Treasures of Culpeper - Spring/Summer 2019 by InsideNoVa

FOOD TRUCK TOUR

The rich culture of Culpeper’s Hispanic food trucks 10

LOCAL FLAVOR In-depth look at the culinary gems of Culpeper, such as:

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Spring/Summer 2019

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Culpeper Times 206 S. Main St., Suite 301 Culpeper, VA 22701 culpepertimes.com 540.812.2282 Dennis Brack President Tom Spargur tom@piedmontpub.com Publisher/Group Sales Director Jim Kelly jim@piedmontpub.com Audra Dickey audra@piedmontpub.com Jeff Say Editor Jay Ford Creative Services Director Primary Cover Artwork Ian Chini Copyright ©2019 by Culpeper Times All Rights Reserved. Information in this magazine is as correct as possible at press time but is subject to change. Reproduction of any photographs, maps, illustrations or written material without prior consent by the copyright holder is prohibited.

Treasures in February: Culpeper is a ‘foodie’ town I like food. I’ve always joked that was why I got into the journalism business - was for all the banquets, luncheons and meals that came with the job. I vividly remember starting out as a cub reporter, barely making enough to pay for a roof over my head and going to caterered events that I’d cover, sneaking rolls out in my camera bag. Taking pity on me, the caterer would often sneak me a doggie bag - that represented my meal for the week. That experience kindled a newfound respect for the members of the food industry - they want people to enjoy the dishes they make and they have an empathy about them that is unique to their craft. When we started to discuss this issues’ theme, food was an easy choice for me. Culpeper is growing, but it still has that smalltown feel. For a town as small as Culpeper to have the food offering it does has always astounded me. Sure, everyone is aware of the classics - It’s About Thyme, Foti’s, Grill 309 and others, and we couldn’t write a food issue without visiting them. But it’s the smaller places, the Hispanic Food

THE FINAL SAY Jeff Say

Trucks, Hazel River Inn and Albana’s Taverna that intrigued me. The Hispanic Food Truck tour is a project I’ve been wanting to do for quite some time - to highlight the trucks that I drove by but was too afraid to stop in and visit. I learned that I should never be afraid to try new food and make new friends. Everyone was welcoming and fed our crew - myself, photographer Ian Chini and intrepreters Marilyn Dunphy and Maria Pastrana - as much food as they could hand us. We learned about a different culture through their food - which is maybe the easiest, and tastiest, way to do so. I will admit, we didn’t get everywhere. There are so many great food locations in Culpeper that I’m fulling expecting someone very passionate about their favorite location to call yelling at me that missed something. I’m fully aware. I have a list - that is growing almost daily - of locations that we will hit for our August edition of Treasures. It might not be the main theme, but food in Culpeper is a treasure - and it’s a hunt I’m not finished with yet. So please, join us on a tour of some of our favorite food stops in Culpeper - prepare your stomachs and taste buds, loosen your belt and get ready for a delicious dive into what makes Culpeper a “town for foodies.”

Table of Contents Hazel River Inn Bed and Breakfast celebrates 25 years............................................................ 4 It’s About Thyme anchors downtown .......................................................................................... 9 Take a tour of Culpeper’s Hispanic food trucks.........................................................................10 Grill 309: Where everybody knows your name ..........................................................................14 Foti’s Restaurant is a good neighbor............................................................................................16 Flavor on Main harkens to a simpler time...................................................................................18

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Treasures of Culpeper | Spring/Summer 2019 | 3

Hazel River Inn Bed and Breakfast celebrates silver anniversary

Karen and Peter Stogbuchner welcome neighbors into their home

By Jeff Say t’s like sitting down with friends when you visit the Chef ’s Table at the Hazel River Inn Bed and Breakfast. For Karen and Peter Stogbuchner, many of the guests that visit are either friends they’ve made when they owned the Hazel River Inn in Culpeper, or they quickly become friends after visiting the intimate setting along Route 729 on Eggbornsville Road. Nestled inside their home, the couple have run the Bed and Breakfast for as long as they’ve been married - 25 years. Celebrating the silver anniversary of their wedding and the restaurant - the couple recently sat down to reflect on their now tranquil life, the hustle and bustle of owning a restaurant and what it means to invite people into their home to share their passion. For 16 of those 25 years, the couple ran the Hazel River Inn and Rathskeller, routinely serving hundreds on any given night in downtown Culpeper. Wanting to slow down, they sold the business about three years ago and refocused on the Bed and Breakfast and

PHOTO BY IAN CHINI

Peter (left) and Karen Stogbuchner are celebrating 25 years of operating the Hazel River Inn Bed and Breakfast and Chef’s Table.

