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CELINE’S TRIOMPHE CHAIN SHOULDER BAG
JOURNAL MILAN’ FINEST is a pubblication by LE GRAND MAG MEDIA - CEO Bruno Facchetti - Chief Financial Officer Robert Willcox Business Development Tom Scott - Chief Technology Officier Stephen Smith - Chief Administrative Officer William Bright. - CRO Hugh Coyle - Chief Data Officer Ben Thompson - Branded Content & Entertainment Projects Senior Advisor Anna Vitiello - Contents Manager Valeria Borghi - Head Of Communication Ben Thompson - Art Director William Boulton Brand Manager: Gianfilippo Versari - Fashion & Trends Paola Valpreda - Quality Control Davide Metozzi Writers: James Cadoghan, Patrick White, Matt Smith, Tom Bolton, Rita Brooke, Maggie Langwaltz, Marta Marcucci, Lauren Touley, Marlene Schultz, Julie Mulberry, Peggy Sloane, Adam Towler - LE GRAND MAG is a registered trademark. All rights reserved. Le Grand Mag takes not responsibility for claims made in advertisements featured in this magazine. The Publisher and the Management Team cannot guarantee that prices of products and services mentioned in the articles and advertising pages of this magazine are correct. For information on prices, please contact the brands commercialising these product or services.
Rolex’s pursuit of innovation, reliability and precision
Celine’s Spring/Summer 2022 Baie Des Anges Collection spotlighted the “Portrait Of A Musician” series captured by the brand’s creative director Hedi Slimane.
Kaia Gerber re-established her relationship with fashion label Celine for its Summer 2022 campaign. Hedi Slimane, the brand’s artistic director, pictured the brunette model on location in the South of France in Nice. The shots were taken in October of last year and featured Kaia in designs from the spring collection while modeling for a series of predominantly black and white photographs. In one photograph, the American model was shown sporting a leather jacket, a striped mini dress, and the Triomphe Chain Shoulder Bag (shown in a short film), among other things. First appeared during the Autumn/Winter 2021 runway show in Monaco, the bag was featured in the Summer 2022 campaign in a smooth lambskin with interlocking C’s, both in black. (This page, bottom, Model Kaia Gerber poses with Celine Chain Shoulder Bag Cuir Triomphe. Photo: Hedi Slimane)
On the Submariner’s dial, the Chromalight hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow – for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. On the bezel, the triangular ‘zero’ marker of the graduation is visible in the dark thanks to an embedded capsule containing the same luminescent material. The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The graduations and the numerals are moulded into the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.
STRONG VISUAL IDENTITY Like all Rolex watches, the Submariner and Submariner Date are covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The status is
Blue Hors From Denmark Founded in 1991 and with more than 30 years of experience in both the world of sport and breeding of dressage horses, Blue Hors contributes to the improvement of the global breeding of dressage horses with top-quality bloodlines from the best stallion and damlines in the game. The development of the worldwide breeding of sports horses is one of its most important tasks, serving 2,000 mares both at home in Denmark and abroad in
SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED
symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international 5-year guarantee. The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by
Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification: −2/+2 seconds per day. The Superlative Chronometer certification testing simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents re-
Every Rolex watch has undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its laboratories following the brand’s criteria. al-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.
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IN-HOUSE PERPETUAL CALIBRES 3230 AND 3235 MANUFACTURED by Rolex The Submariner is equipped with calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date is fitted with calibre 3235, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Consummate demonstrations of technology, these movements carry a number of patents. They offer outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks, convenience and reliability. The oscillator of calibres 3230 and 3235 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on patented, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed by Rolex. Calibres 3230 and 3235 have an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibres’ regularity in any position. Both calibres incorporate the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also insensitive to magnetic fields. Calibres 3230 and 3235 are fitted with a self-winding module featuring a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. The power reserve of both movements is approximately 70 hours. The movement of the Submariner and that of the Submariner Date will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet they are beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising quality standards.
STALLIONS & CHAMPIONS BLUE HORS, TRAINING AND COMPETITION STABLE, PLAYS A MAJOR ROLE IN INTERNATIONAL DRESSAGE SPORT, TAKING PART IN TOP COMPETITIONS AND SELLING MANY TALENTED DRESSAGE HORSES TO RIDERS WORLDWIDE. all parts of the world every season. With the experienced team and high-quality offspring, Blue Hors offers sales horses educated, administrated and developed by the Blue Hors riders, grooms, giving buyers access to all relevant information around the horse’s wellbeing. When the breeders want to sell their offspring by Blue Hors stallions, a professional advertisement can be created in the database and on the website. Here, their offspring will be shown to potential buyers looking for their next top horse. Thus, Blue Hors is one of the world’s leading stallion stations today. Its horses, riders and offspring have won medals at national championships, European championships, World Cups and Olympic Games. Its stallions have made their mark in big finals and shows, and several offspring sired by Blue Hors stallions are to be found in the top of the FEI dressage rankings.
JOURNAL Fondazione di diritto privato
OPERA SEASON 2022 • 2023 BORIS GODUNOV by Modest P. Musorgskij 7 - 29 December 2022
SALOME
I VESPRI SICILIANI
LA BOHÈME
by Richard Strauss 14 - 31 January 2023
by Giuseppe Verdi 28 January - 21 February 2023
by Giacomo Puccini 4 - 26 March 2023
LES CONTES D’HOFFMANN
LI ZITE ‘NGALERA
LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR
by Jacques Offenbach 15 - 31 March 2023
by Leonardo Vinci 4 - 21 April 2023
by Gaetano Donizetti 13 April - 5 May 2023 Accademia Project
ANDREA CHÉNIER
RUSALKA
MACBETH
IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA
by Umberto Giordano 3 - 27 May 2023
by Antonín Dvořák 6 - 22 June 2023
by Giuseppe Verdi 17 June - 8 July 2023
by Gioachino Rossini 4 - 18 September 2023
LE NOZZE DI FIGARO by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart 30 September - 20 October 2023
PETER GRIMES
L’AMORE DEI TRE RE
by Benjamin Britten 18 October - 2 November 2023
by Italo Montemezzi 28 October - 12 November 2023
BALLET SEASON 2022 • 2023 DAWSON / DUATO / KRATZ / KYLIÁN
LO SCHIACCIANOCI Choreography by Rudolf Nureyev Music by Pëtr Il’ič Čajkovskij 17 December 2022 - 11 January 2023
LE CORSAIRE Choreography by Manuel Legris Music by Adolphe Adam and others 28 February - 17 March 2023
SPETTACOLO DELLA SCUOLA DI BALLO DELL’ACCADEMIA TEATRO ALLA SCALA 14 - 16 April 2023
ANIMA ANIMUS
SOLITUDE SOMETIMES
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Choreography by Nacho Duato Music by Enrique Granados
BELLA FIGURA
3 - 9 February 2023
SERATA WILLIAM FORSYTHE
ASPECTS OF NIJINSKY
Choreography by William Forsythe - Music by James Blake 10 - 30 May 2023
Music by Igor’Stravinskij
BLAKE WORKS I / BLAKE WORKS V
GALA FRACCI
ROMEO E GIULIETTA
IL LAGO DEI CIGNI
7 June 2023
Choreography by Kenneth MacMillan Music by Sergej Prokof’ev 24 June - 7 July 2023
Choreography by Rudolf Nureyev Music by Pëtr Il’ič Čajkovskij 15 - 27 September 2023
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L’APRÈS-MIDI D’UN FAUNE Music by Claude Debussy
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GRAFF DIAMONDS
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THE ETERNAL TWINS The Karowe mine in Botswana has produced some of the most exceptional stones of the last century, and when it brought a 269-carat rough into the hands of Graff’s gemologists, it created the opportunity to turn it into something truly remarkable. It could have produced dozens of spectacular stones, but Graff saw the potential for two immaculate, identical 50 carat stones of astonishing colour and clarity: The Eternal Twins, a mirror-matching set of diamonds, each of an astonishing 50 carats. Obtaining two identical emerald cut diamonds from the same stone had never before been attempted on such a scale. Thus, Graff gem-cutters embarked on a complex and potentially risky operation: meticulously lasering the rough to extract a pair of perfectly proportioned Flawless gems. The long, smooth facets of the emerald cut leave no room for error, especially at this magnitude. Any flaws become more visible, and achieving the optimal play of light between the facets requires mathematical precision on the part of the cutters and polishers. The polishing team worked meticulously, alternating between the stones to ensure they were indistinguishable. When the twins were set into a magnificent pair of earrings, the historic feat was achieved, two D Flawless 50.23 carat diamonds of perfect symmetry, both alive with fire and radiance. The Karowe Mine has been in production since 2012 and is 100% owned by Lucara, a leading independent producer of large exceptional quality Type IIa diamonds. In summer 2022, Lucara moved towards the main shaft sinking phase at the underground expansion project of its Karowe mine, which will extend the operation’s life until 2040. Lucara estimates that shaft sinking will be completed in 2024, with ramp-up beginning in the first quarter of 2026. Full production from the underground mine is scheduled for the second half of that year. Karowe remains one of the highest-margin diamond mines in the world, producing an average of 300,000 carats each year, according to Lucara. Since the beginning of its operations, the Karowe mine has already become the only one in recorded history to have yielded two 1,000+ carat diamonds — the 1,758 carat Sewelô in 2019 and the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona in 2015, which sold for $53 million. Gemological Institute of America pioneered the grading of diamonds, including the development of the 4Cs of Diamond Quality. Diamond’s characteristic chemical composition and
crystal structure make it a unique member of the mineral kingdom. It is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that are not part of the diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its colour or crystal shape. The way a mineral forms helps determine its identity. Diamond forms under high temperature and pressure conditions that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles) beneath the earth’s surface. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond. Without any one of these factors, diamond might be just another mineral. Fortunately, though, this special combination of chemical composition, crystal structure, and formation process gives diamonds the qualities that make them extraordinary. GIA also outlines diamond history and lore. Diamonds have a long history as beauWhen the Karowe mine in Botswana brought a 269 carat rough into the hands of Graff’s gemologists, it created the possibility of something truly remarkable, a mirror- matching set of diamonds, each of an astonishing 50 carats.
tiful objects of desire. In the first century A.D., the Roman naturalist Pliny stated: “Diamond is the most valuable, not only of precious stones, but of all things in this world.” A diamond has to go through a lot before it reaches the jeweller’s display case. It forms deep in the earth under extreme heat and pressure. It is ejected violently upward until it arrives at or near the earth’s surface. It is forced from its hiding place by nature or by man. Then it is cleaved and cut and polished until its natural beauty shines through. The world’s love of diamonds had its start in India, where diamonds were gathered from the country’s rivers and streams. Some historians estimate that India was trading in diamonds as early as the fourth century B.C. The country’s resources yielded limited quantities
Photo © Graff Diamonds for an equally limited market. Gradually, though, this changed. Indian diamonds found their way, along with other exotic merchandise, to Western Europe in the caravans that travelled to Venice’s medieval markets. By the 1400s, diamonds were becoming fashionable accessories for Europe’s elite. In the early 1700s, as India’s diamond supplies began to decline, Brazil emerged as an important source. Diamonds were discovered in the pans of gold miners as they sifted through the gravels of local rivers. Once it reached its full potential, Brazil dominated the diamond market for more than 150 years. While sources changed, the diamond market experienced its own evolution. The old ruling classes— diamonds’ biggest consumers—were in decline by the late 1700s. Political uphea-
The Eternal Twins, two completely identical 50.23-carat gems cut from a 269-carat rough discovered in Botswana’s Karowe mine, have been set in a pair of earrings incorporating a total of 132.53 carats of exceptional diamonds. Graff ’s master craftsmen and design team have combined true artistry with luminosity of astronomical proportions in the creation of these beautiful jewels. The first jeweller to receive the Queen’s Award to Industry and Export in 1973, Graff is synonymous with the ‘all-diamond’ jewel, involved with every stage of a diamond’s life, from mining and cutting to designing and manufacturing.
vals like the French Revolution led to changes in the distribution of wealth. The 1800s brought increasing affluence to Western Europe and the United States. In the 1870s, annual production of rough diamond was well under a million carats. By the 1920s, the figure was around three million carats. Fifty years later, annual production approached 50 million carats, and in the 1990s it surpassed 100 million carats per year. Since the 20th century, diamond knowledge has grown steadily with research by chemists, physicists, geologists, mineralogists, and oceanographers. In the past 50 years alone, scientists have learned a lot about how diamonds form and how they are transported to the earth’s surface. That knowledge has made it easier to predict locations for new diamond discoveries.
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JOURNAL THE FIFE ARMS, BRAEMAR
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The Fife Arms is set within the Cairngorms National Park, in the scenic village of Braemar, famed for its annual Highland Games. Owned by Iwan and Manuela Wirth, co-presidents of the internationally acclaimed art gallery Hauser + Wirth, the hotel draws from their deep respect for the local history, community and setting – a project sensitively evolved to breathe new life into the existing 19th century coaching inn and hotel built by the Duke of Fife.
The Fife Arms is a celebration of local craftsmanship, from walls adorned with house tartan and tweed by Araminta Campbell and bedsteads carved to reflect the landscape, to gardens sculpted by celebrated garden designer Jinny Blom. Moxon architects has overseen a careful, sensitive and refined ‘craft’ restoration of the original listed building. The works of internationally renowned artists feature prominently throughout The Fife Arms, each one inspired by the Scottish landscape and culture which sits at the heart of this project. The hotel is also home to an outstanding collection of mainly Scottish art; Old Masters are complemented by newly and specially commissioned murals, frescoes, installations and curios. Forty-six individually designed bedrooms, each holding a story and paying homage to a tale, character, happening or place linked to Braemar: Four Royal Suites are dedicated to Queen Victoria, the Duke of Fife, Princess Royal Louise, and Abdul Karim. Each is a celebration of their involvement in the expansion of Braemar as a destination for visitors from around the world. Eleven Victoriana Suites are inspired by a key figure or event of the Victorian era. Twelve Scottish Culture Rooms
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are devoted to a person who made a significant contribution to the cultural history of Braemar or wider Scotland. Thirteen Nature and Poetry Rooms feature a poet, or work of nature. Five Croft Rooms have traditional box beds The Artist’s Residence Room is created by Neil Wenman, a director at Hauser + Wirth. The Clunie Dining Room offers a seasonal menu of Scottish favourites with rich
Throughout, there is a Scottish narrative, often local to Braemar itself, making the hotel a repository of stories. culinary tradition, using local ingredients. Elsa’s Bar is a nod to the Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli, whose creations were worn by Frances Farquharson, the first wife of Captain Alwyn Farquharson of the nearby Invercauld Estate. The Bar is the perfect setting for pre-dinner drinks. The Flying Stag, Braemar’s original village pub, is still very much the first stop for local residents. Bertie’s Whisky Bar is named after King Edward VII.
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H O T E L S T H AT D E F I N E ™ T H E D E S T I N AT I O N Discover the magnificence of Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice, a magical storyteller of the city’s historic grandeur and refined home to travellers and globetrotters since 1822. Journey through our 200 year legacy of hospitality while experiencing the true essence of the destination. EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT HOTELDANIELI.COM
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SPRING/SUMMER 2023
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LISA, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR CELINE www.celine.com Born as Pranpriya Manobal on March 27, 1997, in Buriram Province, Thailand, she later legally changed her name to Lalisa, meaning the one being praised, on the advice of a fortune teller in order to bring in prosperity. As an only child, she was raised by her Thai mother and Swiss stepfather. Lisa’s mother Chitthip Brüschweiler and her stepfather Marco Brüschweiler, a renowned chef, are active in Thailand. Lisa completed secondary education at Praphamontree School I and II. Having started dance classes at the age of four, she competed regularly in dance contests throughout her childhood, including in “To Be Number One”,and joined the 11-member dance crew We Zaa Cool alongside BamBam of Got7. In September 2009, the group entered the competition LG Entertainment Million Dream Sanan World broadcast on Channel 9 and won the “Special Team” Award. Lisa also participated in a singing contest as a school representative for “Top 3 Good Morals of Thailand”, hosted by the Moral Promotion Center in early 2009, where she finished as a runner-up. In 2010, 13-year-old Lisa auditioned to join South Korean record label YG Entertainment in Thailand. From a young age, Lisa was interested in K-pop idols, namely admiring artists Big Bang and 2NE1, and wished to someday follow a similar path. Among the 4,000 applicants, she was the only individual to qualify, which prompted then-CEO Yang Hyun-suk into offering Lisa a chance to become a YG Entertainment trainee. Lisa also impressed one of the judges, Danny Im of 1TYM, at the auditions, with him later praising her on-stage confidence and her off-stage attitude. In 2011, Lisa moved to South Korea to begin her formal training as a trainee, which lasted five years. She officially joined the label as their first non-Korean trainee on April 11, 2011. In November 2013, she appeared in Taeyang’s music video for the single “Ringa Linga” as a background dancer, alongside members of iKon and Winner. In March 2015, Lisa undertook her first modelling job for street-wear brand Nona9on, following South Korean cosmetics brand Moonshot in 2016. In January 2019, Lisa became the muse of Hedi Slimane, the artistic, creative and image director for Celine. In September 2020, she was announced as their global ambassador. She was featured in the brand’s Essentials
campaign in June 2020, shot by the creative director himself and has been widely photographed in Celine outfits and accessories. In a statement, the brand said, “We are pleased to announce the continued collaboration of Celine with Lisa, who will represent the house as Global Ambassador”. The same year, in November, Penshoppe revealed Lisa had joined the Penshoppe family as their newest ambassador. Furthermore, on July 24, 2020, Lisa was officially selected as the newest brand ambassador representing Bulgari. She participated in the digital campaigns for the “Serpenti” and “Bzero One” collections. On February 16, 2021, Lisa joined the guest jury for the French fashion award ANDAM. Through YG Entertainment, Lisa released a limited edition photobook entitled “0327” composed entirely with self-taken photographs through a film camera. The photobook was released on her birthday in 2020. The second volume was released the following year on March 27, 2021. On November 13, 2021, it was revealed that Lisa would be releasing her own collection with MAC Cosmetics, titled “MAC x L”. Her collection includes powder blushes, eyeliner, an eyeshadow palette, and a face powder. Lisa’s announcement as
Blackpink’s Lisa and V from BTS caused pandemonium as they attended the Celine spring 2023 men’s show in Paris.
