Legends August - September 2015 by Legends Magazine

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PUBLISHER AND PRESIDENT ��Marianne Todd CREATIVE DIRECTOR / LEAD DESIGNER �� Shawn T. King GRAPHIC DESIGNER �� Adrienne Dison DIRECTOR OF MARKETING ��Ken Flynt WEBSITE DESIGNER ��Scott Mire ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER ��Chris Banks Contact LEGENDS 601-604-2963 Marketing - 601-479-3351 | Ken@ReadLegends.com Editorial - 601-604-2963 | Editor@MississippiLegends.com Contributing writers: Tom Speed, Riley Manning, Meghan Holmes, Adrienne Dison, Kara Martinez Bachman, Warren Hines, David Sprayberry, Dudley Tardo Contributing photographers: Rory Doyle, Joe Worthem, Ken Flynt, James Edward Bates, Chuck Cook, Michael Barrett, Dianne Barrett LEGENDS welcomes your calendar submissions. Submissions are posted free of charge on our website at www.ReadLegends.com. Calendar submissions for consideration in LEGENDS’ print calendar may be sent to

Chris@ReadLegends.com. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or reprinted without express permission from the publisher. The opinions and views expressed by our contributors, writers and editors are their own. Various views from other professionals may also be expressed. Neither LEGENDS nor Blue South Publishing Corporation is endorsing or guaranteeing the products or quality of services expressed in advertisements. All advertisers assume liability for all content (including text representation and illustration) of advertisements printed and assume responsibility for any resulting claims against LEGENDS or its affiliates. Materials, photographs and written pieces to be considered for inclusion in LEGENDS may be sent to P.O. Box 3663, Meridian, MS 39303. Unsolicited materials will not be returned. LEGENDS is sold on bookstore shelves in 38 states. Additionally, Blue South Publishing Corporation provides more than 20,000 free copies in its coverage area to tourism offices, welcome centers, hotels, restaurants, theaters, museums, galleries, coffee shops, casinos and institutions of higher learning. If your business, agency or industry would like to be considered as a LEGENDS distribution point, or for a list of retailers, please contact us at Editor@MississippiLegends.com. For more information, write to Editor@MississippiLegends.com. More information, including a comprehensive, up-to-date calendar, may be found at

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ABOUT OUR COVER George Sanders, a native of Cleveland, Mississippi, plays a lick with the Pearl Street Jumpers at Dockery Farms. The former plantation, situated just east of Sanders’ hometown, is said to have given birth to the blues. “My daddy taught me that it was a training ground for the blues,” Sanders said. “And you know it ain’t too far from the Crossroads.” (Photograph by Rory Doyle/LEGENDS) Cover story begins on page 22.

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CONTENTS AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2015

MUSIC 6

Appalachia Meets the Gulf

Bluegrass fans flock to Destin in late summer for day of music

Cover Story: Dockery Farms

Elvis’ Circle G Ranch Rocks On

Those Gyrating Moves

Blues on Tap

What Time is It?

Times Ain’t Like they Used to Be

Funk, Blues and Tallahatchie Views

Birthing the blues since the blues began Saving the Presleys’ honeymoon hideaway ranch A history of the Elvis tribute artist The Mighty Mississippi Fest rings in 17-day pilgrimage It’s King Biscuit Blues Festival time! The Jericho Road Show and Traveling House Party New Albany’s Riverfest

CULTURE 29

Time Traveling in Corinth

The Legacy of Longwood

Rediscovering Andrew Bucci

New Charm, Old Roots

Borroum’s Drug Store and Soda Fountain The Natchez mansion that time forgot Mississippi’s modern master of visual art Covington’s The Southern Hotel

CULINARY 10

A Tale of Two 10s

New waterfront dining venues overlooking Destin Harbor and Mississippi River

Food from the Forest

Menus of freshly foraged foods reunite diners with original locally-grown ingredients

Three Rivers Art Festival

Fall into Fun on the Northshore

We celebrate

Everything

in St. Tammany Parish, 45 minutes

north of New Orleans. Mark your calendar for these exciting upcoming events. For more info or to find your fun, just log onto www.LouisianaNorthshore.com/lgd. Follow us on:

Sept. 11, 25, Dew Drop Jazz Hall Oct. 9, 23, Fall Concerts & Nov. 6, 20 in Mandeville Sept. 12, 26, Jazzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n the Vines Oct. 10, 24, Fall Concerts at & Nov. 28 Pontchartrain Vineyards

Dew Drop Jazz Hall

Oct. 9-12 Kayak Fishing Boondoggle at Fontainebleau State Park Oct. 10 Fall for Art in Covington

â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

LOUISIANA S NORTHSHORE 1- 8 0 0 - 6 3 4 -94 4 3

â&#x20AC;˘

Oct. 10-11 Wooden Boat Festival in Madisonville

Fall for Art

Oct. 17 Wild Things at Big Branch Marsh NWR Nov. 14-15 Three Rivers Art Festival in Covington

Wooden Boat Festival

w w w. L o u i s i a n a N o r t h s h o r e.c o m / l g d READLEGENDS.COM â&#x20AC;˘

STORY FROM DESTIN, STORY DESTIN, FLA. FLA.

Blue Highway takes center stage at first ever

BLUEGRASS at the beach

t is already an unusual pairing - bluegrass and beach - but for a firstever festival, promoters got serious when creating the lineup that will kick off Bluegrass at the Beach, a one-day music fest in Destin, Florida. The signature event, slated for September 12, plays host to seven

Also celebrating its 20th anniversary is Bluegrass at the Beach host, the Mattie Kelly Arts Foundation, whose mission is to promote cultural arts and education in Northwest Florida. Mattie Kelly moved to Destin in 1935 with her husband, Coleman Lee Kelly, and their five children. As one of the town’s founding families, they purchased acres

award-winning bluegrass bands during a 13-hour stretch. The festival, of course, comes complete with family-related activities for children and food and beverage offerings (including wine and beer) by some of the area’s most popular restaurants.

of land along Choctawhatchee Bay and what is now Destin Harbor. Though they began as turpentine farmers, the Kellys established themselves as prominent local business owners and philanthropists and are widely credited with pioneering Destin’s tourism and fishing

Headliners are the nationally-acclaimed Blue Highway, with 24 collective International Bluegrass Music Association awards, six awards from the Society for the Preservation of Bluegrass Music of America, one Dove Award and two Grammy nominations. Hailing

industries. Mattie Kelly was a lifelong patron of the arts, supporting arts organizations through her participation and financial gifts. She shared her own artistic talent by authoring a book of poems and composing and playing her own music.

from Kingsport, Tennessee, the band recently produced its 11th release as a tribute to its 20th anniversary together. Also slated are The Hillbenders, Run Boy Run, Willie Sugarcapps, Moore Brothers Band, Dread Clampitt and Dismal Creek.

Anniversary event,” said Marcia Hull, the foundation’s CEO. “Local band Dread Clampitt was among MKAF’s early performances, and now they will be part of our first annual Bluegrass festival and join

8 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

“It is a fitting tribute to connect with our roots for our big 20th

gulf coast festivals When it comes time to cut loose, chow down, or just kick back and relax, Pensacola can fest with the best. Like The Frank Brown International Songwriter’s Festival, a 10-day marathon celebrating veteran and novice songwriters alike. Or the Foo Foo Fest, a great big festival wrapped around a marquee of other festivals. So put on your traveling fest, and come visit Pensacola, where we know how to throw a party—and then some. For information on Pensacola’s festivals and events, go to visitpensacola.com

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us in welcoming regional and national bluegrass artists to Destin.â&#x20AC;? Bluegrass at the Beach, to be held at the Mattie Kelly Arts Foundation Cultural Arts Village in Destin, is also sponsored in part by ResortQuest by Wyndham Vacation Rentals. Tickets are $45 for MKAF members and $55 for general admission. Children under 12 enter free. VIP tables are $750 each and include premium seating for eight and 16 drink tickets. Doors open at 10 a.m. Parking is available on-site as well as at satellite parking areas. Shuttle service is free. Tickets may be purchased online at mattiekellyartsfoundation.org or by phone at (850) 650-2226. The Hillbenders, below, and Run Boy Run, above, are slated for the first-ever Bluegrass at the Beach.

10 â&#x20AC;˘ AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

Unforgettable Vacation Rentals and Emerald Coast Beaches go together like Bluegrass at the Beach! Come to Destin, Florida for Bluegrass at the Beach September 12th and enjoy live bluegrass by Blue Highway, The Hillbenders, Run Boy Run, Willie Sugarcapps and more! For exclusive discounts on beach accommodations during Bluegrass at the Beach call 844-253-7848 or visit us online at BluegrassAtTheBeachRQ.com

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*Visit BlueGrassAtTheBeach.com for terms and conditions. ÂŠ2015 Wyndham Vacation Rentals North America, LLC. 14 Sylvan Way, Parsippany, NJ 07054. Wyndham Vacation Rentals and related marks are registered trademarks and/or service marks in the United States and internationally. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

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STORY FROM DESTIN, FLA.

A TALE OF TWO 10s 2

— 10 —

SIP, SAVOR, SHARE BY MEGHAN HOLMES • PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHUCK COOK

A new restaurant in Emerald Grande’s HarborWalk village offers farm-to-table fine dining and regional cuisine along with unparalleled views and modern architecture.

he Emerald Grande at HarborWalk Village sits on the western edge of Destin Harbor near East Pass and below Choctawahatchee Bay. The small spit of land separating harbor and bay has long been home to a vibrant fishing community living off the bounty of the Florida coast. Emerald Grande’s newest restaurant, 10, continues these traditions with modern twists found in the décor and menu design. Chef Jim McManus created the menu with local farmers and purveyors in mind. Summer’s offerings Chef Jim McManus feature greens, eggplant, cabbage, corn, squash and zucchini grown in Florida as well as seafood and fish all caught between Alabama and the Panhandle. “Our overall concept is farm-to-table,” McManus says. “We use food sources indigenous to the area, believing that the closer you can obtain the food to you, the fresher it is.” 10’s dishes speak to the myriad culinary influences of the South. French, Creole, Native American and Italian preparations combine with regional recipes and ingredients to produce unique dishes. As crab season reaches its peak, appetizers include a white flatbread with jumbo