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Celebrating 25 Years! Please join us any night for a 3 course meal with local meats & produce! Reservations are required at “The Table”, but come casual, & enjoy a relaxing evening away from it all. Through 2019, 25th of every month – 3 Course Meal: $25 11227 Eggbornsville Rd, Culpeper, VA • 540.937.5854 • hazelriverinn.com

4 | Spring/Summer 2019 | Treasures of Culpeper

the Chef ’s Table - a farm to table concept that is truly Peter’s passion. To listen to the German native speak about his dishes is like listening to a painter talk about his masterpieces. Each step of the recipe is a stroke of the brush, from the marinade all the way to the last sprig of thyme at the end result. It’s that dedication to detail that the Stogbuchners are able to address at the Chef ’s Table. “There’s a lot more contact, it’s like you make friends in the matter of an evening,” Karen said. “We can really cater to our customers.” The menu is ever changing, offering three and four course meals with what is in season. Karen grows much of the produce they need in the backyard. Tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash and cucumbers are prevalent in the summer - perfectly complimenting Peter’s featured dishes which often include wild game and smoked meats. “We build it (the menu) around what is available in the market, from the farmers,” Peter said. Karen, a horticulture major in college, loves the opportunity to tend to her garden and often finds Peter hunting for delicacies he can offer. “He likes to steal the squash blossoms and stuff them,” Karen said. “Then you never get the squash. We battle over the squash.” “They are so nice and tender and you have to snag them and stuff them right there,” Peter said. It’s that type of witty back and forth visitors can expect when they visit the chef ’s table - that and delicious food. While the main business is a bed and breakfast - and most of the customers who stay there eat there - many of the visitors to the Chef ’s Table come from in town. They can seat as many as 15-20 people, but on occasion have done as few as two. They’ll serve dinner any day of the week, provided you have a reservation. “They’ll walk in and be like ‘gasp, it’s just us,’ and I’ll say that’s just fine,” Karen said.

It’s that intimate setting that Peter loves. After serving hundreds a night at the Hazel River Inn, it can be a relaxing experience to provide a lavish dinner for a couple or two. “We want to pay attention to detail and otherwise we become the Hazel River Inn downtown again,” Peter said. “(We like) Being able to make a tasting kitchen, where people can taste new and innovative dishes which come out. I also have the time to do that. At the restaurant things had to work I didn’t have as much time to pay attention to detail as I have here.” Three course meals at the Chef ’s Table run $42, and visitors can bring their own wine or craft beer to sip along with the meal. For the 25th anniversary, they’re offering a special on the 25th of the month

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through 2019, a three-course menu for $25. “It was my partner in life and in business that came up with that idea,” Peter said proudly. Getting married can be daunting enough, but the Stogbuchners added to that difficulty by opening a business the same year. Luckily, they had family to take care of part of the proceedings. “Thankfully we didn’t have to plan our wedding, we just had to show up,” Karen said. “We just showed up and had fun. We were very lucky. My mom and sister planned everything. We could just concentrate on the business.” “It was exciting,” Peter said. “We could move out to the country, open a bed and breakfast and live happily ever after.” They moved to Culpeper in 1993 and married and opened the bed and breakfast in 1994. What have they learned in those 25 years? “It’s just as much fun now, if not more so,” Karen said. “Now I kind of know what I’m doing.” Peter relished the opportunity to serve food on a smaller scale. Many of the dishes are familiar to customers who used to frequent the Hazel River Inn, while others are experimental. Favorites like his game dishes, a sage and blackberry marinated chicken and hossenfeffer are still available - along with newer ideas such as the mushroom stuffed squash blossoms. Peter’s German heritage shines through, and often they’ll have people request German cuisine. “That’s the nice thing to be able to, if someone says ‘I love this,’ he can create a whole menu around it,” Karen said. That attention to detail is what the couple love about the Chef ’s Table and the bed and breakfast - being able to focus entirely on that combination is what led them to selling the Hazel River Inn. “There’s so much work involved in a bed and breakfast, I don’t

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know how we did all three (the bed and breakfast, restaurant and banquet hall),” Karen said. “How did we manage it and stay married?” Peter asked with a laugh. Their love shines through - with Peter constantly marveling at his wife who keeps everything even keeled while he is able to whip up delicacies. Being able to share that side of their life and love with visitors is what makes the Chef ’s Table special. “I want them to feel like they are coming for a dinner party,” Karen said. “I want them to feel like they are coming to a friends house and are having a good meal.” Good meals lead to good friends and has helped them meet their neighbors over the years. “We had two couples come by the other weekend and they said they’ve lived here for 40 years and they’ve been driving by us for 25 years and they just never thought to stop,” Karen said. “They were thrilled and it was just so nice to meet our neighbors.” In 25 years, something they’ve learned is people just want an opportunity to slow down, meet each other and share an experience. “What I’ve learned the most is that there are really kind people in the world,” Karen said. “That sounds sappy, but people that come here are so nice. In the restaurant setting people came hungry. Here, they are on vacation, they have time and it’s a whole different feel. People are truly, truly nice. You don’t find that everywhere.” “It’s more satisfying, you get more gratification from it,” Peter said. “You get more feedback. We’ve made some real nice friends as well. Food is one of my favorite subjects to talk about.” To talk with Peter, share his passion and taste his delicious food, call 540-937-5854 for reservations.