MAC Cosmetics’ first female K-pop idol to be appointed as a Global Brand Ambassador generated $1.83M in MIV®, with MAC’s announcement post generating $506K in MIV® – representing their top branded post of 2020 and making them one of the top beauty collaborations of the year. Her announcement post on Instagram as a Global Ambassador for MAC Cosmetics received more than 5.6 million likes and 74,000 comments. Her partnerships have been noted to feel genuine as she frequently features the same brands across her social media channels. The success of her endorsements and partnerships has been partially attributed to this authenticity. In April 2019, she became the most followed K-pop idol on Instagram, with 17.4 million followers at the time. While Lisa landed her first solo magazine cover for Har-
per’s Bazaar Thailand’s May 2019 issue, MEI, a distributor of Harper’s Bazaar, reported that all 120,000 printed copies in stock were sold out. It was also reported that, on average, 30,000 copies are normally printed, and well-known celebrities have an average of 60,000 copies printed. So, despite selling 120,000 copies, the public’s demand was still not met. Following Lisa’s attendance at the Celine Men’s spring/sum-
LISA, READY FOR 2023
Lisa prepared for Celine’s spring/summer 2023 show at the Lutetia Hotel in the heart of Paris. Dressed head-totoe in black, she interpreted the show’s theme. Her outfit consisted of a black sequin halter neck, tailored shorts and heeled boots, paired with gold rings, bracelets and a skinny black belt. She went rock n’ roll with her makeup and hair, with blonde bangs and smokey eyes capturing Hedi Slimane’s combination of masculine and feminine stylistic notes, something Lisa herself loves about Celine.
mer 2020 fashion show in Paris, Lyst reported that global searches for Celine’s Triomphe bag leapt 66% on June 28, 2019, after she published an image of the style on her social media, in result garnering the attention of many among the general public. As of September 2022, she has amassed over 81 million followers, as she continues to set engagement and follower count records on the platform.
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THE MOST VALUABLE CAR EVER SOLD www.rmsothebys.com
SOLD FOR
€135 MILLION, MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SLR UHLENHAUT COUPÉ BECAME THE MOST VALUABLE CAR EVER SOLD AT AUCTION.
A cornerstone in the history of Mercedes-Benz chronology, this is the second of two adaptations of the race-built 300 SLR made in coupé form. The creation of pioneering Mercedes-Benz designer, Rudolf Uhlenhaut, gave this car its 300 SLR ‘Uhlenhaut Coupé’ nickname, amasterpiece of innovative 1950s motorsport engineering and technology. Comfortably the fastest road-going car in the world when new, it is capable of reaching speeds of up to 290 km/h. Restored by the acclaimed technician and race preparation specialist, Tony Merrick, in 1986, it has been retained by Mercedes-Benz from new and presented for sale for the first time ever in 2022. At the height of its racing dominance in the 1950s, Mercedes-Benz made a Formula 1 Drivers’ Champion out of Juan Manual Fangio on consecutive occasions in 1954 and 1955, while teammates Hans Hermann, Karl Kling, and Stirling Moss stepped onto the F1 podium from behind the wheel of the peerless W196 team car. Away from Formula 1, Mercedes-Benz demonstrated its capability in all forms of racing, proven by Moss, who drove the open-top 300 SLR to legendary victories at the Mille Miglia, Targa Florio, and RAC Tourist Trophy in 1955. In the wake of this success, the famous marque’s involvement with racing would end following the tragic 1955 edition of Le Mans. The influence of one man in shaping the trajectory of Mercedes-Benz in the fallout of the 1955 Le Mans tragedy cannot be underestimated. Rudolf Uhlenhaut, employed as a designer and engineer at the Stuttgart marque since 1931, had led research on many of the most evocative Silver Arrows of that era from the Grand Prix-conquering W196 and other F1 cars before it, to the utterly dominant open-top 300 SLR. In particular, Uhlenhaut’s 300 SLR won acclaim as a highly competitive car, typifying the development capabilities and strength of racing cars made by Mercedes-Benz. While it would bear a strong visual resemblance to two of Uhlenhaut’s other noteworthy designs—namely the W194 that won in Le Mans in 1952, and the 300 SL Gullwing that at that time was being prepared in road-going specification for series production—the underpinnings of the 300 SLR were most closely connected to the W196 that propelled MercedesBenz to F1 success in 1954 and 1955. The withdrawal from motorsport by Mercedes-Benz after the Le Mans crash meant that Uhlenhaut’s role had changed, taking emphasis away from the engineering of competition machines and instead focussing on seriesproduction models as Head of Development for Passenger Cars—though he did retain the remit of overseeing racing car production. Even though no cars were campaigned competitively, Mercedes-Benz would go on to become renowned for its sports car designs. Uhlenhaut had already begun plans for a tin-top version of the 300 SLR—even before the incident at Le Mans—instructing that two cars be built based on the W196 chassis, with the intention of competing in the Carrera Panamericana. The firm’s unexpected departure from top-flight racing quashed any plans for production of the 300 SLR coupé on a greater
scale, but allowed Uhlenhaut to transform the now-stillborn SLR Coupé project from the toughest endurance racing car into the greatest prototype road car the world had ever seen. Uhlenhaut would go on to develop two of the W196-based 300 SLR mulo rolling chassis as road-going cars. Beneath its skin, the 300 SLR in coupé form was clearly derived from a racing car. Its uncompromising driving position, accessed via the innovative “gull wing” doors, forced occupants to fold themselves into position—most drivers having to remove the quick-release steering wheel to fit inside. Just like the F1 car, the mechanical workings of the 300 SLR dominate its interior space, with pilots straddling a large drivetrain tunnel with pedals on either side. Inboard drum brakes are accommodated in the engine bay, to help reduce unsprung weight. The accelerator pedal is
The 3.0-litre, front-mounted, straight-8 engine connects to one of the car’s most distinguishing features: twin exhausts that exit via sidemounted gills positioned halfway across the length of the 300 SLR. dressed in leather to reduce foot slippage while driving. A heating system is as rudimentary as a hinged flap on the engine firewall that allows heat to escape from the engine bay and into the cabin. A large fuel tank fills the boot, crowned by two spare wheels—surely the sign of a racing
car fit to do battle over great distances. The weight of the 300 SLR ‘Uhlenhaut Coupé’ was rated at just 998 kg from the factory—an incredible feat of engineering, made possible by extensive use of ultra-lightweight “Elektron” magnesium material for the bodywork. The 3.0-litre, front-mounted, straight-eight engine connects to one of the car’s most distinguishing features: twin exhausts that exit via side-mounted gills positioned halfway across the length of the 300 SLR. Upon firing into life, the engine roars through these near-unsilenced pipes, and it is said that Uhlenhaut became hard-of-hearing in later life because of the noise of his fearsome coupé creation. Indeed, the English-born designer was hardly shy when it came to driving the car. Of the two made, he assumed ownership of one to use as his company car. Uhlenhaut would drive the 300 SLR regularly, and it is said that—running late for a meeting—he made full use of the 300 SLRs performance on the autobahn, covering roughly 230 km between Stuttgart and Munich in under an hour. This machine is the second of only two examples of the ‘Uhlenhaut Coupé’ ever made. Initial construction took place in December 1955, then six months later an Eberspächer silencer was installed. One week later, on 29 June 1956, the car was deemed ready to drive. Incredibly, it has been retained by Mercedes-Benz since the first time it left the factory. In the earliest years of its existence, the car served to fulfil demonstration drives around Europe with dignitaries such as the Duke of Kent and Lord Brabazon, and is known to have been used by the company in the U.S.A. between 1961 and 1963. From the mid-1960s onwards, the 300 SLR was exhibited by Mercedes-Benz at numerous events.
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Darin Schnabel ©2013 Courtesy of RM Auctions
1957 PORSCHE 356A 1600 SUPER ‘SUNROOF’ COUPE BY REUTTER 75 bhp, 1,582 cc horizontally-opposed OHV fourcylinder engine, four-speed manual transmission, torsion bar independent front suspension, swing axle independent rear suspension, and four-wheel hydraulic drum brakes. Wheelbase: 82.7 in.
1957 PORSCHE 356A 1600 SUPER ‘SUNROOF’ COUPE BY REUTTER Darin Schnabel ©2013 Courtesy of RM Auctions
RM Auctions’ sale of the Don Davis Collection in Fort Worth, Texas took place onsite at Mr. Davis’s estate. The single-day auction of the esteemed “collector’s collection” saw 64 prized automobiles sell for more than $21.2 million before a packed house. The quality of the collection was reflected in the strong global interest in the sale, with bidders hailing from 14 countries around the world. Top sale honours went to a rare, matching-numbers 1967 Ferrari 330 GTS. Representing the epitome of mid-1960s Italian GT styling, and in Blu Scuro, the example on offer attracted great interest from collectors, selling for $1,936,000, which set a new world record
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for a Ferrari 330 GTS sold at auction. Taking the number two spot was another dream car, the 1973 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona Spider, which garnered a remarkable $1,650,000. In total, five lots achieved individual million-dollar-plus results, while spirited bidding saw a number of automobiles well-exceed pre-sale estimates to set no less than eight new world records. This 356A T1 Reutter Coupe, built on May 3, 1957, sat untouched in a Southern California garage from the 1980s until its recent restoration. A transition T1/T2 chassis, it is one built in a three month period, from March to May 1957. These transition cars had some T2
Porsche and Reutter
After the Second World War, Reutter entered into a partnership with Porsche for the production of the Porsche 356 sports car bodies. From 1950 to 1963, Reutter built coupe and convertible bodies for more than 60,000 vehicles of the legendary sports car. Reutter repeatedly built prototypes and models for Porsche based on the 356.
The Don Davis Collection
As a lifelong expert automotive enthusiast, it is no surprise that Don Davis assembled the outstanding collection of classic cars of the 2013 RM Sotheby’s auction, when this 1957 Porsche 356A 1600 Super ‘Sunroof ’ Coupe by Reutter was sold for $ 176,000 in Fort Worth, TX. Davis started collected cars in the late 1970s, and truly began building his dynamic collection in the early 1980s.
Darin Schnabel ©2013 Courtesy of RM Auctions
characteristics. This car retains the T1 high door striker but with the T2 teardrop taillights. These unique production characteristics, along with its rare colour combination, sunroof, and 1600S, make it extremely rare, perhaps unique. A matching-numbers car, with factory stamps on the hood hinge, engine cover, driver and passenger doors, sunroof panel, and transmission, it received a bare-metal, concours-quality restoration at Paras Autos, the Westminster, California, shop of 356 expert and concours judge Louis Paras. Paras rebuilt the engine, while the transmission was done by Jacques Le Friant. The concours-quality chrome
is the work of craftsman Victor Miles. Painted in the original silver metallic, it has a green leather interior, in place of the original green leatherette. In addition to the sunroof, it is equipped as originally delivered, with a Blaupunkt Bremen dual-band radio, Lemmerz chrome ventilated wheels, side spears, and an electric antenna. It also has the rare and desirable 80-liter Carrera fuel tank. The restoration was completed in 2011. No detail was overlooked in the restoration. Driven test miles only since completion, it is in exceptional condition. It comes with a Porsche Certificate of Authenticity and photographs documenting the restoration.
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THE
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NAUTICAL WATCH, EMBODIES THE PRIVILEGED
TIES BETWEEN ROLEX AND THE WORLD OF SAILING. THAT STRETCH BACK TO THE 1950S.
FERRARI PUROSANGUE: UNLIKE ANY OTHER www.ferrari.com
The Purosangue, the Prancing Horse’s first ever four-door four-seater, was unveiled today. The Purosangue is equipped with Maranello’s iconic naturally-aspirated V12 which can unleash a massive 725 cv. Vehicle dynamics inspired by the Prancing Horse’s most extreme sports cars make the Purosangue an authentic Ferrari four-door sports car The Purosangue sets a new standard in the automotive industry, thanks to its innovative layout. Since the marque’s earliest years, 2+2 cars (i.e. with two front and two smaller back seats) have played a significant role in its strategy. Many Ferraris have made combining benchmark performance with first class comfort one of the pillars of their success. Now, in the culmination of 75 years of leading-edge research, Ferrari has created a car that is unique on the world stage: not only do performance, driving pleasure and comfort coexist in perfect harmony, but it is also a peerless encapsulation of the Prancing Horse’s iconic DNA. This is the reason why the name Purosangue, Italian for ‘thoroughbred’, was chosen. To enable the company to achieve the ambitious goals set for this project and create a car worthy of a place in its range, a completely different layout and innovative proportions compared to modern GT archetypes (so-called crossovers and SUVs) were adopted. The average modern GT’s engine is mounted forwards in the car, almost straddling the front axle with the gearbox coupled directly to it; this results in less than optimal weight distribution that delivers driving dynamics and driving pleasure well short of the standards of excellence to which Prancing Horse clients and enthusiasts have become accustomed. The Purosangue, on the other hand, has a mid-front-mounted engine with the gearbox at the rear to create a sporty transaxle layout. The Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is coupled in front of the engine to provide a unique 4x4 transmission. This delivers exactly the 49:51% weight distribution that Maranello’s engineers deem optimal for a mid-front-engined sports car. The Purosangue stands head and shoulders above the rest of the market thanks to its performance and comfort. It is the only car with these proportions to sport a mid-front-mounted, naturally-aspirated V12. Maranello’s most iconic engine debuts in this brand new configuration to ensure the car unleashes more power than any other in the segment (725 cv) whilst guaranteeing the most enthralling Ferrari engine soundtrack. Furthermore, it can deliver 80% torque even at low revs for unique driving pleasure at all times. The Purosangue’s aero development focused on making the bodywork, underbody and rear diffuser as efficient as possible. New solutions include synergy between the front bumper and wheelarch trim which generates an air curtain that aerodynamically seals the front wheels, preventing turbulent transverse air flows being generated. Ferrari has also given the Purosangue the very latest iterations of the vehicle dynamic control systems introduced on its most powerful and exclusive sports cars, including independent fourwheel steering and ABS ‘evo’ with the 6-way Chassis Dynamic Sensor (6w-CDS). Making its world
debut is the new Ferrari active suspension system. This very effectively controls body roll in corners as well as the tyre contact patch over high-frequency bumps to deliver the same performance and handling response as in one of the marque’s sports cars. The all-new chassis has a carbon-fibre roof as standard to keep weight down and lower the centre of gravity. Redesigning the bodyshell from scratch also meant the designers could incorporate rear-hinged back doors (welcome doors) to make ingress and egress easier while keeping the car as compact as possible. The cabin has four generous heated electric seats that will comfortably accommodate four adults. The boot is the largest ever seen on a Ferrari and the rear seats fold to increase the luggage space. Naturally enough, the Purosangue has a more commanding driving position than other Ferraris, but the configuration is the same as on every other Ferrari. As a result, the driving position is still intimate and close to the floor to provide greater connection to the car’s dynamic capabilities. The Purosangue offers class-leading performance figures (from 0 to 100 km/h in 3.3 s and from 0 to 200 in 10.6 s); the driving position and the heady, naturally-aspirated V12 soundtrack deliver an entirely new yet also entirely Ferrari driving experience. The fact that a vast array of comfort-focused content is provided as standard, such as the Burmester© audio system, and that the many optional extras including the brand-new Alcantara® upholstery, derived from certified recycled polyester, make the Purosangue the most complete four-door, four-seater in the segment. The Purosangue’s engine (code-named F140IA) maintains the architecture that made the Prancing Horse’s most recent 12-cylinders so successful i.e. a 65° angle between its cylinder banks, a 6.5-litre capacity, dry sump and high-pressure direct injection. It was designed, however, to produce the highest amount of torque at low revs possible without losing the feeling of linear, never-ending power typical of Ferrari’s naturally-aspirated V12s. 80% of the maximum torque is on tap at just 2100 rpm and it peaks at 716 Nm at 6250 rpm. Maximum power of 725 cv is reached at 7750 rpm and throttle response is characteristic of a real sports car. Intake, timing and exhaust systems have been completely redesigned, while the cylinder heads are derived from the 812 Competizione. Huge attention was lavished on improving mechanical and combustion efficiency, employing Formula 1-inspired calibration concepts. The result is that the most powerful engine ever developed by Ferrari for a four-seater car is also the most powerful in its segment, as well as the only one capable of delivering that instantly recognisable Ferrari V12 soundtrack.
