History of Pretzels

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January 2011

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From Monastery to Mall: The True History of the Pretzel

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From Monastery to Mall: The True History of the Pretzel The history and evolution of the pretzel is obscure, with several differing sets of “facts.” Where, when, and why was it invented? Did Viennese pretzel bakers really save Europe from conquest by the Ottoman Empire? How did the hard pretzel come about? We examine the whole matter, explode some myths, and tell you the truth! by Sotheby West In A.D. 610, a monk at a monastery in northern Italy came up with a great idea for bribing the local children into remembering their religious instruction. He twisted strips of unleavened bread dough into a shape resembling the most common posture of prayer at the time: forearms crossed over the chest. (The reason for this posture was the belief that the center of one's being was the heart, and the heart was where Jesus took up his abode in good Christians.) If the children recited correctly what they were to supposed to recite, they got

According to legend, the pretzel was invented in the kitchen of a medieval Alpine Italian (or French--take your pick) monastery as a reward to children who learned their religious lessons well. The British Museum January 2011

one of these pretiolas, which is Latin for “little reward.” The fact that hunger was common in those days might have had a lot to do with the success of this ploy. (For more on the fuzzy etymology of "pretzel," see the note at the end of this article.) That's one story. The simple fact that an exact date (A.D. 610) is given is also a hint that it might not be completely true. For one thing, sources citing the date never tell us where it came from. For another, in that time and place, prosaic events such as the invention of a bakery product just weren't recorded. The coronation of kings, the dates of battles, yes; new culinary treats, no. (So far as we can tell, the A.D. 610 date first appears in The History of Science and Technology: A Browser's Guide to the Great Discoveries, Inventions, and the People Who Made Them from the Dawn of Time to Today, by Bryan Bunch, published in 2004. Where he got that date, we're not sure.) A more likely scenario is that the monk mentioned was indeed baking what we now call pretzels, and that he did indeed intend it as a reward, but that he didn't invent the treat. Rather, he was probably following a custom that was already at least 100 Pennsylvania produces 80% of the pretzels manufactured in the United States.

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Cover Illustration An illustration in the Hortus Delicarium (1185) shows Queen Esther and King Ahasuerus (Xerxes the Great) at a meal with a pretzel on the table. Esther and Xerxes lived at least 1,000 years before the pretzel is thought to have been invented.

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years old. This custom was brought on by the Roman Catholic observance of Lent. During Lent, a 40-day period preceding Easter, Roman Catholics were to abstain from eating meat and all meat-related products such as milk, cheese, and eggs. They were to eat only one meal a day, but snacking was allowed. Since at least sometime before A.D. 500, a pretzel-shaped snack of unleavened bread was one of these snacks. The circa A.D. 500 date is arrived at from the depiction of a pretzel in an illuminated manuscript of that period, the Vergilius Romanus, which is housed in the Vatican library. The date of this manuscript is uncertain, with some scholars opining it was made as early as A.D. 300, and others giving it an upward limit of A.D. 500. The pretzel snack grew in popularity throughout Christian 1996 Town Car. Signature Series. Power steering, power brakes, power windows, big trunk, 124,000 miles. 30 mpg highway, 20 mpg town. Runs great. New intake manifold & other engine work, new front end parts. Problems with clear coat and headliner. $3,500 or trade for handicapped van. 951-213-9556. 4

The coat of arms of today’s Berlin bakers prominently features the pretzel.

Europe, probably because of its portability and its shape. One must remember that items with religious significance were important to Roman Catholics of the time. The pretzel's crossed-arms-in-prayer configuration reminded the devout that God knew of their needs and answered prayers. In time, another religious connotation was made: The three holes of a pretzel came to signify the Trinity of Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. Time went on, and the pretiola came to be considered a good-luck charm promising prosperity, health, and long life. In fact, German children took to wearing one around the neck at New Year for good luck. Also in Germany (where the “pretiola” became the “bretzel,” the pretzel was eaten ritually on Good 2001 Toyota Corolla

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became heroes, at least in Vienna, Austria, according to one story. As bakers do today, the Viennese pretzel bakers were working in a basement bakery in the wee hours one morning in 1510, getting their wares ready for early-rising citizens. As they worked, they heard the sounds of digging outside the bakery walls. Since the city was then under siege by the Turks, they rightly assumed their foes were trying to dig their way in. The bakers raised the alarm, and the Ottoman sappers were driven off. Thus ended the siege, as well as the Ottoman Turks’ invasion of Europe, which, if successful, would have made Europe a Muslim territory. In gratitude the Emperor of Austria presented the bakers with a coat of arms featuring the pretzel. But this tale is probably not a true, even if romantic, story. More than 100 years before the bakers of Vienna supposedly saved the city, bakers in Berlin, Ger., already had a guild seal featuring the pretzel. It takes little stretch of the imagination 2002 PT Cruiser Limited Edition

