CHAPTER 2
STORY: LEILANI MARIE LABONG
PHOTOS: ERIC WOLFINGER
FOOD STYLING: ERIN QUON
PROP STYLING: MIKHAEL ROMAIN
Harvest
WARDROBE: K ATHERINE YEH of ST YLEKOUNCIL; HAIR & MAKEUP: TAHNI SMITH for aubri balk inc .
Every year, Ovid Winery celebrates a symbolic metamorphosis.
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the kitchen’s soaring ceiling was a grand gesture by architect Howard Backen, but the stone floors and reclaimed-timber walls bring the majesty back down to earth. Glass doors on three sides flood the room with plenty of sunlight. Opposite: A daily harvest of pears from ovid's fruit orchards.
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begins its reign
over the Wine Country as it does in most places around the globe—with crisper mornings and longer evenings—but here, true autumnal magic happens during the grape harvest, when the vines are finally lightened of their fruit and the process of making the year’s vintage begins. At Ovid Winery, located on a hilltop high above Napa Valley, this annual event is especially meaningful: The rocky land does not particularly favor the growing of grapes, and for that reason, the wines have more depth and character. “The plants struggle more up here, so the fruit is more intensely flavored,” explains Dana Johnson, who started Ovid with her husband, Mark Nelson, in 2000, after they sold their software company in New York. Given that Ovid was the ancient Roman poet who wrote Metamorphoses, the transformation of the harsh land into fruitful terra firma is beautifully emblematic. Ovid’s annual harvest celebration is a ritual of gratitude—for the Earth, the plants, the elements, the sun and the alchemists who bring them all together in the name of an ancient ambrosia. “Wine is an amazing gathering force,” says Janet Pagano, managing partner at Ovid. “It’s gracious on many levels.” Johnson and Nelson’s private home naturally embodies the tenets of entertaining. Architect Howard Backen referenced the region’s heritage barns in the design, using reclaimed timber throughout to evoke a warm, cozy mood. Rooms are generously proportioned and ceilings soar, especially in the lofty, double-height kitchen. The main corridor is also expansive and far-reaching, and not just in its physical breadth: Lining the walls are thousands of books on subjects ranging from cooking to architecture to music, an elaborate expression of Nelson’s work as a literature and music classicist and Johnson’s expertise in library science. Colossal glass portals expose the house to the great outdoors—one side commands a southwestern view of Napa Valley, while the other features a large courtyard with a massive hearth and reflecting pool. It’s this inviting space that fronts From the Land (Rizzoli), a hot-off-thepresses monograph of landmark projects from Backen’s Sausalito firm. This year, it’s also the site of a heartfelt feast for the winery’s close-knit staff. Atop a humble picnic table, Pagano, an amateur chef, has composed an elegant
giant sliding glass doors connect the house to a magnificent panorama of napa valley on one side and A sprawling courtyard on the other. a roaring fire in the courtyard’s monumental stone hearth signals chow time for the ovid crew, who take their seats around a rustic picnic table set with luxurious match pewter dinnerware.
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family meal celebrating the bounty of the land: a salad of torn lettuces tossed with cherries soaked in Ovid’s 2010 Napa Valley Red and a simple dressing of shallots, lemon juice and olive oil pressed from olives on-site; bead-size acini di pepe pasta mixed with a verdant pesto of parsley from the garden and walnuts; lamb chops marinated in soy sauce, garlic and juice from local lemons; polenta cake topped with a compote of plums from the orchard. Although the lamb is a Johnson family recipe, Nelson takes ownership of it, having earned the right when a time crunch once forced him to compose the dish in the trunk of his car on his way to a dinner party. A lost passerby approached him for directions, but the seemingly gruesome sight of Nelson’s soy sauce—soiled hands reaching into plastic bags filled with raw meat caused the innocent onlooker to hightail it in the opposite direction. Standing around a flame-licked grill, Nelson recounts the hilarity for Andy Erickson, Ovid’s consulting winemaker, and resident enologist, Ro Pineda, and laughter ensues.
the next generation of ovidians take their refreshments with a side of napa valley vistas. from top left: winemaker andy erickson and enologist ro pineda supervise the grill; even setting the table is a family affair; proprietor dana johnson enjoys a quiet moment.