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lump crab, jalepeño, pecorino, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil as well as a jumbo lump crab cake topped with a corn maque choux and buerre blanc sauce. Other appetizer highlights include a porcini mushroom crusted diver sea scallop and a stacked Caesar salad with a brioche crouton and flash fried white anchovy. “Guests love our blue crab claws. They’re local and a little more expensive, but well worth the money. We cook them in herbs and butter and serve them with rustic French bread,” says McManus. “Another popular appetizer is the Florida lobster chowder,” he says. The dish begins with a roasted lobster stock added to a caramelized mirepoix and smoked potato. Sherry and cream added to finish the chowder provide additional layers of flavor in an already complex offering. Finally, it’s topped with half of a Florida lobster tail. 10’s entrees present additional fresh seafood offerings including shrimp, redfish, snapper and grouper. The red snapper comes over spinach, topped with a béarnaise sauce and fried gulf oysters. The garlic butter gulf shrimp receive a Creole preparation with andouille sausage, maque

choux, and a shrimp velouté over angel hair pasta. Black grouper is paneed and topped with fresh jumbo lump crabmeat and béarnaise. Additional entrées broaden the scope of the menu beyond seafood. “One of my favorite dishes is a paneed veal served with a four mushroom medley, grilled lemon and asparagus,” says McManus. Other options include an American wagyu beef burger and a Creole roasted chicken preparation with an oyster, shrimp and crabmeat dressing. The dessert menu offers several odes to Louisiana cookery – including bananas foster beignets and a butter pecan bread pudding served with bourbon ice cream and praline sauce. Other options include a bluberry crème brulée and coconut crème pie with dark chocolate curls and toasted coconut. A manageable, well-paired, wine list enhances the menu’s already vibrant flavors, while an extensive selection of craft and classic cocktails provides something for everyone. Mai Tais, Mojitos and Emerald Breezes mix rum with fresh tropical flavors to compliment the ocean views from 10’s indoor and outdoor dining areas on bright sunny days. Manhattans, Old Fashioneds and Sazeracs compliment the menu’s hearty steak and veal entrees, meant for enjoying during evening meals as the sun sets over the Destin Harbor. Named after its address at 10 HarborWalk Boulevard, 10 overlooks the activity of HarborWalk Village and marina. Booths offer kayaks and paddleboard rental, fishing boats drift through the harbor and families watch the waves. At night, large palm trees lining the waterfront glow from top to bottom encircled with white Christmas

10’s ocean view gives the restaurant a sense of calm. The décor replicates this balance of vigor and serenity by incorporating natural elements and influences into modern architectural design. The main dining room’s color palette mimics the contrast between Destin’s strikingly white sands and blue waters. White birds fly below a circular light, hanging at various levels as a flock of seagulls rises from the water.

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lights. Despite the hustle and bustle of the boardwalk, the ocean view gives 10 a sense of calm. The restaurant’s décor replicates this balance of vigor and serenity by incorporating natural elements and influences into modern architectural design. The main dining room’s color palette mimics the contrast between Destin’s strikingly white sands and blue waters. Round, metallic light fixtures hang above circular white banquettes with turquoise and white leather seating. The circular space features floor to ceiling windows with white curtains and muted evening lighting coming from a central light fixture. White birds fly below the light, hanging at various levels as a flock of seagulls rises from the water. Guests may also dine at the downstairs bar featuring a chef selected bar menu as well as a happy hour and specialty cocktails. Both the cocktails and food offerings change seasonally in keeping with the restaurant’s overall focus on regional produce and recipes. Dining at 10 brings global culinary influences to local ingredients, creating a world-class experience that remains authentic and rooted in Florida’s history. Coupled with the décor and location – the experience is unforgettable. L WANT TO KNOW MORE? Visit emeraldgrande.com/10

Clockwise, 10 at Destin’s HarborWalk Village offers stunning views of the Destin Harbor. Its menu is created with a farm-to-table concept using local ingredients and daily fresh catch. Highlighted here are bone-in ribeye with béarnaise, bread pudding, dusted fried oysters with mushrooms cream gravy and bacon, white flat bread pizza with cream cheese, jalapeño, crab meat, mozzarella and basil and fried gulf shrimp with onion rings, maque choux and Steen’s cane syrup.

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STORY FROM VICKSBURG, MISS.

A TALE OF TWO 10s 2

— 10 SOUTH —

SOUTHERN COMFORT AT THE TOP OF THE RIVER CITY BY KARA MARTINEZ BACHMAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DIANNE AND MICHAEL BARRETT Not only does 10 South provide open-air rooftop dining, it gives guests panoramic bird’s eye views of the Mississippi River, Louisiana Delta Point, Yazoo Canal and Centennial Lake. The culinary specialty is Southern comfort food, but the view of Vicksburg is the true money shot.

ometimes, to get a fresh start and new mood, we need only change our view. That’s easy for those visiting the new dining place operated by Vicksburg, Mississippi, restaurateur Jay Parmegiani. “The view is probably the biggest attraction to our location. It has a panoramic 360-degree view of the city of Vicksburg, including an amazing view of the Mississippi River and Yazoo Diversion canal,” said Kevin Roberts, 10 South chef. “On a good, clear day one can see 30 miles across the Louisiana Delta Chef Kevin Roberts and enjoy breathtaking sunsets. The greatest part is no matter how many times you come up here, you will always see a different sunset every evening.” The restaurant sits like a crown jewel at the atmospheric 10th Floor tip-top of the building that originally housed the First National Bank of Vicksburg. It’s now renovated with Trustmark Bank occupying the first two levels and 55 upscale apartments – the Lofts at First National – occupying the others.

“It’s a substantial rehab of a 1905 historic building that was, when it was built, the tallest building in the state of Mississippi,” said developer Tim Cantwell. Roberts said since its opening, business has been “insanely busy” as locals flock to check out the new rooftop eatery. During that time, Parmegiani and Roberts have honed in on favorites of the local palate. “One thing we have learned is that people love comfort food, and we have done quite well by putting our twist on Southern favorites,” Roberts said. “Our menu is filled with chef-centric items that are not only creative, but unique to the area and are guaranteed to leave your taste buds satisfied.” One of the more popular menu items is the chicken and waffles, made with a special breading applied to fresh boneless chicken breasts. It is served with a sweet potatocornbread waffle. For the final gilding of this casual culinary lily, the dish is, according to Roberts, “drizzled in a sweet, tangy, spicy maple-chili glaze made from honey, maple syrup and spices.” READLEGENDS.COM •

Clockwise, guests to Vicksburg’s 10 South take in a 360-degree view of the city, including a view of the Mississippi River and Yazoo diversion canal; the menu includes Southern comfort foods like classic bread pudding and signature BBQ Bacon Burger; guests say the sun sets differently over the rooftop restaurant each night.

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Another popular dish is 10 South’s Signature BBQ Bacon Burger. It’s served on a honey Kaiser roll and crafted of two fresh four-ounce beef patties and pepper jack cheese, draped with strips of house-made sweet and spicy candied bacon. Served alongside it are crispy potato sticks and Coca-Cola BBQ sauce. “You can’t go wrong with sweet, savory and spicy on a bun,” Roberts said. Additional entrees include a Cayenne Coffee New York Strip, grilled and served with a red-eye gravy and mushrooms; a cornish hen, glazed with the Coca-Cola BBQ; and oysters, shrimp and catch-of-the-day dishes. In addition to the sinful BBQ Bacon Burger, the sandwich menu includes an assortment of burgers and warm sandwiches, including buns filled with chicken or pulled pork and the indulgent Monte Cristo, served with Blackburn’s syrup. A brief salad menu and ample selection of small plate appetizers round out the offerings. “Nick’s Mac Nuggets” is a popular appetizer; Roberts calls them “little bundles of deep fried joy.” The dish is made with four-cheese macaroni breaded with panko breadcrumbs and fried, “to create a crunchy crust and cheesy center.” The nuggets are served with a house-crafted spicy tomato jam. As menu creator, Roberts brings a background of diverse culinary expertise when assembling cuisine. It reflects both his experiences as well as the tastes of local diners, blessed with the home run opportunity of savoring Roberts’ work while inspecting Vicksburg from on high. “We have spent the last two years designing a restaurant and menu that we feel is exciting and creative, yet not too bizarre that people can’t understand what they are ordering.” Plus, let’s not forget … it’s got the best dang view in town. L WANT TO KNOW MORE? Visit 10southrooftop.com

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Folk Art & Antique Museum

The Alice Moseley Folk Art and Antique Museum honors nationally acclaimed folk artist, humorist and story-teller Alice Latimer Moseley, (1909-2004). Alice Moseley Prints are available for purchase.

Located on the 2nd Floor of the Historic Train Depot across from the Blue House (from I-10, exit 13 South to Highway 90) Bay St. Louis, MS

228-467-9223 Free Admission, Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

“The House is Blue, But the Old Lady Ain’t” The museum is an IRS 501(c)(3) corporation and all donations are tax deductible.

Learn more about Alice and her museum at www.alicemoseley.com • READLEGENDS.COM •

W E LO V E H A V ING T H E NEIGH BO RS O V ER. T A ST E OF NEW ORLEA NS GET A W A Y Enjoy deluxe accommodations for two, $10 0 gift voucher for Drago's Seafood Restaurant, and breakfast for two in W ellingtons the following morning. For room reservations please visit hilton.com or call 60 1-957-280 0

1001 East County Line Road | Jackson | MS 39211 | USA

ON VIEW SEPTEMBER 26, 2015 – JANUARY 10, 2016

Traveler. Trailblazer. Teacher. Mississippi Master. CELEBRATING THE 125TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARTIST’S BIRTH Marie Hull (1890-1980), Bright Fields (detail), 1967. oil on canvas. Collection of the Mississippi Museum of Art. Mississippi Art Association purchase. 1972.008.

Cost: $10 adults, $8 seniors, $5 students. FREE children 5 and under, FREE FOR MUSEUM MEMBERS Also on view

On the Road with Marie Hull

unseen sketchbooks from the artist’s far-flung travels

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BECOME A MEMBER VISIT MSMUSEUMART.ORG Bright Fields: The Mastery of Marie Hull is sponsored by

380 SOUTH LAMAR STREET JACKSON,MISSISSIPPI 39201 601.960.1515 1.866.VIEWART @MSMUSEUMART

On the Road with Marie Hull is sponsored by Dea Dea and Dolph Baker READLEGENDS.COM • 21

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STORY FROM CLEVELAND, MISS.

24 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

COVER STORY

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“ … You might say it all started right here.” - B.B.King

ven in the 1800s, the cradle of the blues was a mighty big one. Back then, Dockery Farms, off Highway 8 in Cleveland, Mississippi, boasted more than 40 square miles and was home to more than 3,000 workers. The sprawling plantation had its own churches, hospitals, post office, schools, even currency. “It was basically self-sufficient,” said Bill Lester, director for the Foundation for American Music. “William Dockery came in and cut the big trees for timber and burned the trash that was left and started raising cows and cotton. Part of the reason for that is because it was so isolated. It’s only five miles from Cleveland and five miles from Ruleville, but that’s a long way to walk through the woods.” In fact, there wasn’t a paved road leading to Dockery until 1948. But that’s not what put Dockery Farms on the map. Amid the farm’s thousands of residents, the blues took root like kudzu. Charley Patton, Pop Staples, Muddy Waters and others taught and learned the blues right there on the steps of Dockery’s commissary, just at the top of the hill where a path slopes down to the Sunflower River. “Blues scholars have traced the musical lineage of a lot of the big timers through Dockery Farms. There are lots of places that claim to be the birthplace of the blues, but B.B. King himself said it was right here at Dockery,” Lester said. “A lot of people know a lot of stuff, but I counted on B.B. to know the most.” The cradle of the blues burned in the ‘60s. The wide commissary steps survived, but now it’s as if they lead into the thick Delta woods. Its inhabitants dissipated, but the Dockery family kept everything as original as they could. Many of the buildings seem untouched, and the roadside service station is as bright as nickel plating. The place sort of pops up out of nowhere when you’re driving, even though it’s hard for anything to sneak up on you in the flat planes of the Delta. A few years ago, the family teamed up with the Foundation for American Music to revive Dockery. Lester said it’s been used regularly for private events. For students of the blues, who walk its verdant aisles, Dockery is a living marker to visit. In late May, Dockery Farms hosted folk and blues singer Rosanne Cash, along with a few other groups who set up their amps Top to bottom: Roseanne Cash performs for a packed crowd; guests enjoying the concert; Cadillac John, left, and Bill Abel.