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Grass Rootes is like family By Jeff Say ndrew Ferlazzo welcomes everyone at Grass Rootes like they’re old friends - mostly because they are. A veteran of the Culpeper restaurant business, many may remember Ferlazzo from Kirsten’s - which he owned and operated from 2002 to 2005. Two and a half years ago he opened Grassrootes - in the old Hazel River Inn location. Since then, he’s become another pinnacle in the success of Culpeper’s food industry. How did Culpeper welcome him back? “With open arms, support and love,” Ferlazzo said. Offering locally sourced food prepared by chefs Charlene and Colt Drumheller, the menu hasn’t changed much since they’ve opened but they’ve evolved, Ferlazzo said. What’s been popular in the winter months is a more heartier fare, he said. Big steaks, venison stew, osso bucco, and a beef wellington he can’t keep on the menu is what’s hot now in the cold months. Not only has the landscape of Culpeper changed since he was first in the restaurant business, so has the ability to interact with your customers online. When he first started, Facebook was in its infancy and Twitter hadn’t even launched. “That dates me a bit,” Ferlazzo said with a laugh. Now, he’s able to send out his special menus and other items to his guests on Facebook. “There’s so many positive applications to Facebook and Instagram,” Ferlazzo said. “The coverage is incredible. We blast out the specials of the week, what’s going on with the music and hits the local five counties.” Grass Rootes offers lives bands Thursday, Friday and Saturday and

that ambiance is one item that keeps drawing people back in and adds to Culpeper’s nightlife. “That balance between dining room and bar is important,” Ferlazzo said. “When they are playing inside we tone it down considerably, when we move out to the back deck it’s a little more fun - we take it up a few notches.” Looking around Grassrootes dining room, the local influence is palatable. Far Gohn and Beer Hound Brewery glasses adorn the table, locals from other restaurants pop their head in to chat and the sense of community is strong. “That’s fun, to help expose other locals,” Ferlazzo said. “We help each other out. If you’re out of something, we share. It’s very cool.” Grass Rootes is located at 198 E. Davis Street, Culpeper. Visit www. grassrootesculpeper.com

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s About Thyme:

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By Jeff Say Sunday, August 2, 2015 You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think about Culpeper food without Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s About Thyme. Started in 1996 by John Yarnall, featuring the now iconic mural painted by Davide Rodoquino - the restaurant quickly became a haven for foodies from all over the East Coast. Now 23 years later, the Thyme franchise has grown to include the Thyme Market and Copper Fish Seafood restaurant, all nestled close together each other along 128-14tometrist may recommend regular Dr. Press was the developer of the them away! Contributed Article East Davis Street. testing forand glaucoma, which comes downcan to.â&#x20AC;? first tinted, soft contact lens called Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a family affair as well, as Yarnall is joined by his wife Connie Whether you need a Custom Eyes in 1980. in Healicensed be done through an eye pressure At Eye Care of Virginia, ourtheir op- European fusion The beauty of owning three restaurants row is that it truly offers daughter Joclyn in kitchen. Together they bring exam, are interested the technology to Bausch and exam. Glaucoma something is the second tometrist in Culpeper takesthethe for everyone. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re interested in a filet mignon - Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sorAbout style dishes to life, sharing their creations with Culpeper community. upand their facilities lenses that c leadingafter cause in that. the IfLomb Thyme has youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re and in a set hurry just want a in quickcontact bit, the Thyme time to get to know each in patient Joclyn originally started working summers the restaurant sheof blindness Rochester and Waterford, Ireland. color it has cannot Market delicious brick oven pizzas - on Mondays theyyour starteye at just $5 like Acu and their eye United graduated high school, beforeunique going tovision collegeand for criminal justiceStates and and while pizza. Finally, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the mood for fresh fish, to Copper it. Colors, d company was sold in 1986 andFish Air has Optix behome prevented if it is per diagnosed and ifHis care By understanding forensic chemistry. All needs. the while, she felt a callingyour to come and join down the street and at other restaurants area, that Revlon which is now owned in bythetative to contact us. W successfully eye care history, personal medical treated early, it can beLooking the family business. same sentiment rings true. Novartis. local eye care professio â&#x20AC;&#x153;I ran away from the restaurant at first andhistory, then camecontrolled. back to it,â&#x20AC;? she history, and family vision â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everything in town compliments each other,â&#x20AC;? Joclyn said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everyone said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sometimes we youare have to to really realize what able better tailor ouryou ser-want to do is what bringshas something the downtown, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you want to do, not justto your parents Wetocan also tell you Dr. to Press and the Eye Care of we like Dr. Miles W. Press been unique vices meet yourdecision.â&#x20AC;? specific vision a whole.â&#x20AC;? She brings her own unique to the business, complimenting the greaterencourage, Virginiaas team stay up to date on a candidate for, or if y serving the Culpeper the andcommunity needs. Thisflair includes anticipatstyles of her parents ing well. potential eye care and vision King George communities for the latest advances in eye health learn more about LAS â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think we eachproblems as familybefore members put something of ourselves,â&#x20AC;? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s About Thymeand is located 128 E. Davis Street, Culpeper. www. vision te our Visit Culpeper visionatcare, ensuring our Culsome time now. HeÂ&#x2020;has practiced they develop. Forin it Joclyn said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I justexample, like to eat, why I likeofto your cook - thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s whatfour it decades thymeinfo.com for over as an Op- peper patients receive the most to help. Our one-on-on if thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one or more parents or grandparents has been tometrist. Licensed by the state of progressive vision care and oppor- to optometry makes Dr diagnosed with glaucoma, you are Virginia to practice optometry, Dr. tunities currently available. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Eye Care of Virgini at increased risk for potentially Pressâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s background includes anat- new in contact lenses, you ask? We providers of choice fo omy, biochemistry, and physiolo- now have one day, multifocal con- George and Culpeper developing this condition. gy, uniquely qualifying him to di- tact lenses available for our dry- ties. Call us in Culpep African Americans over the age agnose a wide range of eye health eyed patients. These astigmatic 825-3937 and in King Welcoming New Former lenses are nowand available for Patients you (540) 663-3937, or sched of 40 and Hispanics over the age of issues, including the diagnosis 60 are also at increased risk. If you of glaucoma, macular degenera- to use whenever you choose. 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10 | Spring/Summer 2019 | Treasures of Culpeper