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CHANEL, GIVENCHY, FENDI AND OTHER FASHION HOUSES DRAW FROM DIFFERENT DECADES FOR INSPIRATION TO CREATE THEIR ICONIC YET UNEXPECTED LOOKS.
CHANNELING NEW FASHION
2 3
1 “Allowing for infinite combinations of colours and materials, tweed is an eternal code for the House: “I love working with it so much, I couldn’t live without it at CHANEL ... Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,’” read the show notes, quoting Virginie Viard. Gabrielle Chanel used to spend time along the River Tweed in Scotland and bring back ferns and bouquets of flowers to her local artisans to present the colours she wanted for the tweed fabrics that would make up the maison’s iconic suiting. In the fall/winter 2022 collection, there were also marbled knitwear, leather mini dresses and lamé evening wear. And then there were the thigh-high galoshes, a nod to Coco’s affinity for fishing when in The Highlands. While one may not have fishing on their mind when considering whether to invest in these chic rubber boots in beige and black with the unmistakable C logo, one may consider how to pair these must-have boots for fall. For the fashion circuit, these will most certainly be the boots fought over by stylists when it comes time to shoot the fall fashion editorials. The fall/winter show undoubtedly served as a reference. The boots were worn over pants and with mini hemlines, a trend that is still going strong. For those less adventurous when it comes to the over-the-knee style, there were the mid-calf versions of the wellies, too. Another nod to Coco Chanel’s penchant for masculine-inspired dressing, there were slightly oversized silhouettes as if you are wearing your boyfriend’s coat. “There’s nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love,” says Viard, “Of course, I’m fascinated by this ever contemporary gesture.”
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1. Chanel fall/winter 2022 collection celebrates tweed, which started it all for the maison. “Allowing for infinite combinations of colours and materials, tweed is an eternal code for the House: ‘I love working with it so much, I couldn’t live without it at CHANEL ... Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,’” read the show notes, quoting Virginie Viard. 2. Givenchy fall/winter 2022 collection by Matthew Williams spotlights black in all shapes and forms inspired by the 1990s, from leather, ripped and faded tees to distressed denim, dressed up with tailored blazers, handbags with a chain and high heels with an ankle strap. 3. Fendi fall/winter 2022 collection by Kim Jones channels millennial fashion, inspired by the brand’s looks from 1986 and spring 2000 collection, like this sheer dress: “The best way to explore the Fendi archives is through the Fendi wardrobes,” the designer said.
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HARADS TREEHOTEL The Seventh Room pictured here was built by Norwegian architecture firm Snöhetta in 2016, accommodating five people. This is the newest addition to Treehotel, is also the largest and most luxurious, where the shower and running water that constantly recycles and cleans itself.
HARADS TREEHOTEL www.treehotel.se
Swedish Lapland locals Kent Lindvall and Britta Jonsson-Lindvall wanted to stay close to their roots and create a livelihood in their home village. “We live here, we love our village, we wanted to earn a living and we looked at what
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we could do with what we have here.” Kent had built a company providing international fishing trips. Britta had worked with a number of development projects, local, regional and international. One of them led to their restora-
Design First Swedish architects Bertil Harström, Thomas Sandell and Mårten Cyrén’s collaboration was key for the Treehotel project.
tion and transformation of an old retirement home into a guesthouse in their home village, Britta’s Pensionat. One day, filmmaker Jonas Selberg Augustsén came to the guesthouse to work on “The Tree Lover” film. When the movie was completed, Britta and Jonas made the treehouse an integral part of what the guesthouse had to offer and it instantly became popular. They thoughts, “What if design and tree rooms could be combined?” Kent mentioned the idea of designer hotel rooms to his fishing friends who happened to be Sweden’s foremost architects - Bertil Harström, Thomas Sandell and Mårten Cyrén. Their collaboration turned out to be very important for the Treehotel. Besides the Seventh Room pictured here, other structures include the Microcube, characterized by the mirror-windows that reflect the surrounding nature and camouflages the treehouse. It is an ideal getaway in the forest, with a rooftop terrace where you have views over the pine trees and surrounding landscape, great for an adventurous couple who wants to get a unique experience. Inside, there is plenty of space to relax as well as a double bed with a large window. All walls on the outside are covered by mirror glass and, on the inside, the walls are light plywood. There is also a tree trunk that
grows through the middle of the room, which is a cool aspect of the Mirrorcube. It was constructed in 2010 and the architects behind Mirrorcube are Tham & Videgård, Bolle Tham & Martin Videgård. Dragonfly, with futuristic designs and large windows from the bedrooms, was designed by the Finnish architect firm Rintala Eggertsson. It’s the second largest room at Treehotel with 52 square metres in total and two bedrooms, one master bedroom with a double bed, and one bedroom with twin beds. From the master bedroom, you can wake up to the most beautiful view, especially when the light shines through the window and the trees outside. From every area in the Dragonfly, you will have windows where you can enjoy a nice and calm view of tall pines. The Dragonfly can also be used as a conference room, although it is mostly rented out for private purposes. It features a big seating area with a nice window view as well as a foldable TV, which is attached to the ceiling. The Bird’s Nest was built in 2014 and designed by Bertil Harström. It fits four people and blends in with the surrounding nature with an unusual design that resembles a giant bird’s nest. It is accessed via a ladder and hatch in the floor. And although it’s a relatively compact room, there is one double bed and two single beds, which
makes it a great choice for families. The Cabin is the most classic at Treehotel in Harads. It was designed by Mårten and Gustav Cyrén in built in 2010, one of the most popular choices among couples, and it is easy to understand since it is situated amongst the tree tops with a wonderful view of the Lule River valley. In addition to a double bed and a spacious room of 24 square metres, The Cabin also features a balcony with seating. The entrance is pretty cool too, with a long bridge leading you up to a door that is situated in the middle of the trees. The UFO is one of the most famous treehouses at Treehotel, and it is a longtime favourite among guests. The UFO has room for up to five people with three single beds and one double bed. It’s a popular choice for families, but its alien-like design attracts visitors of all ages, from kids to seniors. This treehouse has the same architect as Bird’s Nest, namely Bertil Harström. Inside, one will find a space-inspired interior with a starry sky in the ceiling. The UFO is accessible via an electric ladder that is collapsible. The Blue Cone is actually not blue at all, but instead, it is a red wooden construction built around simplicity. There is a double bed and a large window with a view of the surrounding trees and nature. The architect behind this treehouse is Thomas Sandell.
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The Wheelbase Azure. Thenew newBentayga BentaygaExtended Extended Wheelbase Azure. Discover ofof comfort, space andand luxury at BentleyMotors.com/BentaygaEWB Discovernew newlevels levels comfort, space luxury at BentleyMotors.com/BentaygaEWB Bentayga WLTP drive cycle: fuelfuel consumption (petrol), mpgmpg (I/100km) – Low 13.5 13.5 (20.9),(20.9), Medium 21.4 (13.2), BentaygaEWB EWB(V8) (V8) WLTP drive cycle: consumption (petrol), (I/100km) – Low Medium 21.4 (13.2), High 25.9 (10.9), Extra high 23.9 (11.8), Combined 21.7 (13.0). Combined CO₂ Emissions – 294 g/km. High 25.9 (10.9), Extra high 23.9 (11.8), Combined 21.7 (13.0). Combined CO₂ Emissions – 294 g/km. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2022 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Bentayga Extended Wheelbase Azure. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2022 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Bentayga Extended Wheelbase Azure.
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BORNAGAIN HAUTE COUTURE www.schiaparelli.com For Schiaparelli’s fall/winter 2022 haute couture collection, Daniel Roseberry writes, “All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly. It’s a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It’s also provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful. It’s breathtaking. It’s beautiful. In recent years, though, it’s felt like fashion has tried its hardest to prove it actually isn’t silly. The pressure designers feel to make a statement about the current political situation, our ongoing climatic disaster, the inequalities among people of different races and genders, and an age of war has in fact led to some extraordinary work, not to mention a reengagement of our industry with the broader culture. But it’s also led to a sometimes dreary self-seriousness, one that foregrounds fashion with sloganeering. It’s easy to be self-serious. The more difficult path is remaining an engaged member of society while also, in one’s work, daring to return to a kind of creative innocence, to the state of wonder and awe we all felt when we saw our first transcendent show. I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence, of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness. I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had making it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory. I think we sometimes get defensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things. But what’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It’s not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn’t actually that easy. But it is a privilege — and I’m grateful for it every day.” From 2022 to 2026, the House of Schiaparelli is thrilled to reveal “Shocking! The surreal world of Elsa Schiaparelli”, a defining art and fashion retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Conceived and realised as an exploration that bridges past and present, the exhibition presents the golden years of a visionary female designer within the larger context of her inspiring relationships to leading artists of the time, while also highlighting how the Maison upholds and embodies her legacy today. The opening and reception, held on July 4, 2022, coin-
cided with the fall/winter 2022 Haute Couture runway show from Schiaparelli artistic director, Daniel Roseberry, whose creations are showcased among over 520 works on display. This marks the museum’s first exhibition dedicated to the Italian couturière since the reopening of the House of Schiaparelli, which had closed in 1954. In 2006, Diego Della Valle, the founder of Tod’s, purchased the Maison, restoring it to the original Paris address at 21 Place Vendôme seven years later. While discussions for “Shocking! The surreal world of Elsa Schiaparelli” began before Roseberry’s arrival in 2019, his exceptional reimagining of Schiaparelli’s artistry and innovation have added momentum and further interest to her unique story. “The exhibition is based on the intention to discover Elsa Schiaparelli – a woman of today who lived in another era – through her rapport with the art and artists at the heart of the retrospective. But it also speaks to the brilliant influence that her work and her heritage had on several generations of couturiers and designers. We have given this cultural dimension to our project as a means of transmission – a desire to share both knowledge and emotion,” says Dephine Bellini, CEO of Schiaparelli. Within the Christine & Stephen A. Schwarzman fashion galleries, the universe of
Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a creative spirit in 20th-century fashion with her inventive imagination and revolutionary vision on sportswear, Haute Couture, art, fragrance, and ordinary elements. Elsa Schiaparelli is enriched with a striking cultural focus that includes artworks, photographs, illustrations, jewellery, objets d’art and furniture that support her expansive and bold ideas about fashion between the 1920s and 1940s. At the exact moment she was redefining the modern woman’s wardrobe, she drew inspiration from a constellation of avant-garde talents and friends. From her association with the Surrealists – including Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí and Meret Oppenheim – to her collaborations with Alberto Giacometti and Jean Schlumberger, the exhibition celebrates the people and movements that influenced her avant-garde style. The exhibition also spotlights iconic designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Azzedine Alaïa, John Galliano and Christian Lacroix who have paid tribute to her through their own creations. Amidst enchanting
scenography by Nathalie Crinière, visitors will discover Schiaparelli’s wildly successful fragrances and step into reconstructions of her couture salons from 1935. The final rooms are dedicated to Roseberry’s evolution of the Maison’s heritage, which echoes across the collections. Interpretations of the emblematic codes – the padlock, the measuring tape, the Shocking pink, the surreal jewellery – are proposed as daring and desirable contemporary designs that invite women to reveal their personality or become the person they wish to be. Having dressed Lady Gaga in custom Schiaparelli for President Joe Biden’s inauguration ceremony; Beyoncé for the 63rd Grammy Awards ceremony; and Bella Hadid for the Cannes Film Festival, Roseberry has established a new generation of muses who not only shape the culture but the conversation around it.
In 2014, the first haute couture runway show was held since 1954, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2017, Schiaparelli is awarded the official Haute Couture label by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation. The Schiaparelli signature appears in none other than Shocking Pink. In 2019, Maison Schiaparelli announces the appointment of Daniel Roseberry as artistic director for all collections, projects and for the image of the house. The 33-year-old Texan had spent more than 10 years alongside Thom Browne at the head of its men’s and women’s collections. In 2021, Lady Gaga wears Schiaparelli Haute Couture to sing the national anthem at the inauguration of President-Elect Joe Biden. On her chest is a gilded brass dove holding an olive branch as a symbol of harmony and peace.
In this way, his work emerges as a metamorphosis of their visions coming together – in the exhibition and beyond – to write the future of a Maison that was incomparably shocking for its time. Roseberry once said, “Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world? Schiaparelli answered these questions with candor and humor, but one of her greatest legacies may be her commitment to fantasy, her understanding that we need fantasy in complicated times. I want to offer my own answers to these questions, and offer a fantasy—a dream—that feels relevant, and necessary, for today.”
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The prestige of Brera attracts companies large and small, which support teaching projects. The Accademia di Brera is a source of inspiration for many famous names in culture who have worked unstintingly with students, providing a hands-on approach through workshops, keynote addresses, and seminars.
THE COUNTLESS ARTISTS HAVE PASSED THROUGH BRERA OVER THE CENTURIES. LINKING ACCADEMIA THE FINE DI BRERA ARTS AND
TEACHING
Some may be born “artists”, but many have become artists at Brera. Palazzao Brera houses several institutions. Accademia di Brera, one of the oldest such schools in Italy, is a living emblem of the history and the artists that have forged Italian art, making their mark on Italy’s history and contributing to interaction between science, literature and the arts since 1776. The school continues today to play a leading role in the world of cultural creativity with unflagging enthusiasm. Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere, founded by Napoleon in 1797, modelling it on the Institut de France, for the purpose of collecting and cataloguing discoveries and of perfecting the arts and sciences. The Orto Botanico di Brera or Brera Botanical Garden, created under Empress Maria Theresa of Austria in 1774, offers visitors a small haven of peace in the heart of the bustling city. It hosts two of the oldest examples of the ginko biloba tree in Europe, a 40-metre lime tree and a Caucasian walnut tree. The Museo Astronomico, or Astronomical Museum, is located here, with a collection of old scientific instruments belonging to the Osservatorio Astronomico. The palazzo is also home to one of the oldest associations in Milan the Amici di Brera, or Friends of Brera, which promotes the conservation and enhancement of the historic Palazzo di Brera. The Accademia di Brera was founded in 1776 by the empress Maria Theresa of Austria, during the Age of Enlightenment that saw the interweaving of the sciences, literature and the arts as the foundation for the humanistic culture of the modern age. It stood out right from its very unique conception in Palazzo di Brera sharing the building with the Gymnasium, the Scuole Palatine for law and philosophy, the astronomical observatory, the laboratories of physics and chemistry, the botanical gardens, the Teresiana Library, the Academy of Sciences, and the Picture Ga-
A look at Empire clock “Nymphe à la Coquille” The 8-day movement with a wire suspension pendulum strikes the hour and half hour on a bell. The clock is in excellent and perfect working condition, and has recently been serviced by a professional clock maker. 51 cm high, 52 cm wide, 16 cm deep, weighing 17.1 kg, the clock comes complete with its pendulum, key and bell. This spectacular and large gilt bronze Empire clock “Nymphe à la Coquille”, attributed to Claude Galle, has a bastion-shaped case which holds the movement of this clock. On
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During the Romantic Age, the historical painting triumphed thanks to Francesco Hayez, the landscape school by Giuseppe Bisi was set up, and the teaching post of aesthetics was transformed into the history of art.. Today, the prestige of Brera attracts many private sponsors who fund events, projects, and scholarships. Among these, the following have given their generous support: Baccarat, Bosch, Bulthaup, Cimbali and others.
“Accademia aperta” llery that formed the nucleus of what is today the Pinacoteca. The Accademia owes its initial strong momentum to Giuseppe Bossi, its administrator between 1802 and 1807, who rekindled links with the rest of Europe, also thanks to the nomination of top of this case we see a scene of a young woman sitting on a meadow full with flowers. She is holding a shell in her right hand which she is using to take water from a small pond. This scene is clearly inspired by the marble sculpture “Nymphe à la Coquille”. This sculpture, which was previously owned by Camille Borghèse, is currently in the collection of the Louvre Museum in Paris. The movement of this clock has a white enameled dial with black enameled Roman numerals. Beside it are figurative plaques of Tritons blowing their horns. And to the side of the clock case we see two dolphins. The base of this Empire clock “Nymphe á la Coquille” has a beautifully chiseled bas-relief showing us a classic processional scene with Amor on his chariot, and groups of women.
HIGH-CALIBER STUDENTS MEET RENOWNED ARTISTS honorary partners such as David, Canova, Thorvaldsen and many others. It was Bossi who introduced the annual exhibitions from 1805 that
were to become the biggest contemporary art event in Italy during the 19th century. Countless artists have passed through the Accademia
Open Academy presents its 10 artistic faculties in the summer months. doors over time. During the Romantic Age, the historical painting triumphed thanks to Francesco Hayez, the landscape school by Giuseppe Bisi was set up, and the teaching post of aesthetics was transformed into the history of art. In the second half of the 19th
century, with the emergence of photography and the growing rebellion of young artists towards the conservatism of teaching, (Medardo Rosso was just one of the famously “expelled”), academic life merged and clashed with an artistic world in ferment as it transformed, from the Scapigliati to the Futurists. During the Avant-garde period, painting lessons were given by Cesare Tallone, who was Carrà and Funi’s maestro. In 1923, with the school reform by Giovanni Gentile, the Artistic Lyceum was set up next to the Accademia and in the same years, the school of sculpture was run by Adolfo Wildt, who was then succeeded by Francesco Messina and Marino Marini, the latter’s students including Lucio Fontana and Fausto Melotti. The need to respond to changing cultural conditions (advertising was already being taught at the School of Craftsmen before the Second World War) became increasingly evident after the war when the Accademia reopened its courses under the direction of Aldo Carpi. In the sixties, this was an area in the city where great artistic debate took place, with lively discussion among artists at the nearby Giamaica café. Today, the Accademia di Brera is renowned worldwide, still today chosen by those wanting to follow a career in art. So many famous names have passed through Brera, some as students, others as teachers. Adolfo Wildt, Arturo Martini, Lucio Fontana, Fausto Melotti, Luciano Fabro, and Alberto Garutti are just some of the artists who testify to the close relationship between art and teaching. Liliana Moro, Mario Airò, Gianni Caravaggio, Bernhard Rüdigher, and Marcello Maloberti all studied under Luciano Fabro. And Alberto Garutti taught Vanessa Beecroft, Lara Favaretto, Giuseppe Gabellone, Paola Pivi, Patrick Tuttofuoco, Roberto Cuoghi, and Petrit Halilaj, the last two also showing at the Venice Biennale in 2017. Some may be born “artists”, but many have become artists at Brera.