26 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

in the parking lot of the service station, or, like Bill Abel, “Cadillac” John Nolan and Willie Archer, right on the hallowed steps of the commissary. “We’ve played a few private functions out here,” Abel said. “The first time I played here, I knew where I was at. It felt hot.” Jake Brown and his band, The Pearl Street Jumpers, agreed. “Cleveland’s really caught on over the last four or five years, and it has started here at Dockery,” Brown said. “Especially when B.B. King passed, people started paying attention.” Lester fell in love with the place as an art professor at Delta State University. He taught from 1973 until last year. He said when he moved there, he had a horse, and Dockery was the only place around with a pasture to keep it. Over the years he grew to be friends with the Dockery family and was eager to get started when they wanted to fix it up. “This is our first public event here, and we definitely don’t want it to be our last,” Lester said. “We want to keep in the spirit of the blues giants teaching others to play the music. We want it to be a music presentation place again, and maintain that education aspect of the blues.” Cash took the microphone as hundreds of onlookers poured in, the sun sinking into a canyon of kudzu behind the stage. Brown and The

“There are lots of places that claim to be the birthplace of the blues, but B.B. King himself said it was right here at Dockery.” — Bill Lester Pearl Street Jumpers packed the last of their equipment, ready to kick dust back to Jackson. “I think people are coming back to the true music,” Brown said. “If you sit down and listen, it’s got a groove like no other groove.” Abel, Cadillac John, and Willie John broke down their set, too, not to take it home, but to move it. They played the after party. Abel is a wild-looking guy, all beard and braid and denim. The steps under his feet where Muddy Waters once stood are like a footnote to the main stage, with its spotlights and opening act, the lead singer raving about READLEGENDS.COM •

turning Dockery into one of the juke joints of old. Abel isn’t as sure as Brown about the future of the blues. “Some people here are more into blues functions than blues music,” he said. “Traditional music – the blues, jazz, bluegrass – doesn’t appeal to the masses. You have to remember, when it started it wasn’t traditional at all. It was new, you know?” With that, he snapped his guitar case closed. Cadillac John and Archer shouldered their instruments, and stepped out of sight on a path behind a curtain of green. L

28 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

THE CRYSTAL GRILL

�� Located in Historic Greenwood, MS since 1930.

Open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 423 Carrollton Ave | Greenwood, MS

(662) 453-6530

www.crystalgrillms.com

READLEGENDS.COM •

30 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

STORY FROM CORINTH, MISS.

A STEP THROUGH TIME Borroum’s Drug Store and Soda Fountain BY RILEY MANNING PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE WORTHEM

orroum’s Drug Store and At age 89, Camille still runs the Soda Fountain is the oldest pharmacy each day. Her son, Lex family-run pharmacy and Mitchell, and his wife, Debbie, soda fountain in the state – quite handle the fountain, food and candy possibly even in the country. shop. To step inside the downtown Lex marks the sixth generation Corinth drugstore is to step back in Borroum to helm the store. His antime. Age-blackened guns and goods cestor opened Borroums at the end line the walls in cases, along with of the Civil War. The story goes that hundreds of arrowheads, Civil War after Dr. Andrew Jackson Borroum, relics and a red wagon made out of a surgeon, was released from a YanCoca Cola crates. Other memorabilkee prison camp, he encountered an ia, like antique figurines, smile down old friend on his way home to Oxon customers from their shelves. ford. The friend convinced him to Each day at noon, Borrums bestay in Corinth and open a practice. Camille Borroum Mitchell in her Corinth drug store and soda fountain. comes the center of life in this north The pharmacy naturally followed. Mississippi town known for its Civil That was in 1865. War history. People line the long lunch counter and dine on “It’s different,” Lex said. “You step in here, you can see hamburgers, rib-eye sandwiches and slugburgers, a deep fried the way life used to be like, and the way the place has alsoy and beef patty invented during the Great Depression with ways been.” added ingredients to make the beef go further (There is an Borroum’s accepts only cash or checks. The faded green entire festival built around this burger.) The bonafide malted Formica counter table tops show worn spots characterized milkshakes are also a staple, as is the Cornbread Salad. by years of use – but one can hardly deny their comfort. “The cash register is from 1926,” said owner Camille Camille has worked at Borroum’s her whole life, taking Borroum Mitchell. “We got broken into a few years ago, over in the 1960s. She said she started at the bottom of the and it was damaged. When I called to see if they would chain, washing dishes after mentioning she wanted a job. refurbish it, the man said he wouldn’t know replacement “I didn’t like it, but that’s the way it was. If you asked parts for something that old even if he did see it. My son for something you got it,” she said. “After a while, I asked put some light gun oil on it and got it working again.” for a different job and they put me on the register, then in READLEGENDS.COM •

the pharmacy, which is what I wanted all along. Didn’t take long to find out it was a job nobody wanted. Those aloes and powders are volatile, they get in your nose and eyes.” But she liked it. She still keeps the original brass scales behind the register. The pharmacy hit on hard times in the 1970s after its look had changed from an art-deco feel. The fountain had become overwhelming for Camille. “I had a choice. I could close ... or we could change our way of thinking,” Camille said. “I wanted to take it back to the ‘50s and ‘60s. Everyone was working then, everything was made here, crime was low. It was a good time, I think.” So Lex helped put the old wood back up. They took the fountain to Chicago to be refurbished. “It looked so strange without its clothes,” Camille said. Business stayed afloat with the help of Lex and Debbie, who stepped in during the 1990s to run the restaurant portion of the store. Camille wrote a bit for The Commercial Appeal, and did a profile on the store. When the article came out, a group of pilots dined in the store and asked to take it with them. Six months later, a group of Australian tourists showed up at Borroum’s door, having read about it while coming over on those pilots’ planes. It might be surprising how closely an independent pharmacy in an old Civil War town gets to know its clientele. For one thing, they deliver. If an order is wrong, Camille shows up at the customer’s house to make it right. If someone takes the wrong pill in the middle of the night, they

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have someone to call. “Even when people get their medications mail ordered, lots of times they come by here to ask how to take it,” she said. “You can just explain things to people better.” Lex and Debbie said they don’t see Camille going anywhere, and neither is Borroum’s. Nearing 90, Camille said she couldn’t imagine doing anything different. “I think what makes Borroum’s special is how comfortable people are here. It’s very relaxed. Some of our regulars serve themselves their coffee,” she said. “I think there will always be a place for a place like this.” L DID YOU KNOW? Borroum’s Drug Store has a museum area where visitors can find on display some of the original cobalt blue dispensing bottles the pharmacy once used with gold leaf labels and medicinal names in Latin. Pharmaceutical scales with amethyst balances, medicines and other antique paraphernalia, including a tiny mid-wife spoon for measuring portions of medicines, can also be seen. For more information, visit borroumsdrugstore.com. Clockwise, Borroum’s Soda Fountain serves up old-fashioned hand-made milkshakes and malts created with original blenders; ice cream treats are sold throughout the day at the soda fountain, where lunch-hour crowds pack tables; Mitchell still uses her original cash register; visitors pack the lunch counter for a burger or steak; the walls tell the tale of the store’s post Civil War beginnings.

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STORY FROM HORN LAKE, MISS.

Construction and renovation will soon be underway on the Horn Lake honeymoon hideaway of Priscilla and Elvis Presley, slated to become an international Mississippi tourist destination for Elvis aficionados and fans.

y the time Elvis Presley married Priscilla Ann Beaulieu in 1967, the international superstar was constantly in the media spotlight. Despite his best efforts to make their wedding a private function at a rented home in Palm Springs, California, the media learned of their plans and the wedding was clandestinely relocated to the Aladdin Hotel in Las Vegas, where they were married in the private suite of the hotel’s owner, Milton Prell. The press, however, attended the reception. On their wedding day, Elvis and Priscilla wore matching Circle G rings.

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“The bride and groom cut a six-tiered wedding cake,” wrote Jeff Rice in the Las Vegas Sun the next day. “Presley wore a black brocade silk tuxedo and western boots, while Priscilla wore a floor-length wedding gown of her own design: white silk chiffon, with beaded yoke, trimmed in seed pearls and topped with a three-foot tulle veil secured by a rhinestone crown.” Guests feasted on ham, eggs, lobster, fried chicken, oysters Rockefeller and champagne, among other fare. The couple reportedly danced to “Love Me Tender.” After a brief press conference, the two returned to Palm Springs

A newly married Elvis and Priscilla Presley fled to their ranch in Horn Lake, Mississippi, following their whirlwind Las Vegas honeymoon. Back then, the ranch was situated on a narrow two-lane road in the country, not the bustling thoroughfare it is today. The Circle G Ranch will soon undergo renovation as an international tourist destination. (Photo by Bob Flora © Bettmann/CORBIS)

for a few days, then back to Memphis. Seeking to escape the limelight, they fled to Elvis’ Circle G Ranch, just south of town in Horn Lake, Mississippi. Elvis had found the spot while on a motorcycle ride one day, and inspired by the 55foot white cross looming over the ranch (then called Twinkletown Farm), purchased it immediately from

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Top to bottom: Aside from the boarded windows, the honeymoon cottage where Elvis and Priscilla lived for two years following their Las Vagas wedding still looks pretty much today as it did then; the ranch’s 14-acre lake will get a renovation as the water themed Dancing Waters attraction; the “E” for Elvis, situated on his former barbecue pit, still remains, but the “P” has since crumbled with time; the original horse stalls still remain and will be upgraded to accommodate an equine therapy program.

