Adventure GORILLA TRACKING
Up close and personal
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BUNGEE JUMPING Jump for joy!
SCUBA DIVING
Into the deep
RUNNING WILD Hit the trail!
Overland adventure
The sounds of silence
Dune driving
Tackle Namiba’s massive dunes! INTO AFRICA The General Tyre African Adventure 2013 CARAVAN EXPEDITION Doing it the Jurgens way OBSTACLE RACES The new fitness craze EXTREME ADVENTURES For the bold and brave BUNGEE JUMPING Southern Africa’s best jumps TRAIL RUNNING Three hardcore dirt events CALL OF THE WILD Great wildlife adventures SOUNDS OF SILENCE Head into the desert 99
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Adventure
guide Contents
104 INTO AFRICA
130 BUNGEE JUMPING
118 CARAVAN EXPEDITION
134 TRAIL RUNNING
122 OBSTACLE RACES
138 CALL OF THE WILD
127 EXTREME ADVENTURES
142 SOUNDS OF SILENCE
The General Tyre African Adventure 2013 Doing it the Jurgens way
The new fitness craze
For the bold and brave
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Southern Africa’s best jumps Three hardcore dirt events Great wildlife adventures Head into the desert
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OVERLAND ADVENTURE GENERAL TYRE AFRICAN ADVENTURE
Africa uncovered!
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Heading deep into Africa on a 4x4 expedition is at the top of the “bucket list” for many adventurers. For others, the supposedly “dark secrets” of the continent make them wary of heading up north. However, as shown during the 2013 General Tyre African Adventure, southern Africa is an adventure paradise. It has its challenges, but that made it the ideal proving ground for the toughest tyre in the General range – the new Grabber MT Text and photography: Colin Mileman
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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own, particularly if you adopt an arrogant approach and charge in with disrespect for local customs. However, after two General Tyre 4x4 African Adventures, starting off with the five country stint in 2012 and the latest 2013 edition that visited six countries over 18 days, we can confidently affirm that Africa is just waiting to be uncovered. That said, it’s essential to plan. You will certainly want to avoid social disruptions ranging from local feuds to full-scale civil war, while more mundane issues such as the availability of fuel, drinkable water and safe accommodation are major factors. Clearly, few have the time or money to recce a route in advance, but the value of joining forces with experienced travellers and expedition organisers cannot be underestimated. It can make the difference between clearing a border crossing in a matter of hours, or losing a couple of days. Simply from a driving perspective, there’s a veritable feast of terrains and conditions to experience – from the sticky
mud of Botswana’s beautiful Makgadikgadi pans we experienced last year to pushing your way through thick Zambian bush and tough mountain trails that proved the highlight of this year’s adventure. There is truly something for everyone. One thing is certain, though – being tough is a prerequisite in Africa. We’re not necessarily talking about the people, as we had families and young kids on the trip. But you need tough vehicles to conquer the challenging terrain and, even more critically, tough and durable tyres that can take the punishment in their stride.
ON THE ROAD AGAIN
The inaugural 2012 General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure effectively relaunched the General brand in SA, and highlighted the remarkable performance of the Grabber AT all-terrain tyre. Based on the success of the AT, Continental Tyre SA, which imports and sells the General Tyre brand, elected to bolster the range with the addition of the Grabber MT – a dedicated mud-terrain tyre.
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The hunter’s trail that leads to the cut-line between Botswana and Zimbabwe offers superb off-road driving. Top, right: Tyre pressures are critical. Right: You can never do without a good map, even in the GPS era.
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The African continent is often idealised as the last frontier, with wide expanses of largely unexplored regions just waiting to be discovered. It has a rich heritage, with many diverse cultures and their captivating tales. And it boasts amazing unspoilt sights and scenery. Fortunately, it hasn’t been dramatically afflicted by over-regulation from legislators and “green” organisations that view offroading as socially and environmentally unacceptable. Granted, we all recognise the need for responsible behaviour when heading off the beaten track in order to ensure the sustainability of our natural resources, but it’s all too easy to push the limits too far, thus destroying important tourism and economic opportunities. Let’s be honest – travelling in Africa is no walk in the park, and you’re certain to encounter many challenges, both planned for and totally unexpected. “African time” has the potential to take on a life of its
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Adventure
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Hence, for the launch of this hard-core new-generation rubber, the organisers of the 2013 General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure, comprising the marketing team from Conti along with off-road experts Adventure Junkies Eastern Cape, set out to select a route that would raise the bar in terms of challenging 4x4 driving. They came up with an 18-day adventure through six African countries – with some exclusive 4x4 trails thrown into the mix. The convoy comprised 10 vehicles, including four Toyotas (with a Hilux 4.0 V6 and Fortuner 3.0 D-4D sponsored by Toyota SA), and four new Rangers (Ford SA supplied two 3.2s and a 2.2 double cab, and there was a privately entered 3.2 SuperCab). General Motors also came to the party with two brand-new sixth-generation Isuzu KBs (300 D-TEQ Double Cab and Extended Cab) just days after the national launch. Four vehicles were equipped with the Grabber MT, which is available initially in 15 and 16-inch sizes, while the vehicles with 17-inch rims were fitted with the proven Grabber AT. Considering its heavily biased off-road design, no one was really sure how the MT
OVERLAND ADVENTURE GENERAL TYRE AFRICAN ADVENTURE
would manage. Although heavy-duty offroad tyres are not known for the smoothest or quietest of rides, it became clear from the outset that this cutting-edge new MT was an impressive performer. It was developed in the US specifically for the rigours of an off-road racing series, so traction in the dirt and durability would clearly be among its strengths. But what surprised everyone was the exceptionally low level of noise, along with the outstanding road holding and braking – aspects that would become more evident as the trip progressed.
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Top: Crossing the Zambezi River on the Kazungula Ferry from Botswana into Zambia. Left: Visiting the Victoria Falls is always a treat. Below: The Lake Kariba wall is truly an amazing feat of engineering.
INTO BOTSWANA
The African Adventure crossed into Botswana on day three at the Martin’s Drift border post. The main A1 highway required a fair bit of diligence and alertness, with its patchwork tarmac and ever-present potholes. The group travelled through Francistown and Nata, to Elephant Sands for the first overnight stop in Botswana, having completed 500km in the day. The popular tourist stop is renowned for its elephant population, and a large herd had recently stormed through the camp and caused havoc. However, they were nowhere to be seen during our visit – but the extreme heat was certainly noticed. On day four the off-road side of the adventure began. The convoy left Elephant Sands and headed off the beaten track, following a trail that is generally used only during the hunting season. After two hours of driving through dense bush, the track eventually led to the cut line that forms the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe, but with no fence in sight. This no-man’s land is graded periodically, and is the only indication of any formal division between this section of Botswana and the adjacent national park in neighbouring Zimbabwe. We continued along the border line, which varied from wide open grasslands interspersed with marshes, to thick foliage and tall elephant grass that seemingly hadn’t been cut back in several years. The final push through to the end of the trail at the Matetsi border post took the day’s tally to only 165km, yet this involved more than six hours of driving because of the undulating terrain. A further 90km on the A33 tar road towards Kazangula and Kasane took the
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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adventure team to the overnight stop at the welcoming Senyati Safari Camp, with its popular elephant watering hole, superb private camping facilities and sounds of wildlife (including elephant and hyena) piercing the night air.
A FERRY TO ZAMBIA
The border crossing from Botswana also provided a bit of a scare as it emerged that two of the passports had not been stamped at Martin’s Drift – a reminder of how important it is to verify that everything has been done before you leave any border post. The group made it across the Zambezi together without further drama, only to be greeted by a painfully slow vehicle import documentation process in searing 37-degree heat. The formalities were completed only by late afternoon, so we had to rush through Livingstone and on to our campsite bordering the Victoria Falls. Next day, a visit to the Mosi-oa-Tunya (Smoke that Thunders) revealed the breathtaking power of this natural wonder. It’s hard to imagine a more majestic and awe-inspiring way to start the day. The world’s largest sheet of falling water is a staggeringly impressive sight. The numbers don’t come close to doing it justice, but the
chasm is 1,7km wide, 108m high and has one of the highest flow rates among the world’s mightiest waterfalls. We set off again travelling back through Livingstone, which is impressively clean and neat. It was an interesting point of discussion that the country has retained and embraced its colonial history which has contributed towards making it a popular tourist destination – and a crucial contributor to the local economy. It provides an interesting contrast to SA, where the trend is to relegate the country’s history to dark, hidden archives. The route took the group up the T1 main road through Koloma to Choma, where we were joined by Cliff Siachibweka, the local councillor for Maamba ward. Then it was onto a rutted and extremely bumpy gravel road heading towards the mountains. We stopped at a small village and donated a selection of school materials, clothing and food to the community leader. Soon afterwards we arrived at the
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The laid-back breakfast at the stunning Chobe Safari Lodge the next morning was followed by the handing over of a donation of clothing and sports goods to a local community project in Kasane, headed by a senior police official in the town. Around lunchtime, the group crossed over the Zambezi River by ferry at the Kazangula border into Zambia. A fair bit of negotiating was required to get the 10-vehicle convoy across, made all the more difficult because one of the ferries was sidelined with mechanical trouble.
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There’s always plenty to keep the young ones entertained on an 18-day African Adventure. The kids had a fantastic time learning about the countries north of our border.
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GENERAL TYRE AFRICAN ADVENTURE
a good test for the sponsored Toyotas, Fords and Isuzus and, more so, for the General Grabbers. Everyone was thoroughly impressed by the performance of the tyres. They provided sure-footed grip and composure even in the face of treacherous angles and unforgiving surfaces. In particular, it was astonishing that not a single puncture or sidewall penetration was experienced, despite the tyres being absolutely tortured at times. The new hard-core Grabber MTs shone as expected in the conditions, and the Grabber ATs continued to defy their all-terrain designation. They were nothing short of exceptional, even under extreme punishment.
