Becoming the World’s Top Fashion Retailer
Fast-fashion retailers are considered the bottom-feeders in fashion. They are widely credited – or discredited depending on which side of the cash register you are on – with copying designer-inspired trends, producing them in large quantities and selling them for pennies on the dollar of the namesake brands.
Sweden’s H&M operating 5,000 stores world wide, Zara with 2,200 locations, owned by Spain’s Inditex and Uniqlo with 2,300 stores, owned by Japan’s Fast Retailing, are the undisputed leaders in so-called fast fashion.
Fast fashion hit a speed bump in the Covid pandemic. Supply chains came to a stand still as manufacturing plants were closed and consumers under stay-at-home orders had no place to wear new outfits. Shoppers retreated from trendy styles to comfort selections.
All of the leaders had something to offer in the comfort-fashion realm, but Uniqlo had more, being more lifestyle-oriented – or as the com pany calls it “LifeWear” – than fashion driven as H&M and Zara are.
BATTLE FOR FASHION DOMINANCE
Strict line-by-line comparisons of the three fast-fashion market leaders is hard due to different financial calendars, but it is safe to say that the race is extremely tight between all three titans.
H&M Group just reported through November 30,2020, registering $22.4 billion in revenues (SEK 187.0 billion). Inditex’s latest covers ninemonths through October 31, 2020, reporting a total of $17.8 billion (€14.1 billion), including all seven of its brands. In 2019, however, Zara generated about 70% of the company’s roughly $34 billion in total revenues.
And Fast Retailing did $22 billion in fiscal 2019 with 83% under Uniqlo (Yen 2,287.5 billion in total and Yen 1,898.9 billion for Uniqlo). Based upon first quarter 2021 results, it predicts total turnover of $21 billion this fiscal year ending August 2021 (Yen 2,220 billion).
That said, Uniqlo has its sights set on becom ing the world’s number one fashion brand and it is well on its way to fashion dominance.
It just claimed the title of the number one fash ion brand in China. And it has far more penetra tion in that market than its competitive peers – 800 stores in Mainland China compared with 500 H&M locations and about 200 Zara stores.
With China projected to overtake the U.S. as the world’s number one apparel market by 2023, Uniqlo has a head start in the race.
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
While Uniqlo shares the fast-fashion label with H&M and Zara, it takes a very different approach to these other retailers. Rather than simply pumping out masses of clothing for immediate consumption to be quickly discard ed for next week’s or next season’s styles, Uniqlo specializes in the basics that have a season-less appeal.
“We don’t chase trends. People mistakenly say that Uniqlo is a fast-fashion brand. We’re not. We are about clothing that’s made for everyone,” CEO Tadashi Yanai explained.
Edited, which is a market intelligence platform that compiles data about products available on retailers’ websites, found that as of February, Uniqlo listed 6,209 SKUs, as compared to Zara’s 9,198 and H&M’s 20,860.
“Zara and H&M bring in a lot frequently,” explains Kayla Marci, Edited’s market analyst. “Uniqlo is calculated and very consistent in its more moderate cadence. Given their moder ation, I’d call Uniqlo a ‘diet’ fast-fashion brand.”
This restraint lends a greater stability in the buying cycle, with one-third of Uniqlo items available between six and nine months, where as 66% of Zara’s products are under threemonths old.
And with its focus on quality over quality and longevity instead of fast-fashion’s quick expi ration dates, Uniqlo makes good on keeping their sustainability promise.
EASY-TO-WEAR & COORDINATE ESSENTIALS WITH COLLABORATIONS
Comfortable and easy-to-wear basics is Uniq lo’s trump card and its gotten more mileage out of it because of the changes people have made in their clothing choices during the pandemic. Fast Retailing’s Yanai foresees consumers’ casual comfort styling to carry on even after.