A SCENE FROM OVID’S “METAMORPHOSES” THIS EMPIRE CLOCK, CIRCA 1810, HAS GILT BRONZE ORNAMENTATION, AND THE SCULPTURE OF THE WOMAN HAS CLEARLY BEEN SCULPTED AND CHISELED BY A GREAT MASTER, LIKE CLAUDE GALLE. The “Nymphe À La Coquille”, who some sources refer to as Venus, can be Latona, a daughter of Titans in Greco-Roman mythology. Zeus conceived her with the divine twins Artemis and Apollo. Hera, Zeus’ jealous wife, wanted to prevent Latona’s delivery. Even after Latona’s delivery she was thwarted, as by the Lycian farmers who did not want Latona to stay and scoop water from a shallow pool with a conch to quench her thirst, as told in the “Metamorphoses” by Roman poet Ovid. The clock is powered by 8-day movement with a wire suspension pendulum that strikes the hour and half hour on a bell. 51 cm high, 52 cm wide, 16 cm deep, weighing 17.1 kg, the clock has recently been serviced by a professional clock maker, and comes complete with its pendulum, key and bell.
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A lot happened in 1897: Queen Victoria celebrated her diamond jubilee; the Blackwall Tunnel opened; and the novel Dracula was published. It was also when Harrods Estates opened. Since then, we’ve assisted the residents of Knightsbridge and surrounding areas with luxury properties – always providing the highest level of service. Here’s to the next 125 years.
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© Rolex/Kit Houghton
CHI ROYAL WINDSOR HORSE SHOW © Rolex/Kit Houghton
The CHI Royal Windsor Horse Show returned to the private grounds of Windsor Castle in Berkshire, England, from 12 to 15 May, 2022, for four days of elite equestrian competition. The event included the Platinum Jubilee Celebration with 90 minutes of arena theatre featuring more than 500 horses and 1,000 performers. The 5-day CHI Royal Windsor Horse Show takes place in May on the private grounds of Windsor castle. Some 55,000 spectators will watch the action unfold, an opportunity available just once a year, when the gates open to the public for this uniquely majestic event. Royal Windsor attracts the world’s leading equestrian riders and remains the only show in the United Kingdom to host international competitions in show jumping, dressage, driving and endurance. First staged in 1943, Royal Windsor’s enduring commitment to tradition and excellence reflects Rolex’s own defining values. The brand has been an Official Partner of the show since 2016 as part of its relationship with the sport that dates back to 1957 when pioneering British show jumper Pat Smythe became the brand’s first equestrian Testimonee. In the ensuing 65 years, Rolex has forged lasting bonds with key individuals and organizations
who set the highest standards of performance, helping to foster the excellence and elegance inherent in equestrianism. German rider Daniel Deusser, ranked World No. 10, took his place among a distinguished field that included fellow Rolex Testimonee Steve Guerdat, winner in 2018 and placed second in 2021. Martin Fuchs, who finished third behind Guerdat last year, will look to continue the rich vein of form that has elevated him to the World No. 2 ranking. The Swiss pair travelled to England with a fresh sense of the skill, accuracy and athleticism required to win a Rolex Grand Prix, having both won Majors in 2021; Guerdat at the Spruce Meadows ‘Masters’ Tournament, Fuchs at the CHI Geneva. Kent Farrington of the United States won back-to-back Grand Prix at this event in 2016 and 2017, while another Testimonee to have enjoyed success at the venue is France’s Kevin Staut.
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THE RICHARD MILLE RM UP- 01 FERRARI IS JUST 1.75 MM THICK (1.18 MM FOR THE MOVEMENT). THE FIRST WATCH CREATED BETWEEN RICHARD MILLE AND FERRARI, HAS A NEW, PATENTED ULTRA-FLAT ESCAPEMENT AND IS LIMITED TO 150. THE ENTIRE CASE IS MACHINED FROM GRADE 5 TITANIUM. THE MONOBLOC CONSTRUCTION OPTIMISES RIGIDITY WITH WATER RESISTANCE TO 1 ATM.
THE RICHARD MILLE RM UP-01 FERRARI www.richardmille.com A model resulting from many year’s work, dozens of prototypes and more than 6,000 hours of development and laboratory testing... Richard Mille was determined to retain a traditional architecture in which the movement is assembled within the case, rather than a construction in which the caseback doubles as a baseplate, in order to ensure under any circumstances total shock resistance. “For such a project, it was necessary to set aside all the knowledge we had amassed over years of practice, and every conceivable standard of watchmaking,’ explains Julien Boillat, Technical Director for Cases at Richard Mille. ‘This is precisely what we did throughout our collaboration with the laboratories of Audemars Piguet Le Locle. Shaving off those last hundredths of millimetres of depth was an extremely demanding and lengthy process.” The collaboration between Richard Mille and the Ferrari teams, most visibly expressed in the choice of materials and execution of the watch, also precisely lent the project the competitive spirit so essential in the most exhilarating adventures. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an allusive piece to Ferrari’s values, developing sporting mechanisms that are as elegant as they are immediately recognisable. Their models make no concessions and frequently contradict current trends to create new aesthetical codes. The RM UP-01 Ferrari bears witness to this partnership of the best know-how these two iconic brands have to offer in the combination of their ideas, understanding, respective developments and shared values. Meeting the challenge of an ultra-flat watch precluded a traditional movement with superimposed gears and hands. Richard Mille therefore opted to distribute what could not be stacked over a broader surface area by creating a perfect symbiosis between the movement and case, each ensuring the necessary rigidity of the other. The RM UP-01 manual-winding movement with hours, minutes and function selector – capable of withstanding accelerations of more than 5,000 g’s – thus boasts a thickness of 1.18 millimetres, a weight of 2.82 grams, and a power reserve of 45 hours. To ensure optimal functioning of the going train, the baseplate and skeletonised bridges are crafted of grade 5 titanium, guaranteeing perfect flatness without compromising strength.
In 2021, Ferrari and Richard Mille, driven by their shared quest for perfection, joined forces to create a long-term partnership. Richard Mille celebrates this budding relationship with the creation of an exceptional ultra-flat timepiece, the RM UP-01 Ferrari. Breaking with the brand’s established stylistic codes, but faithful to its identity and spirit, this model once again rolls back the limits of the possible by taking up the ultra-flat challenge. At just 1.75 millimetres thick, the RM UP-01 Ferrari constitutes a triumph of technical prowess and exemplifies a new approach to watch mechanics in which technicity more than ever dictates aesthetics. The patented extra flat barrel is fitted with an extraordinarily fine hairspring and the architecture of the escapement was entirely redesigned. To reduce depth, the small plate of the balance and dart (guard pin) – two parts that prevent the anchor from slipping back during the free phase of the balance wheel’s movement – were eliminated. The new ultra-flat escapement, also patented, replaced these ‘anti-reversal’ elements with an elongated fork with new horns. Likewise, the index was set aside in favour of a variable- inertia balance crafted in titanium whose six weights allow for fine-tuned calibration of the regulating organ. To deliver a watch this thin, it was also necessary by rethinking the winding mechanism and to eliminate the winding stem, whose minimum diameter of 1.5 millimetres precluded its inclusion in such a slim watch. In its place, the two crowns, one for function selection, the other to utilise the selected function, have both been integrated in the case as movement wheels.
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Calibre RMUP-01 is an ultra-flat manual winding movement with hours, minutes and function selector. The movement measures 51,00 x 39,00 x 1,75mm and has a power reserve of up to 45 hours. ‘Even in the realm of extreme flatness, we were determined to make a watch that met the same validation requirements as all our other models. In this quest for absolute flatness, we had to offer a watch that, far from being a ‘concept watch’, was up to the task of following a user’s daily life, whatever the circumstances,’ concluded Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements at Richard Mille. As a material for the case – just 1.75 mm in thickness and water resistant to 10 metres – titanium was chosen for the advantages it offers in combining lightness and laboratory tested resistance. The two sapphire crystals, one over the time indicators whose hands are directly affixed to the wheels, the other positioned over the regulator (balance wheel-spring
assembly) to showcase the movement’s operation, were also reduced in thickness to two tenths of a millimetre with a diameter calculated to ensure their resistance during testing phases. The narrow tolerance range and extreme slenderness of each part required the focus to be particularly meticulous and checked at almost every stage of machining. It was therefore natural that the decision to produce and machine the case in-house in our movement department was the logical step to take for the RM UP-01 Ferrari. Like the prestigious Italian automotive legend – and consistent with the standards of the Richard Mille manufacture thanks to its extreme lightness, tonneau shape, spline screws, skeletonised bridges and level of finishing – the 150 limited-edition timepieces in the RM UP-01 Ferrari series combine innovation with performance, strength and aesthetics. A work of surpassing prowess that meets the brand’s every expectation, ready to be worn under any circumstances.
Do you want to build a career in fashion orwant design Do you tomanagement? build a career in fashion or indesign 1-year full-time program Milano thatmanagement? provides you with the most solid management skills tailored to highly creative industries. 1-year full-time program in Milano that provides you with the most Discover MAFED. solid management skills tailored to highly creative industries.
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ADD MORE VALUE TO CREATIVITY
MASTER IN FASHION, EXPERIENCE & DESIGN MANAGEMENT MAFED
Building a Career in Fashion & Design Management: An exciting journey throughout the MAFED experience at SDA Bocconi School of Management sdabocconi.it/mafed The Master in Fashion, Experience & Design Management (MAFED) is a 12-month full-time, full-immersion international program preparing graduates to thrive in the culture of resultsoriented creativity. MAFED recognizes the unique DNA of fashion and design companies, often rooted in their successful, well-established histories. The Program aims to fuel these traditions with the new tools made available by new managerial approaches, enhanced analytics, and new technologies enabled by the digital ecosystem. Our students emerge well prepared to deal with the unlimited imagination of creative people, capable of harnessing the beautiful and original, as well as coping with the realities of time constraints and the fickleness of consumers. The pedagogical style is a hybrid lectures, applied assignments, and guest speakers sessions. The learning approach tends to be very interactive, and lectures frequently incorporate business case analysis and discussions. There are also required group work sessions, field investigations and individual research. The program has a strong experiential flavor, including several company visits, more than 50 sessions delivered by top guest speakers from the industry, 4 study tours, a mentoring program and 2 months of field project to put in practice what learned throughout the year. “In an increasingly dynamic landscape - where customers are getting more sophisticated, iconic brands coexist with contemporary ones, scarcity blends with immediate product access, and new players are contributing to redesign the same rules of the competitive game - my commitment is to provide you a rigorous managerial approach that bridges creativity with the most innovative business tools. My promise is to make your experience of this journey one that you’ll remember for the rest of your life”,
Emanuela Prandelli, MAFED Director.
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REASONS WHY
WHY YOU SHOULD CHOOSE MAFED
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TOP PROGRAM
To be part of a top program, which has been no.3 in the world for Fashion & Design Management, in a top ranked business school, in Milano, one of the top international capitals of fashion and design.
6 THE FUTURE OF TRADITION
To learn how to design the future of tradition, recognize the unique DNA of fashion and design compagnies, and fueling it with new tools made available by new managerial approaches, anhanced analytics, and new technologies.
2 MANAGERIAL COMPETENCES
To build rigorous managerial competences in fashion, design and experience-based industries with first-hand experiences in the field.
7 FIELD PROJECTS
To have the opportunity to spend two months working on field projects delivered by top international fashion and design companies in order to practically apply the tools learned in class.
3 DEDICATE FACULTY
To learn from an extraordinary expert, dedicated, and passionate faculty, consisting of over 30 professors who bring a 360 degree view of how these industries work, in order to equip students with the tools needed to envision the future, both as managers and as entrepreneurs.
8 INTERNATIONAL ENVIRONMENT
To be exposed to a unique international environment that makes learning a process of exploring differences and celebrating diversity: with an average of more than 20 nationalities per class, MAFED in an ideal laboratory to prepare you for working within multi-cultural environments.
4 TOP GUEST SPEAKERS To enhance your skills through the opportunity to connect with top managers participating in classes as guest speakers.
9 FONDAZIONE ALTAGAMMA
To benefit from the strategic partnership with Fondazione Altagamma, a leading network of fashion and design trands and companies and sparking entrepreneurial inspiration.
5 DIRECT BRAND EXPERIENCE
To directly experience brands in stores, showrooms, events and trade fairs, by “seeing and touching” the product where it is originally made.
10 ALUMNI NETWORK
To enter a unique business community and extended Alumni network, which represents a long-lasting valuable asset for the rest of your professional life.
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WHAT IS MAFED?
MAFED IS A 12-MONTH FULL-TIME, FULL-IMMERSION INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM PREPARING GRADUATES TO THRIVE IN THE CULTURE OF RESULTS-ORIENTED CREATIVITY.
Our students emerge well prepared to deal with the unlimited imagination of creative people, capable of harnessing the beautiful and original, as well as coping with the realities of time constraints and the fickleness of consumers.
LIVE THE EXPERIENCE.
12
74%
MONTHS
INTERNATIONALS STUDENTS
FULL-TIME
FROM 23 COUNTRIES
4
87%
STUDY TOURS
GRADUATES
PARIS, MADRID, NEW YORK FOUND A NEW JOB 1 YEAR OR ITALIAN GRAND TOUR AFTER GRADUATION
MAFED goes to Madrid with Professor Francesca Rinaldi, hosted from ISEM Fashion Business School of Navarra University. Amazing classes about the Spanish Retail System, Pre and Post Covid, and a unique story by LOEWE about their transformation from a classic leather goods brand to a cultural brand.
The MAFED Winning Team of the Grand LVMH Challenge, in 2022 run in partnership with Fendi, thanks to the Visual Merchandising Manager EMEI, Francesco Adams Facchini, and the HR Retail - Recruiting & Talent Development Supervisor Europe, Lila Mejri. The goal was to identify new sustainable creative solutions in retail merchandising. And MAFED students have been really disruptive!
MAFED goes to Paris with Professor Lucia Paladino and the Director of the Program, Emanuela Prandelli. These pictures are taken in front of “le19M”, which brings together 11 Maisons d’art, including the Ecole Lesage for embroideries visited as tradition by the MAFED class. The Study Tour includes classes at IFM, the Institut Français de la Mode, with local faculty and guests from Chloé, as well as company visits at Le Bon Marché, LVMH Fragrances, as well as at the Elsa Schiaparelli Exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
On June 7th, the entire MAFED21 class has gone to Florence to participate to a Master Class by Bruno Pavlovsky, President of CHANEL’s Fashion Activities, followed in the evening by the Chanel Replica Fashion Show. Unforgettable experience in the words of one of the class representatives, Julia Shevchuk, speaking in the name of the entire class: “it was a truly magical and inspiring experience, and one that we will keep in our memories for the rest of our lives. We always enjoy hearing the wisdom that successful professionals share with us, and this was no exception. Bruno Pavlovsky’s motivating accounts of the company’s future and the importance of creativity and curiosity were particularly affecting to us”.