ALL FOR A GOOD CAUSE
The main community beneficiary for the 2013 African Adventure was Lubwe School in the Maamba coal mine area. Located at the top of a mountain, the school comprises one small and dark mud classroom that accommodates no less than 215 children,
between seven and 15 years old, from the surrounding hills. Indicative of the challenges they face, the school principal, Venter Mweene, has to walk for three hours to school every day, and three hours back again in the evening – on the same taxing 4x4 trail we drove. It didn’t take long for the group to kick up a friendly and spirited soccer game between the school kids and the more energetic members of the African Adventure in punishing 38-degree heat – with little concern for actual goals scored. The formalities were completed with the hand-over of a large donation of desperately needed stationery, Stop Hunger Now food parcels, General Tyre shirts and caps, and greatly appreciated new soccer balls. Reluctantly, we said farewell to the enthusiastic locals, and completed the remaining and even more taxing section of the 4x4 trail as the sun descended over the distant valley – with the spectacular Lake Kariba coming into view for the first time.
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entrance to the impressive yet hauntingly quiet western side of the Maamba coal mine, which is not currently in operation. The area is defined by the impressive cableway that spans the entire length of the mountainous mine area, with the coco pans hanging in eerie silence over what was once a thriving operation. Through Cliff, and the negotiating efforts of the Adventure Junkies and Continental Tyre SA team during the recce in January, the group had been granted exclusive access to this area. It turned out to be a fantastic and challenging 4x4 trail along the dilapidated maintenance route for the cableway. Although it was only 18km long, the arduous drive, which included the General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure’s community project at the local school, took more than four hours to complete. The trail included a mix of rocky and very steep ascents and descents, slippery slopes, tall elephant grass… and much more. It was a thrilling drive for the adventure participants,
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Top: The Chobe River at Kasane is a wildlife haven best experienced from the water. Above: United through simple games. All you need is an elastic band or a soccer ball. Below: The main community project for the 2013 African Adventure was at the remote Lubwe School at the Maamba Coal Mine.
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Lakeview Lodge was our home for two nights. It was pure paradise, with a relaxed atmosphere and the most amazing sunsets and sunrises. The stay included a day trip to the nearby Chikanka Island, a beautiful and romantic breakaway spot, with a luxuriously appointed central lodge and six comfortable chalets. Day nine signalled the crew’s visit to last year’s community project. The 10 vehicles had to negotiate an exceptionally bumpy and rutted gravel route followed by what would once have been a pristine and thoroughly engaging ribbon of tarmac that is now characterised by treacherous potholes, mostly found smack-bang in the middle of the mountain pass corners. Combine that with kamikaze-style truck drivers and you have a recipe for disaster. But we made it through unscathed, and rolled into The Moorings farm near Monze, with its Malambu Middle Basic School, by mid-morning. It was very encouraging to find that the school was close to completing a new block with three brand new classrooms. This was made possible after combining the R34 200 donated by the African Adventure during the first visit in March 2012 with other funds generated by the school’s charity organisation. Headmaster Polycarp Mweeta said the new facilities would include a computer
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centre, a science laboratory and a library – thus addressing the main educational deficiencies experienced by the school, its farm community and 235 pupils. After lengthy negotiations, the government had also finally agreed to install electricity at the school. All of this will give the children a much better education and a far brighter future – for which they all expressed their sincere gratitude. It was good to see a dash of colour and vibrancy in the school’s existing classrooms, confirming that the stationery supplied last year was being put to good use. The ever-enthusiastic Mweeta also confirmed that the school had formalised its HIV/Aids programme in the education curriculum, and this had contributed to a small but meaningful drop in infections over the past year. In order to ensure the ongoing
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marginally, to be replaced by a challenging, steep and rocky 4x4 trail. We climbed over 700m in elevation during the ensuing 28km and two-and-ahalf hours, emerging on top of one of the region’s many beautiful mountain ranges.
THE ROAD TO MALAWI
Above: Travelling through Africa certainly comes with many challenges – with dodgy drivers and variable road conditions topping the list. Left: Equally, though, there’s lots of fun to be had. The mud on the Botswana-Zimbabwe cut line was one of the many highlights of the trip. sustainability of the project, the 2013 General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure team handed over a new batch of writing materials, food supplies in the form of Stop Hunger Now boxes, General Tyre caps and shirts, and the enthusiastically received soccer balls. Sponsored computers are also on the cards once the classrooms are completed and the electricity is installed.
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INTO THE BUSH
After energetic dancing and singing by the pupils, the African Adventure team waved goodbye and set off for the Lake Kariba wall, travelling through Mazabuka towards Chirundu. Yet again the lush mountain ranges and snaking road had the makings of a driver’s delight, but the roads are being decimated by the never-ending trucks ferrying copper and coal out of the country. Apart from being alert for potholes, you have to watch out for stranded trucks and trailers, often undergoing makeshift repairs in the middle of the road. By 3pm we arrived at the Lake Kariba wall – an amazing feat of engineering that is the focal point of this impressive 250kmlong dam. We settled in at the Eagles Rest campsite in Siavonga for the night. It is located on an outcrop in Lake Kariba, boasts its own
sandy beach, an island-style bar and play area, and is apparently the watersports destination in Zambia (abundant crocodile and hippo warnings included). The General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure left Lake Kariba on day 10, following the snaking tarmac that took us back to the main road towards Chirundu. Despite it being a national road, it is generally in very poor condition as a result of being pummelled by the steady stream of heavy trucks shipping goods and raw materials to and from central Africa. Far too often, huge potholes tax the tyres – and the drivers. After an hour’s drive, we turned off at a small but bustling town onto gravel and crossed the fast-flowing Chiawa River on a pontoon. The route tracked the border of a vast banana and mango plantation, and then deviated off the main gravel road to follow a narrow bush trail. Despite being identified on the GPS as the D152, it is currently nothing more than a single-track footpath. The team had done a recce of the trail in January in heavy rain, and it was evident that no vehicles had travelled through there since then. After pushing through the tunnelling bush for nearly two hours, and crossing a watery swamp and towering reeds alongside a small village, the group was relieved that the dense foliage opened up
Eventually returning to tarmac in Chongwe, we departed on the long 520km haul to the overnight stop in Chipata. The road is an almost constant mix of fast turns and flowing sweeps through stunning and largely untouched, lush countryside. Other than a handful of villages, there’s little evidence of civilisation or development. It was amazing to see endless, unspoilt rolling hills and rich green valleys stretching off as far as you could see – and particularly in an area that is so naturally fertile. The weary crew eventually arrived and set up camp at Mama Rula’s campsite at 23h00, and eagerly tucked into the tasty pizza and lasagne served up by the restaurant’s patient kitchen staff that had waited several hours for us to arrive. The next day it was off to the Mwami border post where the formalities were completed without much hassle. The Mchinji post on the Malawian side was also negotiated with little fuss, although it did take the local insurance agent ages to process the obligatory road insurance. It’s always fascinating how a man-made boundary can create such a different look and feel to each country. Where Zambia boasted largely unspoilt landscapes with only a handful of villages and the odd town, the moment we crossed into Malawi there were non-stop houses, shops and high-walled compounds, interspersed with cultivated lands for corn and tobacco. Even though the road was in much better condition, there was little respite from the constant stream of pedestrians and bicycles vying for the same piece of tarmac as the cars, trucks and buses. A worn-out sign at the border stipulated that the maximum speed limit for Malawi was 80 km/h, and just 50 km/h in built-up areas. This made for slow going on the road to Lilongwe. It was the Easter weekend, so the shopping expedition for supplies proved largely futile and refuelling rather frustrating as the filling stations did not take fuel cards. So everyone had to stand in long queues to draw cash.
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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the paved surface, it is terribly bumpy with huge washaways that could swallow a car. Nevertheless, the route provided a great view of the rural villages, and the neverending mealie fields and even rice paddies. Back on the main road, we encountered a lively rally for the UDF political party, but got through without hassle. The convoy eventually turned off onto the T378 towards Cape Maclear, and
the gravel road changed midway into an entertaining and winding tarmac surface through the mountains, before opening up to reveal Lake Malawi in the distance. We settled in at Fat Monkey’s Lodge at the water’s edge just after lunchtime, which afforded plenty of time for swimming and snorkelling in the calm waters. Dinner was served just as Mother Nature dished up another incredible sunset for our final night at Lake Malawi.
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We eventually left Lilongwe at 17h00, and aimed for Lake Malawi, Africa’s third largest lake. If the daytime driving wasn’t challenging enough, then the narrow roads to Senga Bay certainly made up for it. Despite little evidence of electricity, the string of villages seemed to come alive at night, with bustling markets, packed cafés and thriving bars. We were constantly dodging taxi bicycles (typical African bikes with padded seats on the back for carrying customers), hordes of people walking in and across the road, and erratic cars and trucks with varying levels of functioning lights. It was with a sense of relief that we arrived at the Steps Campsite in Senga Bay, adjacent to Livingstonia Hotel. As the tents were erected and supper prepared, we were greeted by a spectacular moonrise over the vast lake. Day 12 provided a welcome opportunity for some rest and relaxation – splashing around in the hotel’s fantastic pool, soaking up the sun on the beach and playing in the waves. The highlight, however, was a boat ride to the nearby Bird Island. There, everyone got to do some great snorkelling in the calm waters of a small rocky bay. On the return trip, our guides, Harrison and MacPherson, took us around the back of the island where the fish eagles nest. MacPherson did a piercing fish eagle cry, and then tossed a fish into the lake from the boat. In an instant one of the majestic birds shot off its perch, flew gracefully down to the water and snatched the fish with pinperfect precision – with another fish eagle circling above in anticipation. On day 13 we packed up and headed out of Senga Bay, stopping briefly at the local village to see the fishing industry in action. The fishermen were repairing their nets on the beach, with their boats lined up on the shore. In the centre of village were vast rows of drying racks for the kapenta fish, which forms the major source of food and income for much of this region. The convoy then followed the main road towards Chipoka and Monkey Bay, and then deviated onto a gravel road shortcut that significantly cut the travel distance to the next stop. Although this route was once tarred, and there are still small patches of
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LAKE MALAWI
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Senga Bay on Lake Malawi is simply stunning. A short boat ride to Bird Island and you’re treated to snorkelling and the sight of spectacular fish eagles in action. The African Adventure team members enjoyed some well-deserved downtime at Senga Bay, lounging in the wonderful sunshine.