“The days of suits have come to an end and the days of everyday wear have begun,” he shared in an interview with Asia Nikkei. “People will select clothes that are comfortable to wear as working clothes, as well as in their homes. There will be no need for clothes that are worn for a year and then are discarded.”
However, for those male customers who still need classic business clothing, Uniqlo offers a customization service for blazers and shirts that promise a tailor-made feel for an off-therack price starting at $99.90 for a jacket and $9.90 for a shirt.
To make for easy mix-and-matching, nearly 90% of the items currently listed on Uniqlo’s websites are plain, with no pattern beyond a simple stripe. “Good everyday pieces is what Uniqlo is known for,” Edited’s Marci says. “Other retailers are playing catch up now.”
But Uniqlo also spices up its plain-vanilla fashion through licensed collaborations, most recently featuring artwork by Andy Warhol, Disney, street artist Keith Haring and the Louvre. It also has been successful in the +J collaboration with fashion designer Jil Sander that keeps to Uniqlo’s classic everyday styling.
BIG
LEVERAGING TECHNOLOGY
Fast Retailing’s Yanai described Uniqlo as a “digital consumer retail company,” which sums up how it leverages technology from its factories through its supply chain and to the consumer. Since 2016 Uniqlo has invested more on e-commerce than physical retail in its home market and has focused on expanding online shopping in Japan, across China and Southeast Asia and in the U.S.
That investment is paying off as the number of visits to Uniqlo’s website rose 30% year-overyear in 2020, far faster than that of H&M (0.9%) and Zara (13%), reports Caroline Kim, lead retail industry consultant for SimilarWeb, a company that tracks online traffic.
It also boasts more high quality online traffic than its direct competitors. “Of the three players, Uniqlo over-indexes on desktop traffic, which bodes well for sales because desktop shoppers are highly engaged and more likely to convert,” Kim asserts. “H&M and Zara, on the other hand, have a higher percentage of mobile web users who are less engaged, stay on the site for a shorter amount of time and are more likely to bounce off the site.”
Over half (56%) of Uniqlo’s site visitors originate on desktops, compared with 34% for H&M and 40% for Zara. But Uniqlo also leverages technology into the design and con struction of its clothing, similar to the approach of sports and activewear companies but to a lesser extent in traditional fashion.
“The technical attributes used within garments really differentiates their products from other fashion brands, especially at such low prices,” Edited’s Marci says, pointing to Uniqlo’s fabri cations including HEATTECH to keep people warm and AIRism to keep wearers cool.
“Technology is a big component that is at the core of Uniqlo. It’s used not to cut corners or speed up processes, but to improve the prod uct for the customer,” she maintains.
AFFORDABILITY
With all these other factors going for it, Uniq lo’s dedication to the needs of its customers is on full display when it comes to price. It is highly leveraged in the $20 and under price range (59% of its current offerings) compared with 28% for H&M and 25% for Zara.
It gains advantage there with an emphasis on underwear, hosiery, accessories and ward robe essentials that need replacing more often than outerwear and denim. The need to repeat such purchases drives traffic to the store and website where customers can discover its higher-priced offerings, like the +J women’s cashmere-blend jacket on sale for $179.90.
Given the financial hit consumers across the world experienced through the pandemic, Uniqlo’s Yanai firmly believes the brand is well positioned for what comes next.
“As people economize, the quality of brands and products will be more important,” he said. “Consumers will select truly good brands.”
UNIQLO IS UNIQUE
Uniqlo’s stated mission is “unlocking the power of clothing,” by which it means “by designing, making and selling good clothing, we can make the world a better place.” It’s a lofty ideal for a fashion brand and one that sets it apart from other brands which simply want to make customer look stylish and fashionable.
It is right in keeping with the spirit of our times, as Yanai expressed in his latest CEO message:
“The meaning of clothes is also changing as we witness a strong shift away from clothes worn to beautify or emphasize the wearer’s social status to clothes designed to last and enhance comfortable everyday living. We continue to evolve clothes based on our LifeWear concept for simple, quality clothing carved from a quest to fully satisfy daily life needs and to enrich all people’s lives everywhere.”