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FROM ASPIRATIONAL TO INSPIRATIONAL: IS PURPOSE THE NEW LUXURY PRODUCT? Paola Cillo Professor of Innovation Management Bocconi University
Emanuela Prandelli Professor of Technology & Innovation Management Bocconi University
New big trends more and more rapidly cross cutting the entire world landscape are putting under discussion the same notion of luxury we have universally referred to. Luxury has always been synonymous of aspirational exclusivity, mainly set by selective distribution and unaffordability from a price point perspective, usually justified by superior product quality rooted in a long-lasting brand heritage. It is this unique legitimation which comes from the past, from a well-established tradition of distinctive craftmanship, that has extraordinarily contributed to make each brand unique, as many luxury companies have tried to emphasize by creating their own museums and opening their original plants to final consumers. According to this traditional view, luxury products are just for limited elites, mainly identified on the basis of their superior purchasing power, consistently with the original theory suggested at the end of the XIX century by the sociologist Thorstein Veblen (1924), who introduced the notion of conspicuous consumption aiming at showing off economic power or what we call now status signaling. Today, however, this notion of luxury has been put under discussion and luxury is becoming a more nuanced concept, in a context where markets are becoming more and more global, products genderless and ageless to address a more and more fluid society, made of customers who are more and more open to new consumption modes, to the idea of even replacing access to ownership and to a new preference for living unique experiences more than buying exclusive objects. How luxury companies have to change their approach to address a more inclusive and deeply connected society? By rooting their value proposition into clear, distinguishing values, that are made credible by their consistency with an immersive culture contaminating the entire organization and shaping all its own behaviors, at any level, inside and outside its own perimeter. It’s no longer enough pretending to have a coherent message to communicate into the market to make unique and authentic the brand positioning. Fashion and luxury companies need today to permeate their own behaviors with the values they explicitly adhere to, in order to retaliate and consolidate a cohesive segment of preferences into the market. These values are even more powerful when they are at the core and actually inform the same purpose of the organization, intended as the reason to be, the essence that motivates its presence into the market. This means that even for luxury companies offering an expensive value proposition is no longer enough to be desirable. In a culturally enriched environment, where customers are sharing experiences and opinions on a systematic basis within their own digitally extended community of peers, the essence of the same brand positioning is rooted in the differentiating message the company is sending out through its own actions and the position taken into the ongoing social debate. When Pierpaolo Piccioli, the designer of Valentino Maison, creates and wears a sweater with the icon logo of the brand saying “V for Vaccinated”, it is evident that the company is no longer simply selling a new capsule collection into the market: it is taking a clear, discriminating position into a very delicate, enlarged discussion going on into the public opinion, stating unequivocally where the company is sided, far beyond the traditional assigned role in setting the aesthetics of the new season. In this way it is clearly consolidating a lump of appreciation into a portion of the market, but it also running the risk to lose another portion of clients who are differently sided. The core point is that not taking a clear position and trying to be pleasant to anyone is putting the company in the even more dangerous condition to potentially loose everyone into a market where customers are consuming meanings before products. Within an inclusive society we recognize a new geography, where a purely economic elite is replaced by a new cultural one, defined on the basis of mastered knowledge and competence. In this context, a luxury brand can no longer be “simply” aspirational thanks to its unaffordable prices: it has to become also inspirational, thanks to the distinguishing values it can share with the targeted audience through an effective story-telling. Of course, economic exclusivity is not disappearing, but it is going to be enhanced into a new and more sophisticated inclusivity based on common values to recognize and identify in. This is the scene where luxury has to redefine its own essence, shifting from exclusivity to
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In the current context, a luxury brand can no longer be “simply” aspirational thanks to its unaffordable prices: it has to become also inspirational, thanks to the distinguishing values it can share with the targeted audience through an effective story-telling.
uniqueness. Being expensive and accessible only to a few is no longer per se enough to be desirable. Customers are more and more frequently looking at the true purpose of the company and the coherent actions in which it is going to be embodied in, when they have to decide which player deserves to gain their preferences and the related shares of wallets. The organization’s focus on a clear and consistent purpose not only helps consolidate a solid segment of loyal customers, but it also enhances the same brand stretchability and degrees of freedom in pursuing new strategic directions. A brand such as Patagonia is well known for its straightforward choice to support sustainability much before every company in the industry started to talk about that (and eventually play with greenwashing to shortcut the way to reach it). They have been smart enough not only to associate the brand with the “simple” usage of sustainable fibers or carbon neutral manufacturing processes, but they have really embodied the sustainable mission into each single company’s behavior and action. Not only they have invested millions of dollars in annual contributions to environmental causes and land conservation, but they also offer generous benefits and an employee-centric workplace, as well as they are well recognized by customers for their honest campaigns, such as the “Don’t Buy This Jacket” one, which just had its tenth anniversary. Legendary in fashion and marketing circles, it recently promoted sustainability by discouraging potential customers from buying their product in a full-page ad in the Black Friday edition of the New York Times. They really show in a very consistent way to follow their purpose as a guide. And actions follow consistently. This complete and authentic adherence to a sustainable purpose translated into sustainable values and behaviors has allowed the company to stretch its business into blockchain technology solutions to be provided to different industrial players that want to offer customers guarantees about the traceability and transparency of their production processes. A clear proof that a solid purpose - which goes much beyond a pure marketing statement together with consistent values and actions, also brings promising business benefits. In luxury fashion, the movement towards purpose and inclusion has been kicked off by Gucci. Alessandro Michele’s creations have since the very beginning carried more than aspirational, high-quality creations, but inspirational symbols. The “My Body, My Choice” pieces of 2019 collection are a clear statement in favor of women’s choice about their body, openly parading the brand aside a woman deliberate decision about herself from body appearance to abortion. Also, the brand has taken a strong stand towards sustainability practices with its CEO, Marco Bizzari, launching a “CEO Carbon Neutral Challenge” and openly inviting CEOs from different industries to join Gucci’s challenge to commit revising the protocols and practices of their respective business to achieve in the shortest possible time the objective of carbon neutrality. This more strategic call has been then followed by different initiatives always in the scope of sustainability, that have involved the design of the new collections as well. For example, the Gucci “Off the Grid” collection has been ideated since inception with a collaborative effort among different departments of the company, in order to find the perfect solution allowing the production of pieces completely developed by using recycled, regenerated, and sustainable materials. This is another example that purpose goes well beyond a simple statement and requires a full alignment of an organization’s practices and behaviors to follow with the statements. The shift from being aspirational to being inspirational really requires a full commitment of all departments of the organization, because values and purpose are authentic only if perceived in every single product, action, and message a company shares with its audience.
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©Eviation
ALICE BY EVIATION
BASED IN WASHINGTON STATE, EVIATION AIRCRAFT DEVELOPS AND MANUFACTURES ELECTRIC AIRCRAFT TO DELIVER A COMPETITIVE AND SUSTAINABLE SOLUTION FOR THE REGIONAL MOBILITY OF PEOPLE AND GOODS. ITS ELECTRIC PROPULSION UNITS, HIGH-ENERGY-DENSITY BATTERIES, MISSION-DRIVEN ENERGY MANAGEMENT, AND INNOVATIVE AIRFRAME ARE DESIGNED FROM THE GROUND UP FOR ELECTRIC FLIGHT. THIS YEAR, MASSACHUSETTS-BASED CAPE AIR, ONE OF THE LARGEST COMMUTER AIRLINES IN THE UNITED STATES, ANNOUNCED THE PURCHASE OF 75 ALL-ELECTRIC ALICE COMMUTER AIRCRAFT.
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©Eviation
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Eviation’s diverse team of expert and innovative technology leaders is committed to building all-electric solutions for aviation. By creating something that has never been done before, it is proud to be electrifying regional flight; ushering in the future of air travel. President Gregory Davis, from Saint John, New Brunswick, has a youthful passion for aircraft and aerospace. Having first earned his Glider Pilot License (GPL) at the age of 16, he then followed that up by earning both his Private (PPL) and Commercial Pilot Licenses (CPL). As an experienced aerospace executive, Gregory holds both a Bachelor and a Master of Aerospace Engineering from Carleton University, and an MBA from the Haskayne School of Business. Gregory started his engineering career in repair design and then moved into the development of modifications and upgrades for the C-130 Hercules at Marshall Aerospace Canada. After working at Viking Air Limited as their Production Engineering Manager, and Plant Manager at the Twin Otter’s final assembly plant, Gregory led the product support team for the Canadair CL-215 & CL-415 and the organisation’s aftermarket support for a variety of other aircraft. An accomplished aeronauti-
cal engineer with more than 15 years of experience in aviation and aerospace system engineering, Chief Technology Officer Lior Zivan heads tech development efforts. Previously, Lior headed up several development programs at Israel Aerospace Industries, where he oversaw system engineering for various air vehicle projects, and the integration of multidisciplinary systems including sensors, embedded computer systems, avionics, power plants and systems. Lior is an Adjunct Lecturer at the Technion Israel Institute of Technology, and has a BSc in Aerospace, Aeronautical and Astronautical Engineering from Technion. Chief Operating Officer Yair Katz heads Eviation’s operational activities, and has over 15 years of experience leading multidisciplinary teams and projects from program management at large tech companies to co-founding and serving as CEO of a tech start-up. Earlier in his career, Yair served as Lieutenant Colonel in the Israel Defence Forces’ Special Forces. He has a Bachelor of Design in Industrial and Product Design from the Holon Institute of Technology. Alice would come in three models. The commuter variant seats nine passengers. SkyView panoramic windows, with individually
controlled electrochromatic shades, flood the cabin with natural light. Wide, elegantly-designed seats come with a 32-inch pitch for generous personal space. The executive seats six, with luxury craftsmanship, comfort and sustainability. Generous personal space complemented by a state-of-the-art galley, wardrobe, and the largest luggage compartment in class – with ample room for golf clubs, skis and bikes. The cargo model has a capacity of 450 cu ft, with temperature controlled for optimal haulage. Equipped with forward and aft access doors as well as a secure webbing system; designed for swift turnarounds. The magniX all-electric propulsion system for the Alice has been flight-tested and proven in other aircrafts. The United States Federal Aviation Authority (FAA) and European Union Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) are ready to certify those aircrafts that meet the highest standards in safety and viability. In 2019, the full-size functional prototype of Alice debuted at the Paris Air Show, and in the following year, Eviation moved its headquarters to Arlington, Virginia, where it secured manufacturing facilities. In 2021, the assembly of first production configuration Alice’s commuter variant took place, while its executi-
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©Eviation
©Eviation
ve and cargo configurations were unveiled. The first flight is anticipated in 2022. This year, Eviation and Massachusetts-based Cape Air, one of the largest commuter airlines in the United States, have announced the purchase of 75 all-electric Alice commuter aircraft. With this engagement, Cape Air aims to set up an unparalleled regional electric fleet, taking a pioneering step into the sustainable era of aviation. Cape Air flies more than 400 regional flights a day to nearly 40 cities in the Northeast, Midwest, Montana and the
Caribbean. “Truly sustainable aviation not only reduces the impact of air travel on the environment but also makes business sense,” said Jessica Pruss, Vice President of Sales. “We are proud to support Cape Air, a recognised leader in regional air travel, to chart a new path in delivering innovative solutions that benefit airline operators, passengers, communities and society.” Cape Air President and CEO Linda Markham said, “Cape Air remains committed to sustainability, growth, and innovation, and our partnership with Eviation
allows for these commitments to become a reality. Our customers will be at the forefront of aviation history and our communities will benefit from emission- free travel.” Cape Air Board Chairman, Dan Wolf stated, “Cape Air has always maintained a deep commitment to social responsibility. As an early supporter of all-electric air travel, we are dedicated to leading the industry towards a sustainable future. Together with Eviation, we are creating the next generation of air travel, in which electric flight will be the industry standard.”
Eviation’s all-electric Alice aircraft seats nine passengers and two crew, designed to fly 440 nm on a single charge and has a top cruise speed of 250 kts. President Gregory David says: “Eviation is all about expanding human possibilities by changing the way we think about air travel. Electric flight is a step change in how we will soon be travelling and shipping. It will change our society.” ©Eviation
ALICE, ELECTRIC AIRPLANE With a maximum range of 440 nm, maximum cruise speed of 250 kts with a 2500-pound payload, Alice aims to be environmentally, financially and socially sustainable as it heralds a new era of transporting people and goods. The advanced digital flight deck is built with performance, workload reduction and pilot comfort in mind. Alice is the first FAR23 category aircraft with a fly-by-wire, fully electronic flight control system, complemented by touch screen flight displays.
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JOURNAL Upper West Side Mansion Exclusively Re p re se nte d by the SamplePowe rs Tea m
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GULFSTREAM G650 FAMILY RECEIVES EUROPEAN STEEP APPROACH CERTIFICATION. Gulfstream G650 and G650ER have been certified for steep approach landing operations by the EASA. The Gulfstream G650 and G650ER have been certified for steep approach landing operations by the European Union Aviation Safety Administration (EASA), unlocking the ability for European operators of the ultralong-range aircraft to access even more airports around the world. “We are pleased to be able to increase flexibility for our G650 and G650ER European operators by giving them access to such airports as London City near the city’s financial district and even more remote airfields throughout Europe,” said Mark Burns, president, Gulfstream. “The G650 family’s high-speed performance advantage paired with this new certification will expand opportunities for our customers with more options for remote destinations.” The G650 family gained Federal Aviation Administration steep approach landing certification in 2019 after successful operations at airports like London City and Lugano. The aircraft demonstrated capability to perform a 5.5-degree approach and ability to operate on London City’s short runway — 4,327 feet/1,319 meters for landing. The EASA certification unlocks approaches up to six degrees. There are more than 480 G650 and G650ER aircraft in service with a combined total of more than 120 city-pair speed records. Also in the summer of 2022, Gulfstream’s ultralong-range G800 made its first international flight, and flew from Savannah to Gulfstream Customer Support’s Farnborough, England, facility in support of Gulfstream’s participation in the Farnborough International Airshow. The G800 flight test team completed additional testing requirements, including a long-duration flight of more than eight hours and
operations beyond the air- desticks and the most ex- students, gave attendees craft’s maximum operating tensive use of touch-screen the opportunity to learn speed and cruise altitude of technology in the industry. about careers in business Mach 0.925 and 15,545 me- Gulfstream’s participation in aviation and participate in tres, respectively. the 2022 Farnborough Inter- hands-on educational activiThe longest-range ties hosted by Gulbusiness aircraft fstream employees Gulfstream participated in the 2022 from the Farnboin the industry, the G800 can fly Farnborough International Airshow’s rough and Savan8,000 nautical minah locations. Pioneers of Tomorrow exhibit. les/14,816 kilome“Gulfstream is extres at Mach 0.85 cited to be part of and 7,000 nm/12,964 km at national Airshow’s Pioneers this event promoting scienMach 0.90 and features the of Tomorrow exhibit, an ce, technology, engineering, Gulfstream Symmetry Flight event connecting business arts and mathematics,” said Deck with active-control si- aviation leaders with local Mark Burns, Gulfstream Pre-
The G600 celebrated a new city-pair record run. THE GULFSTREAM I FIRST FLEW IN 1958. TODAY, MORE THAN 3,000 AIRCRAFT ARE IN SERVICE AROUND THE WORLD. WITH PARENT COMPANY GENERAL DYNAMICS, GULFSTREAM INVESTS IN THE FUTURE, DEDICATING RESOURCES TO RESEARCHING AND DEVELOPING NEW AIRCRAFT, TECHNOLOGIES AND SERVICES, WITH A FLEET THAT INCLUDES THE SUPER-MIDSIZE G280, THE G650 AND G650ER, AND A NEXT-GENERATION FAMILY OF AIRCRAFT INCLUDING THE ALL-NEW G400, THE AWARDWINNING G500 AND G600, THE FLAGSHIP G700 AND THE ULTRALONG-RANGE G800. Gulfstream delivered the first extensive use of touch-screen announced a new service cenG600 to be outfitted at its technology in the business avia- tre in Mesa, Arizona, to support Dallas, Texas, facility, in spring tion industry and other advanced customers operating in and 2022. In response to growing safety features including Gulf- through the U.S. West Coast. demand, Gulfstream expand- stream’s Enhanced Flight Vision Gulfstream G600 successfully ed completions operations to System. With its ability to travel demonstrated steep-approach the Dallas facility in June 2021 6,600 nautical miles/12,223 kilo- landings into London City, Luto enhance interior outfitting metres at Mach 0.85 and 5,600 gano and Sion Airports. Its capabilities for customers. “We nm/10,371 km at Mach 0.90, low-speed handling and shortare seeing tremendous demand the G600 has set more than 35 field landing capability were for our next-generation aircraft,” city-pair speed records. To date, celebrated with a new city-pair said Mark Burns, Gulfstream Gulfstream has made more than record run: 4,235-nm/7,843-km President. “Expanding G600 70 G600 deliveries to customers flight in just 8 hours and 39 mincompletions to Dallas is posi- around the world. utes from London to Seattle, tioning us well for the future as The addition of G600 comple- landed with fuel reserves exwe prepare for G700 entry into tions to the Gulfstream Dallas fa- ceeding National Business Aviservice, continued G500 and cility is part of Gulfstream’s larger ation Association minimums unG600 in-service fleet growth growth strategy, which includes der Instrument Flight Rules. The and the interest we are seeing Gulfstream Customer Support’s flights are pending approval by in the recently announced G400 expansion to Fort Worth Alli- the U.S. National Aeronautic and G800.” The G600 features ance Airport in Texas with an Association and Fédération Gulfstream’s next-generation all-new, modern and sustaina- Aéronautique Internationale in Symmetry Flight Deck with ac- ble service centre. Gulfstream Switzerland for recognition as tive control sidesticks, the most Customer Support also recently world records.
sident, before the event. “As industry leaders, we have an obligation to foster future engineers, artisans and aviation experts, and each student who visits the exhibit will have the potential to become such a pioneer. Our employees are dedicated to supporting our industry’s workforce, and we look forward to the next great generation of aviation leaders.” Pioneers of Tomorrow showcased prospective careers in busi-
ness aviation and the wide variety of disciplines within the field. Opportunities at Gulfstream’s Farnborough facility were highlighted, including licensed inspectors, engineers, technical training coordinators and many others. At the Gulfstream exhibit, students also participated in hands-on activities and were provided with information on careers at Gulfstream and specifically at Gulfstream Customer Support’s Farnborough facility.
The G600 can be configured in four living areas for up to 19 passengers or three living areas with a crew compartment for up to 13 passengers, and customers can also choose from a forward or aft galley configuration. The interior features award-winning seat designs, best-in-class cabin altitude, 100% fresh purified air, whisper-quiet noise levels and 14 Gulfstream panoramic oval windows, the largest in the industry. As with all Gulfstream aircraft, each cabin is custom-made by Gulfstream artisans who handcraft the cabinetry, furnishings and finishes.
