Charm magazine by Lee Huy

CHARM

MAGAZINE

the

Spring

issue

with the very Vietnam all feeling be true.

MAGAZINE â&#x201E;˘

SUNSET BOULEVARD 40 KM OF PURE LEGEND A land of hyperbole and monikers _ movieland, filmland, starland _ a land devouring itself, torn from everything, perched on the blue and gold shores of an immense continent, bathed by the largest ocean ... From the outskirts of Los Angeles, an immense quadrangle construction extends toward the Pacific, its beaches and coastline ... It is Hollywood that links Los Angeles to the ocean, along the four or five avenues stretching over dozens of kilometers. Its exclusive demands and inexorable style are ubiquitous.

Joseph Kessel, Hollywood ville mirage, 1937

SUNSET BOULEVARD 40 KM MYTHIQUES 3

«Terre des hyperboles et des surnoms – movieland, filmland, starland – terre par elle-même dévorée, arrachée à tout, placée sur le rivage bleu et or d’un continent immense, baigné par le plus vaste océan [...]. Des lisières de Los Angeles, un immense quadrilatère bâti s’étire vers le Pacifique, ses plages et ses grèves [...] Ainsi, le long des quatre ou cinq avenues qui s’allongent sur des dizaines de kilomètres, c’est Hollywood qui joint Los Angeles à l’Océan. On sent partout son exigence exclusive, son style inexorable.»

Joseph Kessel, Hollywood ville mirage, 1937

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CHARMING

Vietnam

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CHARM CHARM MAGAZINE 45, rue de Paris, 95747 Roissy CDG Cedex Directrice de la publication — Adeline Challon-Kemoun Directeurs délégués — Jean-Charles Tréhan, Hélène Tiberi AirVietnam Actualités — Valérie Baroin Coordination — Pascale Acerbis et Françoise Armand Distractions à bord — Peter Verheijde et Sonia Ountzian La Boutique — Robert Austin DIRECTOR Gallimard 5, rue Gaston-Gallimard, 75007 Paris. Tél. +33 (0)1 49 54 42 00 – Fax +33 (0)1 49 54 16 40 Président — Antoine Gallimard Rédactrice en chef — Valérie Mallet de Givry Aude Revier assurera la rédaction en chef à compter du numéro de juillet 2013 Directeur artistique - Yann Le Duc Maquette — Christophe Saconney, Fabrice Latouche, Mathieu Martin, David Alazraki, Arielle Cambessédès Rédactrice en chef adjointe — Violaine Gérard Secrétaire générale de la rédaction — Catherine Fouré Secrétariat de rédaction — Anne-Françoise Thomas et Maria Vivas Iconographie — Véronique Masini Assistante rédaction — Julie Poissier Cartographie — Philippe Mouche Infographie — Nicolas Grégoire (La flotte d’Air Vietnam et de Hop) Version anglaise — Lisa Davidson, Alexandra Keens ,Elizabeth Simches Ont également collaboré à ce numéro — Marie Aucouturier, Emmanuel Daydé, Natacha Wolinski Ventes à bord et Distractions à bord, mise en page — Easycom Solutions

PUBLICITÉ/ADVERTISING Lagardère Publicité - Air Vietnam média Présidente — Constance Benqué Directeur général — Philippe Pignol 10, rue Thierry-Le Luron, 92300 Levallois-Perret. Tél. +33 (0)1 41 34 80 00 - Fax +33 (0)1 41 34 83 90 www.airvietnammedia.net Directrice générale adjointe — Caroline Pois-Boisson (83 11) Assistée de — Célia Mingasson (83 13) Directeur commercial adjoint — Emmanuel Lala (83 95) Directeur de publicité — Vincent Boutboul (92 30) Directrice de clientèle — Sophie Chartier (85 71) Directeur de clientèle — Emmanuel Ascher (87 42) Assistante de publicité — Élodie Camer (86 64) Responsable technique — Claudine Delhommeau (84 63) International — tél. +33 (0)1 41 34 86 64 Les Bonnes Adresses — Sébastien Mayol et Soizic Laurent (76 45) FABRICATION Print Alliance Photogravure (Arto). Tél. +33 (0)1 53 80 88 50