Secret Ingredients the Uniqlo
8 Tips From The
Retailer
Despite 2020 being one of the most challenging years for retailers in modern history, Uniqlo appears to be weath ering the pandemic economy. Fast Retailing’s most recent results reporting the three months ending in November showed a minimal sales dip of 7.2% YoY with bright spots found through the success of collaborations, loungewear and activewear.
This report uses Market Intelli gence from our state-of-the-art platform to unpack what keeps Uniqlo ticking.
Ingredients of Strategy
Fast Retailing’s CEO Tadashi Yanai once declared Uniqlo is a “digital consumer retail company.” That sentence alone sums up the genius of the Uniqlo model, shedding light on how it set itself up for surviving the pandemic. Look how far down the description Yanai places “retail.” Not only do consumers come ahead in the brand’s estimation of what it does, but digital is given the prime position.
“WE ARE A DIGITAL CONSUMER RETAIL COMPANY”
This has been the case since 2016, where techsavvy Uniqlo has continuously prioritized in vestment in e-commerce over physical retail. Last year, it pumped an estimated 80% funds into this channel over its home country’s brickand-mortar stores, while announcing plans to boost investment to expand online shopping in Japan, China, Southeast Asia and the US. With these calculated moves, Fast Retailing emerged from 2020 relatively unscathed with e-commerce sales in Japan surged 48% for the quarter ending November 30, while more tradi tional retailers faced with high operating costs were forced to permanently close locations.
Uniqlo’s penchant for tech is also reflected in its product offering. Despite often being um brellaed as a fast fashion brand, it foregoes selling the hottest, flash-in-the-pan styles. Instead, innovation transcends trends and popularizes the brand for providing functionality, ease and usefulness in its consumers’ lives. While technical fabrications have become commonplace in assortments such as activewear, Uniqlo redefined apparel by pioneering both AIRism, its comfort conditioning technology, and HEATTECH, a heat-retaining material. Early adoption of these innovations has positioned Uniqlo as the market leader in this space, a coveted spot consumers expect their garments now to work harder than ever.
Made for
With its customer base spanning all ages, demographics and eco nomic backgrounds –Uniqlo nails mass appeal. It achieves this by not pushing any one “look”, where all items are simple and cohesive with each other. Products rarely patterned beyond a simple stripe. Currently, 89% of items available online at Uniqlo Japan are plain.
More retailers have been hastening to champion diversity following the events of 2020. However, this is something Uniqlo has been working towards for a while, actively recruiting people with disabilities in Japan since 2001. Fast Retailing also recently joined the Valuable 500, an initiative that targets disability inclusion. In doing so, the company has taken a five-point commitment to support diversity and inclusion. Its sizing is getting more inclusive too. Across the US, styles are equally distributed across sizes, which run to up a men’s 3XL and women’s XXL.
Price Point
Uniqlo’s wide embrace and no-fuss approach to apparel fused with technical innovation mean consumers are getting more from their basics than they would at the average retailer. Its LifeWear collection really harnesses that wardrobe-building, uniform curation appeal – useful clothing at good prices.
Uniqlo’s price positioning is unique, with a 28% assortment emphasis on the under $10 price bracket. That firmly puts its focus on value – strikingly different to Zara which dom inates the $20-$40 interval. Just 10% of its assortment is priced over $50 at Uniqlo, com pared to 18% at fashion-driven Zara. H&M focuses on value, but places less emphasis on the very lowest price point.
Moderation
For the world’s second largest retailer, Uniqlo’s product assortment isn’t actually that big. Both Zara and H&M dwarf Uniqlo. Not only that, Uniqlo has trimmed back its assortment over time. To prove it’s not just an after effect of COVID, we compared the number of products in stock now vs. pre-pandemic 2019 and spotted a 2% decline.