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The crossed "arms" of a pretzel are meant to mimic the common posture of prayer in early times.

to think that perhaps bakers throughout the Germany-Austria area had long featured the pretzel as an insignia. Furthermore, the first Ottoman siege of Vienna was in 1529, not 1510. And at the time, Austria was ruled by an archduke, Ferdinand I of Habsburg, not an emperor. (It's really awful the way facts get in the way of a good story, isn't it?) But that the pretzel was an important bakery item during the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance is evident in the number of times it is featured in illustrations of bakers. The romance of the pretzel extends to...well...romance! Some writers would have us believe the pretzel, which resembles a knot, is the source of the term "tying the knot" in marriage. In truth, ceremoniously tying together a bride and groom with knotted cords or sashes or what have you is a custom Stradivari Copies. My husband, an artist and master craftsman, hand carved these violins. He asked me to make sure that, after his passing, they got into the hands of someone who would appreciate them. Valued at $2,500 each, will sell at $1,000 each or both for $1,500. Call 651-2745048. January 2011

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much older than the advent of the pretzel. But the pretzel did come to have a role in weddings. We're told that a stained-glass window in a Berne, Switzerland, cathedral depicts a royal wedding in which the bride and groom hold a pretzel between them. We haven't seen this window, nor the 1614 woodcut that supposedly copies it. (If any of our readers can send us a picture, with source, we'd be immensely grateful.) There is a good possibility the pretzel was a symbol (as in days gone before) of good luck. The one thing we do know is that brides and grooms often break a pretzel as they would the wishbone from a turkey. The idea is the same: The person Sudoku

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The first commercial pretzel bakery in the United States was the Sturgis Pretzel House in Lititz, Penn., founded in 1861.

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Fact or fallacy? Until 1849, the American Medical Association warned that bathing was unhealthy, Boston outlawed bathtubs, various cities imposed a bathtub tax. We explode some myths you’ll still find in encyclopedias and the history books. Also: The first presidential bathtub, the history of the shower and the Jacuzzi-style whirlpool bath, the historical bathtub nobody wanted, and the oldest bathtub in the world. January 2011


The world’s largest pretzel (to date) was baked in Jelgava, Latvia, in 2000. It measured 32 feet across. Before that feat, Auntie Annie’s pretzel company of Lake Charles, La., claimed the title with a pretzel that measured 12 feet wide and weighed 431 pounds. And before that, in 1963 Joseph Nacchio of the Federal Pretzel Baking Company baked a pretzel five feet wide that weighed 40 pounds.

who ends up with the biggest piece gets their wish. Let's hope they both wish for life-long happiness together. The pretzel worked its way to North America with German immigration in the late 1600s and early 1700s. The Palatine (Pennsylvania Dutch) immigration of 1710-15 to New York and Pennsylvania was the largest wave in this period. This was also, if legend is true, when the hard pretzel came into being. According to the story, a baker in Pennsylvania sometime in the 1700s left the bakery on an errand. During his absence, his apprentice fell asleep. Upon awakening, the apprentice couldn't remember the stage at which the pretzels in the oven were in their baking, and added more wood to the oven, overcooking the pretzels. The baker returned and found the pretzels quite a bit crispier than they were supposed to be. After boxing the apprentice's ears, the baker toted the ruined pretzels to the backyard for disposal. On the way, however, he tried one of them, and liked it. He also liked the idea that the “burned” pretzels would keep longer than the

A 1465 illustration by Konzil von Konstanz showing a portable baker's oven. The hausfraus of the day certainly got their bread fresh! January 2011

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According to one source, “[t]he average American consumes about 1.5 pounds (0.7 kg) of pretzels per year.” “Average” is not defined.

soft variety, and started making crispy pretzels on purpose. It wasn't until the establishment of a hard-pretzel-only factory in 1861 in Lititz, Penn., that this type of pretzel had a very large market. Today in the United States, people buy enough pretzels every year to make it the country's secondmost-favorite snack food (potato chips come in first; popcorn, third).