Print Alliance Impression, façonnage (Imaye, Sego, Brio). Tél. +33 (0)1 53 80 88 50 Imprimé en France. Printed in France – ISSN 1290-1563 © Air Vietnam - La reproduction, même partielle, des articles et illustrations publiés dans Air VIetnam magazine est interdite. Air Vietnam magazinedécline toute responsabilité pour les documents remis. Les manuscrits non publiés ne sont pas rendus. © ADAGP, Paris 2013 pour les œuvres de ses membres Gallimard Loisirs, SAS filiale des Editions Gallimard au capital de 2 722 860 € RCS Paris B381 220 615

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SOMMAIRE rendez-vous CHRONIQUES Exposition, anniversaire, musique, économie

parfums ENTRETIEN Francis Kurkdjian SHOPPING Composition olfactive AIR DU TEMPS Bulgari, Givenchy, le goût du parfum LES CONFIDENCES DE Caroline Greyl, Jean-Louis Poiroux TENDANCES colette SHOPPING Parfums et beauté TOURDUMONDE Spas

Agenda In France and around the world 42 Features Exhibition, anniversary, music, economy Encounter Francis Kurkdjian Shopping Perfume composition What’s hot Bulgari, Givenchy, the flavor of fragrance Traveling with Caroline Greyl, Jean-Louis Poiroux Shop the world colette Shopping Fragrances and body care Globe-trotting Spas

rencontres PORTRAIT Steven Spielberg PORTFOLIO Martin Schoeller

PORTFOLIO Mary Ellen Mark

vivre la planète TENDANCES Nature INFOS VERTES Planète en brèves FONDATION AIR VIETNAM Philippines ACTING FOR LIFE Mexique

Profile Steven Spielberg Portfolio Martin Schoeller Portfolio Mary Ellen Mark Trends Nature Eco-info Around the world Fondation Air France Philippines Acting for Life Mexico

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Jolie Magazine S pri n g 2 0 1 2

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Jolie Magazine S pri n g 2 0 1 2

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Colorful Spring Colorful flowing dresses, denim and short skirts ooze an easy breezy spring feeling as the duo takes in the sights and attractions of the beautiful country from Hanoi to Halong Bay.

Martha Hunt and Michele Ouellet, photographed by Joshua Allen and Thomas Northcut

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time to go to Vietnam “I was raised around parents who believed that things should be made well,” she says, citing her father’s in house glass studio and pottery wheel and her mother’s constant production of clothing and textile art. Her second strength is the focus she applies to the construction: “I’m obsessed with details,” says Giberson. “I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details with a lot of consideration.” Details often become creative springboards for Giberson’s collections: in her Magnification Fall 2005 collection, a single garment detail was magnified to a dramatic scale like the oversized. Hand-making each garment takes its toll. After five years, she

accepted the creative director position at luxury cashmere brand Tse in order to spend more time with her new-born son. Two years at Tse taught Giberson the value of working with the demands of a more commercial brand. She brings these valuable lessons as well as a new business partner, Harriott Lau (former director of Tse’s parent company) to the re-launch of the Tess Giberson collection in Spring of 2010.

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from the bginning until the last moment

These are the words of Lloyd Simmonds, refined maquilleur and creative mind behind Yves Saint Laurent make-up. In fact he has dedicated the next collection to the colors of a night garden, a kaleidoscopical mix of lunar tones with contrasting shimmers: glossy and mat, sparkly and evanescent, shiny and intense. “It is so in nature: shine coexists with mat thus creating plays of light that are always new and unexpected”. And end of summer restyling plays precisely with this contrast of chiaroscuro, creating totally new makeovers. Taking on lace, color and baroque inspired accents, Magdalena really shows her personality in Robbie Spencer’s quirky stylings.