Analyzing new arrivals also reveals a very defined seasonality that you don’t see at fast fashion retailers. Uniqlo has not been lured into year-round drops. In stead, it achieves maximum value with the delivery of large orders in consistent manufacturing batches. You can see a very regulated pattern of arrivals, es pecially in comparison to Zara and H&M who opt for the traditional fast fashion model of dropping a high number of products at a frequent cadence.
It’s more evidence that Uniqlo approaches product design very thoughtfully, as the CEO’s statement at the top of this article implied. Uniqlo’s emphasis on year-round wardrobe staples means the brand isn’t restricted to seasonal fashion trends with limited longevity. Instead, it’s capitalizing on the “see-now, buynow” approach consumers have towards fashion today.
Moderation at Uniqlo is also telling by analyzing the age of stock it is currently holding compared to a more trend-led business. Both Zara Spain and Uniqlo Japan currently stock no products that have been in the business longer than nine months. However, 66% of Zara’s products are under three months old, while 32% of Uniqlo items are available between six and nine months.
Uniqlo’s assortment offers the right amount of uniqueness thanks to collaboration and customization. The retailer has a history of tapping industry talent. Most recently, the successful +J collection in partnership with Jil Sander returned to Uniqlo. Previous collaborations have included J.W.Anderson, Christophe Lemaire, Undercover, Kaws and many more.
These collaborations and license deals with Disney, Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Peanuts and most recently Musée du Louvre injects hype into Uniqlo’s trend-light offering, raising the profile of the non-collab core range too.
With physical retail on hiatus, Uniqlo’s online customiza tion for blazers and shirts adds value to these products, which are challenging to sell without trying on. It also elevates the shopping experience, adding a personalized touch that other fast fashion brands don’t offer.
Emphasis
The categories Uniqlo invests in also sets it apart from other retailers its size. Unusually, it focuses very little on footwear, which is around 1% of prod ucts available online vs. 8% at Zara and 5% at H&M.
Underwear is 11% of the total assortment and is given more attention than outerwear. This category outstrips both H&M and Zara, making up 1% and 4%, respectively.
High investment here and in hosiery and accessories are how Uniqlo achieves that under $10 price point, cementing itself as the destination for core wardrobe items, which will need replacing more often than dresses or denim. Being wellstocked in these purse-friendly items is a smart move during the pandemic economy, where consumers are more frugal than ever with their spending. It also acts as a hook to get consumers interested in higher-priced goods, who may go online to buy essentials like Uniqlo socks or an AIRISM mask and discover a $179.90 seamless down coat.
Given how tech-minded Uniqlo is, there is real potential to expand its understocked sleepwear category, focusing on technical properties to differentiate itself in the currently booming market.
Uniqlo’s eco commitments and timeless design strikes a chord with millennials and Gen-Z consumers, who align themselves with brands that share their core values.
In its sustainability ranking, Good On You gave Uniqlo the “it’s a start” rating, as Uniqlo is “transparent about their policies and practices to manage some material issues and are making good progress on one or more of them.”
Sustainable initiatives are present within Uniqlo’s denim. Its BlueCycle method reduces water in production and finishes by up to 99%, and uses laser techniques as an alternative to hand processes such as sandpapering.
At the end of 2019, its revolutionary DRY-EX fabric, used on its men’s polo shirts and worn by professional ath letes, had an eco update. The construction was renewed from at least 75% recycled PET from polyester bottles, furthering Uniqlo’s commitment to sustainability.
Re.Uniqlo was launched last year. It is the brand’s recycling program where new pieces are upcycled and resold from unneeded Uniqlo clothes. The first item launched was a puffer jacket from 100% recycled down.
Sustainability
The Cheat Sheet for Perfect Fitting Jeans
Styling Tips for Uniqlo Men’s Jeans
Jeans aren’t just for days off. Nowadays, they’re important elements even in office wear. At Uniqlo, you’ll find huge varieties of colours, fabrics, and silhouettes, all created at the acclaimed Jeans Innovation Centre in L.A. With that said, you might be one of many who are uncertain of where to start. Discover how to choose the right pair of jeans for your desired look, along with classic styling ideas.