Notes and Additional Information The etymology of "pretzel." As mentioned, "pretiola" or "little reward" has been given as the initial name of the pretzel, and that our current word stems from a corruption of the Latin. Other people suggest that the pretzel was also called "bracellae," Latin for "arms," because of the shape, which

MAKE YOUR OWN PRETZELS Yield: 1 dozen pretzels Ingredients * 1 (.25 ounce) package active dry yeast * 2 tablespoons brown sugar * 1 1/8 teaspoons salt * 1 1/2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C) * 3 cups all-purpose flour * 1 cup bread flour * 2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C) * 2 tablespns baking soda * 2 tablespns butter, melted * 2 tablespns coarse kosher salt Directions 1. In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast, brown sugar and salt in 1 1/2 cups warm water. Stir in flour, and knead dough on a floured surface until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, and turn to coat the surface. Cover, and let rise for one hour.

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2. Combine 2 cups warm water and baking soda in an 8 inch square pan. 3. After dough has risen, cut into 12 pieces. Roll each piece into a 3 foot rope, pencil thin or thinner. Twist into a pretzel shape, and dip into the baking soda solution. Place on parchment covered cookie sheets, and let rise 15 to 20 minutes. 4. Bake at 450 degrees F (230 degrees C) for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with coarse salt, garlic salt or cinnamon sugar. Source: AllRecipes.com FOR SALE Established popcorn & candy concession. 80% profit. Buy it today, make money tomorrow! Everything you need: Gold Medal popcorn popper, extra kettle, canopy, fly screen, handwashing set-up, popcorn & candy displays, soft-drink cooler, remaining inventory, business name, domain name, and more. Value: $2,000. Sell for $950. Buckhorn Bob’s

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The Myth The professor of a university challenged his students with this question: "Did God create everything that exists?" A student answered, "Yes, he did". The professor then asked, "If God created everything, then he created evil. Since evil exists, God is evil.” The student couldn't respond to that statement causing the professor to conclude that he had "proved" that "belief in God" was a fairy tale. Another student raised his hand and asked the professor, "May I pose a question? " “Of course," said the professor. The young student stood up and asked : "Professor does Cold exists?" The professor answered, "What kind of question is that? ...Of course cold exists... haven't you ever been cold?" The young student answered, "In fact sir, Cold does not exist. According to the laws of Physics, what we consider cold, in fact is the absence of heat. Anything is able to be studied as long as it transmits energy (heat). Absolute Zero is the total absence of heat, but cold does not exist. What we have done is create a term to describe how we feel if we don't have body heat or we are not hot." "And does Dark exist?" he

was supposed to mimic a person in prayer, and that "bracellae" was then corrupted in High German to "bretzel" and then to our current "pretzel." And then we have this snippet of information from a May 8, 2002, article in the Los Angeles Times titled "A Twisted Tale How Pretzels Got Their Name," [I]n German the word is "bretzel," not pretzel. In medieval Old High German, it was even less like pretiola -- it was brezitella. Linguists think brezitella probably came from the medieval Latin brachiatellum, meaning a little brachiatum, which would be a bread baked in the form of crossed arms. Not that anybody has found the word "brachiatellum" in any manuscript; the linguists only claim their explanation is less unlikely than the others. Be all that as it may, Germans and their neighbors made 10

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After this, the professor bowed down his head, and didn't answer back. The young man's name was Albert DEBUNKED Einstein. A Young Albert Einstein Proves the Existence of God The Truth continued. As with all such false stories, this The professor answered "Of one is short on specifics, and if one course". does only a little research, one finds This time the student responded, variations that suit the purposes of the "Again you're wrong, Sir. Darkness person relating the story (for example, does not exist either. Darkness is in another version has the professor fact simply the absence of light. Light stating that since God is evil, then can be studied, darkness can not. Christianity, not just God, is a myth). Darkness cannot be broken down. A More to the point, Albert Einstein simple ray of light tears the darkness had by the age of 12 rejected the idea of and illuminates the surface where the a personal God. He wrote: "[T]he word light beam finishes. Dark is a term that God is for me nothing more than the we humans have created to describe expression and product of human what happens when there's lack of weaknesses, the Bible a collection of light." honorable but still primitive legends Finally, the student asked the which are nevertheless pretty childish." professor, "Sir, does evil exist?" The Further, in a 1954 letter he wrote, “It professor replied, "Of course it exists, was, of course, a lie what you read as I mentioned at the beginning, we about my religious convictions, a lie see violations, crimes and violence which is being systematically repeated. anywhere in the world, and those I do not believe in a personal God and I things are evil." have never denied this but have The student responded, "Sir, Evil expressed it clearly. If something is in does not exist. Just as in the previous me which can be called religious then it cases, Evil is a term which man has is the unbounded admiration for the created to describe the result of the structure of the world so far as our absence of God's presence in the science can reveal it." hearts of man."