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FOKKER TECHNIEK
Fokker Techniek has signed a contract with K5-Aviation for its first widebody VIP completion. Fokker Techniek Co-CEO Roland van Dijk said, “It’s really the next level and we are very honoured that K5-Aviation has entrusted us with this prestigious project. We have started preparations and will soon implement more changes to the company in order to keep up with the continuous growth in our Aircraft Completions and Conversions segment. Our order book demands additional workforce and an increase of in-house activities.” With its heritage as an aircraft OEM, the Fokker Techniek team can perform a a “green” completion, a minor or major upgrade, or a full refurbishment. Engineering services include design and Engineering of VIP interiors, systems and installations; certification of completions, modifications & systems to obtain STCs; redesigns related to obsolescence issues, upgrades and refurbishments; on-site Technical Support to enhance aircraft operations; maintenance requirement analysis and recommendations; supplements of aircraft Technical Documentation & Manuals; engineering technical assistance; weight saving and noise reduction studies and incorporation. The engineering and design capabilities from Fokker are recognised by the EASA through a Design Organisation Approval (DOA), which allows major modifications and alterations of airframe, aircraft systems as well as upgrades of (cabin) electronic systems up to and including modifications to the flight-deck. The engineering team covers the field of In-Flight Entertainment (IFE), wireless LAN and SatCom systems, Mechanical Systems and Structures, Stress and Airworthiness Analysis. VIP interior service comprise manufacturing and installation of bespoke interiors, under EASA Production Organisation Approval (POA); modifications to systems and avionics; re-upholstery of seats and linings; full or part- refurbishments of existing VIP Interiors; performance of structural (interior and exterior) modifications; component overhaul, testing and rectifications; performance of functional, operational and tests leading to certification; and on-site technical support during modifications. Support and services cover manufacturing, overhaul and/or repair of: cabinets and monuments; VIP cabin lining; upholstery; composites, cable looms/wire harnesses; tubing (welding and bending); machined parts; sheet-metal parts; items requiring non-destructive inspection; and items requiring surface treatment. The MRO division takes care of scheduled airframe maintenance, introduction of SBs/ADs, restoration of damages modifications. MRO facility includes a paint hangar for a full repaint or new exterior liveries. Furthermore, it includes various shop capabilities, from interior furnishings to alterations to monuments and refurbishment of seats, redefining certain VIP cabin areas or cabin functions such as upgrading cabin systems. Cabin modifications can be completed during maintenance downtime, during which the team can also take care of relevant services such as Maintain CAMO, De-registration/ registration and Temporary importation.
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Fokker Techniek expands its VIP cabin completion capability into widebody market, with an exclusive VVIP aircraft cabin ordered by K5-Aviation, spacious cabin interior with a modern design. Long journeys require the space and time to rest and recharge, with a private bedroom, including bathroom, best placed in the rear of the floor plan. A spacious private office area with desk and TV screen is ideal work when flying. The use of a transparent partition provides an open area when it is clear, or privacy in the bedroom when dimmed. In fact, bespoke interiors for mansions, hotels, yachts and VIP aircraft have one common purpose: to indulge the person using it with the ultimate feeling of comfort. The open spaces concept is based on having open connected areas.By using transparent walls, it creates a spacious feeling and enhances the impression that this space is connected with the next social space. Like at home, there is a sitting area to relax in. With a transparent TV monitor integrated in the wall, your favourite art collection can be displayed as part of the area. Fokker Techniek has a Part145 Maintenance organisation recognition for both the EASA and FAA together with approvals from most other Regulatory Authorities. (Images © Fokker Techniek)
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JOURNAL Palau. The More Miles Less Plastic initiative was activated also on the occasion of the 54th Barcolana, the famous regatta that takes place every October in Trieste, acting as a starting point for the implementation of the initiative in many other sailing events.
MORE MILES LESS PLASTIC BY ONE OCEAN FOUNDATION
One Ocean Foundation is an Italian initiative of international relevance that operates for the protection and conservation of the marine and coastal ecosystems with the aim to accelerate solutions to ocean issues by inspiring leaders, companies, institutions and individuals through the promotion of a sustainable blue economy. The Foundation was founded in 2018 following the One Ocean Forum, an event organized in 2017 by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda on the occasion of its 50th anniversary.
One Ocean Foundation is an Italian initiative of international relevance that operates for the protection and conservation of the marine and coastal ecosystems with the aim to accelerate solutions to ocean issues by inspiring leaders, companies, institutions and individuals through the promotion of a sustainable blue economy. The Foundation was founded in 2018 following the One Ocean Forum, an event organized in 2017 by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda on the occasion of its 50th anniversary.
“The pollution from plastics and microplastics represents one of the main plagues for the health of our ocean and is a phenomenon in continuous and rapid increase. About 8 million tons of plastic end up in the ocean every year and unfortunately the estimates are increasing. However, we believe that a change is still possible, that each of us can be part of the solution and we hope that this project will be replicated on other racing fields. We launched the No Plastic in the Ocean initiative with the aim of acting in synergy with our partners through concrete activities, such as the one we presented at the Mario Formenton 2022 Trophy” declared Riccardo Bonadeo, President of One Ocean Foundation.
The More Miles Less Plastic made its debut on the 20th of August 2022 during the 32th Mario Formenton Trophy, a famous regatta in Sardinia held in memory of the former president of the Mondadori publishing house. This year’s edition route passed between the islands of the La Maddalena Archipelago, with departure and arrival in Porto Rafael, near
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of cetaceans usually present in the western Mediterranean, some of which are considered particularly rare. The main goal of this project is to develop scientific evidence in order to protect the Caprera Canyon area, currently recognized as an Area of Interest (AoI), promoting it to Important Area for Marine Mammals (IMMA). To pursue this aim, One Ocean Foundation has chosen to support and coordinate itself with important research bodies and universities, to collect scientific evidence on critical information on ecology and cetacean distribution: the CMRE centre of La Spezia, Insubria University, the CNR and SEAME Sardinia association. These underwater canyons are considered important hotspots for several species of cetaceans, thanks to underwater currents that favor the transport of nutrients and of numerous preys which are the base of the food chain. Cetaceans are recognized by the EU Marine Strategy Framework Directive as essential components of ecosystems and highly linked to their health, as, being large predators, they can greatly influence the structure of marine ecosystems. However, there are many problems caused by human activities that have a great impact on cetaceans and, to mitigate the consequences, accurate knowledge of the distribution and abundance of these animals is required.
More Miles Less Plastic is structured according to an accountable process, through which it is possible to accurately trace the information on the place where the plastic is collected. The removal takes place in developing countries, where most of the plastic waste that threatens the oceans comes from. Plastic is collected, traced and returned to a certified recovery and recycling circuit, thus also generating a social impact, involving and rewarding local communities and promoting the development of a circular economy. Research Activities As of today, the project consists of three main research In specific, for every mile traveled by each boat during the activities: Acoustic monitoring, Environmental DNA Analysis Formenton Trophy, One Ocean Foundation has committed and Visual survey. to collect 1kg of plastic from the ocean, resulting in a total of 588 kilograms of plastic collected. 1. Acoustic Monitoring Cetaceans use sound, which propagates better than light in Two of the Foundation’s flagship maxi yachts that water, to navigate, communicate and to echo locate and hunt participated in the Barcolana in Trieste, the 100-foot Arca preys underwater. One Ocean Foundation, in collaboration SGR by Furio Benussi and the 63-foot AnyWave Safilens with the CMRE center in La Spezia, will position 3 sound by Alberto Leghissa and Mauro Pelaschier, all three recording devices in strategic points of the Caprera Canyon ambassadors of the One Ocean Foundation. These were area, to monitor the presence and distribution of deep-diving joined by 4 other maxi yachts, the mythical Moro di Venezia mammals (ex: beaked whales). Results of these research (this is the second hull built by Raul Gardini for the America’s will allow to better understand the use of the habitat by Cup challenge), now armed by Gianfranco Natali, the 90- cetaceans as well as to conceive solutions to mitigate the foot Portopiccolo of Claudio Demartis, the 80-foot Marco impact of anthropogenic noise on cetaceans. Bono’s Anemos II and Bruno Marin’s 62-foot Ekita. During the following weekends the initiative was implemented also 2. Environmental DNA analysis during the Venice Hospitality Challenge and of Veleziana, One Ocean Foundation collaborates with the University contributing to an overall collection of over 1 ton of plastic of Insubria to develop genetic detection of cetaceans. from the ocean. This technique is based on the collection of sea water samples and analysis of environmental DNA, intended The next ambitious One Ocean Foundation activation will to describe the temporal distribution of the biodiversity involve the solo sailor and ambassador of the Foundation of cetaceans in the Caprera Canyon area. This is a nonAmbrogio Beccaria that will set off on November 6 for the invasive monitoring tool, as the physical presence of the organism is not necessary.
OTHER PROJECTS, THE CAPRERA CANYON
Over 1.5 tons of plastic was collected thanks to the maxi yachts present at the 54th Barcolana in Trieste and to all participants of the Mario Formenton Trophy, sailing event held in August in the La Maddalena Archipelago. More Miles Less Plastic is an environmental initiative that One Ocean Foundation has developed and implemented for the nautical world and more specifically for sailing events. The two main objectives of this project consist in creating awareness on ocean plastic issue while at the same time having a concrete impact through the collection of plastic waste from marine and coastal areas. The initiative is part of a broader Foundation’s project, No Plastic in the Ocean, that aims to fight marine pollution from plastics and microplastics.
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legendary transatlantic regatta, the Route du Rhum. The route will depart from the Breton coast of Saint Malo and arrive the Caribbean Island of Guadeloupe, for a total of 3500 nautical miles. Therefore, through the More Miles Less Plastic initiative, One Ocean Foundation will collect over 3,500 kilograms of marine litter in developing countries. Ambrogio Beccaria races on the Class 40 Alla Grande of which Pirelli is the main & lead sponsor. Our multiple research activities in the Caprera Canyon, in collaboration with high level international institutions to increase knowledge on cetacean species and ensure the protection of this biodiversity hotspot. Since 2019 One Ocean Foundation is committed to support research activities in the Caprera Canyon, considered the area with the largest submarine canyon system in the northeast of Sardinia, in the central Tyrrhenian Sea. The Canyon is characterized by a large density of pelagic fauna; the site hosts 7 of the 8 species
3. Visual survey One Ocean Foundation supports SEA-ME Sardinia Onlus, non-profit organization whose mission is to protect cetaceans in the Mediterranean Sea and that implements visual monitoring activities to gather scientific data on the presence, abundance, distribution and movements of cetacean in the area of the Caprera Canyon. These investigations are carried out through sightings on linear transects, photo identification studies and counts of animals that pass in specific geographical points, completely noninvasive observational methods which employ observers specialized in marine mammals. The One Ocean Foundation and SeaMe also organize visits to Italian schools with an educational project aimed at raising awareness of the importance of the marine ecosystem, with a specific focus on cetaceans and the Canyon of Caprera project. For the students of the institutions involved it is a chance to discover the cetaceans that live off Sardinia, and to understand the impact noise pollution and waste from human activity have on the fragile ecosystems they inhabit. Through data, images, videos and firsthand accounts, students are able to get lost in the world of cetaceans for a couple of hours, getting to know the Canyon of Caprera and the importance of the offshore areas that are closely interconnected with coastal zones and fundamental for the development of the population of cetaceans. Each of the institutes involved undertakes to respect the marine ecosystem through the signing of the Charta Smeralda. This leads to a concrete commitment on the part of pupils to safeguard marine ecosystems.
THE INTERNATIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY ART FAIR IN ITALY
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EXCLUSIVE CLOCKS AND DECORATIVE OBJECTS FROM 18TH-19TH CENTURY Apollo Art & Antiques selects each item based on its beauty, authenticity, and condition for the gallery. Harold and Alexander’s pursuit of rare objects of unparalleled execution allows them to propose a fine selection of items of lasting value. They take great pleasure in sharing their discoveries with their customers while building lasting relationships with a growing number of international private collectors. They emphasise on offering a personal and impeccable customer service. Apollo Art & Antiques offers a fine selection of 18th and 19th century French antiques in their online gallery. We specialise in Empire clocks, French candelabra and candlesticks, antique bronze sculptures, and objects of decorative arts. There are so many different types of clock to consider, in so many different styles, that it is important to consider different periods when buying a new timepiece. French clocks from the late 17th and early 18th centuries, known as the Louis XIV (1643-1715) and Régence periods (1715-1723) respectively, tend to be grand in style and made on a theatrical scale. For instance, the long case clock, or régulateur, below, was made by the French designer André-Charles Boulle (16421732), a cabinetmaker to Louis XIV, and is typical of the baroque taste at the time. Clocks from the following Louis XV period (1715-1774) are characterised by a looser, and even more sculptural design, such as the below wall-mounted ‘cartel clock’, with its figures lost in clouds and shells. you’re after a clock with a complex and precise movement, and
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housed in a more refined case inspired by symmetrical Greek and Roman architectural styles, maybe the Louis XVI (17741792) period is right for you. Sculptural ornament was still a big part of the visual appeal of clocks of this period, and many of them incorporate figures in ormolu — finely-ground, high-carat gold applied to bronze. The clock shown above is not only an excellent representation of clockmaking in this period, it’s also a technological marvel that reflects the pursuit of science in the Age of Enlightenment. During the following Empire Period (roughly 1800-1815), and in the time of the restoration of the monarchy during the 1820s, there was a greater emphasis on the narrative quality of figurative sculpture on clocks. The figures on the clock below represent a scene from the story of Hector in the Trojan wars. A good tip for those who want a French baroque clock that won’t break the bank is to look at late 19th-century versions. ‘They have all the opulence of their 18th-century predecessors, but can cost a lot less,’ says Strafford. Another important criterion is the shape and size of your clock. If it is going to be hung on a wall, go for a cartouche-shaped ‘cartel’ clock, such as the Louis XV example above. On the smaller end of the scale are carriage clocks. The first of these travelling clocks was designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet for the Emperor Napoleon in 1812. ‘They tend to be made in gilt-bronze or brass and glass, and often have intricate movements with multiple functions,’ says Strafford. ‘This makes them excellent gifts for the technologically inclined.’