As we were about to leave next morning, we witnessed the amazing scene of a brownbanded snake eagle performing remarkable feats of acrobatics in order to raid the nests of weaver birds high up in the branches above the lodge.
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A ROOM WITH A VIEW
On the road again, we stopped at the local version of Toys ‘R’ Us, which boasted a dazzling array of intricately and accurately hand-carved wooden Land Rover Defenders, Toyota Land Cruisers, diggers and graders – many of which made the trip with us back to SA. Then we hit the road to Mangochi, where the vehicles were filled up, but again only after we had stood in long queues to draw cash. There the crews also had a chat to the bicycle taxi riders, gaining some interesting insight into their business. Apparently it costs
the equivalent of around R1000 to purchase a new bike, and the riders earn between 50 and 150 kwacha (roughly R1,25 to R3,75) per lift, depending on the distance. From Mangochi we continued south on the M3 through Liwonde, and then began our climb into the beautiful Zomba mountains. In the early afternoon we arrived in the bustling town of Zomba. The convoy didn’t hang around, instead turning right towards the Zomba Forest Lodge, and following an amazing winding tar road that climbed over 700m to an altitude of more than 1500m in just 11km, There was a breathtaking view of the Zomba plateau, stretching off far into the distance. It was a great surprise for everyone when the majestic Sunbird Ku Chawe hotel came into view, and was selected as the overnight stop. No setting up tents, no rolling out mattresses and sleeping bags or cooking by
the fire – it was a welcome splash of luxury after 13 straight nights of camping. The hotel is perched near the summit of the mountain, with an impressive view of the plateau and magnificent terraced gardens. It also boasts fascinating architecture, with arches dominating the design both inside and out, creating a castlelike ambience – clearly paying homage to the strong colonial heritage that defines this former British colony. A group photograph was scheduled for the next morning at the 1800m high peak of the mountain range, with the view of the vast Zomba plateau 1000m below somewhat obscured by persistent clouds, but still memorable. “On a clear day” you can see the mighty Mulanje mountains on the Mozambique border. Continuing our journey, we headed towards Blantyre on a bumpy tar road that soon made way for treacherous road works. Malawi’s largest southern city, thankfully, signalled the end of the road construction. The main road continued through Lirangwe and Zalewa to the Mwanza border post, which was despatched in less than half-an-hour. We thought we had missed the Mozambique border as it is rather strangely located several kilometres away, near the summit of the mountain range.
MISSION THROUGH MOZ
The convoy crossed over into the fifth country for the 2013 African Adventure just after 16h00, but all too soon the excitement made
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An off-road feeling in a new dimension.
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supported by Arsenal Football Club, which no one knew what to expect of the road way for total frustration as the main road conditions and travel times – especially towards Tete is in a shocking state of disrepair. sends volunteers each year to help with its development. after Mozambique’s awful roads. The The gaping potholes didn’t stop until we original route scouted during the recce had arrived in Tete, more than 120km later. been south through Mozambique, but the The going was painfully slow as the ZIPPING THROUGH ZIM poor driving conditions meant we had to convoy had to weave constantly between After this brief interlude, we travelled revise the plans and incorporate more of the never-ending stream of hazards – all through the nearby Manica border post Zimbabwe, so this was uncharted territory. the while watching out for similar antics by and departed Mozambique without hassle. But we were very pleasantly surprised. oncoming cars, trucks and the ever-present The adjacent Forbes border post into There were decent roads that allowed the motorcycles. Indeed, Malawi’s bicycles Zimbabwe was certainly one of the biggest were now replaced by Mozambique’s cheap surprises of the trip. Border crossings are Chinese motorbikes, which are ridden mostly often dirty, noisy, hot and less than pleasant without helmets, often without lights and in experiences, but this post was neat, paved, similarly unpredictable fashion. clean, air-conditioned and sophisticated, with Despite the road boasting a 100 km/h computers and even TV screens in abundance maximum speed limit, its poor state – and there were immaculate toilets. restricted us to an average speed of Passports were stamped and we looked well under 50 km/h. As a result we lost set, only to have problems getting the a significant amount of time and had to vehicles through – as happened last year abandon our push for the Zimbabwe border. when we visited Zimbabwe. We settled on the only campsite found Eventually we left the border at 14h30, in the area – a very rudimentary, run-down just as the clouds opened up and we had our set-up located on the bank of the Zambezi first rains of the 2013 adventure. River, with Tete’s impressive new bridge Very few of the group had spent just off to the right. Camp was hastily set up much time, if any, in Zimbabwe, and and supper prepared with the heat simply not fading away, and staying around the 30-degree mark for much of the night. Day 16 of the African Adventure started from Tete at 06h00. We crossed the large arched bridge and took the EN103 to Changara. The ongoing potholes were soon interspersed with plenty of goats and cows, requiring drivers to once again remain alert and vigilant. We then joined the N6 towards Machipanda and on to Manica, where the vehicles were refuelled. In the small town we spotted a sign of a sports and recreation facility sponsored by the University of Johannesburg, and it didn’t take long for someone to come out and chat to the South African crews. Schalk van Heerden, a representative from the university, had just driven up from Johannesburg for the launch of an impressive new soccer facility, built as part of Fifa’s 2010 Soccer World Cup legacy programme for southern Africa. The aim is to use soccer to develop the community. Above: Cape McLear is one of Lake Malawi’s many picture-perfect adventure destinations. This Football for Hope project Above, right: An interesting take on the “Toys R Us” theme, with stunning hand-made scale models. at Manica Football Club (www. Above, left: There is no shortage of craft markets in Malawi. fcmanica.com) is also apparently
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order to cover the required distance safely and deal with the wayward traffic encountered along the way. Despite the hectic driving conditions, the General Grabbers excelled, with the MTs continuing to impressive with their exceptional on-road performance.
HOME AGAIN, HOME AGAIN
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speed limit to be maintained with ease and virtually no potholes. The group also encountered expansive baobab forests featuring an astonishing number of the ancient giants and, unusually, many fairly young ones. We had identified a couple of potential overnight venues, but they were either
The massive Beit Bridge border post was still a hive of activity well after midnight, particularly with hordes of people crossing on foot, or packed like sardines into buses. Fortunately we completed Above: The Adventure the paperwork by 02h00, and Junkies team members breathed a sigh of relief as we are masters at finally touched South African soil producing amazing once again. food in the middle of The Forever Resort in Tshipise nowhere. came into view just before 03h00, and there was no time wasted Left: Lakeview Lodge unpacking the tents and getting on Kariba is well off some sleep. Following a muchthe beaten track, but needed lie-in, the convoy left for worth a visit. Gauteng at 11h00, and finally arrived at the 4 Wheel Drive Club of Southern Africa’s Base 4 campsite near abandoned, closed, in atrocious condition or fully booked, despite their state of squalor. It’s Hennops River at dusk – and to the chill of a almost as though Zimbabwe doesn’t want any typical Highveld autumn night. Tents were hastily erected, and soon visitors. So, with an overwhelming sense of everyone was huddled around the huge disappointment, we decided to head straight campfire as the final supper comprising huge for the border some 290km away. steaks, potato bake and pasta salad was We left Masvingo at 20h30 and rolled into prepared by the Adventure Junkies crew. The Beit Bridge four hours later, after dropping temperature continued to drop and, for the the convoy’s speed to around 80 km/h in
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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the 2013 group could secure their places right away. It was hard to believe that the 2013 General Tyre 4x4 African Adventure was almost over when we woke up at 05h00 for the final haul back to Port Elizabeth. Along with the bone-chilling four-degree temperature – a shocking contrast to the 30-degree average we’d experienced for much of the trip – it was both with a sense of relief and sadness that we set off for home.
THE END OF THE ADVENTURE
The remaining distance was covered without hassle, and we reached the Conti SA headquarters just after 18h00 on day 18 with the sun setting spectacularly just behind the tyre factory – almost symbolically signalling the end of this truly epic adventure. Everyone was delighted to be home, feeling a great sense of accomplishment and satisfaction in having explored some of southern Africa’s most spectacular regions – with Lake Kariba and Lake Malawi
certainly standing out. It was great to be able to support the two schools in Zambia with donations of essential supplies, thus creating the prospects for a better education and life for these poor communities. The hardcore off-road routes incorporated into the 2013 event were a major highlight. The fact that the awesome new General Grabber MT, and even the Grabber AT, conquered the varied and often extreme terrain in their stride proved that General has two exceptionally competent tyres at the very top of the all-terrain and mud-terrain game. The total distance covered rounded off at 7314km. It was a true testament to the General Grabbers that over a cumulative distance of well over 71 000km, all of the 40 tyres used on the expedition emerged unscathed, and without even a hint of a puncture, sidewall penetration or any significant damage. The terrain was as varied and unpredictable as they come, encompassing extreme rocky 4x4 trails to soft sand, sticky mud, patchy tar tackled at high speed, and Zambia and Mozambique’s notorious potholes. Yet the MTs and ATs provided surefooted performance and safe handling, and revealed very little sign of wear. Indeed, the African Adventure proved that “the General is back” – in a big way!