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the pretzel famous, brought their recipes with them to North America, and from there pretzels achieved worldwide fame and munching. Source for the image of the Vienna baker's coat of arms is "The SHOPPING Book of Threes" (http://threes.com). Y Medieval and Renaissance artists PERSONAL CARE often put anachronistic items into Y religious works of art. For example, a famous German metalcut (ca. ERRANDS 1455-60) called "Christ Washing Y Peter's feet, and The Last Supper; MEAL PREP. The Agony in the Garden of Y Gethsemane," now in the Bodleian collection at Oxford University , is DR. APPTS partially described : "The table is Y decked with a cloth, on which has DOG WALKING been placed a pretzel, a knife, a plate containing a fish, and a piece of bread.”

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Legend & Lore Magazine

SETTER SHEEPDOG SHEPHERD SHIHTZU SPANIEL STBERNARD TERRIER WOLFHOUND YORKIE January 2011


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PRETZELS

January 2011

Pieter Bruegel's 1559 painting "The Fight Between Carnival and Lent" clearly depicts pretzels on the Church side of the fray (lower right).

Legend & Lore Magazine

A Viipurinrinkeli by Any Other Name In Finland, a pretzel is a viipurinrinkeli; in Czech Republic, a preclík; in Spain, France, and Italy, a pretzel, a bretzel or a brezel; in The Netherlands, a krakeling; in Norway and Denmark, a kringle; in Poland, a precel; in Hungary, a perec; and in Romania, it’s a covrig. 13


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Legend & Lore CENTERED PHOTO Stradivari Violin Copies TEXT AD

$20.00 for up to 40 words. 20¢ per additional word over 40 words. Hand carved by master craftsman.Great sound. Perfect for student. Valued at $2,500 each, will sell at $1,000 each or both for $1,500. Call 651-274-5048. 6-Word Heading + Up to 25 words of copy (20¢ per additional word) + centered 1.2” x .75” photo. $25.00 LEFT-ALIGNED PHOTO 1996 Town Car. Signature Series. Power steering, power brakes, power windows, big trunk, 124,000 miles. 30 mpg highway, 20 mpg town. Runs great. New intake manifold & other engine work, new front end parts. Problems with clear coat and headliner. $3,500 or trade for handicapped van. 951-213-9556. Up to 40 words of copy (20¢ per additional word) + 1.2” x .75” photo aligned left-top. $25.00

The mascot of the Freeport, Ill., high school is the pretzel. That’s because Freeport bills itself as “Pretzel City USA.” Somehow, the idea of rooting, “Go, Pretzels!” at a high school football game seems a bit humorous. We can imagine the cheerleaders of an opposing team (with perhaps the cougar as a mascot) yelling, “Chomp the Pretzels!” But even less likely than a pretzel to strike fear into the hearts of the opposition might be Omaha, Nebraska’s, Benson High School football team, known as (this is true!) the Bunnies.

Stradivari Copies. My husband, an artist and master craftsman, hand carved these violins. He asked me to make sure that, after his passing, they got into the hands of someone who would appreciate them. Valued at $2,500 each, will sell at $1,000 each or both for $1,500. Call 651-274-5048.

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Pretzels (on table with fish) illustrated in Vergilius Romanus a manuscript from ca. A.D. 500 (or earlier).

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DEADLINE 25th of the month preceding issue date. No cancellations after that date. Prepayment required. Acceptable payment: cash, check, money order, credit card, debit card. TO PLACE YOUR AD, CALL 951-652-2718 Or E-Mail Ad Copy & Photo to advertising@ legendandloremagazine.com (Do Not E-Mail Credit/Debit Card Info!) For Other Ads Sizes, Visit Our Website Advertising Information Page at www.LegendandLoreMagazine.com/advertising-info.html Or Call 951-213-9556

Crossword Solution

Here is another illustration of a portable baker's oven from the Renaissance, source and date unknown. 14

Legend & Lore Magazine

January 2011


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This covered silver cup featuring a pretzel was cast by Christoph Epfenhauser III ca. 1590-95.

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