmine.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 25
Know Your Public Transit Options for the Hood Canal Bridge Closure (Closed May-June, 2009)
What’s The Issue?
New South Point Bus Service:
The Hood Canal Floating Bridge (HCB) will close for east half replacement beginning May 1, 2009. The bridge is a primary route for commuters, tourists and casual travelers to/from the Olympic Peninsula. The bridge is scheduled to be closed for six weeks.
A special bus will run continuously between the Shine Pit Park and Ride (Fred Hill Materials property) and the South Point Dock to meet the WSDOT water shuttle between the hours of 4:10 AM and 10:35 PM. There will be over 100 daily bus trips, based on projected water shuttle ridership from a previous WSDOT study of Hood Canal Bridge traffic patterns. The bus covers the five-mile trip in approximately 10 minutes.
The Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) has asked Jefferson Transit to provide additional transportation services on the west end of the bridge during this closure.
What’s the Transportation Concept? Jefferson Transit will provide free public transportation on specific routes on the west side of the Hood Canal to help mitigate the effects of the HCB closure. That transportation will consist of:
How Does This Change the Current #7 Poulsbo Bus Route? As the regularly-scheduled #7 Poulsbo bus will not actually be able to reach Poulsbo during the HCB closure, this route will terminate at the South Point Dock (the end of South Point Road). Jefferson Transit passengers will continue via water shuttle to the Lofall Dock in Kitsap County. From there, another bus will provide transportation to Poulsbo.
• A new bus route between the Shine Pit Park and Ride (Fred Hill Materials property, just off SR 104) and the South Point Dock.
Regularly-scheduled #7 Poulsbo trips will run at slightly modified times to ensure water shuttle connections.
• Additional #7 Route service between Port Townsend and the South Point Dock (via the TriArea and Port Ludlow).
The #7 Poulsbo route will continue to run from the Haines Place Park and Ride to Four Corners, through Port Hadlock, and then on Oak Bay Road to Port Ludlow.
WSDOT will provide a 149-passenger water shuttle from South Point Dock to transport passengers across the Hood Canal every 30 minutes. There will also be free bus services from Lofall Dock to several points on the east side of the Hood Canal, including Kingston, Silverdale, and Poulsbo/Bainbridge Island. Schedules can be found at www.hoodcanalbridge.com.
Paradise Bay Road will not be used on the #7 route during the bridge closure. Another WSDOT road project will close SR 104 in the area between Paradise Bay Road and Teal Lake Road for the duration of the HCB closure. #7 buses will detour from Port Ludlow at Breaker Lane to SR 19 (Beaver Valley Road) via Oak Bay Road, then east on SR 104 to the South Point Dock.
26 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
For passenger convenience, early morning and late evening #7 Poulsbo buses will travel through the downtown and uptown areas of Port Townsend.
Additional #7 Poulsbo Service: Additional #7 Poulsbo trips will begin May 1, 2009. These trips will follow the same route described above. Five additional trips will be added on weekdays, and eight additional trips will be added on weekends for a total of 10 trips per day (See schedule).
Where Can I Park? There will be no parking or drop-off facilities at the South Point Dock; South Point Road will be used exclusively for transit buses, emergency vehicles, and South Point residents. All water shuttle passengers traveling within Jefferson County must arrive at the South Point Dock aboard a bus from Shine Pit Park and Ride, or a #7 Poulsbo bus (from one of that route’s designated bus stops). South Point Bus: Passengers riding the bus originating at the Shine Pit Park and Ride can park at a 1,500 vehicle, ADA accessible parking lot. After-hours security will be provided at this well-lit location. #7 Poulsbo Route: Passengers can park at the following areas to catch the #7 Poulsbo Route. Note that the #7 Poulsbo bus will not stop at the Shine Pit Park and Ride: • Haines Place Park and Ride (Port Townsend) – ADA Accessible • Jefferson County Library (Port Hadlock) – Limited Accessibility • Port Ludlow Recycle Center (Breaker Lane) – Not ADA Accessible • Gateway Visitors Center (SR19 & SR104) – Limited Accessibility
Americans With Disabilities Act (ADA) Passenger Accommodations: In addition to buses being ADA accessible, there will also be a dedicated paratransit vehicle during peak hours to ensure efficient transportation of ADA passengers between the Shine Pit Park and Ride and South Point Dock. There will be designated disabled parking and an ADA compliant loading pad adjacent to the bus loading zone at the Shine Pit Park and Ride.
Passengers With Bicycles: The bottom line is that travelers with bicycles may experience significant delays. Non-standard or motorized bicycles cannot be accommodated by transit buses or the water shuttle. Bicycle traffic is not allowed on South Point Road for safety reasons; all bikes must arrive via bus. Similarly, bicycle traffic is not allowed within the Shine Pit Park and Ride; all bikes must arrive and depart via bus.
Most Jefferson Transit buses are equipped with racks for two or three bikes for use on a first-come, first-served basis. Jefferson Transit policy allows up to two additional bikes to be carried inside vehicles, but only if passenger loads allow. Passengers have priority over bicycles, even mid-route.
Can I Travel With My Pet?
There is a limit of five bikes on the water shuttle. Because several transit buses may transfer bicycles to the water shuttle, there is no guarantee that all bicycles will be able to fit on the next water shuttle.
Space for baggage is very limited on transit buses, and aisles must remain clear for safety. Passengers may either place small baggage on their laps or under seats.
Pets must be in approved carriers to board the water shuttle, and so should be transported similarly on buses. Passengers should be able to handle their pets without assistance
Can I Travel With Baggage?
Copies of this information can be obtained at the Visitors Information Center (Haines Place Park and Ride) or by calling Jefferson Transit at (360) 385-4777. www.jeffersontransit.com
e
t
Jefferson Transit doesn not provide medical transportation. Please visit www.wsdot.wa.gov/Projects/SR104HoodCanalBridgeEast/faq.htm The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 27
CON
N IO
P
TSA I K
Kitsap County Connections
To And From Hood Canal Water Shuttle
NECT
Free buses ready for Park & Ride, Silverdale, Poulsbo, ferry terminals The WSDOT water shuttle arrives and departs at Lofall on the Kitsap side of the Canal. Right at the dock, free buses will be taking passengers to several Kitsap destinations -- or dropping passengers off from those places as they board the water shuttle to Jefferson County. Jefferson Transit and the Washington State Department of Transportation have worked hard to provide bus and water shuttle links that will get you to and from your destinations as quickly as possible. The private bus contractor for Kitsap County is Starline Transportation. Arrivals and departures are coordinated on both sides of the canal. Schedules are always weather-dependent, however. The schedules on the next three pages show free bus links to and from the water shuttle dock at Lofall to the following locations: • Port Gamble Park & Ride. This is the 1,500-car parking lot where residents can keep their private cars. Please note: The park & ride lots cannot accommodate RVs or other large vehicles. • Silverdale Transfer Center, at the main entrance of the Silverdale Mall. • Kingston ferry terminal, to Edmonds. • Bainbridge ferry terminal, to Seattle, (via Poulsbo Transfer Center).