Jeans with slender silhouettes easily pair well with casual and clean-look arrangements. If your desired look is to have a neat overall feel, then pick up one of these.
This is Uniqlo’s slimmest pair of jeans. Its ultra-stretch denim was jointly developed with world-renowned denim manufacturer Kaihara Denim. It offers 40% stretch and 80% recovery, so its excellent kick back minimizes wear and tear at the knees. This pair pro vides both a tight silhouette and great comfort. The back pockets’ high placement also has a leg-lengthening effect.
This grey model exudes Eu ropean-chic, due to its sharp feel and dark tone. Moreover, its skinny fit creates a slim appearance that’s harder to achieve with other fits. This silhouette comes from coor dinating loose tops and tight bottoms. Tuck in a similarly coloured tee for a taller look, then layer a navy work shirt with an oversized cut to create a glossy finish.
EZY ULTRA STRETCH COLOUR JEANS
These jeans are made of an ultra-stretch satin fabric that offers extreme levels of stretch and recovery. The fabric also underwent a brushing process to produce a glossy finish, which gives personality and elevates your denim looks. It was also designed to be at the optimal length to minimize the need for alterations. An elasti cated waist lining reduces the need for wearing it with a belt. Simply put, these jeans are made to offer superb levels of ease and comfort, while creating a skinny silhouette.
Create contrast with a blue toned top and make the co lours stand out. Consider a striped shirt with an oversize cut because it creates a cool and clean feel, on top of having a good balance. It’s typical to contrast skinny-fit bottoms paired with loose tops for stylish silhouettes to create a blend of tops and bottoms that have sharply defined colours and patterns.
FOR A TASTEFULLY DISTINCT LOOK, CHOOSE THE COLOURED JEANS WITH EZY WAIST
SLIM FIT JEANS
If you’re looking for a vintage or rigid feel, check out slim-fit jeans that have straightforward designs. A pair of slim-fit jeans is an essential in every man’s wardrobe, and it’s available in denim that has a classic, vintage look.
Uniqlo’s slim-fit jeans have always had slim and straight silhouettes that produce longer-looking legs. This season’s jeans saw every aspect of the design and pattern redone to amplify this leg-lengthening effect. For example, new pocket placements, slightly narrower hems, with higher rise and knees. The “waterless” washed finish is produced by using advanced technology that was devel oped in house that significantly cuts water usage. The finish produces a vintage look, so these jeans both look and feel well worn.
The natural feel of these jeans is perfect for men who want a styled, casual look. Comfort Stretch denim looks naturally faded, and it has a great range of movement when you’re moving about. Put on this Anorak blouson to create a simple, sporty arrangement.
STRETCH SELVEDGE SLIM
FIT JEANS
These jeans are made of selvedge denim that’s woven on traditional shuttle looms. As the name suggests, the denim has been made to stretch. The pockets’ positions and angles along with the knees’ positions have been tweaked to produce a straight silhouette that’s suave and looks great. The buttons and rivets also received a chrome-like finish to create a contemporary feel. Simply put, these are quintessential jeans that flatter every time you pull them on.
ELEVATE SELVEDGE DENIM
JEANS AND THEIR SIGNATURE LOOK AND FEEL TO MATCH MODERN CLASSICS
If you like the great feeling that’s exclusive to selvedge denim as well as the wellworn fade, then choose this rigid design. The jeans’ fabric and silhouette alone create a modern feel. Revamp your daily outfits by adding this pair of selvedge jeans to the mix.
JEANS
EZY
This popular pair of jeans offers the look of classic jeans and the comfort of sweatpants. Research and development by finishing special ists resulted in updates that produce a better denim-like appearance. It’s not just the fabric that’s better, it now features a EZY waist design for greater comfort and convenience. They also provide a slimmer appearance, due to its slim tapered silhouette.