The 19th-century French carriage clock shown above has an eight-day movement (designed to be wound only once a week), as well as a full calendar, moon-phase dial, barometer and thermometer. Dial and movement French clocks can sometimes come with as many as three names attached — the maker of the case, the maker of the dial, and the maker of the enamelling for the dial. Christie’s specialists are always on hand to explain which names signal the best quality. ‘French clocks from the first half of the 18th century tend to have fairly simple movements, so are often collected for the name attached to the ornamental appeal of their cases instead of their complex mechanics,’ explains Strafford. After the 1750s there were a number of technological advances made within the movements of French clocks. ‘If horological wizardry is your thing, concentrate on the later Louis XV and Louis XVI periods,’ says the specialist. ‘Paris is usually associated with the best-quality movements.’ In 1752 Ferdinand Berthoud, then aged just 25, presented a longcase régulateur to the Royal Academy of Sciences in Paris, which successfully adjusted for the difference between solar and mean time (which can be up to 16 minutes a year). This complication is known as equation time. The movement in the clock below is one of the first Berthoud built with this feature, and it was sold at Christie’s in 2001 for £322,750. It is now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
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&
tailoring
7 For all Mankind, Via Manzoni 43, 20121, www.7forallmankind.com 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154, www.10corsocomo.com Al Bazar, Via A. Scarpa 49, 20145, www.albazarmilano.it Alberta Ferretti, Via Montenapoleone 18, 20121, www.albertaferretti.com Alex Boutique, Via Padova 173, 20127, www.boutiquealex.com Alexander McQueen, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121, www.alexandermcqueen.com Angela Orsolani, Via Vincenzo Monti 32, 20123 Animal House Concept Store-Dynamo, Via A. Saffi 7, 20123, www.animalhouseconceptstore.it Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121, www.antonia.it Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143, www.antonioli.eu Aspesi, Via San Pietro all’ Orto 24, 20121, www.aspesi.com Bagutta, Via San Pietro all’ Orto 26, 20121, www.bagutta.net Balenciaga, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121, www.balenciaga.com Balmain, Via Montenapoleone 27/D, 20121, www.balmain.com Banner, Via S. Andrea 8, 20121, www.biffi.com Barba Napoli, Via Gesù 19, 20121, www.barbanapoli.com Beatrice B, Corso Venezia 6, 20121, www.beatriceb.com Bel Boutique, Corso Monforte 21, 20122, info@belboutique.it www.belboutique.it Beretta, Via Hoepli 3, 20121, www.beretta.com Biffi, Corso Genova 6, 20123, www.biffi.com Boglioli, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17, 20121, www.bogliolimilano.com Borsalino, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 92, 20121 www.borsalino.com Bottega Veneta, Via Montenapoleone 27/A, 20121 www.bottegaveneta.com Boule De Neige, Corso Como 3, 20154, www.bouledeneige.it Brian & Barry, Via Durini 28, 20122, www.brianandbarry.it Brunello Cucinelli, Via Montenapoleone 27c, 20121, www.brunellocucinelli.com Burberry, Via Montenapoleone, 12, 20121, www.it.burberry.com Canada Goose, Via della Spiga 18, 20121, www.canada-goose.com Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1, 20121, www.canali.com Carlo Tivioli, Via Santo Spirito 24, 20121, www.carlotivioli.com Celine, Via Montenapoleone 25/2, 20121, www.celine.com Cesare Attolini, Via Bagutta 14/16, 20121, www.cesareattolini.com Chanel, Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A, 20121,www.chanel.com Chiara Boni, Via S. Andrea 8, 20121, www.chiaraboni.com Chicchi Ginepri, Via Daniele Manin 13, 20121, www.chicchiginepri.it Chloè, Via della Spiga 30, 20121, www.chloe.com Collini, Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121, www.collini.com Daad, Via Santo Spirito 24a, 20121, www.daad-dantone.com De Molfetta, Corso Vercelli 11/13, 20144, www.corsovercellimilano.it Desert Fish, Vicolo Privato Lavandai 6, 20144, www.desertfish.it Diego M, By Appointment, www.diegom-store.com Dior, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121, www.dior.com Dior, Via Silvio Pellico 6, 20121, www.dior.com Ditta Guenzati, Via Agnello 8, 20121, www.dittaguenzati.com Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 15, 20121, www.dolcegabbana.com Dolce & Gabbana, Via della Spiga 2, 20121, www.dolcegabbana.com Dolce & Gabbana, Via Montenapoleone 4, 20121, www.dolcegabbana.com Doriani, Via S. Andrea 2, 20121, www.doriani.it Drome, Via Santo Spirito 18, 20121, www.drome.it Drumhor, Via Manzoni 45, 20121, www.drumhor.com Dsquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121, www.dsquared2.com Eddy Monetti, Via San Pietro all’Orto 22, 20121, www.eddymonetti.com Eligo, Corso Venezia 18, 20121, www.eligo-milano.com Eral 55, Piazza Venticinque Aprile 14, 20124, www.eral55.com Eres, Via S. Andrea 3, 20121, www.eresparis.com Erika Cavallini, Via della Spiga 19, 20121, www.erikacavallini.com Etro, Via Monte Napoleone 5, 20121, www.etro.com Fabiana Filippi, Via della Spiga 42, 20121, www.fabianafilippi.com Falconeri, Via della Spiga 1/3, 20121, www.falconeri.com Falconeri, Via Montenapoleone angolo Via Manzoni 20, 20121, www.falconeri.com Farfalle, Via Varese 12, 20121, www.farfallemilano.com Fedeli, Via San Pietro all’ Orto 26, 20121, www.fedelicashmere.com Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121, www.fendi.com Feru, Corso Matteotti 3, 20121 Flavio Castellani, Corso Venezia 11, 20121, www.shop.flaviocastellani.it Fortela Store Milano, Via Melzo, 17, 20129, www.fortela.it Frankie Morello, Corso Venezia 2, 20121, www.frankiemorello.it Genny, Via della Spiga 6/A, 20121, www.genny.com Giada, Via Montenapoleone 15, 20121, www.giada.com Gianluca Saitto, By Appointment, www.gianlucasaitto.it Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121, www.giomoretti.com Giorgio Armani, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 3, 20121, www.armani.com Giorgio Armani, Via S. Andrea 9, 20121, www.giorgioarmani.com Givenchy, Via S. Andrea 11, 20121, www.givenchy.com Gucci, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121, www.gucci.com
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Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5/7, 20121, www.gucci.com Hawico, Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo 2, 20123, www.hawico.com Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121, www.hermes.com Herno, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121, www.herno.com Horst Uomo, Largo Quinto Alpini 2, 20145 Il Gufo, Via San Pietro all’ Orto 22, 20121, www.ilgufo.com Imarika, Via G.Morelli 1, 20129, www.imarika.com Incontri, Via Belfiore 11, 20145, www.incontrishop.com Isabel Marant, Via Santo Spirito 17, 20121, www.isabelmarant.com Isaia, Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121, www.isaia.it Issey Miyake, Via Bagutta 12, 20121, www.isseymiyake.com Jacob Cohen, Via della Spiga 29, 20121, www.jacobcohen.it Jil Sander, Via Pietro Verri 6, 20121, www.jilsander.com Kiton, Via Sant’Andrea 16, 20121, www.kiton.it La Double J, Via S. Andrea 10a, 20121, www.ladoublej.com La Tenda, Via Mario Pagano 69/A, 20145, www.latendamilano.com La Tenda, Via Plinio 5, 20129, www.latendamilano.com La Tenda, Via Solferino 13, 20121, www.latendamilano.com Lanvin, Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121, www.lanvin.com Lardini, Via Gesù 21, 20121, www.lardini.com Larusmiani, Via Montenapoleone 7, 20121, www.larusmiani.it Laura Urbinati, Viale Col di Lana, 8, 20136, www.lauraurbinati.com Loewe, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121, www.loewe.com Lorena Antoniazzi, Via della Spiga 36, 20121, www.lorenantoniazzi.it Loro Piana, Via Montenapoleone 27, 20121, www.loropiana.com Louis Vuitton, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121, www.louisvuitton.com Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121, www.louisvuitton.com Luciano Barbera, Via Gesù 9, 20121, www.lucianobarbera.com M Bardelli, Corso Magenta 13, 20123, www.mbardelli.com Maje, Via Manzoni 16, 20121, www.maje.com Maje, Corso Como 9, 20124, www.maje.com Malo, Via Montenapoleone 18, 20121, www.malo.it Margiela, Via S. Andrea 5, 20121, www.maisonmargiela.com Mari, Via Bigli 10, 20121, www.marimilano.it Mariza Tassy, Via Molino delle Armi 45, 20123, www.marizatassy.it Massimo Alba, Via Brera, 8, 20121, www.massimoalba.com Mega Fashion, Via della Spiga 36, 20121, www.megamilano.com Mezzanotte Store, Viale Premuda 13, 20129, www.mezzanottestore.it Michael Kors, Via della Spiga 8, 20121, www.michaelkors.it Miki Thumb, Via G. Fiamma 40, 20129, www.mikithumb.com Milaura, Corso Garibaldi 20, 20121, www.milaura.com Missoni, Via S. Andrea 3, 20121, www.missoni.com Miu Miu, Via S. Andrea 21, 20121, www.miumiu.com Modica, Via Borgospesso 25, 20121, www.modicami.com Moncler, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 11/12, 20121, www.moncler.com Moncler, Via Monteapoleone 1, 20121, www.moncler.com Montezemolo Store, Corso Garibaldi 20 angolo Via Palermo, 20121, www.montezemolostore.com MooRER, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121, www.moorer.clothing Mosca, Corso Venezia 39, 20121 Moschino, Via S. Andrea 25, 20121, www.moschino.com North Sails, Via Durini 27, 20122, www.webstore.northsails.com Numero 21, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121, www.numeroventuno.com Off-WHite, Via Bigli 2, 20121, www.off---white.com Pal Zileri, Via Manzoni 38, 20121, www.palzileri.com Paladini, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121, www.paladinilingerie.com Parosh, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121, www.parosh.com Pasì, Piazza Risorgimento 10, 20129, www.pasimilano.it Paul and Shark, Via Montenapoleone 16, www.paulandshark.com Paul Smith, Via Manzoni 30, 20121, www.paulsmith.com Philipp Plein, Corso Venezia 7, 20121, www.plein.com Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 62, 20121, www.prada.com Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63/65, 20121, www.prada.com Prada, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121, www.prada.com Prada, Via S. Andrea 21, 20121, www.prada.com Pupi Solari, Piazza Tommaseo 2, 20123, www.pupisolari.com Ralph Lauren, Via della Spiga 5, www.ralphlauren.it Red Valentino, Corso Venezia 6, 20121, www.redvalentino.com Rick Owens, Via Monte di Pietà 13, 20121, www.rickowens.eu Roberto Cavalli, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121, www.robertocavalli.com Roccobarocco, Via della Spiga 50, 20121, www.roccobarocco.com Rosso 35, Via Pontaccio 7, 20121, www.rosso35.com Royal Britannia Boutique, Via S. Clemente 1, 20122 Rubinacci, Via Gesù 1, 20121, www.marianorubinacci.com Saint Laurent, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 21, 20121, www.ysl.com Saint Laurent, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121, www.ysl.com Salvatore Ferragamo Via Montenapoleone 20/4, 20121, www.ferragamo.com Salvatore Ferragamo Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121, www.ferragamo.com Sandro, Via Bigli 21, 20121, www.sandro-paris.it Seeds, Via Palermo 1, 20121, www.seedsonweb.it Simonetta Ravizza, Via Santo Spirito 13, 20121, www.simonettaravizza.com Simonetta, Via Manzoni 42, 20121, www.simonetta.it Slowear Venezia,Via Solferino, 18, 20121, www.slowear.com Stefano Ricci, Via Gesù 3, 20121, www.stefanoricci.com Stella McCartney, Via Santo Spirito 3, 20121, www.stallamccartney.com Stone Island, Via G. Matteotti 18, 20121, www.stoneisland.com Suede, Via Marghera 16, 20149, www.suede.it Suede, Viale Piave 33, 20129, www.suede.it Sunny H, Via Vincenzo Monti 36, 20123 Super, Piazza S. Marco 1, 20121, www.superboutique.it Tearose, Via Croce Rossa 2, 20121, www.tearose.it Tom Ford, Via Pietro Verri 3, 20121, www.tomford.com
MILAN’S FINEST by
issue 5 December 2022 subscriptions: www.legrandmag.com
Transit, Via Fiori Chiari 2, 20121, www.transit.it Valentino, Via Montenapoleone 20, 20121, www.valentino.com Versace, Via Montenapoleone, 11, 20121, www.versace.com Vivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121, www.viviennewestwood.com Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14, 20123, www.waitandsee.it Wolford, Via Manzoni angolo Via Bigli, 20121, www.wolford.com Woolrich, Corso Venezia 3, 20121, www.woolrich.com Wp Store, Via Borgogna 3, 20121, www.wplavori.com Zadig et Voltaire, Via Santo Spirito 18, 20121, www.zadig-et-voltaire.com Zimmermann, Via Santo Spirito 19, 20121, www.zimmermannwear.com shoes
&
bags
Almini, Via Bagutta 24, 20121, www.almini.com Aquazzura, Via S. Andrea 12, 20121, www.aquazzura.com Baldinini, Via Montenapoleone 25, 20121, www.baldinini-shop.com Bally, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121, www.bally.it Barrett, Via Gesù 9, 20121, www.barrett.it Berluti, Via Montenapoleone 27, 20121, www.store.berluti.com Calzoleria Rivolta, Via della Spiga 17, 20121, www.calzoleriarivolta.com Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121, www.casadei.com Church’s, Via S. Andrea 11, 20121, www.church-footwear.com Coccinelle, Via Manzoni 28 angolo Via Bigli, 20121, www.coccinelle.com Colombo, Via della Spiga 9, 20121, www.sgcolombo.com Cromia, Corso Venezia 3, 20121, www.cromia.it Devi Kroell, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121, www.devikroell.com Doucal’s, Via Gesù 15, 20121, www.doucals.com Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121, www.fratellirossetti.com Gianni Chiarini, Via della Spiga 46, 20121, www.giannichiarini.com Gianvito Rossi, Via Santo Spirito 7, 20121, www.gianvitorossi.com Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, www.giuseppezanotti.com Hogan, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121, www.hogan.com Il Bisonte, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121, www.ilbisonte.com Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1/A, 20121, www.jimmychoo.com Le Silla, Via S. Andrea 3, 20121, www.lesilla.com Longchamp, Via della Spiga 6, 20121, www.longchamp.com Loriblu, Via Manzoni 40, 20121, www.loriblu.com Nero Giardini, Corso Venezia 9, 20121, www.nerogiardini.online Philippe Model, Via S. Andrea 17, 20121, www.philippemodel.com Pollini, Via della Spiga 15, 20121, www.pollini.com Premiata, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20135, www.premiata.it René Caovilla, Via Bagutta 38, 20121, www.renecaovilla.com Rimowa, Via S. Andrea 8, 20121, www.rimowa.com Roberto Festa, Corso Venezia 21, 20121, www.robertofesta.it Santoni, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121, www.santonishoes.com Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121, www.santonishoes.com Save My Bag, Via Manzoni 37, 20121, www.shop-smb.com Serapian, Via della Spiga 42, 20121, www.serapian.com Silvano Lattanzi, Via Gesù 11, 20121, www.silvanolattanzi.com Tiziano Colasante, Via Borgospesso 25, 20121, www.tizianocolasante.it Tod’s, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121, www.tods.com Tod’s, Via Montenapoleone 13, 20121, www.tods.com Valextra, Via Manzoni 3, 20121, www.valextra,com accessories
&
leisure
Bolaffi, Via Manzoni 7, 20121, www.bolaffi.it Borsalino, Via S. Andrea 5, 20121, www.borsalino.com Cappelleria Melegari Dal 1914, Via Paolo Sarpi 19, 20154, www.cappelleriamelegari.com Cappelleria Mutinelli, Corso Buenos Aires 5, 20124, www.mutinellicappellimilano.com De Bernardi, Via Pattari 6, 20121, www.debernardisrl.it E Marinella, Via Manzoni 23, 20121, www.emarinella.com Gallo, Via Manzoni 16, 20121, www.gallo1927.com High Tech, Piazza Venticinque Aprile 12, 20124, www.cargomilano.it Loox, Via Borgogna 4, 20121, www.loox.it Lorenzi, Piazza F. Meda 3, 20121, www.lorenzi-milano.com Montblanc, Via Montenapoleone 27b, 20121, www.montblanc.com Ottica Manzoni, Via Manzoni 12, 20121, www.otticamanzonimilano.com Pineider, Via Manzoni 12, 20121, www.pineider.com Roger Vivier, Via Sant’Andrea, 17, 20121, www.rogervivier.com Sermoneta, Via della Spiga 46, 20121, www.sermonetagloves.com Ulturale, Via Bigli 6, 20144, www.ulturale.com watches
&
jewellery
apm, Via della Spiga angolo Via Borgospesso, www.apm.mc Audemars Piguet, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121, www.audemarspiguet.com Bijoux de Paris, Via Manzoni 12, 20121, www.bijouxdeparis.it Boutique Dodo, Corso Genova, 12, 20123, www.dodo.it Boutique Dodo, Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 9, 20121, www.dodo.it Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121, www.it.bucellati.com Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121, www.bulgari.com Busatti, By Appointment, www.busattimilano.com Cartier, Via Gesù 4, 20121, www.cartier.com Chantecler, Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121, www.chantecler.it Charis, Via Palermo 11, 20121, www.charismilano.it Crivelli, Via della Spiga 1, 20121, www.crivelligioielli.com Cusi, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121, www.cusimontenapoleone.com Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121, www.damiani.com Franck Muller, Via della Spiga 19, 20121, www.franckmuller.com Gagà, Corso Venezia 8, 20121, www.gagamilano.com