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owner Jack Adams. He paid $437,000. The newlyweds stayed in the small, red brick ranch house that still sits at the intersection of Goodman Road and Highway 301. It was immediately dubbed the “honeymoon cottage,” and aside from the boarded up windows, looks pretty much the same as it did in the late ‘60s. The property featured a horse barn where Elvis kept some of his most beloved horses, as well as a lake backed by 150 acres of rolling pastureland. In short order, Elvis bought a fleet of pickup trucks, riding equipment, farming gear and a small herd of cattle for his new ranch. In time, a full staff developed, as well as additional living quarters for Elvis’ friends and employees—the famed Memphis Mafia, who also received their own horses. A custom-made brick barbeque pit was installed with the initials “EP” emblazoned on the top. Today the E still sits, but the P has crumbled with time. The cross also remains, but is now weathered. And a prized possession – Elvis’ wedding band – also still remains on the property. Shortly after he and Priscilla were married, the ring became loose on his finger. Elvis tied it to a bandana around his neck so he wouldn’t lose it while working on the ranch, but it fell off unnoticed and was never recovered. By 1972, Elvis had sold the property, which over the years has been home to a Mexican restaurant, a florist, and most recently, a cattle farm. Elvis aficionados have known about the ranch and made pilgrimages to the location. In recent years, tales of trespassers coming on to the property to remove bricks from the barbecue pit as keepsakes, or even to grind up and sell on eBay, have surfaced. Much of the property has fallen under disrepair, including the honeymoon cottage, although the grounds are now kept and security is constantly present. The much needed attention has come from its newest investor, Buddy Runnels Jr. In 2012, the Hattiesburg native and lifelong Destin, Florida, resident, who headed a group of investors, sought to refurbish the property and develop it as a

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proper destination for Elvis fans. Circle G will be a place of fun and freedom with activity and life for “I remember thinking how incredibly beautiful the property was people from all walks of life, from ages 3 to 103.” and how meaningful the peaceful essence of the cross made me feel,” he In honor of Elvis’ legacy of generosity, charity work will be a major said, describing the first time he visited the property. aspect of the Circle G, including equine therapy for children and adults Phase I plans for the Circle G Ranch – rumored to be named for eithrough the Lilybell Hope Foundation, a Hebron Farms program for ther Graceland or Elvis’ mother, adults with autism and an event Gladys – include renovation of through Col. Oliver North’s “Seeking to escape the limelight, they fled to the honeymoon cottage, barbeFreedom Alliance to provide cue pit and bridge that spans its college scholarships to the chilElvis’ Circle G Ranch, just south of town in 14-acre lake and construction of dren of fallen soldiers and donaHorn Lake, Mississippi. Elvis had found the a small stage with a grass amphitions to the Fellowship of Christheater to accommodate crowds tian Athletes. spot while on a motorcycle ride one day, and of up to 500. Plans also include a Kim Terrell, the executive diinspired by the 55-foot white cross looming over multimedia water, light and murector of DeSoto County Toursic show at the lake called Dancthe ranch, purchased it immediately from owner ism, remembers when Gooding Waters. man Road was just a narrow Jack Adams. He paid $437,000.” While the music menu inlane through a countryside of cludes Elvis tunes, plans are to be sparsely populated homes. Terinclusive of other Mississippi greats – such as B.B. King – and appeal to rell’s family property, Thunder Hill Ranch, backed up to Elvis’, although all ages. Through Elvis’ legacy, Runnels said, the ranch will reflect the at the time having Elvis for a neighbor was really no big deal, she said. freedom and peace Elvis and Priscilla experienced while living there. “We’d have cousins come into town and take pictures in front of “Based under that foundation, the Circle G will honor the values the gate,” she said. “Once they sent a pony over from the Circle G that that are reflected by the cross, but will also be a place to help so many needed to be broken. My dad and I broke the pony for Elvis.” people with special needs, to military families and more,” he said. “The The excitement today is from the international attention the ranch

This 55-foot white cross inspired Elvis to purchase the Ranch on Goodman Road as a hideaway.

will bring her county, Terrell said. “It will be a great economic boon for Horn Lake and Walls, too. It’ll give us an opportunity to be an international market, what we’re lovingly calling the Elvis Triangle, from Graceland in Memphis to the Birthplace in Tupelo to the Circle G in Horn Lake,” she said. “By the initial reaction it’s going to be something else. We’re going to have more international travelers than we’ve ever seen. People will stay, shop, eat. If there is a hotel built on the property it will be a win-win situation all around.” Developers plan to finish Phase I of the renovation by summer of 2016, which means that nearly 50 years after Elvis and Priscilla began their lives together there, the Circle G Ranch can once again become a refuge, this time for his devoted fans. “It is a confirmation to the answer of prayer that was made there at the cross at my first visit to the ranch,” Runnels said. “We are humbled by the opportunity as well as the acceptance and support we have received from the City of Horn Lake and all of North Mississippi. It is so meaningful for me to come back to my home state and create such a unique, special experience for people to enjoy for years to come.” L WANT TO KNOW MORE? Keep up with the development of the Circle G Ranch, or enter to win a piece of the Circle G, at circlegranch.com.

Elvis Presley working his Circle G Ranch. (Photo courtesy of Russ Howe).

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STORY FROM TUPELO, MISS.

By Kara Martinez Bachman Mary Pat Van Epps is quick to explain the difference between a true Elvis Presley tribute artist and the deservedlymaligned “impersonator.” The impersonator – sporting polyester shirts, tennis shoes and stick-on sideburns – gives Elvis a bad name, said the Memphis resident, who for the past twenty years has made a hobby of spotting the real thing from a fake. “They’re fine at karaoke bars, but they don’t need to be out representing Elvis,” she said. Most tribute performers are Elvis aficionados and want to honor Elvis in a respectful and professional way, she said.

(Photograph by Ken Flynt, LEGENDS)

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Bill Cherry, left, won First Place at the Tupelo preliminaries in 2009 and is credited with being the first tribute artist to win ultimate titles in both Tupelo and Memphis the same year. Right, Tupelo in June never has a shortage of Elvis tribute artists as each year they flock there for the annual Elvis Presley Festival, which includes an Elvis tribute competition. (Photograph by Ken Flynt, LEGENDS)

The first tribute artist to be sanctioned by Elvis’ family was a Texan named Johnny Harra. Harra gained traction as the prominent Elvis tribute act shortly after Elvis passed away in 1977. He portrayed Presley in the 1982 film, “This is Elvis,” and is reported to have still been gigging in 2011, just two weeks before he, himself, passed away. Bassist Ronnie Goss of Meridian remembers him well; his band toured with Harra back in the 1980s. Goss said the backing band had no official name for the tour, but often performed at the time with the name “Statesboro.” He said the group had been playing together for a year or so when a promoter approached them about doing some dates with Harra. Audiences in both Meridian and Memphis were receptive to the show, he said. Women often followed Harra around, and fans literally fought for the silk scarves Harra handed audience members at shows, much like Elvis would have. “He played the part well,” Goss said. “He had the voice, the outfit, the teddy bears, the scarves … ” Goss said his stories from the road are too wild to share and admits “the van was a little too rock ‘n’ roll for the show. We weren’t quite pure enough for some people.” There is photographic proof of Harra’s affect on audiences. “Somebody found three videos on YouTube of the concert we did in Memphis, converted from 8 mm,” he said. The sound and video quality aren’t great, but the old films show how the audience enjoyed Harra’s depiction of the music idol. “You can see the enthusiasm of the audience,” he said. “I’m not sure if he actually pegged Elvis, but it was real close.” Van Epps was a college student when Elvis served his famous stint in the Army. Then she started a family and never had an opportunity to see him in a live show. She had always loved his music, especially the

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ballads “Love me Tender” and “The Wonder of You,” but it wasn’t until her children were grown that she had time for what has now become a major devotion. “I was not a lunatic until about 22 years ago,” laughed Van Epps, now in her late 60s. “I went to Graceland … I’d never been to Graceland.” Since then, she has accumulated a huge collection of Elvis-themed collectibles. She has a room filled floor to ceiling with memorabilia. Hanging in the room is also a collection of colorful scarves she’s been given over the years by various tribute performers. One favorite is Bill Cherry, winner of the 2009 Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist competition, held each year at Graceland during Elvis Week (this year’s event is scheduled for August 8 through 16). With preliminary rounds officially sanctioned by Elvis Presley Enterprises and held at spots across the United States and abroad, competitors are chosen who will then move on to the final August showdown in Memphis. Cherry won at the Tupelo preliminaries in 2009 and is credited with being the first tribute artist to win the ultimate titles at both the Tupelo and Memphis competitions in the same year. For Cherry, winning the contest set in motion a career that has earned him accolades. He’s been recognized by Time magazine as one of the 10 best, and has been given the “Heart of the King” award by the Las Vegas Hilton, where Elvis himself performed. Cherry is now with the “Elvis Lives Tour,” sponsored by Legends in Concert out of Las Vegas. Cherry said he “grew up” with the King. His father was a minister; his mom loved Elvis. “We watched Elvis movies, and after, I’d grab an Elvis record off the rack and go into the other room and start to sing the songs,” Cherry said. “I started singing to the records as young as six years old.” By around age 12, he would do a little mock show at home. He’d

tupelo.net

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don jeans, a white button-down shirt, and would spray “something” in his then-blonde hair to color it black. He’d make a grand entrance down the hallway, and his father would craft a spotlight from a flashlight. “He’d actually shake it to make it like a strobe light,” Cherry reminisced. “All my life it’s kind of been a part of me … but I didn’t come out of the closet until later.” He spent years honing his craft, paying attention to vocal details and trying to understand the way Elvis operated. “Elvis’ movements onstage were not choreographed like Michael Jackson’s,” he said. “When he moved, it’s just because he felt like it. The thing for me is basically relax and let it flow, that’s what Elvis did.” Cherry’s “coming out” as a tribute performer happened in the ‘80s, when he began to do smaller competitions not affiliated with the Presley estate. He stopped in 1995 because he felt Elvis’ image – a polyesterclad, overweight singer – had gotten out of hand. “It became to me like a joke,” he said. “With my love for Elvis, I didn’t want to be affiliated with that crowd.” Then Cherry was laid off from his full-time job as a welder at a steel foundry. A friend talked him into launching his tribute artist career. By 2009, he had won the ultimate title. “It was like a domino effect … I won the contest, and I’ve been doing this ever since.” Performers each year emulate the moves and tunes of the King at preliminaries such as the Tupelo Elvis Festival. The 2015 Tupelo contest, held June 4-7, was won by Brazilian attorney Diogo Leichtweis. The event included tribute artists from six states and four countries, and drew a crowd of 10,000 during its 4-day festival. “We call it the Elvis world, the Elvis family,” Van Epps said. “Elvis people understand Elvis people. We understand the gift that he was from God … this is my fun, and I enjoy sitting in the front row and getting scarves.” Van Epps said she’s done a few zany things. She made a YouTube video with a friend giving lessons to “the elderly” in how to win over tribute artists and score a scarf. As with any good tribute artist, Cherry gets his share of devotion.