Black jeans are catching up to the trend, and they’re perfect for minimalist black and white looks. Coordinate this ice grey sweater, which brings out the quality texture of Supima® cotton, to create a laid-back look. Then top it off with a black jacket to complete the outfit. Even though you’re wearing a jacket and jeans that are supposed to be comfort wear, you still maintain a neat appearance that is suitable for a day at the office.
Click to listen to our curated playlist!WHITE IS PERFECT FOR A CONTEM PORARY WIDE FIT AND DENIM LOOK
The relaxed silhouettes of Uniqlo’s regular-fit jeans go great with the oversized tops that are currently in vogue. This regular-fit model provides a relaxed fit and has a contemporary silhouette that gradually tapers toward the hems. It also offers superb comfort because there’s less contact with the hips and thighs. And if you’re a denim aficionado, you’ll love the realistic washed feel and used look that was produced by finishing specialists.
MERRI To emphasize a cool and clean look, start with white jeans. The rugged woven appearance maintains itself as a defining trait of denim, even with white jeans. Try this arrangement when you’re looking to coordinate this crafted, compelling element in a clean manner. Style a beige blouson and a light chambray shirt to create a traditional feel but avoid vivid tones. It’s a secret to look smart and classy.
FIT
JEANS
These jeans are made of “Miracle Air” materi al, which was developed in partnership with Toray and Kaihara Denim. This denim fabric is significantly lighter than existing denim as hollow yarn is used for the weft. It’s not just the denim that enables their wearers to move ath letically, the 3D design traces the legs’ form and incorporates flat inseams. Simply put, these regular-fit jeans provide a great-looking silhouette that’s free of bunching and catching.
COMBINING OLD
AND LIGHTWEIGHT 3D DESIGN FOR THE ACTIVE ONES
The dark versions of these regular-fit jeans may appear bulky at first glance, but even these are light and comfort able, owing to the Miracle Air fabric. You can stay comfort able with a navy outfit that still brings out a cool feel. When wearing wide-fit bottoms, con sider pairing with a fitting top for a triangular form. When coordinating the same colour, your arrangement can still gain depth with various fabrics.
MIRACLE
3D JEANS
Innovation at the Service of Performance
For some years now, in the fashion world, utility wear has begun its transition from pure technology to design. Technical fabrics and structural innovations of fabrics have begun to become more accessible and the opening up of the fashion world to the codes of sportswear has introduced in the creative processes a huge amount of new materials and textures, as well as a freedom of imagination that was previously unimaginable. The inno vation was not limited to cult brands such as Gramicci or Arc’teryx, but also managed to get down to the level of large brand like Uniqlowhich for years has awarded its LifeWear line the greatest experiments in textile technology, especially collaborating with Toray, a leading Japanese company in the field of chemistry and synthetic fiber production. One of their most important products is AIRism technology - an artificial fabric designed to surpass its predecessors in breathability. The new 2020 AIRism products were presented last Septem ber at The Art and Science of LifeWear event at Somerset House in London.
Technology Works
Uniqlo’s AIRism fabrics are made by Toray using ultra-thin polyester fibers twelve times smaller than a human hair and free of super ficial irregularities. Their structure prevents a build-up of body moisture at the skin level and the formation of microbes and precisely because, in addition to naturally absorbing the smells, their subtlety result in having an elasticity and adaptability much greater than those of natural cotton - which compared to the microfiber of Toray, for example, can retain moisture but not release it in a short time.
The powerful drying capacity of the fibers is precisely what allows a constant adjustment of heat, functioning exactly like a second skin. The size of the fiber, then, are as important as the texture of its surface: the smoother the surface of the cloth, the easier it will be for the body heat and moisture of the wearer to transfer to the dress and then disperse outside. The com position of the garments varies between the men’s and women’s collections: the garments in the men’s collection are aimed at eliminating sweat more quickly, while those of the woman’s collection, composed in a cupra produced by Ashai Kasei, possess a silkier texture that prevents the fabric from sticking to the skin.