Direct bus service from Lofall Water shuttle passengers will be met at Lofall immediately by buses transporting them to the Port Gamble Park & Ride. Those departing Port Gamble for the canal crossing will be bused to Lofall approximately every 30 minutes. Water shuttle passengers going to or returning from Silverdale, the Kingston ferry terminal, or the Bainbridge ferry terminal (via Poulsbo Transfer Center) will also have bus service directly to or from the Lofall water shuttle landing.
Lofall Dock to Port Gamble Park & Ride parking lot There is no firm schedule for drop-offs and pick-ups between the Port Gamble Park & Ride lot and the Lofall Dock. Bus runs will coincide with water shuttles, leaving right after each water shuttle arrives at Lofall. The first bus will leave Lofall at approximately 4:50 a.m. and the last bus will leave Lofall at approximately 10:50 p.m., depending on the timing of the water shuttle. The transit time from Lofall to Port Gamble is approximately 15 minutes. Bus runs from the Port Gamble Park & Ride to the Lofall Dock will coincide with water shuttles, leaving 30 minutes prior to each water shuttle arriving at Lofall. The first bus will leave Port Gamble at approximately 3:30 a.m. and the last bus will leave Port Gamble at approximately 10:30 p.m. The transit time from Port Gamble to Lofall is approximately 15 minutes.
No private vehicles at Lofall
Check websites for updates
Please note: NO PRIVATE VEHICLES are allowed to drop off or pick up foot passengers at the Lofall Dock. All passengers should be dropped off or picked up at the Port Gamble Park & Ride lot. For reasons of pedestrian and bicyclist safety, only buses are allowed to go to the Lofall landing.
It is possible that some Kitsap bus connection schedules may change. For the most up-to-date information always check the bridge closure website: www.HoodCanalBridge.com. You can also check for updates at www.JeffConnections. com or www.JeffersonTransit.com.
Park & Ride always open
Not all Kitsap routes are free
Have a second car? Many residents will be leaving one at the Port Gamble Park & Ride. There’s room for 1,500 cars, no parking fee and no time limit while the bridge is closed. In addition the lot will be patrolled 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Keeping a second car at Port Gamble means you can take the water shuttle across the canal, be bused to the Park & Ride, and be on your way in a few minutes. The lots close at midnight. Note: RVs or other large vehicles are not allowed to park at the Park & Ride lots.
All bus service directly to or from the Lofall Dock as described above is free. However if you transfer to a route served by a Kitsap Transit bus to make other connections, you will be charged standard bus fares.
Medical bus at Lofall helps you keep medical appointments A medical bus service provides free transport from the Lofall Dock to people who receive ongoing medical treatment at Kitsap County locations, so long as those people do not require constant monitoring or care. This is a reservation-only system. Make your reservation at least a day in advance by calling (877) 595-4222.
Space restrictions apply Carry-on luggage on both buses and the water shuttle is limited to what you can carry on your lap or put under your seat (similar to inside an airliner). All small pets must be transported in approved carriers. Although ADA compliant, there is limited space for mobility devices on the water shuttles. Bicyclists may experience delays in loading at the Lofall Dock due to space restrictions on the water shuttle.
Jefferson Transit Jefferson Transit is responsible for bus links on the west side of the canal. Jefferson Transit is sponsoring this informational advertisement about Kitsap bus links. Learn more about Jefferson Transit at www.JeffersonTransit.com.
Kitsap County Connections
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To And From Hood Canal Water Shuttle
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LOFALL to KINGSTON FERRY LOFALL to Seven Days a Week BAINBRIDGE FERRY LofallKingston LofallLofall Kingston
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* Ferry Times can vary based on sailing010:55 conditions. : PM : PM : PM : Arrivals are:estimated times. : ■10:25 010:30 This: ferry trip does not operate : : on Sundays. : : : : trip operates: Monday through : : : •*Ferry ThisArrivals Friday :only. are estimated ■ This trip operates Saturday and Sunday only. times *Ferry Arrivals Times can are estimated vary based times
* Poulsbo is drop-off and pick-up only.
* Poulsbo is drop-off and pick-up only Service will Service will utilize the Jefferson Transit bus zone at Poulsbo Transfer Center utilize the Jefferson Service to Poulsbo stops at 7:20 PM Weekdays & Saturdays. Transit bus zone No service to Poulsbo on Sundays. at Poulsbo Transfer **Ferry arrival times are estimated. Center. Times may vary based on sailing conditions. This trip operates Monday through Saturday only. • Monday through Friday only.
CON
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Kitsap County Connections
To And From Hood Canal Water Shuttle
NECT
LOFALL LANDING to SILVERDALE MondayLofall-Silverdale Transfer Center - Monday-Saturday LofallSaturday Lofall
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Lofall-Silverdale Transfer Center - Sunday Lofall-
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Facing page...