He is flattered at the excitement of his audience, and recalled the time a senior citizen fell over after he gave her a scarf from onstage. “If they want my autograph, I’m honored, but I think, ‘Who am I?’ Why do they want my autograph?” he said. Elvis is still powerful, even nearly four decades after his death, Cherry said. “I think it’s almost become religious,” he said, adding that even Elvis would be surprised by the legacy he created. One tribute artist he knew was accused of visiting Elvis’ Memorial Garden grave site more often than his own father’s. “My only concern is that years down the road, the image of Elvis does not get diluted so much that we forget what he was about,” Cherry said. “Lord knows,” said Van Epps, “We all can sing along to every single song. I hope it never goes away. It would be a loss to the world.” L DID YOU KNOW? 1. When Elvis was a child, his favorite tune was “Old Shep,” of which he constantly sang. A promoter told young Evlis he could perform in the Tupelo Talent Competition as long as he didn’t play the song. He entered, and played “Old Shep.” Years later, he recorded the song, then phoned the same promoter and boasted his million dollar sale of the tune. 2. Elvis bought Graceland in 1957, the day after proposing to his then-girlfriend in Biloxi, Mississippi. She turned him down. He was 22 years old at the time and paid $102,500 for the mansion. 3. Col. Tom Parker, his manager, used to be a carnival barker. Parker, referred to as “The Colonel,” was a colorful figure in his own right. Prior to representing Presley, he worked as a pitch man for traveling carnivals, as a dogcatcher, and even founded a pet cemetery. 4. Elvis read fan mail at the end of the day while employed in Germany with the Army as a Jeep driver. 5. Elvis never gigged outside of North America. Aside from a handful of shows in Canada, Elvis never performed on foreign soil. Theaters and dance halls throughout, Mississippi, though, boast of his performances. 6. Angry fans in Nashville and St. Louis literally lit Elvis figurines on fire after his gyrating performance on The Ed Sullivan Show. 7. Elvis owned the 165-foot-long yacht once owned by President Frankin D. Roosevelt. He wound up donating the boat to St. Jude’s Hospital in one of his many acts of charity. Elvis tribute artists have existed since the mid-1950s, shortly after the beloved singer began his career. Today, those artists make a living from copying his voice and revolutionary dance moves. (Photograph by Ken Flynt, LEGENDS)

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Go to www.visitcolumbusms.org for complete attraction and event listings. READLEGENDS.COM •

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STORY FROM NATCHEZ, MISS.

t’s nestled like a crowned jewel on the Natchez hillside. That’s exactly the effect the home’s builder, cotton baron Dr. Haller Nutt, had in mind in 1859 when he bought the land as a surprise gift for his wife, Julia, and hired Philadelphia architect Samuel Sloan to design and build a six story, 30,000 square-foot mansion. Nutt had made a fortune and wanted a home that reflected that fact. While that never happened in his lifetime, the legacy of Longwood lives on today as the unfinished architectural masterpiece that draws thousands of visitors annually. The historic house museum is open year-round and remains a huge draw for Natchez’ Fall Pilgrimage, an annual threeweek antebellum home tour slated to run September 25 through October 12. The octagon-shaped Oriental Villa, dubbed “Nutt’s Folly,” is the largest of its kind in America. It is one of only six octagonal homes in the country to be designated as a National Historic Landmark. Longwood has

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been featured in Bob Vila’s Guide to Historic Homes of America on the A&E network, and in 2010, was featured in the HBO series True Blood as the fictional mansion of Russell Edgington, the Vampire King of Mississippi and Louisiana. The unfinished Natchez home epitomizes the rise and fall of the South, as the war brought the Nutt family’s wealth and dominance, as well as the last burst of Southern opulence, to an end. Beneath the magnitude of its million-plus brick facade – all of which were made on the grounds of the estate – and its majestic Byzantine onion-shaped dome, Longwood’s half-finished upper level interior remains as a monument to the break of the Civil War, when hired northern artisans literally dropped their tools, collected their pay and fled home as news of the war hit Mississippi. The completed house was to have had 32 rooms, 26 fireplaces, 115 doors and 96 columns, but when work was halted in 1861,

only nine rooms of the 10,000 square-foot lower level were completed. According to modern-day docent accounts, Nutt moved his family into the basement for safety. As a Northern sympathizer, he was awarded papers to protect the property for which he had originally paid $12,000 and invested more than $80,000 in 18 months. Little by little, his cotton crops, equipment and cotton gins were burned nevertheless. On June 15, 1864, Nutt died in the basement of his beloved Longwood mansion. The official cause of death was pneumonia, but leg-

“The upper five stories have remained just as they were left more than 150 years ago – a dust-covered magnificent work in progress, tools and materials still scattered about, just as they were left in the wake of the workers’ wartime exodus.”

“

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end has it that he died of a broken heart over his unfinished dream house. Afterwards, Julia Nutt and their children continued to live in the finished basement. She died in 1897 and was buried beside her husband in the Longwood family cemetery. Also said to be buried with the family is a slave who was purchased as a young boy by Haller Nutt’s father to be his playmate. Growing up with Haller and later becoming his man servant, the servant remained with the Nutt family long after Haller’s death – even as a free man. He is said to have been only one of two slaves on record to be so highly regarded by his owners that the family commissioned his portrait to be done in oils. The Nutt’s grandchildren owned Longwood until 1968. To this day, the basement floor still houses many of the family’s original furnishings. The upper five stories have remained just as they were left more than 150 years ago – a dust-covered magnificent work in progress, tools and materials still scattered about, just as they were left in the wake of the workers’ wartime exodus. But the legend of Longwood doesn’t end there. “They say that when you visit Longwood,

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if the ghost of Mr. Nutt likes you, you’ll be able to find a square nail on the grounds,” said Keri Horn of Fannin, who found not one, but two square nails on a visit to the plantation last year. “And if the ghost of Julia Nutt likes you, they say you’ll be able to smell the scent of roses on the grounds, even in the dead of winter when there are no roses,” she said. “I’ve never smelled the roses, but I know people who swear they have.” After surviving decades of neglect and near-abandonment, Longwood is now one of Natchez’ most popular attractions. Owned and operated as a historic house museum by the Pilgrimage Garden Club of Natchez, Longwood is one of three museum houses on the Fall Pilgrimage Tour, where 19 antebellum mansions – most of which are private residences – open their doors for historic costumed tours. Longwood’s screened in upper level rotunda is also the site for two American Music concerts slated October 1 and 8. The two evenings of American folk, spiritual, blues and jazz music will feature New Orleans performance guitarist and jazz composer Daniel Schroeder.

“There a lot of rich history here in Natchez. It’s a very unique place,” said Lynn Beach Smith, sales director for Natchez Pilgrimage Tours. Longwood’s unusual edifice draws hundreds of visitors on a weekly basis, and thousands annually. The museum is open 365 days a year, she said. “On any day of the week, any month of the year, we have people from all over the world here to see these beautiful plantation homes. Longwood’s architecture makes it one of the grandest and most spectacular, even unfinished as it is.” L WANT TO GO? Natchez’ Fall Pilgrimage is slated for September 25 through October 12. The tour includes 19 antebellum mansions with costumed guides, usually family members who are descendants of the original owners. Each house is unique with 18th and 19th century furnishings, porcelain, silver, clothing, tools, documents and diaries. For more information, visit natchezpilgrimage.com Below, scenes from Longwood’s interior show where Union construction workers stopped work on the Natchez mansion at the onset of the Civil War. Many of the home’s original belongings remain, including Julia Nutt’s carriage.

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STORY FROM ARKANSAS, MISSISSIPPI AND MEMPHIS, TENN.

BLUES ON TAP Mighty Mississippi Music Fest rings in 17-day pilgrimage By ADRIENNE DISON

t’s a two-week music pilgrimage that brings locals and travelers together for blues literally every night of the week across three states. In its fourth year, Bridging the Blues runs a constant stream of blues-related events in Mississippi, Arkansas, and Memphis, Tennessee. Anchored by the internationally-renowned King Biscuit Blues Festival – celebrating its 30th anniversary in Helena, Arkansas October 7-10 – BTB draws thousands of blues enthusiasts from abroad, many returning yearly from Paris, Liverpool and Amsterdam – even as far as India and Australia. “There are so many festivals and events happening here and all around us throughout the fall,” said Wesley Smith, BTB chairman and executive director of Greenville-Washington County CVB. “When I first came here, I said there has got to be a way to cull all of this into a big regional thing. And for international tourists, those who come to stay 10 days or longer, I thought, ‘How happy would they be if we tied it all together?’”

And so, the BTB project was born. In its three years, BTB has expanded its initial 58 events to 250. “The word is spreading, and we are continuing to grow,” Smith said. “It’s hard to find live entertainment on a Monday or Tuesday night any other time of year, but it’s happening every night during Bridging the Blues. It’s like Mardi Gras.” The second of BTB’s signature events is The Mighty Mississippi Music Festival, slated for Oct. 2-4 in Greenville, Mississippi. Staged on the riverfront Warfield Point Park, this three-day event fuses with the highly-respected Highway 61 Blues Festival in nearby Leland. It has been awarded the Best Festival of the Year by the Mississippi Tourism Association. The 2015 Mighty Mississippi music lineup features Grammy-award winning Americana folk band, The Old Crow Medicine Show, backed by an all-star lineup on two stages, including the Austin, Texas-based Band of Heathens. Also slated to take the main stage are Southern favorites Steve Azar, Jason Fratesi & The Dirt Road Jam Band, L.C. Ulmer, Kudzu Kings, The Cedric Burnside Project, Jimbo Mathus and the Tri-State Coalition, Goodpaper of Rev. Rob Mortimer, Goofy Boots and Basement Brew. “We also have a big jumbotron so SEC football fans can watch their games between the stages and still enjoy the music throughout the day,” said festival organizer Jamie Murrell. “This way, nobody has to miss out, and everyone can enjoy the best of both worlds.” The Highway 61 Blues Stage will feature a lineup of local and regional blues favorites, including Libby Rae Watson, Terry “Harmonica” Bean, Pat Thomas, Eddie Cusic, Bill Abel, The Old Crow Medicine Show will headline The Mighty Mississippi Music Festival Oct. 2-4 at Greenville’s Warfield Point Park. The 3-day event incorporates the Highway 61 Blues Festival, featuring Super Chikan and the Fighting Cocks.

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(Photo by Marianne Todd/LEGENDS)

L.C. Ulmer, above, and Kudzu Kings, left, will both grace the stage at The Mighty Mississippi Music Festival in Greenville, Mississippi.

Emphrey, who was B.B. King’s drummer for 25 years. “He started at Coleman High School in Greenville and has played a lot with blues legends that made the music a part of history, like Albert King, Freddie King and Little Milton,” Johnson said.

Want to go?

(Photo by Joe Worthem/LEGENDS)

Super Chikan and the Fighting Cocks and more. “We’re offering a sampling of all the different genres of Mississippi blues,” said Billy Johnson, who serves as the booking agent for the Highway 61 fest. “You can hear all the different strings of blues in one weekend here. A lot of the older blues artists aren’t able to travel like they used to, but they’re still on top of their game. Bridging the Blues gives these musicians plenty of venues to play and offers visitors plenty to do between festivals, no matter which way they’re traveling.” The 2015 BTB event is dedicated to Johnny Winter, a Leland native who carried Mississippi blues music around the world, and Calep

All Bridging the Blues events and activities are slated for September 25 through October 11. Tickets and reservations for The Mighty Mississippi Music Festival can be purchased online at mightymississippimusicfestival.com. Other BTB festivals and events include the annual Pinetop Perkins Homecoming, honoring the Delta piano great at Hopson Plantation in Clarksdale, Mississippi; the Sam Chatmon Blues Festival in Hollandale, Mississippi; the Holly Ridge Blues Jam in Holly Ridge, Mississippi; and a tour of Dockery Plantation, regarded as the birthplace of the blues. For a complete list of Bridging the Blues events, visit bridgingtheblues.com. Visitors also are encouraged to explore the region on their own, tracking down the gravesites of blues legends like Robert Johnson and Charley Patton, or exploring the 175 markers of the Mississippi Blues Trail. READLEGENDS.COM •

STORYFROM FROMHELENA, HELENA,ARK. ARK. STORY

What Time Is It?