6,000 Feet

Culpeper Hispanic food truck tour Taco VIP calls Culpeper ‘ home’ By Jeff Say edro Navarette loves to cook. Stop out at Taco VIP along Route 3, just passed the intersection with Route 15 and Navarette and his wife Guadalupe will greet you with a smile and plenty of delicious Mexican specialties. The family moved to Culpeper in 2003 from California and opened VIP Tacos in 2017 - and they’ve quickly become a hit. It’s Pedro’s passion that shines through, as he quickly gets to work on the grill behind him as soon as a customer pulls up. “I just like to cook, that’s more important in this kind of business,” Pedro said. “And because he wants to be his own boss,” Guadalupe said with a laugh. Originally from Mexico City, Pedro worked in Mexican Taquerias in California before moving to Culpeper. He’s taken that expertise and the knowledge of the culture to create something truly unique and delicious at Taco VIP . As soon as you walk up to the food truck, which they move every night from the lot owned by Jesse Wise, you see the item at the top of the menu the “super mega burrito.” The size of my arm, I wondered how many the monstrosity feeds. “If you’re not a big eater it will feed probably four people,” Guadalupe said. Our crew of photographer Ian Chini, interpreters Marilyn Dunphy and Maria Pastrana quickly chose the super mega burrito with chicken and steak and Pedro went to work crafting this masterpiece of a stuffed tortilla. Guadalupe smiled as her husband happily chopped away in the back, concetrating on his labor of love. “He has his own taste, his own flavor,” Guadalupe said. That sets Taco VIP apart, that and the customer service. A day before our visit, it was cold - so on the menu Guadalupe added hot cinnamon tea to warm up the customers who stopped by. It’s a unique offering that intrigued Marilyn. Sadly, the day we went it was back to the 50s (go figure, Culpeper weather) but the next cold, snowy day, I’m trying it. Guadalupe’s warm personality shines through as soon as you walk up to the truck and that has led to a lot of regulars. “We always give nice customer service, we know a lot of them,” Guadalupe said. “We have orders from some people that we already know what they want.” They get a diverse clientele - doctors, constructions workers, office workers - and they all rave about the flavors. We found out why.

The super mega burrito came out - probably twice the length of my oneyear-old daughter. Wrapped in aluminum foil, it looked intimidating. Pedro has a deal where if you manage to eat the super mega burrito in less than 10 minutes with a family, you don’t pay. No one has ever done it. Neither could we. I’m not sure I would want to race through the rolled perfection, however. In addition to the chicken and steak we ordered, the burrito includes ham, hot dog sausage, beans and rice. We had enough to package up and take home - it’s that big. For those who are not as adventurous, he also just has a super burrito while still delicious is simply not the size of my arm. Pedro said other favorites include fajitas, tortas and tacos. He makes everything to order, so customers can make the tacos as unique as they would like - tripe and cow tongue are some of the special meats customers can add. “At the beginning we had some trouble finding some of the meats we have,” Guadalupe said. “Not all markets have the tripe or the cow tongue here.” It’s those unique offerings that have endeaded VIP Tacos to Culpeper, their vibrant colors on the black trailer visible at last year’s Culpeper Fiesta - the first the couple attended as a business. It was a huge success and helped push their visibility. For them, sharing their food with their neighbors is what is important. “My kids love it here (three daughters and a son), they don’t want to move anywhere else, they just love their little town,” Guadalupe said. Often, after school, the kids can be seen helping out. “They are proud of their daddy,” Guadalupe said. And I’m sure they’d be proud of whoever finishes that super mega burrito.

Taqueria Ebenezer offers call ahead orders

aqueria Ebenezer opened at 110 West Evans Street in April. Almost a year later, they’re thriving with a Mexican style menu that highlights tacos, gorditas, empanadas and pupusas. Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., they have a Facebook page and are popular because customers can call in their orders at 301-710-3544 and pick them up. Because of that, dinner is the busiest time of the day - as folks look to pick up something quick and tasty for supper. Everything is handmade - and that has led to a lot of word of mouth about their offerings.