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A beautiful view of Zomba Plateau.
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first time on the 18-day trip, everyone was forced to go digging to the bottom of their bags for long pants and jerseys. The Base 4 camp and surrounding 4x4 facility, sponsored by Tiger Wheel & Tyre, is truly impressive, with plenty of space to accommodate large gatherings with dedicated camping sites, neat ablutions and a superb central clubhouse. It also boasts an array of 4x4 obstacles that provide fun for offroad weekends, as well as 4x4 training. As this was the final gathering for the trip, the night at Base 4 was the perfect opportunity for everyone to give their impressions of the 2013 African Adventure – and it was clear that a truly awesome time was had by all. “Fantastic” was the key word from Oom Kallie Otto for the organisation, the route, the schools supported, the food, the General Grabber MTs, his new Ranger after many years of driving Mitsubishis … indeed, for every aspect of the expedition. It was a sentiment shared by all of the participants. The only remaining comments and questions were about when the next trip would be, where we’d be going, and if
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BUNGEE JUMPING MOTORING ADVENTURE The Campworld group’s first taste of Botswana’s amazing Makgadikgadi pans
XPLORER VERSUS AFRICA
Xploring southern Africa –
and getting stuck in it Towing a caravan to your favourite resort, 200km from your home, should be a reasonably straightforward venture. But it’s an altogether different challenge to tow a caravan for 4000km over all kinds of terrain, including some tough 4x4-only stretches, through southern Africa. This is exactly what a group of brave Campworld franchise owners attempted recently – with 1,7-ton Jurgens Safari Xplorers in tow Text: Danie Botha Photographs: Debbie Pretorius and Danie Botha
The background
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Ten days? That’s nothing in the bigger scheme of things. But a 10-day trip seems like a mountain to climb when there are deadlines looming for all kinds of projects. I just couldn’t spend 10 days travelling through southern Africa with a group of Campworld franchise owners, towing a fleet of Jurgens Safari Xplorers. But then a plan was hatched. What if I joined the group for just two nights in Botswana, taking in the Khama Rhino Sanctuary, the Makgadikgadi Pans and the lesser known Kukonje Island? A few phone calls later, a Suzuki Jimny
The brave little Suzuki Jimny crosses the Limpopo River between South Africa and Botswana.
1.3 was on its way to the Leisure Wheels office. I would meet up with the group at the Khama Sanctuary in Botswana, and then drive with them to the pans, and to Kukonje. From there I’d head back to SA, while they continued to Livingstone in Zambia and the Victoria Falls, and then finally drove home through Botswana. And so, with a borrowed Malamoo threesecond tent, a cooler box and a camping chair packed into the Suzuki, I left Randburg on a chilly June morning for a rendezvous in Botswana.
The trip to Khama
I had driven about 10 000km in a Toyota Land Cruiser Pick-up 4500EFI in the weeks leading up to this journey. The Cruiser bakkie is really awesome, and just the ticket for the purpose I had used it for. But comfort is not high on its selling points list. Mind you, I don’t think it’s on that list at all. So, truth be told, the little Jimny was remarkably comfortable and composed and even refined on the open road, where I could easily maintain 120km/h, and actually hear the radio, too. There was also the matter of the fuel consumption. After the Cruiser’s craving for
petrol, I thought the little Jimny was probably running on air! In fact, for a long time I was convinced the fuel gauge was out of order. It was that frugal. Eventually I decided to play it safe and fill up the tank. Clearly there was something wrong here. But there wasn’t. After nearly 400km the Suzuki had needed only 36 litres of fuel! Anyway, I made good time to the Maarten’s Drift border post, and crossed the Limpopo River and into Botswana without any problems. I arrived at Khama just as the sun was dipping behind the horizon. It had been a long but relaxing drive. The rest of the group eventually arrived in a convoy at 9pm. For them the day had been even longer. We had dinner in the restaurant, and it was still quite early when we crawled into bed. The real fun was due to start in the morning.
Another day. Another pan. Another recovery
At the crack of dawn we were up, getting ready for the drive to Kukonje Island on the pans. The plan was to leave early and have a brunch stop on the pans before heading on to Kukonje.
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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It was about 1pm. For me, it was like an old movie, playing over again. I had been stuck on a pan twice, and I knew we were in for a long haul. And then we were, well, stuck. Underneath the seemingly hard crust And so the process surface there is gooey stuff that is horribly, terribly and amazingly of rescuing the rig slippery and unpleasant. Some say it is mud, but mud is really began. too kind a word to describe this First, the official substance. Anyway, we started off recovery vehicle, a with a Pajero and Xplorer stuck – and Toyota Land Cruiser then the Cruiser 100 and 200 and the 100 turbodiesel with Amarok joined them! Thankfully, the a heavy duty winch, little Jimny was there to help winch moved onto the pan. the Amarok free. After this small Before long it was victory the other vehicles were slowly stuck, too. but surely dragged from the mud. Then a Land Cruiser 200 moved in, to try to save the 100. Before long, it was also stuck. Then we got a VW Amarok with a winch onto the pan, but unfortunately the Volksie ended up in some of the muddy trenches made by the two Cruisers – and it got stuck. Now there were four 4x4s and one caravan stuck in the pan! By this time the sun was beginning to set. We were all dirty and tired from digging, pushing and shoving. In a out of the mud hole. But the winch only calamitous situation, the group called upon dragged the much lighter Jimny across the the Suzuki Jimny’s services. It was soon mud. Then we tried to snatch the Cruiser clear that, thanks to its size, it would not only a metre or so, to slightly less slippery suffer the fate of the other vehicles. ground, before winching again. This only First we tried to use the Jimny as anchor served to rip off the Jimny’s rear tow hook, so that the Cruiser 100 could winch itself
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The convoy departed from Khama just after 9am, and we drove to Letlakane and a last fuel stop before we headed off the beaten track. In Letlakane, the locals tell us the pans are dry. We shouldn’t have any problem getting through to Kukonje Island. Good show! And so, with all the vehicles connected by two-way radio, we tackle the first proper dirt sections. “How is the stoflappie? Has the wind blown it over yet?” someone asks on the radio. What was that about? I wondered. “No, it’s still on all four wheels, in front of us,” says another voice. Then I get it, realising that the respondent was in the vehicle behind me. They were referring to the little Jimny! “Just wait until this stoflappie has to recover you from the pans,” I joked over the radio. Little did we know what lay ahead… Soon we were on the pans, and with tour leader Nico Brits in his Mitsubishi Pajero with an Xplorer in tow leading the way, we started towards Kukonje Island. When we stopped for that brunch on the pans, spirits were running high. On and on we went. Then came the call over the radio, from Nico. “Guys, the pan is quite soft up ahead. Give it gas, don’t lose momentum.” I was in the middle of the convoy, but the little Suzuki hardly felt hassled over this section. That’s the advantage of being lightweight. While the other rigs all weighed in at 3-4 tons, I only had to deal with one ton. Then, moments later, another call came from Nico. And this time, it was dire. “There is a very bad patch coming up, you need to… wait, I don’t think I’m going to make it… no, that’s it, I’m stuck,” he said over the radio. In the distance I could see the Pajero and Xplorer. Nico had followed a set of tracks across the pan, and with all that weight the hard but not so thick crust had given way and dropped the rig straight into the nastiest and most slippery mud-like substance you could imagine.
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and damage the bumper and tailgate. Finally, we used the Jimny as anchor point for the VW Amarok’s winch. This time the little Jimny stood its ground, and the Amarok dragged itself clear of the mud. Success! With the Amarok out, we could now use it to first get out the Cruiser 100, and later, in complete darkness, the Cruiser 200. But the Xplorer and Pajero were still very much stuck. That night we camped next to the pan – dirty, tired and hungry. Dinner that evening was spectacular, and so were the first six ice-cold beers.
It’ s a long drag
Puuuuuush! Puuuuush! Yes! We’ve moved the Cruiser exactly 1,3cm! This sums up our day in the pans, quite accurately! Below: After we ran out of daylight, we had to leave the stuck Xplorer and Pajero in their muddy graves while we camped next to the pan. Thankfully the group had their Xplorers and a few Oryx vans at hand, which made the camping experience a bit more comfortable! The next day, virtually 24 hours after getting stuck, the caravan and Mitsubishi were finally rescued from the pan. form A and then disappear into the offices. Then another official would pitch up and say there was a problem with form B, so we had to pay a fine of so-and-so many dollars. But first we had to wait for form A. “Meanwhile we were constantly being harassed by people trying to sell things, and others begging for money. It was a very uncomfortable situation.” Finally the convoy arrived at the Bushfront Lodge in Livingstone, and for the next three days the weary travellers could sit back and relax. A highlight was a sundowner cruise on the African Queen. After three tranquil days, the convoy headed to Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe for one night. Then it was back to Botswana and the Nata Lodge, and for the final night, Africa Ranches on the banks of the Limpopo. For the Campworld team it had been a right proper African adventure. “Overall, it was a very good experience,” says Campworld’s Pretorius, back in Gauteng. “Next time, though, I’ll definitely not use that ferry to cross into Zambia. There’s a 200km detour to a bridge. That sounds like a much better plan.”
And the Xplorers? How did they hold up? “No problems at all,” says Pretorius. “We towed them for 4000km, over very bad roads, through holes and dongas, and still we could sleep in five-star caravan comfort at our destinations. “For us the trip showed again why the Xplorer is the best-selling product in the premier off-road caravan market. Next time, though, we’ll stick to the outer edges of the Makgadikgadi pans. That mud was something else!” he laughs. And the brave little Suzuki Jimny? Well, it saved the Amarok from the pans by acting as an anchor. It needed less than 10 litres of petrol per 100km on the trip, and it was remarkably comfortable and refined for such a small 4x4. However, it also picked up R80 000 worth of damage in the process of recovering the other vehicles, which seems rather exorbitant. Still, I’m certain that moment when the Suzuki helped drag the Amarok clear of the mud will remain with us all for a long time. It was a small victory with the pans, but it was the catalyst that ensured that we eventually won the big battle. Hoo hah for that!