Kentucky HeadHunters, Bobby Rush to headline King Biscuit Blues Fest iscuit heads this fall will again dust off their camping gear in anticipation of the 30th Annual King Biscuit Blues Festival in the historic Mississippi River city of Helena, Arkansas. While Southern street food, a barbecue cook-off and 5k run are slated as part of the three-day event, guests come mostly for blues music. Inspired by the legendary music KFFA-AM radio show, King Biscuit Time, the event is slated this year for October 8-10. Hardcore Biscuit heads love the camaraderie of the campgrounds on the inside of the levee, but those who prefer a more pampered setting will want to book accommodations now as the small town fills each year with tens of thousands

The internationally acclaimed Taj Mahal will take the main stage as Saturday’s headliner. Mahal, who delivers a stunning performance based on decades of recording and touring, is credited with reshaping the definition and scope of the blues via the infusion of exotic sounds from the Caribbean, Africa and South Pacific. Mahal is a two-time Grammy-winning singer, songwriter, film composer, guitarist and multiinstrumentalist. Last year he received the Lifetime Achievement for Performance award at the 13th Annual Americana Honors and Awards. “I’ve been performing for over 50 years, and to be recognized for the road I’ve traveled means the world to me,” Mahal said. Tourists to Helena can walk from stage to stage down the

of visitors. Kicking off the weekend is The Kentucky HeadHunters with their brand of country-rock blues, along with the funky sounds of Bobby Rush. The festival lineup also features the syrupy deep rhythm and blues

bustling streets of the historic river city while smelling sweet corn roasting and jambalaya simmering and listening to street performers, who are welcome to post up anywhere along the sidewalk. Many remember favorite street performers such as “Butch” Mudbone, one-man-band

sounds of artists such as Sweet Angel and Lucky Peterson. Friday’s lineup also features Super Chikan, a blues musician hailing from Clarksdale, Mississippi, who makes all of his own instruments. Blues legends Jimmie Vaughan (The Fabulous Thunderbirds) and Lou

Richard Johnston and Valerie June. June began as a street performer at King Biscuit, but today is a high-in-demand American entertainer, so keep a close eye for these unassuming performers.

Ann Barton will take the main stage on Friday night with Texas-style powerhouse blues. The son of blues legend Junior Kimbrough, David Kimbrough, is slated to perform Saturday on the main stage.

Want to go? Visit kingbiscuitfestival.com for a complete lineup and ticket and event information.

BY WARREN HINES

56 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

Greenville-Washington County is home to the Mississippi Delta Blues & Heritage Festival–the longest running blues festival in the country, the award-winning Mighty Mississippi Music Festival, a bluesman who played for a US president, the Highway 61 Blues Museum, Mississippi Blues Trail markers and many other experiences you’ll never forget. Opening of “Cast of Blues” by Sharon McConnell-Dickerson at Roger D. Malkin Gallery mcconnelldickersonart.com/blues-lifecast

M.A.C.E. Delta Blues Week deltamace.org

38th Annual Mississippi Delta Blues & Heritage Festival deltablues.org

Hollandale Sam Chatmon Blues Festival

facebook.com/SamChatmonBlues

3rd Annual Mighty Mississippi Music Festival mightymsmusic.com

September 11th

September 14th -18th September 19th September 25th - 26th October 2nd - 4th

Greenville - Washington County proudly supports Bridging the Blues. September 25 - October 11, 2015 • For more information, visit bridgingtheblues.com

www.visitgreenville.org 1-800-467-3582

Convention & Visitors Bureau READLEGENDS.COM •

58 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

STORY FROM NEW ORLEANS, LA.

Southern chefs increasingly incorporate foraged foods into menus, bringing diners new regional ingredients that also speak to culinary traditions of the past.

y 94-year-old grandmother laughed at the notion of foraged food with a fine dining price tag. “Twenty dollars for poke salat?” “Nine dollars for a middling portion of blackberry cobbler? (It was locally foraged from a regional purveyor and topped with house-made Madagascar vanilla bean ice cream.) We’ve come a long way from previous generations’ notion of living off the land. For country people who grew up hunting, gathering and gardening, foraging represents part of a connection to the seasons and to the past. Particularly for poor Southerners, foraging offered nutritious additions to a diet sometimes limited to what grew nearby. That changed as refrigeration came to most homes in the region. “Most of what we ate, we grew, or we found. We used to can everything. We would can leftover sausage in its own grease to have meat year-round,” says Janie Mae Holmes, my grandmother. “Things have changed a lot. There’s a Dollar General right across the street.” Today chefs see foraged foods as a way to connect to regional recipes from the past and also as a way to cook with new ingredients, textures and flavors. “For me cooking is about experimenting. I’ll work with whatever ingredient someone brings me or I can find,” says Ryan Hughes, chef at Purloo at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in READLEGENDS.COM •

New Orleans. “I’ve foraged for dandelion greens, culantro, chanterelles, kumquats … then I incorporate them into our menu,” he says. Foraging began as a necessary component of human life. During the 3,500 years of settlement in the Mississippi River Delta prior to colonization, Native Americans primarily hunted and gathered the numerous wild plants and animals in the area. Imagine the Delta when the river ran wild. People lived seasonally, anticipating booms and busts in growing cycles and migrating accordingly. The Tunica tribe lived on wild persimmons for a month each year, while Atakapa Indians traveled inland annually to feast on prickly pears. Native Americans saved seeds from the best fruit and replanted to keep wild plants abundant. Plums, blackberries, strawberries, chestnuts, pecans, sunflowers, Jerusalem artichokes and hundreds of other fruits, vegetables and berries grew, and continue to grow, in the area. Early colonists relied on local tribes’ extensive knowledge when settlement began, emulating Native American gardening and foraging practices first as a means of survival before imported European items became available. Prized Native American ingredients remain in many Cajun and Creole recipes today like corn in maque choux or filé powder in gumbo. Seafood may be the biggest culinary mainstay for coastal dwellers. The method of gathering the catch may have changed, but fresh fish has always been dearly loved. Rural Southerners continued eating wild edibles into the latter half of the 20th century, when technology and globalization changed the way many Americans thought about eating. “Everything was advancing and people could get food from anywhere. Instant gratification

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became a big part of our dining culture. We could have whatever we wanted from all over the world, quickly,” says Chris Bennett, author of “Southeast Foraging.” “By the ‘70s and ‘80s most people bought all their food at the store, and that’s what they trusted. We began to disconnect from nature,” he says. “I’m from Lafayette, Louisiana, and if you talk to older people, they still know. They’ll talk about where to find sunchokes and chanterelles and blueberries, but a lot of that knowledge is being lost,” says Lee Stafford, founder of the New Orleans Eat Local Challenge, a 30-day event challenging residents to eat only food from within a 200-mile radius of the city. “These are foods that aren’t being marketed. We want to remind people that food grows all around them, and that’s where you really find the taste of a place,” Stafford says. Stafford connected with Chef Hughes at Purloo to organize happy hours, food demos and tastings featuring local and foraged ingredients. Stafford also has organized two foraging expeditions with botanist Dr. Charles Allen to introduce residents to wild foods growing at parks in the city. “Our mission is rethinking what’s available for people to eat. City Park is one of the largest wild spaces in an urban area in the country,” he says, “you can find mushrooms, wild asparagus, berries, all kinds of food. You just have to know what to look for.” During Chef Hughes’ June 2015 foraged food demo, he spotlights the mayhaw. The berry grows from a thorny hawthorne tree, native to river bottoms and swamps. Traditionally found most often in jams and jellies, at Purloo the mayhaw flavors a gin cocktail as well as a glaze for smoked pork ribs. Several of the restaurant’s specials incorporate foraged ingredients.

A pan roasted swordfish over creole tomatoes features a purslane salsa. The pan fried frog legs from Lafitte, Louisiana, are served with roasted cauliflower and scarlett frill. The green has a spicy kick like arugula, but a different flavor profile and pleasantly unexpected tinge of bitterness. The texture is similar to a crunchy, red leaf lettuce. It’s delicious raw, as well as highly nutritious. “In the past people couldn’t just run to the store and grab some Emergen C or orange juice in the winter when they needed Vitamin C,” says Chris Bennett. “In Alabama rural people used pine needles. You’ll find old recipes for pine needle tea. It has a subtle lemon and pine flavor, and 500 times more Vitamin C than an orange. People also ate the poke weed for its high iron content, particularly in the Depression era. You really have to know what you’re doing with it because it’s poisonous without leaching the toxins out, but people used to refer to it as a springtime delicacy for hillbillies. It has a flavor similar to asparagus but stronger.” Bennett attributes some recent interest in foraging to changes in American fine dining. “Our cuisine has come a long way in ten or 15 years. I got into foraging after reading French cookbooks with chefs describing greens growing outside their front doors having flavors similar to spinach, but better. At the same time some of these ingredients began popping up in restaurants in Chicago and New York.” Restaurants in the South increasingly feature foraged foods. North Shore forager and farmer Nick Usner supplies chanterelles to Oxlot 9. Chef Erick Loos at La Provence hunts for the mushrooms on a friend’s land near the Pearl River, later supplying them to several restaurants in the Besh restaurant group. In New Orleans restaurants like Herbsaint

and Cochon employ a full time forager, looking for purveyors and farmers with unique, seasonal ingredients. Foraged foods now live dual lives. In one incarnation they are the star ingredient in fine dining cuisine. “Working seasonally with foraged ingredients presents unique challenges for kitchens because they aren’t standardized. The flavor is always changing slightly, which also makes them better,” says Loos at La Provence. “The closer something grows to you, the fresher and better the flavor.” Foraged foods also represent the culinary heritage of the South, and of rural people connected to the land around them. They fed poor, hungry people when they didn’t have much else to eat. Demos like Chef Hughes’ at Purloo connect these two identities, teaching curious people how to integrate our region’s rural foodways into their everyday lives. “Teaching people to forage and to cook with foraged foods preserves our culinary heritage,” says Stafford. “It also grounds people to be out in nature, to get your hands in the dirt.” “We used to go blackberry picking on the hills along the roadside. You can’t really do that anymore because they cut down the grass and spray,” says Holmes. It’s been at least 20 years since she has kept a garden, arthritis preventing her from that activity along with another favorite, quilting. She might not pay $9 dollars for blackberry cobbler, but most dishes featuring these ingredients are worth every penny. Local wild edibles add depth, flavor and a refreshing perspective, one which might inspire diners to go searching on their own for free varieties. While many of these ingredients have been raised to new heights, they continue to connect us to traditions of the past. L

Dr. Charles Allen, far left, leads a group in the Couturie Forest of City Park in New Orleans to discover the many kinds of wild edibles; Chef Ryan Hughes of Purloo, left, shares his knowledge of the foods of the region at a cooking demonstration using all local and foraged ingredients.

READLEGENDS.COM •

STORY FROM JACKSON, MISS.