Treasures of Culpeper | Spring/Summer 2019 | 11

La Chiapenca showcases culture through food

By Jeff Say

a Chiapaneca is busy. Pulling up the food truck at 15367 Brandy Road at 2:30 p.m., we thought we’d be after the lunch rush and before people started thinking about dinner. We were wrong. A steady stream of people stopped for homemade tacos, gorditas, sopas, quesadillas and more during the time we spent there - and all raved about the food. “I lived in East LA, these tacos are just like from my childhood,” one customer said, as he sat down at one of the many picnic tables at the location - shaded by little enclosures and strung with lights. Diana Escalante greeted us at the window, her mom Mayoli Melchor started the food truck in April 2016 and it’s quickly grown. Diana is there daily and they employ three others just to keep up with the customers. They started with a now iconic small, red food truck but quickly graduated to the large truck they now have. “We’re just a small family business,” Diana said. “My mom was the one with the idea, we started small and we upgraded. It’s become a local favorite. She started with the big quesadillas but it turned out that the people liked the tacos more.” They originally started in town, but within three months they outgrew that spot. In August 2016 they moved to their current location and the people followed. It’s the food that attracts them. The family, originally from the Chiapas region of Mexico - hence La Chiapaneca - serves authentic mexican cuisine - but with a hint of Americana thrown in. New menu items include loaded cheese fries (topped with steak and they are delicious), and crunchy tacos. Diana said the food truck has been embraced by Hispanics and Americans alike, and they constantly have requests for new food. “When we first started there weren’t a lot of food trucks,” Diana said. “We were one of the first ones that was stable. The town has been very welcoming. We get a lot of American customers. It’s just nice to see them try something different.”

La Pearla living the dream

By Jeff Say

a Pearla stands out. The white food truck sits in the parking lot of Superior New and Used Tires, formerly Corbin Auto Body and according to owner Alex Leiva it attracts a good crowd. Alex said his family has been in Culpeper for nine years and after working in other kitchens, he wanted a chance to be his own boss. “We opened this food truck because we want to feel like a family, to be together all the time,” Alex said. His wife and mom help cook and his cuisine ranges from Salvadoran food (his home country) to some Honduran and hits all the favorites tacos, quesadillas and the most popular, pupusas. Cook Salvadoran food, some Honduran food, tacos and pupusas are most popular Pupusas are a flour tortilla, cheese, pork, beans, cooked on a flat grill and they are one of the main dishes at La Pearla.

12 | Spring/Summer 2019 | Treasures of Culpeper

The large food truck is the main attraction - with tacos, quesadillas, sopes, tortas and more. The sopes, topped with beans, meat and lettuce on a homemade flour tortilla are to die for. Diana said her favorites include the crunch tacos, and the fried plantains. Just to the right of the large truck is the original red truck - which they now use to take around to events and serve drinks and possibly their most popular dish - elotes. They have elote locos - corn on the cob smothered in mayonnaise and topped with chili powder. Also available in a bowl - it’s become a favorite at the Culpeper Fiesta. I’d never had it before until last year - I wasn’t sure what to expect. Mayonnaise? On corn? It’s weird, and messy, but it works oh so well. The smaller trailer also serves homemade drinks - horchata and jamaica. They also have snow cones with homemade flavoring, which includes chunks of the fruit that the juices come from - strawberry, peach, tamarindo, honeydew and mango. They love showing people their culture through their food, which is handmade - Diana said they even boil the beans every morning instead of using beans out of a can. “It started out of love for the food,” Diana said. “The whole family is involved. We wanted a restaurant that was very authentic.” Authentic is what you get at La Chiapaneca - just make sure to grab a napkin when eating the elotes locos! Opened two years ago, Alex said the spot they picked has kept them busy. They’ve learned a few lessons along the way - the changing weather can keep people away and some people’s work schedule will change - but as long as they offer quality food they stay busy. “We’re learning all the time,” Alex said. What are people asking for? “They are asking for more tacos, with cow tongue, carne asada,” Alex said. “I learned from my mom, she’s been cooking so long.” His mom was the inspiration for the name of the truck, as she likes pearls. They’re visible at events, as the truck is mobile and plan to set up at the Culpeper Fiesta this year. Alex said Culpeper has been great to the family. “Everybody is nice,” Alex said.