is a duplicate of an earlier Page 27 with information about Jefferson Transit. As “Discover” was being printed the Kitsap bus connections were not yet set. When they were, Jefferson Transit went to extraordinary lengths to ensure Kitsap’s bus schedule was added to this magazine for the sake of riders and readers. The only way to include these pages was by adding pages to the magazine center and duplicating Page 27. Mike Pollock and Dave Turissini of Jefferson Transit deserve thanks for providing full transit info in “Discover.” – Scott Wilson, Publisher
Lighthouse Tour
Tour... • Continued from page 24
in the nearby village of Port Townsend was a church bell, donated by a skipper to St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on the condition that it be rung on foggy days. The original light was built in 1879 on a 46-foot frame tower with a nearby fog signal. The light could be seen for 13 miles. The sandy point is periodically at risk of washing away. In 1904 1,500 tons of riprap were dumped to protect the spit. Today’s lighthouse was built in 1914 with an octagonal tower that is 49 feet tall. The nearly round shape of the tower was determined by the often high winds that slice across Point Wilson. The original lighthouse was kept as the keeper’s home, minus the tower. On a foggy April morning in 1921, keeper William J. Thomas heard the grinding noise of two ships colliding. He couldn’t see them, but passenger vessel Governor had just been crumpled by the freighter West Hartland in 600 feet of cold water. His quick action in calling for help from Port Townsend saved all but eight passengers. The lighthouse was automated in 1976 and is operated remotely from the Port Angeles Coast Guard Air Station. U.S. Coast Guard staff and family used the residence until 2000. The relentless effort of
The New Dungeness Lighthouse on Sequim’s Dungeness Spit was among the first built in the Northwest, in 1857. Its round 62-foot tower was once 92 feet tall. Photo by Valerie Henschel
the sea to wash away the sandy spit remains a challenge; engineers believe that the lighthouse must someday be moved. To find it: From State Route 20 into Port Townsend, follow the signs to Fort Worden State Park. Turn left on Kearney, right on Blaine, then left on Walker, which becomes Cherry. Cherry ends at Fort Worden. Drive down to the beach.
Sequim’s New Dungeness Lighthouse - 1857 Dungeness Spit is six miles long and one of the great natural spits in the world. It reminded English Capt. George Vancouver of Dungeness Point on England’s southeast coast; he named it after that landmark in 1792. In 1849 the spit was designated for a lighthouse, and in 1857 the U.S. government con-
structed it. It was the second lighthouse established in all of the Washington Territory. The original lighthouse was a Cape Cod-style duplex with the tower rising from the roof. The tower was 92 feet tall. Originally, the bottom half was painted white; the top half, black. It had a fog bell, replaced by a steam whistle in 1873. Dungeness Spit was the scene of Indian battles but they left the keepers alone. Continued on page 30 •
28 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 29
Discover: Lighthouse Tour
Tour... • Continued from page 28
In 1868 the sole survivor of a Tsimshiam party that had been attacked by S’Klallams – a pregnant woman – crawled to the lighthouse. The keepers took her in. They faced down S’Klallams searching for the woman. A second keeper’s quarters was built in 1905. By 1927 structural cracks appeared in the 92-foot tower and it was shortened by 30 feet. The new tower was painted white, as it remains today. This was the last Coast Guard station manned on the West Coast. In 1994 the final keeper left. That’s when volunteers from the New Dungeness Chapter of the U.S. Lighthouse Society stepped in to save the lighthouse. The chapter leases the historic structure from the Coast Guard and allows volunteers to serve as lighthouse keepers each week. Duties require giving tours of the light
tower (74 steps), mowing the lawn and minor upkeep. The reservation list is two years long. In July 1999 a volunteer saved the lighthouse buildings from a racing brush fire, using sprinklers. The lighthouse is now surrounded by the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge, haven to more than 250 species of birds, 41 species of land mammals and eight species of marine mammals. To find it: From downtown Sequim turn north on Sequim Avenue, which becomes Sequim Dungeness Way. Follow to its end.
The Cape Flattery lighthouse on Tatoosh Island just west of Neah Bay was built in 1857, making it one of the state’s oldest. Its most legendary keeper lived and worked there for 32 years starting in 1900. Photo by Kraig Anderson
inspector – famous for moving the Customs House from Port Townsend to Port Angeles in Port Angeles’ Ediz Hook 1862 by threatening to shell Port Townsend from a warship. Lighthouse - 1908 He appointed his sister and Port Angeles Harbor is father as the first Ediz Hook the deepest on the Olympic Peninsula, protected by 3.5-mile lighthouse keepers. A fog bell was added in long Ediz Hook. As early as 1885. It rang every 15 sec1862, driftwood was burned onds in the fog. at the end of the spit to guide In 1908 a fog signal building ships. President Abraham was constructed along with a Lincoln’s executive order led new lighthouse tower, eightto a constructed lighthouse in sided, similar to the Mukilteo 1865. The first one looked like lighthouse. a country schoolhouse with a Those structures were small tower at one end. Victor replaced by today’s steel tower Smith was the U.S. Customs lighthouse in 1946. A modern beacon was placed on the control tower at Coast Guard Air Station Port Angeles at the end of Ediz Hook. The 1908 lighthouse building was barged across the harbor to Port Angeles, where, as a private residence, it can be seen today. To find the modern lighthouse tower: From the Port Angeles waterfront, drive or hike out to the end of Ediz Hook. It’s 3.5 miles. To find the 1908 lighthouse residence, from U.S. 101 in The lighthouse at Ediz Hook in Port Angeles, built in 1908, was barged Port Angeles go south on across Port Angeles Harbor in 1946 and is now a private home, not far from Albert Street, to Fourth Street. the waterfront. Photo by Kraig Anderson Please respect the privacy of the owners. 30 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Cape Flattery Lighthouse, Tatoosh Island - 1857
A half-mile off Cape Flattery is Tatoosh Island, named for a “surly and forbidding” Makah Indian chief encountered there by Capt. John Meares in 1788. The Makah used the island as a summer whaling and salmon fishing base. In 1854 the U.S. government authorized construction of a lighthouse and a weather station on the island. In 1855 the government purchased the entire island. Shortly thereafter a construction crew arrived. They were given a hostile reception by the Makahs, hundreds of whom had died from smallpox. The Makahs continued to use the island. The construction crew built a blockhouse for their protection and always had a man on guard. The building was one-anda-half stories tall with a tower protruding from the roof. The light first came on in late 1857. For the keepers, Cape Flattery was no plum assignment. They were extremely isolated, sometimes bothered by the Makahs, and the weather was relentlessly terrible during winter months. Smoke from the chimney was often forced back
Continued on page 32 •