The combination of these innovations, on which the two companies have been working for over seven years, has its roots in the Uniqlo phi losophy, which always puts innovation at the service of functionality, taking care to put more emphasis on materials technology than on the eccentricities of design - a type of philosophy that shares precisely with those brands that have made cutting-edge techwear their raison d’etre like Arc’teryx or Stone Island. Here’s how Rei Matsunuma, Global PR Director of Uniqulo, commented on the innovations introduced in this year’s collection:
To learn more about AIRism's effectiveness, scan this code!
Top Uniqlo Collabs
Get Your Hands On These Coveted Uniqlo Collabs
Since 1949, Japanese retailer Uniqlo has grown to become one of the world’s most popular staples providers. While many highstreet names fall into obscurity, unable to stay ahead of the curve, Uniqlo seems to keep up effortlessly, offering wardrobe foundations each season. Aside from the Uniqlo classics is its world of collaborations. By enlisting names like JW Anderson, Christophe Lemaire, Engineered Garments, and more, Uniqlo has positioned itself as a highly accessible gate way to the world of luxury.
The Japanese retailer’s collaborations are so popular that they even reach resale sites for those who didn’t get the chance the first time around. We took a look through the archives and picked out some of our favorite pieces from past Uniqlo collabs including Uniqlo x KAWS x Peanuts, Uniqlo x Daniel Arsham x Pokemon, and Uniqlo x Engineered Garments.
DANIEL ARSHAM X POKEMON X UNIQLO CRYSTAL MEWTWO TEE
Think of a better trio — we’ll wait. On the back of extensive work for Dior, the world of fash ion’s favorite artist, Daniel Arsham imparts his futuristic artifact style on Pokemon’s most mysterious creature.
HAJIME SORAYAMA X UNIQLO NEO MIYAGE TEE
Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama who also, funnily enough, inspired Dior’s Fall 2019 collection, joined forces with Uniqlo for Spring/ Summer 2020 and this simple graphic tee has been on our mind ever since.
KAWS X UNIQLO TEE
After news of this KAWS x Uniqlo collaboration being the last of the duo’s partnerships, the collection caused riots in some Chinese mall, with the Uniqlo site crashing on release day. You might recog nize the pink BFF from Dior’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.
DISNEY X AMBUSH X UNIQLO PLUSH BAG
Uniqlo has an eye for unlikely collaborations which is seen in this Ambush x Disney pairing. The accessory strikes an eyecatching contrast between Dis ney’s cute Minnie Mouse and her moody all-black colorway.
KAWS X SESAME STREET X UNIQLO COOKIE MONSTER PLUSH TOY
Cookie Monster’s eyes get the KAWS makeover for this plush toy which was first released in November 2018. Of all the KAWS collections with Uniqlo, the plush toys from this capsule remain one of the more memorable aspects.
ENGINEERED GARMENTS X UNIQLO FLEECE COMBINATION JACKET
Engineered Garments joined the Uniqlo col laboration roster for Fall/Winter 2019 and this patchwork fleece was a standout component that seemed to be everywhere at the time.
KAWS X UNIQLO X SESAME STREET
Released in November 2019, this hoodie features a graphic of the Sesame Street group to the front which pops from a natural-color backdrop.
JIL SANDER X UNIQLO HYBRID DOWN JACKET
Jil Sander’s Uniqlo collabo ration capsules were reupped for Fall/Winter 2020 and, as expected, caused massive queues and sole out instantly. You can still grab a few of the items at resale though.
UNIQLO X JW ANDERSON SINGLE BREASTED COAT
Uniqlo’s ongoing collection with JW Anderson provides a very accessible entry point into the high-end world of Jonathan Anderson.