Antojo Street’s breakfast will start your day right By Jeff Say raving Honduran food for breakfast? Antojo Street has you covered. Nestled in a former used car lot along Old Orange Road, just across the street from Double J’s, the only Honduran food truck in Culpeper is also the only one that serves breakfast. It’s amazing. I’ll admit, I often have a hard time differentiating between the different cultures when it comes to Hispanic cuisine, but Antojo Street makes it simple to understand - this is Honduran food and it’s different than anything else out there. Owner Carla Escalante operates the truck with her mother. They’ve lived in Culpeper for eight years, own land and some cows in the county. Two years ago, she decided to open the food truck and it’s quickly become a beacon for members of the growing Honduran population in Culpeper. “I look at it as a good investment, food always sells,” Carla said through our interpreter Maria Pastrana. Carla excitedly took us through her menu - introducing our crew to dishes many of us had never heard of. The first thing that jumps out at their menu - all made from scratch, Carla proudly notes - is the breakfast. A breakfast dish with chicken, freshly made flour tortillas, cabbage, sauce and green bananas tempts the eye. Desayunos, served with an egg is another hearty breakfast staple. The best seller, however, and my new favorite is the baleadas. Baleadas are a flour tortilla served with black beans, cheese, avocado and beef. Served with Carla’s homemade hot sauce, the dish fills you up and warms your spirit - along with your taste buds. “You should bottle this,” Marilyn yelled over, pointing at the hot sauce. Carla said she’ll package some up for folks when they come. Beside the food truck, which is stationary, is a carport with picnic tables underneath. Late morning and lunchtime, it’s not uncommon to see a diverse cast munching away happily on baleadas. “Other food truckers come and buy the baleadas from us,” Carla said with a laugh, pointing out how popular the dish is. “Everybody

loves it, from the Mexicans now even the Americans are getting into the baleadas.” They also serve Atol de Elote and are well known - again word of mouth is king when it comes to food - among the Honduran population. Is there a large Honduran population in Culpeper? “Si, quite a bit,” Carla said. They’ll have plenty of competition for their breakfast now thankfully I can only eat so many baleadas.

Manny withstands test of time

By Jeff Say anny is the grandfather of Culpeper food trucks. Manny Casillas and his wife Monica Chavez opened Manny’s Tacos & Tortas in January of 2005 and he’s stayed open all this

time. “I wasn’t the first one,” Manny said. “Back when I started there was a lot of construction going on, so there were at least five more going around. I would run through the construction sites behind them and everybody was making good business. As construction faded out, we were the ones that survived.” His route now goes to only factories, but he’s met but a group of eager workers that can’t wait to taste his tacos. “Every place we used to go, people would wave other trucks by and wait for us,” Manny said. “We made a reputation. I’ve managed to make a lot of friends.” He’s become popular at the Culpeper Fiesta. He served tacos at the very first one in May of 2005 and has come back ever since. What’s worked for Manny to make his so successful? He doesn’t fix

what’s not broken. “People ask me why haven’t I changed my menu? This is how I had to figure out how to start, it’s worked, why should I change it?” Manny said. Tacos are the most popular dish, and he’ll often have people ask him to just give them tacos of his choice. His favorite is mixing pork and carne asada, and he’ll often whip those up for the customers who like a surprise. He’s visible on Friday nights, sitting in front of Beer Hound Brewery - and he laughs when he says he’s popular with the town police - they know where the good food is. Treasures of Culpeper | Spring/Summer 2019 | 13

Grill 309 wants to know your name By Jeff Say here everyone knows your name.” It’s the iconic lyric in the theme song from “Cheers,” but it’s also the business model James Laughorn and Brittany Mabrey strive for at Grill 309. The business is celebrating three years at 309 S. Main Street and they’ve quickly become entrenched in the Culpeper food community - making the neighborhood bar a place regulars want to frequent and visitors make a destination. Despite being only in Culpeper for three short years, the business partners have seen the town change. “Everyone has been wonderful,” Laughorn said. “We’ve seen the town evolve since we’ve got here. When we first got here, a lot of places were closed on Sundays and Mondays. We made sure we were going to be accessible seven days a week. It’s not such a sleepy town on those days. I think it opened people’s eyes that there’s enough to go around.” Sunday brunch was one of the more popular offerings at Grill 309 - enough so that they branched out to Saturdays. “I didn’t expect anything to be big as it is as soon as it is,” Laughorn said. “We knew brunch was going to be big, coming from St. Pete (St. Petersburg, Fla.), brunch is what you do,” Mabrey said. “It’s not ‘are you going out for Sunday brunch, it’s where are you going for Sunday brunch?’” “I ran it one Saturday and it was decent, the next Saturday was just crazy,” Laughorn said. While the brunch menu is special, don’t forget about their regular offerings as well. Their donut burger drips with fresh glaze and their double grilled

“W

cheese burger is a lunch and a dinner all in one. Their burger specials on Monday have become a favorite as well. “That gets a really good response,” Laughorn said. “We do Taco Tuesday with mahi mahi and we get a really good response from that.” For brunch, their homemade chicken and waffles with sausage gravy is a crowd pleaser. Those crowds also come in for the fundraisers they host - for the Culpeper

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14 | Spring/Summer 2019 | Treasures of Culpeper

Town Police and SAFE to name a few. “I think it puts a face to your business,” Mabrey said. And putting names with faces is what they want to do. “We’re a neighborhood bar and grill, that’s what I want to be,” Laughorn said. “We want to know people by name. We want people to come in be our neighbors, not just random customers.” Those customers are quick to give feedback, especially when it comes to their extensive beer list. Listening to their clientele and stocking what people are looking for is part of their success. “We get a lot of feedback from clientele as well,” Laughorn said. “Brittany has been excellent about putting together a very diverse beer menu.” “I think something that we’ve hit with that is Culpeper is growing and there are people who are transplants who are from places where craft beer kind of started,” Mabrey said. In addition to craft beer, their outdoor patio has become an attraction - especially when it comes to doggie dining. Many set up outside just so they can be greeted by Tonka, the greyhound. “People will cater their dining to where they can bring Fido tonight,” Mabrey said. That has led to people seeking out Grill 309 - coming to visit all the way from Charlottesville or Richmond. “I felt Culpeper itself was a destination spot, I was more focused on this awesome location and getting visible,” Laughorn said. “We’ve discovered some people will come just for us.”