MAGAZINE ™

Hidden Charm

The shoot was very simple, focusing on beauty than styling . Like a uber tall (uber thin) barbie doll .

But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the ĂŠclat.

Suspended between reality and fantasy, dreams are a state of grace and magic in which everything becomes possible. But that, when sleep fails to come, instantly transform into their exact opposite: nightmares. Insomnia is a nightmare that affects ten percent of people. And especially women. Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for radiance and compactness.

Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for radiance and compactness. But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the ĂŠclat.

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m BYE BYE BABE

Accessoires de saison pour un voyage forcément classe.

AUTODIDACTE

Elle a bien étudié les codes preppy avant de les détourner avec élégance.

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Love Classic

“I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details with a lot of consideration.” In 2000, fashion designer Tess Giberson launched her namesake collection to widespread acclaim. In two short years, Giberson won the much coveted Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award and won high praise from Julie Gilhart (then a powerful editor at W magazine), for her modern take on hand-crafted garments. Giberson’s first strength is her love of craft, inherited from her artist parents. “I was raised around parents who believed that things should be made well,” she says, citing her father’s in house glass studio and pottery wheel and her mother’s constant production of clothing and textile art. Her second strength is the focus she applies to the construction: “I’m obsessed with details,” says Giberson. “I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details

with a lot of consideration.” Details often become creative springboards for Giberson’s collections: in her Magnification Fall 2005 collection, a single garment detail was magnified to a dramatic scale like the oversized lapel of an overcoat. Hand-making each garment takes its toll. After five years, she accepted the creative director position at luxury cashmere brand Tse in order to spend more time with her new-born son. Two years at Tse taught Giberson the value of working with the demands of a more commercial brand. She brings these valuable lessons as well as a new business partner, Harriott Lau (former director of Tse’s

MAGAZINE ™

VERY VIETNAM

details,” says Giberson. “I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details with a lot of consideration.” Details often become creative springboards for Giberson’s collections: in her Magnification Fall 2005 collection, a single garment detail was magnified to a dramatic scale like the oversized lapel of an overcoat. Hand-making each garment takes its toll. After five years, she accepted the creative director position at luxury cashmere brand Tse in order to spend more time with her new-born son. Two years at Tse taught Giberson the value of working with the demands of a more commercial brand. She brings these valuable lessons as well as a new business partner, Harriott Lau (former director of Tse’s parent company) to the re-launch of the Tess Giberson collection in Spring of 2010. In this incarnation, Giberson

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marries her love of design details, finish and quality with a strategic business objective to create clothes that are “the best design, the best quality, at the best prices” in the contemporary market. Says Giberson, “it’s not enough just to be doing one of those anymore, you need to provide all three to be competitive.”

With the Spring 2012 line about to show in NYC’s fashion week, Giberson showed Theme parts of her latest construction preoccupation, superimposition, and showed us her tulle shirts with cashmere panels overlaid on the chest and skirts with lasercut lines that expose the skin underneath. We can’t wait to see the rest.

“I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details with a lot of consideration.”

collection, a single garment detail was magnified to a dramatic scale like the oversized lapel of an overcoat.

In 2000, fashion designer Tess Giberson launched her namesake collection to widespread acclaim. In two short years, Giberson won the much-coveted Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award and won high praise from Julie Gilhart (then a powerful editor at W magazine), for her modern take on hand crafted garments.

Hand-making each garment takes its toll. After five years, she accepted the creative director position at luxury cashmere brand Tse in order to spend more time with her new-born son. Two years at Tse taught Giberson the value of working with the demands of a more commercial brand.

Giberson’s first strength is her love of craft, inherited from her artist parents. “I was raised around parents who believed that things should be made well,” she says, citing her father’s in-house glass studio and pottery wheel and her mother’s constant production of clothing and textile art. Her second strength is the focus she applies to the construction: “I’m obsessed with details,” says Giberson. “I like to take classic shapes but play off of that and treat all of the details with a lot of consideration.” Details often become creative springboards for Giberson’s collections: in her Magnification Fall 2005

She brings these valuable lessons as well as a new business partner, Harriott Lau (former director of Tse’s parent company) to the re-launch of the Tess Giberson collection in Spring of 2010. In this incarnation, Giberson marries her love of design details, finish and quality with a strategic business objective to create clothes that are “the best design, the best quality, at the best prices” in the contemporary market. Says Giberson, “it’s not enough just to be doing one of those anymore, you need to provide all three to be competitive.”

