Enjoying Kyloe Sunshine Bad Company (front) Swan Wall Direct (Background)
Sister KyloeBigWoods Bouldering
Northumberland
KYLOE WOODS LOCATION
Edinburgh
A1
B6353
Lowick
A6091
Berwick upon Tweed Kyloe in the woods
A1 A68
Alnwick
A7 A696
Newcastle
A69
Carlisle A1
Location: Use www.betaguides.com to find Kyloe Woods, zoom out to see the parking Icon, it can be found about 1km to the west of the crag. click on the Icon then fill in your home town, this will give you a route plan, print out the directions and off you go.
KYLOE WOODS MAP
1 Kilometre
North
Kyloe Out
Whin Crag
Limited Parking
V1 Shepherdskirk Boulders
Black Heddon Boulder
Kyloe in
3 1
2
5 7
4 6
8
Kyloe in the woods Central Wall Grid Ref: NU 045 388 Walk in: 15mins Kyloe in the woods is a very mystical bouldering venue, a true right of passage place to go. As you tick a harder problem you some how feel you have earned some respect from the crag! even if you never repeat the problem. The Central section has held the attention of the strongest and most dedicated of boulderers in the UK, John Earl, Steve Blake, Dave Cuthbertson, Malcolm Smith. The climbing is three star and the sequences needed to succeed on the problems can be difficult to work out, drawing you back to the woods for more.
Problems Left to Right 1: Bad Finger SS 6a A Great introduction to Kyloe woods, strong fingers and good technique are needed, on the pockets and slopers. 2: Not Bad SS 6b+ Using only pockets, climb the bulge to the break. 3: Bad Company SS 6a From a good ledge climb via pockets to the flake the break, a Kyloe classic 4: Monk Life 8b+ Gain the small pocket and the Hula Hoop, thrust up to crimps at the thin break, keeping your composure for the strong moves to the good ledge higher up.
5: Monty Pythons Direct 6b+ After choosing the best of a dozen pockets, gain the bulge and slap right onto the sloping rail, move up leftward, to a crimp, lay off or jam to the jug. Perfect! 6: Monty Pythons SS 7a For the right hand, gain the mono then finish as above, or gain the sloping side pull for a long slap. (As shown in pic) 7: Monty Pythons Flying Circus Just the using the sloping crack. The hard bottom section is a jamming test piece, rarely repeated. 8: Crouching Tiger Very Satisfying, Using the left side of the crack only, head for the large pocket
9:1
19
10
9
11
9: Cubby’s Lip 7b+ Traverse the lip, Start in the crack and head right wards, finish on Pearler 9:1 SS 6a The sit start is 6a under the arete, eliminate as you like on the top out 10: Pearler 5+ Jam the slanting crack, until it splits then climb to the break 11: Pearler SS 6a As above from a sitting start 12: Jocks 6c Classic side pulls and undercuts will gain you a tick, but get your feet right for the long reach! 13: Jocks SS 7a As above from a sitting start 14: Yorkshireman 7b+ An opposing hand camming test piece, a fine sequence of moves all the way, powerful! 15: Thin Hand Special 5+ Excellent jamming to the break
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V1
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16: Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy Standing on the block, gain the higher flake via small holds, and well balanced footwork, finish at the break. 17: Hitchhikers Direct SS From small pockets, power your way to the flake, keep composed up to the flake, finish on the break. 18: The Rack Direct SS 7c+ Start in the Recess reach out right to the very sharp pockets and holds, power your way right wards, to the end of the crack, Painful! 19: Leviathan 8b+ This is a monster of a traverse Starting to the left of Badfinger, head right across the full wall, crossing through all the test pieces on the wall, repeating some of the difficult moves on the classics. The entire sequence of moves will test your stamina and endurance to the Limit as it finishes up The Rack Direct (If if was not already hard enough, no jamming is allowed and no foot ledge under Monty Python’s)
Nick Ward SS Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy 7c+
Aido Holt Monty Python SS