Piedmont Steakhouse is a rare find

iedmont Steakhouse is all about consistency. Open for seven years at 110 East Cameron Street, the restaurant prides itself on its customer service. How do they achieve that? Consistency, owner Steve Miller said. “We have an incentive programs so servers don’t leave,” Miller said. “Four of my six servers have been here four years - that’s unheard of in this business. When you get a $19.99 good server, we incentivize them with an equity stake to not leave.” -$10 At Piedmont Steakhouse, it’s a foodies dream come true. Succulent steaks stream $ 99 out of the kitchen - Miller’s favorite is a bone-in ribeye. Stanley FatMax The filet mignon is their No. 1 seller, closely followed by the ribeye and crab25' lobster x 1-1/4" Tape Rule 2071439 Limit 5 at this price. cakes at No. 3. Those menu items is what keeps people coming around the block. Tucked in behind Davis Street, the restaurant has thrived while not being front and center. “It’sSALE word $169.99 Milwauke $19.99 $14.99 Cordless C SALE of mouth” Miller said. A member of the Culpeper Renaissance Inc. board of directors, $ 50 Drill/Drive -$10 downtown through its -$5businesses Includes case Miller knows how important it is to market 99 $ 2396687 $ 99 $ 99 Limit 4 at thi especially the restaurants. each Stanley FatMax Tools & “Culpeper Renaissance Inc. has a lot to do with the success of this town. As does 25' x 1-1/4" Tape Rule Accessories Limit 5 at this price. 2012383, 2135291, Town Council, they work very hard to2071439 make sure downtown continues to grow.” 2209518, 2308419, 27502

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Foti’s Restaurant is a good neighbor

By Jeff Say

ustomization is king. That’s the business model Frank Maragos has undertaken at Foti’s Restaurant, now entering it’s 13th year in Culpeper. Originally opened on the second block of East Davis Street, Foti’s moved to its current location at 110 E. Davis Street three years ago. That move helped Maragos realize the importance of changing with the times and giving customers exactly what they want. “We are small enough and personalized enough to constantly change with the needs of the town,” Maragos said. “That’s what happened when we moved up here (110 E Davis St). We realized what we offered wasn’t needed as much anymore. People wanted a place where they could come, have great food and have what they want no matter what time of the day it is.” He said that when he first moved to Culpeper, he had a set of goals he wanted to accomplish, but over the years has realized that the mission is larger than even his own business. “Then the longer I’ve been here, I’ve realized it’s not about what I want to accomplish, it’s about what this downtown wants to accomplish,” Maragos said. “If I don’t bring something unique to the table, then I’m just part of the white noise.” It’s a good thing Foti’s is unique - presenting an upscale menu in a vastly different context. Take for example Maragos’ favorite dish at the moment - chicken and waffles. It sounds like a basic comfort food dish but once he gets his hands on it - it comes alive with flavor. Seasoned like a tandoori chicken and soaked in buttermilk, it’s fried and served alongside a falafel

waffle with a curry yogurt sauce and a carrot chutney. “I have to give people a reason to come down to my place so they come downtown and then they can go to Pepperberries or go to John’s (It’s About Thyme), or Andrew’s (Grassrootes), we’re a cohesive entity,” Maragos said. It’s that community spirit that sets Culpeper apart, Maragos said. “I have 32 years of doing this, working in many different towns and many different states, I just feel the good neighbor policy is extremely strong in

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this town,” Maragos said. Being a good neighbor is what informs many of Maragos’ decisions. He’s heavily involved in the Buy Fresh, Buy Local program, is conscious of sustainable foods and is focused on reducing his restaurant’s footprint. “It’s opened my eyes to better utilization of the food,” Maragos said. “We’ve gotten rid of our dumpster. We’re recycling all of our metals, glasses and plastics. I just realized I am producing a dumpster full a week and that’s just wrong.” That kind spirit translates to the food preparation as well, as the public is constantly asking for customization due to food allergies or sensitivities. Maragos is quick to meet those needs. “The fact that we can adapt our dishes for any special wants or needs,” Maragos said. “If your body says it can’t have something, it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t enjoy a meal just as much as anyone else. We make everything from scratch and to order, so we can make any dish if you have any dietary restriction.” That customization gives a personal connection between the customer and the restaurant. “It’s what has established a wonderful, reliable clientele, that they know if they come here they’ll get what they want,” Maragos said. Getting what they want is what keeps people coming back to Foti’s and downtown. His success is the success of the town, Maragos said. “I was having a conversation with someone the other day about how important tourism is and what a great job CRI and Culpeper Tourism is doing keeping that wheel churning, but it’s also our duty on this street to make sure they return,” Maragos said. “If I fall short, or I don’t make them happy, then they’re not going to come back. It’s the obligation of the downtown.”