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I was due to leave early in the morning, back to SA, and arrive home in time for another assignment. With the caravan and Pajero still stuck on the pan, I said my farewells and headed off in the bruised Jimny. My journey back to SA went without incident, and the Suzuki felt just dandy. More than a week later, after the group had returned to SA, the rest of the story was told. After first acquiring the services of a local man in an old Ford F250, the group used wooden planks (under the wheels and jockey wheel) to slowly but surely winch the caravan out of the mud. By about 1pm that day the Pajero and Xplorer were both finally freed, and the convoy continued to Elephant Sands lodge. Although they never got to see Kukonje Island, tour leader Nico said that, if it had been that wet 20km from the island, the convoy would never have got there. So perhaps it was a blessing in disguise that the convoy got stuck where it did, reasonably close to a local village and a hardware store. In due course the Xplorer convoy continued to the Zambezi River and the ferry crossing into Zambia. However, this experience turned out to be another challenge – the convoy lost six hours at the border. “It was very frustrating,” says Campworld’s Nico Pretorius. “One official would ask for
MOTORING ADVENTURE
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Get into the world of General Tyre
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure.
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BUNGEE JUMPING OBSTACLE RACES
Mud,
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sweat and tears Obstacle racing is sweeping the globe. And now – in the form of the Warrior races – it has arrived in South Africa. Should you give it a try, or are these races nothing more than a clever bit of marketing aimed at making money out of adventure junkies’ masochistic tendencies? Text: GG van Rooyen
There are several things that you can be certain of if you enter an obstacle race. For instance, you are sure to be cold and wet for most of the day. Your clothes will be soaked through and your shoes and socks will be caked in mud. It is also guaranteed that you will be dirty and exhausted by the end of it. After all, you will not only be expected to run around 20km on the day – often over muddy and uneven terrain – but you will also have to contend with 30 obstacles. And these will not be “fun” obstacles. They will be tough, and some of them will be downright painful. To make matters worse, there is a disturbingly high possibility that you’ll be bruised and bloodied by the end of it
(some competitors have even died). And to top it all, you will be expected to pay quite handsomely for the “pleasure” of exposing yourself to this abuse. Sound like fun? Well, surprisingly, a lot of people are answering “yes” to that question. Obstacle races are big business. Tough Mudder, a US company that started the craze, has morphed from an unknown entity into a $70 million company in two years. In 2010, when obstacle races started gaining widespread popularity, 41 000 Americans lined up to give it a try. In 2012, 1,5 million people entered obstacle races in the US. Inevitably, the phenomenon has now gone global. Tough Mudder events are
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wire. The worst of the lot involves running through a muddy field littered with hanging wires that send 10 000-volt shocks through your body. And these wires are everywhere, meaning that there is no way to miss them. Once you’re in the obstacle,
you will be shocked continually until you get through on the other side. So if obstacle races are so harrowing, why have they become so popular? Well, to be honest, they aren’t necessarily as difficult as they are made out to be. Yes,
WHAT IS AN OBSTACLE RACE? Simply put, an obstacle race is a trail run combined with several military-style obstacles. Most obstacle races are around 20km long, and have 30 obstacles scattered throughout them. Some of the obstacles are very tough. Those found in the Tough Mudder events, for example, are based on British SAS (Special Air Services) obstacles, so they really test competitors. One obstacle forces you to wade through an icy pool. Another has you crawling under barbed
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Above and left: Obstacle races can be tough, especially if you enter a Tough Mudder event. Ice baths and electrified obstacles are regular features! Below: An obstacle race doesn’t consist only of obstacles – you will have a fair bit of running. Distances can vary from 6km to 20km.
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now being held in Canada, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand. Tough Mudder will apparently also be coming to SA in 2014, but there’s no need to wait until then. While the company has become synonymous with obstacle racing, it is by no means the only one in the game. Other events, such as the Spartan Race and Warrior Dash, are growing in popularity. So if you feel like giving it a try, there’s a good chance that an obstacle race will be taking place close to you in the near future. Visit www.warrior.co.za to find out.
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OBSTACLE RACES
Above: Hitting the wall. Competitors help one another as they attempt to scale a massive obstacle. The camaraderie that these events foster is a big part of their attraction. Most obstacle races can be entered as individuals or teams. they can be gruelling, especially if you are battling it out for a podium position, but they can also be a lot of fun. Firstly, you are not obliged to tackle every obstacle. You obviously can’t get an official finish if you skip some of the obstacles, but most people enter the races simply for the experience, and not to battle their way to the front. Secondly, you don’t need to run every step of the 20km course. Again, you obviously need to run if you want to be one of the top finishers, but you are free to walk if you feel your lungs or legs giving out. Another reason for the event’s popularity is the camaraderie it fosters. You can enter an obstacle race as an individual, but it is a lot more fun to enter
as a member of a team. Warrior Race, for instance, encourages companies, sports clubs, schools and military institutions to enter as teams.
SHOULD YOU TRY IT?
Yes, you should definitely give it a try. Warrior Race’s “Black Ops” category consists of 20km and 30 obstacles. However, it also has a “rookie” category that is perfect for newcomers. The rookie category of any Warrior Race event consists of an 8km run and 15 obstacles – ideal for a first outing in the world of obstacle racing. So, get some mates together and enter as a team. It promises to be an experience that will fuel fireside chats for a long time to come!
Above: Shoes discarded after an obstacle race. Below: Races are fun, but they can be gruelling, so be warned!
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HOW TO ENTER
As mentioned, Tough Mudder will be coming to SA in 2014. You can already pre-register for events in Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban, though no details about these events are available yet. But Warrior Race is firmly established in SA, and regularly hosts obstacle races throughout the country. To view a calendar of events, visit www.warrior. co.za. You can register online. If you enter as an individual, you will pay R380 for the 20km, 30-obstacle “Black Ops” race, and R270 for the 8km, 15-obstacle “rookie” race. If you enter as a member of a team, it is slightly cheaper. You will pay around R250 for the “rookie” race, and R350 for the “Black Ops” race.
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Get ready to run. Yes, there will be a number of obstacles to contend with, but you will still be running large sections of the course, so do some training before the event. Approach it as you would a 10km trail run. Get your strength up. Unlike a normal running event, an obstacle race requires upper-body strength to deal with obstacles, so don’t focus solely on running when preparing. Also, don’t think that a few curls in a comfortable gym will prepare you for an obstacle race. The best way to train is to mimic the obstacles you will face. Get used to being cold. You will be wet and cold during an obstacle race, so it’s a good idea to give yourself a taste of things to come before the event. Get ready for fun. You should enjoy the event, and not be too hard on yourself. If you get tired, walk. If an obstacle seems too intimidating, bypass it. Approach the event with a positive attitude, and make sure that having fun with friends and family is the priority.
WHAT YOU NEED
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You should approach an obstacle race as you would any long-distance run, so it is a good idea to take some energy gels along that can help reinvigorate you mid-race. Wear the right clothes, otherwise you’ll be making things a lot harder than they need to be. Don’t wear cotton, since it gets heavy when wet and takes ages to dry. Wear a light shirt and shorts made from modern, quick-drying materials. If possible, opt for a pair of shorts that don’t have pockets, since these will fill with water when you wade through the muck! Be prepared for the fact that your shoes will take a serious beating. Accept that you will probably have to chuck them away once you’re done. For this reason, it is probably wise to use an older pair on the day. However, don’t wear old, ravaged shoes that are uncomfortable and offer no support – you still need to be able to run in them! And opt for a pair that has good grip. Trail running shoes are the best type. Bring a towel, biodegradable soap and a change of clothes. You don’t want to drive home covered in mud. Most events have showers were you can clean up afterwards.
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THINGS TO REMEMBER
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EXTREME EXPERIENCES BUNGEE JUMPING
Go big
or go home!
Southern Africa offers loads of unique and memorable experiences. Anyone with a sense of adventure should make the most of these opportunities. Here are three awesome adventures that definitely belong on your bucket list.
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Text: GG van Rooyen
The snows of Kilimanjaro shrouded in mist.
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TOUCH THE SKY
Of course, climbing Kilimanjaro would be on the list. Kingsley Holgate’s expedition team has done it. Johan Badenhorst and his Voetspore team have done it. No citizen of the African continent can call himself an adventurer until he has climbed the famous mountain. Kilimanjaro is not only the highest peak on the continent but the highest freestanding mountain in the world. This is why climbers flock to Kili.
Many serious climbers have an obsession with scaling the highest mountains on all seven continents, and they often start with Kilimanjaro because it is considered to be one of the easiest climbs. But is conquering Kili that easy? In a sense, yes. It is certainly easier to climb than many other peaks. The slope is fairly gentle, which means that you can hike all the way to the top. Most other famous mountains require technical climbing ability. Because getting to the summit of Kilimanjaro isn’t a technical feat, it is also possible for amateurs to take on the challenge. You don’t need climbing experience to achieve it. That said, you shouldn’t assume that this would be a walk in the park. Ever heard of altitude sickness? This is a real factor on Kilimanjaro, and has caused many climbers
to turn back, bitterly disappointed. As you ascend, the altitude and subsequent lack of oxygen will drain you of energy and turn every step into an arduous effort. You’ll have to earn the right to stand at the top. Still, as long as you know exactly what you are letting yourself in for, kit yourself out properly and do a bit of preparation, you’ll have a decent chance of making it. Just be sure to use a professional company that has the experience necessary to safely assist you with the climb. Visit www.teamkilimanjaro.com
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Southern Africa is truly a Mecca for adrenaline junkies. Bungee jumping at Bloukrans, shark diving at Gansbaai, rafting on the Orange River, rock climbing at Waterval Boven, hiking in the Drakensberg mountains – the list goes on and on. Whatever your personal interests, you are sure to find an activity that will grab your attention. But southern Africa doesn’t only offer the typical adventure activities that can be enjoyed all over the world. It also boasts some amazing experiences that you won’t easily find anywhere else. Here are three that you should try before you die!