MAGAZINE ™

Victoire/ BEAUTY Collection

Jolie Magazine S pri n g 2 0 1 2

The

Vietnam Long long time ago

Photography: Laura Cammarata Retouching: Lee Huy Styling: Silvana Rosano Make Up: Adriana Tedeschi Hair: Gaetano Pusanti Model: Veronica Pasta

MAGAZINE â&#x201E;˘

“

VIetnam places is very, very beautyful”

”

™

“ Simply VIETNAM ” The shoot was very simple, focusing on beauty than styling . Like a uber tall (uber thin) barbie doll . Suspended between reality and fantasy, dreams are a state of grace and magic in which everything becomes possible. But that, when sleep fails to come, instantly transform into their exact opposite: nightmares. Insomnia is a nightmare that affects ten percent of people. And especially women. Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for radiance and compactness. But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the éclat. Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for radiance and compactness. But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the éclat.

MAGAZINE ™

HIDDEN VIETNAM These are the words of Lloyd Simmonds, refined maquilleur and creative mind behind Yves Saint Laurent make-up. In fact he has dedicated the next collection to the colors of a night garden, a kaleidoscopical mix of lunar tones with contrasting shimmers: glossy and mat, sparkly and evanescent, shiny and intense. “It is so in nature: shine coexists with mat thus creating plays of light that are always new and unexpected”. And end of summer restyling plays precisely with this contrast of chiaroscuro, creating totally new makeovers. Taking on lace, color and baroque inspired accents, Magdalena really shows her personality in Robbie Spencer’s quirky stylings. These are the words of Lloyd Simmonds, refined maquilleur and creative mind behind Yves Saint Laurent make-up. In fact he has dedicated the next collection to the colors of a night garden, a kaleidoscopical mix of lunar tones with contrasting shimmers: glossy and mat, sparkly

MAGAZINE ™

It’s tiring to climb up the top of Small Mountain (Núi Nh) but once you’re there, you can not only see the largest statue of Jesus Christ in Asia but also the giant cannons and a panoramic view of this city. That’s worth the sweat, isn’t it?’ the owner of the hotel where I stayed in Vung Tau said when seeing that I was hesitant to hike up to the top of the mountain. Vung Tau city is 125 km northeast of Saigon.