Mississippi Rediscovers

MODERN MASTER OF VISUAL ART BY DAVID SPRAYBERRY

ust last year, Mississippi lost one arations with Belhaven University. of its modern masters and most Local artists, gallery owners and celebrated visual artists, Andrew people who love Bucci’s art rallied Bucci. Over the course of eight detogether to make the exhibition a cades, he produced a dazzling and reality. On May 29, Andrew Bucci: timeless body of work while estabRediscovered opened to the public. lishing a style that was purely his This is the first exhibition of the artown. He left behind a treasure trove ist’s work since his death and the first of artwork, one that is being redisshow exclusively presenting his work covered around the state and counin Jackson. try. The name of the exhibit was se Jack Kyle, senior director of arts lected because, “It is a fresh introdevelopment at Belhaven Univerduction to his artistic talent and sity in Jackson, became interested in serves as a catalyst to reawaken the organizing an event for Bucci after art world of Bucci’s importance as an Andrew Bucci photograph by James Patterson. meeting the artist last year during artist,” Kyle said. the USA International Ballet ComPaintings selected for this expetition in Jackson. (Bucci’s painting, Figure in Green, was sehibition reflect a range of styles over a prolific career — from lected as the signature image for the 2014 IBC commemorative Matisse-inspired still-lifes and rare family portraits to dazzling poster and program.) modernist landscapes. The exhibition, located in Belhaven’s “I was surprised to discover that although his works are in Bitsy Irby Visual Arts and Dance Center, consists of 29 oil-onpermanent collections of many major museums, he had never canvas paintings, one major work on paper and six needlepoints. had an exhibition devoted exclusively to his work in Jackson,” All of the works are from Bucci’s estate, and many are being Kyle said. displayed to the public for the first time. Bucci had begun selecting works from his personal collec “A look at Bucci’s work indicates that the artist was quite tion when he died on November 16, after a brief illness. Family impressionable,” said Erika S. Olinger, owner of Cole Pratt Galmembers wanted the exhibition to proceed and continued preplery in New Orleans. “Influences of Picasso, Braque, Matisse and

62 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

Andrew Bucci: Rediscovered runs through August 29 at Belhaven University’s Bitsy Irby Visual Arts & Dance Center on the main Jackson campus. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.buccirediscover.com.

“

Paintings selected for this exhibition reflect a range of styles over a prolific career — from Matisse-inspired still-lifes and rare family portraits to dazzling modernist landscapes.

others of the School of Paris are clearly visible.” Olinger has studied the works of Bucci and has a deep appreciation for his art. She adds, “The figure, color and landscape defined Bucci’s artistic career. As he matured in his style, these three often converged.” Bright, vivid colors are first to catch the viewer’s eye. “Bucci was enthralled with color and wanted to understand what it was about through practice and repetition,” Olinger said. “He used color to expand and push out his surfaces, as well as to contract and push inwards.” His landscape paintings are another highlight of the show. The emotional effect his paintings have on the viewer is significant, Olinger said. “Joyous, uplifting, happy, healing … these are all words that have been used to describe Bucci’s landscapes.” Andrew Bucci: Rediscovered is part of an initiative at Belhaven University to advance and support the arts called the Marie Hull Society for the Arts. The University has a notable focus on producing top artists and is one of 33 universities in the United States accredited in all four of the major arts. Bucci was influenced early in his career by Marie Atkinson Hull, who was a 1909 Belhaven (College) University graduate and one of Mississippi’s foremost artists of the 20th century. Around 1940, Bucci began taking art lessons from Hull in her home on Belhaven Street in Jackson.

Over the course of their lifetimes, they forged a mutually influential relationship that was reflected in their paintings and continues to be studied by art scholars and historians. His painting of a magnolia blossom appears on the 5-cent U.S. postage stamp issued in 1967 for the 150th anniversary of Mississippi statehood. “Art was on his mind all of the time,” said his niece, Margaret Bucci, “not just in the pieces he created, but in his manner, his conversations, his relationships – everything ordered thoughtfully and respectfully, with the ultimate goal of having no goal other than making each moment as good as it could possibly be.” L WANT TO GO? Andrew Bucci: Rediscovered runs through August 29 at Belhaven University’s Bitsy Irby Visual Arts & Dance Center on the main Jackson campus. The gallery is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.buccirediscovered.com or contact Jack Kyle, Senior Director of Arts Development & Chair, Arts Administration, Belhaven University, at (601) 968.8937.

READLEGENDS.COM •

CD REVIEW

THE JERICHO ROAD SHOW

Times Ain’t Like They Used To Be I

By DUDLEY TARDO

t’s hard to believe that in these days there are still musicians who have a direct link to some of the very artists who are credited with birthing the blues. That link is heavily witnessed in The Jericho Road Show’s latest release “Times Ain’t Like They Used To Be.” This musical collaboration, comprised of acoustic blues heavyweights Steve Gardner, Bill Steber, Libby Rae Watson and Wes Lee, offers 12 eclectic tunes performed on National Reso-Phonic resonator guitars, acoustic guitars, banjo-ukelele, tenor banjo, mandolins, harmonicas, saw, washboard, drums, spoons, jug, tuba and sousaphone. This channeling of the old masters was captured by recording engineer Nick Vitter in his New Orleans-based studio. The journey leads the listener, song by song, down a musical path that most folks these days don’t often get the pleasure of traveling. “What’s the Matter with the Mill?” made popular in 1931 by Memphis Minnie and Kansas Joe McCoy and released by Muddy Waters in 1973 as the title track of his album “Can’t Get No Grinding,” is reincarnated and rejuvenated by Gardner’s arrangement. The Robert Johnson tune “Stones in My Passway” is another classic brought to life. Bill Benfield’s mandolin work is crafty, clean and tasteful. Tuba work by Brandon Armstrong (Jake Leg Stompers, California Foot Warmers) fits the tune perfectly with bottom end and feel.

64 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

Libby Rae Watson changes the pace with an upbeat whiskey blues fueled by a pyrotechnical display on washboard courtesy Washboard Chaz. Wes Lee shows off some impressive guitar work (and his vocals aren’t too shabby either) on the original “Grey Sky Blues.” Multiinstrumentalist and vocalist Bill Steber converts Buster Brown’s “Fannie Mae” into jump blues by way of acoustic instruments. The timing and phrasing is reminiscent of some of the great jug bands. Both Gardner and Watson were friends with Sam Chatmon, whose songs with The Mississippi Shieks are still covered by The Rolling Stones and Jack White. Gardner met Chatmon in the ‘70s while working on his degree in photojournalism at the University of Southern Mississippi. His music and photography also led him to become friends with Jack Owens, Jessie Mae Hemphill, James “Son” Thomas and Booba Barnes. Gardner, who resides in Tokyo, and his stateside partner in crime, Steber, have documented the blues extensively with recordings and internationally-published photographs. Each CD is produced as part of a annual American tour. The Jericho Road show will be touring the country this summer with lots of dates in the southeastern states. This is definitely a show you’ll want to catch when they come through your area. For more information, visit stevegardner-roots-n-blues.ning.com. Want your CD reviewed? Send CDs and information sheets to Dudley Tardo, Blue South Publishing, P.O. Box 3663, Meridian, MS 39303.

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STORY FROM COVINGTON, LA.

This classic Covington, Louisiana, hotel pairs upscale, modern décor and amenities with an old world charm. BY MEGHAN HOLMES | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHUCK COOK The Southern Hotel strikes a delicate balance between the past and the present. The mission style building originally opened its doors June 1, 1907, as a respite for well-heeled New Orleanians fleeing mosquitos and humidity. During cooler months, winter-weary Yankees sought its comfort. The hotel closed in the 1960s, transitioning from general store to strip mall to government offices, until

66 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

Lisa Condrey Ward saw an opportunity to return the space to its former glory. “When I moved to Covington in 1999 and saw the building, I thought it looked like a hotel, not knowing at the time that’s what it was originally. When the Parish auctioned the property in 2011, we knew we had to do it,” says Ward, who redeveloped the historic space along with husband, Joseph Ward, and Ricky and Gayle

“For decades a rail line from New Orleans brought travelers to modern comforts advanced for the era, including electricity and spas with healing mineral water from the North Shore’s artesian wells.

“

Condrey. “To really be on the map a small town needs a hotel, and it becomes a selffulfilling prophecy, spurring further development.” Ward’s background as a historic preservationist fuels her passion for restoring buildings like the Southern Hotel, along with her vision of the building as an anchor for Covington. “I think my mother dragged me to every single Natchez pilgrimage starting when I was 6 years old,” she laughs. “I’m fascinated with the way that people lived in the past, and for the most part I feel the architecture was more beautiful.” Ward took a gap year between college and law school to complete her first renovation in her hometown of Lake Providence, Louisiana. “Historic preservation is my hobby. Some people bowl, I like to save buildings,” she says. “With this building dark at night in the middle of downtown, it felt like a black hole. Now it’s a gathering place for the community as it was in the past.” For decades a rail line from New Orleans brought travelers to modern comforts advanced for the era, including electricity and spas with healing mineral water from the North Shore’s artesian wells. As Covington grew, the hotel changed, more often accommodating guests living nearby and celebrating special occasions. “During its post WWII heyday the hotel was a hub of Covington, hosting weddings, sweet sixteens, and other community events,” says Ward. The original hotel’s most infamous visitor may have been then-governor Earl Long in 1959. Following erratic behavior and a particularly vulgar

READLEGENDS.COM •

rant during a session of the state senate, attendants from the Southeast Louisiana Hospital restrained the governor for eight days in Mandeville for psychiatric evaluation. Following his release, he gave a speech on the balcony on the second story of the Southern Hotel, famously declaring “I’m not crazy!” and ultimately being released following a series of political maneuvers at the Covington courthouse. After decades of notoriety, decline followed in the 1960s. “Once the hotel closed it became a Greyhound bus station. Then it became a dollar store. The entire front half of the building was wrapped in aluminum foil; that may have been its lowest point,” says Ward. The hotel served the latter part of the 20th century as space for government offices and courtrooms, further altering the original space’s architecture. Despite changes made by the building’s various occupants, the original exterior and much of the second story remained intact when restoration began. “We brought in Trapolin Peer as architects and Woodward Design + Build as contractors. Both firms have experience working with historic buildings. I’ve done around ten preservation projects before, but each one is different and we didn’t really know what we would be dealing with until construction began.” The redesign maintains the integrity of the original hotel while also modernizing some aspects of the space. “We took the building back to the bricks and first discovered the walls were free standing and no longer tied to the original structure. We started there, using metal rods to attach the brick to the floor beams and then basically rebuilding it. We put the corridors upstairs back where they were, maintaining the floor plan and the original windows,” says Ward. A grand fireplace continues to serve as the centerpiece of the downstairs lobby, framed in a large arch rising from thick piers characteristic of the hotel’s mission style. Abundant natural lighting enters through arched glass doorways opening to the interior courtyard, where Japanese maples surround a fountain and swimming pool. The rooms feature plush, double beds chosen by Ward as well as friends and family after months of mattress testing. “I set beds up in my living room for us to lie on,” she says. Ward spent two and half years amassing the hotel’s design elements. “At one point I had 18 full storage units and started forgetting some of my inventory. My husband said, ‘What are you going to do if you have 100 side tables and no chairs?’ but I knew in the end I would find a place for almost everything,” Ward’s décor fills the downstairs lobby as well as the hotel’s two suites, named for author Walker Percy and architect Thomas Sully. Percy raised his children in the town and is now buried at nearby St. Joseph’s Abbey. Ward suspects Sully may have designed the original hotel. “He designed a similar hotel in Gulfport around the same time as well as the Covington courthouse in 1903. I found an archived drawing of his at Tulane that looks like the building,” she says. Ward also selected the hotel’s art, which details Covington’s history and spotlights local artists. Vintage postcards and antique photographs line the