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and keepers served for 18 months at a time. In 1968 the lighthouse was automated. Two keepers’ buildCowan was one of the legendIn 1775 a Spanish ship anings have been removed. The ary lighthouse keepers of chored near what is now called only structures left besides the Washington. He oversaw the Destruction Island off the lighthouse are two oil houses lighthouse for 32 years, startPacific coast and sent a party and the fog signal building. ing in 1900, and not leaving of men ashore for wood and In 2008 the Coast Guard it until he hit the mandatory water. They were all massacred determined that the light is no • Continued from page 30 retirement age of 70 in 1932. by Indians. In 1787 the HMS longer used for navigation and into the house by high winds. He and his wife raised eight Eagle dispatched a longboat to switched it off. In 1872 a steam-powered children there. Cowan was of- explore the coast near DestrucThe lighthouse’s original fog whistle was added, fed fered other, less stormy posts, tion Island. That crew also was Fresnel lens, with 24 bull’s eyes by a cistern. In 1875 a new but he always turned them massacred. The Eagle’s skipper, and 1,176 prisms, is on display duplex was built nearby. In down. He is credited with Charles W. Barkley, named the at the Westport Maritime 1894 the old building was several rescues. area Destruction, and it held Museum, where it is considrefurbished. The weather station closed firm for the rugged island. ered the finest first-order lens The keepers relied on the in 1966; the buildings were In 1888 a lighthouse was display in the world. Makahs for transport, mail, demolished. In 1977 the light built on the 30-acre, tabletop To find it: Traveling south supplies and company. The was automated and the island island. The complex included on U.S. 101 from Ruby Beach, Indians were paid $1 to cross lost its year-round inhabitants. two dwellings, a cistern and a various turnouts make the on a calm day; $2 on a stormy In 1999 the station underwent barn. The first keeper came Destruction Point Lighthouse day. It’s claimed that a piano a substantial renovation. To in 1889, but the 94-foot conical visible. The best one is two and a cow were delivered in find it: Take U.S. 101 west tower was not completed until miles south of Ruby Beach. dugout canoes. to State Route 113, go north 1891, when it was joined by a Cape Flattery’s John M. to State Route 112. Follow it fog signal. west to Neah Bay, home of the It was a large station with Much of the factual information in The 1891 Destruction Island Makah Indian Reservation. four keepers and several this article came from the Lighthouse Five miles west of Neah Bay, families. The island had its own lighthouse with its 94-foot tower Friends website maintained by has the tallest light of any on the find the Cape Flattery Trail. In schoolhouse, cows and a big Kraig Anderson, who also supplied Olympic Peninsula. The lighthouse is less than a mile you’re at the garden. many photos. Find it at two miles out to sea. tip of the cape and can see the In 1939 the U.S. Coast www.LighthouseFriends.com. Photo by Kraig Anderson island and lighthouse. Guard took over the station,
Discover: Lighthouse Tour
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32 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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Discover: Sequim
Sequim: blue skies and fields of lavender By Allison Arthur of The Leader
valley – bask in a climate that is likened to that of France because it’s in the rainshadow Say you are going to of the Olympic Mountains. Sequim – it’s pronounced In fact, I can’t think of “s’kwim,” thank you – and a time I’ve been in Sequim visions of lavender fields, the when it’s rained, although it’s Dungeness National Wildlife often windy on the DungeRefuge and Costco might ness Spit. come to mind. Jeri Smith, who has lived Stop. Take a look around in Sequim all her life, works at and you’ll find that the little the Sequim Chamber of Comtown 25 miles west of Port merce Visitor Center, which Townsend and 17 miles east is open seven days a week at of Port Angeles offers more 1192 E. Washington St. (800than fresh lavender, fresh 737-8462). crab and a side order of bigWhen she entertains box stores like Costco and guests from afar or even WalMart. near, Smith says she takes More than anything, people them to the Dungeness River who live in Sequim savor all Audubon Center, the Olympic that the outdoors offers them. Game Farm, Dungeness Spit Step out the back door and and the lavender farms. And there are the snow-capped no visit is complete without a Olympics and elk roaming the jaunt to the Olympic Discovhillsides. Step out the front ery Trail. door and there are the windSmith has stayed in swept wildlife refuge and miles Sequim because it’s beautiand miles of beaches. ful, people are friendly and Step out for a day in down- there’s plenty to do outside town Sequim and there are – in that sunshine. darling boutiques and one-ofEnjoying all that Sequim a-kind shops just a hop, skip has to offer would take a good and a jump away from those week – or a few weekend trips. big-brand name stores. And Here are some attractions. well-loved restaurants such as The Three Crabs and Hi-Way Art and casino 101 Diner. Between Port Townsend And the sun. The 6,000 and Sequim, stop in Blyn and people who live in Sequim check out the Northwest Na– and some 20,000 in the tive Expressions Art Gallery,
Northwest Native Expressions Art Gallery has a cornucopia of art from Native American artists, including masks, baskets, boxes, prints, sculptures and drums. Photo by Barney Burke
which features art as well as history of the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe. The architecture here is fabulous. Watch totem carvers. Enjoy Sequim Bay. Or go up the street and visit the 7 Cedars Casino, which offers gambling, music, food and more art. Check out www.7cedarscasino.com and www.jamestowntribe.org.
Lavender
On your way to Sequim, look for lavender farms and the Wild Birds Unlimited store. If you want to immerse yourself in lavender, the 13th Annual Sequim Lavender
34 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Continued on page 36 •
sequim events April 23-26 • Jazz in the Olympics, traditional jazz, swing and gospel music at four locations, www.jazzolympics.com. April 24 • Sequim Education Foundation Film Festival at Sequim High School, Sequimeducationfoundation. org. May 1 • First Friday Art Walk: “Inspired by Nature” in downtown Sequim, www.sequimartwalk.com. May 1-2 • 33rd Annual Bonsai Exhibition sponsored by Dungeness Bonsai Society at St. Luke’s, 360-461-2774.
Continued on page 36 •
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Discover: Sequim
sequim events
Places to go...
• Continued from page 34 May 2 • Opening Day on Sequim Bay sponsored by Sequim Bay Yacht Club, www. sequimbayyachtclub.org.
• Continued from page 34
Festival is July 17-19. Tour farms, enjoy a street fair, savor lavender workshops. Visit www.lavenderfestival.com or call 877-681-3035. Purple Haze Lavender also has a shop at 127 W. Washington St., and several stores offer samples of lavender.
May 2 • 31st Annual Sequim Run Off, the oldest running event in Clallam County, www. athleteschoice.info. May 2-3 • Irrigation Festival Arts and Craft Fair, downtown, www.irrigationfestival. com.
John Wayne Marina
Just before you get to Sequim heading west, look for the John Wayne Marina, named after the famous Western actor. A magazine once dubbed this little marina “one of the best in the West,” and it’s easy to see why. The marina is a great place to stop, rest, picnic and enjoy the water. The 22 acres were donated to the Port of Port Angeles by John Wayne’s family in 1985. If you have a dog that needs a romp on the beach – on leash, please, because of birds – stop here. Take note of the sign that says “Kids Don’t Float,” which offers little lifejackets, while you check out the boats in the marina. And if you are hungry, there are several spots. The Dockside Grill (www. docksidegrill-sequim.com) is a great place for dinner. Get reservations early, however. For more information on the marina, visit www.portofpa. com/marinas.