Leaving the centre of Vung Tau city and following Halong Street on the coast line about two kilometres, I reached the foot of Small Mountain. Hiking on the stone steps sandwiched by two lines of frangipani trees booming with white flowers, I saw statues, placed every 100 metres, depicting classic scenes from the Bible of Christianity. The 4-metre-wide path is very steep. Walking about 200 metres more, I encountered a dome filled with many benches inside for visitors to rest. After 20 minutes of hiking and enjoying the immense blue sky above and the deep blue sea below, I had conquered a kilometre of winding stairs, which put me 170 metres above sea level. The top of Small Mountain is fairly flat with an area of 1.2 ha covered with hundreds of stone benches beneath old trees, which are bare due to the sunlight of the dry season. At the centre of these benches is the lofty statue of Jesus Christ standing in an upright position with arms outstretched above two massive old cannons, which have been recognized as ‘national historic relics’ by the government. Adjacent to the statue is a beverage counter. According to a document issued by Tourist Information and Promotion Centre of Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province on tourist sites surveyed by the province’s tourism and culture officials in 2012 [the document was retrieved from www.bariavungtau.com.vn 4, April, 2013], the statue construction began in 1974 and completed in 1994. In 2011, the chief priest of Vung Tau city, Tran Van Huyen, told the Today’s Knowledge magazine that ‘The statue is 25 metres in height and it pedestal is seven metres high.’ In 2012, the Asia Book of Records recognized it as the largest statue of Jesus Christ in Asia. The pedestal of the statue is a rectangular platform whose four walls are carved with four large bas-reliefs illustrating classic references to Jesus Christ. Inside, the hollow statue has an area of about 50 square metres used to display more than 50 oil paintings describing the activities of Jesus and many photos telling about the statue’s construction. Following the spiral staircase around the heart of the statue, I climbed up to its shoulders. From there, I poked my head out to have a panoramic view of Vung Tau city. At the sides of the statue are two cannons in two concrete block houses, which look like two four-ton elephants kneeling with their long trunks trumpeting the sea.and the main floor of the auditorium. A corridor led to the toilets.n According to the above-mentioned document, there are 15 cannons arranged at different heights on Small Mountain. On nearby Big Mountain, there is an artillery array of six cannons with 240mm calibre, located at an altitude of 100 metres above sea level. They were installed in 1885 by the French. There is a notice board at the gate at the beginning of the path to the Small Mountain’s top saying that the opening time is from 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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45 It’s tiring to climb up the top of Small Mountain (Núi Nh) but once you’re there, you can not only see the largest statue of Jesus Christ in Asia but also the giant cannons and a panoramic view of this city. That’s worth the sweat, isn’t it?’ the owner of the hotel where I stayed in Vung Tau said when seeing that I was hesitant to hike up to the top of the mountain. Vung Tau city is 125 km northeast of Saigon.

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Hanoi H

Hanoi “

Hanoi, Hanoi. The place we love, the place we live. The place of us... “

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Just as I stepped off the train at five in the morning, my friend greeted me at the Hanoi station and whispered enticingly, ‘At mid day, let’s go drinking with the whole gang! I’ve already called them for a rendezvous.’ I was taken aback, ‘Isn’t there a regulation forbidding the drinking of beer and alcohol during working hours and the noontime siesta?’ My friend smiled and winked, ‘It’ll be a long time before such a ban’s enforced.’ In March 2012, the government’s Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc directed the localities and divisions to develop a series of solutions to reduce traffic accidents. Among them was the ban on cadres consuming alcohol during the noontime siesta. This so-called prohibition immediately generated dissenting reactions. My friend, a civil servant in Hanoi City, posed a question, ‘According to that regulation, from now on, if government civil servants like me want to entertain guests, then are we supposed to just go in the afternoon?’ Hearing that, my friend’s wife looked askance at her husband and gave a prolonged sigh, ‘How miserable for wives! That means that from now on husbands will have another reason not to eat dinner at home,’ she said. Another friend cheered when he heard the regulation, ‘Cadres and civil servants are forbidden to drink beer and alcohol in the mornings or during siesta.’ His reason: ‘Once, I went to an agency in Cau Giay District. It was about 3 p.m., yet the face of cadre sitting behind the reception desk still glowed red and his breath reeked with booze. After checking the seven or eight documents that I presented him, he totally forgot everything and had to ask me all over from the beginning.’ The friend suggested that if there is to be such a prohibition, then it should go further to forbid ‘eating breakfast during working hours’. Since many cadres, after eating breakfast, go on to add ‘coffee and pickled eggplant’, each time it’s not until 9.30-10 a.m. that they finally head back to the agency.

A businessman asserted, ‘In Vietnam, especially in Hanoi, without drinking it’s impossible to do work with partners. Tippling wastes a lot of my time and wears me out. Moreover, it carries with it latent potential dangers.’ ‘However, for the sake of my work and to show respect, I cannot refuse. Now that the government has issued such a prohibition, I’m glad since it will create a valid reason to refuse without insulting my boss, friends or partners,’ he continued. A friend of mine, a true Hanoian, said, full of pride, that siesta drinking is a unique feature of Hanoian ‘culture’; just as ‘Western Vietnamese’, as soon as one wakes up and opens one’s eyes, are seen dozing