Foti’s Restaurant is located at 110 E Davis St ., Culpeper. Visit www.

fotisrestaurant.com.

Pinto Thai spices up Culpeper

into Thai prides itself on its spice. The longtime Thai restaurant opened in Culpeper in 2004 at the Lord Culpeper Hotel and moved to its current location of 179 E. Davis Street in October. Paul Sata and his family own the business and said Culpeper has embraced them from the start, even though Thai food wasn’t as prevalent 14 years ago as it is now. “Nobody knew the Thai food at first, but now everywhere has a Thai food place,” Sata said. Focusing on authentic Thai food with some fusion specials, the first thing that stands out about Pinto Thai - after its colorful logo of a character carrying pinto thai boxes - is the flavor. “A long time ago, people didn’t eat a lot of spice, but now they eat more than me,” Sata said with a laugh. “They just got used to it.” The restaurant has grown since 2004, branching out to three other locations in other cities. A truly family business, Sata said his family fell in love with Culpeper and the success they found here encouraged them to grow.

Pinto Thai is located at 179 E. Davis St., Culpeper. Visit www. thaiculpeper.com

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12308 Sperryville Pike, Culpeper, VA 22701 Treasures of Culpeper | Spring/Summer 2019 | 17

Flavor on Main invokes a simpler time By Jeff Say lavor on Main transports restaurant goers to a simpler age. Fancy cocktails and comfort food styled in unique ways strike a balance at the four-year-old restaurant at 137 S. Main St. Chef Garth Hansen returned to the Flavor on Main six months ago, after serving as chef when it opened under owners Sandy and Paula Hall and a group of investors. Hansen, a Virginia native, previously worked at noted restaurants Marea Ristorante and Le Cirque in Manhattan before returning to serve as chef at the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond. Four years ago he moved to Culpeper and brought his unique style to Flavor on Main. “We do traditional food in an untraditional way,” Hansen said. “We serve things in fashions that you are used to, but when you get them our way it opens up your mind.” He cites traditional dishes like fried chicken or crab cakes - at Flavor on Main he adds his own touch but “hits the memory chords.” After leaving Flavor on Man for a time, he returned six months ago to again lead the kitchen. “I started talking with Sandy and Flavor has a very soft spot in my heart,” Hansen said. Flavor on Main is known for Hansen’s cuisine and a robust bar menu highlighting classic cocktails with a nod to the prohibition area. For Hansen, marrying the menu to the drink pairings is one of the fun parts of managing a kitchen. “I think bar programs and drink programs are just as important as food programs,” Hansen said. “It’s an important as having homemade pasta,

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homemade breads and desserts. If you don’t have a really solid drink program, you’re not going to have that balance. You always have one or the other to pick up the slack.” The drinks cover a wide range, from the classic mint julep to the jitterbug - a refreshing cucumber margarita. It’s a drink menu that took a lot of discussion to put together. “Paula (Hall) and I spent a lot of time making drinks,” Hansen said. “A lot of the drinks Paula had in passing and just had memories of them. We were trying to create drinks from her memories. We were then recreating our idea of a drink through your memory taste buds. It was a lot of fun.” Fun is at the heart of Hansen’s creations. With a new menu just recently introduced he expects many new favorites to join classics like the now iconic crab tower. He points to his favorite - a cast iron duck breast in a l’orange sauce. Served in a mini cast iron pan, with a roasted sweet potato puree, caramelized brown sugar and candied walnuts and crispy sweet potato ribbons - the dish is already tantalizing customers. It’s dishes like it that has made Flavor on Main one of the destinations when it comes to food in Culpeper. Despite being relatively small, the town has become a “foodie” haven. “I think Culpeper, what sets it aside is it has the Godfathers downtown,” Hansen said. “John Yarnall opened up It’s About Thyme, Frank is one of my best friends at Foti’s. He started bringing a lot of people to a culinary destination. Culpeper started to transform into a food town.” Hansen said they receive reservations from all over - visitors come from Charlottesville, Richmond, Northern Virginia and even folks traveling through Virginia on the way to Florida. “I think it’s special, it’s special that these people who don’t even know about Culpeper stop here because of the food,” Hansen said. “People are traveling from D.C. for food, and that’s really important.” What’s also important is the restaurant community in Culpeper - where everyone works together. “For some reason you sell 90 percent of one thing on your menu, you can call any restaurant downtown and everybody will help each other out,” Hansen said. “Everybody talks to each other, there’s not that competition or animosity between restaurants. We don’t have that here in Culpeper. Where Culpeper is a bedroom community, I feel the relationships the restaurants have with each other translates that bedroom community also.”

Flavor on Main is located at 137 S Main St #103, Culpeper. Visit www. flavoronmain.com

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