Olympic Game Farm
The Olympic Game Farm offers a chance for young ones to get up close and personal
with wildlife, including buffalo and bear. There’s a free petting barn, but it costs to take a driving tour and see animals in their own environment. Visit www.olygamefarm.com or call 800-778-4295.
Lavender is everywhere in Sequim, which hosts a big festival on the third weekend in July. Purple Haze Lavender Farm has a retail store in downtown Sequim. Photo by Barney Burke
Downtown shopping, food
include the Sunshine Café and Hi-Way 101 Diner on Washington Street. Listen to Elvis and enjoy a Blue Suede Shoe burger at the 101. It’s like traveling back to the 1950s. And do check out the back streets, which house gems like A Dropped Stitch yarn shop on Bell Street, and Metal & Mud art gallery on West Spruce Street. Both are treasure stores off the beaten path.
Parking is relatively easy in downtown Sequim. Get as close as you can to the main intersection of East Washington and Sequim Avenue, and then take it from there. In addition to the Purple Haze Lavender shop, stop by Dungeness Bay Wine and Cheese, Pondicherri, Mad Maggie Boutique, the Dove’s Nest, and Over the Fence, to name a few good haunts that are unique. All of these shops always smell good! Find good coffee and locals at the Hurricane Coffee Co., at the intersection, or The Buzz, down the street from there. Food is really good in Sequim, and some favorites
Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge
If you come to Sequim early and want to experience nature at its best, head out past Sequim on Highway 101, take a right at Kitchen-Dick Road,
36 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Continued on page 38 •
May 8-9 • 114th Irrigation Festival features logging show, classic car show, strongman competition, parades through Sequim and fireworks, www.irrigationfestival.com. May 23 • Olympic Peninsula Doll Club 27th Annual Show and Sale at Sequim High School, 360-876-5815. May 30 • Dungeness Kids Fair at Guy Cole Center in Carrie Blake Park, www.dungenesskids.com. June 5 • First Friday Art Walk: “The Starry Night” in downtown Sequim, www.sequimartwalk.com. June 7 • North Olympic Discovery Marathon from Sequim to Port Angeles, nodm.com. June 20 • Olympic Game Farm Fundraiser, www.olygamefarm.com. June 23 & June 30 • Music in the Park, free concerts in Carrie Blake Park, sponsored by City of Sequim, www.cityofsequim.com.
Walk or hike through the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge or just sit and enjoy scenic Dungeness Spit, which is five miles long and extremely narrow. Photo by Barney Burke
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Discover: Sequim
Sights and sounds... • Continued from page 36
and go north to the Dungeness refuge. Seriously, this is a breathtaking area. That’s all there is to say about the preserve that President Woodrow Wilson established in 1915. It encompasses 636 acres, including one of the world’s longest natural sand spits. Although it is considered
a challenge, a hike out to the New Dungeness Light Station is well worth it. Take your time. It could be an all-day venture, and there are no toilets between the parking area and the lighthouse, so be forewarned. Bring a picnic lunch and a camera and leave the cell behind. Spot has to be left behind too, because of migrating birds. (But there
are places elsewhere in the area where Spot can run.) For more information check out www.fws.gov/ washingtonmaritime/ dungeness.
Birds and nature
The Dungeness River Audubon Center at Railroad Bridge Park is a must-visit spot, with its historic bridge, natural history exhibits and hands-on programs created by a partnership of the Audubon Society and Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe. It’s about two miles west of Sequim. Don’t miss the BirdFest in April. Visit www.dungenessriver center.org or call 360-681-4076
A little history
The Sequim Valley was nearly desert-like 100 years ago, when pioneers such as D.R. “Crazy” Callen came to the area and found a type of cactus growing, according to Jean Wyatt of the Sequim Irrigation Festival. Give Callen and his buddies credit for developing irrigation ditches that first brought water from the Dungeness River to the dry lands. History has it that the first headgate to those irrigation ditches was lifted on May 1, 1895, and a year later, the folks celebrated on Callen’s farm – and that’s how the Sequim Irrigation Festival was born. “In the beginning they called it a May Day picnic and had a Maypole,” said Wyatt, who is planning for this year’s 114th festival. There will be a series of events in the first
Look for birds and a big Olympic Peninsula BirdFest that offers special field trips, or just take a gander out the window at birds like this blue heron ready to take flight. Photo by Barney Burke 38 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Once upon a time a train went through it; now people bike and walk and enjoy the Olympic Discovery Trail that runs through Jefferson and Clallam counties and includes this old bridge in Sequim. Photo by Barney Burke
week in May, culminating with big events set for May 8-9 that include three parades on May 9. There are grand pioneers who were born and raised in Sequim, and honorary pioneers who have lived in the area for more than 40 years. “It’s about celebrating the history that made Sequim the great place and community that it is today,” said Wyatt. The Sequim Irrigation Festival is the longest continuing festival in the state. So look for those pioneers during the parade and check out the classic car show at the WalMart parking lot. Do remember – there’s more to Sequim than bigname stores. There’s lot of little unique stores and a wide-open wildlife refuge to explore for free. But whatever you do, don’t miss the Irrigation Festival, which sets the tone for the small community where the sun seems to shine most days.
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 39
Discover: Day Hikes
Old Spruce Railroad, waterfalls and more on Olympic trails Five easy day hikes By Kathie Meyer of The Leader You don’t have to be a seasoned hiker to experience the Olympic Peninsula’s West End trails. Many of them take just an hour or less and are perfect for a picnic lunch. There is no fee to hike these trails except for the one leading to Cape Flattery on the Makah Indian Reservation. Buy a recreation permit good for the calendar year for $10 per carload at the Makah Marina, Washburn’s General Store, Makah Tribal Center, Makah Museum, Neah Bay Charter & Tackle, Makah Fuel Co. and the Makah Smoke Shop. Otherwise you risk a fine.
Spruce Railroad Trail
U.S. Highway 101 travels around the south side of Lake Crescent, one of the deepest lakes in Washington state at a maximum of 624 feet, but you can also explore the north side of the lake by taking a right on East Beach Road. This is the way to the four-mile, relatively flat Spruce Railroad Trail – a remnant of the Spruce Railroad built during World
War I to transport spruce to Port Angeles. Spruce was considered the best wood at the time for building airplane frames. Bicyclists are also welcome here.