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Above: Climbing Kilimanajro is tough, but it isn’t a technical climb. In fact, you can hike all the way to the top, which means you don’t need technical climbing experience.
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EXTREME EXPERIENCES
Above and right: Traversing the Namib Desert’s massive dunes is a wonderful and exciting experience. And charging down its steep faces is a lot of fun. Just make sure you have an experienced guide who can ensure that you don’t get hurt.
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RIDE THE SAND SEAS
If you’re a fan of off-road driving – and if you’re reading this magazine, you probably are – you have to experience the thrill of dune driving in the Namib Desert. It is, quite simply, the most fun you can have behind the steering wheel of a 4x4. Why are off-road fans so enamoured with dune driving? Because it is an adrenaline rush! Some of the Namib’s dunes are very high, and scaling them requires real courage. Imagine the following: Your vehicle is perched atop a high dune in the Namib Desert. You are surrounded by a sea of sand. Behind you, in the distance, is the Atlantic Ocean. In front of you is the tallest dune you have ever seen. You know you will require a lot of speed to get to the top. You slowly nudge your 4x4 over the crest of the dune you are currently sitting on, and begin your descent. As your vehicle slips and slides down the face of the dune, you press down on the accelerator. Your chunky tyres grip into the sand, and your vehicle accelerates. Faster and faster it goes. By the time you reach the valley between
the two dunes, you are travelling at more than 100 km/h. Every fibre of your being is urging you to slow down, but you know that you’ll need a lot of speed to get to the top of the next dune. You’re really flying now! Your 4x4 starts to climb the dune. At first, you’ve got a lot of speed, but gravity and deep sand quickly slow you down. Your momentum is failing. The top of the dune suddenly seems very far away. You’re pretty sure that your vehicle is going to get bogged down, but you nevertheless keep working the accelerator. The vehicle is at a crawl now. Just as it seems about to sink into the sand, you crest the dune. You’ve made it! You slip over the other side, and prepare to attack the next one. This one looks ever bigger. You’ll need a lot of speed… That is why 4x4 fans love dune driving. It is like riding a roller coaster. Turn to page 88 to find out about our Leisure Wheels 4x4 Safaris. If the above sounds like fun, our Lüderitz to Walvis Bay trip is for you.
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DIVE INTO THE DEEP
What does paradise look like? Most people conjure up images of palm trees, white sands, clear seas and warm weather. Well, that is what Mozambique looks like – about as close to an island paradise as one could hope to find. And it is right on our doorstep! If you’re interested in scuba diving, Mozambique might just be your ideal holiday destination. Not only does it offer lush scenery, great weather and exquisite beaches – it also boasts world-class diving
opportunities in warm water! Firstly, the water off Mozambique’s coastline is warm and clear, even during the winter months. It also has a large number of reefs (depths vary between 10m and 40m) that attract great numbers of fish and other sea life. In fact, Mozambique’s waters have more than 6000 species of fish. You can expect to spot barracudas, manta rays, moray eels, sharks, huge schools of kingfish, giant lobsters and even whale sharks. You can
also spot dolphins. Some companies even organise dolphin experiences that allow guests to swim with them. Even if you’re not interested in scuba diving, Mozambique is still worth visiting, if only to relax on its beautiful beaches. Snorkelling is also a great alternative to scuba diving – it is a lot less technical and doesn’t require training. So visit Mozambique and hit the waves! www.simplyscuba.co.za; www.thedolphincentre.com
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The country offers world-class diving. The weather is great, the water is warm and clear, and sea life is plentiful. But a word of caution: check on the political situation before you go.
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If you have an interest in scuba diving or snorkelling, a trip to Mozambique is a must.
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BUNGEE JUMPING
Jump for joy!
Is there any better way to get a swift adrenaline fix than to go bungee jumping? It is the quickest and easiest way to get the juices flowing. You don’t need training, you don’t need to be fit, and you don’t need to purchase expensive gear. All you have to do is waddle to the edge, and take the plunge. Text: GG van Rooyen
If you’re a fan of bungee jumping, southern Africa is a great place to be. How so? Well, the region has some of the most unusual jumps in the world. If you’re looking for the highest, the weirdest and the most beautiful bungee jumps, this is where you will find them. Here are three southern African bungee jumps you can try.
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The Bloukrans bungee
The Bloukrans Bungee is the world’s highest commercial bungee bridge (it was recognised as the highest in 2003). It is also the highest commercial natural bungee jump in the world. It has been around since 1990, and has a 100% safety record. A number of world records are associated with Bloukrans. In 2008, Veronica Dean performed 19 bungee jumps in one hour, and Bill Boshoff performed 101 jumps in a 24-hour period. Bill’s record was
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subsequently surpassed, but in 2011 Scott Huntley broke the world record at Bloukrans with 107 jumps in 24 hours. The Bloukrans Bungee is high. Very, very high. It is situated on (or rather, under) the Bloukrans Bridge on the Garden Route, which is 216m above the Bloukrans River. As you can imagine, stepping out into thin air at that height is intimidating, but it is also terrifically exciting if you can overcome your fear. Bloukrans is a jump you have to do – if only to say that you have jumped off the world’s highest commercial bungee bridge. WHERE: Travel on the N2 from Cape Town. Roughly 40km east of Plettenberg Bay, you will go through the Tsitsikamma tollgate. The Bloukrans bridge is about 3km past the tollgate, and 500m past the bridge there’s a
sign stating, “Tsitsikamma Khoisan Village/ Bungy Jumping”. Turn left at the sign. If you are travelling from Port Elizabeth, the bridge is 20km west of the Storms River Bridge. PRICE: R750 per jump. You can book your jump in advance at www.faceadrenalin.com. Remember that you need to be there an hour before your booked time. WHEN: The Bloukrans Bungee is open 365 days a year. It operates during all weather, except when there are gale-force winds. OTHER ACTIVITIES: If jumping 216m is a bit extreme for your tastes, you can pay R100 and walk with the jumpers to the section of the bridge where the bungee jump takes place. Getting to the jumping platform requires walking on a tiny walkway, which is quite an adventure in itself! CONTACT: www.faceadrenalin.com; or phone 071 248-5959/073 124-1373.
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Right and below: 5,4,3,2,1 – bungee! Nothing quite beats the thrill of jumping off a bridge that towers 216m above the river below. What an adrenaline rush! Below: Once you’ve jumped, you are fetched by one of the bungee operators and pulled up with the help of a cable.
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Face Adrenalin, which operates the Bloukrans Bungee, is a very professional company. The facility has been open since 1990 and has a 100% safety record.
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The Orlando Power Station in Soweto, originally built in 1942, seems an unlikely place where people go for a major thrill. But they do, and for good reason. The power station was decommissioned in 1998 after being in operation for 56 years (double its planned lifespan). The colourfully painted pair of towers had become a landmark in Soweto, and a group of adventure addicts realised they could serve as a perfect base for an urban bungee jump. Plans were set in motion to create the world’s first bungee jump between two cooling towers. Eventually, permission was obtained, and a suspension bridge was constructed between the towers. It is from this platform that the 100m bungee is launched. If you live in Pretoria or Johannesburg, and always thought you had to travel far into the countryside for that bungee jump, think again. Orlando Towers Bungee Jump is right on your doorstep. All 100 metres of it!
The Orlando Towers Bungee near Soweto allows you to jump from a bridge spanning two cooling towers. The height is around 100m.
WHERE: From Johannesburg, take the M1 South, until the road forks. Take the right fork towards Bloemfontein/Soweto (past Gold Reef City). Follow N1 towards Bloemfontein, until you see Soweto and the Orlando Towers. Keep left, taking the M68 Soweto/ Southgate/Old Potch Road off-ramp. Turn right into Old Potch Road, and travel for 3km. At the towers, just after the Shell garage on the left, turn right into Dynamo Road. Enter at the security boom. (S26˚ 15’ 12” S, E27˚ 55’ 30”) PRICE: R480 per jump. You can book online at www.orlandotowers.co.za; or phone 071 674-4343. WHEN: Orlando Towers is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 10h00 until sunset. Special group bookings can be arranged at other times. OTHER ACTIVITIES: Orlando Towers also has a power swing, abseil and SCAD freefall. CONTACT: phone 071 674-4343 or www.orlandotowers.co.za.
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The Victoria Falls Bridge is arguably one of the most famous bridges in the world. Situated above the Victoria Falls’ Second Gorge, it was supposed to be part of Cecil Rhodes’ great Cape to Cairo railway, though that project turned out to be a tad optimistic.
The bridge was opened in 1905, and today is a popular tourist attraction, with guided tours that explore the history of the bridge. A tour of the bridge includes a walk under the main deck. For the more adventurous, however, there is an option to bungee jump off the bridge. A 111m
WHERE: The Victoria Falls Bungee is located on the Victoria Falls Bridge, between the Zambian and Zimbabwean border posts. You won’t need to pay any border crossing fees to go onto the bridge, but you will need your passport. PRICE: US$130 (about R1300) per jump. WHEN: Open seven days a week, from 09h00-17h00. OTHER ACTIVITIES: Victoria Falls Bungee also has a bridge swing (R1300), and a bridge slide (R350). CONTACT: www.victoriafallsbungee.com; or phone +260 213-324231. WORLD’S HIGHEST ABSEIL Is bungee jumping just a little too extreme for you? Then why not tackle the world’s highest abseil instead? Semonkong Lodge in Lesotho is home to the longest commercially operated single-drop abseil in the world. Set on the edge of the spectacular Maletsunyane Falls, this abseil descends 204m non-stop to the bottom of the gorge. www.placeofsmoke.co.ls; or phone +266 2700-6037.