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“

Hanoi, Hanoi. The place we love, the place we live. The place of us... “

off from booze, while ‘Saigonese’ drink in the evenings, quite possibly all the way up to the second or third watch of the night. But here, I’ll just speak of the ‘tippling side dishes’. Unlike Hue people, for whom ‘tippling side dishes’ often means gossip about girls and boasting, or Southerners, for whom it means bantering about all things from the skies above to the depths of the sea, for Hanoians ‘tippling side dishes’ typically centre on tales of agencies or bad-mouthing leaders. The first time that I drank during siesta with Hanoians, I couldn’t hide my shock when, for two hours on end, a dozen or so men at the table dished about their agency and the sins of their boss, along with the sort of stories, circumstances, and language that I could never have imagined even in my dreams. Although I found listening to them interesting one, two, or three times, by the fourth I got tired of it. I spoke up as a ‘village outsider’, I request that you stop – don’t talk about the agency or badmouth your leaders anymore. From now on, anyone who does will be fined VND100,000.’ Right away, one of them, as soon as he was reminded, stood up and pulled out 10 VND100,000 bills from his wallet, saying ‘I accept ten punishments so that I may let my 51 mouth go off to my heart’s content.’ I extended my hand and accepted his defeat. On days when stories about the agency and badmouthing the boss get old, Hanoians’ ‘new side dish’ becomes politics. ‘Do you know?’ a man sitting across from me said, his face suddenly becoming stern. Then came a series of ‘news’ about minister A and deputy minister C along with a concatenation of bizarre related stories that he spouted as though he were a family member of the individuals in question or at least a leader with the calibre of a massive organization. That’s how it went on as I gaped, swallowing this story and the next. Seeing that, my friend sitting next to me patted my shoulder and whispered, ‘Just drink. Don’t listen to that guy. If you don’t believe him, in just a bit, when we go back, sit down with the old woman who sells refreshments in front of our agency and check it out.’ Why is it that, during siesta, Hanoians don’t tell funny stories or talk about girls, or even speak ill of their wives, but rather speak entirely about the agencies, the leaders, politics and distant international affairs?

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I asked all of the people I knew. Everyone just said ‘Because Hanoians like to…,’ but as for the reason that Hanoians have such a predilection, none could explain. Nevertheless, in regards to badmouthing leaders, I received an interesting answer: In all three regions –¬ North, South and Central – how many are really content with their agencies, content with the management or their boss’s treatment? But, perhaps, since Hanoians are ‘deferential’, they are afraid, and so in meetings they always glance at each other, leaving what needs to be said unspoken. Hence, they become frustrated. And when frustration can no longer be pent up, it’s necessary to go out to the bars and drink to let loose the constriction; that’s all. Since the day that Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc demanded that cadres not drink alcohol in the mornings and at noontime, according to what we recorded, the state of drinking in the mornings and at noontime in Hanoi still has not changed at all relative to before. With a wink, my friend doubted the plausibility of the prohibition, ‘They may ban drinking, but what will happen to them if the people, cadres, and civil servants continue to drink booze? Who will monitor it? Who will handle it, and how?’ As of now, these remain open-ended questions. ‘The prohibition, its plausibility, and its assimilation into life will eventually be just like the previous ban on smoking in public places and nothing more. Hanoi’s civil servants have and are drinking booze as they have always done for so many years before. The number of traffic accidents in our country continues to rise from one year to the next,’ my friend sighed.

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The shoot was very simple, focusing on beauty than styling . Like a uber tall (uber thin) barbie doll . Suspended between reality and fantasy, dreams are a state of grace and magic in which everything becomes possible. But that, when sleep fails to come, instantly transform into their exact opposite: nightmares. Insomnia is a nightmare that affects ten percent of people. And especially women. Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for

radiance and compactness. But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the éclat. Obviously this has an immediate effect on the skin, compromising those indispensable mechanisms of cellular regeneration whom we have to thank for radiance and compactness. But the psycho-physical repercussions of sleeping little and badly overshadow the éclat.

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CHARM

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