Marymere Falls
Continuing on Highway 101 on Lake Crescent’s south side leads to the trailhead of the 90-foot Marymere Falls, a short 0.9-mile hike through old-growth Douglas fir, flowering plants and a variety of mushrooms. There are actually two trails. The “easy” one goes to a lower lookout, about halfway up the height of the falls; it provides a better photo-op. The “harder” trail leads to a higher lookout. Both trails connect to form a loop.
Sol Duc Falls
Farther on Highway 101, past the Fairholme Store and Marina at the western tip of the lake, take a left and follow Sol Duc River Road up to the hot springs resort and campground of the same name. A short, easy 0.8-mile hike here rises to Sol Duc Falls for more cascading glory. The trail does continue upward – all the way to Mount Olympus’ Blue Glacier – for those with a more adventurous spirit and wilderness hiking experience.
Cape Flattery
Way out on the tip of the peninsula is the northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States. Take State Route 112 to Neah Bay and follow the signs to Cape Flatter y, where the 0.75-mile hike over a combination of cedar boardwalk and groomed earthen trail leads to four lookouts. Here you’ll see Tatoosh Island a half mile away from
40 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Even on day hikes, be sure to dress for changing weather and carry water, and watch for slippery boardwalks. Binoculars and a camera are also recommended. Always stay on the trail and use “leave no trace” techniques to preserve the wilderness. Sorry, no pets allowed. Photo by Kathie Meyer
shore, standing sentry at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. No one lives on the Continued on page 42 •
www.SwainsOutdoor.com
The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 41
Discover: Day Hikes
Five easy hikes... • Continued from page 40
island except nesting seabirds, several marine mammals and a diverse community of marine plants and animals. Looking down into the water, it’s not unusual to observe sea otters frolicking in the kelp forests and feasting on sea urchins.
La Push – Second Beach
Farther south on the map, branching off of Highway 101, take State Route 110 to La Push, where Second Beach Trail is a 0.07-mile
Seastacks and tidepools await hikers at the end of the Second Beach Trail in La Push. Photo by Tim Van Riper
hike to a smooth, expansive beach with tidepools and seastacks at low tide. On a clear day with sunshine (yes, it does happen), this is an awe-inspiring way to spend your time. More day hikes are listed in the Olympic National Park brochure titled “Day Hikes,” found by clicking the link at www.nps.gov/olym/ day-hiking.htm. For more in-depth information, consult Day Hike! Olympic Peninsula (Sasquatch Books) by Seabury Blair or Day Hiking, Olympic Peninsula (Done in a Day) (Mountaineers Books) by Craig Romano.
The short hike to Cape Flattery takes you to the northwesternmost tip of the contiguous United States and a view of Tatoosh Island. Photo by Kathie Meyer
42 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 43
Discover: Port Angeles
Port Angeles Historic waterfront, plenty of art, food and recreation By Barney Burke of The Leader Port Angeles offers plenty of day-trip options, but if you have the time, it’s worth spending several days here – or make it part of a trip to Olympic National Park or Victoria, B.C. When I say I’m heading to Port Angeles for lunch, I don’t mean just lunch. There are certain things I always try to do there, starting with the huge magazine rack at Port Book and News on First Street. In addition to the magazines and books, there’s
always a thought-provoking message in the front window, and a regular schedule of author readings.
Plenty to eat
If you’re a fan of the Twilight book series, check out Bella Italia restaurant, just a few doors down First Street. Across the street is Country Aire Natural Foods, which has some things that you just won’t find at home. Michael’s Divine Dining is downstairs. And where else on the Olympic Peninsula can you get Indian food? India Oven, on Lincoln Street, has a good buffet. In the same building, there’s tasty Thai food at Thai Peppers. And two blocks up on First Street, Dynasty makes some of the best chow fun (wide noodles) I’ve found in the Northwest.
servation tower for a panoramic view. The Arthur D. Feiro Marine Life Center operates on weekends during the school year and seven days in the summer. You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy the hands-on exhibits of Exploring the town live critters. After lunch, try a walk on Just up Lincoln a few blocks the waterfront or the Olympic from downtown is, I believe, Discovery Trail. Climb the obthe biggest Goodwill Store on the Olympic Peninsula. Nothing wrong with the Goodwill Store in Port Townsend, but you know how it is: The grass always seems greener. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve run into neighbors from Port Townsend at this store. If you’re into thrift stores, don’t miss Habitat for Humanity’s Re-Store (728 East Front St.), Serenity House (502 East First) and St. Vincent De Paul (112 East Eighth). And check out Waste Not Want Not (724 E. First). Yep, it’s like the Port Townsend store but has a With a population of about 20,000, Port Angeles has a big-city harbor, as lot more outdoor space and all kinds of used building seen from Webster’s Woods at the Port Angeles Fine Art Center. Photo by Barney Burke materials. On the way back to Port 44 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Molly Rivard (left) and Kathy Charlton own Olympic Cellars, located about nine miles east of Port Angeles on Highway 101. Photo by Barney Burke
Townsend, I always stop at the original Swain’s store on First Street. Yes, we have a Swain’s Outdoors in Port Townsend and in Sequim, but I get a kick out of Cliff Swain’s circa 1957 emporium with the neon sign. You’ve got to like a store with wooden floors and the ladies’ and children’s department upstairs.
Wineries
On Highway 101, nine miles east of downtown, you’ll find Olympic Cellars in a picturesque barn. Owners Molly Rivard and Kathy Charlton call it “Washington’s Working Girl Boutique Winery.” Within three to five miles of downtown are Black Diamond Winery at 2976 Black Diamond Road, Camaraderie Cellars at 334 Benson Road, and Harbinger Winery at 2358 Continued on page 46 •
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 45
Discover: Port Angeles
“enhanced” driver’s license is required to cross the border, and felons are usually not allowed (DUIs are a felony in Canada).