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VICTORIA FALLS BUNGEE
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Above: One of the most spectacular bungee jump locations in the world is at the Victoria Falls. Visitors jump from a platform underneath the famous Victoria Falls Bridge.
jump was opened in 1994, and offers a fantastic leap into the gorge below. Few bungee locations are as scenic!
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BUNGEE TRAIL RUNNING JUMPING
Into the
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Forget the Comrades, and forget the Two Oceans Marathon. These events have become too big, too commercial and, well, too boring. Where, after all, is the challenge in running on smooth tarmac? It’s time you headed for the hills! Here are three trail running events that will truly test your endurance, stamina and surefootedness Text: GG van Rooyen
Trail running is becoming increasingly popular in SA. After all, running on a picturesque trail is a lot more rewarding than dodging traffic. Not only is the scenery better and the vibe more tranquil, but running on a trail is more involving, since you have to concentrate on every step. Unlike a piece of smooth tarmac, a trail offers loads of potential obstacles – loose stones, thick mud, boulders, near-vertical climbs – all of these need to be negotiated. As the popularity of trail running has grown in SA, events have popped up to challenge those who feel that they have mastered the art of running on dirt. So you think the Comrades’ 87km is harrowing? How about running 100km along Lesotho’s mountainous border, much of that at night, with nothing more than a headlamp to show the way? Now that’s a challenge!
THE SALOMON SKYRUN
Possibly the best known South African mountain running event is the annual Salomon Skyrun. Taking place in November each year, the race starts near the town of Lady Grey, winds its way along the Lesotho border, and eventually ends near Rhodes. The total distance is about 100km. Participants hit the trail at 04h00 and are immediately faced with a tough climb – about 800m of ascending trail over 7km. Also, the initial stages of the course are remote, with hardly any manmade structures in sight. Most runners manage to complete about 60km on the first day, and opt to spend the night at Balloch Cave. Those who are in it to win it, however, push on through the night, relying on nothing more than a simple headlamp to show them the way over the treacherous terrain. The lead runners normally manage to
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Above: The Otter Run, held every year, is a trail running event along the famous Otter Hiking Trail on the Garden Route. While hikers typically take four to five days to complete the 42,5km trail, expert runners complete it in less than five hours! It goes without saying that the scenery along the trail is stunning. Below: As anyone who has ever hiked the Otter Trail will know, there are a couple of water crossings to contend with. Runners have to get through these as quickly as possible.
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WHEN: Every November (takes place on 16-17 November this year). Entries close on 1 October. WHERE: Starts near Lady Grey, follows the Lesotho border, and ends near Rhodes. DISTANCE: 100km. This year, organisers have included a 65km option, called Skyrun Lite. ENTRANCE REQUIREMENTS: None for the 65km challenge, but entrants for the full race must have completed an established local trail running event. A list of qualifying events can be found on the entry form – online at www.skyrun.co.za. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Hydration pack, hat, sunscreen, whistle, compass, GPS, space blanket, cellphone, headlamp, first-aid kit. www.skyrun.co.za.
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complete the Salomon Skyrun in about 15 hours, so it truly is a massive test of endurance. If you’re only just getting into trail running, it might be a bit premature to tackle an event such as the Skyrun, but it is nevertheless a worthy goal to set your sights on in the long term. It epitomises everything that is great about trail running. It forces you to navigate tough terrain over a long period, pushing you to the limit of your abilities. Few activities are as character building.
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TRAIL RUNNING challenge, there is the Tuffer PUFfeR – an event that starts the day before the PUFfeR, and traverses the route twice, making the total distance 160km. At the moment, you’ll struggle to find a bigger trail running challenge than the Tuffer PUFfeR. The PUFfeR prides itself on being an event for hardcore runners who compete for the sheer joy of it. This isn’t a commercial race with big prizes and lots of media coverage. It is an intimate event with a relatively small field.
Striking scenery along the Otter Trail. Competitors in the Otter Run, however, don’t have much time to appreciate it. They have to complete the event in less than eight hours.
THE PENINSULA ULTRA FUN RUN (PUFfeR)
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Never before has the term “fun run” been so grossly misused! Make no mistake, the Peninsula Ultra Fun Run – known as the PUFfeR – is not a “fun run” by any stretch of the imagination. It is a difficult 80km run over tough terrain. And to make matters worse, the trail is completely unmarked. If you haven’t familiarised yourself with the course before the race, you are virtually certain to
get lost. In fact, if you are new to the event, organisers suggest that you stick with more experienced runners. Like the Salomon Skyrun, some sections of the PUFfeR are so steep and treacherous that the event becomes more of a climb than a run. The route starts at Cape Point, goes through the Table Mountain National Park and ends at the V&A Waterfront. For those looking for an even harsher
WHEN: Held annually. This year the event will take place on 24 August. WHERE: Starts at Cape Point and ends at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. DISTANCE: 80km for PUFfeR. 160km for Tuffer PUFfeR. ENTRANCE REQUIREMENTS: Just getting into the PUFfeR is a challenge, since spots are very limited. Applications for this year’s event closed in March. Oh, and in order to qualify, you must have completed an ultra marathon within the last year. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Compass, map, foul-weather gear and emergency rations. www.puffer.fishhoekac.com
Amazingly, the record for the run along this narrow, steep and uneven trail is a mere 4hr 23min 24sec. This was accomplished by Iain Don Wauchope, who won the event when it was run from the Nature’s Valley end in 2012.
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The Otter Trail needs no introduction. It is undoubtedly the country’s best-known hiking trail. The trail follows the spectacular Eastern Cape coastline from Storms River Mouth to Nature’s Valley in the Tsitsikamma National Park. It covers 42,5km and under normal circumstances takes about five days to complete.
But did you know that this famous trail also plays host to an annual race in which competitors regularly complete the undulating course in less than five hours? Started in 2009, the Otter African Trail Run has quickly become one of SA’s premier trail running events. In 2011, the race was won by South African trail running phenomenon Ryan Sandes in a time of 4:40:15. In 2012, Iain Don Wauchope won in 4:23:24. These times aren’t really comparable, however, since the 2012 event was the first ever “reverse” run, starting at Nature’s Valley and ending at Storms River. As anyone familiar with the Otter Trail will confirm, the race takes place on tough terrain. Not only is the trail treacherous in places, but there is also a lot of water to contend with. In order to get your hands on an Otter Run medal, you have to complete the race in less than eight hours. Luckily, there is an alternative for those who will never be able to break the eight-hour barrier. The Otter Challenge is a slightly less demanding event, allowing competitors 11 hours to complete the course. Still not an easy task, though!
Ryan Sandes, SA’s most famous trail runner, won the Otter Run in 2011 in a time of 4:40:15.
WHEN: Both the Otter Run and Otter Challenge are held annually. This year the Otter Run will
TAKE IT EASY! THE SALOMON FEATHERBED TRAIL RUN Not quite ready for the extreme races mentioned above? How about giving the Salomon Featherbed Trail Run a try? The first event was held in 2008, and it has been a part of the annual Knysna Oyster Festival ever since. There are two trails to choose from: the 15km Coelacanth Route and the 11km Seahorse Route. Because of the event’s growing popularity, three starting times were offered during the 2013 event: a morning slot, afternoon slot and night slot. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, the night run is the one to opt for! For more information, keep an eye on the Knysna Oyster Festival website (www.oysterfestival.co.za); or visit www. magneticsouth.co.za.
take place on 22 September, and the Otter Challenge on 24 September. WHERE: On the famous Otter Trail. DISTANCE: 42,5km ENTRANCE REQUIREMENTS: Because of its popularity, getting into the Otter Run is difficult. All slots for the 2013 event were filled within 11 minutes of bookings opening. All places for the Otter Challenge were filled within 56 minutes. If you want to get into the 2014 event, you need to act quickly. Keep an eye on the event’s website for information: www.theotter.co.za. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Hydration pack, emergency blanket, windbreaker, whistle, cellphone, emergency rations, thermal layer, waterproof jacket and dry bag. theotter.co.za.
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THE OTTER AFRICAN TRAIL RUN
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A competitor contends with one of the Otter Trail’s water crossings. Sometimes, completing the trail involves more of swimming than running!
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WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES
Call of
the wild This is Africa, so no list of adventure activities would be complete without a mention of some of the stunning wildlife experiences that the continent offers. Here are three animal adventures that every wildlife enthusiast should enjoy.