Diving into Uniqlo’s UT POP OUT in Harajuku and Tokyo
Uniqlo opened the Harajuku and Tokyo stores in June. The Harajuku Store features UT POP OUT, the largest UT section in Japan, while the Tokyo Store is centered on the concept of “all about LifeWear.” How does Total Creative Director Kashiwa Sato view these new stores?
Q. As the person in charge of creative direction, you must have a special attachment to the Harajuku Store. What are your thoughts on the coming back to Harajuku?
Harajuku is a special place for UT, since it was the location of the first UT store. When President Yanai asked me to handle the T-shirt brand, I told him that I wanted a store. When he asked where, I unhesitatingly answered “Hara juku.” Harajuku has been and remains a mecca for street fashion, and I wanted to use this area as a base to convey T-shirts—the ultimate basic item. So I was simply happy to be returning to the area. I decided that I wanted to utilize the first floor of the new Harajuku Store as UT POP OUT, and fully present the latest UT worldview.
Q. What were your thoughts in creating UT POP OUT?
UT POP OUT emerged from the idea of presenting a space that would accommodate a range of events and new experiments. Essentially, I wanted to create a space that gives rise to all sorts of experiences and activities for customers to enjoy. We are experimenting with various ideas to convey from Harajuku all the possibilities inherent in the UT brand. Along with being par ticular about the way T-shirts are displayed, we are also trying out new ideas centered on the Harajuku Store, such as ensuring that the latest items catch the eye of customers the moment they walk in the door, and offering UT goods that expand the worldviews of the various content themes.
Creative Sato lights,
Q. What are the focal points of UT POP OUT?
The oversized statue of Billie Eilish by con temporary artist Takashi Murakami displayed in the entrance since the store opened has attracted a lot of attention, and we plan to have displays that allow visitors to feel the scale of the space. Another new point is the gigantic monitors, which we can use to convey all sorts of information. I want to continually present high-quality material, such as content theme videos that are a work in their own right.
Creative Director Kashiwa
on Japan Store Highlights, and Future Plans
MESSAGES FROM HARAJUKU SENT THROUGH TSHIRTS
Q. The Tokyo Store features presentations that make full use of its wide spaces. What were your aims with this store?
The Tokyo Store allows customers to experi ence the Uniqlo’s central concept of LifeWear. UT occupies an important position as LifeWear, so we created a special sales space that shows UT in a way different from the Harajuku Store. While Harajuku is like a gallery, the Tokyo Store allows items to be presented in a mu seum-like style. Similar to the LifeWear Corner, or the areas that present AIRism and sustain ability, I think this is a space where customers can sense the various collaborators for UT.
Q. SO IS the UT archive display a special PART OF the Tokyo Store?
By using the ample space to display items from the archive, I wanted customers to sense the vintage feel of classic UT, and remind them how cool they still look today. I felt that it would be interesting to revive some of the designs from the archive, as if returning to the starting point would open up new possibilities. I think it would be fun to try different things with the archive, such as curating it by content theme or category.
Q. The opening of these stores has given you a space to express the UT worldview. What is the future for UT?
I think of UT as a platform, a structure. T-shirts are the most basic form of clothing. UT adds all sorts of content themes to T-shirts, and sells them worldwide at a reasonable price. I think that’s something only Uniqlo can do. No other company has ever focused on T-shirts to this degree, and devoted so much effort. I think the range of possibilities is still expansive, and UT should be a brand that leads T-shirt brands worldwide. Space creation is important to expanding a brand. It’s the same for both physical stores and in the digital realm. Just having the product is not enough. It’s important to offer an experience that neatly conveys the story inherent in each content theme.
THE HARAJUKU STORE IS DESIGNED TO BE A GALLERY, AND THE TOKYO STORE IS DESIGNED LIKE A MUSEUM
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FRONT COVER
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INTERVIEW WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR KASHIWA SATO — PAGE 44-47
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BACK COVER
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