Wine is an amazing
On the veranda, the sun is measuredly setting and the 2009 Hexameter, fragrant with violets and boysenberry, is being poured. A bountiful tray of juicy pomegranates, fresh orchard jams and hunks of artisanal cheese staves off hunger until dinnertime. As guests wander into the kitchen, Pagano enlists their help preparing the meal— duties include chopping herbs, whisking salad dressing and setting the table with the winery’s heirloom Match Pewter dinnerware. “I’ve found that people enjoy lending a hand to create a memorable meal,” says Pagano. “And it’s nice to have the help.” Head winemaker Austin Peterson builds a fire in the outdoor fireplace, signaling the party to move to the table. As everyone settles in, Nelson and Johnson circle the group, carrying serving dishes piled high with the kitchen’s offerings and inviting everyone to dish out their own fare. Before the meal begins, Nelson offers the first of the evening’s thankful toasts. Glasses filled with the fruits of their labor go clink, clink, clink, the flames snap and crackle in the background and—as if on cue—a pale moon rises in the twilit sky. ARCHITECT: backen, Gillam & kroeger ARCHITECTS, Sausalito top: ovid’s marketing director, elizabeth robertis, and her son, mateo, wait patiently to dig in while proprietor mark nelson dishes out the lamb chops. right: the main entrance to the house is centered on a long reflecting pool in the courtyard.
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Pastina with walnut pesto 1 lb ancini di pepe pasta 1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, washed; leaves separated from stems 1 cup olive oil Juice of 1 lemon B/d cup grated Parmesan cheese 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 3 Tbsp salt to the water and then add the pasta. Cook according to package directions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, and set aside before draining the pasta in a colander. 2. In a food processor, combine nuts and parsley. With the food processor running, add olive oil until the mixture is coarsely blended. Add B/c cup of the reserved pasta water, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Add the Parmesan and pulse a few times. The sauce can be blended until smooth, or for more texture and contrast, briefly pulse the mixture instead. 3. Place the pasta in a heated serving bowl, and gently stir in the remaining B/c cup water. 4. Fold in the pesto sauce and serve.
Lettuces with dried cherries, pecans and fresh herbs 1 cup dried, pitted sweet cherries 1 cup red wine B/c cup olive oil B/e cup finely minced shallots 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 Tbsp unsalted butter 1 B/c cup pecan halves 2 heads red butter lettuce leaves, separated, washed and chilled 2 heads red Belgian endive, thickly sliced width-wise 1 head radicchio, torn into large pieces B/d cup chervil leaves 2 Tbsp finely chopped chives 1. In a small mixing bowl, combine dried cherries and red wine; soak for 30 minutes or longer. 2. In a separate small bowl, make the dressing by whisking together the olive oil, shallots, balsamic vinegar and lemon juice. 3. In a small sautĂŠ pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add pecan halves, season with salt and pepper, and stir until the pecans are lightly toasted. Remove from the heat and spread the pecans on paper towels to cool. 4. Tear lettuce into large pieces and combine with the sliced endive and radicchio in a serving bowl. Toss with the dressing. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add drained cherries, pecans and fresh herbs, and toss gently. Serve immediately. 96
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BarbecueD Lamb Chops 2 cups soy sauce D/e cup lemon juice 2 tsp granulated garlic 2 tsp ground black pepper 12 double-cut rib lamb chops 1. In a shallow dish, mix the soy sauce, lemon juice, garlic and pepper. Add the lamb chops and marinate, covered, for 3–4 hours, turning the chops midway through. 2. One hour before cooking, remove the chops from the marinade, letting them come to room temperature. 3. Grill the chops on a very hot barbecue for 4–6 minutes on each side for medium rare. Let chops rest for 5 minutes before serving. 97
STORY: MARY JO BOWLING
PHOTOS: Dominique Vorillon
SUNDAY HENDRIKSON
Giandam ut voluptat exerent lam ventiaspedit vel ilibus quaion nobitas disquam utatemo luptame endiam sim iur? Facepudam sin repra ea non pariaeperi optatio berferro con ni consendigni denisti ut a quam ullaudam quam rempos quo idusam, sed ut et esciust arion et.
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the moon's beautiful ascent is a poetic finishing touch to this year's harvest feast. Opposite: a scrumptious plate of food only appears ambitious— the recipes are actually quite simple.
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