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Text: GG van Rooyen Have you ever sat in a game-viewing vehicle populated largely by foreign tourists? As a South African, it is something worth experiencing. The fact is, we are so used to seeing magnificent animals such as lions, rhinos, giraffes, elephants and buffaloes in the wild, that we sometimes don’t truly appreciate our good fortune. For foreign visitors, seeing a rhino or elephant up close in its natural environment is something special. Once you see how awestruck they are, you have a new appreciation for something we have had the privilege of experiencing for most of our lives. That said, the continent offers wildlife opportunities that many South Africans have not experienced. Here are some of them:
THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH
The great wildebeest migration is one of the most astonishing spectacles in the animal kingdom. The migration in east Africa involves a total of about two million animals, mostly wildebeest but including zebra and various antelope. It is the largest congregation of land animals in the world and takes place in the centre of a vibrant ecosystem that supports about 3000 lions and 7000 hyenas. In essence, the migration is a cyclical movement of herbivores across the Serengeti National Park and the Maasai Mara National Reserve. At the start of each year, the herds can be found on the short-grass plains of the
Serengeti where they will spend about three months grazing and giving birth (about 400 000 wildebeest are born here during a three-week period each year). The plains are located to the west of the volcanic system that forms the ridge of the Great Rift Valley. Over centuries, the volcanoes have repeatedly covered the plains with ash, which fertilised the ground and allowed grass to flourish, but prevented trees from growing. By late April or early May, the herds start their northward trek in search of greener pastures. In June, they arrive at the Grumeti River, which slows their migration north and causes massive groups to form. In July and August, the herds split. Some travel through the Grumeti and Ikorongo reserves, while others move through the heart of the Serengeti National Park. By September the herds can be found on the northern plains of the Serengeti. Here they face their biggest obstacle, the croc-infested Mara River. About 3000 wildebeest die during the river crossing each year, though that number is sometimes substantially higher. In 2007, for instance, more than 5000 animals were killed by raging waters, either drowning from injuries or being taken by crocodiles. Shortly after reaching the northern bank of the Mara, the herds start their return journey towards the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti. In fact, it is not uncommon to see herds re-cross the river within days of their arrival. Throughout October and November the
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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL
That said, they are still wild animals, and being able to see them in their natural environment is a privilege. Yes, it is an expensive undertaking – you could pay R5000 just for the tracking permit in Uganda and R7500 in Rwanda – but it is a rare experience to see the gorillas. Few wildlife adventures can compare with it. www.safariwildz.com
Gorilla tracking adventures in countries such as Rwanda and Uganda allow you to get incredibly close to these majestic animals. You are supposed to stay at least 7m away from them, but the animals tend to ignore this rule! They'll often walk right up to you.
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Gorilla tracking has become big business in Rwanda and Uganda, with tourists regularly flying in to see these majestic animals. Places such as Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park have developed quite a tourist trade, and made it fairly easy for visitors to see the gorillas. Guides and trackers keep close tabs on the animals. The trackers always have a general idea of where the gorillas are, and early each morning they set out to find the spot where they have made their ground nests the previous night. From there, they start tracking the gorillas. Once the trackers find them, they radio the guides, who lead the tourists to the spot. Gorilla tracking is an unpredictable activity. Although visitors are virtually guaranteed to see the animals, there is no telling what the circumstances might be. You might encounter them almost as soon as you start hiking, or you could walk for nine hours before you spot them. Before the trek, guides normally tell you to stay at least 7m away from the animals, but while visitors might keep their distance, the gorillas often disregard the rules. There is always a chance that an inquisitive young gorilla might come up and touch you. There are wild gorillas in the forests of central Africa that have had little contact with humans, but the animals that tourists usually encounter act as though they are the envoys of the gorilla kingdom. They are quite used to humans, which is a good thing, since it prevents these encounters from ending in tears and bloodshed.
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Throughout October and November the herds continue to move south through the Ngorongoro district and the Lobo region of the Serengeti. By the end of December the majority of wildebeest population is back on the short-grass plains. And the whole process starts anew... Want to experience the wildebeest migration? Check out our Leisure Wheels 4x4 Safaris on page 88.
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WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES
UNDER THE SEA
Did you know that SA boasts a facility that allows you to walk on the “ocean floor”? Very few places in the world offer this sort of experience, but uShaka Marine World in KwaZulu-Natal is one of them. So how does this wacky adventure work? You wear a swimsuit or wetsuit (which uShaka can provide) and a spaceman-like helmet is placed over your head. You are then lowered 3m down into a special tank, filled with fish and other marine life. Connected to the helmet is an “umbilical cord”, which feeds oxygen to you inside your bubble. Attached to the helmet are weights that keep you from floating back to the surface. This means that even people who have very limited swimming skills can enjoy the experience, and pretend to be a mermaid (or merman) for a while! Once on the “ocean floor”, you and your friends can walk around with your guide, and marvel at the different kinds of marine life on view. Because only half of your body gets wet, you feel oddly disoriented when going down. It’s an even stranger feeling to be able to walk on the bottom without having to continually swim down, and without mouth pieces or artificial breathing equipment. This adventure gives you a completely new perspective of the underwater world. You get to see the flora and fauna without a large glass aquarium panel separating you from it all. Even if you are an avid scuba diver, uShaka’s Ocean Walker experience is something completely different. www.ushakamarineworld.co.za
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Want to experience the underwater world without strapping on a scuba tank? uShaka's Ocean Walker allows you to stroll on the ocean floor with the help of a helmet that weighs you down and supplies oxygen.
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Get into the world of General Tyre
An off-road feeling in a new dimension... Introducing the Grabber AT from Continental Tyre. The latest generation of 4x4 tyre will take you into a world of fun, comfort and safety. The Grabber AT provides strong grip and excellent handling, both in off- and on-road conditions. Its robust construction provides protection against damage to the tread pattern and sidewall area. The technology used in the Grabber AT ensures comfortable handling combined with high mileage potential. The compound and the tread pattern were developed with a focus on maximum safety for both off- and on-road driving. Compared with its predecessor, the braking performance on wet roads and noise reduction have been improved. This makes the Grabber AT an excellent all-terrain tyre for use on and off the road. For more information contact your nearest tyre dealer.
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BUNGEE JUMPING OVERLAND DESTINATIONS
The sounds of silence Not everyone gets their thrills by jumping off bridges or rafting on white water. Some prefer to venture into the great unknown – to visit those tranquil and haunting places that are hidden from the modern world. Here are three superb overland destinations that are far from the madding crowd. Text: GG van Rooyen Nevertheless, there are some places where wild animals roam free and the world’s dramatic geological past can be seen – places where human beings can feel small and insignificant. Of course, some people (especially
KAOKOLAND
Namibia’s Kaokoland is a harsh and unforgiving place, but it also offers great beauty. It’s not scenic in the traditional sense, but this arid environment has its own unique attractions. High sand dunes, rock-strewn plains, steep slopes and surprisingly grassy valleys merge to create a mesmerising landscape. Indeed, travelling through Kaokoland is a supremely peaceful, almost spiritual, experience. No other area in southern Africa is quite like it. You will also find an unexpected variety of fauna and flora. The region wasn’t always this dry, but it has been in this state for a very long time. The climate probably changed when the supercontinent, West Gondwana, started to split up about 130 million years ago and this region reached its current position along the Tropic of Capricorn. This long period of stability has subsequently allowed plants and animals to adapt and thrive.
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Even in Africa, few places can be described as truly “wild and untouched”. The continent might still be relatively undeveloped in certain places, but the hand of man can be seen just about everywhere.
readers of 4x4 magazines) love venturing there, since the wilds offer a tranquillity that is difficult to find in everyday life. Here are three spots for those who like their overland destinations peaceful and remote.
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The desert can be a spiritual place.
ple of the Kaokoland.
Like Namibia’s Kaokoland, SA’s Richtersveld is an arid place that doesn’t conform to traditional definitions of “natural beauty”. But like Kaokoland, it is a haunting place with its own peculiar kind of beauty. The Richtersveld is essentially a mountainous desert region – large craggy mountains interspersed with sandy plains that take on a greenish hue when the rains arrive. It is named after Dr E Richter, who scouted the area in 1830, and remains just about as unspoilt as the day the great doctor set foot in it. Today, however, it is home to the Richtersveld National Park, in the northwestern corner of the Cape. It is here that some of the most beautiful parts of the region are protected from human interference. Interestingly, the land is actually owned by the local community and leased by South African National Parks. The park is also part of the greater Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, which covers more than 6000 square kilometres of conservation land on both sides of the SA/Namibia border. Lying just south of the park is the Richtersveld Community Conservancy, which extends over another 160 000ha. If you enjoy 4x4 trips into remote regions where you will need to be almost entirely self sufficient, the Richtersveld is a must.
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THE RICHTERSVELD
The Himba – indigenous peo
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Kaokoland is not only home to typical desert species such as reptiles, scorpions and spiders, but to large mammals such as black rhino, zebra, kudu and giraffe. The most famous wildlife inhabitants, however, are the desert elephants. They have managed to adapt incredibly well to the arid climate. The biggest secret of their success is an ability to find water. They know the locations of water sources and travel quickly and efficiently between them, often over great distances. The elephants can leave one source of water and travel directly to another that is 70km away. To survive, desert elephants also eat just about anything. They feed on grass, leaves, bark, roots, shoots, fruit, bulbs and flowers. They are also willing to eat plants such as ink bush that other species won’t touch, and can travel more than 30km a day to find food.
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OVERLAND DESTINATIONS
The stark yet beautiful landscape of the Richtersveld.
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MANA POOLS
Tourists and overland travellers are slowly finding their way back to Zimbabwe. Yes, going there still has its challenges. The Beit Bridge border post remains a nightmare, and you’ll still have to contend with plenty of annoying road blocks, but overall, things are looking up. Food supplies and fuel are certainly much easier to get hold of these days. So isn’t it time you ventured back into one of southern Africa’s most stunning countries? If you do decide to give Zimbabwe a go, you should definitely include a visit to Mana Pools on your trip. The park boasts plenty of wildlife and is one of the wildest and most remote national parks in southern Africa. This is especially true if you decide to visit one of the park’s two wild campsites. These are situated in the southern part of the park, and can be reached from the Nyakasikana Gate. Both sites are entirely without facilities, and can only be reached in a 4x4, so you need a pukka off-roader and must take all your own supplies. That should be music to the ears of many hardcore overlanders! What else does Mana Pools offer? Well,
you should arrange a guided canoe trip on the Zambezi, as it is one of the best ways to experience the park. You can also opt for a guided self-drive trip through some remote regions that lie to
the south-east of the park. These trips are organised by a passionate local, Dick Pitman, who has special camping arrangements with the hunting concessionaires in the region. www.zim4x4.co.zw to find out more.
An inquisitive elephant at Mana Pools.
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Tried and tested in Africa during the 2013 4x4 African Adventure. www.continental.co.za