toria Express, which operate side by side at The Landing. Coho takes vehicles and Biking walk-on passengers. From Bring your bike to Port March 7 through May 14, Angeles. In fact, you can bike there are two round trips to Port Angeles on the Olymdaily. From May 14 through pic Discovery Trail. Although Sept. 24, there are three round trips, more on some weekends. Reservations and other information are available at www.cohoferry.com and 360-457-4491. Victoria Express is for passengers only, but it crosses in April 17-19 • Eighth Annual 55 minutes versus 90 minutes Kayak Symposium at City for Coho. The Victoria Express Pier and Hollywood Beach, www.seasuns.com/ season begins May 22 and kayaksymposium.htm. runs on Friday/Saturday/ Judith Bird’s sculpture “Witness” is located at Webster’s Woods, part of the Sunday/Monday until June Port Angeles Fine Art Center. Photo by Jake Seniuk. April 18 • Kids Fishing Derby 26, when it runs seven days. at Lincoln Park, ages 5-14, From May 24 through July www.ci.port-angeles.wa.us. 18, it has two round trips. Reservations are available at April 24-26 • Jazz in the www.victoriaexpress.com and Olympics, live music at various venues, 360-452-8088. www.jazzolympics.com. There are several nearby parking lots with nominal has quite a bit of sidewalk • Continued from page 44 April 25 • Mustang and fees. Getting on a boat in sculpture. Artwalks are ofCougar Car Show and Shine Highway 101 West, near the at Clallam County Courthouse, fered on the second Saturday peak times is a lot easier if Chevy dealership. www.northolympicmustangs. of the month at 11 a.m.; meet you’re not tied to a vehicle, com. at the atrium of The Landing, and getting around Victoria Art doesn’t really require your at the waterfront. People who live in Port May 22-25 • Juan de Fuca own car. You can bring bikes One of the more popular Townsend might be surprised Festival of the Arts at Vern on both Coho and Victoria downtown works of art is the to see just how much public Burton Center, more than 125 Express. mural of the ferry Kalakala art Port Angeles has. You performances of music, dance Note that a passport or by Port Townsend artist Cory and theater, workshops and could plan a whole day trip Ench, on the back of Bank of street fair, www.jffa.org. around art. America. Also check out StuThe jewel is the Port May 23-24 • Ninth Annual dio Bob at 118½ Front Street Angeles Fine Arts Center Halibut Derby, tickets availand Waterfront Art Gallery in at 1203 E. Lauridsen Blvd. able at Swain’s and Port The Landing. Park in the lot by the end of Angeles Yacht Club, www. For local drama and Ninth Street for easy access swainsinc.com. music, consider the Port to the gallery and 5 acres of Angeles Symphony (www. June 7 • North Olympic sculpture garden known as Discovery Marathon, full and Webster’s Woods. It provides olypen.com/pasymphony), half marathons and relays Port Angeles Light Opera the best view of the wateralong the Olympic Discovery Association (www.paloa.org) front, by the way. Trail. Dinner is June 6, www. and Port Angeles Community Admission is free, but donodm.com. Players (www. nations keep the place open. Housed in a beautiful Carnegie pacommunityplayers.com). From May to October, “art June-September • Concerts Library is the Clallam County rangers” lead tours on first on the Pier, Wednesdays at 6 Historical Society’s museum. Saturdays at 10 a.m. and third Sail to Victoria p.m. starting mid-June, downPhoto by Barney Burke town, www.portangeles.org/ You can visit Victoria by Wednesdays at 2 p.m. sailing on the Coho or the VicConcertonthePierSeries.html. Downtown Port Angeles
angeles events
Art and adventure...
46 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
Local history
The Clallam County Historical Society’s museum at the Carnegie is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday at 207 S. Lincoln. You’ll learn about “Strong People, the Faces of Clallam County,” starting with the Lower Elwha S’Klallam Tribe. President Lincoln approved Port Angeles as a town site in 1862, but it was mostly a military reservation until claim jumpers got Downtown has a lot of art, including this mural of impatient in 1890. the ferry Kalakala by Cory Ench. Photo by Barney Burke
Olympic National Park
park for $15, or $80 for all national parks. If you’re 62, you can buy a lifetime national parks pass for just $10. It’s 24 miles to Hurricane Ridge from downtown. Chains are required through May 1, and it’s a winding, narrow road. Call 360-565-3131 or visit www.nps.gov/ olym for road closure and other information on Olympic National Park. A webcam shows the ever-changing weather at Hurricane Ridge, which can be dicey. But Olympic National Park is so much more than Hurricane Ridge. Lake Crescent is just 20 miles from Port Angeles. Even if you can’t spend the night at Lake Crescent Lodge, stop in for lunch or dinner and a stroll around the shore. Marymere Falls, East Beach and Devil’s Punchbowl are all nearby.
To reach the Olympic National Park visitor center, take Race Street south the trail does not yet extend from Highway 101 until it becomes Hurto Port Townsend, you can get on it near ricane Ridge Road. the Tribal Arts Center in Blyn, or park You can buy an annual pass to the in downtown Sequim and pedal on over. It’s about 20 miles by bike from SeARE YOU READY? quim to Port Angeles. For the most part, Six-week Hood Canal Bridge closure it’s flat and easy, often paralleling local starts May 1, 2009 roads. Be advised of some rough spots, CL ALL AM TR ANSIT SYSTEM including long stretches of “chip seal” Express Bus Service paving – a mountain bike is better suited Port Angeles via Sequim to Water Shuttle at South Point to this trail. As you near the Port Angeles waterfront, you can sense the Strait Clallam Transit will provide daily express service during the peak hours of the day. Three express runs will be made during morning peak periods with buses timed to coincide of San Juan de Fuca before you see it, with the South Point water shuttle departure times. Three express service runs in the and the trail takes you right downtown. afternoon would also operate during the evening peak periods. You can continue west of downtown on Leave Port Angeles Leave South Point Leave Port Angeles Leave South Point the same trail. 5:00 a.m. 6:30 a.m. 3:10 p.m. 4:40 p.m. Another option is to bring your bike 6:00 a.m. 7:30 a.m. 4:10 p.m. 5:40 p.m. downtown and pedal out to Ediz Hook 7:00 a.m. 8:30 a.m. 5:10 p.m. 6:40 p.m. and back. It’s an eight-mile round trip, Fare-free express transit service for commuters and travelers will be provided during the May-June 2009 Hood Canal Bridge closure. and while there are some big trucks on that road, it’s a pretty easy ride. Phone Clallam Transit System at 452-4511 or 1/800-858-3747 for additional route and schedule information.