© 2022 LE GRAND MAG MEDIA w w w. l e g r a n d m a g . c o m @legrandmag.com newsroom@legrandmag.com 129 New Bond Street, Mayfair London, W1S 1EA - United Kingdom
JOURNAL MILAN’S FINEST
Gioielleria Liviani, Corso Venezia 23, 20121 Gioielli Sas, Via dell’Orso 3, 20121, www.gioiellisas.com Giolina e Angelo, Via Solferino 22A, 20121, www.giolinaeangelo.com Giorgio Gregato, Via San Fermo 1, 20121 Giovanni Raspini, Corso Monforte 7, 20121, www.giovanniraspini.com Giovanni Raspini, Via della Spiga 33, 20121 www.giovanniraspini.com Iwc, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121, www.iwc.com Jaeger LeCoultre, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121, www.jaeger.lecoultre.com La Caramella D’Oro, Via Fiori Chiari 5, 20121, www.lacaramelladoro.com Les Nereides, Via dell’Orso 18, 20121, www.lesnereides.com Locman, Via Manzoni 11, 20121, www.locman.it Lucia Odescalchi, Via Gerolamo Morone 8, 20121, www.luciaodescalchi.com Malvezzi, Via Borgospesso 6, 20121, www.malvezzigioielli.it Marina Fossati, Via Gesù 15, 20121, www.marinafossati.com Merù Gioielli, Via Solferino 3, 20121, www.merugioielli.it Moreschi, Corso Venezia 5, 20121, www.moreschi.it Nomination, Corso Venezia 6, 20121, www.nomination.com Panerai, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121, www.panerai.com Pasquale Bruni, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121, www.pasqualebruni.com Passatempo, Via dell’Orso 18, 20121 Pederzani, Via Manzoni 29, 20121, www.gioielleriapederzani.com Pellini, Via Morigi 9, 20123, www.pellini.it Pennisi, Via Alessandro Manzoni 29, 20121, www.gioielleriapennisi.com Pianegonda, Via Gesù 3, www.pianegonda.com Pisa Orologeria, Via Verri 7, 20121, www.pisaorologeria.com Pomellato, Via Montenapoleone 17, 20121, www.pomellato.com Pomellato, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17, 20121, www.pomellato.com Salvini, Via Montenapoleone 25, 20121, www.salvini.com San Babila Gioielli, Via Umberto Giordano 2, 20121 Scavia, Via Rossari 5, 20121, www.scavia.it Tiffany, Piazza del Duomo angolo via Ugo Foscolo 1, 20121, www.tiffany.com Tiffany, Via della Spiga 19a, 20121, www.tiffany.com Ultima Edizione, Corso Venezia 8, 20121, www.ultimaedizione.com Van Cleef & Arpels, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121, www.vancleefarpels.com Vhernier, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121, www.vhernier.it Villa, Via San Carpoforo 3, 20121, www.villa.it cosmetics
Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121, www.acquadiparma.com Chanel Fragrance & Beauty, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 14, 20121, www.services.chanel.com Arts Design, Via dell’Orso 12, 20121, www.arts-design.it Jo Malone, Via Manzoni 18, 20121, www.jomalone.com Mazzolari, Corso Monforte 2, 20121, www.mazzolari-milano.com Santa Maria Novella, Corso Magenta 22, 20123, www.smnovella.com home
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interiors
Alimonti, Corso Venezia 53, 20121, www.alimontimilano.eu Antonio Lupi Design, Via di Porta Tenaglia 7, 20121, www.antoniolupi.it Arclinea, Via Durini 7, 20122, www.milano.arclinea.com Areae, Via Palermo 5, 20121, www.areae.eu Armani Casa, Corso Venezia 14, 20121, www.armani.com/casa Artemide, Corso Monforte 19, 20121, www.artemide.com B&B Italia, Via Durini 14, 20122, www.bebitalia.com Barovier & Toso, Via Durini 5, 20121, www.barovier.com Binova, Via Durini 17, 20122, www.binovamilano.it Blanc Mariclò, Via dell’Orso 6, 20121, www.blancmariclo.com Borgospesso Interiors, Via Borgospesso 18, 20121, www.borgospessointeriors.com Cappellini Milano, Via Santa Cecilia, 4, 20122, www.cappellini.com Cassina, Via Durini 16, 20122, www.cassina.com Ceramica Cielo, Via Pontaccio 6, 20121, www.ceramicacielo.com Colefax and Fowler, Via Palermo 8, 20121, www.colefax.com Dalla Rosè, Via dell’Orso 12, 20121, www.dallarose.it De Padova, Via Santa Cecilia 7, 20129, www.depadova.com Design Republic, Piazza del Tricolore, 2, 20129, www.designrepublic.com Fendi Cucine, Via Durini 19, 20122, www.lmfmilano.it Flos, Corso Monforte 9, 20121, www.flos.com Foscarini, Corso Monforte 19, 20121, www.foscarini.com Frette, Via Manzoni 11, 20121, www.frette.com Funky Table, Via Santa Marta 19, 20123, www.funkytable.it Gervasoni, Via Durini 7, 20122, www.m.gervasoni1882.it Gessi, Via Manzoni 16/A, 20121, www.gessi.com Green Wise, Via Palermo 5, 20121, www.greenwiseitaly.com Interni, Via Turati 8, 20122, www.internionline.it Lenzuolissimi, Via dell’Orso 14, 20121, www.lenzuolissimi.it Lisa Corti, Via Lecco 2, 20124, www.lisacorti.com Luxury Living, Via Durini 11, 20122, www.luxurylivinggroup.com Luxury Living, Via Durini 23, 20122 www.luxurylivinggroup.com Natuzzi, Via Durini 24, 20122, www.natuzzi.it Nemo, Via Santa Cecilia 2 angolo Corso Monforte, 20121, www.nemolighting.com Officine Gullo, Via Dell’Annunciata 12, 20121, www.officinegullo.com Palermo Uno, Via Santa Maria alla Porta 5, 20123, www.palermouno.it Poltrona Frau, Via Manzoni 30, 20121, www.poltronafrau.com Porada, Via Borgospesso 18, 20121, www.porada.it Porro, Via Durini 15, 20122, www.porro.com Raw, Corso Magenta 10, 20121, www.rawmilano.it Raw, Via Palermo 1, 20121, www.rawmilano.it Sahrai, Via Manzoni 45, 20121, www.sahrai.com Salvioni, Via Durini 3, 20122, www.salvioniarredamenti.it Sawaya & Moroni, Via Clerici 1, 20121, www.sawayamoroni-architects.com Society Limonta Milano, Via Palermo 1, 20121, www.societylimonta.com
Spotti, Viale Piave 27, 20129, www.spotti.com MC Selvini, Via Carlo Poerio 3, 20129, www.mcselvini.it Talenti, Via Pontaccio 19, 20121, www.talentisrl.com Unopiù, Via Pontaccio 9, 20121, www.unopiu.it Vetrerie di Empoli, Via Montenapoleone 22, 20121, www.vetreriediempoli.it Visionnaire, Piazza Cavour 3, 20121, www.visionnaire-home.com art
&
design
Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21a, 20121, www.fornasetti.com Galleria d’arte Il Segno, Via dell’Orso 1, 20121, www.arteilsegno.it Galleria Silva, Via Borgospesso 12, 20121, www.galleriasilva.com Kartell, Via Turati 1, 20121, www.kartell.com Nilufar, Via della Spiga 32, 20121, www.nilufar.com Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14, 20123, www.rossanaorlandi.com Venini, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121, www.venini.com Walter Padovani, Via Santo Spirito 26a, 20121, www.walterpadovani.it vintage
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antiques
Altomani & Sons, Via Borgospesso, 14, 20121, www.altomani.com Antichità Poliarts, Via Vigevano, 33 , 20144, www.antichitapoliarts.it Antichità Subert, Via della Spiga, 42, 20121, www.subert.it Cavalli e Nastri, Via Brera 2, 20121, www.cavallienastri.com Eleuteri, Via S. Andrea 7, 20121, www.eleuteri.nyc Giorgio Baratti Antiquario, Via Bigli, 11, 20121, www.giorgiobaratti.it L’Angolo D’Oro, Via Fratelli Bronzetti 9, 20129, www.langolodorowatches.it Le Gioie di Funaro, Via Pontaccio 17, 20121, www.legioiedifunaro.com stationery
Antica Cartoleria Novecento, Piazza Risorgimento 3, 20129 Fabriano Boutique, Via Ponte Vetero 17, 20121, www.fabrianoboutique.com Fratelli Bonvini, Via Tagliamento 1, 20139, www.bonvini1909.com I Giorni Di Carta, Corso Garibaldi 81, 20121, www.igiornidicarta.it Pettinaroli, Via Brera 4, 20121, www.fpettinaroli.it Rigadritto, Via Brera 6, 20121, www.rigadritto.com toy stores
Città Del Sole, Largo Settimio Severo 4 (Corso Vercelli), 20144, www.cittadelsole.it FAO Schartz, Via Orefici 15 , 20123, www.faoschwarz.it L’Orso Poeta Daelli Arte e Gioco,Via Lazzaretto 2, 20124, www.artegioco.com Mihai Bambini e Dintorni, Corso Indipendenza 14, 20129 Nano Bleu, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20122, www.nanobleu.it Tofy Toys, Via Fratelli Ruffini 9, 20123, www.tofytoys.it Tondomondo, Via San Calogero 27, 20123, www.infotondomondo.it flower
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plants
Clori Home & Flowers, Corso di Porta Vigentina 36, 20122, www.clorimilano.it, +39 02 3952 5740 Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7, 20121, www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it, +39 02 2901 4390 Green Fingers Market, Via Savona 21, 20144, www.greenfingers.market, +39 02 5004 3657 If Creative Hub, Via Vigevano 15, 20141, www.ifcreativehub.it, +39 351 599 4549 La Fioreria, Via Cuccagna 2, 20135, www.lafioreriacuccagna.info, +39 339 392 7781 Numero 9, Via Pastrengo 9, 20159, www.numeronove.it, +39 02 6680 1669 Offfi, Via Carmagnola 8, 20159, www.offfi.com, +39 02 8341 2117 Potafiori, Via Salasco 17, 20136, www.potafiori.com, +39 02 8706 5930 Wild - Living With Plants, Via Sirtori 11, 20129, www.wildmilano.it, +39 02 2952 6732 book stores
Fondazione Feltrinelli, Viale Pasubio 5, 20154 Milan Libreria Bocca, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 12, 20121 Milan Libreria dello Spettacolo, Via Terraggio 11, 20123 Milan Libreria Malavasi, L.go Ildefonso Schuster 1, 20122 Milan Libreria Punto Einaudi, Via Orti 19, 20122 Milan Libri Senza Data, Ripa di Porta Ticinese 57, 20143 Milan Rizzoli, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 11/12, 20121 Milan pâtisseries
Bastianello, Via Borgogna 5, 20121, www.bastianello.com Cova, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121, www.pasticceriacova.com, +39 02 76005599 Cucchi, Corso Genova 1, 20123, www.pasticceriacucchi.it, +39 02 89409793 Ernst Knam, Via Anfossi 10, 20135, www.eknam.com Galli, Corso di Porta Romana 2, 20122, www.giovannigalli.com, +39 02 86453112 Gatullo, Piazzale di Porta Lodovica 2, 20136, www.gatullo.it, +39 02 58310497 Iginio Massari, Via G.Marconi 4 ang. Piazza A.Diaz, 20122, www.iginomassari.it Leonardo, Via Aurelio Saffi 7, 20123, +39024390302 Lorini, Via Castel Morrone 23, 20129, www.pasticceria-lorini-milano.it, +39 02 29516086 Marchesi, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121, www.pasticceriamarchesi.com, +39 02 76008238 Marotin, Via Archimede 59, 20129, +39 02 73957790 Pasticceria Giacomo, Via Pasquale Sottocorno 5, 20129, www.giacomopasticceria.com, +39 02 76319147 Pasticceria Marchesi 1824, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121, www.pasticceriamarchesi.com/it, +39 02 76008238 Pasticceria Marchesi 1824, Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/a, 20123, www.pasticceriamarchesi.com/it, +39 02 862770 Ravizza, Via Hoepli 3, 20121, www.food4love.it San Carlo, Via Matteo Bandello 1, 20123, www.pasticceriasancarlo.it, +39 02 4812227 Sissi, Piazza Risorgimento 6, 20129, +39 02 76014664 St. Ambreus, Corso Matteotti 7, 20121, www.santambreusmilano.com, +39 02 76000540
bars
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MILAN’S FINEST by
issue 5 December 2022 subscriptions: www.legrandmag.com
restaurants
a Santa Lucia, Via San Pietro all’Orto 3, 20121, www.asantalucia.it, +39 02 7602 3155 Antica Trattoria della Pesa, Viale Pasubio 10, 20154, www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com, +39 02 6555741 Armani Ristorante at Armani Hotel Milano (Seventh Floor), Via Alessandro Manzoni 31, 20121, www.armani.com, +39 02 8883 8897 Assunta Madre, Via Vittor Pisani 2, 20124, www.ristoranteassuntamadre.it, +39 02 6706138 Bar Il Cigno Nero, Via Della Spiga 33, 20121, +39 02 7602 2620 Bar Luce Fondazione Prada, L.go Isarco 2, 20139, www.fondazioneprada.org Bar Martini, Corso Venezia 15, 20122, www.world.dolcegabbana.com Barbacoa, Via Scipio Slataper 19, 20125, www.barbacoaitalia.it, +39 02 6883883 Berton, Via Mike Bongiorno 13, 20124, www.ristoranteberton.com, +39 02 67075801 Bice, Via Borgospesso 12, 20121, www.bicemilano.it, +39 02 795528 Boeucc, Piazza Belgioioso 2, 20121, www.boeucc.it, +39 02 76020244 Borgia Milano, Via Washington 56, 20146, www.borgiarestaurant.com Bottiglieria Spartaco, Via Spartaco 11, 20135 Bulk, Via Aristotile Fioravanti 4, 20154, www.morellimilano.it Camparino Galleria, P.za del Duomo 21, 20121, www.camparino.com Casa Cipriani Milano, Via Palestro 24, 20121, www.casaciprianimilano.com Contraste, Via Giuseppe Meda 2, 20136, www.contrastemilano.it, +39 02 49536957 Corallium, Viale Fratelli Induno 1, 20154, www.coralliumristorante.it/it/, +39 02 89073340 Corner 58 by Roberto Conti, Viale Argonne 11, 20133, IG - Corner58_byrobertoconti, +39 02 49420188 Cracco, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121, www.ristorantecracco.it, + 39 02 876774 D’O, Piazza della Chiesa 14 San Pietro All’Olmo, 20100, www.cucinapop.do, +39 02 9362209 Dim Sum, Via Nino Bixio 20, 20129, www.dimsummilano.com, +39 02 29522821 Don Carlos at Grand Hotel et de Milan, Via Alessandro Manzoni 29, 20121, www.grandhoteletdemilan.com, +39 02 723141 Don Lisander, Via Alessandro Manzoni 12/A, 20121, www.donlisander.com, +39 0276020130 El Brellin, Alzaia Naviglio Grande 14, 20144, www.brellin.it, +39 02 58101351 El Porteno Arena, Viale Elvezia 4, 20154, www.elporteno.it, +39 02 58437593 Felix Lo Basso Home & Restaurant, Via Carlo Goldoni 36, 20129, www.felixlobassorestaurant.it, +39 02 45409759 Finger’s Garden, Via Giovanni Keplero 2, 20124, www.fingersrestaurants.com, +39 02 606544 Food Writers, Via Domenico Millelire 14, 20147, www.food-writers.it, +39 389 5380120 Giacomo Bistrot, Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6 , 20129, www.giacomobistrot.com, +39 02 76022653 Giacomo Rosticceria, Via Pasquale Sottocorno 36, 20129, www.giacomomilano.it, +39 02 76023313 Giannino dal 1899, Via Vittor Pisani 6, 20124, www.gianninoristorante.it, +39 02 36159520 Gong, Corso Concordia 8, 20129, www.gongoriental.com, +39 02 7602 3873 Horse, Viale Montenero 21, 20135, www.horsecafe.eatbu.com, +39 02 550120169 Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia, Via Privata Raimondo Montecuccoli 6, 20147, www.aimoenadia.com, +39 02 416886 Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone, Via Santo Spirito 10 - Via Gesù 5 at Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi 20121, www.ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it, +390276001123 La Briciola, Via Marsala 2, 20121, www.labriciolamare.com, +39.02.6551012 La Brisa, Via Brisa 15, 20123, www.ristorantelabrisa.it, +39 02 86450521 La Bullona, Via Piero della Francesca 64, 20154, www.bullona.com, +39 02 33607600 Langosteria, Via Savona 10, 20144, www.langosteria.com, +39 02 58111649 Latteria San Marco, Via San Marco 24, 20121, +39 02 6597653 Lubar, Via Palestro 16, 20121, www.lubar.it, +39 02 83527769 Mandarin Bar & Bistrot at Mandarin Oriental Milano, Via Monte di Pietà 18, 20121, www.mandarinoriental.com, +39 02 8731 8898 Morelli, Via Aristotile Fioravanti 4, 20154, www.morellimilano.it, +39 02 80010918 Nobu at Armani Hotel Milano, Via Gastone Pisoni, 1, 20121, www.armani.com, +39 02 62312645 Omega 3, Via Francesco Guicciardini 8, 20129, www.ristoranteomega3.it, +39 02 76024111 Peck, Via Spadari 9, 20123, www.peck.it, +39 02 8023163 Pescatore, Via Atto Vannucci 5, 20135, www.trattoriadelpescatore.it, +39 02 58320452 Potafiori Salasco, Via Salasco, 17, 20136, www.potafiori.com, +39. 02 87065930 Ralph Lauren, Via della Spiga 5, www.ralphlauren.it Ribot, Via Marco Cremosano 41, 20148, www.ribotmilano.it, +39 02 33001646 Ristorante Da Giacomo, Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6, 20129, www.giacomomilano.com Ristorante Olmetto, Via Disciplini 20, 20123, www.ristoranteolmetto.it, +39 02 91663899 Romito at Bulgari Hotel Milano, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b, 20121, www.bulgarihotels.com, +39 02 805 8051 Sadler, Via Ascanio Sforza 77, 20141, www.ristorantesadler.it, +39 0258104451 Sant Ambroeus, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 7, 20121, www.santambroeus.com, +39 02 76000540 Savini Milano 1867, Via Ugo Foscolo 5, 20121, www.savinimilano.it, +39 02 72003433 Seta at Mandarin Oriental Hotel Milano, Via Monte di Pietà 18, 20121, www.mandarinoriental.com, +39 02 8731 8897 Sima Townhouse, Corso di Porta Vigentina 12, 20122, www.simatownhouse.com, +39 02 8646 5127 Sine by Di Pinto, Viale Umbria 126, 20135, www.sinerstaurant.com, +39 02 36594613 Sumire, Via Varese 1, 20121, www.ristorantesumire.com, +39 02 9147 1595 Tagiura, Via Tagiura 5, 20146, www.tagiura.it, +39 02 48950613 TakeAway Bistrot, Via San Marco 33, 20121, www.takeawaybistrot.it, +39 02 6552204 Terrazza Gallia at Excelsior Hotel Gallia, Piazza Duca D’Aosta 9, 20124, www.terrazzagallia.com, +39 02 67853514 Terrazza Martini, P.za del Duomo 36, 20121, www.martini.com The Doping Club, Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio 8, 20123, www.aethoshotels.com/ milan/the-doping-club The Manzoni, Via Manzoni 5, 20121, www.themanzoni.com, +39 02 8909 4348 The Fisher, Viale Bianca Maria 8, 20129, www.thefisher.it , +39 02 545 5141 The Doping Bar, The Yard by Aethos Hotels, Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8, 20123, www.theyardplaces.com, +39 02 89415901 Voce Aimo e Nadia, Piazza della Scala 6, 20121, www.voceaimoenadia.com, +39 02 40701935 Voce in Giardino, Via Manzoni 10, 20121, www.voceaimoenadia.com, +39 02 40701935 Yuzu, Via Lazzaro Papi 2, 20135, www.yuzumilano.it, +39 02 87087152
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Enjoy La Scala at home
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