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upstairs walls while the downstairs features primarily St. Tammany residents’ paintings. “People want to have an authentic experience. Art allows them to really understand where they are, and it showcases the caliber of talent we have here,” she says. Many of the pieces reflect the natural beauty of the area. Audobon prints decorate most guest rooms and bayou scenes project calmness into the suites. An eye level painting of oxen marks the entrance to Oxlot 9, the Southern Hotel’s restaurant coowned by Chef Jeffrey Hansell and wife Amy. The cuisine highlights the abundant seafood of the Gulf Coast as well as south Louisiana’s year-round growing season. Hansell grew up in Waveland, Mississippi, cooking and eating the food he now prepares at Oxlot 9. Appetizer highlights include fried frog legs with hot sauce butter, a yellowfin tuna crudo with grapefruit and basil, as well as a pork belly yakamein with house made udon noodles topped with a poached egg. The crispy pompano entrée, with brussels sprouts and Brabant potatoes, remains surprisingly light through the use of almond flour and fresh citrus. The lamb chops with romesco and locally foraged chanterelles also stand out. The cuisine is globally influenced, with Spanish, Italian and Mexican components, but remains centered on recipes and ingredients from the Gulf Coast. “Jeffrey was cooking in Birmingham, Alabama, at Veranda and thinking about moving closer to home. We knew we wanted someone skilled, and he was a perfect match,” says Ward, who sees Oxlot 9 as an integral part of the Southern Hotel experience as well as a “destination in its own right.” Ward sees the connections between architectural design and human emotion; the ability of a space to affect the way we feel. “In the past people really understood that buildings have an emotional effect on the people that live there. How a space is scaled, the floor plan, the lighting; they all have an impact.” Her vision for the Southern Hotel stems from a hospitality rooted in the details that elevates the space above the ordinary. L

A grand fireplace continues to serve as the centerpiece of the downstairs lobby, framed in a large arch rising from thick piers characteristic of the hotel’s mission style. Abundant natural lighting enters through arched glass doorways opening to the interior courtyard, where Japanese maples surround a fountain and swimming pool.

WANT TO KNOW MORE? Visit southernhotel.com

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STORY STORYFROM FROMCOLUMBUS, COLUMBUS,MISS. MISS.

the Rockets’

Red Glare People put away their differences about which flag should fly where this Fourth of July as Americans took the day to celebrate, simply, being American. In the quaint city of Columbus, Mississippi, known for its antebellum homes and claim to Tennessee Williams’ first residence, an estimated 8,000 people flocked to the banks of the Stennis Lock and Dam on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. Guests ate American food served with American flags, rested on the riverbanks to the soulful blues of the band and watched as fireworks exploded over the water. It doesn’t get anymore American that this.

Photography by MARIANNE TODD

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in NATCHEZ s t n e v e l l fa

VISITNATCHEZ.ORG is your “go-to” source for events, shopping, dining, accommodations and everything else you need for planning the perfect trip to Natchez.

Fall Pilgrimage September 25- October 12 Great Mississippi River Balloon Race October 16-19 Featuring Dr. John & The Nite Trippers

Anders Osborne, Mingo Fishtrap, and New Breed Brass Band

Natchez Antiques Forum November 5-8 Angels on the Bluff Cemetery Tour November 5-8 For a full calendar of events or a free visitor guide, go to visitnatchez.org. Plus, ask us your travel questions and share photos of your trip using #visitnatchez.

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Join Us for Natchez’s Tricentennial Celebration!

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Check out our great deals at visitnatchez.org/stay/deals READLEGENDS.COM •

STORY STORYFROM FROMNEW NEWALBANY, ALBANY,MISS. MISS.

RIVERFEST

Funk, Blues and Tallahatchie Views hat started as a smaller celebration of Nobel Prize-winning laureate, Southern novelist and notable New Albany resident, William Faulkner, has become over the years a veritable showcase of local, regional

bringing in a Saturday night lineup including blues and roots-rock singer and guitarist Paul Thorn, Drew Holcomb and the Neighbors out of Nashville and Willie Nelson’s granddaughter, Raelyn Nelson. On Friday, expect sets by The Spunk Monkees, Allison’s Rage and Cadillac Funk. “Cadillac will definitely bring the funk, and we’re looking

and national talent. Riverfest, celebrated each year on the last weekend in September, will again place arts and entertainment center stage, positioned alongside the waters of the Tallahatchie. The festival, which takes place in New Albany’s downtown area, includes arts and literary events, performances by local and touring musicians, a “Green Market” providing local farm-produced goods and crafts and a Ferris wheel overlooking the stage. This year, guests also will be treated to an expanded arts and crafts market expected to extend about a quarter-mile from the courthouse to the famed

forward to seeing how the crowd reacts to this music,” Johnson said. Last year Johnson rode the Ferris wheel with his festival photographer on the big Saturday night. “It was the first year that I had produced the event, and looking out over a literal sea of people was beautiful,” he said. Just taking the tickets had its moment. “The little kids in line, clutching their tickets and looking up at the great wheel with such anticipation took me back to a feeling of wonder. Sometimes we forget what pure wonder feels like, and to see these kids experiencing it allowed me to feel it again as well.”

Tallahatchie Bridge. There will be “low-key live day music on a number of smaller stages

Riverfest is a great time to have children in tow; with free admission, it’s a bargain for families. Shops and restaurants in the charming town are open

throughout downtown and a strong night lineup on the banks of the fabled Tallahatchie River, said event producer and marketing director for the city of New Albany, Sean Johnson. “We try to have music for everyone,” Johnson said. “Country music is very popular in Mississippi, so we’ll bring in a strong country or crossover act to bring in the crowds, but then we’ll have other genres come in as well with the hope of introducing folks to a new kind of music.” This year, Johnson said, the fest is pushing the envelope a little more by

for business, too, he said. “Seriously,” Johnson said, “being on the top of that wheel and hearing the sound of live music wafting on the breeze and seeing the Tallahatchie River curve into the hills over one shoulder and a beautiful downtown skyline over the other ... it is sublime.”

BY KARA MARTINEZ BACHMAN

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Want to go? Riverfest is slated for September 26 and 27. For more information, and a complete lineup of music, visit tallahatchieriverfest.com.

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WHAT’S SHAKIN’ IN THE CRADLE? •

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BOGALUSA, LA.

• Sept. 25-26.................. Bogalusa Blues & Heritage Festival in Cassidy Park featuring Keb’ Mo’, Tinsley Ellis, Little Freddie King and others. For more information, visit BogalusaBlues.com. CLARKSDALE, MISS.

• Aug. 7-9........................ The 28th Annual Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival, featuring Classic “Soul” Pioneer William Bell, Norwegian “Blues Queen” and others. Free public event. For more information, visit sunflowerfest.org. • Sept. 25-27.................. The Delta Busking Festival, a new Blues & Roots music festival near the Rock & Blues Museum and Cat Head in downtown Clarksdale. For more information, call (901) 605-8662. DESTIN, FLA.

• August.......................... Bart Rockett Theater, world class magic, illusions, ventriloquism & comedy all in an intimate, custom designed, state-ofthe-art theater located in the heart of the Emerald Grande’s HarborWalk Village. Nightly shows at 7:30 and 9:30 p.m. For more information visit destinmagic.com. GREENVILLE, MISS.

• July 31-Aug. 1............ The 2nd Annual Mississippi Delta Dragon Boat Festival includes the Delta Dragon Boat Race on Lake Ferguson and activities at the Greenville Yacht Club and Stein Mart Square to promote the cultural heritage of the Mississippi Delta and the Chinese culture. For more information, visit deltadragonboatfest.com or call (662) 822-9664. • Sept. 19........................ The 38th Annual Mississippi Delta Blues & Heritage Festival, the longest running blues festival in the country. For more information, visit deltablues.org. • Oct. 2-4......................... The 3rd Annual Mighty Mississippi Music Festival, including the 16th Annual Highway 61 Blues Festival. Festival features The Old Crow Medicine Show, The Band of Heathens and others on two stages. For more information, visit mightymississippimusicfestival.com. GREENWOOD, MISS.

• Aug. 1............................ The 8th Annual Bikes, Blues and Bayous bike tour – Mississippi’s largest ride – offers a 20-mile, a 46-mile and a 58-mile ride. For more information, visit bikesbluesbayous.com or call (662) 453-4152. • Aug. 1............................ Ramcat Rhythm & Brews, downtown Greenwood’s beer tasting with live entertainment. For more information, call (662) 453-7625. HELENA, ARK.

• Oct. 7-10...................... King Biscuit Blues Festival, 30th anniversary celebration featuring The Kentucky HeadHunters, Bobby Rush, Jimmie Vaughan, Taj Mahal and others. For more information, visit kingbiscuitfestival.com or call (870) 572-5223. HOLLANDALE, MISS.

• Sept. 25-26.................. Hollandale Sam Chatmon Blues Festival. For more information, visit facebook.com/SamChatmonBlues. JACKSON, MISS.

• Aug. 14-15................... The Third Annual Jackson Rhythm & Blues Festival at the Mississippi Agriculture and Forestry Museum, with 36 performances on five stages featuring Chaka Khan, The Isley Brothers and more. For more information, visit jacksonrhythmandbluesfestival.com. • Sept. 26-Jan. 10, 2016.......Bright Fields, The Mastery of Marie Hull, Mississippi Museum of Art. Cost is $10 for adults, $8 seniors and $5 students. For more information visit msmuseumart.org. READLEGENDS.COM •

MADISONVILLE, LA.

• Oct. 10-11.................... Madisonville Wooden Boat Festival. For more information, visit louisiananorthshore.com. MERIDIAN, MISS.

• Aug. 8............................ Christopher Cross at the MSU Riley Center, 7:30 p.m. For more information or tickets, call (601) 696-2200 or visit msurileycenter.com. NEW ALBANY, MISS.

• Sept. 25-26.................. Riverfest featuring Paul Thorn, Drew Holcomb & The Neighbors and Raelyn Nelson, Green Market, 5K run, duck regatta and Ferris wheel. For more information, visit visitnewalbany.com. PENSACOLA, FLA.

• Sept. 18-19.................. Taste of the Beach, featuring Celebrity Chef John Besh at Pensacola Beach, hosting Friday night’s VIP event with six of the beach’s finest chefs. Enjoy a special cooking demonstration presented by Besh, chef competitions, live entertainment and fun for kids. For more information visit tasteofpensacolabeach.com. • Sept. 25-27.................. The 38th Annual Pensacola Seafood Festival, where visitors can sample a variety of mouth-watering seafood dishes and enjoy live entertainment, arts and crafts vendors and a children’s area. Free admission. For more information, visit FiestaofFiveFlags.org.

Home of the “BIG CATFISH” Full Service Restaurant with river view, serving Mississippi and its visitors since 1951. Large Groups Welcome! Open Thurs. 5–9 p.m. | Fri. 5–9:30 p.m. Sat. 4–10 p.m. | Sun. 11:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

13221 Hwy 80 W, Chunky, MS Call 601-655-8311

74 • AUGUST// SEPTEMBER 2015

and the CHUNKY RIVER RAFT RACE - June 6, 2015 -

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