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 47
Discover: Forks
Vampire capital of the world By Kathie Meyer of The Leader The logging town of Forks didn’t get much respect until Stephenie Meyer came along and decided that with its many gray days, Forks is the perfect setting for the vampires in her best-selling Twilight series read by young and old alike. Now fans of Bella and Edward are flocking to Forks in record numbers. You can take a self-guided tour of all the Twilight hot spots, beginning with Bella’s truck at the visitor center at 1411 South Forks Ave. (U.S. Highway 101). Inside the center, personnel are happy to hand out a free Forks Twilight Map along with Twilight trivia tests. A guided tour for serious fans, however, departs from Dazzled by Twilight, a store devoted solely to Twilight souvenirs, at 61 North Forks Ave. Three tours are offered daily; each lasts two to three hours. The Breaking Dawn tour begins at 8 a.m., the Volturi tour starts at 11:30 a.m., and the Twilight tour takes off at 3 p.m. Former Hollywood tour guide Travis Belles leads participants though the sights and sounds of Forks and La Push represented in Meyer’s books. The tour includes the history of Forks and La Push and the Quileute people, as well as the fictional world of
The Forks Timber Museum illustrates the local culture and history of the region’s mainstay economy. Widely known as the “Logging Capital of the World,” Forks has a population of 3,221.
Logging capital
Does Edward dazzle you too? Guided Twilight tours leave three times daily from Dazzled by Twilight, a store solely devoted to Stephenie Meyer’s best-selling books and the “Twilight” movie.
If fact over fiction is more your fancy, visit the Forks Timber Museum located next to the visitor center. It’s open Fridays through Sundays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in April and May, and seven days a week from June through September. The museum displays a fascinating array of early
farm implements, logging tools, firefighting gear and a 9-foot-long, three-oven woodburning cast iron stove used to cook meals for dozens of hungry loggers. Outside the museum is a memorial to loggers, an authentic fire lookout and five miles of outdoor trails. Guided tours are available by appointment. Call 360-374-9663.
the Cullen coven, exploring the places where Bella and Edward met, and Bella and the Cullens attended school. Tours include a meal or snack, depending on the time of day, and all three tours visit the same sites. The rate is $39 per person, with motel pickup and dropoffs in Forks available. Contact 360-374-5101 or annette@dazzledbytwilight. com. Several other stores in town Bella’s 1953 Chevy truck is parked right outside the Forks Visitor Center at also sell Twilight gear, so shop 1411 South Forks Ave. Photos by Kathie Meyer around for the most variety.
48 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 49
Discover: West End
Rediscover the outer edge By Kathie Meyer of The Leader
its national park status, signed into legislation by President Franklin Roosevelt in 1938, that it became officially known by its present name. With the bridge closure it is more accessible than ever to us “locals.” There is an entrance fee of $15 per carload or $5 per individual on foot, bicycle or motorcycle. Those passes are good for seven consecutive days. A pass good for a year from purchase is $30. Camping fees are extra and cost $10 to $18. Wilderness overnight fees for the backcountry are $5, plus $2 per night. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/olym. For a complete natural history of the park, consult Sequim author Tim McNulty’s book Olympic National Park: A Natural History (University of Washington Press).
Many world travelers are we on the Olympic Peninsula, but don’t forget that others travel from all over the world to visit our own region’s rare beauty. Perhaps a trip out to the West End is in order to renew your appreciation for this Eden we can call our own. Once you drive past Port Angeles and begin to pass logging trucks with regularity, you’re on the way there. But what is there, exactly? There are two routes to take to visit what author Ivan Doig called “the rough margin of the West” – the better-known U.S. Highway 101 or State Route 112. The latter will afford the northern coastal view, but first check to make sure the road is open, as storms sometimes cause The north side blockage. If choosing Highway Outside of the park, State 101, you can still connect to Route 112 offers the small SR 112 later on, so it’s not an hamlets of Clallam Bay, Sekiu, either/or decision. and Neah Bay. Lighthouse enthusiasts will enjoy Clallam Olympic National Park Bay’s Slip Point Lighthouse, You haven’t actually been and Sekiu is a great destination to the Olympic Peninsula if for kayakers, divers and fisheryou don’t venture into Olymmen. At the end of SR 112 is the pic National Park – the area’s trail to Shi Shi Beach and the crown jewel of 1,400 square famous Point of Arches. miles of exquisite mountains, Neah Bay is located within rain forests, river valleys and the Makah Indian Reservawilderness coast. tion, the largest reservation President Theodore Rooson the peninsula. There, the evelt originally designated this Makah Museum is the nation’s area as Olympic National Mon- sole repository for archaeoument in 1909. It wasn’t until logical discoveries dug out of Congress voted to authorize the Makah coastal village of
West End beaches are wild places and always worth a short hike.
Ozette, revealed in 1970 when tidal erosion exposed the 500year-old perfectly preserved site. Guided fishing excursions, raft and kayak trips also leave from here.
The West End
This is the place to go for some of the best beach camping in the world. Take your pick from Cape Alava or Sandpoint, two overnight hikes (or one long loop) found at the end of the Hoko-Ozette Road, the several beaches found by following State Route 110 off of Highway 101, or continue along Highway 101 to Ruby Beach and Kalaloch. It’s impossible to list everything to see and do on this fair and wild peninsula, so keep an eye out for other adventures, and by all means, talk to the local residents for insider tips. Paradise awaits you.
50 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader
events May-October • Forks Farmers Market on Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. at Forks Timber Museum, opens mid-May and runs through mid-October, 360-327-3877. May 8-16 • “A Little Princess” is presented by Rainforest Players at Rainforest Art Center in Forks. Show dates are May 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 360-374-9806. May 24-26 • Swiftsure sailboat races begin in Victoria, B.C., with turnaround points near Clallam Bay/Sekiu and Neah Bay, www.swiftsure.org. June 25-28 • Summer School in Forks: A Twilight Symposium brings scholars, educators and fans to explore the mythology and folklore buried in Stephenie Meyer’s novels, www.litfanevents.org/ summerinforks.
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360-681-3079 • 800-345-5784 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD 51
May 2-3
Jefferson County Home Builders Association’s
Remodel Your Home: It’s a Wise Investment JeffCo Fairgrounds 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
JeffCoHomeShow.com
Sponsored by the Jefferson County Fair Association The JeffCo HomeShow has a building, remodeling and landscaping focus. Exhibitor booths and demonstrations offer inspiration for all of your home improvement and new construction plans. Builders/suppliers: This is the perfect venue to show off your talents and materials—and the only home show in Jefferson County. Last year’s show attracted more than 1,000 visitors.
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For more info, contact Sandy Hershelman 360.385.1087 or hershelman@olympus.net 52 2009 DISCOVER YOUR OWN BACKYARD The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader